Premiere pro cs4 to HD youtube.

I have looked around and checked the wiki. The answer on exporting to youtube was not sufficent.
I conducted a series of interviews using a Cannon HD VIXIA HF100 for a university project that I am editing, putting on youtube, and placing on a blog.
When I export it with the following settings It views nicely on my computer but on youtube it looks like the attached image.
Format: H.264
Preset ustom
Filters>None
Multiplexer>Multiplexing: MP4
          Stream Compatibility Standard
Video>
          Codec: MainConcept h.264 Video
          TV Standard NTSC
          Frame Width 1440
          Frame Height 1080
          Frame Rate 29.97
          Field Order: Lower
          Pixel Aspect Ratio: Widescreen 16:9
          Profile: Main
          Level: 4.0
          Bitrate Encoding: VBR, 1 pass
             Targe Bitrate: 15 Mbps
          Maximum Bitrate: 20mps
Audio>
          Audio Fromat: AAC
          Codec: AAC
Output Channels: Stero
Frequency: 48 kHz
          audio quality: High
          bitrate: 160 kbps
               precedene: bitrate
I must admit I am not 100% sure what my video was recorded at, but clicking on the proerpities in VLC I return this:
Stream 1
      type: Audio
      Oringal id: 4352
      Codec: a52
      Channels: Stero
      Sample Rate: 48000hz
      bitrate: 256 kb/s
     Stream 0:
      type: video
      Orgiginal ID: 4113
      codec: h264
      Resolution: 1440x1080
      Display Resolution: 1440x1080
      Frame Rate: 59.940059
I suppose can anyone suggest settings that may allow for proper HD viewing on youtube. Thanks

I've had similar issues. The Field Order seems to be the key and I don't know why. Try None(progressive) as the Field Order, as long as I do that the rest of the settings do not matter. But when I've done this the quality while playing from the desktop looks bad in that it appears frames are missing, kind of choppy, ends up okay on youtube though.

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I rendered the layers and they still looked pixelated, even after export they were pixelated.
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Thanks for your reply and welcome to the forum.
I wondered why premiere was doing such a bad job of anti-aliasing...it turns out that all the .psd files were imported as square pixels instead of rectangular so I right clicked and selected interpret footage, then selected conform to DV PAL1.45.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8HUOAJomao&playnext=2&playnext_from=PL

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Hi,
I got Premiere Pro CS4 some time back and never got round to properly learning to use it. I've picked it up again and have put together a small video sequence to ensure I can create something simple for a start and that it publishes fine but I've encountered a problem at the publishing stage (and I want to use it in After Effects so this is irritating me):
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What CODEC did you choose with your MOV Export?
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here's what it looks like before i edited it.
and heres after:

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Dave,
Deleted all stuff...
You might try this "TEST" at some point if you're using equipment to record sound as outlined in the following article....at any rate you might find the article interesting anyway for the future...
----------------------sorry I should give credit to who wrote it but you can google the first line and find it maybe -----------
sync demuxed sound The Problem -
Miniature audio recorders, be they minidisc or solid state, offer a very attractive, cost effective, alternative to the traditional use of radio microphones, for the capture of remote audio sources in video recordings
These machines record the audio in a variety of different formats - MP3, WMA, WAV, ATRAC -- and in a variety of qualities - but they all suffer from the same problem. It can be difficult to synchronise the remotely recorded audio, with the camera recorded audio.
Although the time honoured tradition of an audio 'clapper board' works well enough to align the beginning of the two soundtracks, there is a tendency for the two tracks to appear to 'drift' out of sync over time - and the longer the recording, the worse the problem. In fact they do not actually 'drift', but the gradual loss of sync is a function of the camera and audio recorder sample clocks being slightly different frequencies.
The simple reason for this loss of 'sync' therefore is that the audio is being recorded at different speeds. Although the recorder will specify the sampling frequency, the accuracy is then dependent on the internal crystal oscillator of the recorder - which is, of course, a different oscillator from the one controlling the camera timing. Although these crystals may typically be accurate to within 0.005% or better, even this degree of accuracy can cause the two recorded audio tracks to be out of sync by up to 300mS after 30 minutes. Even after 5 minutes, the 2 tracks can be some 60mS different in length, in a worst case scenario.
60mS difference will cause a distinctly audible 'echo' between the two audio tracks. (Even 20mS is detectable as a separate echo).
This difference is of course totally unacceptable, and corrections need to be applied. It is important to remember that even if your audio recorder crystal is absolutely accurate, and it is the camera clock that is slightly wrong, it is still the remote audio track that will have to be corrected. The 'wrong' camera audio track is the one in sync with the video, and has to be the 'master' track.
The Solution
It is important to realise that although the sample oscillators may vary with regard to each other, they tend to be remarkably accurate over time, referenced to themselves.
This means that if you know by how much the frequency your audio recorder sample 'clock' differs from the camera 'clock', then a single correction factor will bring both tracks back into sync.
A simple procedure is outlined below, using free programs, to enable you to calculate the correction factor required for your particular recorder.
Programs required (all free):
1) AoA audio Extractor --- (not necessary if you can extract the audio track from a video recording in your NLE)
2) Audacity , a free audio editor
3) Switch , a free audio file type converter
Step 1: Set up your camera and audio recorder next to each other, and start both running
Step 2: Make a good audio 'clapperboard' point by tapping a pencil firmly onto a hard surface, as close to both camera and recorder mics as possible. This will cause a fast 'edge' to become the reference point, which will be useful later.
Step3: Let both devices run for at least 10 minutes. 20 minutes are better, but not essential.
At the end of the period, (timing not critical), make a second similar 'clapperboard' reference point. Allow a few more seconds recording, and then stop both devices.
Step 4: Download the video from the camera, and the audio from the recorder to your computer.
Step 5: Open the video file in 'AoA audio Extractor', and extract the audio from the video. Convert this audio file (if necessary) to a 48KHz 16 bit LPCM (wav) file, using the 'Switch' program linked to above. This file will be your reference audio file.
Step 6: Open the WAV file saved in the previous step in 'Audacity' - a free audio editor.
It is now necessary to save only the part of the file between the two 'clapperboard' references, which hopefully stand out clearly (if you hit the pencil hard enough in steps 2 and 3!).
This must be done accurately, to within 100th of a second, or better.
Click and drag the file to highlight the beginning section, including the first 'clapperboard' waveform. Use the 'fit selection to window' tool (immediately to the right of the 'zoom' tools) to magnify. Delete as much as possible before the 'clapper' reference. Repeat the operation until you can clearly identify the first distinct waveform of the 'clapper' reference waveform. Click, hold and place the cursor directly over the first full (clipped) waveform, where it crosses the centre line. Delete every thing to the left of that point, by clicking and dragging to highlight, and then deleting with the scissors tool.
Step 7: Repeat the above procedure for the end part of the waveform, again using the start of the second 'clapper' waveform as your reference cutting point. In this case, cut everything to the right of your selected reference point (not the left, as in the first case.)
Step 8: It is necessary to record the exact length of this new cropped waveform. This information is listed at the bottom of the window, but in a rather inappropriate format. Locate the toolbar at the top of the window, click 'Edit'-'select all' and then 'Effects'-'change tempo' . Note the length of the file in seconds in the right hand box (the left hand box is greyed out).
Record this figure. It is the reference file length
Step 9: It is necessary to convert the file recorded on the audio recorder into an identical format to the camera audio track, namely 48 KHz 16 bit PCM. If the track is not already in this format, open it in Switch, a free file transfer program, and select the output encoding as 48 KHz 16 bit, mono or stereo to fit your audio file. This program will then convert whatever format your input file is (MP3, WMA, 44.1 KHz PCM, etc) into the required 48 KHz, 16 bit format required.
Step 10: Repeat the procedures in steps 6 and 7 for this new file. Edit the 'clapper' points with as much accuracy as before, but notice that the 'clapper' waveform will appear different from the first, although hopefully with as clearly defined first ' zero crossing' point.
Step 11: Repeat the procedure in step 8, and you will notice that the overall file length is different.
Overwrite the original file length into the right hand box, and take careful note of the resulting figure in the percent change box. Make sure you record whether it is a plus or minus value - it could be either! This is the most important figure, because it represents the percentage variation between the two units.
Once you have obtained this value, simply apply it to all files recorded with the same recorder and this camera. Providing you can align the start of the file with a single 'clapperboard' mark, there is no need to repeat the rest. Simply change the length of the external audio file by the correct percentage value, to allow the two audio tracks to remain synchronised.
It may seem a long winded process, but it only needs to be done once, and could then save quite a lot of time, against the option of trying to align tracks manually in your NLE, in small sections.
You may of course wish to use an alternative audio editor, and the details of this procedure may then be slightly different, but the principle remains the same.

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[..\..\Scr\Component\ComponentFactory.cpp-119]
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Have you just installed the software or applied
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Ben,
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Hitting ALT+Space,
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Again, a BIG Thank You!!!
Tony Salso
[email protected]
Cedar City, UT 84720
Tony—Professional Digital Pictures
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Red Hills Southern Baptist Church
Serving Jesus in Southern Utah
[email protected]
www.redhillssbc.org

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I hope this helps

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Please see a post I made this morning under my screen name BruceERoberts .... details below
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System Info
MS Windows XP
Version 2002 SP3
Dell Dimension XPS
Pentium 4 CPU 3.4 Ghs
3.39 Ghz 3.00 GB of RAM

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Use of a capture board in Premiere Pro CS4

For several years I have been using Premiere Pro 1.5 with a Canopus Storm 2 capture card and drivers. It has been working fine for me. Actually I have been doing event video for about twenty years and have gone through a lot of Premiere progams. I went from VHS to S-VHS and then into Mini DV. I don't think I will be going to HD. However, like life, we need to keep up with some of the changes. So I have been considering upgrading to Premiere Pro CS4. I was told that Canopus is no longer working with Adobe and that now it is Grass Valley and they have their own editing software. They no longer want to let the user of their products use Adobe products. If this is so, then what type of capture card is working with Premiere Pro CS4? And what is the cost for my changing my system? At least a ball park figure. I just had a new OS put into my video editing computer and right now everything is screwed up. The Adobe Premiere Pro and Canopus seem to be working okay, but I am not getting anything out from my computer to my editing monitor and sound mixer. I worked all week on it and to no avail. For years I did event video and put out some fantastic stuff, now I just want to do some informational videos and nothing is working right. I am open for suggestions.

Okay Harm, that is part of the problem. Since I put in a new OS I can't get my video editing to do right. Nothing is showing up on my studio monitor that is hooked to the Storm 2 card and nothing is coming in to my Mackie 1402 VLZ Pro line mixer that is connected to a CREATIVE Sound Blaster Live card. I have done everything I can think of and nothing is coming out. I have everything hooked up just like it has been for the past five or six years. I downloaded all of my software - Previere Pro first and then Canopus and then Sound Blaster and the plug-ins seem to go in okay. What I am getting is a sound apperance on the Premiere sound screen and also a wave form on the timeline. In all apperance the Storm card and the Premiere are working, but nothing seems to be coming out. Also I am getting no sound out when I download music in Audition. I did before I replaced my Windows XP SP3 OS.
I didn't know that the Canopus Storm 2 had a conflict with PP 1.5. I guess I never experienced any trounble before.
I just now went into my Adobe Premiere Pro 1.5 and opened up a capture that I had downloaded into the timeline. Here is what happens. When I scrub the Capture monitor in PP everything works fine in the computer and the studio monitor and sound line mixer. But when I scrub the timeline I get no sound out, and nothing shows up on my studio monitor. It is almost like everything is reverse.

Can I import I-life files into Adobe Premiere Pro CS4?

Okay, so not exactly an Apple question, but there are so many smart, helpful people on here, and the Adobe forum doesn' t seem very active.
I recently got Adobe Premiere Pro CS4 (the movie editing software). I tried to import files from I-photo, but those folders wouldn't even open. Tried to import files from the movie folder, which were in .mpg format, but got a message that it is an incompatible format.
Those were just simple movie files taken with a small digital camera. Does anyone know how I could use this footage in Adobe Pro? I have access to other Adobe software as well, perhaps there is a way to convert the files? If I try to import something to Adobe from I-movie, should that work? Or from I-DVD? Also, is it possible, with Adobe or regular Mac software, to import regular DVD footage (that is not in form of a computer file, but just something that plays in your DVD player) or perhaps convert it into a computer file? I have some old VHS footage that was copied onto a DVD and would like to edit it, or at least have it on my computer as a file.
Also, if I can't use those files, are there any places on the internet where one can download some simple footage to try out in Adobe? I'm new to it, so I'm just trying to get some files together so I can try out how it works.
Lastly, if anyone knows of a good online tutorual for CS4. It's an older version, and on the Adobe site they only have tutorials for the newer one.
Thanks!

This is a forum. None of the users here -at least not to my knowledge - are Adobe professional
Ninety-nine point nine percent correct. We are blessed with a few Adobe employees here, unlike some fora, but those folk are probably at NAB right now. Also, they are in other departments, so would have to walk "down the hall," or make a call, just as we would.
When it gets to issues on licensing, installation, etc., we're pretty much at a loss. Most of us have never encountered such issues, and only know what we have read in others' threads, when they have bothered to report back. Even then, that is third-hand info.
Last time that I had an Adobe installation issue was AI 3, IIRC. My upgrade version did not have the old database of S/N's. Mine was 00-000-003, and things had changed drastically. One call to Adobe, and a total time of about 5 mins. (including hold time), and I was given a number to plug in, and then everything installed perfectly. That was in about 1989, so is not quite contemporary. Still, that is the last and only first-person account that I can offer. Most here have zero personal experiences, as they came to the party later, and have just not had any such issues.
We'd love to help, but just do not have the experience.
Good luck,
Hunt

Premiere pro cs4 to HD youtube.

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