Thick Walls

I am moving to an old farm house which has very thick walls my telephone line comes into the house at the front but I want to keep my computer stuff at the back where it doesnt recognise the airport extreme is there anyway of extending the range or does anyone have any ideas ? thanks

You can either:
1) run a wired (ethernet) network to the back of the house and plug in your wireless stuff there, or
2) create a WDS (wireless distribution system) with an Airport Extreme (or Linksys WRT54GL) access point/router
Have a Google, there are a few good tutorials around. I created a WDS which worked very well until my Airport Express died

Similar Messages

What is the best way to extend a Virgin wifi network in a thick walled house?

I have a Virgin Netgear wifi router in a downstairs room at home and get a relatively poor signal in adjacent rooms and none in non-adjacent rooms (i.e. at least one intervening room); it is an old (deep) victorian house with many small rooms!
If I wanted to use Airport Express as a solution, would I need to plug one AE unit into the router and then have one in an adjacent room and then another in the next adjacent room, and so on, creating a "chain" to extend the wifi signal, or would I be better off with a plug-in wifi extending solution via the electric ring mains? For the latter option, I note that I have separate electric circuits for downstairs and upstairs plug sockets (as I believe is normal in most UK homes).
If I do go for an AE chain, I presume that teh lasta nd intervening AE units woudl provide wifi cover?
I am new to Apple and to computer technical issues (having just retired) and so no longer have access to office IT folk.
Thanks in advance.

Apple's extend a wireless network feature works like the hub and spokes of a wheel. The "main" AirPort Express would be the "hub", so it would need to be located in a central area in the home. Other AirPorts....located at the end of separate "spokes".....could extend the wireless signal.
Each extender must communicate directly to the "hub"....not to another device at the end of another "spoke", so your idea of a "chain" to extend the wireless network signal would simply not work.
Since you have thick walls, it is also unlikely that a wireless setup....even with devices placed at optimum locations....would allow the network to perform well.
The best solution in situations like this is always to run Ethernet cabling to other routers from a main router. This way, devices can be located in the exact areas where they are needed to provide more wireless coverage.
Ethernet powerline adapters might be an option if you cannot run the Ethernet cabling. In theory, you already have the wiring in place, you just need the adapters.
In practice, things do not always work as well as the theory might suggest. The bottom line with devices like this is that you cannot know how well.....or if.....they will work until you try them out in your home. Older wiring may not accommodate these devices.
For these reasons, you would want to understand the store's return policy to test a couple of adapters to see how well they perform at various locations around the house.
If they work well during your "tests", then you can purchase more adapters and add AirPorts or other routers to set up the network the way that you want. I am not necessarily recommending that you use Apple products. Virgin might have some solutions that would be much easier to install and configure.
Having one of the IT guys come out to survey your home and offer some suggestions...even if you have to pay a fee.....would be very wise thing to do before you proceed with any potential plan.
The IT guys may spot a potential problem.....something that you have not thought off yet.....that will help you avoid delays and heachaches in the future.

\poor Wi Fi signal - Thick Walls

I live in an old house with very thick walls. Consequently the wi fi signal is very poor from room to room. For my PC I have a Belkin product which sends the wi fi signal through our electric wiring system. Is there something similar that I could connect my ipad to.

Maureen P wrote:
I live in an old house with very thick walls. Consequently the wi fi signal is very poor from room to room. For my PC I have a Belkin product which sends the wi fi signal through our electric wiring system. Is there something similar that I could connect my ipad to.
How does wifi use the wires? I think you need to better describe your setup. Wifi means "wireless" so if you have something that is using your electrical system wires I think it is a wired ethernet system using your wires, not wifi.
So if you have a wifi device connected to a wired ethernet over your electrical system and you computer connects to the device using wifi, your ipad should be able to connect using wifi to the same device.
It would help if you told us the model of the device. "...a Belkin product..." is not enough information for us to know how your network is setup.

Wireless Routers and Thick Walls

Is there any wireless router that can go through brick walls without many degradtion of the signals and such. The router will be for my business so it will have to go to many rooms.
Thanks in advance!

I am an OLD iMac lover who needs to help out in an office where only PC’s live.
We have needed more office for a long time. But a poorly designed building means we cannot rent continuous space. However, thanks to cell phones and laptops we should be able to use NON-continuous space: That is, office space down the hall.
QUESTIONS: 1. Do I need WRT54GX4 Wireless-G Broadband Router with SRX400- - Price Range: $64.99 - $179.99?
2. Would a Wireless-N Broadband Router WRT300N (Price Range: $84 - $150) be better? Or worse?
3. Do I need anything (besides wire) to install and use the thing? The current office has two PC's on network. Cable modem. Hardwired. The proposed new room about 200 ft down the hall will have one or two laptops.
Any help Much Appreciated. Kay
Message Edited by MommaKay on 04-06-2008 01:20 AM
Message Edited by MommaKay on 04-06-2008 01:25 AM

Is it okay to "wall-mount" an Airport Time Capsule sideways?

Just bought a new Airport Time Capsule to replace an older "flying saucer" Airport Express. Is it okay to mount the ATC sideways? My main concern is the internal HD. is there a problem with an HD spinning sideways over an extended period of time? Any other reason I should not mount it sideways?
A bit more explanation (only if you are wondering why I need to mount it sideways):
I need to mount the ATC on a wall because placing it in the hallway is the only way I get full signal strength throughout my apartment (old building with thick walls and lots of corners). I am using the old AE mounting bracket with zip ties, at least until I can determine a better way and/or location. Sideways mount determined by how the mount works and how the wiring is fed into the unit. I guess Apple decided that users would simply put these things on their desks or bookshelves.
Thanks in advance!

Thanks Bob, I just got off the phone with Applecare, and they said for optimal signal strength, the unit should be mounted upright. But I was told if I am getting a good signal as set up, there's no reason to change it since there is no risk to the HD.
Regarding airflow—good point. I did take that into consideration. The vents appear to be on the bottom of the unit, so mounting the unit sideways leaves that surface completely open. So I don't think airflow would be impeded. Here, I am making an assumption about how the engineers intended the ATC to work. When I have the time, I'll build a small shelf to wall mount the unit in it's upright position.
Thanks—this is the type of info I am looking for. I'd like the unit to last a while before I have to replace it.

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

Mac Mini 2012 Poor Wifi

Hi All,
I've had my 2012 Mac Mini (the basis of my home music recording setup) about 9-10 months and always had poor wifi connection. Download speeds are terrible and it can take hours to download a few MBs
My provider is Sky Fibre Broadband with the Sky Hub. It's all less than 12 months old. It doesn't seem to have the 5ghz option that's been mentioned.
Another point to note is that the signal isn't trying to penetrate several thick walls, the Sky hub is in the next room less than 10 metres away with a direct line of sight through 2 doorways.
I've been through everything in this thread Intermittent and slow Wi-Fi connection on Mac Mini Solved! to no avail. I've tried turning off monitors, speakers, hard drives, bluetooth (even though I need to use this to connect my iPad for studio use). It's completely unusable. I even have the sky booster for the wifi sat next to the Mac and it makes no difference. My Mac Mini is updated to latest OS X Mavericks which took a very long time to download!
The only thing left for me to try is running a long ethernet cable from the sky hub to see how it is wired. This I am going to do today when I'be been to buy a cable as it's not convenient and unworkable to strip down my home studio to move it to another room.
Yesterday I spent a long time on the phone to apple support and they seem to think there's a problem with my home network and interferance. We went through all sorts, deleting startups items, caches and so on
Although every other device in my home works absolutely fine. These include Windows 8 laptop, Google Nexus, LG G2 Android Phone, iPhone 4s, 2x iPod 4th Gen, Xbox 360, PS3, LG Smart TV, iPad Air. Note these aren't all on at the same time!
It did connect using the iPhone 4s as a hotspot to test which is why Apple insist there is no problem with the hardware, although the WiFi doesn't pick up any other local networks available for example my neighbours of which there are around 8 I can see on other devices.
Any thoughts?
Out of interest does anyone think getting an Apple Airport Express, connecting it to the Sky Hub but connecting my Mac to Airport rather than the Sky Hub directly would work? In effect creating an isolated connection from the other devices in the house? Maybe they will take to each other in a nicer way. I'm a bit confused by what I can do with the Airport and want to afford splashing out on different routers etc. Trying to get them to work on Sky I can just feel the headache!
Thanks in advance, hope the above is enough info

If you ALT+Click on the Mini WiFi icon in the menu bar, you should see a 'Open Wireless diagnostics'. If you click on it and press command+2, it will bring up a utilities window.
There are two functions that you should consider. Wi-Fi Scan and Performance. There is also Logging, Frame Capture and Info. You can look at these and analyze what may be issues with your Mini.

New MacBook attempting to connect to 3rd party wireless n router

I was wondering if anyone might have a few suggestions for me getting a MacBook 2.16 GHz running Mac OS X 10.5.1 connected to a third-party 802.11n wireless access point.
The router is a cheap AirLink 101 N router. I have no problems when the router is set to mixed g/b. I am
The issues start to arise when I start introducing n protocols. If I set the router to mixed g/b/n, I can connect and the network utility will show n speed, but I start having wireless network deafness. Seems connection is lost at times for a few minutes and then comes back. The speed of my network applications such as browsing also seems to slow down. Takes images longer to load. If I set the router to n only, I can never connect. I have tried disabling wireless security and that does not help. I have also tried all other security settings. I just can never connect. I haven't played with the other settings. I have a new iMac that when the router is set to n only will not connect either.
If anyone has suggestions, I would love to try them. I am seriously considering purchasing the AirPort Extreme N, but I don't like to give up on something when I am having problems.
Thanks,

I'm using Netgear Rangemax DG834 which works great for a Macbook and a PC. Good range in a big house with thick walls and well into the garden. Setup and maintenance is simple.
Having some trouble getting the Macbook to hook up to the network automatically on startup, but that's a Mac not a router problem.
If you want to go for wireless printing then I'd use all Apple stuff as it seems easier to hang together - I've tried a couple of wireless printer servers which were expensive and generally useless.
Cheers

How do I set up ethernet network having attached a MoCA adaptor from cable inlet into modem? It seems I need a "self assigned IP"?

I live in an old apartment building with very thick walls, and have a miserably spotty wireless network. In hopes of creating an undisturbed ethernet network for my computer and various other gadgets, I purchased two ActionTec Moca adapters, and set it up as suggested in a helpful review on Amazon: put one MOCA adapter "upstream" to the cable modem. The incoming coax with the Internet signal would plug into the MOCA "in" port then the MOCA's "out" coax goes into the coax on the cable modem. Then the LAN port on this MOCA goes into a LAN port on the switch/router. The Ethernet port on the modem goes into the WAN port on the same router. This "triangle" of connections is confusing to someone who is not networking savvy because they assume that all network connections have to be linear." The adaptors light up as they are meant to, indicating that the signal is there, and my iMac tells me thatDiagnostics window tells me that the internet connection appears to be working correctly." Only the little button in the Network Diagnostics panel next to 'Network Settings" is yellow. When I run the Setup Assistant, it says that "You cannot connect to ISP automatically, so you need to enter information to set up your connection. Selec the appropriate item then enter the required information. If you don't kow the infromation, contact your ISP." I checked "I have a DHCP Client ID and entered my IP address as copied from the network panel. It said congratulations you are now connected to the internet!" But then no browser window window would open, and Safari said "you are no longer connected to the internet". What did I do wrong?

I wouldn't expect the oMoCa adaptors to issue IP numbers, simply act as a passthrough to get the connection to the modem. It's not clear how you've got this set up or how the Airport comes into it.
From what you say the modem has several ethernet outputs - is this correct? - then you are directly connect to it by cable; and possibly an Airport Extreme is also connected to it.
Unless you are connected to the Airport either by cable or wireless it doesn't come into your own connection, though other computers may be connected through it.
If all this is as I described the modem must issue the IP numers and the Airport must have 'Connection sharing' in the 'Internet' section (after clicking 'Manual setup) set to 'Off (bridge mode)'. Then it simply passes the IP numbers issued by the modem through to any computers connected through it.
If the modem has only one ethernet output socket then it will be connected to a router (either the Airport or something else) through which everything else is connected, and that router should be set to issue the IP numbers as the modem will simply pass through the IP number issued by the ISP.
Whatever set up you have, you can only have one device issuing IP numbers or problems will result.
Your own Mac should be set to 'obtain an IP number automatically' or 'Use DHCP' (the same thing, and don't use 'DHCP with manual address). The number you are issued with will be in the 'local use' range, probably beginning with 192, and is not the same as the IP number seen by the outside world.

Home wireless connection

Hi,
Product name: HP Touchsmart
Product number : WC949AA-ABU
Model number: 300-1125uk
Operating on Windows 7
I just got wireless broadband in my flat. It works fine - my Ipad and
my housemate's laptop can pick up the signal very strongly - but my HP
TouchSmart PC cannot pick it up.
I installed the broadband using the HP, with the help of the setup CD
the broadband provider sent me. I can pick up other broadband signals
on the HP - my neighbours' signals, for example - so it's just my own
that I can't pick up! It isn't behind any thick walls or anything.
Also, I hooked up the computer to the router using a cable
and it worked fine, so there's obviously just something wrong with the wireless aerial in the HP PC.
Any suggestions of what to try?
Thanks!

Hi robertcoppin:
Well you answered your own question but gave your self the wrong answer. If it was your computers signal then you would not be picking up your neighbors router box signal would you? So your computer is fine o.k. What I would do is go to your nieghbors house and ask them if they would be kind enough to help you set up your wirless connection with you. I know I had to set mine to sid number there are other options were listed in Control pannel , managing wireless net works. You probably have it on the wroung settings. You can call your internet provider to help you connect your computer to their router. In order to for me to connect to our router we had to call our Internet provider so they could verify our computers as they were being connected. Check with your housemate he will be able to connect you no problem just match his settings off his lap top to your Touchsmart.

X220 complete fan failure

I've had my X220 for about a year now. At first, I didn't experience any problems with the fan, no revving up/down like some describe, and it was pretty quiet.
After about 9 months of usage, the fan started to get pretty noisy. As I also usually have a room fan always on, I didn't care much because the room fan overpowered the laptop fan.
Then, at about 10 months ago, one fine day CoreTemp pops up a message that my CPU temp is critical, I was just watching a movie with no background stuff going on. I've checked TPFanControl and the fan wasn't running. It was also not responding to TPFanControl's smart or manual modes.
I turned off the laptop, removed the keyboard and powered it on again. The fan would spin a few revs at pretty low speed, then just stop. I allowed the system to boot like that, and tried to start the fan with TPFanControl's manual mode. When I switched the fan from speed 0 to any other speed, I could see the fan blades to move just a little bit (maybe 1mm) and then stop again.
The laptop is on warranty, but I bought it in USA, and I live in Thailand now. Also this is my primary work computer and I didn't want any unnecessary downtime, so I decided to fix it myself.
I wrote quite a lot, those not interested in the disassembly story, just skip the next paragraph.
Well, luckily I decided not to sell my old Z61m, I booted it up to view the X220 Hardware Maintenance Manual: http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/x220_x220i_hmm_0a60739_06.pdf
Using an old laptop, which one year ago didn't feel slow, after being accustomed to the new one, was really sluggish. Part of the reason might be that I recently installed Windows 7 on it (it's got 4Gb RAM in it, of which the chipset can only use 3Gb). By the way, one time I had my Z61m's fan become really noisy, too (but never fail completely), I did disassemble, clean and oil the fan - and getting to the fan was much easier than on X220.
On X220 to get to the underside of the fan, you have to remove the motherboard, the heatsink assembly is screwed to the motherboard from it's underside. That's wasn't hard for me, but I could easily see messing up some small component. To remove the motherboard, I had to remove the HDD, speakers, bluetooth module, WiFi module, mSATA SSD, disconnect a few flat-ribbon connectors, unclip a few regular connectors, free the wifi antenna cables, video cable from their grooves in the bezel, remove the bezel. And then the motherboad still wouldn't come off - the two nuts holding the VGA connector have to be removed. And when I moved to Thailand, I didn't bring my 5mm hex socket with me. So I had to drive around (I live in a small city), trying to find it. Tool shops, hardware shops, computer shops didn't have it! Well, a tool shop had a huge kit of 1/4" DR tools, I wasn't gonna spend so much money just to get one 5mm socket. In the end I could find a low quality 1/4" DR sockets set in a Tesco supermarket, for $2. But what do you know? The cheap sockets have thick walls, so the wall thickness doesn't allow it to fit around the nut (the laptop's case is in the way). Too bad I don't have a lathe... well here comes the drill to hold the socket and the angle grinder. Finally I was able to unscrew the nuts and take out the motherboard.
To get out the audio connector from it's hole in the case, I have to flex the motherboard quite a lot, I know it's fiberglass and strong, but it does feel quite scary (the narrowest part of the mainboard is just maybe an inch wide).
I then tilted the motherboard up disconnected the power cable (it's a bit tricky, but I think it's the most efficient way - some say to remove the LCD to do that! that's totally unnecessary), took the motherboard out and unscrewed the heatsink/fan assembly.
The fan would turn by hand or by blowing air into it, but wouldn't keep rotating as soon as I stop blowing. The blades are fortunately removable (just grab them and pull), I cleaned them and the insides with some methyl alcohol, let it dry, then put some TriFlow teflon oil in there and put the blades back on. I then put everything back together, and it worked fine. Assembly, as usual, is the reverse of disassembly. The fan works, and is pretty quiet again (I'd say about the same as it was new).
The fan is sleeve bearing. I think it's not a good practice to put sleeve bearing fans into laptops. When a ball bearing fan fails, it just rotates at reduced speed, with plenty of noise and vibration. Giving a lot of warning time that it should be replaced. A sleeve bearing fan can just stop turning completely, not making any noise to indicate failure. It's very fortunate that CPUs (and some other hardware) have automatic overheat protection (thermal throttling). I suppose Lenovo just had some temporary problem sourcing the necessary qty of ball bearing fans when they were producing X220, so they just put in an alternative they could find. I don't think they did this just to save $1 per laptop. In any case, my advices for X220 owners is, if your fan has become noisier than before, open it up and clean/oil it, better now than later. I would only advise this job to people who have straight hands growing from the right place, not from their ass (that's a saying we have in Russia). There is nothing really difficult about this job (first time will take 2-3 hours, with experience you can do the whole job in under 1 hour), but you have to be careful. There are a lot of small parts that can be dropped or damaged by static electricity. There are many screws of different sizes that can be mixed up (my advise is to use a small container with multiple compartments, and put the screws into different compartments, along with a piece of paper saying where does this group of screws go. Have to be very careful disconnecting the connectors, especially the flat ribbon type. No sharp or metal tools should be used for this task! Use only fingernails or something plastic. Also use care to properly align the flat ribbon cables when connecting (locking) them. It's good to take pictures of the whole process, especially things like cable routing. You'll thank yourself for this when putting it back together. The hardware maintenance manual is also pretty useful (might be not so easy to find the right info, though, have to read carefully). Print it or use another computer or a mobile device to access it when doing the job. As noted, you will need a 5mm thin-wall socket (any good quality 1/4" DR socket will be thin wall, while cheap nasty stuff will be thick wall) to unscrew the VGA connector. The nuts are not tight from the factory (at least mine were not), so you might be able to use another tool, but I think even the smallest needle-nose pliers won't fit there, there's really too little room between the nuts and the case. A sturdy tweezers with round ends (or cut off ends) might do the job, but I'm a believer in using a proper tool for a job, at least when talking about a $1000 computer (this is not very Russian of me, where a common tool for automotive repair is often a hammer and a block of wood; a saying goes: if you fail - use a bigger hammer). Obviously you also need a small-size electronics screwdriver.
A thing I had a problem with: the heatsink contacts both CPU and the chipset (which is common in notebooks), there was thermal compound on the CPU and a thermal pad on the chipset (I would say 0.5mm thick). Unfortunately I tore up the pad when removing the heatsink. If you're careful, usually you can reuse the pad. The pad is there for the reason that the CPU and the chipset surfaces are not on the same plane, so if assembled with just a super-thin layer of thermal compound (like you're supposed to for optimal heat conduction), the chipset wouldn't touch the heatsink and would overheat. Since I didn't have a spare thermal pad on hand, I used a thick layer of thermal compound (I used Arctic Silver 5, which is pretty thick consistency and not very likely to flow out of there) on the chipset. I also ordered some thermal pads on eBay, to have it just in case.
I haven't noticed any significant decrease in temperatures with the new thermal compound, even after 200 engine hours the AS5 needs for optimal performance. It might be cooler by a couple of degrees, but not by much.
I'm sorry I deleted the pics I took during disassembly.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

A .5mm layer of thermal paste will not do a very good job of heat conduction. There will be air bubbles. No matter how well you spread out the thermal paste on the CPU die, you will never get the kind of even, thin layer that you get with a new fan, which comes with lots of little dots. BTW, very small needle-nosed pliers work fine to start the VGA nuts. The first time I take a particular model apart, I tape the screws near the place the will go back using "painter's masking tape", which leaves no adhesive residue.

StarWalk compass stopped working with their most recent update.

My favorite application on my iPad used to be Starwalk. Ever since their most recent update on April 30, the internal compass stopped working (which is basically the backbone of the entire app). I contacted Vito technology (the developer) - it took a long time to get a response, but after several efforts they finally replied that there was a flaw in the iPad's internal Magnetometer, that it had nothing to do with their software, and there was nothing they could do about it - I should take it up with Apple. The app worked perfectly until their most recent update. I looked at their reviews/comments and numerous people were making the exact same complaint, and everyone said it stopped working as the result of the April 30 Starwalk update. I have one friend with a 3G iPad and the app still works fine for him. I have another friend with a wiFi version like me, and the app ALSO stopped working for him on April 30. So I understand not all iPads are affected.
So am I supposed to take this up with Apple now and tell them there is a flaw in their magnetometer that caused StarWalk to break as of their last update, and see if they can fix all our devices?
I don't believe Vito's assertion that their software is not at fault (considering so many people are complaining in their negative reviews that the last update triggered this breakage).
I'm frustrated and wonder if anyone else is experiencing this. Starwalk used to be my favorite app, and its even more frustrating to listen to the developer tell me its a device flaw that's been there all along, when me and many other people all had simultaneous magnetometer problems develop on April 30 - the moment we installed their last update.

Just that I have the latest from April 30 and there are no updates that are available to me. I guess you have the wifi only version as I do? I can't quite figure out why this would be affecting some people and not others. If you go to the StarWalk page on iTunes you'll see the list of people complaining about the same thing. In iTunes it also says my iPad software is up to date (I assume that means the OS/firmware).
So do you guys think this is something I take up with StarWalk or Apple? I feel a little ripped off that Vito has sold me a $6 app (granted that is not much) that has stopped working, and they are telling me its a flaw in the device.
I'll paste the response I received from Vito below. Bear in mind that although they say this has nothing to do with their software, all of the people who are complaining had a functioning app before April 30, and it stopped working as soon as we made that update.
Thank you for taking time to send us your feedback, it is highly appreciated.
In specific circumstances iPhone/iPad digital compass (magnetometer) may operate with difficulties, essentially causing errors in all applications that rely on its data.
Unfortunately, we cannot fix this particular problem, because it is caused by the digital compass malfunction and has nothing to do with our software. However, we are happy to offer you directions which may help you avoid experiencing this inconvenience in the future.
For better functioning of the digital compass consider doing the following:
1) Tilt your device from landscape to portrait orientation several times. This will help the digital compass recalibrate itself and calculate current position.
2) Make sure the compass is not obstructed by thick walls of buildings or large amounts of metal nearby. Try going outside.
3) Consider trying again later. Sometimes it is unclear what may be influencing the magnetometer.
If you need more information, please read the magnetometer specifications below.
We hope that these simple instructions were of help. Please don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
Sincerely,
Vito Technology Support Team
For more information:
Wikidia article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_compass :
"A magnetometer is a scientific instrument used to measure the strength and/or direction of the magnetic field in the vicinity of the instrument. Magnetism varies from place to place and differences in Earth's magnetic field (the magnetosphere) can be caused by the differing nature of rocks and the interaction between charged particles from the Sun and the magnetosphere of aplanet. Magnetometers are a frequent component instrument on spacecraft that explore planets."

I'd like to alter my Airport Extreme/Airport Express wireless network so that the 3 Expresses connect to the Extreme via Ethernet. I've been told this will create a more stable wifi signal. How do I configure this using Airport Utility? Thanks.

I currently have an Airport Extreme Base Station connected to my DSL router by Ethernet. Because I have a long, sprawling home, I have 3 Airport Expresses configured to "Extend the Wireless Network" I've established. Because of my home environment--thick walls encompassaing wire mesh, sprawling rooms, etc., it is hard to maintain a continuously-strong, stable WiFi signal. I've been told that I can create a much more stable network by connecting the Express units to the AEBS via Ethernet cable. Since my home is already wired for Ethernet, I'm considering making this change. If I proceed to establish the Ethernet connections, how do I then set up Airport Utility to accomodate this switch from a Wireless-based WiFi network to an Ethernet-based WiFi network?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Phyllis

I don't see anyplace in the Utility to designate HOW the Express units are connected, only how they relate on the network to the Extreme,
As I mentioned in the previous post, when you click the Internet icon in AirPort Utility:
Connect Using = Ethernet (This tells each Express to connect to the Extreme using the ethernet connection)
Connection Sharing = Off (Bridge Mode) (This setting allows your AirPort Extreme to function as the "main" router on the network, as it must for the setup to work correctly.
You do not need to configure anything differently on the AirPort Extreme (as long as it is working correctly now) to connect the AirPort Express devices.
The only other question I have is the following: I'm currently already using one of the Ethernet ports on the back of the Extreme-- for my husband's iMac. I really don't think he gains much in performance over how the iMac would run through wifi, so I could disconnect the iMac. If you think the iMac would do better to stay on the Ethernet connection, should I use a switch/splitter to add an extra connection?
Since each AirPort Express must connect using ethernet, you will need to use the 3 LAN <-> ports on the AirPort Extreme for the AirPort Express devices.
I would suggest that you try connecting the iMac using wireless to see if that will work. If the wireless connection is not satisfactory, then you can add a 5 port ethernet switch to one of the LAN ports on the Extreme and then plug all the devices connecting using ethernet....the iMac and the 3 AirPort Express devices...into the remaining 4 ports on the switch. That will leave you with 2 open ports on the AirPort Extreme for any future devices that may need to connect.
When you test out the system, here is a trick to find out which device your computer is actually connecting to at any given time as it "roams" around the house.
When you have AirPort Utility open to configure each AirPort Express, jot down the AirPort ID for each Express. You can do the same for the AirPort Extreme.
As you move around with your laptop, hold down the option key on your Mac keyboard while you click on the fan shaped AirPort icon at the top of the screen. Look for the BSSID. That is the AirPort ID of the device that the laptop is connected to at that time. it should also be the ID of the closest AirPort Express (or AirPort Extreme if the laptop is close to the Extreme at the time).
Let us know how things are working when everything is up and running.

Setting Up a Three Station (Multiple AirPort Express Units) WDS Network

For a mission project in Northern Ireland, I am trying to connect three Airport Express units into a single wireless system. The mission group is located in an old building with thick walls, so the wireless signal needs to be "repeated." I need help on the basics of setting up all three AX units in a series. One will be located in an office on the ground floor an act as the main base station with an ethernet connection. (The mission has a cable modem/router with an independent line in the ofice that is connected directly to the AX unit in the office.) The second will need to act as a relay base station(it will be on the second floor of the building, but in range of the main base station) and the third as a remote base station down a hall on the second floor. In an initial setup, I was unable to have the main base station unit show up on the list of base statios when I did a scan in the AirPort Admin Utility.
Should I set up (configure) all three AX units in close proximity to each other and then relocate them to the final locations? I also need some advice on how to identify or assign the AirPort MAC Adress to the units. Finally, do I need to do a "hard reset" on the units and simply start over? I saw the Apple article on using WDS to create a network from multiple base stations, but it only dealt with two units. Thanks. Sawyerlex
iBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.6)
iBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Check out my last post in this thread:
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=1756749

Time Capsule vs Airport Express & Sky Broadband

Hi,
I currently have a MacBook Pro 13'' 4GB i5. I also have a wifi 16GB iPad 3rd Gen, an iPhone 6, and an iPhone 5S and 5 in my household.
I have never back up my MacBook which I am concerned about as a friend of mine just lost their entire hard drive to a malfunction, I know this is rare but I don't want to take the chance of losing everything.
Also my Internet with Sky, more the router, is having trouble giving a a good signal to my flat, mainly the living room. It is a basement flat with very thick walls, which I guess is the problem. My Sky router is currently in the office, the other end of the flat, going through 2 brick walls and a partition wall. I was wondering whether a Time Capsule (2GB) would help me with signal issues, or would I have to get an Airport Express and place this closer to the living room?
Also do I have to use the ethernet cable to connect the Time Capsule? Or can I set it up wirelessly, negating the need for an Airport Express as I can place the Time Capsule closer to the living room?
Cheers
Huw118

If possible, I would recommend that you connect the Time Capsule directly to the Sky router using an Ethernet connection, then use an AirPort Extreme or AirPort Express to extend the Time Capsule wireless signal.
Performance wise, it is much better to "extend" by connecting the AirPort Extreme or Express to the Time Capsule using a wired Ethernet connection if at all possible, since wireless extension will always result in a drop of about half of the potential speed on the entire network.
Try to keep the Time Capsule at least 6-8 feet or a few meters away from the Sky router to help minimize the chances of wireless interference occurring between the two devices. Later on, if you discover that having two wireless access points is creating interference issues, you will need to look at turning off the wireless function on either the Sky router or Time Capsule.

Thick Walls

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