Problem opening from raw as smart object

After editing an image in camera raw, when I click open image CS3 opens a smart object. Is there a way to reset the default to open as a regular NEF file?
Thanks, John

Click on the Worksflow Options link at the bottom of the ACR window and then deselect Open in Photoshop as Smart Objects. Click OK then Click Done.

Similar Messages

Open raw as smart object using droplet

Hello everyone,
This is my first post so please be gentle
Rather than a droplet opening a raw file in a regular layer, is it possible to open the raw file as a smart object so that the object can be edited in Camera Raw later on?
Thanks for your time and festive wishes
Paul

Click on the Worksflow Options link at the bottom of the ACR window and then deselect Open in Photoshop as Smart Objects. Click OK then Click Done.

I am using PSE 9. I had no problem opening my Raw files from my Canon Rebel XT Now I have a Rebel 5ti and pse 9 won't reconize the Cr2 files

I am using PSE 9. I had no problem opening my Raw files from my Canon Rebel XT Now I have a Rebel 5ti and pse 9 won't reconize the Cr2 files

See this faq:
FAQ: Will Photoshop Elements work with my camera, or Why won't my raw files open?
That will explain why each new camera model uses its own raw format. (.CR2 does not indicate a format, only a Canon family of formats).
The first link tells you what version of camera raw is needed for your camera : https://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html
You need ACR 7.4
The second link tells you which ACR versions are supported by Elements versions Camera Raw-compatible Adobe applications
PSE9 supports version 6.5
Further down on that paper, you get links to download the free Adobe DNGconverter for Mac or Win.
This standalone software can batch convert a whole folder of raw files to the DNG raw file format that your present PSE9 can read.
Otherwise, you would have to upgrade to version 10 or later.

Opening DNG as a Smart Object into Photoshop CS5?

I am using a Windows 7 64 bit platform and CS5 64 bit. I have the most recent Camera Raw plug in for my Nikon D3100 camera. In Bridge you are supposed to be able to open a dng file in Camera Raw, make your corrections and then by holding the Shift key it should change the open file button to open it as a Smart Object. When I do that nothing opens in in Photoshop.
Any suggestions?
P

Jeff Schewe wrote:
pbfp wrote:
Can you tell me how to access the workflow settings?
Pretty simple (and the settings are sticky), open a raw image and in the center where the processing info is shown (lower center link) which acts both as an info readout AND a button to change the Workflow Options settings, click on this link...it'll give you a dlog to change the Workflow Settings.
Alter the settings and click Done (cancel doesn't work since it works as a Cancel).
Thereafter, unless you make changes, the Workflow Options should be sticky.
Thank you Jeff for the information.
Please let me know if you think the worflow settings are wrong: Here is how the workflow is currently set: Space: Adobe RGB 1998; Depth: 16bits/channel; Size 34072 x 4608 (14.2 MP); Resolution: 260 p/in.; Sharpen: None; Amount: none; The bix is checked to open in Photoshop as a Smart Object.
Now here is the thing. If I am in Bridge and double click on a dng file or right click on a selection of files and choose Open in Photoshop, it opens a Camera Raw window for the file/s and then if I click on the open objects button, it does open them in Photoshop as smart objects. The problem is that if I select, from the Bridge pop=up menu to open the selected file/s in Camera Raw, it is then that they do not get sent to Photoshop as smart objects. Nothing happens, they just don't open in Photoshop.
I am also having a very hard time sending dng files from Lightroom into Photoshop. So clearly there is something not "connected" properly. Or maybe it is not clearly, but I am supposing that there might be some general issue. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
P

RAW as Smart Objects - Lock Edge Pixel Opacity During Resize

I'm a professional fine art printer. I prepare images for large format printing, often starting from the original RAW files. Since the feature to open RAW files as Smart Objects in Camera Raw was introduced, I've been doing that, as it allows me to go back into the Raw file at anytime and re-tweak as I layer. I love this option and it is totally indispensable to my workflow.
HOWEVER, I find a serious flaw when resizing the image for final print, or even when resizing for web-output. If I do any interpolation (pixel resizing) up or down, the edge pixels are not locked in place, and treated as if they are a floating object, therefore the edge pixels usually show up at a lower opacity, (see attached image). This KILLS my workflow! It means I have to completely flatten my work and then resize, loosing all my groovy layers and the ability to go back into Camera Raw and make final tweaks while I make test prints and final decisions with the client by my side.
Even worse, when I apply the final print sharpening and flatten the file to send out, the edge transparency issue is compounded, and the sharpening adds an ugly halo around the whole image, BLAH!
What I need is a way for Smart Objects with the exact same pixel dimensions as the file to lock their edge pixels at the current opacity when resizing. In other words, I need Photoshop to treat the Smart Object as a true Background Layer for certain purposes, while still being able to go back into Camera Raw as I like. I notice the ability to lock transparency is gone on Smart Objects, which I'm sure is necessary for compositing, but not for what I'm doing at all.
Is there anyway this can be done in the current CS5 or 5.5 (haven't upgraded yet) that I'm simply missing? Can anyone from Adobe confirm that this is something you'll look into for me?
Thanks so much, absolutely loving Adobe products these days, you guys rock!
Best,
-B

I'm not going to say anything about the abysmal rendering of Vector Smart Objects in CS6 because it'll be beating a dead horse but I can explain the issues you see with measurements after scaling.
The slightly disproportionate scaling and half-pixel shift of the centre is unavoidable when it happens because the resulting Smart Object/Vector Smart Object must measure an integer number of pixels in height and width and be perfectly aligned to the document pixel grid. That's true in CS5 and CS6.
Say a SO/VSO originally measures 102 x 103 pixels and you scale it by 50%. The Options bar may say the result is 51 x 51.5 px but the result will really be 51 x 52 px, and therefore the new height will really be 50.49% of the old height.
The original SO/VSO is an even number of pixels wide and an odd number of pixels high, therefore its centre will be halfway down a pixel. The 50%-scaled SO/VSO is an odd number of pixels wide and an even number of pixels high, therefore its centre will be halfway across a pixel.

Possible bug when opening NEF-images as Smart Objects in PS CS3?

In architectural images I often apply lens corrections (Rotation, Distortion, vertical Transformation) to my RAW (NEF) images.
When I open such an image in PS CS3 as a PSD all is fine, that means all the lens correction is applied.
But when I open the same image in PS as a Smart Object the lens correction is not applied, i.e. PS shows the image with all LR-editing (such as color temperature, exposure, contrast, etc) except for the lens correction data.
What is wrong here?
I'm running LR 3.2 and PS CS3.
Thank you for your input.
ErnstK

Thank you for your answers.
It occurred to me - and Ian's post seems to confirm this - that PS CS3 is not fully compatible with LR3.2.
When I chose <Edit in CS3> (to open the image as PSD) I get the message that my Camera Raw plug-in is 4.6 and it gives me the choice to <Open Anyway> or to <Render by LR>. I usually chose the latter and I assume that this is technically an Export.
When I chose <Open as Smart Object> it just opens the image in CS3 without any dialog in between.
I guess it's time to upgrade to CS5.
Thank you all.
ErnstK

Import from bridge as smart object

is there a way to import images into images into photoshop as smart objects from bridge?
Thanks

This will allow you to open Bridge selected files in Photoshop as SO's
Once the script is installed, the command "Place Files as SO In Photoshop" will be available in the "Right Click Menu"

RE: Camera Raw and Smart Objects

Hello Everyone.
I have a question please.
Inside the Camera Raw 8.1, Inside the Workflow Options, I Checked the Box for Open In Photoshop as a Smart Objects.
I noticed Inside the Camera Raw, Open Image box turn to, Open Object box. I click on open, and It opened the Image as a Smart Objects Inside the Photoshop.
If I make any changes to the Image, and If I Double Click on the Smart Object, It will Open In Camera Raw again which Is good.
I also noticed If I do any changes to the Image Inside the Camera Raw to the Smart Object after clicking on Open Smart Objects I see the changes Inside the Photoshop also.
But If I do any changes to the Image Inside the Photoshop,and later I Double Click on the Image the Image opens Inside the Camera Raw, without any changes.
This Is my question: The Smart Object Image Is still a Raw Image ?
This Is my next question:
I know If I open a Raw Image Inside the Camera Raw, and If I click on Done, the image is still a Raw Image, which Is good, and If I click on Reset Bottom, It will reset It back. If I only change the White Balance and Click on Done and go back to the Camera Raw again, and I choose As Shot, the Image goes back the Original Raw file.
But If I do other changes such as the exposure, any color change, and click on done I can never go back to the original..
In the past month I been working with the Lightroom, and I noticed if I open a Raw image Inside the Lightroom, and do any changes to that Image,, any time I can click on the Reset and the Raw image goes back to its original.
I don't think we can do this with Camera Raw can we ?

Clear removes the Camera raw settings completely. You will not see the adjustment icon on the thumbnail in Bridge
Camera Raw Defaults will show the icon and double clicking the thumbnail will always open it in Camera Raw with the Default settings. The Default is "As Shot", which is why you don't see any difference. It's when you choose a Custom Default that you will. It will stay with the Camera Raw file.
See this article by Julienne Kost.
http://blogs.adobe.com/jkost/2009/10/setting_new_camera_raw_default.html
Another difference is with Jpegs. Open a Jpeg in ACR, make an adjustment, click "Done". Select "Camera Raw Defaults" and it will always open in ACR instead of Photoshop. Select "Clear" and it's a normal jpeg that will once again open in Photoshop.
Basically that's about all I know, I normally don't use ACR much.

Lightroom develop, Photoshop Raw and Smart objects

I understand that Lightroom's Develop function and Photoshop Raw adjustments are the same. So I adjust in either or. I can then open the photo as a smart object in photoshop. I can then make further adjustments as an adjustment layer. Which I think is the same as both Lightroom's Develop function and Photoshop Raw adjustments? I understand smart objects allows non destructive editing and smart filters.
SO my questions are: When would you not open the photo as a smart object? Surely I should always open the photo as a smart object? If I want to do any editing not allowed to smart objects such as clone stamp I can then create a layer and then apply the clone stamp to the layer, can't I?
Secondly, should I also convert all layers to smart layers or leave them as a normal layer.
Or thirdly, am I way off track?

If I want to do any editing not allowed to smart objects such as clone stamp I can then create a layer and then apply the clone stamp to the layer, can't I?
And that is where the underlying Smart Object starts losing (some of) its usefulness.
Because all those edits will be unaffected if you should choose to change the development settings of the embedded RAW.
Secondly, should I also convert all layers to smart layers or leave them as a normal layer.
What for?
Unless you want to non-destructively apply transformations or Filters or need several instances of something in one file it would mainly cause a drag on performance. (Edit: or bloat the files’s size)
But in those cases Smart Objects offer significant advantages.

Show movement in area from 30m video, smart objects - stack mode - range - 90k frames

Hey,
So I have a real challenge and need help figuring out the logistics of how to get it to work sensibly.
I'm trying to visually show the movement through a space (which will later be generated into a 3d form etc..)
To do this I think the best way would be to use photoshops smart objects - Stack modes - "Range"
A final image to show movement through the area.
Lighter where people walk more often and darker where people walk less often
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/Photosho...44D6937Ca.html
Range basically shows everything that has moved between the layers.
If you import a video frames into layers in photoshop, make them a smart object and apply the range stack mode it shows peoples movement and where they walk.
So thats what I'm going to do unless there is a better way to do this in something like after effects or premiere pro that I don't know about?
- I've done the photoshop way before and it worked very well - but on a very small scale.
I have a 30 minute video recording (considering longer but not sure if its viable), it was shot on a tripod and seems ok but can always do it again differently if needed!
The video was shot at 1920 x 1080 50fps which with 30 minutes (1800 seconds) makes 90,000 frames total for the video.
The problem
I need the info from ALL the frames - any less and the movement is too 'choppy' and isn't very useful.
So how can I make use of 90,000 frames/layers in a smart object for the range stack mode?!
I heard photoshop has a layer limit of 8k.
I have access to 6 high spec brand new mac pros (not 100% sure of the spec).
I'm thinking the solution would be use scripts and break it down into manageable chunks then flatten then merge them together.
Possible Solutions
1. Merging frames from each second or few seconds and then blending - not sure what blend mode I would use and also not sure if it would affect results
2. chop the image down into sections, process each section, flatten and merge together. for example split it into 4 quarters. - Don't think this will help, its more the limits in layers than anything else
3. Find an alternative method to deliver the image such as after effects.
on a side note I know I could have done a long exposure, done many before, but they don't really show movement, they simply blend the frames. The downside of long exposures for this exercise is that things could cancel each other out, for example; a man with a white top on walks past then a man with a black top walks past, these would cancel each other out to some degree.
The Range smart stack mode is brilliant because it directly shows movement and people don't cancel others out.
Help
Where can you help?
So basically if this is the correct way to do this then can anyone help with this and suggest any ways of breaking it down that wouldn't affect the final result?
Someone that knows more of how range stack mode works.
Correct me if I'm wrong with any of this and please let me know if you can help at all
Thanks!
Luke.
Context
For context the final thing has to be something that doesn't change in time, i.e. not a video but an image or model. This image will then be skewed a bit so its a plan view. It will then be used for another script in a 3d package like rhino which will create a number of points in space, the x and y axis being the location in plan view and the Z axis being the value of the pixel. I will then generate a solid form from the points and then smooth it out a lot so I should end up with a 3d wave model directly generated from the movement of people through the site. I will then architecturally design the form into spaces etc... This will form the surface of my final project
Heres an example of the first 500 frames (500 frames limit on video frames to layers import)
The footage isnt the best as I moved the camera slightly and the angle isnt amazing - ideally I want a plan view but will skew the final image to do this.

But I have a concern that if I break it down to 300 images (6 seconds of footage) then stack then flatten the stack until its dont the whole 30 mins then use these flattened ones to create a new stack it would affect results as it will then be working with images like the above.
That should be easy enough to test (if maybe not exactly proof) – for Range it seems to make no difference, for Variance it seems to do.
Also why use 16 bit image mode?
To reduce the accumulated effect of the necessary rounding of pixel values.

Trying to paste from Illustrator as smart object

Is there a trick to pasting a pixel-perfect vector image from Illustrator into Photoshop as a smart object, and not introduce a bunch of anti-aliasing that was not in the original file? My images are perfectly aligned with the pixel grid in Illustrator, and the pixel preview shows them correctly.
This page is helpful for dealing with vector shape layers, but the techniques he talks about don't work for smart objects. Strangely, he says he doesn't have a problem with smart objects, but I do.
Here is an example of what I'm talking about: a simple 13x13 pixel image in Illustrator turns to crap in Photoshop when pasted as a smart object (I know an image as simple as this could be pasted as a shape layer, but the real images I'm working with are much more complex, and cannot be pasted as simple shape layers).
I'm using Photoshop CS4.

Good news, everyone! With the release of Photoshop CC 2014, this is STILL broken.
Starting with an Illustrator document that is 50x50 px:
Then create a 50x50 square, at x=0 and y=0:
Create a 30x30 square over top of that, inset it (x=10 and y=10):
Use Pathfinder to punch out the front:
Paste that into Photoshop as a smart object. 100%x100%, at exactly x=0 and y=0.
Expected behavior:
The first ten rows and the first ten columns of pixels should have a solid color. The pixels in the 11th row or column should be 100% transparent, right? We punched a hole with precise coordinates, and have the Photoshop document matching the document size as well as accommodate exactly 100% of the object.
But instead, we get this:
Zooming in further, you can see the 11th pixel, whether looking at the rows or columns, has a slight bleed of the color and opaqueness from the pixel immediately above/left:
It is approximately 6% of the strength of the adjacent pixel that it is inheriting from. Interestingly, the effect can compound where a pixel is receiving color from BOTH the left AND the top. Also interesting: the effect does not occur in reverse. That is, opaque pixels do not "inherit" ~6% transparency from the top/left adjacent pixels:
So, my question to Chris, if he's still employed by Adobe, if this is intended behavior, how can I accomplish transparencies with solid lines that do not bleed? Like.. what is the workaround (that doesn't involve flattening or touching up with masks)?
-J

Problems opening up RAW files in the Adobe elements 12 editor

I just installed Elements12 on my Windows Desktop.
Operating System Windows XP SP3, Quad Core Processor 2.4GhZ, 3Gb RAM (based on these spec, I should be meeting minimum system requirements)
My camera's RAW format (Rebel 4Ti, CR2) is supported by the installed Camera RAW version (8.0.0.xx).
I had no problems opening up the RAW file into Camera Raw. I performed the basic adjustments and save the image as a .DNG file. No problems so far.
(1) I then tried to open the RAW file into the Elements Editor by clicking on "OPEN Image" in Camera RAW. I goes the error message that this action could not be completed due to a program error.
(2) I also tried to open the .DNG file directly. I got an error message telling me I had not enough RAM to complete this action (see above, I have 3Gb installed)
Can anybody advise me what to do, or what the problem is>
Thanks.

You might start looking for a new computer with windows 7 or 8 64 bit.
Not because windows xp is a bad operating system, but it's not supported by microsoft any longer and more and more software companies are dropping support for xp.
(even one of my favorite open source programs; Krita, dropped support for windows xp)
Plus, new programs seem to be more and more ram hungry and a 64 bit version of windows can make a world of difference.

Problems opening camera raw files in photoshop need help

I am having problems opening cr. files in photoshop and I'm not sure what to do. In case you couldn't tell I am really new to adobe products and am pretty clueless. Anyone know of a tutorial on this subject I would really appreciate any info. Yes I have done a search in help but it didn't cover the process very well.
Thanks for your help and understanding.

You might post in the Camera Raw Forum
http://forums.adobe.com/community/cameraraw
And »Chapter 4: Camera Raw« in the Help might be useful:
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/Photoshop/11.0/photoshop_cs4_help.pdf

Problems opening camera raw files.

I have tried to open camera raw files (CR2 and RW2) and get an error message that PSE9 can't open this file because it is the wrong type of file. I had thought that PSE9 could open and process Camera Raw. Will appreciate your suggestion for resolving this issue. Thanks.
Jack

Try opening directly from the folder rather than from Organizer
Right click on a file and choose Open With photoshop elements editor

Problem opening 40D RAW files

I have installed CS3 Extended and then downloaded and installed Camera RAW 4.2. In CS3 in the Help / about plug-ins option, Camera RAW 4.2 is named. I have also opened CS3 with the ctrl key depressed and cleared the cache / reset preferences.
I have CS3 installed on d: (d:\program files\adobe\... )
and Camera Raw.8bi is installed in
d:\program files\common files\adobe\plug-ins\cs3\file formats\
(This is the version from 29/08/07 10136kB)
In bridge I can see thumbnails of 350D files but not 40D files and I can't open the 40D files in Camera Raw (on the 350D files I can right click and "open in Camera Raw..."
The 40D files are the full size RAW at 9-14Mb rather than sRAW files.
I don't know where to go next to try to get the 40D files recognised. Any suggestions anyone?
Thanks

If it works on a Mac it must work on a PC...right Ab? (-;
I tried the 40d raws on my laptop and all is well so there must be a problem with ACR on my desktop. I have seen a few messages in that regard so will proceed down that path.
Thanks for motivating me to check further on my end Ab.
Jerry

Problem opening from raw as smart object

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