Recommend an analog to digital video converter

The video camera I own is analog but I want to transfer some home movies to my computer to make DVD's.
I don't need anything too fancy, we're talking home movies here.
Thanks.

I've used the entry level converter from Canopus, which works great for converting VHS home movies we made to DVD. You can see it at http://canopus.com/products/ADVC55/index.php .

Similar Messages

  • Using Canopus ADVC-100 Analog to Digital Video Converter

    Does anyone know if the Canopus ADVC-100 Analog to Digital Video Converter will work with FMLE 3.1?
    While FMLE recognize it as a video source?\
    Best wishes,
    Adninjastrator

    Thanks! That's just what I wanted to hear.
    Best wishes,
    Adninjastrator

  • Best Analog-to-Digital Video Converter?

    What's the best and most inexpensive analog to DV converter for importing video from a VCR onto my eMac?
    I'm using iMovie 4 if that makes any difference...
    Message was edited by: daftboychemist

    Faedo,
    Cheapest ways:
    1. Do you have a DV camera? If you do and it has "digital in" then you can take the output from your VHS player, route it through the camera and into your PC. The manual would explain if it is a feature.
    2. Secondly, search ebay for Dazzle Hollywood DV Bridge. This is a hardware converter that takes the analogue and does the conversion for you.
    Good luck.

  • Analog to digital video converter for DVD

    I have a DVD burner that came with my G5. I have a lot of VHS analog tapes that I would like to digitize and turn into DVDs. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive product(s) that will allow me to do that?
    Thank you.
    Power Mac 2.5GHz Dual   Mac OS X (10.3.7)  

    Faedo,
    Cheapest ways:
    1. Do you have a DV camera? If you do and it has "digital in" then you can take the output from your VHS player, route it through the camera and into your PC. The manual would explain if it is a feature.
    2. Secondly, search ebay for Dazzle Hollywood DV Bridge. This is a hardware converter that takes the analogue and does the conversion for you.
    Good luck.

  • USB for analog to digital video input?

    I have a USB-based Analog-to-Digital video converter that I used when I had my PC, for transferring old family video tapes to digital to burn DVDs.
    Can I use this with my Mac with iMovie 08), or will the Mac only accept digital video via a Firewire input?
    - Mike

    Mike Rivera wrote:
    ... Can I use this with my Mac with iMovie 08), or will the Mac only accept digital video via a Firewire input?
    no, you can not use that device, because usb-devices need specific 'drivers', which in most cases are of no avail for Mac ..
    but...
    many harddrive-camcorders are connected via usb, and DO work with Mac..
    if a device has both (miniDV camcorders), the video is only imported via firewire, the usb-connection is only in use for stills, those devices allow to record ...

  • Analog to digital video

    Does anyone know the quality difference between the analog to digital video converter in the Canon Elura 100 camcorder vs stand alone converters. I own an Elura and am converting older Hi8 video to my Mac and it is hard to find specs on these devices regarding resolution, sampling rate, etc.  Has anyone noticed any problems with video converted using the Elura ?

    Faedo,
    Cheapest ways:
    1. Do you have a DV camera? If you do and it has "digital in" then you can take the output from your VHS player, route it through the camera and into your PC. The manual would explain if it is a feature.
    2. Secondly, search ebay for Dazzle Hollywood DV Bridge. This is a hardware converter that takes the analogue and does the conversion for you.
    Good luck.

  • Digital Video Converter

    i'm a little confused about the difference between 'apple video adapter'
    http://store.apple.com/Apple/WebObjects/ukstore.woa/6224040/wo/WB5d0bwOOsXt2cAsU qR1RKWHU7b/3.0.19.1.0.8.25.7.11.5.3
    and a digital video converter -
    http://www.canopus.com/products/ADVC110/index.php
    i don’t want to mirror my ibooks monitor, but create an enlarged preview screen in fce
    can my ibook do this?
    i also have another problem. The Canopus converter uses firewire, and i only have one firewire port.
    To add, i want to upgrade from a usb2 external hard drive to a firewire! just because i've recently read that it will work better as a scratch disk.
    i seem to have too many devises and not enough ports.

    About the first question:
    - the Apple Video Adapter allows to use an external TV screen in place of your iBook screen. I have it but never use it since my video (iMac 20") is far better than a TV screen.
    - a Digital Video Converter, instead, converts DV video into analog video and viceversa. In your case you could plug the DV end (firewire) to your iBook and the analog end to a TV set, and use it to "Print to Video" the Canvas of FCE during editing or previewing.
    The main difference is that in the 1st case all you do on the iBook appears in the TV screen, in the 2nd case only the canvas output of FCE (or iMovie if needed).
    To edit video use the 2nd solution only; this has the advantage to show in real time, during editing, exactly the final result of your movie (colors, interlacing problems, etc.).
    You might have another option: most digital camcorders include a video converter and can be used in place of a stand alone Video Converter; if your digital camcorder allows it, use it in place of the Video Converter.
    About your second question, if you switch to a firewire external drive you should be able to daisy chain your camcorder (or digital video converter) to the external drive, so the single firewire port on the iBook should be enough. Just be careful, I know some combinations of camcorders/hard drives don't work well together when daisy chained... Not my direct experience, but I read it in these discussions.
    Piero

  • Import from digital video converter

    I am new to Mac and very new to iMovie.
    I have a mac Mini with OSX 10.4.11 and am using a DAC 200 Digital video converter to import video from a VCR (converting old tapes of the family) via Firewire.
    I turned on the Video converter and the camera import window opened automatically. I recorded the tape (about 2 hours) and clicked DONE at the end of the tape. iMovie then automatically generated thumbnails. This took about 45 minutes. When done, the imported video was only 42 seconds long. I repeated the process and the resulting video was only 1.9 seconds.
    What did I do wrong? I looked at all the settings and nowhere did i find something which seemed to be responsible for limiting the video length. How do I get the full video?
    and how do I prevent the automatic thumbnail generation?
    Many thanks
    Mark

    Welcome to the  Discussion Forums.
    Firstly I don't know anything about your converter, but wonder if it comes with any software or gives any indications of what format it converts the analogue to. It seems rather strange that it would take 45 minutes to create thumbnails for 42 seconds of video, take a look at your events folder (by default its in home/movies) and look for the actual imported files, check to see if they are really only 42 seconds long.
    imovie 08 is a very new product and can be a little quirky, ensure you are following instructions for your converter and pay particular attention to doing things in the right order.
    If you continue to have problems you could try capturing your video in imovie 6 or in QT pro.

  • Recommendations on Analog to Digital Converter

    First I want to say that many people recommend the "pass-through" feature of many MiniDV cameras. Mine does not have that feature. :-( I am using ADS Tech CapWiz Xpress DX2. It is a fine hardware/software program with the record to hard drive feature. But, it records in MPEG-2, which caused me to have those "red frames" show up in my video. I am using Premiere Pro to edit my video. I do have the option of saving the file as MPEG-1 and MPEG-4 (Divx). But, I'm not sure if I will have the same problem saving in one of those other file types. If that is not a good solution. What other Analog to Digital converters do you recommend for me. I don't want to buy another digital camera. But, a device that I can place between my VCR and laptop that does the job would be great. I prefer a device that can import and save files as the same type that Premiere saves to after "capturing" footage from a digital device. Anything from "Pinnacle" won't work. It won't install on my laptop for some reason.
    I am using Windows XP sp2, Duo Core processor, 2GB RAM, Production Premium CS3.

    Go to canopus.com as they have what you need ADVC 100, ADVC 50. Try ebay too. Nice converter long lasting, very easy to use. Stays outside the computer so no software to install, and works with every program and platform

  • Converting analog to digital video

    Does anybody know a cheap way to convert analog video (from a VHS) to digital video that can be burned on a DVD? A converter box is probably my best option as I have no digital camcorder, but I was looking for one under $150. So far the only ones I can find send the analog signal to the computer, where it is converted to digital by software. This would be fine, but the software is Windows only. I either need a converter box that converts the signal within the box and sends a digital signal to the computer, or one that comes with converting software for Mac. Preferably composite video (yellow, red, white), and preferably something that uses firewire, although if I have to I can use USB
    Thanks,
    Tom
    iMac G4 15-inch 800 Mhz   Mac OS X (10.3.9)   iMovie 3.0.3, Toast 7 Titanium, no iDVD

    Not sure what you mean by "breaks up in places".
    In iMovie4, the maximum clip size is 2 gigabytes. When importing from a camera or converter, iMove will just start a new clip ever 9 1/2 minutes (2 gb), but you don't lose a single frame.
    If you're getting irregular breaks, including the loss of video (may be hard to tell, if it's only a frame or two), you either have a cable problem (maybe just not plugged-in securely) or a VHS tape that is a bit out of synch. For that, you might need Time Base Correction, where the hardware will basically ignore the synch data on the tape and replace it with it's own. There are VCRs and video converters that have TBC built-in, but they're more expensive. There are also separate pieces of gear that do only that. I dunno whether digital cameras are available that do this.
    First, I'd see if it happens with other tapes, then try another VCR, before spending megabucks on more gear.

  • Universal analog to digital video converters

    I have an old Formac Studio converter that requires a $75 EPRON upgrade to work with the newer editions of iMovie; Therefore, I am considering just buying a new video converter to convert old video tapes to DVDs. I could only find a 2004 review, and the top pic was the Datavideo's DAC-100, which only states Mac PowerPC with iMovie 5 compatability (and Windows) on their website (no response yet from their tech support on Intel Macs and iMovie 6 compatabilities). As I have searched for other converters in the $100-200 price range, I can't find any that claim Intel Mac compatability. I don't want to purchase something with issues. Can anyone steer me to an affordable, quality video converter?
    MacBook Pro   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   Intel Duo

    Go to Apple's online store and search EyeTV Hybrid.
    Not only does this little item work with your MBP to tune NTSC abd ATSC broadcasts, it has a small port for line level video.
    Cost: $149.

  • Need recommendation for analog to digital converter

    I would like to transfer some VHS tapes to DVD. I know that a digital camcorder can be used as a pass-through for this, but unfortunately I don't have one. Can anyone recommend a basic converter box for converting VHS into a digital signal? I don't need anything fancy - just something to connect to the VCR and with a Firewire connection so I can import into iMovie or iDVD.
    Video transfer services in this area are outrageously expensive.
    Thanks,
    Doug Rheinheimer
    IMac 1.83 Ghz Intel Core Duo   Mac OS X (10.4.6)  

    While that's a great price, these are my trusted guys; along with B&H Photo in NYC.
    Bought my new camera from onecall.com this week. Sweet digicam. Of course Dell Home has it cheaper today But I like those guys at Onecall.
    G4 DP 1.25 GHz 2GB RAM 4 Drives 770GB Mac OS X (10.4.6) 2 SuperDrives (SL 8X & DL 16X)

  • Recommendations for Analog to Digital conversion

    I am seeking the help of all the Pros out there. I am moving my extensive analog music collection (LP/Cassette) to the digital world. Are there any recommendations for creating a CD-quality sound/volume level. I am currently using the standards (click/pop/hiss reduction, compressor and/or hard limiting). I am recording at 44.1/16 Bit and saving files in mp3 PRO-320 kbps for sake of storage. I welcome any assistance in regard to Plug-ins, equalization or other suggestions.
    Thank you in advance
    Paddy 41
    Pentium 4/3.2 GHz, 2.0 MB Ram, Soundblaster X-Fi Elite Pro, Windows XP PRO SP3, Adobe Audition 3.0, Sony PS-LX250H Turntable, Denon DRM-600 Cassette.

    >I am recording at 44.1/16 Bit and saving files in mp3 PRO-320 kbps for sake of storage. I welcome any assistance in regard to Plug-ins, equalization or other suggestions.
    You shouldn't save files as MP3s until all the processing you want to do has been done - this is a lossy format, and every time you open a file saved like this it gets re-decoded, and then re-encoded when you do a save. And the quality degeneration is progressive. And unfortunately, recording your files as 16-bit is also not going to be quite the thing to do if you are going to do any sort of amplitude processing at all, either, especially if you are recording at a lower-than-optimum amplitude, which is usually the case. 44.1k is fine, though!
    So, to get over the potential problems, the thing to do is to digitise your files as 44.1k 32-bit floating point, and until all processing is done, store them as Windows PCM wav files in this format, because that is uncompressed, which is what you need.
    If you want to reduce noise on cassette recordings, it's worth using a fairly high FFT setting, even though it takes longer to do the processing. Since most of the noise is not LF, this tends to work better, although there is also a case for doing the NR twice, once with a lower FFT setting and once with a higher one, but not trying to take out too much in one go.
    As for click reduction - well, you have to experiment. But letting the software determine all of the levels tends to give you a pretty good starting point. Another trick that's sometimes worth it is to transform your files temporarily to M-S stereo instead of L-R, and treat each channel separately - you generally get different levels of clicks in each, usually more in the S signal, whilst the M cancels out quite a few. And in general, the less clicks you can get away with processing, the better.
    Hard limiting? Never used it on a conversion like that at all, and wouldn't even consider it - transients are already likely to be distorted, and hard limiting them further seems like a
    very strange thing to do...
    Other tools that are useful, especially on cassettes are iZotope's Ozone (some of which is already in Audition) and HarBal. You can restore usually distorted frequency responses with the latter, and get a good average value automatically and easily. And judicious use of Ozone's enhancer can make them seem a lot less like the results came from a cassette...
    One of the useful things you can do with Ozone is to selectively widen parts of the spectrum. Since most records of music tend (for reasons of tracking) to have had the bass forced to be virtually mono, with subsequent similar consequences for other instruments with substantial LF content, it's worth expanding just about everything under about 250Hz, possibly by more than you might think.
    Generally, 'normal' EQ doesn't have a lot of use when processing vinyl, if it's relatively recent. And that generally means anything from the 60's onwards. If you think things are seriously wrong, the chances are that it's your monitors and environment that are misleading you. Just bear in mind that when this stuff was produced, it was all monitored in a professional environment - more so than it might be today, even.
    No doubt there will be a few other responses - I don't think that the foregoing is anything like complete, but is at least a start.

  • Simultaneous analog and digital video output?

    Does anyone know for sure whether the integrated DVI-I port on a MBP can (or cannot) generate analog (VGA) and digital (DVI-D) signals simultaneously?
    P.S.
    If you are curious why I am asking this question, it is because I would like to have my MBP displaying (same data) simultaneously on the Apple HD Cinema display (DVI-D) and a VGA projector in my office. And if the MBP can output both signals at the same time (i.e., using all pins on the DVI-I connector), then the following clever DVI-I to DVI-D/VGA splitter would do the trick:
    http://www.pccables.com/cgi-bin/orders6.cgi?action=Showitem&partno=01780&rsite=f .01780
    I am assuming if this works at all, then the MBP will dumb down to the resolution supported by the VGA projector on the DVI-D output (just as it does for the internal display).
    Tx, -CR

    Depending on which version of the MBP you have, this may work under Windows. But it does not work under OS X. There has never been driver support for it.

  • Canopus ADVC 110 Advanced Digital Video Converter

    Anyone out there have one of these? Anyone used it with iMovie? (And, is iMovie strictly for Macintosh? Because I have a Mac and don't know from Windows.)
    My story so far:
    1. I created some titles in iMovie for a video I'm making.
    2. I bought this high tech equipment in order to add music to the titles and transport the whole thing (titles and music together) to my camera to add them to the video. (In this case, the music is from the camera, but it doesn't matter; it can come from any source with the right sort of jack.)
    So far, so good. The equipment is connected, and when I follow instructions, all the right lights come on and everything goes fine...to a point. It says the data is supposed to be captured to my computer, but gives no clue HOW or WHERE this is to occur, or HOW I am to get it into iMovie if supposing I could find it. If the converter actually did anything, nothing new has shown up on the Hard Drive or the Desktop and I don't know where else to look for a file or whatever form this data is to appear in.
    I went to their official site and tried joining their forums, http://forum.canopus.com/ but they are snobs and won't accept registrations from any email addresses ending "@msn.com" or "@hotmail.com". These are the only two I have! I wrote the webmaster about this and if nothing else I suppose I can register under a friend's email address and then have them send me the information. I also wrote "sales" at the company regarding support. But I may get help there and I may not, so that's why I'm asking.
    Anyone have one of these? And anyone specifically use it with iMovie?
    That's all for now, thanks.

    At this point I'd be happy to get anything FROM the camera TO anywhere on the computer, let alone iMovie specifically, but nothing comes up on the screen such as "Save To" and then an option to import to iMovie--otherwise I would certainly do it. (I have no idea if anything I tried to transport ever made it to the computer in any form.)
    As to why I was trying to do audio only--I was trying to follow the directions to "Audio Capturing Mode" and a sidebar on the page says, "Caution: If video signal is input during the Audio Capturing mode, the subsequent operations can not be guaranteed."
    Well, since all I wanted was the audio anyhow (as the video will be the titles), and since they don't give a CLUE as to connections (ALL the instructions say are, "Play the audio data to capture"--not a THING about connecting it to the converter AT ALL, let alone where or how--now I guess they figure anyone stupid enough to play the audio into empty air without a connection deserves what they get) I plugged in the audio jack only--there is only ONE audio jack (on the camera) but TWO audio holes (on the converter), and they don't give you a CLUE as to which one is correct, so I just went eeny, meeny, miney, moe, and chose the red one (Audio in-R) as it's closest to the yellow one (Video--which I didn't connect because of the vague but seemingly dire threat at the side of the page). I put the jack in the hole on the front of the converter. If they want you to use the back one, they should SAY SO.
    Sorry, can't waste anymore time in guesswork without actual instructions from someone who knows how the confounded contraption is meant to work. Thanks for the answer.

Maybe you are looking for