Problem listening to/recording vinyl records

Hello
I am trying to listen to/record vinyl. I am using a Dell 8700, Windows 8.1 and a Sound Blaster Recon3D PCIe sound card. I have the output from the turntable/preamp plugged into the line in/microphone in jack but am getting no sound. Does anyone know if this should work?
I have downloaded Creative's free Wave Studio 7 program from the sound card web site. It is for Windows 8 and earlier OS. I am able to record from What U Hear but not from the line in/microphone in jack.
Is it possible that it will record line in for Windows 8 but not Windows 8.1? Are the two OS that different?
Judy

Creative Support has informed me that Media Toolbox 6 andWaveStudio 7 are not supported in Windows 8.1 and that they have no plans for an update at the moment. They did suggest that I could try installing them to my Windows 8.1 system but if there was any issue they would not be able to support me.
I am probably going to use Audacity to record my vinyl. It is free and their website says it is compatible with Windows 8.1

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You stereo system's AUX ports are probably inputs, not outputs. Does it have TAPE OUT ports? They should work with your cable to the Mac's audio input. See if you get any signal in the "Input" tab of "Sound" system preference. Select "Line In" and adjust the input volume slider.
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Recording vinyl records

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Coops03 wrote:
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http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/GBFAQ.html#exportsections
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SmartRecorder is specially designed for that job.

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Remove "Pop Noise" from an old vinyl record?

Hi guys,
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Yes Zia this is a basic fundtion but it can be very frustrating if you try to do too much at one time.
That's my advice, once you get into the Anaylsis(not Actions) portion select just the points where you find the pops manually, no more than a few minutes at a time or else your computer will spend all day trying to highlight all the problems, and believe me you don't want the fix that comes from letting it go through the entire audio in 24hrs.
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Vinyl records (yes)played thru computer

Ok, I have an HP media center m8013w running Vista Home Premium ,which does more than I have learned how to use at this point.
I have recently recovered some very (30+ year) old vinyl records that I owned in a previous life.
I have a good quality turntable to play them on and it has left and right audio input plugs. I have connectede to audio 2 L&R but can't find a player to get the sound out.
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Second how do I get them to save to hard drive?
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Check your mixer settings (through the control panel likely) to make sure you don't have the audio input channel you are trying to use muted. If they aren't muted, then one would think that Windows Media Player or Winamp would have a source configuration in it's setup or preferences in order to hear the records. Also, what sound card are you using and have you checked their website for software/advice?
I too am looking to someday salvage some very old records left to me by my parents, and I honestly think that the best solution would be to buy one of the new USB turntables that come packaged with software to do exactly what we are trying to do. Less muss, less fuss, just have to save up the $$$$.
insert signature here

Griffin iMic USB vs. ADS Tech Instant Music for Vinyl Recording

This is a repost, I posted in OSX accidentally. Sorry! Anyway, can anyone advise me, I am new at this... I just bought an Audio-Technica AT-PL120 Direct Drive Turntable (on its way to me) so I can transfer old LP's to my Macbook Pro for iPod and CD listening. It has a selectable internal stereo phono preamplifier and the ability to choose from phono or line-level output. Now, to get the sound INTO my Macbook pro, should I go with the Griffin iMic USB or the ADS Tech Instant Music for Vinyl Recording? Also, anyone heard of THIS device and do I even need it?
Griffin Turntable Connection Cable with Grounding:
http://ec2.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0007PL4BC.01-ADG953YR6NRBF.SS500_SCLZZZZZZZ_V60716819.jpg
Thanks for ANY advice!
Jody
Mac OS X (10.2.x)
Macbook Pro 17" Mac OS X (10.4.8)

I think you probably have everything you need except for appropriate audio recording software. For example, your MacBook Pro probably has an audio input jack that can be set to line level. If that is the case, then all you need is a cable from the turntable (set at line level) to the MacBook's audio in (plus the recording software).
However, a quick websearch on the ADS thingy found a review which should help you.
http://www.macnn.com/reviews/review.php?id=164
Based on that, the ADS thing may be worth it just in terms of making it easier for you, even if you don't, strictly speaking, need it. It appears to include recording software called CD Spin Doctor. I'm not too fond if CD Spin Doctor, but it will get get the job done. I like Amadeus for audio recording.
The review may also provide you with sufficient explanation on how to do the whole process.

Clear Instructions: import Vinyl records into iTunes

I have been researching for some weeks. Amazing,no succinct article or info on HOW to use a Mac and import music from Vinyl records into iTunes. ( Adam Engst, where is a Tidbits eBook when I need it?)
I think I have the gist but maybe you audiophiles can clarify for me?
(not sure what format to use when finally able to import the music file into iTunes)
- have ordered an AudioTechnica turntable
-using iMac G4...am I correct that it does not have a distinct "LINE IN"?
- So, will need iMic from Griffin
-will use Audacity (available free or lo cost with the iMic?
-Possibly use "ClickRepair" to rid of clicks and clacks in the music?
Clean the vinyl first (any suggestions what to use?)
connect turntable to iMac via iMic
put record on the platter
launch Audacity
start the turntable
tell Audacity to record into a non compressed format (so I can use ClickRepair).
after both software products have finished, import into iTunes?
As what? AiFF, Apple Lossless?
Any and all advice appreciated.
(This is birthday gift for hubby and I want to get it right !)
Message was edited by: Barbara Passman3

Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
The short version of what needs to be done is this:
* Set up the hardware - find the cables needed to connect the turntable to the Mac.
* Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
* Clean the vinyl LP
* Set up the recording software - select input and output, designate where the file is to be saved and in what format (considering quality level desired and hard drive space available), enable "pass through" (so you can listen while recording), and set the recording level.
* Record
* Edit - define tracks, if necessary, clean pops and scratches, if possible
* Import into iTunes - name tracks, change file format, if necessary to save hard drive space
Here is the long version:
*Hardware:
I suggest connecting your turntable to a stereo amplifier or pre-amplifier which has a "Phono" input. The (red and white) RCA plugs on the turntable would plug into the Phono jacks on the back of the amp. Then, use a stereo-RCA-to-1/8th-inch-minijack-cable (RadioShack) to connect a set of the amplifier's "Line Out" jacks to the Mac's audio "Line In" port.
If your Mac does not have a "Line In" port, I highly recommend the Griffin iMic ($40 - http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic/). The iMic comes with a short RCA-minijack cable; you will probably want a 1/8th inch stereo extension cable which is long enough to reach between the turntable and the Mac.
I also suggest a good set of headphones - especially if you are applying filters and effects. It will be difficult or impossible to tell what you are doing if you are monitoring the results with typical computer speakers. I use (and highly recommend) the Sennheiser HD-485s although there are many others you could choose from.
* RIAA Equalization - As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will need to provide an RIAA equalization curve so your LPs will sound right when played back. Your stereo amplifier or pre-amp with a "Phono" input has that built in, so you are all set.
If, however, you don't have an amp or pre-amp with "Phono" inputs, then you could connect the turntable's RCA jacks directly to the iMic and use the Final Vinyl software (included with the iMic) to provide the RIAA curve (Filters>Add>EQ> then check the button "Connected to a turntable"). I can't comment on the results from using Final Vinyl's for the RIAA, because I use a stereo amp.
* Clean the vinyl LP:
First, I use a brush with very fine nylon bristles and a weak solution of dishwashing detergent in tepid water (http://www.needledoctor.com/Online-Store/Nylon-Bristle-Brushes) to remove dirt and fingerprints. Gently work the bush with a concentric motion, following the groves, then, rinse under tepid tap water and blot dry on a clean tea towel.
This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
I should mention, my goal was to clean the LP for one last playback for the recording, without consideration of what long-term effect my cleaning method might have on the LP.
Don't forget to examine the needle on the turntable cartridge - it can collect crud which seriously degrades the playback quality. The Discwasher kit has a little brush for the needle, too - careful - it's very fragile.
*Set up the Software:
For general recording, including LPs, I recommend "Audio Hijack Pro" ($32 - http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijackpro/) I prefer Audio Hijack Pro to Final Vinyl and CD Spin Doctor, because I can use it to record from many more sources (including streaming audio from the internet), it has many more options for effects and file types, a better Help manual, and, in my experience, fewer crashes. However, Audio Hijack Pro does not offer an RIAA equalization curve, as does Final Vinyl.
- Format - IF you have enough hard drive space, I would suggest you make the initial recording in 16 bit AIFF format at 44.1kHz. That is the standard format used by audio CDs, so this file type can be burned directly to CDs without conversion or compression. Every audio software application should be able to open an AIFF file.
If the AIFF files take up too much room on your hard drive, you can always convert them to MP3 or AAC, using your recording software or iTunes, but I suggest you first burn a copy of your AIFF recording to a CD, so you can go back to the original "master" recording in case you want to re-edit it later.
Some file formats which are compressed - like MP3s - get re-compressed every time you Save. A little information is lost each time the file is compressed, so if you are doing a lot of editing and saving, the file can degrade. That's why I prefer to do any editing on AIFF files, which I change to high quality MP3s in iTunes only when I am done editing.
- Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
- Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
- Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
My suggestion is to make your "master" raw recording using few or no effects, then go back and edit COPIES of the master, so if you mess it up, you can start over. With experience, you will learn what works - only then you should apply the filters as you record.
* Record:
If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
If you are recording in the AIFF format, don't waste time naming albums, artists, and tracks in the recording software. That info is not encoded in the AIFF file, so when you move the file to iTunes you will have to rename everything again. Might work if you are recording in the MP3 format.
* Edit:
If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
"CD Spin Doctor" is somewhat useful, offering separate sliders for applying "De-click" De-crackle" and "De-hiss". The effect can quickly be previewed, and after you get the degree of adjustment you want, it can be applied to the whole file (works on AIFF, not MP3). My copy of CD Spin Doctor came with Toast Titanium 6, but I see it is now being sold on Roxio's site as a stand-alone application ($40 - http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/spindoctor/overview.html). Sadly, the improvement I've seen in LP noise has been less than miraculous.
Many reviewers say great things about SoundSoap2, but I was disappointed. It is the best noise reduction software I have tried, and also the most expensive ($129 - http://www.bias-inc.com/products/soundSoap2/), but I was unable to make much improvement in LP pops and scratches without also degrading the overall quality of the audio. It has a "Learn Noise" feature which is very cool - in theory. Find a groove to sample with pops (but no music) and SoundSoap2 will eliminate the same noise profile from the entire recording. There is another cool feature in which you can listen just to the "noise" which is to be removed - and there you will hear the learned "pop" also includes quite a bit of the music spectrum.
SoundSoap2 is pretty good at cleaning up hiss from tape recordings and wind noise from microphone recordings, but not so good for LPs.
Some editing software (like CD Spin Doctor and SoundSoap2) offer an "Exciter" or "Excitifier" effect which helps restore some of the brilliance and high end which is lost in noise reduction. This is one of the few effects which I've found to be useful, if used in moderation.
I haven't tried "ClickRepair" which I just learned about from this thread, but after reading the website (http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/) and Version Tracker, I'm hopeful that it will perform better than CD Spin Doctor and Soundsoap2. Thanks for the tip.
* Import into iTunes:
After I have the recording edited and cleaned, I import it into iTunes. At this stage I usually have AIFF files, one for each track on the LP. In iTunes, the album and tracks will have generic names (track 1, track 2, etc.), so I edit the Album name, track titles, genre, year, etc (File>Get info>Info tab); Select the whole album before "get info" to edit the Album, Artist, Genre and Year info, but select each track one-at-a-time to edit the Track titles.
Next, I burn one or two "master" copies of the edited recording as an audio CD form the AIFF files. Be aware that if you burn an audio CD, the album and track names you edited will appear only when you insert that CD back into the same Mac it was burned on - take it to another Mac or PC and all you will see are the Generic names (track 1, etc) - this is normal for an audio (AIFF) CD.
Because they take up so much room, I don't keep AIFF files on my hard drive - I use iTunes to convert them to MP3 files (Advanced>Convert Selection to MP3). You may want to use AAC or some other format, instead. Consider all possible future uses of your iTunes library (iPod vs non-Apple MP3 player, compatibility with the CD player in your car or home stereo, quality of your playback equipment, etc.)
To change the quality of the MP3 or AAC files imported to iTunes, go to: Preferenes>Advanced>Importing. (I use a Custom import setup of: High Quality (160kbps), Variable bit rate - a step up from the mor common 128kbps MP3.) Whatever settings you have selected here is what will be used when your AIFF files are converted to MP3. After converting the recording to MP3, I delete the AIFF file from iTunes (and my hard drive), but I keep my master (AIFF) CD in a safe, accessible location.
If I want a music mix to listen to in my car, or for a party, or for background music while I work, the MP3 files on my hard drive are fine. However, if I really want to listen to the music on quality playback equipment, I'll choose the CD I burned from the uncompressed (AIFF) file.
Hope this helps.

Converting from vinyl records

I got a pc usb turn table called ez vinyl converter and it only works with Itunes, problem is when i record a record i tunes starts to convert it i got about 100 converts or it stops and box pops up saying unable to export to i tunes please make sure you close any active windows in i tunes would you like to try exporting again yes or no. if i hits yes it starts to export then stop asking the same thing PLEASE HELP

Does the EZ vinyl website have any advice?

Need advice in importing analog vinyl records

My wife has asked me to try to import a couple of her childhood Christmas albums into iTunes (so we can burn CDs). I have reasonably computer and audio savvy, but I can't seem to get a foothold to figure out how to approach this. I have read all posts here twice. I so far have not been able to record any audio on my computer..so first issue is not quality but just basic input.
Here is my background. I have an old turntable (with red and white RCA outputs). I don't have a pre-amp, but do have newer receiver with most all ouputs. For software, I have Garageband, Roxio Toast 5 (for OS 9), and Audacity. None of these have decent enough "help" functions, although I have read each several times.
I think my core issue might be wires, but not sure. I have tons of wires, including
1) DAC100 Analog to Digital Video adapter, which works well with videos..but I can't find manual to help see if it can work with audio
2) "Y adapter". One side has female RCAs of Y, R, and W. Other side has Yellow (video) and Black (audio) plug. This seems to plug into the computer OK. (I think this should work as well as imic)
Can someone point me to a good detailed instruction of how to get this to work? This should not be that hard.
Thanks!! David

A new receiver very often does not have the correct pre-amp for old turntables.
Did you verify this?
If your amplifier/receiver does not have a special connection for turntables, the audio might have lack of low frequencies.
This Wiki tells you more about the necessary RIAA equalization:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalization
If your amplifier/receiver is OK for the job, the cable you described should work.
Select the input in System Preferences>Sound, fire up Audacity and you're ready to record.
Sounds simple, but you might encounter several problems.
Audacity isn't my first choice. It's a good fairly good sound editor, but lacks easy settings for recording an entire LP and splitting it in tracks.
My iMac doesn't have an audio input, so I've used an iMic to digitize my vinyl records. The accompanying software (Final Vinyl) makes it a lot easier (even has a setting for RIAA correction). I didn't use it though.
I used my old amplifier as the source for the iMic and used CD Spin Doctor (part of Toast 6 and 7) to record the LPs and split them into the correct tracks.
Unfortunately, there is no standard 'recipe'
M
17' iMac 800 MHz, 768 MB RAM, 200 GB HD, DL burner Mac OS X (10.4.8) iTunes 7.0.2

How to record vinyl at 24bit?

Hi guys,
I have some vinyl records Id like to record using audition. Normally I record at 16bits and just burn on cd but I recently read that you can record at 24bits and burn it to dvd for better sound. Can someone please tell me what I need to do this? I know I can record using audition but do I need special burning software to do this. I use Roxio Easy Media Creator 7 for burning usually. Any help would be great!
MaxQ

Okay, it doesn't take much telling, and of course it's not in the book, so here's
Vinyl Processing 101
>Where do I tell Audition to record in 32bit float before I start recording...
In Edit View (which is fine for recording vinyl) you get the option in the 'New Waveform' pane that pops up when you hit the record button - so you select 44.1k, stereo and under Resolution, 32-bit Float.
In Multitrack View, it's a preference. So you go to Edit>Preferences>Multitrack and set the Rec Bit Depth default to 32-bit, and whilst you are there make sure that Auto Mixdown is set to 32-bit as well. But quite frankly, unless you have a specific reason for recording in MV I wouldn't bother when it comes to vinyl - you have to do most of the processing in EV anyway.
The only valid reason that I can think for recording in MV of would be perhaps to save a little time at the end of the side of a disk; if you record in Multitrack it's direct to file, but in EV recording's still to a temp file that then has to be saved to a permanent one, by you, as a discrete operation. And if you are worried about cockups that might involve re-recording (which can be time-consuming) then save two copies and only work on one of them
>Can you type me out a quick list of how to record and what order I should do conversions from 32bit to 16.
>should I EQ and remove noise in 32bit or do it after I convert to 16?
The whole idea is that you only convert
to a 16-bit file once - just for the listening copy. So it's absolutely the last thing you do after
all processing.
For a side of vinyl, (an LP with several tracks) the usual - but not only - order to process is to record in EV, normalize the whole side to about -1dB or thereabouts and then do scratch removal, and after that, do noise reduction. The reason for normalizing the whole side first is that this way, you retain the relative mastering levels between the tracks - assuming that these decisions were actually made, of course. You don't
have to do that - you can split the tracks out first and deal with them individually if you want, normalizing each one separately. Your choice.
If you feel that you need to alter the EQ, or do any other sort of mastering, like harmonic enhancement (be careful with this; it's very easy to overdo it) or stereo widening, then do this after all of the click and noise processing - subjectively, a lot of clicking alters your perception of the sound, so you need to get that out of the way first. I wouldn't bother with loudness maximising or any other sort of compression - this gets pretty tiring to listen to, but you may like, under some circumstances, to add just a little reverb - often processing can reduce the effects of the original, so putting just a touch back is, on a lot of 'commercial' tracks, quite an acceptable thing to do IMHO.
Having done all of that, then the last thing you need to do is to make sample rate converted copies that you can write to a CD. This is the point where you get the option to dither, and whatever setting you choose, it's going to be a lot better than not choosing one at all. There's a lot of stuff in the old Syntrillium forum about the best dither to use for vinyl, but personally I don't think it makes a huge difference which noise-shaping option you use, although if I recall correctly, either C1 or C2 was popular. I use the dither provided in the full-blown iZotope Ozone, so for me it's not an issue.
There's stuff all over the forum about the correct process for creating CDs with or without gaps, etc so I won't rehash that. But for most vinyl work, the above will do. You might, according to what you end up processing, though, want to look up references to Younglove's decrackling script - this can often improve results, although we don't hear so much about it these days - I wonder why?
Of course, there's more - there's
always more. Most of it, though, is to do with dealing specifically with the vinyl, but you do also have other processing options that I haven't dealt with - mainly because they are slightly more esoteric. Options here include sum and difference processing for noise (aka Mid-Side) and using external processors like Har-Bal for more subtle corrections. But as I said, that's more esoteric and most of the time, you don't need it to get acceptable results.
* You have options here - quite often I take a chance and normalize a file before I save it, either as a working or a safe copy, as that's absolutely undo-able if it's 32-bit, with no loss at all.

Problem listening to/recording vinyl records

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