Refurb?

Would it be safe/worth it to buy a refurb MacBook Pro? With AppleCare of course.
And lets say I do get a refurb 17" MBP and I get it and something is wrong with it such as the Battery won't charge, screen is screwed up, and/or it over heats. Apple would fix it right? And if it comes to replacing the laptop would they replace it with a brand new one (same specs) or would they replace it with a refurb?

Yes they will I bought a 15 inch macbook pro and they replaced my screen for uneven brightness and dead pixels and replaced my battery when it started going out on me. Warranty is just like new one and I guess which ever you chose its a gamble since nothing is without flaws. I guess your advantage of buying at apple store you can always take it back in 14 days. Since I had the repairs done its been great>

Similar Messages

  • Bought iPhone 5S refurb from service provider 'as new'. After restore multiple Apple ID's are offered,1 of which belongs to me, the others have never been used on my phone. iCloud restore from backup is now permanently incomplete. Ideas?

    There are several factors involved here, I shall explain them as best I can and will include all details, regardless of immediate relevancy:
    In August of last year I purchased a new MBP15", and 2 months later I purchased an iPhone 5s refurb (unused) from my service provider (02), there were no issues connecting the two or with iCloud. Fast-forward several months to February I had a liquid spill on my laptop that rendered it unusable. After a month my insurance came through and I received a new laptop, and in order to successfully pair my replaced MBP with my 5S I performed a restore on my iPhone after backing up my data on iCloud.
    When I turned on my iPhone after the restore, I was presented with the usual set-up process: wi-fi connection was completed without issue, as was enabling location services, entering my Apple ID and choosing my selected back-up.However, I was subsequently presented with an option to transfer purchases from an email address have never used and didn't recognise, so I declined. Immediately afterwards, a second Apple ID (again that I neither used nor recognised) popped up for the same reason, I declined, a third unknown Apple ID popped up, I declined again. After declining the three previous IDs, the old email address for my ID was presented to me, I entered my password to see what happened and it declined, saying 'the email is no longer valid.
    After this, the restore continued, I finished setting up my iCloud with my correct ID. Since then (about a week ago) my iPhone has been unsuccessfully trying to 'restore from iCloud Backup', and every time I exit & re-enter a Wi-Fi zone I am presented with the same series of incorrect Apple ID's

    The answer is very simple: You were not the original owner of the phone. Target sold you a phone that had been returned. You can verify the date of the original sale here: Apple - Support - Check Your Service and Support Coverage. I suspect you will find that the warranty expiration date is not one year from the date that you bought it.

  • Confirmation of AT&T iphone refurb warranty coverage vs. new iphone

    I spoke with an AT&T agent today and she provided the following information with regard to warranty info when choosing a refurb or a new iphone 4S.
    Jemalyn D.: Thank you for the information.
    Jemalyn D.: Sure, not a problem on that one.
    Jemalyn D.: To clarify, you would like to know the warranty of purchasing a refurbished iPhone 4S device with AT&T. Is that correct?
    Me: yes
    Jemalyn D.: Refurbished devices come with a 90 day manufacturer's warranty, while new devices come with a 1 year manufacturer's warranty.  Our standard 30-day return policy applies on both new and refurbished models.  You also have the availability to extend the warranty by adding the AppleCare Protection Plan or adding the Mobile Protect iPhone insurance to your equipment.
    Me: where do i buy the mobile protect insurance
    Jemalyn D.: On the other hand, please be informed that there is no information on when is the exact date where the phone was originally purchase but the return and exchange policy of AT&T will only require 30 days, so therefore, the device only have 30 days or less than 30 days owned by the previous holder.
    Jemalyn D.: AT&T offers the AppleCare Protection Plan for iPhones to all customers purchasing a new or refurbished iPhone.  This additional Plan is a one time fee of $69 and will extend the warranty for an additional year. The Protection Plan extends the included hardware repair service coverage to two years from the warranty start date.  The  AppleCare Protection Plan can only be purchased on new iPhone devices or during the sale of a refurbished iPhone device in Premier.  To add this plan to your order, simply scroll down to the bottom of the Accessories page and change the quantity next to the AppleCare Protection Plan to 1 and click Add to Cart. 
    Me: so essentially i could purchase the refurb and add the extra care for 69 for a total of 90 days + 1 year of protection from the date of purchase?
    Jemalyn D.: Yes, that is correct.
    Me: ultimately would i get the longest amount of coverage buying a new phone?
    Jemalyn D.: Please be informed that you also have 30 days to add this "insurance" feature on your iPhone device.
    Me: okay that is good to know
    Jemalyn D.: Yes, you are correct. Purchasing a new phone will definitely get the longest amount of warranty coverage.
    Conversation took place at 9:30AM on Wednesday, April 25, 2012

    Thanks for sharing.
    Did you have a question for this user to user technical support forum?

  • Is there a huge difference between the £999 Imac to purchase on store and a £300 refurb G5 model?

    Is the difference between these machines so huge? I can see how certain specs are double but does that = double the speed? triple the price? I tried asking an apple support tech via the online chat and was simply told
    "The technology of the newer machines is awesome"
    If I walk into a car showroom, and I say "My Ford model bla has this engine, and these parts, I can make it go this fast" the sales-rep can turn around and say "Ahh but the new ford mondeos can travel up to XYZ" I don't get told "Well that car is old, you should buy our new one because I think it's awesome"
    Considering the apple G5 is ONLY 5 years old, It seems to be hard to pin down the difference in speed/performance compared to the other companies.
    Is someone with more technical gifting than I able to look at the 2 specs and say "This machine on average will be 500% faster" or "Actually, it will only be 40% faster".
    £300 from a refurb dealer.
    Model M9591LL/A
    G5 Powermac Dual Core 2.3
    250GB Hard drive
    2Gb of ram
    Apple Pro keyboard
    Optical Mouse
    Leopard 10.5 and iLIfe 08
    DVDRW (Superdrive)
    256MB Video card with DVI / DVI$
    £999 from apple store for an Imac
    2.5GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i5
    4GB 1333MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2x2GB
    500GB Serial ATA Drive
    AMD Radeon HD 6750M 512MB GDDR5
    Apple Magic Mouse
    Apple Wireless Keyboard (British) & User's Guide (English)

    Great news, thanks!
    You can look up those stats on any model you might consider here...
    http://www.everymac.com/systems/by_capability/mac-specs-by-machine-model-machine -id.html

  • Don't buy a refurb from Apple!!

    Not long after we got our dual G4 1.25Ghz, it started locking up and failing with kernel panics, although at the time, only once or twice within the 90 day warranty period (no reason to call tech support can be told to rebuild the desktop, or run limited analysis software). Over the past two years it has gotten progressively worse - now at 4-5 times a day at least. It recently crashed the system drive and corrupted it beyond repair. I replaced it and rebuilt the system from scratch. However, the lockups and kernel panics are back. I am positive now it is a bad logic board (since everything else has been replaced), and it was bad from the very start since the problem has always been the same, but increasing in frequency (probably the reason it went to refurb to begin with, but was not thoroughly tested and assumed to not be a problem, and resold even with faulty hardware). The problem I am convinced is USB specifically - we always had problems with USB Zip drives (slow read/write); and often locks up just typing email; recently ejecting a SanDisk USB flash drive locked up Finder.
    There is no tie to any specific application - it has locked up sitting idle with no applications running. This occured with OS 10.x all the way up to 10.2.8 (current). We've tried new memory, swapping memory slots, now a new system drive with a completely rebuilt system - same problem.
    Why didn't we call for support before now? Because we thought it was software, OS, or memory related, and a call to hear just that would be expensive, and useless. Time is the proof however, and the fact that it is a hardware error that alludes hardware system checks (which aren't very thorough to begin with), and has occured since we got it, leads us to place the blame with Apple's quality control and refub program. As a former development engineer, I have the knowledge and skills to determine this.
    Don't buy a refurb from Apple - they aren't thoroughly tested and will leave you with an expensive boat anchor, or repair (e.g. replacement) bill. I know of other users with similar problems with refurbs, and the cost to repair is 1/3 the cost of new computer ($700 for the logic board for this machine, even at 2 years old) - probably a PC for us this time unless Apple is willing to admit their poor quality control and give us a serious deal on a Mac - i.e. replace this one. A comparable PC would be 3 times faster, and a new motherboard would cost me $150 or less to replace if necessary - we have four in our office suite and have never had the problems we've had with this Mac.
    I know this will be an unpopular post, and probably deleted for censorship, but given that reaching Apple by phone is costly (i.e. I have to buy a service plan just to get them to fix their error), this is our only recourse - public awareness - here and on other professional product forums where the PC vs. Mac question arises daily. Sorry Apple, you've lost our company's business, but feel free to try and win it back with a very, very generous offer.
    We've tried to make the system work since fixing it would be at our cost, even though it was Apple's fault for selling it as a "working" system. However, lockups are too frequent, and data loss is a significant risk. We have installed a data drive for all important data - only apps go on the system drive, just in case - we also backup to CD, but unfortunately the combo drive is also gone - won't write DVDs, and CDs are unreliable).
    If this post gets deleted, we will know where Apple stands and will pursue other options to resolve Apple's poor service. It just goes to show that the larger the company, the less they care about customers, and the more poor products and service become measured in terms of acceptible loss, rather than quality performance.

    You sound almost like a PC Troll, but just in case you are, in fact/reality a bonafide Mac user with some serious issues, I will try an attempt some directions to help you with your seriously ailing Mac.
    One thing I would like to know is why you didn't purchase AppleCare on a Mac you know was a Refurb. Does Apple offer AppleCare for refurb Macs? Seems to me that purchasing extra warranty protection would be a "no-brainer". Why would you not do this, if available, is beyond me. But...
    You also seem new/novice to Macs despite some of the things you mentioned that you attempted to replace or upgrade.
    I am going on my own assumption that you do not have a problem at all with the logic board and that many of your Mac's ills and issues are other hardware, RAM, software and data/software corruption related.
    OS X and your Mac need some periodic maintenance in order to run fairly worry-free. If disk utilities and maintenace routines aren't done say once or twice a month or so or do not get done at all, your Mac may start do lots of unexpected things
    First thing I would do, if still possible ,is back up all of your important data to either CD/DVD or an external drive (preferrably a Firewire drive).
    OS 10.0,x & 10.1.x were on some level "Beta" software releases that still had a lot of bugs and problems in the OS.
    10.2.x thru 10.4.x are, for a large part been very stable.
    Easiest and least expensive to replace first is your Mac's PRAM battery. This is a half-length size AA battery that stores basic parameters of your Mac's system. When the voltage drops in this battery over time, all sorts of funky things can happen with your Mac.
    Next thing to replace is RAM. I know you've done this but newer Macs and, especially, OS X is very,very picky about the RAM that is installed.
    Also, OS X needs 512 MB minimum for it to function adequately. 1.0 GB of RAM or more is really desirable for best OS X performance.
    Bad or wrong spec RAM can also wreak havoc and cause constant system crashes and/or startup/shutdown issues and drive issues, as well
    The specs for RAM on the G4 MDD are
    PC2700 DDR SDRAM, 2.5v, unbufferred, non-parity, 184 pins.
    Try purchase this RAM from this site
    http://www.crucial.com
    This is a reliable seller of memory for Macs.
    While you purchase these, you really need to invest and purchase 3rd part disk diagnostic software to use other than Apple's own built-in Disk Utility software.
    Recommended Mac Disk utilties are MicroMat's TechTool Pro 4.x and Alsoft Disk Warrior. As an optional utility to purchase, search for a additional disk maintenance utility such as MacJanitor, OnyX or Cocktail.
    Not sure what to tell about your Combo Drive, though.
    It could be on the "out"
    If you are not adept at installing computer hardware, yourself, you could have an Apple Store or Authorised Apple reseller install a new Mac/OS X compatible (bootable) internal combo drive or upgrade to a Mac/OS X compatible (bootable)SuperDrive.
    If you are fine with computer hardware installation, you can purchase a new internal drive yourself from this source
    http://www.macsales.com/
    You can also purchase an Mac/OS X compatible (bootable) external FireWire Super Drive from the above source and use this with your Mac instead of replacing and installing new internal.
    You're are going to need a reliable drive to be able to re-install the OS and to re-install apps, so this seems to me to be a next priority to purchase.
    Next disconnect all peripherals other than monitor,keyboard, mouse, and usable CD/DVD drive of choice. Also, shutdown Mac and remove any added USB/Firewire PCI cards.
    (I know this throwing a lot more money at the problems you've been having, but I feel this way eveyone involved here with your issues will be working with a clean slate with known hardware that is known to work specifically with Macs.)
    Restart the Mac.
    We are going to erase and wipe your drive clean and reinstall the OS from scratch.
    You mentioned you are on OS 10.2.x Jaguar.
    Since we are essentially stating your Mac over from scratch, it's your option, but you have the option of purchasing a newer versions of OS X.
    OS 10.3.x Panther is faster and more stable than 10.2.x Jaguar.
    OS 10.4.x Tiger is even faster and stable.
    This is entirely up to you.
    Once all this preliminary stuff is in place, it's time to re-install the OS.
    Insert your sofware restore CD/DVD or retail OS X disc into your internal or external drive. If using internal drive you can simply startup/restart from disc holding the "C" key at restart.
    If using an external drive you can try same method or before you restart the Mac, again, from OS X start up disc prefences pane pick the external drive as your startup disc then restart.
    The Mac should start from disc and now proceed with following instructions for re-install of OS X Jaguar.
    Before you proceed with the actual install process, you can open disk Utility on the CD and decide if you would you to partition your drive. If you do not wish to partition you can continue with disk Utility's erase disk function. Once the drive is erased, quit DU and return to the OS X installer and the OS X install process.
    Once sucessfully installed restart the Mac, remove the install CD/DVD once able to open thr drive during restart (so as to let the internal drive boot up OS X).
    Once at the Finder, launch Apple's Disk Uitlity from the Applications/utilities folder and do a repair permissions on the drive/volume
    Once permissions have been repaired, run the OS 10.2.x combo updater to update your Mac to the last/latest version of the particular flavor of OS X you are using.
    If the combo update was succesful, re-launch Disk Uitlity and repair permissions on the boot volume, again.
    If you purchased TechTool Pro, you'll need to get this CD out, restart from the TechTool CD by restarting the Mac by holding down the "C" key or pick the TechTool Pro CD as the new Startup Disk.
    Run its volume structure/directory repair and optimization routines as well as its disk optimization routines.
    I am not going to spell out how to do this, follow the instruction supplied in TechTool Pro's printed manual or help menu.
    Once the OS X boot drive/volume has been repaired and optimized, restart the Mac and have it start from the internal drives OS X boot volume.
    Once booted to the OS X system on the internal drive, again, launch Disk Utility and repair permissions on the main OS X system boot volume.
    Then proceed with re-installing all of your third party apps.
    Any apps that required an installer program to install need to be re-installed in this fashion. After installing an app, repair permissions in Disk Utility each time.
    Apps that were installed from disc by simply dragging a folder from the disc to the OS X applications folder can be done the same way. You do not have to repair permissions when installing these kind of apps only ones that use an installer program to install the app becuase the installer installs additional code/software, kernel extensions, whatever into the main OS X boot volume of OS X system folder. This does not happen with "self- contained" folder apps.
    Only install between 6-8 apps at a time, using TechTool Pro's disk repair/optimization routines in-between.
    Once your Mac is back in good working order, you can try reinstalling (one at a time) any PCI cards and devices previously installed.
    (Optionall proceedure and additonal software needed-Once OS X has been sucessfully installed on the internal drive, if you have or purchase an external OS X bootable FireWire drive you can use a 3rd party system copying app called Carbon Copy Cloner to clone an exact duplicate of your internal OS X system to your external firewire drive. If possible do this once you have completed the last run of TechTool Pro's disk utilities.
    Follow Carbon Copy Cloner's instructions to clone an exact copy of the OS X system and apps to the external FW drive.
    You need to use an external Bootable FireWire drive. USB external drives are not bootable on Macs and OS X.)
    You need to run TechTool Pro anywhere from once or twice a month to once a week depending on how much your Mac gets used.
    Periodic Mac maintenance is key to keeping a Mac healthy and functioning normally.
    If you experience any crashing or lockups where you need to restart the Mac, once the Mac has restarted into OS X you need to Launch the Apple Disk Utility and repair permissions on the OS X boot volume.
    Need to do this every time you experience a freeze or crash.
    Please note any USB/Firewire devices installed on a PCI card may not let your Mac deep sleep anymore. You can test devices to see which ones can stay connected and your Mac sleeps. The devices that prevent this from happening you need to disconnect before allowing your Mac to sleep or you simply disable system sleep. You can kepp your Mac from sleeping, but let the display sleep only and have the hard drives spin down when not in use.
    This is a long time known issue and there is no other fix for this.
    As Far as reponse time of USB devices, the G4 MDD uses USB 1.0 and is slow as molasses for data swapping. If your ZIP and flash drives are USB 2.0, the data is only going to flow in at USB 1.0 speeds.
    Again, you may need to purchase and install a PCI card USB 2.0 card or a PCI USB 2.0/Firewire Combo card to have your data move to these devices at a fatser rate.
    Follow the manufacturer's instruaction for installing the hardware and software.
    These can be purchased from a local Mac reseller or from the site I have given above.
    Hope I covered everyhing
    Hope this was helpful to you.
    Any one else feel free to offer your own advice, opinions or corrections on what I have expunged here.

  • 2012 Macbook Pro 13in 2.9GHz vs 2011 October 15in quad core refurb

    This fall I will be a freshman at my college and I have decided that I am going to invest in a macbook pro. Right now I could buy 2012 13in with 8gb of ram for $1399 or I could purchase the refurb for $1359. My question is which one will benefit me more in the long run? Is 15in to bulky and heavy to take to college? If i chose the refurb would I be able to count on it for years to come? Will it last longer than the 2012 13in. If I got the 15in I would probably upgrade to 8gb of ram. I would be missing out on USB 3.0 if I chose the refurb though. Is this a deal breaker? I'm planning on getting into Economics and my college pretty much endorses Macs so that won't be a problem. Otherwise, I will probably just be doing normal things on my computer like watching videos, surfing the web, typing papers, downloading music and the occasional playing of flash games on the internet. I just want to make sure that I can get a computer that will last me at least 4 years and hopefully more. Any suggestions and thoughts would be very helpful!

    I would go a different route.....
    I would buy the the 15' Quad Core.
    Regardless of which one you decide to purchase, they would last for years if proper care is used.
    The 2.9GHz is a fast machine.  No doubt about that one.  It is however, in the end, only a dual core.
    Let say you decide to do some number crunching, the dual core will run out of steam before the quad core does.
    Or you decide to use photoshop, the dual core will do the job but the quad will do it efficiently because of it's quad core design, the processing is done by all four cores thus finishing faster.
    And when it comes with your occasional games, the 15' has it's own discreet graphics to process the videos while the 13' has to rely on the processor to drive the built in intel video.  So the processor will be working harder on the 13' which will make your MB run a little on the hot side.

  • How to tell if replacement iPod is refurb or new ?

    Hi,
    I guess it doesn't really matter that much but I am just curious....how do you tell if the replacement iPod Apple sends you, after you send in yours on a repair, is a refurb or brand new ?
    I just got my replacement iPod today and I swear it is brand new but wonder if they just refurbed the inards of somebody elses and put it in a brand new casing ?

    Try best you can:
    - iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
    - Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
    How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
    - If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
      - If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem

  • Refurbed 4th Generation Click Wheel 20 GB - Transfer songs with Firewire?

    I currently own a 2nd generation iPod scroll wheel (that's about to die any day)...I'm thinking of getting a refurbed 4th Generation Click Wheel 20 GB.
    Question: Can I load my huge iTunes library onto the refurbed 4th generation click wheel via Firewire? My iMac only has USB 1.1 and I don't want to transfer the data via USB (it would take forever)....unsure if this iPod will actually transfer data via Firewire or if it uses Firewire for charging purposes only.

    Firewire is supported for data transfer and charging on the 4th Gen iPod.
    You should have no problem at all, provided you have a Firewire-to-DockConnector cable. (I'm not sure if this is included with a refurb iPod)

  • 4 Questions RE:  iPod Click Wheel 40 GB (HP-Refurb)

    Hello All-
    I just connected my 40 GB iPod Click Wheel (HP Refurb.) and am a newbie to the world of ipod. I am using iTunes 4.6 & Mac OS 10.3.5. (I haven't upgraded to iTunes 6 on purpose because I thought this older version would be better suited to my older iPod...)
    My first reaction to the sound was not great -the sound in general was flat (not full range) and the volume was too low.
    To test the sound, I imported the same song into the ipod in 3 formats: AIFF, Apple Lossless & MP3 (160 kbps). To my surprise, the AIFF sounded the worst! (it had low volume and a reduced frequency range (it sounded and very flat) Why, I have no idea-
    That said, I have 4 questions for the forum:
    1) Is there anyway to boost the volume on my ipod? (it is not the European model, it is an HP Refurb.)
    2) Is there anyway the ipod can use the EQ settings assigned to a particular song in iTunes?
    3) Is there anyway the ipod can use volume settings assigned to a particular song in iTunes?
    4) Is there anyway to import my custom EQ settings (for a particular song or in general) into the ipod EQ menu?
    In general, I want to improve the quality of the sound-
    And specifically, I would like to be able to boost the volume and have more control over the EQ .
    (iTunes has a fairly decent EQ, my fingers are crossed that there may some way to use some of those features in the ipod, --iTunes is so seamlessly integrated with iTunes in all other respects...)
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks in advance-
    tmp

    1) Is there anyway to boost the volume on my ipod?
    (it is not the European model, it is an HP Refurb.)
    You have tried turning the volume up, right? ALso, make sure sound check is not enabled. (Settings-->sound check-->off)
    2) Is there anyway the ipod can use the EQ settings
    assigned to a particular song in iTunes?
    Yes. You need to have any EQ enabled on your iPod (settings-->EQ-->pick one). When you play a song, the iPod will use the EQ you set in iTunes instead of the one set on the iPod. If the EQ is set to off on the iPod, no EQ will be used.
    3) Is there anyway the ipod can use volume settings
    assigned to a particular song in iTunes?
    It should be. Are you noticing any difference between songs with higher volumes set?
    4) Is there anyway to import my custom EQ settings
    (for a particular song or in general) into the ipod
    EQ menu?
    No. I would...
    Send Apple Your Feedback
    I would also update iTunes and make sure the iPod's software is up to date...
    iTunes
    iPod Updater
    Updating iPod's Software
    btabz

  • New iPod Touch without Retail Packaging or Was it a Refurb?

    Greetings Apple Community,
    I just recently bought an iPod Touch 4th Generation from a seller on Amazon.com called "iPod Superstore" for 300 bucks.  The item was listed as "New" and I do not remember seeing any further item details on this item when I was going through the purchase process (other than "New" iPod Touch).
    When I received the iPod in the mail today it came in an anti-static wrapping with bubble wrap around it and NO Apple Retail Packaging.  However, after inspection the iPod appeared to be new, not a single scratch on the front or back of it, but it had a completely drained battery and was displaying the "Conect to Computer with iTunes" warning on the screen (every new Apple item that I've bought from Apple or new in retail packaging always comes nearly fully charged, that is why I am stating this).  When I entered in the serial number on the Apple Suport website it stated that the support and warranties were expired.  Would this indicate that the iPod I bought from this Amazon merchant was refurbished even though it appeared and looked like the iPod was brand new?
    My gut is telling me that I got duped and the seller bought this as a used iPod and refurbished it with a new outter front and back making it appear new.  When I contacted the seller (owner of the company) she stated that all the iPods she sells are brand new and that they buy the overstock/unsold items directly from Apple without the retail packaging and "new" so that is why they look like they do and don't come in the Apple retail clamshell boxing with manuals etc.  Could this be true and is this how Apple sells off its older unsold stock?  I wouldn't think they would do this for quality control purposes etc., but I guess I could be wrong.  I sent the item back and am getting a refund from "iPod Superstore" and will be buying another iPod from a different seller but in unopened retail packaging this time.
    Anyone from an Apple Store or who works for Apple know if all of this is true and if I should have trusted this seller?
    Many Thanks for your time.
    Nate

    Thanks Varjak Paw for the quick response.  I figured something wasn't right when I entered in the serial number on the Apple website and it came up as "expired".  I know it doesn't take a genius to figure that out, but I'm afraid many more people will get scammed by this company (iPod Superstore) claiming to sell "new" iPods but without the retail packaging.  The owner seemed slightly on edge when I talked to her on the phone when I claimed it was a refurb, stated all the facts that I mentioned in my previous post, and she kept trying to convince me that they only sell "new" iPods.  When someone is overly persistent with me with their (false) claims, that usually throws off some red flags to me.
    I would appreciate hearing from one or two more expert Apple users so I can rest easy with my decision on returning the iPod.
    Thanks again Varjak paw for your expertise.  

  • Refurb ipod not recognized by itunes until disconnect

    I recently purchased a refurb ipod classig 160gb. The ipod still has the previous owner's data on it (ipod name, music, and videos) if that has any relevence to this.
    Anyway, when I plug the ipod in to the computer (windows 8 64 bit) it loads all the drivers, but it is never recognized by itunes while it is connected to the computer. It is only at the moment I disconnect the ipod from the computer that itunes recognizes the device, and it pops up a message saying that there is an ipod connected, but it is corrupted and needs to be reformatted. However, since itunes will not recognize the ipod while it is connected, I cannot reformat it through itunes.
    I have tried removing & resintalling itunes, I have tried multiple usb ports. I have even tried installing itunes on my laptop and work PC, and the same thing happens on those as well, so I have to assume this is an issue with either the ipod or the data cable since the problem occurs on multiple computers.
    Could this be the result of a bad sync cable?
    Is there a way to reformat an ipod without using itunes to do so?
    Anyone have any idea what the ****'s going on here?
    I'm stumped.

    Is the iPod mounting on the desktop? Have you tried unplugging all devices and power from the CPU (I don't have a powerbook, maybe you would need to pull the battery?) to "reset" Firewire?
    When you trashed the iPodDriver.kext did you follow the steps for your OS? Check out this document and see if you need to update.
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61937
    Good luck.

  • MacBook Pro 13" (Late 2013) or Refurb Pro 15" (Early 2013)

    Hello guys/girls,
    I'm currently studying applied informatics and I need a new laptop for the daily university life.
    I came to buy a macbook because of various reasons (Battery life, speed, durability, ..) but I'm still not sure which one I should buy.
    I decided to buy a new 13" MacBook Pro Retina with 16GB of RAM, 2.4GHz i5 CPU and a 256GB Flash-Storage but the local refurbished store (Germany) has been updated and a 15" MacBook Pro Retina with 2.4GHz i7 QuadCore CPU, 8GB of RAM and 256GB Flash-Storage has been added. Now I don't know what to buy. Either spent ~100€ more for the 15" refurb. Version or buy the new 13" MBPr.
    I'll need to run atleat one IDE for Java, Visual Studio (so I need to start a Windows VM) and maybe more later.
    Pros of the 13":
    + Smaller and easier to carry around
    + Better battery life
    + Faster SSD
    + New SSD (? I'm not sure if the one in the refurbed is changed to a new one, since all SSDs have limited write sequences)
    + A bit cheaper
    + More RAM (16GB)
    Pros of the 15" Refurb:
    + Faster when it comes to CPU (i7 QuadCore)
    + Faster when it comes to GPU (GT650M)
    + Bigger Display
    + Maybe longer usable (Should be atleast 4-6 years!!)
    What would you suggest me?

      Reset PRAM.   http://support.apple.com/kb/PH18761
    Reset SMC.     http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
    Choose the method for:
    "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
      Start up in Safe Mode.  http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT1564
    Best.

  • Options after new phone stolen (had for two weeks), and refurb doesn't work?

    Back in November, I ran into some bad luck with Best Buy phone insurance, and wasn't due for an upgrade with Verizon until March.  Long story short, I went into a Verizon store on Black Friday weekend to see what my options were, and walked away with a brand new Droid Maxx for only $40.  It counted as my new upgrade, and I was thrilled.
    Not two weeks after purchasing the new phone, it was stolen from me.  I contacted the Asurion insurance company and shelled out $150 to have another phone overnighted to me.  Much to my surprise, they sent me a refurbished Maxx with a small crack in one corner - clearly a great deal older than my two week old stolen phone.  I decided to give the phone a chance, since I didn't have enough money for other options.
    Now, nearly three months later, this refurb is not working out at all.  The crack has grown, I can't do any hands free or voice activating calling/navigation, the speakers cut out periodically, and most of the time I can't hear out of them to the point where I have to use speaker phone, and then the people I'm speaking with can't hear me.  To top it off, the usually fantastic and long battery life I enjoyed on the original phone are NOT present on the refurb.  It lasts half as long, when it does bother at all to charge.
    I work for a hospital and need to be on call nearly every day, and the needless quirks on this phone are making it very difficult to do so.
    I am at my wits end, and would like to know what my options are.  I did not pay almost $200 to insurance to have a subpar refurb for the next two years, and I cannot afford to pay $150 to Asurion for another refurb.  If my money goes anywhere, I would like it to go to something that will last me the next two years. I realize that I am very lucky to even have a nice phone, but it is not meeting my needs and is risking my day job when the hospital can't get ahold of me readily.
    What are my options?  I am on  family plan.  Should I pull my number off the plan for my own?  Try to qualify for Verizon Edge?  Or take my number to another provider that will give me a new contract and a new phone?  Thank you for your help in advance!

    You should have arranged return of the damaged replacement to begin with right then.  Too late for that though. At this point, you can buy a used phone on Swappa.com or elsewhere that is compatible to Verizon or buy full retail.  I don't they will let you Early Edge right now being so close to having just upgraded.

  • Just bought a refurb PB G4 via power seller on ebay. Froze on 1st power up. Report says unresolved kernel. Is this terminal or fixable. Should I ask for money back whilst under warranty? I am not techie so worried and not sure what to do?  OSX 10.5.8

    Hi
    Just over a week ago I bought a refurb Powerbook G4 via a power reseller on ebay. The first time I switched it on it froze said OSx had quit unexpectedly... assumed I had done something wrong as not very techie so forced shut down and started again. It is saying the same message frequently and freezing... report says unresolved kernel etc etc etc.
    I emailed the apple specialist I bought it off and he advises restarting by inserting the OSX disc and pressing down the C button to reboot from there then selecting disk utility, hard disk and repair. He says it shouldn't be happening as it was fully tested before dispatch?? The only thing I have loaded is an update to adobe and Software for my 3 dongle but as it was freezing before I loaded either of these I don't think they can be responsible??
    Please can somebody advise if this is a serious problem. I believe I have warranty for 14 days on this item and I am worried I may have bought myself into a problem. Is this a simple thing to repair. Does he mean me to hold down the C key on the alpha keyboard or the ctrl key? (I emailed him and asked him that 2 days ago and he hasn't responded, hence my worries)... I am sorry if that is a stupid question but I really am not very techie at all.....
    Should I just ask for my money back??? If it is a simple repair do I just literally push the disc in, push the power button and hold down the C button?
    Any advice would be really apprciated.....
    Thank you
    Debbie

    Debbie:
    deborahfromwindsor wrote:
    he advises restarting by inserting the OSX disc and pressing down the C button to reboot from there then selecting disk utility, hard disk and repair.... Does he mean me to hold down the C key on the alpha keyboard or the ctrl key?
    Should I just ask for my money back??? If it is a simple repair do I just literally push the disc in, push the power button and hold down the C button?
    That's where I would begin, too, with
    Repair Disk
    Insert Installer disk and Restart, holding down the "C" key until grey Apple appears.
    Go to Installer menu (Panther and earlier) or Utilities menu (Tiger) and launch Disk Utility.
    Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in the left panel.
    Select First Aid in the Main panel.
    (Check S.M.A.R.TStatus of HDD at the bottom of right panel, and report if it saysanything but Verified)
    Click Repair Disk on the bottom right.
    If DU reports disk does not need repairs quit DU and restart.
    If DU reports errors Repair again and again until DU reports disk is repaired.
    If DU reports errors it cannot repair you will need touse autility like TechTool Pro,Drive Geniusor DiskWarrior
    First we need to determine if the issue you are experiencing with the computer is software or hardware based. Once we have gotten things sorted out there should be time enough to make you decision about keeping or returning it.
    cornelius

  • MAR WIN 7 PRO 64bit on Refurb T520

    I have ordered a T520 refurb. It apparently has MAR WIN 7 PRO 64bit installed on a 250GB 7200 HD. No discs, so presumably there will be a recovery partition.
    Question 1: Will I be able to burn a recovery CD from the recovery partition?
    Question 2. I would like to install an SSD as the main drive. Can I clone the entire HD including recovery partition and keep it as a back up? Maybe install in Ultrabay and partition it so I can use it in part for data.
    Question 3. If I needed to download and install a Win7 Pro 64 bit ISO, will it work using the MAR license?
    Question 4. I think I read something about loss of functionality of Thinkvantage when using MAR Windows because Flextronics/IBM are not fully licensed to offer some features. Is this true? I may have misunderstood.
    Any other pitfalls of MAR I should know about?

    "All the Lenovo software will not be included, and probably the drivers they have on file for the system. That would be because the company does not have a contract with Lenovo (I am guessing here) but as far as I know that does not stop you from getting it. BUT you will not get the other software that is loaded on Lenovo's at the factory. That may be what they are talking about. But Windows is windows. Say for instance you have Windows 7 Premium Home, it will be the same as if Lenovo installed it, or you installed it yourself.
    One issue you may have. Recovery discs. Are you getting any Discs with the computer, or does it have a recovery partition. You have to get one or the other at the cost of the remanufacturer"
     I am finding that there are differences with the IBM/Flextronics refurb machine. They say in a FAQ that because they are not legally allowed to use the Lenovo operating software, the Thinkvantage button is deactivated. If I hit downarrow (or is it F12), and get to the boot choice screen, there is an option at the bottom for recovery. This uses the recovery partition and will apparently over write the windows installation, losing set up etc. 
    What I was looking for, was a method to backup the recovery partition to DVD or USB stick just in case drive itself fails. But I don't see a way to do that other than cloning the entire disk. Is there another way?

  • Fix for slow-as-hell refurb ThinkPad Twist S230u

    I recently got a refurbished ThinkPad Twist, and I was having issues with lagging - everything was taking forever, both web-based and local. Kept monitoring performance and nothing seemed amiss with memory or processing, nothing wrong with my internet connection. After a little digging I found that using Lenovo Solution Center solved my problem - it prompted me to update the BIOS, there was some kind of update related to power management, and there were some Windows patches. As soon as I did that everything was running as smooth as silk. Seems a little shady the refurb people wouldn't have done those updates since they came out before I got the laptop, but whatever, just glad I got it solved. I thought I was going to have to try a factory reset but no!
    I just wanted to share here since I spent a ridiculous amount of time winding my way through the labyrinthine Lenovo website, when all I had to do was go to Start and type "update." So if, like me, you're pissed off that your brand-new-to-you machine is faulty, do yourself a favor and try that first and see where it gets you.
    You can also do a hardware scan through Lenovo Solution Center - which it seems like if you just got a refurbished machine and the hardware scan didn't come out clean that would be a tip-off that they didn't do their due diligence in testing it.

    Thank you.  I bought my Twist brand new and it has always run slowly until now thanks to your post.  I really appreciate it.

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