[Repost] DisplayPort HDMI Colour Problems

This is a repost from the MacBook Pro forums - hoping someone here might be able to help
I've got a late 2011 MacBook Pro (with the Radeon 6770M card). When certain conditions are met:
1. The machine is booted with the lid closed (it sits in a BookArc stand);
2. It is connected to an external display via the DisplayPort connector to an HDMI display;
3. It is booted into Windows under Boot Camp; and
4. The laptop lid is opened after boot.
...then the colour goes all... screwy. Here's what I mean. First picture is what the display colour should look like (as shown on the external monitor). Second picture is what it looks like on the MBP's inbuilt screen.
This is driving me bananas. I've tried a couple of different things:
1. Boot Camp 4.0 drivers;
2. Boot Camp 4.1 drivers;
2a. Boot Camp 5.0 drivers;
3. A different monitor cable;
4. A different external monitor;
5. A complete rebuild of OS X and Windows;
6. AMD native beta drivers (13.5).
Nothing's fixed it. I used to have a similar MBP, but with the 6750M card and that worked fine with the same connectors/stand/monitor/etc. The workaround is to boot it with the lid open, which is kind of a pain (in a first-world-problems kind of way).
I'm guessing there's a magic setting inside either Boot Camp control panel or drivers or even Windows itself that controls how it behaves with external monitors and colour settings and stuff like that, but I can't work it out.
Help?

I have also tried Boot Camp 5 (5.0.2) drivers, no dice.
And spent hours mucking about with the Catalyst Control Centre for things like pixel colour format, and assigning different profiles using Windows Colour Management.
I'm getting the strong feeling this is something quite specific to how the card is initialised in certain states, and at a level low enough to be hidden from the user.

Similar Messages

Mini Displayport/HDMI cable & Audio Y cable to Vizio. No sound!

13-inch MacBook Pro, mid-2009
Vizio E320i-A0
I connected a mini displayport/HDMI cable and a audio Y cable (Dynex 3.5mm RCA) from my MacBook Pro to my Vizio TV and I can't get any sound through the TV; however, I do get a picture. Called Vizio and, of course, they say there are no audio settings that need to be changed on the TV. Reviewed other discussions about this topic and tried changing the Audio MIDI Setup, but I don't get the same options. Do I have the wrong cables?

alex94598 wrote:
I have a new retina mac with an hdmi port but I had the same problem with no audio.
I fixed it by going into system prefs -> sound -> output and selecting the TV as the output
Make sure your TV is connected when doing this
TV is not one of the options when I follow those directions. My only option is "Internal Speakers" and my Airport Express. I think those directions work for you because you have a later model Mac... but thank you for your help. :-)

HDMI connection problem with Olevia HDTV 237T

I have a problem with the Fios HDTV box not communicating via the HDMI cable to my Olevia HDTV 237T. Every time I start up or change channels from HD signal to SD signal, the TV goes to blue screen with no signal. The only solution found so far is to unplug the HDMI cable from the TV and plug it in again. I tried an HDMI switcher box in-between but with no real difference in the result. Is there a solution to be found before I wear out the connectors on the cable?

The only other thing you could do would be to try upgrading the firmware on your television. That might fix the HDMI sync issues. If it doesnt, the only other option would be to use a component cable. It will give you the same 1080i quality picture that our set top box puts out. That HDMI sync problem is the biggest problem that any device that communicate HDMI can encounter. I'm sorry for the trouble you are experiencing.
Anthony_VZ
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B&w colour problem

I have uploaded this website: www.ambientdesign.com.au
The problem is that in Internet Explorer, the colours are
b&w. Everything else looks OK.
Another issue (which isn't as much of a concern as the colour
problem) is that in Mozilla a few elements move position eg: the
text in the footer appears below the footer. Thanks for
help.

Are you working on this page right now?
I see the page as I suppose it should be in Firefox, but in
IE6 and 7, there
is no styling whatsoever... the images are in colour, but
it's not reading
the stylesheet at all.
I have no idea why, apart from the fact that it may have
something to do
with sitting as a sub domain of your hosting account at
ozemail or
something....
May I ask why you are using frames for the site - there
doesn't appear to be
a real reason to use frames for that layout?
I put the main page through the validator and there's a few
errors that may
need clearing up :
http://validator.w3.org/check?verbose=1&uri=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.ozemail.com.au%2F~ambient design%2F
Nadia
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"ambient2000" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:etb886$eef$[email protected]..
>I have uploaded this website: www.ambientdesign.com.au
>
> The problem is that in Internet Explorer, the colours
are b&w. Everything
> else
> looks OK.
>
> Another issue (which isn't as much of a concern as the
colour problem) is
> that
> in Mozilla a few elements move position eg: the text in
the footer appears
> below the footer. Thanks for help.
>

T520 DisplayPort -- HDMI cable recommendation needed

I just purchased a T520 with discrete graphics (nVidia NVS-4200M) and would like to use my HDTV as an external monitor at its native resolution (1920 x 1080). The DisplayPort --> HDMI cable I plan to use should carry both graphics and audio.
Since I've read about other issues with similar cables/adaptors not carrying both graphics and audio when used with the previous nVidia NVS-3100M card, I am writing to request a specific recommendation for an Display Port ---> HDMI cable (not adaptor) with my particular configuration.
Thanks.

I have the same ThinkPad model.
I bought this product and it works fine for graphics and audio.

Anyone getting print colour problems after Mac 10.6.8 Update?

Since June 29, when we downloaded the latest Apple OS X update, prints on all four papers I use - and have custom profiles for - have developed a green cast out of our Epson R1900. Can't help thinking that this caused by the Epson Printer Software Update (# 2.7) that was part of that Apple update. There are reams of complaints over on the Photoshop Mac forum about this update causing printers to stop completely; but none citing colour problems.
Seems complicated - according to Apple - by the fact that the Epsom driver that Update 2.7 replaced, will not work with OS X 10.6.8. To back track one has to back track the complete OS to 6.7. Something to do with Snow Leopard being made ready for Lion.
Oh, and yes - I have recalibrated my screen since the update; and yes, have exhaustively run all the maintenance tasks on the R1900.

Seems we have sorted the problem, and I thought it might warrant us sharing that - particularly as it was less than obvious. We use four paper types and have pre-sets for each in the Print Module. Actually eight presets as the four are duplicated for two paper sizes. Each pre-set includes a custom-made ICC profile for the paper/printer (an Epson R1900).
Following the Apple Software Update to OS X 10.6.8, there appeared a noticeable blue/green cast over all newly made prints. Nothing in the Lr3 printing process appeared to change; and so the conclusion was that something had changed in the new Epson printer driver that accompanied the update. Some time and effort was expended with Apple investigating a backtrack to 10.6.7, which proved fruitless for too complicated a reason to go into here.
Left with seeking an alternative answer, we deleted the printer and reinstalled using the original disk; opting to take the offered driver update. This resulted in driver 6.20 being loaded - the same as had been causing all the grief. However, when we came to check the Print Settings dropdown - after specifying the appropriate preset - to make sure it specified 'no colour correction', it was obvious that the ICC profile had not been recognised, although the Page Settings for the preset had. Each box in the dropdown merely contained the default - plain paper, Colorsync, etc. Manually entering all the criteria in Print Settings - as should have been picked up from the preset - produced a perfect print. Perfect that is compared to one printed prior to download 10.6.8.
The odd thing about this - and the one that left us clueless - was that before deleting and re-installing the printer - the Print Settings dropdown reflected all of the criteria of the preset. Everything looked normal, except that is for the hair being pulled out by those wasting time, paper and ink after a solution.

Printing Colour Problems ...

I know this is a common cry for help, but I am having a dreadful time trying to understand colour profiles, despite spending a lot of time reading up on the subject. Here's my basic dilemma:
I have calibrated my display (Apple 23" Cinema). I am using an old Epson 830U for basic home proofs. I have set up my proofing profile in Aperture to match the printer and paper I'm using. When I print from Aperture I select my printer and paper in the colour sync profile, and in addition I ensure that the paper type is correctly specified in the printer's settings (and I also deselect colour managment in the printer settings).
Does this sound right ? I've noticed that even just a small mistake, e.g. forgetting to select the paper type correctly, can lead to extreme colour differences.
At the end of the day I'm not despertate for perfect colour in my home proofs, but I am trying to get them to look approximately right. It's not uncommon for me to end up with extreme colour problems. I can't print anything from iPhoto without it coming out too dark and with a blue tint. Luckily, printing from Aperture seems to produce better results (I just wish I knew why).
Surely it shouldn't be this hard to set up a basic Epson photo printer on the Mac.
If anyone knows of an idiot proof guide to home photo printing using high end applications on Mac OS X, feel free to point me in that direction.
Paul

I suspect it really is intricate as opposed to hard. But here's my "Dummies/Idiot's Guide ...." for you.
The difficulties start by reminding ourselves that color is perceptual. Our retina sends a signal to our brain, and our brain translates that to a color. But, who knows what color you perceive as blue compared with myself if we both stand side by side and look up at a blue sky. we've just been told since a baby that it's blue, but our brain does it's magic and we "see" what it tells us. This translation issue between retina and perceived image is behind much color-blindness ... a difficulty in perceiving a color difference.
Since we can't "standardize" our brains (well not anytime soon), what can we standardize that can reduce variance in our actual and perceived perception?
Perception is 9/10's of the Law:
Ever taken your laptop outside? When you can actually see the image due to the relative brightness of the outside to indoors, did you notice that colors seemed different? Your eye is adjusting to the ambient light, and your brain gets in on the act. Your brain decides that the brightest light source is essentially "white" and so tricks us. That's why we can take a photo inside under tungsten light, and what looked white to us as we took the shot comes out as yellow-orange. Quantum Physics time: Tungsten releases "light" (electromagnetic radiation) at this frequency when electrons that had been bumped up to higher energy states (by us supplying power from the on/off switch) fall back to a lower energy state and give off or 'emit" a packet of energy comprising the difference between those two states.
Halogen headlights look brighter, but also whiter than tungsten headlights. That's because the radiation they emit is somewhat bluer. Xenon headlights are even more blue biased.
The sun gives off light from a whole collection of different elements, but by and large it is yellow/red. However, there is lashings and lashings of it compared to a tungsten bulb, and our poor, overworked brain is left to cope figuring out brightness vs. whiteness. Our brains do OK, but they do it by tricking us rather than science.
Home is where the heart of the problem is:
So, OK, we've taken some photos, and pressed this button to "auto white balance" or selected a "white balance" that tells the camera that although white isn't really white, pretend that it is, since our brain is also pretending. Of course, if we forget to tell our camera this, we have to tell Aperture or PS CS2.
But, sat there in front of our screen, what are we really seeing? Well, we are not seeing just the displayed image, no oh no. That would be too simple! No, our brains are passionate about their environment. What's the lighting? Fluorescent (I hope not), halogen, tungsten? This matters as our eyes/brain will calibrate to more than just the on screen image. What wall colors exist? Blue, red, green, off-white? Those refceted colors are going to fool our brain into believing that the image on screen has a tint. This is why Aperture's window is all gray, and photo professionals strongly suggest image editing is performed in an all gray room, with as "white" a light source as possible (halogen vs. tungsten, tungsten vs. fluorescent). BTW. I dislike fluorescents as all the bulbs seem to have hideously different colors, and age badly across time. That plus the rather unattractive greenish tints they give skin tones puts me over the edge.
Oh, and no desklights with their nice pool of incident light or other effect lighting. Save that for the living room. This room is to reduce the trickery that your brain can throw at you. So, nice uniform, diffused lighting.
Watching you watching me:
But if we're now living in our nice gray world, ready to edit those wonderful images that we used the right white balance for when shooting, what next?
Calibrating your monitor means you standardize against those who wrote a color profile for the printer, the paper or who will be printing images for you. Your image should look the same on someone elses monitor as it does on yours. That's step 1.
However, displayed color is also perceptual. CRT's render color differently IMO to LCD's. Both are transmissive, but brightness differs and perhaps more importantly, what is color? Outside, our eye saw all the different wavelengths it was capable of sensing and passed the relative intensity values per wavelength to our brainiac computer. Not so in our digital scanner or camera. In computer technology, color is rendered as a triangular space represented by a dot at each apex ... one red, one blue and one green. Those point "phosphors" in CRT vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and to the standard required. Close but no cigar. The electronics and guns also do not track perfectly linearly from pure black (no signal) to pure white (max. output of a phosphor of equal intensity to the others). This is called gray-scale tracking and unless it is near perfect, you can see green or blue shifts in color at the black end or white end etc.
Uh oh, that white question again. Come to that, how do I know it's the same white that I set my camera to when I shot? Well, we don't really wiothout setting to some standard. It's not that each phosphor isn't emitting, it's the balance across them at our determined highest brightness (white) that needs to be set. D65 is often quoted in TV's, representing a color temperature of 6500Kelvin (deepest reds are low temperature emmissions and brightest blues are the highest temperatures).
Now LCD's don't have phosphors illuminated by a stream of electrons, and they came long after we had developed pretty decent CRT technologies. So being lazy humans, we lifted the ideas and terms No phosphors, but they do have red, green and blue LCD's (each a sub-pixel, and the three combined are a pixel)triggered by an electronic signal. so, why aren't they called LED panels? Well, LED's are not very bright, and we need a mechanism to make them brighter. Those quaint watches came to the rescue ... LCD's or Liquid Crystal Displays. You know, those ugly greeny/gray, low contrast watches. Yes, that's the one. Sandwich those colorful but dim LED's between an LCD, and use the LCD to switch on/off a powerful light ... rather light turbo charging a 4 cylinder motor to make it perform like a V8! The posh name was TFT-LCD (for Thin Film Transistor LCD). Now we have a bright, flat screen. Yahoo!
But backlighting of the panel is not always very uniform (look at colors around your screen for different flat colors at different intensities and you may see patchiness). Nor do LCD's behave exactly like phosphors from deepest black (impossible when you have to have a back light which is always on and which illuminates the whole panel of glass) to white. But why sweat this, when the LCD rarely conforms perfectly to the red, green, blue phosphor standards.
BTW, it is the backlight that kills laptop battery life, not the LCD's themselves. Turing your brightness down as low as possible helps .... but I digress.
So we buy calibration hardware and software, and calibrate our monitor to a ruler flat grayscale from pure black to pure white.
And it looks bad.
It is rather idiosyncratic of us that a perfectly linear gray scale can leave us perceiving a lack of contrast. So, we distort the "gamma" value to provide more punchiness. Apple vs. Windoze computers tended to have different gamma's out of the box. Apple uses a gamma of 1.8, a rather flater, more pastel effect that, if my knowledge is correct, translates/translated better to the characteristics of the professional CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black) four color printing processes used by offset litho printers. Windoze uses a gamma of 2.2, a punchier, gutsy, in-your-face effect. Marketing? I don't know. But it does appear a better match for RGB (our computer friendly Red, Green, Blue) inks used in inkjet printers.
So we calibrate our monitors, and then deliberately decalibrate them (if you will) to correspond to our output destinantion.
A quick digression here.
If our output is destined for print, what dos that mean to us? Well, part is covered above. But what about web, or tv viewing from DVD? Ahh hah! Gotcha!
We can control our calibration. We can even calibrate ourselves to external print shops, knowing that our image will appear 99% or more the same on their monitors as it does on ours. And they will have calibrated their monitors to their printers and paper (more on this below). But what about Joe Public?
Back to that color space.
A 10 year old color tv, used moderately over the years, performs no way like a new color tv. The phosphors "age." even the backlights in LCS panels age. Age is represented by diminished light output, and grayscale tracking. So, our 10 year old tv cannot represent the wide color space it could when it was brand new. Worse, even if we'd left our 10 year old tv in its box and just opened it, it would not be as capable as a brand new design. TV's are actually held down to 1950's standards rather than up for this very reasson, but the same is somewhat true of computer monitors. We don't know the age, quality or even the color calibration and room environment of our web browsers monitor. So, a much smaller "web safe" color space (sRGB ... standard - or small - RGB) was introduced. This restricted space should be renderable on most old monitors, though gross end consumer calibration issues will obviously remain uncontrollable.
Meanwhile, we want to keep as big a color space as possible ... difficult to put back in what's been taken out. (Set your camera to "Adobe RGB" please right now.) Working in the biggest color space allows us to target any lesser color space with relative ease. And some of these restricted color spaces belong to printers ... which of course, differ from printer to printer, (probably more associtated with inks to inks) and paper to paper ....
More on this next
White points

Displayport Mini- hdmi adapter+hdmi-hdmi+TV problem

Hi! I just bought displayport mini>hdmi adapter and hdmi-hdmi to my 37inch Full HD Panasonic LCD TV. Have problem like this on my TV when i plugged it-> http://yfrog.com/6dtvongelmaj those lines are moving up and down and they are different color when i am on my desktop.. Sorry my english

No one knows? f*ck...
Message was edited by: Uppis

Mini Displayport to HDMI Adapter Problems!!!

Okay so I have a MacBook Pro running OS X version 10.5.8.
2.4 GHz intel core 2 duo
And I recently got a Phillips flat screen tv with HDMI hook ups.
So naturally I wanted to connect my Mac.
So I went to Best Buy and purchased the Rocketfish mini displayport to HDMI adapter.
However upon connecting everything to my computer, nothing happened.
No picture came up on my tv, no sound, no change at all.
My computer doesn't even say there's a device connected.
Is there some sort of steps to setting it up?
I was under the impression I'd just have to plug it in and it would work.
Do I need to get another adapter?
Please help!
Thank you!

Took the MBP to the apple store. The display port works fine.
Embarassingly the tech pointed out the USB plug on the adaptor which I hadn't connected thinking it would be for another peripheral. Hey presto it worked!
Red faced thanks!
Zig

Using Sony Bravia 32" TV as a monter with my mac book colour problem

Hello,
I have connected my mac book pro 13 to the tv with a genuine apple hdmi cable adaptor and a hdmi cable.
I have mirrored the display in settings and can see the display on my mac on the tv.
The problem is the colour is awful. The colour is overly blue/purple. The greys come out almost a pink.
I also dont seem to have any sound coming out of the tv, and i think this setup should allow it. Do i need to activate the sound like you have to activate the mirror displays?
The tv colour when using sky or watching a dvd are good. The colours on my mac are good. What am i doing wrong?
Thanks Dave

Ronda Wilson wrote:
No. It's video only, as far as I know.
HDMI is audio/video and will work reliably as such between consumer devices (like tv's, dvd players, av receivers) it may also provide audio from a computer to a tv, but it depends on the tv. If the tv has multiple hdmi inputs then try them all, also the adaptor can affect the audio transmission.
All the foregoing assumes that you are going from hdmi to hdmi, if you have a dvi, minidvi or mini displayport it almost certainly won't work, even with an adaptor
Find an audio input on your tv that is active on the hdmi input (if there is one) and connect that to your mac as well as the hdmi, the awful picture may not be fixable.
Toshibas work from MacMini using HDMI

13" MacBook Pro (Early 2011) doesn't detect display over mini DisplayPort HDMI adapter in Mountain Lion 10.8.2

Hi to all.
I have a problem connecting external display (Dell U2311H) to my 13" MacBook Pro (Early 2011).
I use Tecklink Mini DasplayPort to HDMI adapter (http://www.techlink.uk.com/products/wires_cables/wiresmedia/wiresmedia_media/wir esmedia_mini_displayport_plug_to_hdmi_plug), but since U2311H doesn't have HDMI input, I also use Manhattan DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter (http://www.manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/8101-displayport-adapter).
And nothing.
The display is not detected, no picture or even external monitor presence at all.
I even reset PRAM, and installed 10.8.2 Supplementary update.
I also plugged and unplugged all I could, with no luck.
As I can see on Apple discussion, it is a common problem with 2011 MacBook Pro's.
It seems like the problem is in Thundebolt port, it somehow does not work properly.
If anyone has solved such ploblem, please let me know.

In reply to my own post have to say appologies to Apple whose Thunderbold port I used to blame.
Shame on me)
So, what was my problem?
Guess what?
Manhattan DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter !
The point is it's actually do only what it said to do, converts DP to HDMI.
But I for some reason thought it can be used vice versa, to be HDMI to DP converter))
I was wrong.
I bought new one HDMI to DVI adapter and now I HAVE external display!
Thunderbolt works like a charm.
So I'm very satisfied now.

MDP to HDMI display problem with Sony Bravia

Hi,
I've tried without success to connect my 2010 MBP to my Sony Bravia KDL-40W2000 using a Griffin Video Display Converter and an HDMI cable.
The TV isn't displaying a picture and no audio is transmitted either.
When the Griffin adapter is connected, I see an additional Display preference window (titled 'SONY TV'), but whichever options I choose in that window, I can't get anything to come up on the TV. I've tried all the resolutions possible and have experimented with turning mirroring on and off. Every combination ends up with the same result: the display is fine on the MBP but nothing appears on the TV.
I've looked through the TV's menus but there seem to be only a few relevant settings to tweak, and tweaking them hasn't helped. Sony's support team told me that their TVs aren't designed to accept HDMI input from computers(!), which just doesn't seem right given that others have had no problems in connecting up their kit to Sony TVs.
I know the HDMI cable is fine as it works when connected to the TV via another device.
I'd guess that the Griffin adapter is faulty, although if this were the case I wouldn't have expected the extra Display preference window to have appeared.
Is anyone able to diagnose the problem before I try to get the Griffin adapter replaced?
Thanks,
John

Hi John,
Did you fix your problem? I have an uncannily similar problem. I bought my MBP in December '09, and recently bought a Neet mini HDMI adaptor (http://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPort-AUDIO-v1-3b-adapter-cable/dp/B002SKJKE2/ref= sr126?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1282087795&sr=8-26) and HDMI cable. But I can get nothing at all through to the Sony TV through it. My Sony TV is KDL-40s3000. I went into the Preferences - Display and it didnt detect the Sony there, and in the Sony menu, under Settings - Set-Up - HDMI Set-Up, it never detects any device either. Under the channel on the Sony I chose for this, it does say "out of range". Perhaps that has something to do with it. Any solutions you found, please let me know!
Tom, London, at wit's end

Mac Mini HDMI Output Problem w/ LG L246WP

NOTE: This appears to be unrelated to the "screen flickering" that has been noted previously.
I'm using a fresh new Mac Mini 2012 with an LG L246WP LCD monitor. The monitor has HDMI, VGA and Component video inputs.
When I attach the monitor to the Mini DisplayPort output, using a Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter connected to a DVI to HDMI cable, the display functions properly at all resolutions - including the native 1920 x 1200 resolution that I use it at normally. All resolutions are clearly displayed in the "Displays" System Preferences pane. The display looks perfect, functions properly.
When I attach the monitor to the HDMI port using an HDMI cable, the display does not fucntion properly. The display is shifted about 80-100 pixels to the left and about 20 pixels up, creating black bars on the bottom and right sides. Because of this, a large portion of the display is not visible including the menu bar and most of the left side. Additionally, the settings are reduced to "Best for Display" or "Scaled", with resolution options under "Scaled".
This is not acceptable. I had planned on simply using the Mini DisplayPort output as a workaround, since I already have the DVI adapter from an old setup, but I need to use Thunderbolt to access external hard drives for rapid data transfer. One of my Thunderbolt accessories does not have two ports, so I can't simply add the Mini DisplayPort adapter to a chain. The HDMI port needs to function properly with my monitor.
It's important to note that this monitor has functioned properly with many other comptuers running OS X, Windows and various Linux flavors and it hasn't ever done this before. I've tried several different HDMI cables, ruling that out as a problem. I've tried the HDMI to DVI adapter that ships with the Mac Mini 2012 along with two different DVI to HDMI adapters, ruling that out as a problem. I tried attaching several HDMI devices (game consoles, DVD players, etc) and they all function properly, ruling out an HDMI issue as a problem. The monitor functions properly when attached through the Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter, so it's not a problem with the monitor. I've reset the PRAM already and the installation of OS X 10.8.1 is stock with no modifications or migrated data. I've tried the suggestions on the HDMI FAQ (although there's no "underscan" option available in Displays)
I tried to call AppleCare and after describing the problem I got disconnected with no callback. I started another ticket, described the problem, discussed the previous disconnection, was assured that I'd be called back if disconnected, and haven't heard back in two hours. So I started to dig into the problem in earnest.
This gets pretty technical.
After substantial research, it appears that this issue is related to the EDID that the monitor sends to the computer and, crucially, the way that the driver responds to it. For some reason, the HDMI port is recognizing the monitor as a CEA device instead of a monitor. As a result, it's restricting the monitor's available resolution to the native resolution that the CEA 681 Series Extension describes ("Best for Display") and all other resolutions (including 1920 x 1200) are only available as "scaled". For some reason that I can't discern, all resolutions (even the 1080i and 1080p options) have similar deformities.
I've attempted to fix this by placing an appropriate override file in /System/Library/Displays/Overrides with an edied EDID removing the CEA-enable flag from byte 127 but, even after a reboot, the OS still insists that it's a CEA device and it won't allow me to force it to recognize the monitor as a 1920 x 1200 LCD Monitor.
How did I come to this conclusion and develop the fix? A nearly identical problem description showed up on the following website, with details on how this user fixed the issue:
http://byuu.org/articles/computing/edid
They used a convoluted process that involved dismantling the monitor and flashing the EDID on the monitor itself. It fixed their problem. I'd prefer not to go through that process just because one computer has a problem with it. Frankly, I'd prefer if the new Mac Mini performed properly in the first place.
TL;DR: The Mac Mini 2012 doesn't work right with the LG L246WP through the HDMI output. Everything else works fine with it. This is very uncool. It's most likely to be an issue with the driver for the Intel HD Graphics 4000 GPU that are bundled with OS X 10.8.1. The Mac Mini 2012 won't update to 10.8.2 (yet), so I can't test it.
Anyone have any other ideas? Anyone else using a Mac Mini 2012 (or 2011) with an LG L246WP monitor? Anything simple I've missed?

Problem Resolved. But it was complicated. And a huge pain in the rear.
TL;DR: I flashed the EDID as described here. This is not recommended for the weary. Ideally, Apple should release an update OS X that will include the updated Intel HD Graphics 4000 drivers that utilize the CEA flag properly.
Here's the detailed version. As mentioned above, this isn't recommended for the weary. An improper (or interrupted) EDID flash can have seriously unpredictable effects on a monitor's performance.
Step 1: Get a Windows PC set up with a floppy drive and find a floppy disk. Use this system to format the floppy as a MS-DOS Boot Disk and copy over the "ddcw" program described at the aformentioned link.
This took awhile, but I was able to cobble together a temporary frankensystem with parts I had laying around. In installed XP and formatted the disk with XP's format tool.
Step 2: Grab EDID data from the monitor, modify it to disable CEA mode at bit 127 and make sure bit 128, the checksum, is appropriate.
This also took awhile. Several graphics cards I tried could not read or write EDID data. I ended up swapping AGP cards in my frankenstein box until I found one that worked - a generic GeForce4 4200.
Once the EDID data was written to the floppy, I edited the text file containing the EDID data to change the last two hex octets from "01 33" to "00 34" (00, to disable bit 127, and 34 is 33 + 1, which satisfies the checksum) and formatted the text file to match the sample included in the EDID_Write.zip file. Your mileage may vary - make sure the checks.
Step 3: Write EDID data to the monitor.
The link above mentioned three options: Easy (monitor's EDID is unprotected - write away!), Hard (monitor's EDID is protected - use service mode to attempt a fix), and Very Hard (monitor's EDID is protected, hardware modification is required).
Luckily my LG246WP simply needed to be put into service mode as described at the link above (menu + power) and once started up in service mode, I simply enabled "Aging Mode" (whatever that means) and attempted a DDCW write of the updated data.
Step 4: Profit!
After doing this, I powered off the monitor and powered it back on with the Mac Mini attached. The display functions PERFECTLY with HDMI out, just as it does using the Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter.

Update to 10.6.8 colour problems with external display

I have a mid-2010 13" macbook pro. I use a mini DVI to HDMI adaptor to connect to my Philips LCD TV. It has always worked perfectly including audio. Since update to 10.6.8 (yesterday) there is a colour-cast on the external display that makes it unusable. I have tried a hard reset of the mac with no effect except that the colour cast changed from green to red (strange!).
Anyone had a similar problem or have any ideas how I could solve it? (no time machine so I can't downgrade unfortunately)

Though I am using and iMac 27 and not a macbook, I have the similar issues since the 10.6.8 update.
I too am using the adapter to connect to a Philips 42' LCD.
You can see my post here: (has a pic of what my TV image now looks like since update.)
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15488605#15488605
I ended up going back to 10.6.7, not a fix, but no other alternative..
I used to have this problem a year ago on a PC that happened to have the same ATi Graphics card. I just used the ATI control center and changed a setting to YBR component or something like that in some color settings. But unfortunately we don't have the ATI control panel for mac, least I don't think we have any kind of alternative, but would prolly fix it..

Late 2012 Mac mini i7 to run dual Dell UltraSharp U2412M WITHOUT using the reported HDMI out problem port?

I've been reading about all the problems new Mac Mini users are having with trying to expand their desktop using the HDMI port. ie: snowy screens, fuzzy text, blackouts etc etc. My Mini is due to arrive in a couple days and I have two Dell UltraSharp U2412M LED/ISP monitors waiting for it. I know one of them will work fine with a cord I already have: miniDisplay to Displayport. Is there any way to daisy chain them if I run into this HDMI problem the others are having? THANKS.
The monitors have: Displayport, DVI, VGA connections only.

Mine shipped Oct 30 and I've had it running since Nov 6th. I took the original 4GB RAM out and replaced it with 16GB RAM. I also put a Mercury Elite 240GB SSD into the top bay using a doubler kit from OWC. I had an issue with the Disk Utility not liking the setup as two seperate drives. I ended up using Internet Recovery Disk Utility and did a Repair Disk on both drives and Disk Utility merged the drives into a Fusion Drive which was then properly recognized by DU. It all seems to work well, although I would have preferred seperate drives and more partitions, Fusion Drives are only allowed 1 additional partition, go figure. The HDMI has a bit of overscan with my 50" Panasonic Viera but the colors are good and the picture and fonts clear and distinct @ 1080p. I frequently use 720p for larger images so I can sit on the couch 15' away and read the text without binoculars.

[Repost] DisplayPort HDMI Colour Problems

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