Power Mac g3 blue/white internet issue

I am running system 10.3.9 and all was well last night. This morning can't get on internet on the g3, my pc works fine. Am direct cabled to router and when the original auto connect with dhcp was set it would generate it's own IP address and router subnet and not work. I switched to manual dhcp and gave it the IP address from the router log. The router than assigned it the subnet and router gateway and it tells me it is connected and online. I can see the ethernet light on the dsl modem blinking as it searches for the internet but browser comes up unable to find internet.I know the netgear router sees it as I am able to print to the network printer. I called macconnection to see if it was a network card I needed to swap out and they couldn't even find a parts list to tell me if it was a seperate card. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Shortly after posting this Verizon sent us an automated call informing us the internet had been repaired at 6:15 Monday night. My wife went off line at 5:30 and it was working fine. A phone call to them this morning and they threw a switch and now both computers are working. Odd the PC had no problems but the older Mac did.

Similar Messages

Power Mac g3 Blue & white no video feed

i have a g3 blue and white 350mhz, and it has no video feed it powers up and the hard disk spins up but no video feed

That 17" NEC e700 display is a late-90s CRT type with a 4:3 aspect ratio. The Apple/ATI Rage 128 in a B&W G3 can handle all of its supported resolutions. When you wrote that you had tried booting from the OS installer disk as was suggested, what bootable disk did you use? A model-specific disk from another Mac won't necessarily boot the B&W G3. Do you hear the startup tone when the computer powers ON? If so, did you try zapping the PRAM? Immediately after powering ON the computer, simultaneously press/hold down these (4) keys: Command + Option + P + R. Continue holding them down until you hear the startup tone a third time. Release the keys and see if the computer starts up normally with a display signal. Have you tried the NEC display with another computer, to verify that it works properly? If it has a detachable VGA cable, have you tried another cable? I don't know how you acquired the computer or what (if any) claims were made as to its functionality. Sometimes, computers are retired from fleet use when the time and expertise needed for troubleshooting a problem aren't available. Perhaps this B&W G3 had a bad graphics card? I bought a "condition unknown" B&W G3 (Rev. 1) once that wouldn't display a video signal when powered ON. The 9 GB Ultra SCSI hard drive was making such a high-pitched whine and was hotter than normal. I removed and disassembled the drive, and found that the read/write heads were completely worn off the ends of the arms, which badly scratched the platters. The point I'm making is that many of those computers are high-mileage units and are more likely to have a hardware problem.

I still have the problem with my Power Mac G3 Blue/white. Turning the power on i can hear it go thru POST but nothing every shows up on the monitor screen. Also when booting pressing the "C" or the Shift key nothing happens.

I don't get anything on the monitor screen. During startup i can hear it going thru POST but never any screen image. Any ideas?

The "C" key will work if there is a bootable volume on a disk in the optical drive. Are you running OSX? Jaguar, Panther, Tiger? On OSX (UNIX) you can use the command "S" (⌘-S) at start up to go to the root and do a file system check: Type; fsck -f -y at the prompt when it appears then press Return; let the root check for problems and repair. To exit after the test type; reboot and press Return

Mac G3 Blue & White won,t boot anymore

Hi everyone
I havea a big problem and I hope someone can help me out.
I have a G3 Blue & White with
PCU:300 Mgz
Rams:896 MB
HDD:130 GB
I had Tiger installed on it and worked perfectly,but classic would not boot up because it would say that Mac OS 9.1 was not installed.
So I decided to copy the system folder from my OS 9.1 intall disk to my hard drive(big mistake).
Then I went on Preferences, Startup disk, and it showed the icons of Mac OS X Tiger and Classic 9.1.So I decided to put Classic as startup disk(bigger mistake)because now,my Mac won't boot.It keeps saying
"The system software on the startup disk only functions on the original media,not if copied on another disk.
Now even if I try to boot with my install disk,OS 9.1 or Panther or Tiger,it just won,t boot from the disk.There is that little window with ? in it.
Now I have a Mac that won't boot.
Please,can anyone help me out
Thank you
Mario

Mario:
I don't mind reformating my HDD and do a clean installation but I cannot boot no matter what i do.
This may be a problem, as you will need to be able to boot from both the OS 9 install disk and the Tiger install disk. If you are not able to boot it may be that you are having an issue with the optical drive. In any case, I will post some directions and we will see if you can manage to get it going. First we will do a complete low level format with the OS 9 installer, install and update OS 9 and then when that is working satisfactorily we will install and update Tiger. All of this, of course, is dependent on whether you can boot from the optical drive.
Format and Install OS 9
This process will completely erase everything on your Hard Disk Drive. Be sure to Backup your User Folder and all third party apps you can't afford to lose
• Boot from your OS 9 install CD holding down C key.
• Go to Drive Setup and reformat your drive as Mac OS Extended (HFS+)
• Reinstall OS 9
• Update to 9.2.2: Mac OS 9: Available Updates
• Update your firmware
Once this is completed, you are ready to install Tiger.
Installation Process
• With computer shut down insert install disk in optical drive.
• Hit Power button and immediately after chime hold down the "C" key.
• Select language
• Open Installer and begin installation.
• Select installation option as Archive and Install. *This is important as you do not want to overwrite OS 9, which you just installed.*
• Choose to Customize and deselect Foreign Language Translations and Additional Printer drivers.
Optional: Check box to install X11 (Tiger and later) BSD Subsystems (Panther & earlier).
• Proceed with installation.
• After installation computer will restart for setup.
• After setup, reboot computer.
• Go to Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility.
• Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in left side bar.
• Select First Aid in main panel.
• Click Repair Disk Permissions.
• Connect to Internet.
• Download and install Mac OS X 10.4.11 Combo update (PPC) (Tiger).
• Repair Disk Permissions as previously.
• Go to Apple Menu > Software Update.
• Install all updates.
Computer may restart after updates.
• Go to Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility.
• Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in left side bar.
• Select First Aid in main panel.
• Click Repair Disk Permissions.
cornelius

Can I upgrade my Power Mac G3 (Blue and White) to USB 2.0?

I have a B&W G3 (300 Mhz) and a slot loading iMac ((600Mhz) both running 10.3.9. My daughter is looking into buying an iPod Nano which requires USB 2.0 How do I know whether either machine is USB 2.0 compatible ? If not can a USB 2.0 card be installed ?
thanks

Currently you only have USB 1.1. To get USB 2.0, you need to install a USB 2.0 PCI card. However, not all USB PCI cards work in a Mac. Best bet is any card with a NEC PD72101 chipset (xlr8yourmac results recommend the same).Read this for more feedback:
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/firewire/fwusb_card_deepsleep.html
All of these Cards are NEC chipset based
Adaptec 3100LP
BAFO BF-460
Belkin F5U220
GWC UC-160
IOGear GIC250U
Keyspan U2PCI-5
O'toLink U2-C2B
O'toLink U2-C2A
O'toLink U2-P20N
O'toLink U2-P50
Ratoc PCIU5
USBWholesale UII-PCIP
 Cheers, Tom

Mac mini (Mid 2010) Internet issues

Hi everyone!
I recently replaced three older Mac minis with new Mac mini (Mid 2010) computers. The new computers all work well, but they each exhibit the same problem wherein Java and Flash content on certain sites will fail to run properly.
The problem occurs right out of the box and with any browser I try to use, i.e. Safari, Firefox, Chrome, etc. In every case, I'm able to load Java and Flash web content without any difficulties on other Apple computers, including the older Mac minis I replaced.
Each of the new Mac minis came preinstalled with Mac OS 10.6, and installing the requisite system and Flash updates didn't resolve the problem.
What is it about these computers that's causing them all to load and run these web sites so poorly? I purchased them separately and from different vendors over the course of a few months, so it's almost impossible that they all have the same defect.
Any advice on how to correct this problem would be greatly appreciated. A few of the sites wherein I've encountered this problem are as follows:
1. Cogeco speedtest: speedtest.cogeco.net
2. www.speedtest.net
3. the Skype download page
Thanks in advance!
Pietro

Platactico, a couple of things come to mind when I read your post. First question is about the length of the HDMI cable in use. Is is more than 2 meters long? Once a cable gets past 2 m, and certainly by 5 m, the quality of the cable can play a role, and you see cases where one device can drive that length, like your PS3, but another device cannot. So if the cable is longer than 2 m, consider its quality and try a better one, or a shorter one.
Another point I would like to make about something that is different between a PS3 and a Mac, there is embedded in both a DVI and HDMI cable something called the Display Data Channel (DDC). The data moving across this channel is critical to a Mac in its operation with a display. With other types of consumer electronics devices, it is not used in the same way, or not used at all. So just because your HDMI cable is proven to pass video data using a PS3, there could still be problems with the cable relative to the DDC. So that's another reason to be trying a different HDMI cable.

Having trouble installing 10.3 on a Blue & White Mac G3

Help! Having lots of trouble trying to reinstall 10.3 on a Power Mac G3 Blue & White. It loads the first CD and then it does not reboot. When I pull the plug to shut it off (because it won't shut off any other way), I get the prohibitory sign. This machine meets the 10.3 reqs. I have run disk utilities from the OS disk and even Norton Disk Doctor and Optimised the drive.
I can't find anything from the apple docs that helps. I've tried a few things, but I can't get 10.3 to load, and I tried to load in 9.0 and it does the sme thing. I get the Prohibitory sign when I reboot.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
TB

TBigdrum:
I have run Norton Utilities from the disk. I used Norton Utilities to erase the drive. I did use OS X to erase the drive as well. Both drives in fact. Norton was not and is not installed on either of the HDs.
Even if you run Norton from disk, it can wreak havoc with directories in Mac OS X. You need to format the HDD with Disk Utility. That will remove all trace of Norton and, so long as you don't put that disk back in there, you should be ok after that.
Formatting, Partitioning Erasing a Hard Disk Drive
Warning! This procedure will destroy all data on your Hard Disk Drive. Be sure you have an up-to-date, tested backup of at least your Users folder and any third party applications you do not want to re-install before attempting this procedure.
Boot from the install CD holding down the "C" key.
Select language
Go to the Utilities menu (Tiger) Installer menu (Panther & earlier) and launch Disk Utility.
Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in left side bar.
Select Partition tab in main panel. (You are about to create a single partition volume.)
Select number of partition in pull-down menu above Volume diagram.
(Note 1: One partition is normally preferable for an internal HDD.)
Type in name in Name field (usually Macintosh HD)
Select Volume Format as Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
Click Partition button at bottom of panel.
Select Erase tab
Select the sub-volume (indented) under Manufacturer ID (usually Macintosh HD).
Check to be sure your Volume Name and Volume Format are correct.
Click Erase button
Quit Disk Utility.
Open installer and begin installation process.
Please do post back with further questions or comments.
Cheers
cornelius

Apple power mac g3 upgrade

I have a power mac g3 blue and white and I was wondering if I can upgrade the ram more than 1gb and upgrade the hard drive to more than 128gb. Basically upgrade the whole unit. Thanks

consider using an external FW drive, it will be about as fast as a your current internal drive, then you can use it to copy files to another computer later. The only size restriction you have to worry about is that for booting OS9 you must use a partition less than 200GB, if your external FW drive is larger, then you can partition it. This is not an issue for booting OS X.
http://eshop.macsales.com/search/FW400
Not sure the "value" of the G3 is worth the "investment" of any "upgrades" in the current vintage-used-computer market, although it can be a fun hobby if you are so inclined.
the older (discontinued?) ATA133 PCI cards would work
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=PCI+ATA133+Mac+ACARD+6280M&_sacat=0&_odkw=PC I+ATA133+Mac&_osacat=0&_armrs=1
with the older legacy (parallel) PATA drives
http://eshop.macsales.com/search/3.5+Internal+IDE/ATA
otherwise, for more $, you could go for a current technology PCI SATA card and SATA drive, you won't see the full speed benefit of this technology with the G3's motherboard speed.

Airport, ethernet, Blue-white

Hello,
I have 3 mac in my home and one airport wireless network. the airport extreme base station is plugged on a router (D-Lynk), and my PowerMac G5 with Tiger is plugged on my router via an ethernet cable. I have an old mac G3 Blue-White (with Panther) in another room and I want to integrate it in the network: so I buy a wireless bridge (Linksys) and I plugged it via an ethernet cable on my White-Blue.
So I think that the bridge is on my network (the wireless light is green on it....), but I can not have internet on my White-Blue.
How can I configure the bridge and the White-Blue to be on the network?
Thanks for your help...
Joubex

You need to configure your wireless bridge device - did you read and follow the instructions in its user manual?
For a MacOS-oriented description for the configuration of a WET11 (the WET54G is somewhat similar) see:
Jonathan Takagi, "Yet another Linksys WET 11 plea for help!", 10:20pm Oct 4, 2005 CDT

Power Mac Desktop G3 Blue & White - Bad Battery?

Hello all - I just found you G3 guys here
I have this older G3 Blue & White 350 mhz loaded with OS 9.1, and I haven't powered it up for a number of years. When I went to power it up, the network clock was naturally out of wack. Got an error which said:
Network Time in error set for 1956. I reset the time and date several times, and although it works briefly, it won't keep accurate time. Is this indicative of a battery replacement? The battery is small and cylindrical - shaped like a camera battery - Not Flat.
Yes? And if so, is it any big deal to replace? Do I need to reset anything?
And another problem is that the power button periodically gets stuck. Sometimes it retracts, and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes the machine is starting to boot, when it just cuts off. If I wait a while, it can eventually start and boot up completely but usually gives the bad time error message again. Is this a separate issue? Or could it be related to a bad battery, and bad time and date?
Thank you
Mike

ENIGMACODE,
Yes, the minature - 1/2 AA height - battery is the one to replace. Radio Shack sells them for $15 or you can shop on line and find some for half that.
If you have a power strip and all components are plugged in, when you turn off the power strip, you turn off the only source of power to keep you clock going. You can shut down the computer but not turn off the power strip and the clock will continue to work fine. My B&W has gone more than a year on a dead battery.
If you startup, set the clock, then hit restart, the correct time should be retained in memory because the power is not interupted. If it loses the time during that reset or restart, you have other issues.
The sticking power button is most likely misaligned plastic. Double check to make sure that it is not sticking. Then use the keyboard to turn on and off the computer. That will isolate the switch to see if the problems are related or not.
Jim

Hi, I bouhgt a used Apple Power Mac G5, I want to buy a blue tooth card for the same to use wireless keyboard and mouse, i am just curious that why do i need to provide the serial number of my computer, is there any compatibilty issue?

Hi, I am new in Apple Computer, I bought a used Power Mac G5. I want to buy a blue tooth card for the same to use wireless keyboard and mouse. so why it is mandatory to provide the serial number of the machine?

Hello, Serial# not needed...
At the Apple Icon at top left>About this Mac.
Then click on More Info>Hardware and report this upto *but not including the Serial#*...
Hardware Overview:
Machine Name: Power Mac G5 Quad
Machine Model: PowerMac11,2
CPU Type: PowerPC G5 (1.1)
Number Of CPUs: 4
CPU Speed: 2.5 GHz
L2 Cache (per CPU): 1 MB
Memory: 10 GB
Bus Speed: 1.25 GHz
Boot ROM Version: 5.2.7f1

Can I install a G3 Blue & White power supply unit in a G4 AGP?

I have a G3 and a G4. The G4s power supply unit (PSU) short circuited a while back and I got a G3 as a replacement. I've tried to find a replacement power supply unit for the G4 and have been using the G3 in its place. Sometimes they appear on ebay but I usually lose the auction. But the G3 has upgrade issues that involve spending money on it. It's a Blue and White 300 MHz Yosemite while the G4 is the Graphite AGP 400MHz Sawtooth. RAM isn't an issue, processing speed is, the G3 is harder to upgrade. Plus I can put up to 3 hard drives in the G4. 2 ATAs and a SCSI. the G3 only holds 1 ATA hard drive. With 2 SCSI bays.
Anyway I'm leaning towrds retiring the G3 and rebuilding the G4 starting with the PSU. And I've seen on auction sites that these units are compatible with both Macs, the Blue and White G3 and the AGP and PCI G4. It is essentially the same 240 watt unit made by Delta Electronics or ATX..
However as I spent part of the yesterday dismantleing and cleaning dust out the Sawtooth's innards, and removing the broken PSU, I also noticed on the G3 that the PSUs cables are slightly different. There is one cable that is connected to the start button. On the G4 this isn't the set up. The start button's cable is linked directly to the motherboard.
To get to the point. Is this cable arrangement a potential problem that I should avoid by not tinkering with it? Or can I ignore this and install the G3 PSU in my G4? I'm preceding with caution and will check back here later in the day.
Thanks.
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Thanks, Grant
Interesting opinion.. and funny too.
On close inpsection of the fron panel you're right the cable is a hard drive cable, and without a number. Whereas the connector for the DVD and Zip drive are numbered P7 and P6.
And in the G4 there is a slot for where this old connector went, but there's nothing to connect, no pins. It's as if this slot was evolutionary rump on its spine end where the tail ended, that the G4 designers left in or else they used left over parts from the G3 to save money.. This early G4, introduced in 1999-2000 is one evolutionary step above the G3 which was discontinued in early 1999. The G4 front panel has a slim grey ribbon cable leading under the chassis directly to the motherboard, along witha thin wire and small pin connector leading from the speaker.
There's nothing like a beakdown to learn how to rebuild your PowerMac. And I think most of the repairs are DIY doable. It just takes a few good screwdrivers, a little know how, some patience and a lot of spare time. All that and the correct replacement parts, if you can find them.
So I've finished installing the G3 PSU in the G4. It fits perfectly in and amazingly all the cables were long enough, including the cable to the ATA hard drive bay P2 and P3. Hard drive is connected, RAM installed, ready to go. All I have to do is plug the power cable into a power strip socket and hope for the familiar whirr and chime and breatha sigh of relief. If nothing happens then it prolly means the motherboard is kaputt. Or that it isn't compatible with the G4 architecture and it's back in the G3. I'll let the board know what's happened tomorrow. I'm off to Slumberland. ZZZZZzzzzz. rob
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Power Mac G4 (sawtooth) AGP - Firmware and other issues

Hello,
So I was given an older Power Mac G4 AGP which I've been using while my Power Book G4 gets a logic board replacement but I've been having some issues with the AGP unit. How do you check to see what version of the firmware you have? I read a firmware update but it requires OS 9 to launch and I don't know if I need this or not. The other issue has been when I tried to run Firefox after successfully installing it. Firefox doesn't launch, it just opens and then closes. When I use Safari, the browser will work for about a few minutes but then it will freeze and I need to force quit it. I am running 10.4.11 and I was thinking of installing 10.5.6 but I'm not sure if this is possible with the Sawtooth. Do I need to upgrade the processor? Any advice or help is appreciated.

Hi, veesh678 -
Early models of the G4 (AGP) models came with OS 8.6; later models came with an installer for a model-specific version of OS 9.0.4. The latter disk will have a blue-gray label, be named "Power Mac G4" with a subtitle "Software Install", and has a part number of 691-2657-A (the part number will be in fine print on the right-hand side of the label).
Non-current firmware will not preclude the machine from booting to that CD; a retail OS 9.0.4 Install CD (white label, gold 9, no model named) probably will not work, although a retail OS 9.1 or 9.2.1 Install CD should work fine.
The current firmware version for the G4 (AGP) model is v. 4.2.8, which can be downloaded from this article -
Article #120068 - G4 Firmware Update 4.2.8
Note that to install that version the machine must be booted to OS 9.1 or OS 9.2.x from its hard drive, and the firmware update must be run from the same hard drive.
Before installing firmware update v. 4.2.8, download and run DIMM First Aid (it's a free download) to verify the compliance of the RAM in the machine.

My brand new mac pro always had Internet connection issues at school. WHY is that? I see the school's Internet working perfectly fine on other PC's, but there is never a day where my mac doesn't have Internet connection issues at school. How do I fix it?

I got my mac pro in the middle of August. School started the week after. Internet was working perfectly fine at home. But at school, I never had a good connection. Sometimes on the good days I get a connection when I'm sitting at the exact spot in class I always sit at. It's ridiculous and it's frustrating. I invested my money into this laptop and I'm beginning to regret it. I thought it was the school's Internet, but I don't see Internet issues with other PC users. It's most frustrating on registration days and I'm trying to register for my classes before it gets taken, but again... Internet connection issues. It's random. Majority of the time, it doesn't work at all. I've done Network Diagnosis and turning WiFi off then turning it on again. I've done everything I could. I put my money on this laptop and it was a lot of money. I could have bought an 800 dollars laptop and I would have Internet connection anywhere on campus. So, I don't want to continue everyday to regret on buying this laptop every time I try to connect to the Internet at school or Starbucks or anywhere else. How do I fix this? What's the problem ?
At school, I heard this guy had a problem with Internet connections too and he owned a new mac book pro. He said something like Apple messed up on something, but he fixed it. If I knew mac book pro's had these issues I wouldn't have bought it in the first place. It's freezing on me every other day. It's ridiculous. But what concerns me the most is the Internet connection. So someone please tell me what can I do next to prevent the problem? Am I doing something wrong maybe?

Hi Kevin,
I'm using an XLR input mic which is connected to the phantom power enabled XLR mic socket on a USB M-Audio M-Track. The M-Track is connected by USB to the Mac Pro - so effectively I've got an M-Audio USB soundcard with a mic input. I've also tried a microphone that is a straight XLR to USB cable (guessing with some soundcard chip buried in the usb plug) but that also yields the same effect of bad latency, intermittent quality, stuttering and repeating and echoing (without the speakers on during record so its not feedback).
The mic works absolutely fine with other recording applications I have on the mac at the moment - albeit non-adobe ones (tested it on the EasyAudioRecorder - and it lives up to its name. it's easy)
I will try with Audition and report back, but sitting here right now I can imagine it would work fine with audition too - it just seems to be the way premiere is set up for recording into the timeline is a bit sketchy. I'm willing to accept it might well be a quirk with the new Mac Pro trashcan - I'm not weighting all the woes on premiere.
Any thoughts or am I out of luck to sit with my fingers crossed for a fix in the next round of updates?
Nathan.

17in CRT Studio Display (Blue & White)-blinking power button

I have an Apple 17in Studio Display (CRT-Blue and White vintage) connected to my Power Mac G5.
Last night, I went home, and turned it on..or rather tried to turn it on but found it stayed black, with the power button blinking green->amber->green->amber etc.
As far as the computer was concerned, the monitor was still there and working (dual monitors...the mac kept the b&w as if it was turned on).
I swapped the monitors to the different video ports and the other monitor worked fine, so it's not the video card or vga->digital adapters.
I unplugged the monitor and replugged it, and it stayed with the blinking light.
Restarting the computer with the monitor attached had the computer still running as if the monitor was working just fine, so it seems to be getting what ever kind of feedback the mac gets to let it know a video card is there.
Anyone have any idea what could be up?

Addition
http://www.whoopis.com/computer_repair/
is better for a start.

Power Mac g3 blue/white internet issue

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