Recommendations for choral sounds?

Hi everyone,
Anybody have any recommendations for a half-way decent choral sound? I don't necessary want to spend $600 on EW Symphonic Choir, but want a step up from the 3 or 4 goofy things I've got right now. I've heard bad things about the GB Voices Jam Pack... any suggestions?
Thanks!
Dogmael

Try the IK Multimedia Philharmonik, it's loaded up with a variety of sounds. It is supposed to be aone stop shop for orchestral needs. In fact it has some strengths and weaknesses as you would expect- the piano is terrible but the strings are great.
It also comes with some choir settings, and they are OK, but you'll be limited to a few expressions of course (male and female "ahs" and "ohs" and such) but overall I think it's a good package for the money. It would be a step up from any Garage Band thing I would say. Anyway, if you aren't certain that chorale will be a big part of your setup, it would be a fun thing to try. And if it didn't work out you would have a lot of other sounds that are really good at your disposal.

Similar Messages

Recommendation for good sound card for test & measurem

There are quite a lot sound card based oscilloscope, spectrum analyzer, signal generator softwares, such as multi-instrument?. An ordinary?sound card?can only measurement signal within 20Hz~20000Hz range (with flat frequency response),? I would appreciate it very much if anyboday here could recommend a sound card that can extend the above frequency range as?wider as possible, towards both the lower end and higher end.

Such software is pure bullhit, because every soundcard has its flaws, wich will render the results unuseable. And the next point: most soundcard- drivers and the OS itself are changing the signal in a different manner. Maybe vollume boost, or reverb effects, some signal changing to get better results in terms of audio quality and signal clarity, and so on. Get a Oscilloscope. Maybe you will need to sell your house for a good one, but this is the only good solution ^^?The best soundcard for this purpose is not a real soundcard, but a recording card. There are some expensi've models out there, especially terratec or EMU. (I dont know really if EMu is selling REAL recording cards)Message Edited by fffcmad on 0-5-20082:24 PM

I need audio system recommendations for my iMac.

I have a large iTunes library on my iMac and currently listen to it through a Yamaha receiver with two Cerwin-Vega speakers and an Infinity sub. Although the receiver is designed for surround sound, I just use the stereo mode for music. It puts out 130 watts per channel although I use it in a small 12 x 14 office in my home. I would like to upgrade my sound system for the Mac if there is something available that is just killer for this application.

Yes, a dedicated stereo integrated amplifier would have discrete electronic components, as opposed to the "chip" circuitry in your Yamaha surround receiver. I myself use a Denon discrete integrated amplifier and it sounds far more lifelike and images far better than the Denon receiver it replaced. There is a limit as to how far you can improve your sound though in that iTunes songs are recorded and played at less than CD quality and there is no way around that without directly ripping from CD's using a lossless format. So, to sum up, yes you have definite possibilities for improving your listening experience. And I might recommend if you are interested in saving money that you research on http://www.audiogon.com for quality used components sold by other audiophiles who themselves are upgrading. I've purchased and sold on the site for years. It's the eBay of audio only components.
And, Yes, to your Question 1.
Hope this helps
Message was edited by: Radiation Mac

Recommendations for Analog to Digital conversion

I am seeking the help of all the Pros out there. I am moving my extensive analog music collection (LP/Cassette) to the digital world. Are there any recommendations for creating a CD-quality sound/volume level. I am currently using the standards (click/pop/hiss reduction, compressor and/or hard limiting). I am recording at 44.1/16 Bit and saving files in mp3 PRO-320 kbps for sake of storage. I welcome any assistance in regard to Plug-ins, equalization or other suggestions.
Thank you in advance
Paddy 41
Pentium 4/3.2 GHz, 2.0 MB Ram, Soundblaster X-Fi Elite Pro, Windows XP PRO SP3, Adobe Audition 3.0, Sony PS-LX250H Turntable, Denon DRM-600 Cassette.

>I am recording at 44.1/16 Bit and saving files in mp3 PRO-320 kbps for sake of storage. I welcome any assistance in regard to Plug-ins, equalization or other suggestions.
You shouldn't save files as MP3s until all the processing you want to do has been done - this is a lossy format, and every time you open a file saved like this it gets re-decoded, and then re-encoded when you do a save. And the quality degeneration is progressive. And unfortunately, recording your files as 16-bit is also not going to be quite the thing to do if you are going to do any sort of amplitude processing at all, either, especially if you are recording at a lower-than-optimum amplitude, which is usually the case. 44.1k is fine, though!
So, to get over the potential problems, the thing to do is to digitise your files as 44.1k 32-bit floating point, and until all processing is done, store them as Windows PCM wav files in this format, because that is uncompressed, which is what you need.
If you want to reduce noise on cassette recordings, it's worth using a fairly high FFT setting, even though it takes longer to do the processing. Since most of the noise is not LF, this tends to work better, although there is also a case for doing the NR twice, once with a lower FFT setting and once with a higher one, but not trying to take out too much in one go.
As for click reduction - well, you have to experiment. But letting the software determine all of the levels tends to give you a pretty good starting point. Another trick that's sometimes worth it is to transform your files temporarily to M-S stereo instead of L-R, and treat each channel separately - you generally get different levels of clicks in each, usually more in the S signal, whilst the M cancels out quite a few. And in general, the less clicks you can get away with processing, the better.
Hard limiting? Never used it on a conversion like that at all, and wouldn't even consider it - transients are already likely to be distorted, and hard limiting them further seems like a
very strange thing to do...
Other tools that are useful, especially on cassettes are iZotope's Ozone (some of which is already in Audition) and HarBal. You can restore usually distorted frequency responses with the latter, and get a good average value automatically and easily. And judicious use of Ozone's enhancer can make them seem a lot less like the results came from a cassette...
One of the useful things you can do with Ozone is to selectively widen parts of the spectrum. Since most records of music tend (for reasons of tracking) to have had the bass forced to be virtually mono, with subsequent similar consequences for other instruments with substantial LF content, it's worth expanding just about everything under about 250Hz, possibly by more than you might think.
Generally, 'normal' EQ doesn't have a lot of use when processing vinyl, if it's relatively recent. And that generally means anything from the 60's onwards. If you think things are seriously wrong, the chances are that it's your monitors and environment that are misleading you. Just bear in mind that when this stuff was produced, it was all monitored in a professional environment - more so than it might be today, even.
No doubt there will be a few other responses - I don't think that the foregoing is anything like complete, but is at least a start.

Recommendations for Dry String Samples

anyone have any recommendations for dry string samples, something kind of low budget? seems most strings sound too lush to my ears- maybe I am missing something in Logic to get this sound?
Message was edited by: Weslie

Dry vs lush implies questions of reverb and room size, the size of the ensemble, the amount of vibrato the players are using to be expressive. Many string patches use slow attack and release times and are intended for pads (remember the 80's?) which you would consider too lush for authentic string writing. Solo strings, which combined would create the sound of a quartet, are an altogether different sound and can also be either dry, lush, and everything in between. Or you might like string ensemble sounds that use fewer players, aren't too reverberent, have reasonable quick attacks and not too much vib. Even if you don't need big and lush, there's still a very wide assortment of string sounds you'd need if you want to incorporate strings into your music.
For $400-500 consider the Vienna Special Edition, which includes all orchestral instruments, and can be expanded incrementally with more sounds and articulations. LASS is indeed great, but any small subset of their library is liable to be (very) hit or (very) miss, depending on the music at hand. For the same $$$, Kontakt is your best bet. Comes with a wide variety of good string sounds and articulations, as well as a wide variety of everything else. And it's a very flexible sampler/sound mangler, reading Akai and Giga collections you might have laying around.

Hardware Advice for measuring sound

Hello,
My masters project has taken a turn and now I am using the speed of sound.
There are two arguments that have arisen. One from my supervisor who says that LabVIEW
is used in industry and that it is a real-time environment, meaning I would be
able to measure the time taken for sound to travel x metres (minimum 0.5m and 7m
maximum).
On the other hand the Labview guru on
campus has suggested that using a USB interface, and the fact that Windows XP
is not a real time environment would not return true times and there are other priorities
that Windows has to handle firs giving erroneous times.
Which argument is true, and which solution should I take.
Firstly, should I using a microcontroller with dedicated timers to time the
sound by starting a counter at 1.2MHz and take start value and finish value and
then working backwards to get the time, with the obvious hard part of setting
up communications with Labview through serial.
Or should I purchase some sort of serial/USB interface for Labview that would
be able to handle the job. If this option is best suited, are there any recommendations
for hardware? I'm using the SCB-68 which can only be used on a desktop
computer. I need something that is either Serial or USB as the final product
will be controller via laptop.
Cheers

Hello,
I'm just testing if I can use an external oscillator to timer. I'm using a NI-PCI 6229 and a SCB-68 interface box. I'm having trouble with the connections. Any advice for using the DAQx?
The is not wiring diagram, so I’m not sure where to put the signal in.
Cheers
K

Which antivirus product is recommended for the iMac?

Which antivirus product is recommended for the iMac?

OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it updated with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "speed up", "clean up", "optimize", or "accelerate" your Mac. Without exception, they will do the opposite.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources. Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iTunes or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose. Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Disable Java in Safari > Preferences > Security.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
Block browser popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > and check "Block popup windows":
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but popups have devolved to become a common means to deliver targeted advertising that you probably do not want.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever see a popup indicating it detected registry errors, that your Mac is infected with some ick, or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. To date, most of these attempts have been pathetic and are easily recognized, but that is likely to change in the future as criminals become more clever.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind.

Any recommendations for virus protection software.

Looking for recommendation for virus, malware protection for iMac running Maverick

Here it is again.
Many third party "anti-virus" programs only cause misery, and account for the vast majority of user-inflicted Mac problems reported on this site.
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it updated with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "speed up", "clean up", "optimize", or "accelerate" your Mac. Without exception, they will do the opposite.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources. Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iTunes or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose. Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Disable Java in Safari > Preferences > Security.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
Block browser popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > and check "Block popup windows":
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but popups have devolved to become a common means to deliver targeted advertising that you probably do not want.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever see a popup indicating it detected registry errors, that your Mac is infected with some ick, or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. To date, most of these attempts have been pathetic and are easily recognized, but that is likely to change in the future as criminals become more clever.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind.

Recording Interface Recommendations for 10.7.5?

I recently upgraded to 10.7.5 (IMax). My M-Audio recording interface does not have an upated driver (which was causing output sound issues), so I'm on the hunt for a new interface. Any recommendations for a small, desktop unit for $200 or less? I don't need a big complex rack unit, but would like quality recordings of guitar and voice. I use garage band and logic pro 9.
Thanks much!

Deleting Safari and reinstalling it will probably not solve your problem. If you have not deleted Safari yet, please do not do that!
First, just try holding down the shift key while opening Safari. This will prevent it from trying to open any pages that were open when it last quit. Your problem could be nothing more than Safari re-opening a page that was open from a previous browsing session.
If that doesn't work, see:
Eliminating browser redirects and advertisements
Go through all the tests there, and if they indicate that you may have adware installed, proceed to the adware guide it refers you to.
If you have already deleted Safari, just hold down command-R at startup to enter recovery mode, then reinstall the system. Installing right on top of your existing system will replace any items that may have been deleted or damaged, and will leave all your other apps and documents alone.

Recommendations for audio interface with new mac pro to avoid latency?

Hi friends,
I have a new Mac Pro on order for editing video in FCPX, but Presonus says my older Presonus Firebox won't work with Mavericks and the new Mac Pro. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement?
I only use the interface to drive 2 powered expternal speakers and a headset, so I don't need something super sophisticated.
As I read about units, almost all come with USB 2.0 connections. But the new Mac Pro only offers USB, Thunderbolt 2, Dual Gigabit Ethernet, and HDMI 1.4 Ultra HD inputs. If I can't find a fairly inexpensive audio interface with USB 3.0, I'd have to go through another connection to get into the Mac Pro.
The key for me is to make sure and avoid latency, a critical issue for editing video.
Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks. Duncan

Thanks Mark and Smokerz,
Your point about USB2 working in USB3 ports is something I wasn't aware of. That opens a lot of doors for me. And I'll look into the Yamaha sound board as one possibility.
Thank you both for helping me.
Duncan

Recommendations for speaker systems for DVD player/recorder

I'm getting a DVD recorder soon and I hope to get some recommendations on suitable Creative speaker systems.
The room is fairly big but the TV area is rather confined..so i prefer a set whose speakers are not too big or bulky or numerous (i think i'll stop at 5.1 since i have limited space to put the speakers). Budget is flexible, but of course the cheaper the better (hopefully under $350).
The TV sounds good when watching TV programs but it reproduces an unbalanced ratio of muddy dialogue and loud sound effects when playing back DVDs. I end up having to crank up the volume so high to hear what the characters are saying, and of course, the background audio gets boosted way loud as well. So my main consideration is reproducing clear speech and dialogue and crisp (not overly loud) background audio - any recommendations for this?
Which models have an optical/coaxial input? Can i just hook up the speakers to the optical/coaxial or RCA outputs of the DVD recorder/player since most models have in-built DTS decoders? Which are the least problematic models?
Thank you.

I think I have the same question more or less. I bought a cheap Best Buy memorex speaker docking station and I need a male to female IPOD cable so that I can Play the radio and charge the IPOD at the same time as well of course have the head phone jack plugged into the Line In that acts as the antenna.
So if I had the Male to Female cable My dock would charge and the cable to the line in acts as a Antenna. I think this makes sense..

Recommendations for Apple TV Speakers?

I've been using a Klipsch iFi as the speakers for my Apple TV. Great sound. But the dock assembly unexpectedly quit yesterday.
Anyone have recommendations for a speaker system to use with the ATV? The iFi had its own remote for controlling volume, which is nice since there doesn't seem to be any way of controlling movie volume with the supplied Apple remote.

there are three options as i see it.. so in order of quality
1) *powered/computer speakers* is what you have.. you kinda plug everything into a subwoofer that is attached to left and right speaker.. you can also get surround sound version of these as well
2) *all-in-one surround sound systems*.. are sold as a complete package and sometimes called "surround system in a box". usually have at the centre a dvd player that can decode the surround sound and the speaker attached to it... some are "3.1" and have left, centre and right speakers + a subwoofer.. most are "5.1" and have left, centre, right, left rear, left rear and a subwoofer (the subwoofer is the ".1").
actually some new ones just have a subwoofer and a strip of small speakers in an flat enclosure that get can be mounted on a wall just below the TV.. sometimes these will have the decoding done in the subwoofer sometimes the strip of speakers enclosure.
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=1055 1&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665793572
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=1055 1&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665361523
3) AV Receiver.. "5.1" or "7.1" the receiver connects to the speakers that are bought separately.. you can pipe the video and audio from a many of devices through it to the speakers and to your TVs.. it's kind of a swiss army knife
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=1055 1&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665944651
a surround system can add a lot to the enjoyment of a movie since the sound can be use to mimic movement of things with sound from anywhere to anywhere in the room (e.g. the ham that shoot into B.O.B. from over your right shoulder in Monsters vs Aliens), adds atmosphere.. e.g. the echo of a large empty room or a wind going past your right ear etc.. all these thing are lost with a traditional two speaker stereo system.. also it's how the director intended the movie to be enjoyed.. i think it adds a lot..

Book recommendation for Content Networking?

Hi,
Is there any books outhere on cisco CSS, GSS for a good readup?
I know there's a whole lot of docs fr univercd, but was wondering if there are actually books on these products?
Thanks.

Thank you for your book recommendation. This sounds like an excellent book for learning Flash. From the description on Amazon, the emphasis of this book is on learning Flash with just a little information about ActionScript 3. Perhaps there is enough ActionScript 3 information in this book to get a good foundation with ActionScript, to learn the terminology and syntax?

Book recommendation for newbie

I know the basics of Flash CS4, and would like to extend my knowledge by learning about ActionScript 3. My background is in graphic design (not math, not programming). Can anyone help with a book recommendation that would get me started with the basics of ActionScript 3?

Thank you for your book recommendation. This sounds like an excellent book for learning Flash. From the description on Amazon, the emphasis of this book is on learning Flash with just a little information about ActionScript 3. Perhaps there is enough ActionScript 3 information in this book to get a good foundation with ActionScript, to learn the terminology and syntax?

Recommendations for Bluetooth headphones?

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good set of Bluetooth stereo headphones? I am looking mainly to listen to music and watch videos but would make an occasional call with them. I purchased the Plantronics backbeat and while the sound quality is fine they just don't get loud enough. I have read similar complaints about the Jaybird freedom. Any suggestions?
Thanks

yup.. this was added to Leopard 10.5... 10.5 is REALLY flaky though (all around, not bluetoothwise)... 10.5.2 is what you need.
but with 10.5.2 installed i use the Motorola MOTOROKR™ S9 with a Belkin USB bluetooth adapter (class 1 so get 300 ft range)... works really well... good for exercise 'cause they are light and they stay in your ears securely and can take sweat etc and they are sound isolating and have two sizes of in ear thingies for different sized ears.
plus have Advanced Audio Distribution Profile (A2DP) and Audio Video Remote Control Profile (AVRCP). AVRCP lets you control iTunes and volume from the head phones... back, forward, play, pause, volume up and down.. they are really cool and work perfectly.
http://direct.motorola.com/ens/s9/Headset_Home.asp

Recommendations for choral sounds?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for