Thinkpad power supply suggestion

I didn't see anyplace else to submit a suggestion to your product engineers, so I thought someone would eventually see it here
I have several Thinkpads at home, one at work (that lives mostly in a docking station), and an assortment of non-Lenovo laptops and netbooks.  Yes, I know I have too many computers.
I keep having to replace the Thinkpad power supplies at home because the cable breaks internally right at the big yellow-tipped plug where it flexes.  I just ordered a new on off eBay this morning because my old one died suddenly -- it's not ever intermittent this time like usual.  Older Thinkpads with the small diameter power plug had the same problem, but failed less often.  If you would use a right-angle plug instead of a straight plug (a lot of the netbooks do this) there would be less strain on the wire because it's not sticking out the back of the PC so far and the molded 90° plug would help provide support.  The netbook power cords never fail even tho' they are subjected to harder use.  The cost of the part should be about the same.
Thanks for listening,
Bob

Nobody from Lenovo actually reads these, do they?

Similar Messages

  • Power supply suggestions for K7N2G-ILSR

    Can anyone offer suggestions for a good solid pwr supply for this board? I recently bought a low-end one and believe it may be my problem. What I have and will be returning is a Raidmax 400w. The specs are:
    Model PM-S400W ATX12V
    Input: 115VAC/230VAC 12A/7A 60Hz/50Hz
    +3.3V, +5V, +12V, -5V, -12V, +5Vsb
    28.0A, 30.0A, 15.0A, 0.5A, 0.8A, 2.0A
    Suspend mode: Under 27W
    Sleeping mod: Under 30W
    That's about all the info I have on this PSU.
    K7N2G-ILSR NForce2
    AMD 2400+
    Seagate Barracuda V Serial ATA (80gig)
    2 X 256 Mushkin Enhanced PC-3200 DDR
    LightOn 52X CD-RW
    Radeon 7000 Pro 128 mg DDR

    After many attempts to get games to run, upgrading bios, drivers ete.... I was able to get MSI Tech Support on the phone.  We tried changing bus speeds, swapping memory, with AGP card w/o etc....
    Nothing seemed to work.  The tech guy basically told me to RMA the board back with the reseller.
    After doing that, I looked more into what else could cause the problem.  I had already purchased new memory because I was using Kingston 512 2700 DDR, and purchased the Mushkin 2 X 256 PC 3200.  More and more research pointed to the power supply.  So I may have jumped the gun by sending the board back without researching fully what could cause the problem.  I guess you live and learn.   ?(

  • Elite e9150t - upgrading coolingfan/heatsink and power supply (suggestions for upgrade?)

    Hey guys, 
    I don't know why I didn't come here first, but here I am.
    Basically, I have the HP elite e9150t model. Great computer... I've already upgraded a few things, but I am looking to do another little upgrade and would love to get some input. It's also Windows 8.1 Pro.
    Alright, I've upgraded the ram to two 8gb kingston chips. I've also upgraded the video card to a GeForce 660 GTX. Now I am looking to upgrade my power supply and cooling unit. I've been running into problems where my computer will start to overheat when playing games. I can render out things easily enough with 3D software like Maya, but games make the system chug. That's why I've decided to upgrade the cooling unit and figured I should do the same for my power supply as well since it still has the 460w unit. I'd love to get this ugpraded to the point that I can play games with high settings and not worry about my computer dying on me from heat related injuries. I'm not looking to play games like Watch Dogs at the highest setting. I'd LOVE to have that, but I doubt I could squeeze that out right now. I would, however, love to play a game like Wildstar on their ultra setting (which I feel should be doable with my system).
    Also, I am pretty much ignorant when it comes to computer hardware. When I say this, I am not exaggerating. I really have no idea what I am doing when it comes to this part of computers. Here are the two items that were suggested to me. Keep in mind, that I am on a budget right now (starting a new job next week after graduating this past week), so this is about what I can afford (this ~price range). I've also added a fan to the side panel of the computer (well I didn't, but the guy I bought it from did).
    First is the power supply:
    XFX TS Series P1550SXXB9 550W ATX12V 2.2 & ESP12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Active PFC Power Supply
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013
    550 Watt for ~$25 after rebate. Can't beat that and the people that recommended it were saying that it's made by a great company (SeaSonic?)
    And the cooling unit:
    Cooler Master Hyper T4 - CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103182&cm_re=Cooler_Master_Hyper_T4-_-35-10...
    It was actually suggested I get the TX3, but I saw that the TX3 does not support LGA 1336 that the HP has.
    1) Case size: I've tried googling what type of case I have because it seems like that is the jelly to any peanut butter question on power supplies and/or cooling units. Will my suggested items fit in the case I have? It looks like a tight fit in there, so I don't know how well they'll fit.
    2) Are the recommended items good: Again, I don't know anything about this stuff and am going purely off recommendations. Are these the items that I do need? 
    3) Another thing bugging me about the video card: Not exactly on topic, but I have the GeForce card in there right now and it's huge. I also have a sound card, but the way the PCI slots are setup, I have to put the sound card directly over the GeForce card (and the Geforce card has a fan on top of it blowing up). This has the heat blowing directly to the sound card. I don't know if this is what I want to do? I read somewhere that I want the video card closest to the heatsink? Could I reverse the order and have the sound card below the video card and still get away with it? It's a nice sound card and it's being wasted right now (not even in the computer).
    Alright, thanks guys. I know I wrote a **bleep** essay here, but I wanted to be detailed as possible. Thanks again for those that stuck through the whole thing lol...

    Hi,
    I suggest that you do some measuring from the top of the processor to bottom of the removable side panel. You need this measurement to determine if your chosen heat sink cooling  will fit.
    When you install the new power supply then install it fan up pointing to top so that is draws cool air into the power supply from the top side air intake vents.  Measure your existing power supply and look for a high efficiency model with a large fan that will fit in your PC.  If you can find a PSU with a 140 mm fan that will fit then go for it.
    Additional cooling ideas: PCI slot cooling fan and vented PCI slot covers.
    Your particular PC probably has a single width graphics just link my e9280t (same cabinet and mobo).
    BTW--the truckee mobo is not spec'd for 8 GB dimms.
    You have made lots of changes already to your PC so  saying that you know very little appears to be underestimating your own ablities.
    HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
    HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
    HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
    Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
    Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
    Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

  • Hp 500-319NA I5 600w power supply suggestions

    I am looking for a power supply that will fin into my case because I have just ordered a new graphics card(nvidia gtx 750 ti windforce) which need an extra 400 watts of power. I would love it if anyone could recommend any power supply's for my issue

    Hi, If your PC is not using an external power cube (brick) then you have many choices. The Corsair CX600 would be an excellent choice for a power supply. Another good choice would be the Corsair CS650m.

  • Using ThinkPad Power Supply

    I have an S10 (and really like it a lot). The input states 20v 2.0A. I have a mess of power supplies lying around for TP R51 which output 16v 4.5A. Would it be ill-advised to use said power supply?
    Thanks.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Hi, not only have the S10e, ive own an TP X32 too , i try the psu it works  16V x 4,5 72W , 20V x 2A 40W
    ...when you accidently change the psu plugs...it cant be damaged your S10 is the quintessence...
     takes only the power that S10 needs...not what psu possible gaves output.....
    Greets KalvinKlein
    Message Edited by KalvinKlein on 02-27-2009 10:23 PM
    Thinkies 2x X200s/X301 8GB 256GB SSD @ Win 7 64
    Ideas Centre A520 ,Yoga 2 256GB SSD,Yoga 2 tablet @ Win 8.1

  • The Power Supply Fan is still working, but does not appear to respond to increased loads, and its speed cannot be increased using SMCFanControl. Any suggestions?

    Hi all - My mac pro 1,1 has an enigmatic problem. It's quad-core, 3Ghz, running OS X 10.7.5. The problem began some months back, when running HD video conferences, HD streaming videos and some other graphics-moderate (I won't say intense) uses, such as slide shows in Just Looking. My machine has an ATY, RadeonX1900 card and 2 monitors - both Apple displays, one being 30 inch 2560x1600, the other being 24 inch 1920x1200.
    When I start those types of graphics-moderate apps, after about 5 minutes, something would crash (the monitors making a noise as it did) and the displays would both go black. The power did not appear to be fully cut off from the monitors. I think that the underlying applications, however, did not crash. So, I could still hear and speak to people during video conferences, and I could hear the sound tracks of videos.
    Attempts to restart the computer and get the monitors back did not immediately work to undo the problem, if done straight away. The only way to correct the problem (so as to have the monitors work) was to wait for a few minutes and then restart.
    After a lot of puzzled looking at console logs (and I confess that I am not an expert), I ran into a blank.
    But, because of the timing of the crashes (after ~5minutes use) and restarts (after some minutes wait), I reasoned that the problem might be temperature related.
    Once on that path of thought, I found this article:
    http://worldtv.com/blog/guides_tutorials/fixing_an_overheating_mac_pro_no_expens e_required.php
    I installed both Temperature Monitor and SMCFanControl. And I experimented, and got interesting results:
    Now to the puzzling bit: SMCFanControl shows that the speed of the Power Supply Fan doesn't vary much, even if I use SMCFanControl to ramp fan speeds right up. All of the other fans react to SMCFanControl, going up to and above 2500rpm when commanded. But the Power Supply Fan does not.  Having watched it for a few days now, the Power Supply Fan, according to AFCFanControl, never varies outside of a range from about 600-640 rpm, regardless of what I do with AFCFanControl.
    Also (and not surprisingly), whenever the graphics-moderate apps run, when I ramp all the fan speeds up using SMCFanControl, Temperature Monitor shows that the all of the temperatures within the machine plummet, except in the power supply locations. Power Supply Location 2 is the worst affected. Because the Power Supply Fan does not react as the other fans do, the "crashes" still occur.
    I could post some screen shots of the read outs of SMCFanControl and Temperature Monitor, although I think I have covered the key points in this post.
    It seems that the Power Supply Fan is still working, but does not respond to increased loads.
    Instinctively, I'm worried that if that's right, it might be a hard problem to fix. Any suggestions? Help! I would really appreciate them!
    Cheers
    P

    Thanks for your response Grant. I had already read about, and I think excluded, dust in graphics card/fan/assembly as a cause. The entire inside of the computer, including the graphics card/fan/assembly, is as clean as a whistle. It looks clean. I've cleaned the dust out every now and then (including a few days ago). Also, my undersanding (derived from the article, linked in my first post) is that I might expect to see high temperatures in the Northbridge and memory module B if the graphics card was overheating. According to Temperature Monitor, however, locations do not increase in temperature when I run the relevant apps. Finally, the graphics card/assembly does not feel too hot to touch.
    It is strange that SMCFanControl lists the Power Supply Fan as being software controllable, if that fan is not. Still, your comments are consistent with my observations, as the fan simply does not respond to software control.
    There are two upsides: First, I've something of a work-around. I've worked out what temperature must be achieved in Power Supply Location 2 for a crash to occur, and I can watch that location in Temperature Monitor, terminating the process before that treshold is reached. Of course, that's not ideal. Second, ramping all the other fans up does significantly delay the onset of the problem, and makes recovery time much quicker.
    Is there any donwside to peridically ramping up the other fans when running the relevant apps? Given that it causes all of the other locations to cool significantly, could this lessesn the life expecancy of the mahcine? (I don't want to run the fans up all the time - that's like sitting next to a jet ready for take off!)
    Also, a correction to my first post: Yesterday, with all the other fans running on full and running an HD streaming video, the Power Supply Fan did, eventually, slowly, come up to ~740rpm, which is much higher than the ~640rpm maximum I had previously seen, and this may have aided delaying the onset of the problem. 
    I'm not sure where this leaves me? The problem might now be able managed. Well, sort-of. But it's not eliminated.

  • I have a 1st Gen Time Capsule 1tb. It turns on, boots up and turns green for 5-10 mins, but then turns solid orange and then blinks orange.  I have removed the hard drive and replaced the power supply . . . still the same problem.  Suggestions?

    I purchased a used 1st Gen Time Capsule with a 1 tb hard drive.
    When I plugged it in and did the initial setup, it worked fine, but gave me a hard drive error.  A few minutes later the green light turned solid orange, then blinking orange, then the status light went off.  The lights in back stayed on. 
    I removed the hard drive and rebooted, it turned green for 5-10 minutes then reverted back to a solid orange, blinking orange, then went off.
    Next I purchased a remanufactured internal power supply, and installed it (without the hard drive in).  It turned green almost immediately.  After about 15-20 minutes, I decided to try to install the hard drive again, booted it up, and tried to erase the hard drive with was working properly according to the software.  It stopped erasing the disc after about 20 minutes and turned solid orange again, then blinking, then no status light  (but back lights were still lit).
    I'm a bit flabbergasted at this point, any suggestions on what to do next?  I think i've pretty much replaced everything except the logic board, but can't seem to find any information on the symptoms of a logic board malfunction. 
    Thanks!!!!!!!

    A Gen3 is identical board to a Gen4 although they have some differences in firmware and wireless card was updated on every model.. but a Gen3 is substantially faster than Gen1, Gen2 which also have identical boards.
    You can with careful shopping get a Gen3 pretty cheap.
    Most use a delta power supply which I think is a lot better than the flextronics used in most Gen1/2
    You can sell back the parts to ebay.. people still would buy the power supply etc. Even just the case can be useful to a repairer.
    But if the board is gone.. it is hard to repair.. not impossible.. but hard.
    Gen 3 and Gen 4 are not without faults.
    See this page.
    https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/new-issue-with-a1355-gen-3-tc
    I have fixed it a different way.. by using the small converters you can buy in bulk from ebay for $1 each.. KIS3R33 .. they produce 3.3V at 2A peaking at 3A.. amazing.. I keep using them to replace onboard power converters by removing the inductor and simply power directly.. the end result has worked great. You can simply change the resistors around and get any output from 1v to 20v depending on input.
    Is it worth doing it .. no of course not.. it will waste many more hours than $50 is worth.. but it is kind of fun that you can actually make things work again.
    Here is a pic of the Gen 3 totally powered by me. All onboard power removed.
    This was to track down the fault in the Gen3.. but I am kind of pleased that it ended up neat enough and reliable enough to work for more than a year.. the Gen3 still serves as a way to get Netflix via network for a friend running 24/7.
    The units supply (from left to right)
    1v, 1.1v, 3.3v, 5v, 1.8v
    It is feed by 12v supply which is also directly connected to the hard disk.
    So it is possible to fix.. !! Only got to be a bit crazy.

  • I have a HP Pavilion a6603w. I want to upgrade power supply to run powerful graphic card. Suggest

    I have a HP pavilion a6603w desktop model number FK555AA-ABA a6603w.  I have a low to mid level graphics card, which is the most that my power supply will handle. 
    I want to get a stronger power supply to run a high end graphics card with a self cooling fan.  Can anyone suggest an excellent, reliable power supply brand and model that will fit into my desktop case with minimum fuss?  I am not tech savy but I have replaced my video card and hard drives with no problem. 
    Thanks,
    Lugnut 

    lugnut1204 wrote: I have a HP pavilion a6603w desktop model number FK555AA-ABA a6603w.  I have a low to mid level graphics card, which is the most that my power supply will handle. I want to get a stronger power supply to run a high end graphics card with a self cooling fan.  Can anyone suggest an excellent, reliable power supply brand and model that will fit into my desktop case with minimum fuss?  I am not tech savy but I have replaced my video card and hard drives with no problem.  Thanks, Lugnut 
    Hello lugnut1204, I checked the specifications for your system and is appears the system shipped with a 250 power supply. The dimensions for this power supply are 5 15/16 inches wide, 5.5 inches long, and 3 3/8 inches tall. Since your system is a MicroATX version, you would be slightly limited to a power supply of the same size as the original power supply.
    Here  is a link to Newegg where a Corsair 600 watt power supply can be found with almost the exact same physical size as you original 250 watt version. The Corsair power supply dimensions are 5.9 inches wide, 5.5 inches long, and 3.4 inches tall.
    If you get a power supply too long, it may interfer with the back of the CD\DVD drives.
    You would need to locate a video card that you wanted and make sure the power supply requirements were less than the 600 watt Corsair model. Most of the mid to higher end cards require at leaset a 400 to 500 watt or greater power supply.
    Please click the White Kudos star on the left, to say thanks.
    Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem.

  • I have the first generation Time Capsule A1254, the power supply went south and I'm looking to replace it any suggestions where I might find one?  Thanks

    Hi,
    I have the first generation Time Capsule A1254, the power supply inside went south, does anyone know where I can purchase another?
    Thanks

    Might be worth considering a repair of the power supply so you can keep the data on your drive.
    I have no association with the link below other than as a customer.
    http://www.timecapsulerepair.net/

  • NO POWER SUPPLY L512

    Hello!
    I turned off my laptop L512 and the next day will not turn on. No LED is lit.
    I checked the AC power supply and the value of the voltage is correct. (20Vdc)
    I tried to turn it on without the battery. But nothing happens.
    I have verified that the backup batery is low. It may be that?
    I repeat that no LED lights up (batery led or power led)
    I bought another motherboard (used), I replaced it, but the result is the same !
    I tried unplugging the harddisk, the RAM, the DVD, and then connect the AC power supply. But nothing changes.
    I also changed the power connector (it was included in the motherboard used). But nothing changes.
    Do you have any idea?
    It may be the ROM BIOS chip? (even if no LED lights?)
    Thanks for the help

    Hi,
    Welcome to Lenovo Community Forums!
    I’m sorry to hear that your Lenovo ThinkPad L512 is not powering on.
    I would like to thank you for all the effort you have put to resolve the issue on your own.
    Have you verified whether the power switch is working properly? Make sure the power switch is connected to the motherboard.
    Since you have tried almost all the troubleshooting from your end, I would suggest you to contact our technical support for further assistance.
    Click here to open a link where you can select the country and get the exact contact support number. I’m sure they will be a great help.
    Best Regards,
    Mithun.
    Did someone help you today? Press the star on the left to thank them with a Kudo!
    If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"! This will help the rest of the Community with similar issues identify the verified solution and benefit from it.
    Follow @LenovoForums on Twitter!

  • Power supply vs. logic board?  turns off in sleep mode.

    My imac g5 (2004 - 1st generation?) is either turning completely off or going into some un-wake-up-able mode after it's put to sleep. (I have to switch off/on the power strip and turn the computer on all over again.) And sometimes if it's sleeping (power light pulsing on front) it may or may not wake from sleep by pushing the power button. Often touching a key in that circumstance will cause it to crash, so I've quit using that altogether as a method of waking it up. I've reset the SMU a number of times throughout the past few months and it has not cleared up this problem.
    Last night after I put it to sleep it switched in to the un-wake-up-able mode. I could still hear something running (not a fan, just an electrical hum) where it seems like it's crashed and can't shut itself off. I had to turn off the power and try to turn the computer back on. It wouldn't respond the first couple times. Then the power light glowed for a while but it still didn't turn on completely. After a few more minutes I tried again. Maybe I held the power button for too long, but I heard a long single beep, the fans whirred, and then everything started up as usual.
    I've read a number of threads seemingly related to these issues, but am now not clear about whether this is a power supply issue or a logic board issue. I have yet to open the back and check for bulging capacitors. Just thought I'd ask here first.

    I am having a very close issue too (posted also in a more recent thread about power button not functioning). My old iMac G5 20 inches got a power supply that went bad two years ago. I had it replaced and all went fine until two weeks ago.
    My wife was using it, while I was away: machine shut down with a 'pop!' sound.
    She tried to start it up again, but after pressing the button a couple of times - the last one longer - she had a long strong peep. The machine went on for a while and then off again. Scared, she left it off.
    After checking, no reported issue seems to fit to the problems shown: power supply is working; logic board too. The machine is working fine, but on sleep, it dies out. While doing tasks, at undetermined times, it shuts down with a 'pop!'. Sometimes you can restart it immediately. Sometimes you can't and have to wait one or more hours. No evidently bad caps on board, led check returns 1 (no 2 flashing or attempting to turn on) with dead computer, otherwise all working fine. Hardware test also passed. Console messages have nothing relevant or clearly understandable to offer.
    Still can't figure out a solution. Many user are pretty fast in suggesting to bringing the machine to Apple. Unfortunately not all around the world we have/need cars. And getting the 20 kg of iMac by feet/metro to the shop it ain't such a nice walk. When I fried the power supply, there was no sufficiently large box on sale to pack the computer and have it send to the shop. I had to wait for the technician - on a convenient day - do drop by and take it (and he knew he was going to repair it)!
    Will post, if I have further developments.

  • Power Supply??? Anyone have this problem?

    Hello everyone!
    I have a few different things I am going to post but at the end they all go together so if you are bored read on.
    I own an '07 Mac Pro 3GHz 8-Core and one day I started it up and it didn't come one. It had power but no video. I restarted it maybe 6 or so times for it to finally come on.
    2 months later I start it up(yes I used it between this time) and it gets to the desktop and shuts off. I then try to start it and nada. So the next morning I try again and it chimes, gets to the gray apple screen and shuts off and has not started since.
    I took it to an Apple repair shop(not Apple store but certified) and they are scratching their heads because this is usually a sure logic Board issue or Processor.
    I myself had taken the time to fool with the diagnostic buttons and yes the Trickle Amber lights comes on but when I let go of he diagnostic button on the CPU1 & CPU2 Overtemp lights flashed.
    So with no way to know what this means I just took a mental note about what lights did what and when.
    PART 2
    I had been searching the webtubes anywhere and everywhere for Apple Service Manuals but to no end. They seemingly don't exist.
    Well not so fast. Not only did I find the Mac Pro Service Manual for my '07 I found the '08 and others all for free.
    So with the info I thought for sure I could figure out the problems with my computer but the repair shop still had it. Turns out the repair shop was so used to the Logic/Processor thing they hadn't actually really diagnosed the LED's properly as I assisted them in doing once I read the manual.
    As I read the LED meanings it became quite clear to me what the problem is but yet I couldn't understand how.
    To me the Amber Trickle LED meant that the power supply was ok but this isn't the case. There is an LED I think number 6 or 7 that when the front button is pressed turns green to show the Power Supply is up to par.
    Just from keeping notes in my head I remember studying the LEDs and never did a green light show ever.
    Armed with this I went to the shop today where the tech downloaded the Service Manual while I was there and we went over it together at which point I said to him that there was no Green Light.
    So while he boringly read through the LED explanations I stared at his certifications and his cool little collection of Sponge Bob items which I love by the way. After a boring repeat of yada yada yada we make the anticipated trip over the the hog on the counter.
    Just like I thought... no green light.
    Now I can't believe all this hoopla over that. Something so simple was overlooked for a week.
    I look at it like this. People tell me now, oh yeah it makes sense that it would be that now that it is saying that from the diagnosis LEDs but not one person even suggested that prior.
    And I went and purchased a new 2.26GHz 8-core because I couldn't wait any longer for it to be fixed and thinking it was gonna be $700-$2000.
    Any thoughts???

    It is very simple trust me.
    I guess when the plug is in it still gets power(trickle power) enough to do little things and/or diagnose but the main power to boot up and run can still not work.
    My guess is that it is made this way so they can still diagnose problems even when a power supply bites the dust so you know it is bad as well.
    About the Overtemp lights here is the deal.
    If you look at an '07 Mac Pro(can't speak for newer) behind the riser cards there is a row of LED's and words to explain why they are on, blink or whatever they do.
    Things like TRICKLE POWER, CPU1 & CPU2 FAIL, CPU1 & CPU2 OVERTEMP, and others.
    Just like the SMC button there are two other buttons on the Logic Board near these LEDs'
    If you press them they diagnose the computers issues and make the lights come on depending on the issue.
    BUT...
    There are some of the LEDs that come on to show you power without having to press the diagnosis button. For example the LED #6 or #7(not sure) come on when the power is on, and in this case they don't, showing the Power Supply is not putting out the power. Even if it does and the power isn't sufficient this light will not turn on.
    So...
    When you hit the power button only the Fan and Drives spin due to the Trickle Power(from what I have read) but the Logic Board is not getting power from the Power Supply to start up as shown by the GREEN LED not lighting up to indicate the Power Supply is working.
    That is a pretty good explanation as good as it can be.
    I can post a photo tomorrow when I get my new computer up and running to show you the Board and you will be like Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh that is simple.
    As far as the fix. yes I would have just got a Power Supply but it was not know at the time. I basically figured it out myself.
    I have no regrets about buying the new machine. I have clients that need their stuff done and I love to do it, plus now this will become my Maya machine until it is needed for backup or something.
    NOTE: Who wouldn't still be excited to get the latest and greatest.

  • IMac G5 bluetooth + airport + power supply problems - oh and the dvd drive

    Yeah, seems like a lot is going wrong with my mac lately. I bought the iMac G5(no isight) model last year around july. I had some power issues (i.e. leaving the house with it turned on to come home and find it off) For the last year though that was all that was wrong. Once I had to reinstall OS X because it would not find the OS X harddrive during one of these power losses, but that was it.
    Then about two weeks ago, I came home to a turned off iMac. I thought the power had gone out in my apartment, but the clocks were all right, and to my surprise the iMac would not turned on. Because I am not under warranty I searched online and found an extended exchange program for my emc model. (http://www.apple.com/support/imac/powersupply/repairextension/) I made an appt at the apple store and they replaced the power supply.
    I got the machine back two nights ago and my bluetooth hardware wasn't recognized. And I now had a new "ink" system preference panel in the hardware section which aparently is some sort of handwriting recognition tablet. It ticked me off, but I just wanted to use my computer.
    Well today I came home from work and my computer was acting funny. Everywhere I clicked brought up dashboard. This had never happened before and I had no choice but to force a shutdown. Powered it back up and poof, there goes my airport card. No hardware recognized. Now I have a 25 ft cable running the floor of my apartment. This was cause enough to call apple. I was told to make another apointment to bring the computer in. The guy made it sound like it was no big deal to lug a 30 lb bulky computer 40 miles and through a crowded mall. He also made no promises that the repairs would be covered under the exchange program.
    I just wanted to hear any suggestions before I decide whether or not its worth it to bring in the computer. Nothing shows up in system profiler under bluetooth or airport. Should I just lie to the "genius" and tell them that my computer still shuts down randomly? I think that way they would at least replace the logic board (which I think is the problem) before telling me to sell my kidney and pay for repairs. I've tried reseting the SMU, and I looked at the bluetooth and airport cards to see if they had been accidently disconnected during the PS replacement. They are actually screwed into the logic board so I think their connections are efficient.
    Oh and about the DVD drive. I have to use two cd's in order to burn a single disc. The first disc I put in the drive NEVER works. It spins for about 30 seconds then starts buzzing like blender and spits the cd back out. The second blank disc I put in USUALLY works, but sometimes it takes three discs. This problem has always been there since day 1, but I don't burn enough cd's for it to be an issue.
    Thank you for listening to my gripes. I really don't think I'll make the mistake of buying the first issue of a model.
    iBook G4 900mghz, iMac G5 20" 2.0 ghz   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  

    OK, first thing -to restore your bluetooth, shut down, unplug for a few minutes and then reboot. Thay usually brings the BT back. You should also repair permissions. Reset your SMU nd your PRAM as well.
    Try those four things and please post back,
    Miriam

  • How do I use LabVIEW to control and vary the voltage on my Agilent Power Supply and simultaneously record temp from 1 DMM and voltage from another DMM?

    I am using an Agilent Power Supply  to apply a voltage to a
    thermistor to heat an Al chassis.  I want to use LabVIEW to tell
    the power supply to apply 5V for 10 minutes, then step to 7V for 10
    minutes, etc.  I am completely new to LabVIEW, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
    In addition to that, I want to place a type J thermocouple onto the Al
    surface and use a Keithley 2000 DMM to monitor the temperature (it has
    a built in conversion from V to Temp for type J).  I will also be
    using another Kelthley 2000 DMM to record the output voltage of a new
    uncalibrated thermocouple.  I would like to collect the output
    voltage for this uncalibrated thermocouple and the temperature reading
    from the type J simultaneously.  How should I go about doing this
    in LabVIEW?  I will be using version 6.1.  The power supply
    and DMMs will be connected to a PC using GPIB.
    Again any suggestions would be greatly appreciated- I have no idea
    where to begin on such a project.  I have taught myself how to
    make a basic VI- converting temp in oC to oF, but  that is as far
    as my knowledge goes.

    What you want to do should be fairly straightward and a good way to learn labview. 
    First off, if you haven't already, I would download the drivers for the Keithley and Agilent instruments.  I found the keithley drivers at the link below.  You will need to find the labview drivers for the Agilent PS at their website.  Drivers are the VI's you will use in your program to control the insturments.
    http://sine.ni.com/apps/we/niid_web_display.download_page?p_id_guid=E3B19B3E90B0659CE034080020E74861
    If you open Labview and go to the help menu and click on Labview bookshelf there is alot of information on getting you started coding labview.   This should get you started, if you have anymore questions just ask in this same thread and I am sure you will get all the help you need.
    Brian
    Message Edited by BrianPack on 09-14-2005 05:21 PM
    Message Edited by BrianPack on 09-14-2005 05:21 PM

  • 1st Gen iMac G5 BAd Power Supply

    Hi, My iMac G5 power supply is officially dead. It was confirmed at the Apple Store at the Genius Bar. Apple apparently no longer sells the power supply for the first gen iMac G5s. I have two questions: Does anyone have a suggestion on where to buy a 3rd party power supply for that model? I'm not exactly sure what I should be buying. And secondly, is it worth it to do? I know the second question is more opinion but I'm curious of the success rate of replacing the power supply. My preference is obviously to replace it rather than laying out the money for a new iMac which I probably can't do right now) but if anyone's experience is that I'm just throwing money away on the power supply because of future issues or unreliability, I'd like to hear about it.
    Thanks as always!

    [Synaptech.com] or [welovemacs.com] will not only sell you the correct part, they will give you installation instructions. Another source is [http://www.jimwarholic.com/2008/07/how-to-repair-apple-imac-g5.php]
    As to your second question, as long as the rest of the Mac is in good shape, replacing the power supply should give you a few more years to collect your pennies for a new one down the road.

Maybe you are looking for