Power supply board blown?

Yesterday my community had a five hour power failure which included a power surge strong enough to blow the electric meters off several houses and cause a few small fires. My losses included failure of two identical two year-old Toshiba 32" HDTVs, model 32C100U2 (and two ceiling fans).  Neither TV would start via the remote or the power button. Surprisingly, this TV does not have a consumer-replaceable fuse so I opened-up the back of each and easily determined the fuse had blown in each.  Unfortunately, replacing the fuses resulted in another pair of blown fuses. On one TV, I pulled the cables leading to the other boards and tried another fuse -- which immediately fried.
This leads me to believe the power supply board (PK101V1550I) is damaged.  There are no obvious blown components on either board. The caps look intact. I'm seeking second opinions on if replacing the boards is in order before I buy them.  Lots of places have the out-of-stock but I found several on eBay for about $50 each. Thanks....

I had it happen to a TV once. It was the smaller power transformer of the 2. 370XEE19004 is the model number, I think. Let me know if u find it. Thanks.

Similar Messages

  • DesignJet 1050C Delta power supply board failure (DPS-386AP)

    Our geek club was given a 1050C designjet plotter which we would like to repair to put in service.
    It appears that the standby/sense power (-15vdc) is leaving the psu board to the main board, and the power switch is grounding out to trigger the Delta power supply board to come on.
    However, there is no DC voltage from the Delta PSU board. All lines are dead.
    I tried bringing it up with the main cable disconnected from the motherboard, checking to see if something was loading down / shorting the power supply, but it still does not come up.
    I'm starting to go through the process of figuring out what failed, but was hoping that maybe there is a common problem that I can look for.
    Caps look like they are from reputable vendors, and none of them are swollen nor is electrolyte coming out of any of them.
    Anyone have any knowledge of failures on this board?

    This forum is focused on consumer level products.  For the Designjet you may have better results posting in the HP Designjet forum here.
    Bob Headrick,  HP Expert
    I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
    If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
    If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

  • Macbook pro will not turn to almost have changed the motherboard and the power supply board

    Hello,
    A customer brought me to repair his macbook pro A1151, the computer flashed, I had to change the power board and the motherboard and the computer still does not turn.
    The customer used a power supply with wire was déterrioré there were overheating the power supply board has traces of burns and a component of the motherboard is broken.
    What may be another problem that prevents your computer from turning on?
    Thank you.

    Run an Apple Hardware Test:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1509
    It may pick up some information that might give you a clue as to the unusual behavior.
    Note: An error free AHT is not always definitive.
    I still would go to an Apple store genius bar and have the MBP examined.  It will be done for FREE regardless of warranty status.
    Ciao.

  • How to check the power supply? iMac G3 233

    How to do it?
    Can i just take the case with the mainboard out and "short" the pins Power on (pin 8) with GND and check the voltages on the connector that comes out of the monitor case?
    I know that the pin 8 is the power from articles about imac>atx case conversion.And i know that you can power up a normal ATX power supply by shortening two pins, and want to know if i can do the same with iMAc power supply. I don't want to fry anything.

    Sounds like you have eliminated most of the possibilities, other than power supply board or motherboard. But it may also be the CPU daughter card that is faulty. I had one (233 MHz) that would run Mac OS 9 just fine, but it was unable to run Mac OS X reliably (crashes and freezes after a few minutes). I replaced it first with a 333 MHz G3 card off of eBay and later with a 467 MHz G4 card from the Fastmac booth at MacWorld San Francisco two years ago.
    If you are comfortable disassembling the iMac to the point of removing the power supply board, you can layout the PS board and the carrier assembly (the thing you pull out with the motherboard, CPU card, and drives) on a table top. Then connect the power supply board to the carrier assembly, and connect the external power cord plug to the power supply board, and connect a keyboard with a power button to the carrier.
    To measure the voltages, you can disconnect the 4-pin connector to the hard drive. If you turn it on using the power button on the keyboard, it will not start up with the hard drive not powered up (unless you use a bootable CD), but the system should be powered so that you can take your measurements.
    Hope that works. Be careful with the exposed back end of the CRT. Keep any curious cats out of the room while you do this...
    In case you don't have the PDF of the tray-loader iMac tech manual, it is downloadable here.
    http://www.baconeggs.co.uk/manuals/index.htm

  • I need to get a replacement power supply. Where would I go?

    Any ideas out there?

    I got a 12 volt and plug but nothing worked
    Did you first check the power supply with a voltage tester to make sure that you were getting 12 volts?
    If you did, then you know that the external power supply was working correctly.
    However....If the internal power supply board is shot on the AirPort Exteme, plugging a good power supply into the back of the Extreme will not fix it.

  • IMac 233 power supply issue

    My bondi iMac died several years ago and I've been trying to resurrect it. The AV board was replaced professionally some time back and everything was great until it abruptly would not start. I just replaced the power supply board but all I get is a persistent ticking sound. After mucking around a bit I discovered that if I unplugged the grey cable bundle (with one blue wire) from the power supply board at P908, which connects to the AV board at P505, the computer boots normally but without video. Can anyone identify this cable? Can it go bad? I've tried every suggestion from every forum but nothing else has any impact whatsoever, just tick tick tick....I know I could probably connect an external monitor but I don't have an old one or an adaptor. Besides, that solution lacks elegance. It's too pretty to stick in a beige box.
    I love this computer and hate to trash it, so thanks to anyone who can help!

    My guess is that it is not a problem with the cable. The problem may be that the power supply board is becoming faulty (weaker). Therefore, when it is not powering up the video subsystem (which probably draws at least half the overall power), the power supply is able to power the rest of the system.
    It is also possible that the PAV board has gone bad for the second time. That would explain why it does not work when it is connected. Quite possible. Even replacement parts are old, and even if was not previously used.
    Fortunately, it seems like you know how to take that iMac apart all the away, which is not easy (be careful with the high voltage in the backside of the CRT - it's there even when the iMac is disconnected). If the problem is the power supply board, they usually do not go bad, so it should be possible to find a good replacement on eBay or elsewhere. If the problem is the PAV board again, you know the deal...

  • G5 Power Supply Zapped. Design defect?

    Had my new Powermac G5 processor for 4 months and when I turned it on recently, I heard a very loud snap. Would not turn on after that. Did the internal power reset procedure found in the Apple support pages. No good. Took my processor to CompUSA for service. Power supply was blown. Apple tech at CompUSA said he has had 3 other G5 units in for the exact same problem! Wanted to post to alert others and find out if this is a problem others have run into.
    Michael

    I had the same thing happen to me back in October of 2004, actually. I bought the computer in July of 2004 and in October, nearly 4 months to the day, my dual 1.8 G5 died and it was the power supply. It took the San Francisco Apple store 19 days to repair it (they broke the case during the repair and had to order one from the Apple store in Chicago). The main gripe I had was how long it took them to diagnose the issue. They replaced a whole slew of other stuff first because the power supply tested ok. In the end, the summary statement of how much they spent was about $300 more than I paid for the machine. They could have just given me a new machine and made me a happier customer and come out financially better off than they did in the long run.
    And yes, it's a chronic problem. There's an entire section devoted to it at Macintouch: http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/powermacg5/topic4026.html

  • Obvious power issue effecting all back plane jks. Popping HOURLY (clocked) thru speakers, lites up lamp on doc scanner. Has blown power supply once. "Genius" diag NTF twice B4 power supply blew. Still have same trouble. I made very CLEAR to Genius Ba

    Obvious power issue effecting all back plane jks. Popping HOURLY (clocked) thru speakers, lites up lamp on doc scanner. Has blown power supply once. "Genius" diag NTF twice B4 power supply blew. Still have same trouble. I made very CLEAR to Genius Bar that it was a hardware issue after they continued to trouble shoot software. I was referred to tier 2 who told me they only worked on SOFTWARE. Does anyone know a more qualified shop who can fix an OBVIOUS mother board issue tracing back to the power supply? I had the same issue with a 20" with 7 visits & had to literally take a video of the trouble before they could figure out the trouble was the video card. From reading the sheer number of posts of the same trouble descriptions going back to 2007, it's all too obvious the path to MSFT is being taken.

  • Is a bad logic board due to a bad power supply?

    Computer specs:
    iMac G5 20", 2.0 ghz, 1 GB RAM, 250 GB hard drive
    Back in October of 2008 my iMac G5 Power PC shutdown intermittently and then when I went to go to start it back up, it booted to the blue screen and hanged there forever. So, I did a hard shutdown and then waited and then booted again and it still hanged at the blue screen. I tried booting in Safe Mode, and that worked, so I had a chance to backup everything that I needed to. Then, I took the computer to my local Apple Store to speak to a "genius". They could not diagnose my computer while I was there, so they needed to take it overnight and let me know over the phone what the issue was. The next day they called to tell me that it was a Logic Board issue and that it would cost $900 to fix it. I obviously was blown away at the cost for the problem, and I could not afford that charge so I seeked out other options. I found a shop in my neighborhood that offered me a used 1.8 ghz logic board for half of what Apple was quoting me, so I went with it. Then, 9 months later (which brings us to present) my iMac completely shutdown on its own and would not start up. I ran it through some tests (LED lights on the interior) and confirmed that it was a Logic Board issue again. So, I took it back to the shop in my neighborhood and they told me that the warranty for the part they replaced had expired. So, I called Apple Customer Relations to talk to them about the issue. They confirmed, using my serial number, that I could get my issues fixed for free. They then told me about the "iMac G5 Repair Extension Program for Power Supply Issues" which was news to me. This Program ended in December of 08, meaning I would have qualified in October of 08... the time I initially brought in my computer. So, I brought my computer to the Apple Store to drop it off for repairs, and when going over the history of the machine they confirmed that because there was a used 1.8 ghz part in my machine installed from a non-authorized Apple place that they COULD NOT fix my issues now.
    My question is:
    Back in October of 2008 when I brought in my computer to the Apple Store and they diagnosed it with a bad Logic Board, could that have been because of a bad power supply? If that was the case, does a bad power supply cause a Logic Board to go bad?

    Welcome to Apple Discussions.
    The short answer is no, but it's actually more complicated than that. The original iMac G5 17 and 20 inch models were plagued by two problems: defective capacitors which affected the logic board, and an unrelated set of defective capacitors which affected the power supply. Rarely were both conditions present at the same time, but Apple decided—when they issued the repair extension authorization—that replacement of both components was a more cost effective approach. By far, the most common of the two problems involved the logic boards.
    The REA covered machines for a period of three years from first sale, and ended in December of last year. Yours likely would not have been covered due to the date of sale provision. On a case by case basis, AppleCare representatives did allow coverage for machines beyond the three year limitation, but not past the end of last year.
    It's not likely that you have both a defective logic board and power supply, though you may. The combination of these issues is actually found most frequently in the iMac G5 ALS models, none of which were covered by a repair extension authorization.
    Your issue is a difficult one, as Apple authorized dealers and service providers have every right—and, actually, a responsibility under their annual agreements—to reject warranty, AppleCare or REA coverage for parts or labor when compatible but not similar logic boards have been placed in your machine. This is because they must exchange these parts for the part they are requesting from Apple on a like-for-like basis, and that part must be associated with your machine serial number. In trying to resolve your issue, the shop in your neighborhood actually created an additional issue for you which would only be triggered in the event of component failure. I have no idea what period of coverage they typically offer, but Apple provides for 90 days or the balance of any warranty or AppleCare extension in place at the time of the repair, whichever is greater.
    Your logic board can be refurbished for $ 189.00 if it in fact exhibits the capacitor issue. That process is covered by a one-year warranty. If you are interested in exploring that option, send a message to the electronic mail address in my Public Profile and I will reply with additional information. To help determine additional information concerning your machine, please include the machine serial number if you elect to do write for more information.

  • How do i remove blown power supply (g5 dual 2.7)?

    my powermac g5 (dual processor 2.7Ghz) has blown it's power supply and i'm struggling to remove it. I'm at the point where i need 'screwdriver' style allen keys to remove the water cooling system (I hope i'm right in thinking that once this is out i can somehow get the power supply out from the bottom of the case).
    with the machine lying down, looking down into the cooling system i can see 6 hex style screws (4 in corners, 2 in middle), 4 star style screws (2 at edges, 2 in the middle).
    which ones do i need to undo to lift the entire cooling system off? i don't want to risk damaging the cooling system by unscrewing everything i see.

    Thanks for the official procedure, that rivet defiinitly looks like it's meant to break as it is removed. I'll see if i can unhide my email address on my profile for this site and maybe you could email me the file?
    My machine didn't have much dust in it at all, and it never had any problems starting, suspending or resuming. It did sound like it was about to take off sometimes when i was loading the processor. I mainly do stuff in Logic and there is always moderate fan noise while i was operarting the program, and then when it came time to bounce the audio out and the processors were at 100% it made a **** of noise. Also got really hot, would heat the room on a cold day no problem. Overall though considering the heat the thing was producing i dont think the fan noise was excessive though. In fact overall i was really pleased with the machine, but after reading around on the internet it probably seems to be the worst piece of hardware that apple have ever designed.
    When i spoke to the company who i'm getting the refurbished psu from, they couldn't understand where the blue flashes could have come from. Initially i thought the light must have flashed out of the fans on the power supply but i've sinced realised the fans are on the front not the back - and the flashes definitly came from the back. They suggested maybe i had a dodgy power lead, so now im worried about the board and processors.

  • Power supply vs. logic board?  turns off in sleep mode.

    My imac g5 (2004 - 1st generation?) is either turning completely off or going into some un-wake-up-able mode after it's put to sleep. (I have to switch off/on the power strip and turn the computer on all over again.) And sometimes if it's sleeping (power light pulsing on front) it may or may not wake from sleep by pushing the power button. Often touching a key in that circumstance will cause it to crash, so I've quit using that altogether as a method of waking it up. I've reset the SMU a number of times throughout the past few months and it has not cleared up this problem.
    Last night after I put it to sleep it switched in to the un-wake-up-able mode. I could still hear something running (not a fan, just an electrical hum) where it seems like it's crashed and can't shut itself off. I had to turn off the power and try to turn the computer back on. It wouldn't respond the first couple times. Then the power light glowed for a while but it still didn't turn on completely. After a few more minutes I tried again. Maybe I held the power button for too long, but I heard a long single beep, the fans whirred, and then everything started up as usual.
    I've read a number of threads seemingly related to these issues, but am now not clear about whether this is a power supply issue or a logic board issue. I have yet to open the back and check for bulging capacitors. Just thought I'd ask here first.

    I am having a very close issue too (posted also in a more recent thread about power button not functioning). My old iMac G5 20 inches got a power supply that went bad two years ago. I had it replaced and all went fine until two weeks ago.
    My wife was using it, while I was away: machine shut down with a 'pop!' sound.
    She tried to start it up again, but after pressing the button a couple of times - the last one longer - she had a long strong peep. The machine went on for a while and then off again. Scared, she left it off.
    After checking, no reported issue seems to fit to the problems shown: power supply is working; logic board too. The machine is working fine, but on sleep, it dies out. While doing tasks, at undetermined times, it shuts down with a 'pop!'. Sometimes you can restart it immediately. Sometimes you can't and have to wait one or more hours. No evidently bad caps on board, led check returns 1 (no 2 flashing or attempting to turn on) with dead computer, otherwise all working fine. Hardware test also passed. Console messages have nothing relevant or clearly understandable to offer.
    Still can't figure out a solution. Many user are pretty fast in suggesting to bringing the machine to Apple. Unfortunately not all around the world we have/need cars. And getting the 20 kg of iMac by feet/metro to the shop it ain't such a nice walk. When I fried the power supply, there was no sufficiently large box on sale to pack the computer and have it send to the shop. I had to wait for the technician - on a convenient day - do drop by and take it (and he knew he was going to repair it)!
    Will post, if I have further developments.

  • IMac G5 won't start up - logic board or power supply?

    My oldest son killed my iMac G5. Apparently he'd taken to sneaking downstairs in the middle of the night and watching videos on YouTube. One night, during his viewing session, the iMac threw up a kernel panic and the fan came on. My son tried to turn off the iMac but couldn't find the switch. So *he went to bed and left the iMac with the fan on full-blast.* When I came downstairs to go to work, 6 hours later, I turned off the machine, waited for a minute or so, and then attempted to turn it on.
    The iMac is stone dead. Will not turn on.
    I'm deathly afraid the logic board is cooked. Those things are damned expensive. I held off on doing anything for a while, but then I was talking offhand with a Genius at a local Apple store. He said it might be as simple as a power supply. Which would be great - $125 is a lot cheaper than $800, and I could do this repair myself. But I don't want to sink $125 into the machine unless I have a pretty good idea that this will, in fact, fix it.
    Anyone else had this problem? Did it turn out to be the logic board, or the power supply, or something else entirely?

    First off, the kid is grounded - second, which model do you have? Have you tried resetting the SMU? Resetting the SMU can resolve some computer issues such as not starting up, not displaying video, sleep issues, fan noise issues, and so on. If your computer still exhibits these types of issues even after you've restarted the computer, try resetting the SMU. To reset the SMU on one of these iMacs:
    1. Turn off the computer by choosing Shut Down from the Apple menu, or by holding the power button until the computer turns off.
    2. Unplug all cables from the computer, including the power cord.
    3. Wait 10 seconds.
    4. Plug in the power cord while simultaneously pressing and holding the power button on the back of the computer.
    5. Let go of the power button.
    6. Press the power button once more to start up your iMac.
    Let us know if this helps,

  • Anyone else waiting on a replacement Power Supply & Logic Board from Apple?

    On Dec. 26, I took my iMac G5 to my local service provider to resolve some power issues under the Repair Extension Program. They ordered the part (new power supply and logic board) from Apple that very day, yet I'm still stuck here waiting 16 days later.
    Anyone else out there waiting for this part to arrive? How long should it take? Can I call Apple directly in order to get a better estimate?
    Thanks!
    1.8 GHz iMac G5   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  

    All right, so here's the latest plot changes in the ongoing saga of my iMac G5...
    I spoke with two very kind and helpful women at Apple this afternoon. Both agreed that this sort of behavior from my AASP was certainly unacceptable. I was able to lodge a formal complaint against my AASP, as well.
    My particular part order was given some sort of high priority status by Apple. I was asked to call back on Friday to receive an update on the order's status.
    I was also asked to send a letter to Apple's Corporate Customer Care division explaining my situation in full. I'll try to send out this letter within the next few days.
    So that's where we stand right now. No computer yet, but at least SOME progress is being made.

  • Power supply or logic board failure

    First time post, long time Mac user (since 1983). My older iMac G5 1.8 GHz Power PC (ALS) occasionally fails to start when I press the power button or the internal power button on the logic board. The only solution is to unplug/plug the external power cable where it meets the power supply housing (not at the outlet). None of the capacitors seem to be bulging on the logic board, LED1 always lights up, LED2-4 fail when there is a problem but are normal after unplug/plug routine. Noticed that there was no internal Lithium battery where one is supposed to be, but this has been the case for 5 years, so this is probably not the issue. I suspect the power supply. It's an old iMac with plenty of leg left and will be used as a second computer in the home. Any ideas? I don't have a volt meter, but am willing to get one if the test points are easy to get to (I'm not an electronics wizard).

    Welcome To Discussions - If resetting the SMU, which is in effect what you are doing, solves the problem and the caps look ok, then the prime suspect would be the power supply unit. They are not expensive, check out [synaptech.com] for prices or[welovemacs.com] whcih will also give you instructions on how to replace it.
    It would probably be a good idea to replace the battery it's CR2032 3 volt lithium button, easily obtainable at Radio Shack or similar places.
    Let us know how you make out,

  • Logic board and power supply symptoms on a Mid 2007 I Mac Intel

    does anyone know what would cause my Mid 2007 Imac to quit abruply? On tun on the super drive spins up for about 5 sec and then spins down. No display No Nothing!! It was working fine up to this point. Could it be the power supply or logic board?? What other componants are in there that would cause this problem.
    It is my daughter- in- law's Mac and they don't have alot of money to fix it so if I could fix it that would help.
    THX for Ur Time!!

    Unfortunately no one hear can truly diagnose the problem.
    1. Run the Apple Extended Hardware Test using the original Install DVD 1 that came with that iMac.
    Intel-based Macs: Using Apple Hardware Test
    2. Call your local Authorized Apple Service Provider and have them test it.
    How to find your nearest Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP) or Apple Authorized Distributor (AAD)

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