Power supply not strong anough on macpro quad

We are running 5 macpro quad 5gb ram, 3Hardisk and Protools HD3 PCIe cart, whem we put a 4th HD the problem starts; bad running, bad startup. on one of them we change twice the mother board on warranty(oups). Did anybody have the same kind of problems.
We suspect that the power supply is not strong anough.
Regards
Djoum

The reason it won't turn on is because pins 21 and 23 are not in the standard ATX PSU configuration. Your motherboard works with an HP configured ground on pin 21 and +12 VDC instead of the ATX (ATX12V v2.01)standard unused pin and +5VDC respectively.
Z400 PSU connector
Standard ATX PSU connector
I have not seen a non HP PSU available that would work without modification.
Not all HP's are built with propietary PSU connections most newer, non-business models use the standard ATX PSU configuration.
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2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

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See if your Mac model supports it:
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HP Z400 Workstation Power Supply not Supported

Good Day All,
I would like to seek help on the issue that i am currently facing.
Currently, I am using an HP Z400 Workstation and decided to switch to a bigger casing. I Bought a Full tower and casing and just realized that i am unable to move the power supply (425 Watts) as well due to the cables are too short to reach the CPU main Powers.
So I bought a separate Power Supply (Cooler Master M2 Silent Pro 850 Watts).The cables are perfectly enough to reach the CPU main power source. After putting everything the pc won’t turn on……
I thought my newly power supply was defective and got a replacement at the same day. I tried the new Power supply and simply does not want to turn on… this is getting frustrating as I am unable to figure out what is really causing the issue.
I also tried to just plugging the cables at the Main power and removed all the additional devices just to test but still no luck….
I started checking forums… there is only one post regarding about unable to change any other third party Power Supply for this HP Z400 Workstation. I guess it apply to all HP Branded as well as Dell.
Guys I need your help as I don’t want to make a mistake again on considering to build another machine just because this one was not working… Maybe there is one there that manages to bypass or have a resolution on how I can successfully upgrade my Power supply using the same HP Motherboard.
Here is my Current Specs..
Processor
Intel® Xeon® Quad-Core Processor W3565 (3.20 GHz, 8 MB cache, 1066 MHz memory)
Chipset Intel® X58 Express
Here is the link for the full details of the specs
http://www8.hp.com/sg/en/products/workstations/product-detail.html?oid=3718668
Here is the power supply I want to replace http://h20464.www2.hp.com/results.htm?SID=3718668&MEID=368CA2BE-30F2-40AE-8929-DBF4AF2ADC21
Will wait for your kind reply,
Thanks

The reason it won't turn on is because pins 21 and 23 are not in the standard ATX PSU configuration. Your motherboard works with an HP configured ground on pin 21 and +12 VDC instead of the ATX (ATX12V v2.01)standard unused pin and +5VDC respectively.
Z400 PSU connector
Standard ATX PSU connector
I have not seen a non HP PSU available that would work without modification.
Not all HP's are built with propietary PSU connections most newer, non-business models use the standard ATX PSU configuration.
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

PWB G4 Power Supply NOT AVALAIBLE in AppleStore?

Hi guys,
sorry but my G4 Powerbook 12" has taken some water (not in fact the notebook but the power supply) and it doesn't run anymore.
I'm looking for the original one on the online Apple Store (Italy) and I can't find it!!
I'm sure my notebook it's not in the list of "too old macs" 'cause it's the last version (1,5GhZ) before the switch to Intel.
Waiting for an answer,
thank you so much..
Ivan

Hello and welcome to the support community
The only power adapters being sold on the online Apple Store at the moment is the Mag safe which works with the MacBooks from 2006 upwards
I've not seen a PowerBook or iBook adapter on there for a while now. The actual store may sale you one. (Via order process) If you have access to a Apple Store near you.
You could contact the online Apple Store sales by phone and see if one could be ordered.
Failing that, you can get online vendors and auction sites like eBay who sale the original Apple power adapter for the PowerBook.
Bets of Luck

G5 Power supply not covered by warranty?

I have a G5 power mac with the exact power supply problem explained at this URL:
http://www.apple.com/uk/support/powermac/powersupply/repairextension/
Trouble is, it does not fall into the serial number range explained on that page. If this is indeed a manufacturing problem, how can I get it serviced under the policy listed on the above URL site? Is there any other recourse to have this problem resolved by Apple? Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Dan
Mac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.5)
Mac G4 Mac OS X (10.2.x)

Hi BobCat260;
Since this is a user to user forum, I doubt that you will get much help here. My suggestion is to call your local Apple store and ask them. I would start the process there. If you don't get a satisfactory answer there you can escalate to customer support for their help.
Allan

Battery not charging, power supply not reliable

For a week or so I've had trouble recharging the battery in my 12" iBook g4. I had to fiddle with the power supply connection so the computer would recognize that it was plugged in, and the power icon in the top menu bar would flip randomly between running on battery, charging, and plugged in. Often I couldn't fully charge the battery, but it discharged at a normal rate.
Tonight my iBook battery abruptly dropped to reading either 1% or 0%. I tried connecting my usual power supply, which didn't register at all. I tried another power supply and got a few seconds of operation before the computer went to sleep again. So long as it's plugged in it does the same thing whether the battery is in or out.
I'm not sure whether this is a battery problem or a more basic computer problem--the logic board? something else? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

AH, I've basically had the same problem and found a fix! It is most likely a DC-Inboard issue with your iBook as my iBook would boot from the AC Adapter and if it did it would last a mere 20 seconds. The DC-Inboards are old now and die, the part is $10 on eBay, if you want to know for sure its the DC-Inoard plug in the Ac-Adapter and if it turns green you're good (It may be a other issue), it turns a yellow-ish color (Not ORANGE) then it is the DC-Inboard, the orange color can be both good or bad. The yellow-ish color is due to the DC-Inboard not being positive if it charging or not, and when this happens you can "Jiggle" the power cord to get it to boot (However it must stay on a desk and not move!) and if you're lucky you'll have enough time to back up any info you may have (Just for safety incase the DC-Inboard doesnt do the job!)
Here is a link for the DC-Inboard replacement- http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iBook+G4+12-Inch+1.33+GHz+DC-In+Board+Replacement/69 9
Cheers, -JP

Variable power supply not working in virtual elvis

When i make a virtual elvis 3d schematic i cannot get any output from the variable power source, i have played with it alot and still no output. please help.

Thank you for your time to help me out,
I got it to work using the shift+P and shift+n hotkeys. A suggestion I have is to remove the shift restraint for the GUI interface P and N buttons that appear on the screen after you highlight variable power supply, as it is non-intuitive for a user to know you must hold shift then press GUI buttons as well. I suggest coding those visual buttons to alias SHIFT+P and SHIFT+N operations when you click on them for ease of user interface.

G5 Power Supply not working?

Hi, while using my G5 that other day, my screen froze. I powered off, then back up again. The screen came up but froze immediately.... Now when I turn it on the power button lights for a second then nothing. Dead. Any ideas? Could it be the power supply? Is this a costly thing to fix? My G5 is 4 years old. Worth looking into a new Pro Mac?
Thanks.
Beth

I realize this is an old thread, but just in case...
{quote:title=Beth Radisek1 wrote:}should I just bite the bullet and buy a new G5? Or sink that into my 4 year old G5? {quote}
Maybe neither? How about a used G4 for $200?
Buy 3 of them, and if one fails, just save any parts you can can, junk the rest, power up the next G4, and keep right on working.
You'll spend less on three G4's than one G5, and you'll get better reliability.
This is the road I'm taking, no more new Macs for me.

APC UPS (uninterruptible power supply) not restarting after power restored

I just bought an APC UPS 1500VA Smart-UPS (model SUA1500) to protect:
-- iMac 20" 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo with 2GB memory and 500GB internal disk
-- (2) external Seagate FreeAgent Pro 750GB USB drives
-- (1) external MacGurus Burly Firewire enclosure with (4) 1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 drives
-- DSL modem
-- Ethernet hub
-- Airport Express (b/g-model, not the new n model)
The UPS is connected to my Mac via USB cable. The UPS shows up in System Profiler as "Smart-UPS 1500 FW:601.3.D USB FW:8.1". It also appears in System Preference Energy Saver pane.
I have configured the Energy Saver preferences pane to shut down the computer when 75% of the UPS battery remains. And to restart after power failure (both on power adapter and on UPS).
So I cut the power to the UPS and the computer properly shuts down when the battery reaches 75%. A couple of minutes later, the UPS turns itself off. All good so far.
PROBLEM 1: When utility power is restored, the UPS does not restart. APC's documentation says it should. Is the Mac sending some sort of shut-down command to the UPS over the USB cable that is preventing the USB from restarting?
PROBLEM 2: After I manually start the UPS (by turning it on after utility power is restored), the Mac ignores its setting to "automatically restart after power failure." I want the machine to restart itself because it is my backup server, music server, and provides file sharing access for other computers on my home-office network.
Anyone else having trouble getting their UPS or Mac to restart after a power failure? Any thoughts? Any configuration settings I'm not getting right?
Many thanks.

The "Restart automatically after a power failure" option only restarts if the computer was running when power failed. Since you had it shutdown before the power failed, it's not going to restart. Maybe Mac servers, or the server version of OSX, have more options.
Instead of shutting down when the UPS battery is almost dead, you could just stop all the applications that write to disk, so there won't be any disk operations in progress, then wait for the power to fail. It will then restart when the power come back. You should have something running to monitor the UPS, in case power returns, and the UPS doesn't shut off its output. In that case you should have it restart your applications.

MagSafe power supply not charging any more + PowerPlug moving inside my MBP

Hello,
I've purchasd my MBP at the end on March.
For now about 3weeks, I've been experiencing problems with my mag safe connector :
It plugs in but does not charge
At the begginning, by changing its side it would charge, but now even that doesn't work.
I've noticed that the MagSafe plug (inside the computer) is mobile. It moves about 1 or 2 millimetters, inside...
I must add that I didn't play football or other harmfull activities with my MBP, and has been on my desk or in its box since I've purchased it, unharmed.
Is this a known problem? What would be an appropriate answer to this kind of problem?
Thank you.

MIne does the same, have to force it aside so it charges, and it got so hot, and one of the pins in both the adapter and the plug got burnt, i haven't had time to go to the mac store to get it fixed.

HP- power supply atx 400

Dear
Kindly, we have HP-Desktop the fan for power supply not work, power supply model is ATX MODEL P-400WATT, and
i bought new power supply with 500watt.
i don't know if will causes problems for computer or not bcz new power supply higher watt than old one?, need your technical support
There is no label on computer case to know his model, but by commands line bcz Linux OS i got following info, i hope this will help you:-
SMBIOS 2.7 present.
Handle 0x0001, DMI type 1, 27 bytes
System Information
Manufacturer:
Product Name:
Version:
Serial Number:
[edited Serial Number by Moderator]
Wake-up Type: Power Switch
SKU Number: To be filled by O.E.M.
Family: To be filled by O.E.M.
Handle 0x001F, DMI type 12, 5 bytes
System Configuration Options
Option 1: To Be Filled By O.E.M.
Handle 0x0021, DMI type 32, 20 bytes
System Boot Information
Status: No errors detected
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Faziz, welcome to the forum.
Since I don't know the model of the computer I can't review the specifications. However, if the power supply unit (PSU) fits into the computer, it will not cause any problems. The computer will only use the amount of wattage that is required to run it properly. The extra wattage will be used for peak power needs. So, it is alright to use the PSU in the computer.
Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
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Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

600 watt power supply questions and video card upgrade questions

I am looking to upgrade to a Xfx Radeon 7970 Double D graphics card but i was wondering if the HP 600w psu that came with my Hp Envy Phoenix H9-1350 has a 8 pin and 6 pin Pci-e connector because that is what the Radeon 7970 needs. Also I am wondering if it will fit into the Hp Envy Phoenix H9-1350 because the case seems small but the card is only 9.3" long. I currently have an Amd Radeon 7670 but I think it is time for an upgrade but I am just not sure if the power supply has the correct power connections needed for the Radeon 7970.
This is the card I am looking to get:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150665
This is the computer I have:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/HP+-+ENVY+Phoenix+Desktop+-+12GB+Memory+-+2TB+Hard+Drive/6890832.p?id=12...

I understand you want to know if the power supply will have the necessary connectors for the desired video card.
According to the specifications, it lists the case as a mini-tower which is on the small side. You may need to use a tape measure to find out exactly how much room the system has in regards to length. It has become much better, but other components (such as the HDD) were at the end of the PCIe slot limiting the length of a video card. Sorry I couldn't provide anything more specific. The manuals are somewhat vague as far as the internal dimensions and I don't have access to one to verify the dimensions.
Ordinarily, I can find more information regarding the power supply not that seems not to be the case here. According to this thread, the PSU has two 6 pin PCIe connectors. You would need something like this to convert one of the 6pin connectors to 8pin. As long as the PSU is capable of pushing enough watts, it shouldn't be an issue. The card needs up to a 500W power supply, so the 600W power supply should be just enough to cover it.
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The Power Supply Fan is still working, but does not appear to respond to increased loads, and its speed cannot be increased using SMCFanControl. Any suggestions?

Hi all - My mac pro 1,1 has an enigmatic problem. It's quad-core, 3Ghz, running OS X 10.7.5. The problem began some months back, when running HD video conferences, HD streaming videos and some other graphics-moderate (I won't say intense) uses, such as slide shows in Just Looking. My machine has an ATY, RadeonX1900 card and 2 monitors - both Apple displays, one being 30 inch 2560x1600, the other being 24 inch 1920x1200.
When I start those types of graphics-moderate apps, after about 5 minutes, something would crash (the monitors making a noise as it did) and the displays would both go black. The power did not appear to be fully cut off from the monitors. I think that the underlying applications, however, did not crash. So, I could still hear and speak to people during video conferences, and I could hear the sound tracks of videos.
Attempts to restart the computer and get the monitors back did not immediately work to undo the problem, if done straight away. The only way to correct the problem (so as to have the monitors work) was to wait for a few minutes and then restart.
After a lot of puzzled looking at console logs (and I confess that I am not an expert), I ran into a blank.
But, because of the timing of the crashes (after ~5minutes use) and restarts (after some minutes wait), I reasoned that the problem might be temperature related.
Once on that path of thought, I found this article:
http://worldtv.com/blog/guides_tutorials/fixing_an_overheating_mac_pro_no_expens e_required.php
I installed both Temperature Monitor and SMCFanControl. And I experimented, and got interesting results:
Now to the puzzling bit: SMCFanControl shows that the speed of the Power Supply Fan doesn't vary much, even if I use SMCFanControl to ramp fan speeds right up. All of the other fans react to SMCFanControl, going up to and above 2500rpm when commanded. But the Power Supply Fan does not. Having watched it for a few days now, the Power Supply Fan, according to AFCFanControl, never varies outside of a range from about 600-640 rpm, regardless of what I do with AFCFanControl.
Also (and not surprisingly), whenever the graphics-moderate apps run, when I ramp all the fan speeds up using SMCFanControl, Temperature Monitor shows that the all of the temperatures within the machine plummet, except in the power supply locations. Power Supply Location 2 is the worst affected. Because the Power Supply Fan does not react as the other fans do, the "crashes" still occur.
I could post some screen shots of the read outs of SMCFanControl and Temperature Monitor, although I think I have covered the key points in this post.
It seems that the Power Supply Fan is still working, but does not respond to increased loads.
Instinctively, I'm worried that if that's right, it might be a hard problem to fix. Any suggestions? Help! I would really appreciate them!
Cheers
P

Thanks for your response Grant. I had already read about, and I think excluded, dust in graphics card/fan/assembly as a cause. The entire inside of the computer, including the graphics card/fan/assembly, is as clean as a whistle. It looks clean. I've cleaned the dust out every now and then (including a few days ago). Also, my undersanding (derived from the article, linked in my first post) is that I might expect to see high temperatures in the Northbridge and memory module B if the graphics card was overheating. According to Temperature Monitor, however, locations do not increase in temperature when I run the relevant apps. Finally, the graphics card/assembly does not feel too hot to touch.
It is strange that SMCFanControl lists the Power Supply Fan as being software controllable, if that fan is not. Still, your comments are consistent with my observations, as the fan simply does not respond to software control.
There are two upsides: First, I've something of a work-around. I've worked out what temperature must be achieved in Power Supply Location 2 for a crash to occur, and I can watch that location in Temperature Monitor, terminating the process before that treshold is reached. Of course, that's not ideal. Second, ramping all the other fans up does significantly delay the onset of the problem, and makes recovery time much quicker.
Is there any donwside to peridically ramping up the other fans when running the relevant apps? Given that it causes all of the other locations to cool significantly, could this lessesn the life expecancy of the mahcine? (I don't want to run the fans up all the time - that's like sitting next to a jet ready for take off!)
Also, a correction to my first post: Yesterday, with all the other fans running on full and running an HD streaming video, the Power Supply Fan did, eventually, slowly, come up to ~740rpm, which is much higher than the ~640rpm maximum I had previously seen, and this may have aided delaying the onset of the problem.
I'm not sure where this leaves me? The problem might now be able managed. Well, sort-of. But it's not eliminated.

Quad Power supply goes pop

Note of warning to other owners of Quad G5's. The power supply troubles hit me today, and in the middle of a DVDSP build there was a loud POP and then total darkness - the power supply's gone, on the machines eleven month birthday. Word on the streets seems to think the logic boards put heavy demands on the PSU, and my machine isn't even in the Apple-approved range of serials. Time to get my Applecare extension in before the 12 months are up... In the meantime it's back to the shop for a warranty repair.
Just an FYI alert.

It's important to put your brain in gear before opening your mouth. It's time for yours truly to eat large chunks of humble pie.
In my rush to blame, I forgot about my UPS, which was what blew, and not the G5. Mea culpa. Thankfully I realised before sending it in.
I would be the first to jump down someone else's throat for jumping to conclusions, but in this case I spotted a conclusion from a distance and popped off a cheap shot at the gillies. I feel like Dick Cheney. My G5 is fine and I have to buy a new UPS, which is an ENTIRELY different problem.
Still, after reading all those reports, I'm buying Applecare. I wish I could buy Applecare for my feeble brain though. Sorry for casting aspersions on my Quad G5, which - let's be clear - is an EXCELLENT, RELIABLE SYSTEM, and I have seen NO PROBLEM with the power supply on mine.

Power supply not strong anough on macpro quad

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