Power Supply Unit for a PSC 1205?

Dear HP! Is it possible to buy a new or repaired power supply unit for my PSC 1205? Part no. Q1647-60019. Best regards Lars

It doesn't seem like this part is available in the HP Parts Store. I suggest you check one of THESE HP Part Partners in the US if they have this part.
PS: This forum is not an official way of contacting HP.
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Similar Messages

Is it possible to change Power Supply unit for Lenovo H420 PC ?

I have 2 questions really as i recently bought this budget system.....I was amazed to see that the PSU was only 280 watts for this systemwhich kind of limits what Graphics card I can upgrade to.
My questions are :
1) is it possible to upgrade the Power Supply unit for the H420 from the default 280 W to say to a 400 W one?
2) If I cannot upgrade the PSU, what is the best performing Graphics Card that I can use in this system? It was pre-installed with a NVIDEA GeForce GT 520, which isn't the best around.
My 6 yr old Dell Dimension 8400 system with Win XP, which i have discarded allowed me to insert NVIDEA GeForce GT 240 card, which i think is a slightly superior card to the above one. Needed a 300 W PSU

Hi RBec and welcome to the community,
Is this your thread over there? If not, it gives a few options concerning the PSU.
Dave
T430u, x301, x200T, x61T, x61, x32, x41T, x40, U160, ThinkPad Tablet 1838-22R, Z500 touch, Yoga Tab 2 Windows 8.1, Yoga Tablet 3 Pro
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Power supply unit for 1500+

hello,
i got another set is Athlon XP 1500+(palamino), the power supply is aopen brand, i think is 250 or 300 watt,
display card -winfast a170 (GF4 mx 420)
RAM -Kingmax 128MB PC2700(x2)
MOBO-KT3 Ultra2
HDD-40GB Maxtor DM+8(7200RPM)
CD-rom -56x Aopen CDrom
CD-RW-40/12/48 Aopen CDRW
1pcs internal modem
the power supply it is enough for use or no?????
thanks

because last time i used all the parts is same,except the the power supply,
the psu last i used is enlight 300watt (180watt combined),it spoil my hddusing some monthafter iuse gf4 mx420,so change to enlight 420watt,now this set i want give to my sister,so the aopen 25owatt psu, no sure can use for 1500+ or no???
if can't i want downgrade to 1000(100MHz)default setting,may be the power will be enough for use
thanks

External PSU (power supply unit) for Video Card

Hello guys. My 7979 6gb Radeon card arrived, but my Mac Pro only has 6-pin connections for video cards and two molex inputs, when my video card needs two 8-pin ports (or four 4-pin molex ports, 2 for each 8-pin), since I tried running the card simply using one molex for each 8-pin port (the card just turns off when I try to load a graphic intense video game, but otherwise runs) and it fails. To solve this, I am purchasing new psu tomorrow morning at best buy. 2 questions
1. Since this psu will be external and not a replacement for the Mac pro psu, do I have to connect anything from the psu to the motherboard, or do I simply plug it into the wall outlet, and then plug the video card 8-pin cables into the psu ?
2. The "requirements" on the video cards website says that I require a 500 watt CPU. But I believe this assumes a 500 watt CPU that is powering the whole computer (fans, ram, hard drives etc), so does that mean that getting a 430 watt psu will be fine since its exclusively for the video card? I read online that at max usage, the card only uses about 370 watts.
Thanks

The PCI-e bus can provide 75 watts, as can each of the two 6-pin auxiliary power connectors, so you only need a 150 watt supply. It is possible to mount it internally, below the optical drive.
<http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1472518>
or externally
<http://macperformanceguide.com/blog/2011/20110406_1-PowerHungryVideoCards--howto .html>

Can I install a G3 Blue & White power supply unit in a G4 AGP?

I have a G3 and a G4. The G4s power supply unit (PSU) short circuited a while back and I got a G3 as a replacement. I've tried to find a replacement power supply unit for the G4 and have been using the G3 in its place. Sometimes they appear on ebay but I usually lose the auction. But the G3 has upgrade issues that involve spending money on it. It's a Blue and White 300 MHz Yosemite while the G4 is the Graphite AGP 400MHz Sawtooth. RAM isn't an issue, processing speed is, the G3 is harder to upgrade. Plus I can put up to 3 hard drives in the G4. 2 ATAs and a SCSI. the G3 only holds 1 ATA hard drive. With 2 SCSI bays.
Anyway I'm leaning towrds retiring the G3 and rebuilding the G4 starting with the PSU. And I've seen on auction sites that these units are compatible with both Macs, the Blue and White G3 and the AGP and PCI G4. It is essentially the same 240 watt unit made by Delta Electronics or ATX..
However as I spent part of the yesterday dismantleing and cleaning dust out the Sawtooth's innards, and removing the broken PSU, I also noticed on the G3 that the PSUs cables are slightly different. There is one cable that is connected to the start button. On the G4 this isn't the set up. The start button's cable is linked directly to the motherboard.
To get to the point. Is this cable arrangement a potential problem that I should avoid by not tinkering with it? Or can I ignore this and install the G3 PSU in my G4? I'm preceding with caution and will check back here later in the day.
Thanks.
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Thanks, Grant
Interesting opinion.. and funny too.
On close inpsection of the fron panel you're right the cable is a hard drive cable, and without a number. Whereas the connector for the DVD and Zip drive are numbered P7 and P6.
And in the G4 there is a slot for where this old connector went, but there's nothing to connect, no pins. It's as if this slot was evolutionary rump on its spine end where the tail ended, that the G4 designers left in or else they used left over parts from the G3 to save money.. This early G4, introduced in 1999-2000 is one evolutionary step above the G3 which was discontinued in early 1999. The G4 front panel has a slim grey ribbon cable leading under the chassis directly to the motherboard, along witha thin wire and small pin connector leading from the speaker.
There's nothing like a beakdown to learn how to rebuild your PowerMac. And I think most of the repairs are DIY doable. It just takes a few good screwdrivers, a little know how, some patience and a lot of spare time. All that and the correct replacement parts, if you can find them.
So I've finished installing the G3 PSU in the G4. It fits perfectly in and amazingly all the cables were long enough, including the cable to the ATA hard drive bay P2 and P3. Hard drive is connected, RAM installed, ready to go. All I have to do is plug the power cable into a power strip socket and hope for the familiar whirr and chime and breatha sigh of relief. If nothing happens then it prolly means the motherboard is kaputt. Or that it isn't compatible with the G4 architecture and it's back in the G3. I'll let the board know what's happened tomorrow. I'm off to Slumberland. ZZZZZzzzzz. rob
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

IPod HiFi A1121 power supply unit

Hi there,
I have an iPod HiFi A1121 and am aware it is discontinued. My power supply unit is the problem with mine, but due to the fact it seems quite complex and there are 3 different output wattages on it, it doesn't seem to be something I can just find a similar one of. Does anyone have a broken HiFi that they are prepared to part with, or does anyone know of anywhere I might be able to find a power supply unit from that would enable me to use my HiFi? It works on battery power and my friend has an adapter, that allows mains usage, but it means it will only play music to the same level as with batteries. Pleeeeeaassee could someone help me with any information? Thanks very much

Thanks!
Interesting, this "Piggy back power adapter" will allow me to plug the fan into one of the ATA/IDE cables? Or do you mean the extra port on the power supply? (it has one plug for the outlet>G4, then another to support something like a monitor or similar) The G4 has a DVD burner, but no ZIP drive, so this is quite do-able if it uses the ATA power.
When you say "lower rear", do you mean at the bottom? Below the power supply, to the right of the PCI slots? If so, this is the inflow for the CPU fan! I can understand mounting it outside the current outflow-vent for the dead power supply fan, although I'm not sure the best way to proceed with attaching the fan.
Another question: what tools and supplies will I need? I may need to remove the plastic cover on the back of the G4 - the one that is outside the power supply - as there's a gap between the gray plastic and metal chassis that lets air from outside the machine come in. The screws for this cover use a funky, hexagonal screwdriver. If I need to take this cover off, what kind of screwdriver will I need? Also, should the fan not include screws/etc, what's the best method to attach it? Glue?
Secondly, to cut a hole in the G4, will I need some variety of drill? I don't have one, so i'll have to borrow one... Since there's nothing in the ZIP slot, I can run a cable out through here (assuming it's long enough), and make a new bezel to keep the airflow inside intact.
Ah! One other (somewhat related) question: my USB 2 card includes a power adapter, for use when several un-powered devices (flash drives) are attached. It works just fine with a flash drive and a small media reader, but it's slow to sense the drives - I think it's low on power. Unfortunately, this power plug uses the same variety of plug as the floppy disk drives found on many win-boxes - of which the G4 possesses none. Is there an adapter/cable for this purpose?
Thanks, this is a HUGE help, I appreciate it.
-Dan

Installed new Power Supply unit.

For the past few months I have had the Sleep/Wake, Start-up problems wih my 1.8Ghz 20" G5 iMac, no iSight, no ALS, that so many G5 iMac owners have been experiencing, until it would not start up at all. No visibly bad caps on the logicboard but at least 4 bad caps in the Power Supply. I cleaned all the dust out of everywhere & I have finally gotten a new Power Supply unit, & installed it today, also changed the CR2032 lithium battery. I am ready to start up and I wonder what procedures should I perform to make sure I have covered all the bases to be back to normal conditions. Do I need to reset the SMU, reset the PRAM, Repair Permissions, run Apple Hardware Test on the Install Disc, etc.?
As usual, all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
John

hi Ralph,
Well, i started up & everything seemed to work OK, put it to sleep for about 20 minutes & woke it with the mouse, which I haven't been able to do for quite a while. I ran Apple Hardware Test from the Install Disc & everything Passed, hooray. Then I opened Disk Utility , chose "Macintosh HD" & ran Verify Permissions. A long list of "Permissions differ on ..." came up, starting with a "User differs on...".
User differs on ./Developer/Examples/WebKit/DiskCacheInspector/DiskCacheInspector.xcode/project .pbxproj, should be, owner is
Permissions differ on./Library/Application Support/Macromedia/Shockwave 10/Shockwave 10 Preferences, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Internet Plug-Ins/Flash Player.plugin/Contents/Info.plist, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Internet Plug-Ins/Flash Player.plugin/Contents/MacOS/Flash Player, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Internet Plug-Ins/flashplayer.xpt, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library/Preferences, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./Library, should be , they are
Permissions differ on ./private/var/log/secure.log, should be , they are
What thet should be & what they are are a lot of r's, w's & x's. I didn't type here what it said they are or what they should be because I don't know if there might be a security risk or not. Probably concerned over nothing.
Anyway, should I Repair Permissions or are they supposed to differ.
Thanks again for your help.
John

Power Mac G4 MDD power supply unit/RAM

Hello,
I just bought a used Power Mac G4 (Mirrored Drive Doors) at a garage sale for $20. The owner said it works, but he took out the RAM, power supply unit and hard drive.
I would like to place an order for the RAM and power supply unit but I am not sure how I differentiate which power supply unit to purchase. When I try to look it up all I find it is that it had gods gift to worst ever power supply unit in the history of power supply units. It was the loudest most obnoxious fan set up or something of the sort.
Well bottom line I need to get a few replacement parts for the old G4 desktop and was hoping that some experienced mac hardware person could point me in the right direction. I am comfortable replacing parts I am just not certain what I need to purchase to install.
Does anybody know of any good 3rd party hardware that they could suggest for a replacement part?
Power Mac G4
Designed by Apple in California
Model No.: M8570 EMC No.:1914
Thank you very much :]
(I am pretty sure I posted this in the right subcategory, sorry if I did not.)
None of these model numbers match, but it everything I research says it was from this generation of G4’s. How can I 100% tell which one is the model I have?

I just finished rebuilding my MDD (FW800). As for finding specific parts for your machine, be sure you have the model number, or are able to differentiate between the models. That being said, most of the case parts are interchangeable. Problems can occur when swapping processors and failing to use the proper heat sink for that processor.
The best place (price wise versus availability) that I've found for MDD power supplies is on eBay. However, be aware that you will probably be getting it used. So either ask the seller if they will guarantee it for a specified period of time, or buy it from a seller that offers a guarantee (normally 30 days). If you get one that lasts for 30 days without any problems you've probably got a good one. Price is normally around $140 + shipping.
Another avenue is to try shopping the web (Google) for what you need. There are a number of great websites that carry what you may need, or maybe are looking for. Some of those to checkout are:
www.applecomponents.com
www.otherworldcomputing.com
xlr8yourmac.com
www.lowendmac.com
Additionally there are a number of case and power supply mods that can be done to quiet down the MDD. Apple doesn't necessarily endorse these mods, as they deal with changing power supply cooling fans, and/or the processor/case cooling fans. However, if your MDD is out of warranty, you practice safe electrical/static work practices as you're working, and you're willing to accept any negative consequences should those mods either not work properly or they happen to result in damage to other components, then do what you feel is appropriate.
As for telling exactly which model you have, and how it was originally configured when it shipped from Apple, research the serial number through this Apple website. Another way is to check the model number of the motherboard. This is located near the PCI slots, by the modem connection. It will have a number something like 820-1453-A, or 820-1500-A. Cross referencing these through Google can help tell which motherboard you have. As for the processor, you'll need to carefully remove the heartsink (5 screws) and look at the chip(s) itself. If there are two chips it's a dual processor, and if only one it's a single (Duh!). Then locate the small white sticker that's stuck to the processor card for the processor's info. It should tell you what you need to know about it. You can also look at the info inscribed on the face of each processor chip.
Important Note: Be very careful, and wear a grounding wristband at all times when when working on the inside, or handling any computer components. This is particularly true when handling the processor card, and here's why. Any static shock from you to the motherboard or to the processor could severely damage or destroy that component.
Here's another link to way of quieting the MDD.
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/g4mirrored_drive_doors/noise_reduction/g4_ddr_noisereduction.html
Anyway, I hope these help you find what you need. Be careful!!
kudzu48

HT1766 Hello there, started to sinc my iPad 3 to my iPhone 5 with iCloud and a lot off the items did copy over, I was connected to a power supply but for some reason it's still missing half the items and I am struggling to retrieve them can you help pleas

Hello there, started to sinc my iPad 3 to my iPhone 5 with iCloud and a lot off the items did copy over, I was connected to a power supply but for some reason it's still missing half the items and I am struggling to retrieve them can you help please.
Thank you Callum Gordon

Well the term "hotlined" I have never heard before. In any case many states (like NY) just passed regulatory powers to the State Public Service Commission of which it may be called something different in your state. You could file a complaint with them. Or file a complaint with your state attorney generals office, they also take on wireless providers.
The problem here is the staff you speak to are poorly trained, in days gone by it took one call to them and they pulled up your account and see the error and had the authority to remove any errors. They did not remove legitimate account actions, but used their heads instead of putting a customer off or worse lying to the customer.
Its a shame you have to go through what you going through.
Good Luck

Power supply voltage for using PoE splitters

Dear Community
What is the power supply voltage for Apple TV 3?
Power consumption has been specified on the Apple product site, but not the power supply voltage.
Should be 5, 9 or 12 Volt.
Thanks!

http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0d88/0900766b80d88153.pdf
Every Expert was once a Beginner!!

Warranty duration for T61 power supply unit

Hi all,
we are working with Lenovo T61 laptops and they have a 3 years on-site warranty. Do you know if like batteries, power supplies unit have a limited warranty period ? Thank you
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Welcome to the forum!
Your T61's power supply is covered by warranty for its entire duration, unlike batteries which are limited to one year.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
George
In daily use: R60F, R500F, T61, T410
Collecting dust: T60
Enjoying retirement: A31p, T42p,
Non-ThinkPads: Panasonic CF-31 & CF-52, HP 8760W
Starting Thursday, 08/14/2014 I'll be away from the forums until further notice. Please do NOT send private messages since I won't be able to read them. Thank you.

Do I need to replace video graphic card or power supply unit on hp compaq presario sr2180nx

hello all
i saw a similar post over 4 years ago, however it doesn't address my issue.
my pc started stalling when i attempt to turn it on. It wouldn't come on. Then after several tries every now and then it would come on. I was told through searching that it could be the video graphic card or the power supply. Therefore once i had the computer back on. I never shut it off. However, i could reboot and it would come on.
Now it won't come on again. So i don't know what to replace. The video graphic card or the power supply. If it is the graphic card, do i replace the one previously installed or add a new one. And if adding a new one, what is recommended to be compatible with my 300 watt supply unit? I'm lost as what route to take and how.Below are the details of my unit.
HP/Compaq Presario SR2180NX desktop PC with a P5LP-LE motherboard with an Integrated graphics using Intel GMA 950.
*Integrated video is not available if a graphics card is installed.
Also supports PCI Express x16 graphics cards
300 watt supply.
thank you in advance for any help you can give me.

Is there an add-in video card in the slot? If so, remove it and try to turn on. If the problem is the video card it will turn on. If not it is the power supply.

Power supply options for H530

I am currently running a Dell Dimension 2400 with 640 meg of ram and Windows XP. The computer has served me well for the last 6 years but I think it's time for an upgrade. We use our computer for basic email, web surfing and occasionally microsoft office documents. I received a email this morning that the Lenovo H530 is on sale for $399.00 (100 dollars off). It has 4 GB of ram, windows 7, 1TB hard drive, Intel dual core G3220 processor. It is expandable to 16 GB of ram. I am sure that this computer is sufficient for our needs. The only question that I have would be the power supply. The unit comes with a 180 watt power supply. I know in the past I attempted to install a video card in my old Dell and it wouldn't work because of the power supply. Evidently it did not produce enough power to run the system and the additional video card. Will I run into any issues if I wanted to install a power supply with more wattage in the Lenovo so I can install a video card down the road if I wanted? Thanks for your help

hi johnfillippi,
Welcome to the Forums.
AFAIK, you shouldn't have any problems or encounter any issue(s) replacing the stock PSU of the H530 as it uses the standard ATX form factor (the front panel connectors are also standard).
In addition, if you'll be using an aftermarket graphics card other than the one listed on page 49-50 of the hardware maintenance manual then you may want to check this article as you may need to alter some BIOS settings for the graphics card to work (this applies if the BIOS is UEFI enabled).
- Link to picture
Regards
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Power Supply Selecton for K8N Neo4 Plat. Ultra

I am looking at 3 PSU's for this MotherBoard and following setup below.
MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum Ultra Socket 939
MSI NX6600GT PCIE Video Card
2- WD Raptors 36 GB
1- DVD/RW
1- CD/RW
2- Sticks Crucial Ballistic 1GB Matched Pair
1- Floppy Drive
2- 120mm Case Fans
2- 80mm Case Fans
Windows XP Pro SP2
Power supplies in question:
OCZ45012U 3.3v Rail=28a 5v Rail=45a 12v Rail=26a INPUT 10/6a
OCZ52012U 3.3v Rail=28a 5v Rail=45a 12v Rail=26a INPUT 12/6a
Rosewill RP550 3.3v Rail=30a 5v Rail=50a 12v Rail=35a
The only difference I can see in the 2 OCZ's, is the INPUT. The 450 OCZ is about a $30.00 cheaper than the 520 OCZ.
Can someone tell me what effect the INPUT amp would make??
Thanks for any and all advice.
Modified by workknot to complete the Post.
Regards; Pop's

Thanks to all that have responded to this topic. I did some more searching and was able to determine some more facts on both of the OCZ PSU's.
OCZ45012U 3.3v = 28a 5v = 45a 12v = 26a Peak Load 60 Sec. 550W INPUT 10/6a Price: $89.99
OCZ52012U 3.3v = 28a 5v = 52a 12v = 28a Peak Load 60 Sec. 620W INPUT 12/6a Price: $108.99
Now I can clearly see that the OCZ52012U is stronger on the +5V rail and the +12V rail. For less than $20.00 in the prices, I have for now decided to go with the OCZ52012U and it looks as though it will suit my needs just fine. The confusion to start with was some information on the NewEgg site that had some specs incorrect. I found the correct specs by looking directly at the power supply stickers on both units.
Regards; Pop's

Power supply/adapter for Motorola ONT1000GI4

I fell for the three service package when getting FiOS initially. It turned out I didn't use the phone at all and I haven't watched TV in months. I digress, during the install, I noticed the tech installing the battery which, according to him was to facilitate phone calls during power outages.
The battery backup unit started beeping periodically the past few weeks indicating it needs to be replaced (though supposedly, it lasts 5 years and I've had it for just over one.) I decided to disconnect it altogether which is when I realized that the ONT is powered directly by the unit with some proprietary connector that looks similar to an S-video cable.
I would like to purchase a standalone power adapter/cable to power it via wall adapter instead of having to use the big battery which serves no purpose to me aside from taking up space and being an eyesore. Unfortunately, I've been unable to find much info on the ONT model to help me in my search. Also, there's no power information on the ONT indicating the voltage and amps required.
Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
P/N is 567004-003-00
FA P/N (not sure what this is, but it's on the unit as well) is 573796-003-00

You cannot easily replace the power supply / battery unit ("BBU"). The ONT communicates with it to obtain status on power and battery. It's more than just supplying the correct voltage.
You have several options to deal with the low battery:
Remove the current battery and press the battery silence button.
Re-install the current battery and see if that turns off the warning beep.
Buy a new battery. Online prices are very good.
Earplugs.
Note that if you have a battery, the internet will stay up for a minute or two during power outages. If you want longer run time, you need to supply your own UPS.
Good Luck.
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Power Supply Unit for a PSC 1205?

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