Still images exported to DVD look deinterlaced and flicker on TV monitor

Hi,
I have tried tried almost everything and I still have issues with the still images exported to DVD as sequencefrom FCP 7.0 by using Compressor are deinterlaced and flicker on TV monitor. Please help remove the annoying flicker.
My FCP Timeline Sequence settings match the image resolution:
Frame Size: 1024 x 682 (double of 720 x 480 standard DVD res)
Pixel Aspect Ratio: Square
Field Dominance: None
Compressor: Photo JPG (also tried, DVCPRO-NTSC)
I cropped the original images in Photoshop to the 1024 x 682 and saved as tiffs. They still look deinterlaced in FCP timeline and exported to DVD on my iMac computer monitor.
Final output of DVD will be on this monitor:
Specifications:
Ikegami
Model: VCM-2101
Resolution: 450 TV Lines (Horizontal)
Should I crop the images to 450 horizontal pixels or the double of that 900?
How can I match the sequence or the images settings to avoid the flicker and deinterlaced look on that monitor? I am not able to test the image by having the monitor next to computer.
Compressor:
I used custom DVD settings in Compressor for 90 min best quality DVD. Tried the Porgressive and "Same as Source" in Output field.
In "Crop to" and "Padding" I set for preserve source aspect ratio and letterbox area of source.
I followed the advices from below and I still did not resolve the problem. Please is there anythign else I can try?
Thanks a lot..
Re: Poor Quality Stills
Dec 19, 2006 4:08 PM (in response to Steve Braker)
Things to try (In increasing order of image degradation)
- (in FCP) field order>none
- (in FCP or Photoshop) reduce whites by 10% - reduces overly bright areas
- (in FCP) flicker filter - minimum
- (in Photoshop) motion blur>vertical> .2 - .5 pixels - blurs vertically only
- (In FCP or Photoshop) Gaussian blur> .2 - .5 pixels -blurs both horizontally as well as vertically
- (in FCP or Photoshop) deinterlace - throws away half the image and is generally not appropriate on scanned images

Dear Russ,
Thank you very much. Yes, there is something else in the sequence, old documentary, 768 x 570 (no field dominance, 25fps, Apple ProRes 422) but the images are more imporant.
make a progressive sequence with  square pixels. (I am partial to 720P, 1080 should work – or 540). Choose Pro Res 422
Do you mean that I should make a sequence in FCP with these settings? If yes, how can I set a "progressive" sequence? I dont see a setting for output field in FCP sequence settings, lnly in customizing Compressor output DVD format.
Also: "720P, 1080 should work – or 540" are you talking about Frame size? If so, to set in Compressor or in FCP?
If you have interlaced material, then de-interlace before you bring it in. If you don't have interlaced clips, don't de-interlace.
The images are not interlaced after  I crop them, apply motion blur filter in Photoshop but look interlaced in FCP timeline after I import them and even to the same as photos sequence in FCP timeline.
Please help and thank you for your comments.

Similar Messages

  • FCP 6 Still Image Export HD squishes

    I work at a professional facility that just "upgraded" to FCP 6. Looked good when I first saw it but there is a flaw in the still image export. This is something I am required to do often. We are working with HD footage DVCPRO HD 1080 23.98. Exporting a still that maintains aspect 16:9 was tricky but in FCP 5 we found that if you export QT conversion - Still image - PCT and step in to the options to use the DVCPRO HD codec we would get a true 16:9 image. Not so any more. In FCP 6 this no longer works - the image comes out squished into 4:3. NOT GOOD. If i export a qt movie of the same frame then open that qt in Quicktime and then export movie to picture it works fine. PLEASE address this.

    I usually export stills using the export queue, and I too have noticed that FCP6 now seems to de-interlace and resize the stills to square pixel dimensions automatically. I can't find any way to control or deactivate this option - anyone know?

  • DV Still Image Exports at 640x480

    Since upgrading to FCP6 I've noticed that still image exports from a 720x480 DV NTSC timeline are 640x480 when
    opened with Photoshop (CS2). Is this a bug?

    We have the same issues, two systems just updated to FCP 6.0.2 export NTSC or PAL images or image sequences as square pixel dimensions, no matter what the media or sequence settings are.
    Our current workaround is to export QT reference movies, then use QTPro to export images or images sequences from there. For higher end work, we're using Kona DPX converter.
    Our two other systems have not been updated yet, nor will they be until 6.0.2 gets fixed. We'll continue to suffer through 6.0.1's media offline problems until then.
    On another board, someone mentioned the "aperture mode" feature in QT as being the problem - as far as I can tell, that in itself is not the problem, but maybe there is a flag in FCP's programming that's looking at that QT mode and just not interpreting the function correctly.

  • Need still image export in QT Pro 7.7 that opens in Photoshop CS6

    Using Quicktime 7.7 Pro I export a still image from an .avi movie file and choose movie to picture. In options, I am given a choice of various formats including jpeg and png.  But, the file extension still says .pct no matter what format option is chosen.
    I discovered today when I upgraded my old photoshop CS3 to CS6 that .pct format is no longer supported in the new version of Photoshop CS6. ( Ouch. )
    How can I export a still image in Quicktime Pro 7.7 so that it is readable in the Photoshop CS6?
    Thanks in advance for any solutions.
    Thomas

    How can I export a still image in Quicktime Pro 7.7 so that it is readable in the Photoshop CS6?
    Basically you can't. As you noted above, the QT 7 Pro option only exports a PCT file (the legacy system image file format) using your choice of compression.
    You could, however, try any of a number of other options:
    1) You can drag the current frame in your QT 7 Pro player to the desktop which should create a single-frame "Movie Clipping" file in the same format as your video video file. This file may or may not open directly in your updated version Photoshop as it does in my older version.
    2) Another possibility would be to use the Command-C keyboard shortcut to copy the current image in the QT 7 Pro player to the clipboard and then open Photoshop and create "New" file in Photoshop using the clipboard image dimensions. When the new empty file window opens, you can use the Command-V shortcut to paste the clipboard image to the window. On my system this creates a default PSD image. The major disadvantage of this approach is that if the original file was encoded anamorphically, then the image is created using the encode dimensions and you have to manually adjust the aspect ratio. (I.e., as opposed to using the work flow described above which recognizes anamorphic files and gives you the option of opening the file automatically in the correct apect.)
    2) If the "Movie Clipping" will not open in your version of Photoshop, then it will open in the free MPEG Streamclip app if you have it installed. This app can then export the video frame as a JPEG, TIFF, or PNG image.
    3) Another option would be to open the AVI video directly in the MPEG Streamclip, locate the frame you want and export the frame directly from the video file to a JPEG, TIFF, or PNG file as described above.
    4) Probably the most used work flow for compatible video is to open the file in the QT X Player, locate the frame you want, use the Command-C shortcut to copy the image to the clipboard as a PNG image which can the be opened from the clipboard in Preview and exported to a desired image file format. Of course, AVI files are frequently "iffy" with QT X depending on the specific video compression format used to create them.
    5) You can also use the Finder image capture option to capture the entire QT 7 Player image (or a portion thereof) as a PNG image (with or without a drop shadow) and then open it Photoshop where you can crop the image before performing whatever you want to do in this app.
    The are probably other options but this should be enough for you play with at this time.

  • How do i get a still image to fade the same way and at the same time as a video?

    I have a video stacked on top of a still image. When i add a transition, the still turns to a black screen while the video fades in accordance to the transition. How do i get the still image to fade the same way and at the same time as the video?

    I do. I've applied it to both the  still image and the video. Say i used the lens flare transition. If i apply it to both the video and the still image, the video will dissolve in to the next frame, but the still image will go to a black screen and then jump to the next frame. Its almost as if i inserted a black frame instead of a transition, but only for 2 seconds. Below is kind of a peek what it looks like.

  • This is about the still image size changing from what I see on the computer monitor and what the burned DVD shows on the TV

    I have Prem.El 12 and have used PE4 for years.  I have a new PC that runs Win7Pro.  The still images on the computer monitor are within the "safe margins".  The still images after the movie has been burned to a disk are MUCH smaller on the TV screen.  Is this an issue of 16:9 vs 4:3 ratios?  My TV is 4:3.  Can I tell PE12 to make the movie a 4:3?

    retchemteach
    Although I have seen your post of today in my Inbox Email Notifications, that post has not yet appears in this thread. It will probably will sooner or later. But, to keep things moving along....this is a copy of what I am seeing as your message of today in my Indox Email Notifications
    Thank you for your patience in the time it is taking me to get back to you.
    I am still trying to buy some DVD-RW discs and will hopefully do that in a
    bit.  Meanwhile, I have more info for you and some simple (I hope)
    questions.  If you want to insert your answers, that would be fine.
    My camera (for stills and video) is set to the 4:3 ratio.  It is capable of
    being set to a 16:9 ratio if I wanted to do that.  I looked in its TOOLS
    menu and saw this info.
    My TV is definitely a 4:3 TV.  (I measured it with my tape measure and
    divided W/L to get 1.33)  The TV can show a 16:9 movie and just adds the
    black bars on the top and bottom.  Question: What will my old 4:3 movies
    look like on a 16:9 TV whenever we buy one of those?
    It seems to me that I want to set PE12 to the NTSC DV Standard you
    mentioned.
    I do NOT know how to “size your photos so that each has a 4:3 aspect”,
    unless you mean doing that in Photoshop Elements, which I know how to do
    (*see below)
    I had NOT considered that I would need to watch the preset for the
    ‘Publish+Share’ step; so that’s good to know (I copied and pasted your info
    for later use).
    BTW, years ago when I had difficulties with my XP computer working on PE4
    (had only 2 GB RAM), an Adobe tech told me to resize my photos * to have a
    720 pixel width (the height would be automatically adjusted) to lower the
    file size to something my computer could handle without crashing.  (That
    was back in the good ol’ days when Adobe support would actually talk with
    their customers and try to help them in the first month)
    My new computer has 16GB RAM.  Do you think I still need to reduce file
    size?  One does lose some sharpness in the resizing process…..however,
    these videos I’m making are travelogues and are for a fun way to view pics
    and videos of a trip…nothing Earth shattering….and just a hobby to keep me
    off the streets.
    I truly appreciate the time you take to help me (and others).  I was even
    tempted to try to install my old PE4 on my new computer just to be able to
    enjoy my hobby again.
    My reply to the above....
    1. If you camera is giving you 4:3 photos and your Premiere Elements 12/12.1 is running on Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit, then leave
    the photos as is unless you have a lot of photos and each has pixel dimensions sizes way over 1920 x 1080 pixels that are giving your computer resource issues. If you have to down size them because of computer resources, then copy the photos to a computer desktop folder and also create an empty folder on the computer desktop.
    a. Photoshop Elements Editor, File Menu/Process Multiple Files.
    Process Files form Folder
    Source - browse to and select the computer desktop folder with photos to be resized
    Destination - browse to and select the empty computer desktop folder
    Image Size
                 Check Mark Next To Resize Images
                (no check mark next to Constrain Proportions)
                Type in Width = 1000  (set units for pixels)
                Type in Height = 750 (set unites for pixels)
    File Size
               Check Mark Next to Convert Files To
               Set for JPEG High Quality
    The above should work fine for a NTSC DV Standard project with a burn to DVD disc with preset NTSC_Dolby DVD (4:3 video).
    2. With regard to the TV Set and 16:9 video....when you have the DVD-player attached to the TV, do you have the opportunity to bring up a display of menus with
    controls for Picture and Aspect Ratio? From what you have written so far, it looks like the answer is no. I am not sure how your TV DVD
    player will handle 16:9.
    Best do a mini test run
    1. Project preset set manually to NTSC DV Widescreen (please refer to post 1 link)
    A few photos sized for 1600 x 1200
    In the Premiere Elements project, use the Safety Margins inner rectangle for text placement
    Publish+Share/Disc/DVD disc with preset = NTSC_Widescreen_Dolby DVD.
    See what that looks like on your TV DVD player.
    If you discovered that your current TV DVD player can be set for a 16:9 display, then I have a preferred workflow for
    NTSC DV Widescreen which typically gives best possible results. Hints of things to come.
    Please review and consider. Thanks for the follow ups.
    ATR

  • Questions on Still Image Export

    I shot a wedding where the photog's Hasselblad failed. Only the first two frames of each roll where successful. I need to export around 100 images as stills. Each time I use QT Conversion I have to select "still images" from the format drop down box. Is there a way to set "still" as a default?
    Secondly, the exported image looks a bit "wide" compared to the images in FCP's canvas. How do I adjust for this. In FCP? In Photoshop? I'm sure this is remedial but I'm a bit of a novice. Thanks in advance for any help.
    Frank, Cranford, NJ

    Studio X wrote:
    2. When you start with DV material, the highest res
    you can get is 720x480 (non-square) or the equivalent
    of a really bad quality cheepo still camera.
    (~640x480 square pixels)
    To avoid the need to deinterlace, (the horrors of
    which are described below) find sections in your
    video that have VERY LITTLE motion, i.e.
    everyone/thing standing/existing absolutely still
    with the camera locked down on a tripod. These
    sections will yield the very best possible still
    images.
    If you have motion, the still images will exhibit
    'tearing' which comes from the two fields of video
    being recorded ~1/60 second apart. The second field
    shows elements displaced from the first field - hence
    a kind of internal image shifting going on. The only
    real way to deal with these kind of images is to
    deinterlace them - that is - decide which field you
    are going to keep and throw away the other.
    When you have deinterlaced the image, you have in
    effect reduced it from a 720x480 image to a 720x240
    image. The image pixel count REMAINS 720x480 but with
    half the vertical information as the remaining lines
    are doubled or interpolated to build back to 480
    lines.
    I take your explanation to mean that when you export a frame from FCE you get both fields. I am confused by the use of the term "de-interlace", since in television displays that term is defined as obtaining a full frame picture either by a) combining the two fields (called "weave"); b) duplicating lines of a single field (called "bob") or c) using some form of interpolation to derive the alternate lines.
    From this point of view, the term "de-interlace" as applied to the filter in FCE does not have the same meaning. Exporting without filtering produces what the TV interpretation would be a picture "de-interlaced" according to process a); applying the de-interlace filter produces an image containing one field only, and de-nterlacing that in Photoshop amounts to the application of either b) or c) above.
    Am I correct on this?
    867 MHz PowerPC G4   Mac OS X (10.3.9)  

  • Need basic "How To" for encoding still images for SD DVD slideshow

    I recently purchased FCS2 and am not very computer savvy. I'm trying to create slideshows in DVD Studio Pro that are standard definition (so they can be played in most players), but are still excellent quality. The images I'm using are high resolution, professionally edited photos (with Adobe CS3 Elements). Once I burn it to a disk the image quality is very poor and after some trouble shooting I think I found my problem, the files are being resized automatically to fit with DVDSP and are losing quality. Can someone give me the quick "how to" with compressor to change my images to the correct settings? I've been reading and watching tutorials, but they all seem to focus more on video than still images. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
    Remember that DVD-Video was designed for CRT TV sets, and was a major step up from VHS tape. However, when viewed on an HD computer monitor, or HD TV *, it is still ONLY 720 x 480, with is about 1/4 of the resolution as 1920 x 1080, which is about what we are used to seeing on those display devices. That is but only 25% of the quality. It can never look as good as HD material.
    Good luck, and if I missed something, please point that out to me.
    Hunt
    * With the advent of BD players, and up-rezzing DVD players, things HAVE improved, when viewing a DVD-Video on an HD TV. The newer players have up-rezzing chips, that do a very good job of "improving" the viewed material's quality. However, even with those amazing chips, DVD-Video will NEVER be as good as a full-HD source. Also, computers do not have those up-rezzing chips, so when one views a DVD-Video on a high-rez computer monitor, it will still look pretty bad. There ARE a couple of new DVD software players, that improve the quality of DVD-Video played on a high-rez computer monitor, and a few look fairly promising. I speculate that we will see some more development in the DVD-Video area, especially as BD is not proving to be the big seller, that many promised. Even 3D is not helping BD realize its promise.

  • Still image export is not exporting interlaced images from interlaced video

    I'm doing some quality tests and the video i have is 60i and i'd like to export stills from the 60i, but when i run it through quicktime conversion>export still image the resulting file has been deinterlaced. i've tried multiple formats and multiple frames, and it's always deinterlaced.
    to restate, the video is interlaced and i want stills that reflect exactly how the video is and fcp is deinterlacing the still exports.

    I usually export stills using the export queue, and I too have noticed that FCP6 now seems to de-interlace and resize the stills to square pixel dimensions automatically. I can't find any way to control or deactivate this option - anyone know?

  • Keeping video proportions during still image export/import

    What I'm doing is exporting a still image to the Mac desktop, then dropping it into Photo-to-Movie where I create pans and zooms on it, then exporting the pan/zoom sequence as a Quicktime movie that I drop back into FCE and splice into the Timeline.
    Trouble is, the image in the pan/zoom sequence always comes back into FCE distorted (elongated), I guess because the exported still image that it was made from reverts to the square pixels during the export process from FCE.
    So, my question is, in what form should I export the still image from FCE so that it retains the proportions it has in the video, so that when I operate on it in Photo-to-Movie and then bring it back into FCE, it still has the proportions of a video (NTSC) image?
    In other words, I need to retain the video (NTSC) image's proportions throughout the process of export, then creating pan/zooms on it in Photo-to-Movie, and then reimporting it into FCE.
    To accomplish this, I presume I have to either export it from FCE in some special NTSC-video-compatible form, or else convert it in Photoshop to an NTSC-compatible image before I drop it into PTM, create the pan/zoom sequence, and then bring that sequence back into FCE.
    I'd be grateful if anyone could suggest a solution to this problem.
    Tom

    Hello Tom Baker 1
    My friend let me tell you something - I TOTALLY share your frustrations, and disgust with the poor results of Keyframe (within FCE).
    I am not a software engineer, but my perseverance to try and try again, is far above average.
    At the risk of getting on a soapbox, (and I can attest to my excellent equipment capability), please believe me, (like yourself), I've paid my dues trying to get Keyframing to work suitably with stills in FCE.
    I think I can safely say, beyond all doubt, if you want to get satisfactory results in regard to pans and zooms, (without being a math major), some options for reliability and smoothness are: 'Photo to Movie' (just as you're doing), Fotomagico, http://boinx.com/fotomagico/overview/, (although I've only heard it's pretty good) - haven't tried it yet.
    OR
    A recent discovery of mine: Lyric Media Pan and Zoom http://www.lyric.com/fcp-plugins/panzoompro/pzp.htm - The really nice thing about this is that it's a FC, or FCE Plug In, and utilizes FC's keyframe software engine. Why is it different than Keyframe by itself in FCE? Because (so far), what I can see is that it sort of fixes the mickey-mousery, herky-jerky nightmare of Keyframe within FCE. To me it sure looks like it can take whatever pixel size you throw at it, (and without being a math major having to apply cautionary resizing to every darn still), it just does the job. Yes it seems to do the re-sizing for you, and consequently produces smooth, reliable motion to stills.
    Of course the advantage to this is that you're finally using an application (within FCE), to create your pans and stills right there. No exporting/importing of QT files as with Photo to Movie, or iMovie. And the parameters of control are more sophicated than Photo to Movie.
    Again, I'm still working with it, and I still need to master it, but it sure beats keyframe.
    One side note:
    I really love the crispness of an iMovie pan or zoom, but we all know by now that it's downfall are the dreaded 'JAGGIES'. As confirmed here on the forum, what seems to make Photo to Movie work so well, is the fact that by it's very nature of design, it automatically smoothes out, and probably reduces or resizes images so that they will NOT produce unwanted glistening (aliasing). And as once said here, your eye will accept this softening of an image, far better than the Jaggies, or the herky jerky.
    With all that said, I hope I didn't rant on too much - as I mentioned, there's nothing like 'experience'.
    Peace
    Mike
    (it would be nice to see someone comment on Lyric Media Pan Zoom Pro)
    PS- an excerpt from the documentary I'm working on:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmB0_qiONQs

  • How do you rip anime dvds with deinterlacing and the same aspect ratio?

    Hi I use clips from anime dvds for a hobby of mine. I have a problem. I can't find the right program or the right instruction to convert my m2v or vob files into crsip clean video clips with deinterlacing and low file space. Is Missing Media Burner the right program? What is the step by step process? If you need anymore detail I will be more than happy to say it. I ripped the clips from MAC the Ripper.
    Hopkins

    Daniel,
    Your first post - and - I wonder how many more to follow?
    Unlesss you have permissions from the copyright© owner of the material you are using for your "hobby" - you are on very dodgy ground.
    If you are a student - working on projects on campus - using the facilities of the University - on found footage - under the auspices of academia - that's different. However, hobby - oh dear oh dear.
    As Shane has quite rightly put - "Hmmmmm...."
    BB

  • Exporting to DVD from PC and blank in MAC????

    Hi - I unfortunately still work on a PC and have tried to export from Lightroom3 to DVD and works fine as long as it is viewed on a PC.  If the user wants to view CD/DVD on a MAC it reads as blank. What am I doing wrong???  Why would lightroom export as window's based versus cross functional?  Thanks!

    Well, here's a copy of the related description from Disk Utility help. Slightly different wording than the referenced link, but the steps are essentially the same.
    To format a disk for Windows computers:
    In Disk Utility, select the disk you want to format for Windows computers.
    Click Erase, and choose MS-DOS (FAT) from the Volume Format pop-up menu.
    Type a name for the disk.
    The name’s maximum length is 11 characters.
    Click the Erase button, and then click Erase again.

  • Images exported to LR4 from Elements and then re-exported back to LR4 do not show up there

    I have just upgraded from elements 6 and LR3 to Elements 11 and LR4.  I export from LR4 to Elements, adjust the image and 'save' as psd.  In LR3 the saved psd would be visible alongside the original image.  That doesn't happen now....which is a real pain.  What can I do to make it happen, please. 

    One possibility is that you accidentally opened a new/different catalog.
    Look at File->Open Recent and open the catalogs shown there and see if your photos appear

  • Still image quality loss b/t viewer and canvas?

    When I import a still (I've tried jpg, tiff, etc), the image quality is perfect in the viewer, but as soon as I lay it down on the timeline it is blurred and foggy. What am I doing wrong? Please, any advice would be helpful, as this is for a job and I can't hand this in as is...

    I'm sorry, I just realized someone else posted a similar quesiton. I jumped the gun.

  • Multiple still images imported (how to change timing AND do multiple transitions)

    I imported into the project resources many still photos.  The defaut time for each seems to be 5.1 second.  If I drag them into the timeline, select them all and change the duration there are time gaps between images...how can I scrunch them together easily OR how can I change the default time duration before I drag them to the timeline?
    Second...if I have all my photos on a timeline can I set the transition effect on more than two at a time?  Can I set the transition for all of them at once (a different query)
    Thanks,  -bill

    I imported into the project resources many still photos.  The defaut time for each seems to be 5.1 second.  If I drag them into the timeline, select them all and change the duration there are time gaps between images...how can I scrunch them together easily OR how can I change the default time duration before I drag them to the timeline?
    When you've selected your still and used the Speed/Duration command, be sure to tick the "Ripple Edit, Shifting Trailing Clips" option in the panel. That will remove any empty space between clips that would otherwise be generated when decreasing the duration of your clips.
    Second...if I have all my photos on a timeline can I set the transition effect on more than two at a time?  Can I set the transition for all of them at once (a different query)
    Yes, though there are two preliminary steps. First, in the Effects panel click the flyout button (that stack of pancakes with the little downward facing arrow) or go to Edit > Preferences > General and select the Default Transition Duration option and change it to your desired setting. Second, in the Effects panel, select the transition you want and right-click it and select "Set Selected as Default Transition".
    Now, select your clips/stills in the timeline and go to Sequence > Apply Default Transitions to Selection; the transition you just set up will be applied to all of your clips. Note that, by default, this will add audio transitions as well, if you're using combined video/audio clips (probably not a worry in your case as you're using stills), but you can hold down the Alt key to select just the video or just the audio portions of your clips, if you only want one transition type or the other. You can also temporarily lock any tracks where you don't want transitions before you use the command.
    Also, since you're working with stills, you don't have to worry about handles; if you import a still into Premiere, even if its duration is only a single frame, you have an indefinite/infinite amount of frames to use for editing and transition purposes. Video/audio clips are a different story, of course...

Maybe you are looking for