Touchscreen monitor and photoshop

I've tried drawing with a stylus on my touchscreen monitor, but it doesn't work on CS6 (it pans instead). I've been able to draw in previous versions. Is there a setting I can adjust or anything?

I looked at an HP touchsceen computer in a local store a few days ago. The whole things consited of the screen, with CPU, memory etc. and a keyboard. I thought about doing photoshop with it, and did not like the idea of have to hold your hand up in front of you, and wondered how precise your control might be. It also occured to me that such a screen would have drivers like an Intuos that could identify which program was active, and be set up to react accordingly. But I don't see it catching of for Photoshop. OK I was sold on the idea of the big Ciniq screens that could easily by moved into the horizontal and used like a tablet, but not a regular monitor.
Oh dear. I think I just failed an early test for madness, because I just tied drawing on my monitor with my finger.

Similar Messages

Can I hook my iphone 5 to a touchscreen monitor and use the touchscreen feature of the monitor. Would I have to use the lighting to hdmi?

Can I hook my iphone 5 to a touchscreen monitor and use the touchscreen feature of the monitor. Would I have to use the lighting to hdmi?

The connection of the phone to the monitor would allow you to see, but does not have the ability to translate the touch on the monitor to the phone through that cable.

IPS Touch monitor and Photoshop CS6

I am a photographer and I'm in the market for a IPS touch monitor
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Acer+-+T-Series+23%22+Widescreen+Flat-Panel+IPS+LCD+HD+Monitor /6815272.p?id=1218807852953&skuId=6815272
and I own photoshop cs6. I would like to use a stylus pen to edit photos rather than a mouse but I have not been able to find any info online about how well photoshop works with a touch screen. Does anyone out there have any experience and advice for me? Thank you!

Touch screens still aren't at a point where you can use them for accurate painting/retouching.
Wacom Cintiq displays are that accurate (using a pen for position and pressure).

Advice needed on monitor for Photoshop and Lightroom use

Hi. I am aserious amature photographer wishing to move to the next level and sell some of my work.
I just had a custom pc built to work with the new copies of Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 3 I bought (lots or RAM and HD space, ssd, etc....)
The last piece of my system is to purchase a monitor. I want to be somewhere in the better then Best Buy but less than NEC/Eizo range in price, or between $500 - $900. I have worked with cameras since the early 80's and moved to digital several years ago but the only post processing I have done is with Photoshop Elements. I would be doing mostly prints to sell but also need to have a web site to do so. Will also use the pc for daily net surfing... but do not game or watch a lot of video on the pc.
Being really new to this whole process I have a few questions.
The first thing I need to decide is whether I need to look for a wide gamut display or not.
I realize the whole chain must be 10 bit (Adobe -OS - graphics driver - graphics card - display port.
I have Adobe Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 3, Win7 64 bit, Zotac ZT 50701 10M video card (which uses GeForce GTX 560 fermi and an nvidia chipset. It does have displayport). I am having a hard time determining whether my video card actually supports wide gamut (10bit).
Standard vs Wide Gamut? Is wide gamut important enough to deal with the issues it brings (calibration, viewing things other than PS and LR or color managed, which appear to be rare?) Is sRGB good enough for most prints (don't do fine art, mostly nature and portraits but starting to do some HRD things). If wide gamut is the way to go I have no problem with that and have the time to learn about calibration, color management, etc... But I also want to make sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
24" vs 27"? Is there any advantage to one or the other when editing photos?
IPS vs PLS? I realize they are similar but are there differences worth noting?
Glossy vs Matte Anti-Glare? seems to be a lot of comments regarding the anti-glare coating, mostly poor. Yet I can see issues using a glossy screen in my study with a window to my back.
One manufacturer vs another? I realize Eizo, NEC and LaCie are at the top of the heap. But with my budget, after upgrading my pc and camera equipment, I can't make that work now. So I need to choose from the next group down (Dell, HP, Samsung, Asus...)
One or two monitors? It looks like many (mid-grade) wide gamut monitors do a lousy job of displaying anything but color managed sites. Is that necessarily true of all the mid-grades? Or can some be used for graphics but as well for routine net surfing, MS Office, etc...? Or am I better off getting two monitors, one for graphics and one for the rest? That would pretty much limit me to 24" or less given my budget (used to using a Dell 21" TN monitor that oddly crapped out just as my new pc was done).
The more I read reviews the more confusing it gets. There seems to be a difference of opinion even among pros on whether to go wide gamut or stick with an easier sRGB. Realizing a standard gamut monitor would be cheaper, I do want to make the right decision up front, given my budget.
The one thing I have found astounding is that there is nowhere to actually see many of the monitors I am considering. We live in Nashville TN but my wife is from Atlanta Ga so we drove there a few weeks ago to visit family and for me to visit monitor shops. Even the largest ones there (Fry's and Microcenter) had minimal IPS monitors, a few Dells and HP's. The knowledge of their sales folks was so poor I finally gave up. Felt bad about this until I posted this on another board and got a reply from a guy in LA (second largest city in the US) that he wanted to see a particular monitor and there was no place even there to do so.
Anyhow, here is what I have considered:
24" Wide Gamut: Dell U2410 and Asus PA246Q. Dells appear to be good IF you get a good one. The Asus appears to be a clone of the Dell that gets a lot of good press.
27" Wide Gamut: Dell U2711 that also gets a ton of good reviews
24: Standard Gamut: Dell U2412 and HP ZR2440.
27" Standard Gamut: Samsung S27A850D and Apple Cinema- The Samsung uses PLS technology versus IPS while the Apple is a glossy screen that will work with a pc.
Sorry for the long post. Any comments are greatly appreciated.

dkg62 wrote:
I realize the whole chain must be 10 bit
Not trying to talk you out of setting up a 10 bit pipeline, but it's still not very mature, and it really isn't a necessity to get a good editing experience.
Personally I find advantage in using two 4:3 ratio monitors for Photoshop work. All my panels are on the right monitor, while pretty much the entire left one shows the Photoshop main window and the working canvas space. My desktop is 3200 x 1200 pixels overall, and I find having the panels remain visible all the time is important.
Regarding whether a wide gamut is important... Will you be printing to devices that deliver a wide gamut? What other things will you be doing with your system?
It's not a no-brainer whether a wider gamut monitor is always "better" for everything, since it can accentuate the differences between the output from color-managed and non-color-managed applications, and it's definitely true that not everything is color-managed. With a monitor that's close to sRGB, for example, you might find Internet Explorer output acceptable, while using a wide gamut monitor will result in garishly oversaturated IE displays. On the other hand, FireFox (with a settings tweak) seems to get color management right, so there is an alternative.
I think, as John has implied above, you should work to get your head completely around how color-management works, soup to nuts. If you don't, there will always be things that are a mystery or which surprise you at the wrong times. Being able to order a print and have it come back with the expected color can be very important, as you might imagine.
-Noel

Monitor calibration and photoshop

After I run a monitor calibration software, I thought all the photos would look correct on my computer no matter what app I use to display them.
But photos in photoshop looks slightly different from the same photo displayed by the browser or by other applets in windows. So slightly different that you wouldn't normally notice unless you do a side by side compare.
Apparently photoshop is applying additional color correction on top of what the monitor calibration software has already done. Is this necessary? If this step is necessary, then why doesn't the monitor calibration software do that, so that photoshop doesn't have to, and so that the photo would look the same in the browser as in photoshop?

Apparently photoshop is applying additional color correction on top of
what the monitor calibration software has already done. Is this
necessary? If this step is necessary, then why doesn't the monitor
calibration software do that, so that photoshop doesn't have to,
Photoshop doesn't apply any color correction to the images per se, it just operates in a selected color space, and takes into account your monitor profile.
The monitor calibration tells your video card - or the monitor itself for some high end monitors, how it should be set to meet chosen targets, and generates a profile for the monitor.
1. Caibrate your monitor and generate a profile
2. Tell your OS that that it your monitor profile
3. Set Photoshop to work in the space of your choice - sRGB, Adobe RGB, or ProPhoto 99% of the time
That takes you to a state where everything is in order more or less. If at this point your images look out of whack, it's almost certainly because they are, perhaps because they were previously corrected on a non-calibrated setup.
Photoshop and other color managed application should display them all more or less exactly the same, provided the files themselves have a color profile .

Laptop monitor choice for photo editing with lightroom and photoshop

Hi,
i'm going to buy a laptop, mostly for photo editing with lightroom and photoshop use.
I'm in trouble with the display choice.
One laptop has LG LP156WF4 or AUO B156HAN01 display, that should be very similar matte ips display with 55%-60% coverage of AdobeRGB. You can find a review in the "Display" section of these link : http://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Clevo-W650SJ-Schenker-M504-Barebones-Notebook.114329.0 .html
The other laptop hasAU Optronics B156HW01 V.4 Matte 95%, that is a TN matte display with 95% coverage of AdobeRGB. You can find a review in these link (the display should be the green bar): http://www.anandtech.com/show/4649/mythlogic-pollux-1400-clevos-w150hr-tested/6
My question is: which one is better for photo editing with photoshop and lightroom?
Someone says that ips is better because of the fidelity of color reproduction, view angles and contrast.
Someone, on the other side, says that the TN 95% is better because of the gamut%.
Can you help me?
Thanks,
Marco Grechi

Macbook pro is out of budget
Hp assistance said that in italy they don't sell laptop with dreamcolor (i'll call again tomorrow to be sure ) but i think that it would be out of budget (max 2000 euro).
They said that the best solution for me is the zbook 15 g2 (2300 euro), but they DON'T know brand and model of the display and if i can have SSD + HD inside the zbook 15 g2.
The laptop with the lg panel costs 1500 euro. the question is; "i know that the lg display is not the best, but is it almost sufficient for my use?". In this way i may save 500/800 to buy a separated display later.
I have read that dell xps 15 and dell precision m3800 have great display, but they are glossy and very reflective. Is it a big handicap?
Do you know the 3k 15,6" display Panasonic VVX16T020G00 ? It should be a 8-bit display with 72%NTSC gamut ( http://www.panelook.com/VVX16T020G00_Panasonic_15.5_LCM_parameter_22014.html )
Do you sugget me a 3k display for photo editing?
Thanks

Printing with HP B9180 and Photoshop Elements 8 and Color Management

I've got a bit of confusion about certain settings in the printing process and I've posted a rather long discussion of my 'issues' and confusion. I hope someone can give me some guidance here. I've seen a lot of these issues addressed in many places but I can't seem to find an integrated response. Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read and respond.
Color Management Questions
My problems started when I was getting pictures that were too dark from my HP 9180 printer after having gotten very nice prints for a long time. I had obviously started to do something differently inadvertently. The only thing I think that is different is that I got a new 23 inch monitor, which does produce much brighter on-screen images. So, I started to do some research and know just enough about color management to be slightly confused and have some questions that I hope someone can give me some help with.
Equipment Background
I use both a Canon 20D and a Canon PowerShot SD600 camera. Both have the default color space as sRGB, although the 20D can be also set as RGB.
I also use Photoshop Elements 8, where there are a variety of settings possible for printing.
My monitor is an HP S2331, whose color space is sRGB and cannot be reset to RGB (I think) except for temperature; the default is 6500K.
My printer is an HP Photosmart Pro B9180 Printer, where there are also a variety of settings possible.
I’m running XP-Pro.
Here’s Where I Get Confused
Everything I have read about color management (various web sites, forums, books, etc) says to have the image, monitor, and printer all in the same color space.
Everything I read about PSE 8 (same sources) says to set PSE 8 to ‘Always Optimize for Printing’ under Edit>Color Settings in order to get the best prints. This displays photos based on the Adobe RGB color space.
I am taking pictures in sRGB, and telling PSE 8 to process them in RGB by selecting ‘Always Optimize for Printing’. Is this something I should be concerned about? Should I reset my camera for RGB?
Further, by selecting ‘Always Optimize for Printing’, I am setting PSE 8 for RGB while my monitor displays sRGB. Is this an important issue or is it also much ado about technicalities that an amateur should not worry about? It does violate the ‘keep them in the same color space’ rule.
Next, when I go to File>Print and get the Print window and then do the Page Setup and Select Printer, I then go to More Options in the lower left of the window. Under the More Options window, I select Color management and select Photoshop Elements Manages Colors. Next, there is Image Space, which is fixed and not subject to selection from a drop down menu.
I understand that this is the image space of the image I took with my camera and that information is embedded in the image. Correct?
Next, there is Printer Profile. But, from what I have read, this is where the IEC profile of the paper being printed on is supposed to be selected, isn’t it?
Shouldn’t this more appropriately be called Paper Profile, or Printing Media Profile? Further, this drop down menu appears to be somewhat erratic, sometimes showing all of the paper profiles I believe are loaded, sometimes not. It also shows listings such as Working RGB-Adobe RGB (1988), Adobe RGB 1988, Dot Gain 10%, 15%.... along with a lot of paper profiles. Aren’t those profiles unnecessary here?
I’ve used both Relative Colorimetric and Perceptual Rendering and am happy with either one.
Next, when I go to Printer Preferences, in order to “…disable color management in the printer preferences dialog”, under the Color Tab, I select Application Managed Colors from the Color management drop down menu, and also have the option of selecting ColorSmart/sRGB and Adobe RGB (1988).
Is there any time when I should use either ColorSmart/sRGB or Adobe RGB (1988)? If I were staying with my camera’s sRGB setting, given the fact that the monitor is sRGB, would the appropriate selections be ‘Printer Manages Colors’ and ‘ColorSmart/sRGB’?
Finally, under the Features Tab, I go to look for the same paper I selected under Printer Profile (Question 4 above). If it is one of the pre-loaded (by HP) profiles, it is there, but if it is a profile I downloaded, say for an Ilford paper, it isn’t listed, and I need to guess at an equivalent type of paper to select.
Is there any way to get that listing to appear under the Paper Type drop down menu?
I know that this is a long post, but it helped me to clarify my ‘issues’. Thank you for any and all suggestions, answers, guidance and help.

RIK,
Some printers have long names, esp. HP printers, and PSE gets ":confused." In control panel>devices and printers, right click on the default printer, go to printer properties, and rename the default printer to something short, e.g. "Our Printer." That may fix it..

Printing: Lightroom and Photoshop

Ok...so today I tried to run my first print since getting lightroom. Quick run down on my color management (although I am still learning on this subject as well). My monitor is calibrated with an eye one display. My camera (Canon 300D) is set to AdobeRGB profile. I am running an Epson 2400, Ilford Smooth Pearl paper, with the profile provided from Ilford, and have it set to have the printer determine colors. And I am running Lightroom and Photoshop CS2.
I have been printing with this combonation beautifully for about a year now. I do have one small thing about my setup, even calibrated, my monitor is a little dark, so I must do a small curves adjustment on my final version to get the print to be perfect. I have accepted this (not the newest or best monitor) and just set an action to run before printing.
So, today, I tried to print from Lightroom. The print came out WAY too dark...I mean, my blue sky is a dark purple...odd. So I said, well I need this print, let me move it to photoshop, drop the curve and print from there. Well...the blue came out blue, but the image is still a little dark...I will play with the curve again to see if I can get it right. I don't have a problem with doing this for now, but I am wondering why the images are darker then they used to be, even in photoshop.
Also, can I create actions in Lightroom, something like develop presets that I can run AFTER I am done working on an image that we prep the document for print?
Sorry for the long post...thanks for any help...

So...you're using the canned profile from Ilford...and in Lightroom you've added that via "Other" correct? When you select that profile you are then using Lightroom color management and then you go into the Epson driver under Properties, Mode Custom and then select Off under Color Management, right? You've also selected the correct media that Ilford reccomends with the Pearl paper?
If you hit print from there than that should take care of it. Note however that if you change the page template, it _WILL_ change the print output settings making you update to the profile again.
So far, I get equal output results from Lightroom and Photoshop CS2/3 when using the same profile and printing under Mac or Win. So, if you are _NOT_ getting the same results, your settings are not equal-something somewhere is set incorrectly.

Dual Monitors and Lr4

I am looking at switching from using Aperture and Photoshop, to Lightroom and Photoshop for my photography workflow. However during my free Lightroom trial, I have ran into a deal breaker with dual monitor support.
I use a Macbook pro w/ an external monitor for editing. In Photoshop and A3, I keep all my pallets, sliders, and thumbnails on the laptop screen, and display the full size image on the external display. I would like to do the same in Lightroom 4, however, there is one small problem.
When trying to achieve the same set up in Lightroom, I can view the image nicely on the external monitor, but I can't actually work on the external monitor. Example: If I decide a blemish needs touched up I can't use the spot removal tool on the large external display, but instead have to use it on the small laptop screen image. The same is true of the crop overlay and adjustment brushes. Also the fantastic option commands for mask overlay and sharpening, are not visible on the external display.
Please tell me there is someway to change this?
I strongly prefer LR4's sharpening and noise reduction, and feel I could reduce my reliance on CS6 for many images.
Thanks in advance,
Troy

My first encounter with Lightroom was similar to yours: Why the heck can't I move the panels where I want them? This is ridiculous...but after a while it grew on me.
There's no reason you can't have the main action on the large external monitor (as ssprengel says). But you have to get used to the idea right away that Lightroom is a single-screen application, and the second screen is just an extension used for an alternative view (grid/loupe/1:1). Don't fight it, it's just how it is.
Troy_Fagan wrote:
feel I could reduce my reliance on CS6 for many images.
That's absolutely right, that's what happened to me.

JPG images not displayed correctly in Bridge and Photoshop

I am using CS4 under OSX 10.4.11 on a PowerMac G5 Quad. Images which have been captured as JPG are displayed fine by Preview, but when opened in Bridge, Camera Raw or Photoshop. the colours are all "washed out". The attached screen capture should give an idea of the difference, with the upper being Camera Raw (image settings) and the lower being Preview. My monitor has been calibrated and I'm using sRGB IEC61966-2.1 colour space in Camera Raw and Photoshop. what could be causing this?

I've done some more experimentation. After opening the image in Photoshop without adjustment, then Save As JPEG with embedded color profile, Preview displays the new image the same as Photoshop. Save As JPEG without embedded color profile, and Preview displays this copy just like the original. It seems that Photoshop is making different (incorrect) assumptions about what color space to use when there is no embedded color profile. Shouldn't it assume sRGB like everything else? Or is its interpretation of sRGB incorrect? How can I fix this?

JPG images not displayed correctly in Bridge and Photoshop (Mac OS)

(Note: I have copied the content of this query from the Creative Suites forum where I originally opened it.)
I am using CS4 under OSX 10.4.11 on a PowerMac G5 Quad with 23" Apple cinema display. Images which have been captured as JPG are displayed fine by Preview, but when opened in Bridge, Camera Raw or Photoshop. the colours are all "washed out". The attached screen capture should give an idea of the difference, with the upper being Camera Raw (image settings) and the lower being Preview. My monitor has been calibrated and I'm using sRGB IEC61966-2.1 colour space in Camera Raw and Photoshop. The colours displayed by Preview are pretty close to "real life". I find it virtually impossible to adjust the colours in Photoshop to get back to anything similar.
After opening the image in Photoshop without adjustment, and Save As JPEG with embedded color profile, Preview displays the new image the same as Photoshop. Save As JPEG without embedded color profile, and Preview displays this copy just like the original. It seems that Photoshop is making different (incorrect) assumptions about what color space to use when there is no embedded color profile. Shouldn't it assume sRGB like virtually everything else (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SRGB)? Or is its interpretation of sRGB incorrect? How can I fix this?
Re: JPG images not displayed correctly in Bridge and Photoshop

xxxxyyyyz wrote:
…If there is someone out there who has experience of obtaining decent colour management in CS4 on a Power PC, I would really like to know how you achieved it.
That would be yours truly, and I hasten to reply because I may have some insights that can help you too.
Just get it it out of the way, here's my setup:
Photoshop 11.0.2 ("CS4"); VersionCue disabled and uninstalled.—2.5 GHz Power Mac (PPC) G5-Quad; 16GB RAM; mutant, flashed 550MHz nVidia GeForce 7800GTX 1,700MHz 512MB VRAM; ATTO ExpressPCI UL5D LP SCSI card; Mac OS X Tiger 10.4.11 and Leopard 10.5.8 boot drives; Spotblight, Dashboard and Time Machine permanently disabled; dual 22" CRT monitors; USB wireless 'n' available but connected to the Internet via wired Ethernet; 1 FW flatbed scanner; 2 SCSI scanners (one tabloid-size transparency scanner and a film scanner); various internal & external HDs; FW Epson 2200 and Ethernet Samsung ML-2850ND printers; 2 X Back-UPS RS 1500 XS units.
I can unambiguously and in good faith represent to you that my color management, from capture to print, is as spot-on as anyone with any kind of setup can hope to achieve. Unequivocally and without qualifications.
Now, first things first: Forget about trying to synchronize color management across the point applications lumped together only by Adobe marketing fiat into a variety of meaningless "creative suites". Concentrate on Photoshop. Do not try to use Bridge to synchronize anything.
The "suites" are a totally artificial construct created by Adobe bean counters and marketing types. The point applications (i.e. the individual programs clumsily bundled together, e.g. Photoshop, Illustrator, InDesign, etc.) are developed independently by separate engineering teams that are not only not in the same building, but in different cities, different states of the American Union, and even in different countries. They have very little communication among them, if any, as evidenced by repeated posts in these forums by Photoshop engineering staff urging us, the end users, to let the other teams know in their own forums that a given problem exists and is actually affecting our work.
Enough said about the cause of the problem. The end result is that Color Management is at very, very different levels of progress and sophistication in each individual point application, with only Photoshop fully entitled to be considered state of the art.
Secondly, a disclaimer: I have been hanging on to my CRT monitors and take care of them as Jascha Heifetz used to take care of his Stradivarius. I don't know what I will do if I manage to outlive the usefulness and accuracy of my CRTs (unlikely at this point). I have despaired in futile efforts to bring the luminosity of any LCD monitor down to where I would feel comfortable calibrating and profiling it. I believe my monitors are the foundation of my color management efforts.
Especially if you have one of the extreme wide-gamut LCD or LED monitors, you'll face an uphill battle.
Be careful to avoid any version 4 icc profiles, whether canned or generated by your calibration software. Stick to version2 icc profiles. Ask the manufacturer of your calibration software/hardware if in doubt.
Here are some not-too-recent, but thoroughly representative screen shots of the calibration results I obtain with my monitors, which I calibrate and profile often and regularly (I validate the calibration at least several times per month).
In a nutshell, my color management practices and settings mirror those described by Bruce Fraser, Jeff Schewe, Andrew Rodney and Gary Ballard's site. I have learned from all of them.
My working color space is ProPhoto RGB. I choose to work with PSD and PSB files. As a long-time, rabid JPEG hater, I only rarely deal with JPEGs, using them sporadically to illustrate a point in this forum or elsewhere in the web. My main output consists of prints.
I only deal with tagged image files (files with an embedded color profile) and often recommend beating up with a baseball bat any moron that hands you an untagged file—figuratively of course, but I find the expression gets my point across unambiguously.
Following is a screen shot of some of my pertinent settings:
Note that I have never bought into the "suite" concept myself. I do have and routinely use Adobe Illustrator 10.x, InDesign 2.x and Acrobat Professional 8.x, but they are all older, independent versions of each point application, licensed at different times.
Be further advised, that the answer to many problems offered by Adobe engineers often is not to install VersionCue, or uninstall it, or at least disable it.
Also, as outlined at the beginning of this post, concentrate on Photoshop, not on synchronizing applications that can't really communicate with each other, despite the claims of Adobe marketing hacks to the contrary.
One big caveat, do not fall into this trap:
xxxxyyyyz wrote:
…I believe my problem has nothing to do with my monitor profile, for several reasons, but…
…It seems extremely unlikely to me that…
You either want to learn, or you don't. You either want to solve your problems, or you don't.
When you start arguing instead of studying, questioning advice instead of following it and detecting where you went wrong, you're on the right track to nowhere. That attitude will get you there fast. Remember you are the one with the problem, and only you can acquire the discipline to learn how to solve it.
Go ahead and ask me anything that is not clear, just don't argue with me please, and don't tell me why you think Fraser, Rodney, Ballard and I are wrong. You see, I am not experiencing any problem that needs fixing. I have an interest in helping you, but not in hearing about your speculations, theories or conclusions.
Good luck.
Wo Tai Lao Le
我太老了

How to make colors looks same in Lightroom and Photoshop?

The colors of JPGs with sRGB colorspace are displayed differently between Lightroom and Photoshop and other image view applications.
I edited RAW images in Lightroom and export them to JPG files with sRGB colorspace, but their colors are eventually different from what I saw in LR.
(I set ProPhoto as the colorspace for my Photoshop.)
Is there anything I can do to solve this problem? Or maybe to reduce the color difference?
What is the best I can do to manage colors for those images that I want to share on the internet?
Thank you !!!

If colours look different between two colour managed applications such as LR and PS then you have either not calibrated your monitor at all or are using a corrupt monitor profile.
If the former you require a calibration device, such as a Spyder (lots of other around). If the second then re calibrate.
In the meantime you can set your monitor to use a colour space such as sRGB as a profile. This is not a solution, it is a temporary fix. Using a colour space as a monitor profile is not colour management, but will at least make the colour appear the same on your monitor.
There are some useful links concerning colour management and LR here you may wish to read.

Can I use photoshop text styles and photoshop actions with creative cloud photography?

I'm really confused by this subscription pricing. If I purchase the $9.99/month, do I get the full desktop app of Photoshop and Lightroom? But I see on this page Products they list something called Photoshop CC that costs twice as much. How is that different from the Creative Cloud Photography?
My main question is whether I can use photoshop text styles and photoshop actions with Creative Cloud Photography, since I just purchased a bundle that includes these and I want to be able to use them. But I'd also like to understand what comes with all of the various products and how they are different.
My other question is how is Lightroom different from Photoshop? I have a sense of what you can do in Photoshop but I don't know much about Lightroom at all.
One more question: the free trial -- is it limited in any way besides the time length? If I do that, will I get a clear idea of all that I will be able to do once I subscribe, or are the functions limited in the trial?
I tried to just send an email to Adobe to ask these questions but apparently they are not interested in responding to emails from people who are not yet paying customers, so I was directed here. Thanks very much for your help!

I always like to trot this bit about Bridge once in a while or in the voice of the "Two Bobs" from Office Space,
"Can you tell us exactly what it is you do around here?"
What Adobe Bridge does:
Bridge is the coordinating hub of the Creative Suite. Synchronizing color management settings for all suite programs is done from Bridge, and can only be done from Bridge, to take one important use.
Bridge displays actual thumbnails of many more file types than Finder or Explorer. It also allows instant play of sound or video files more readily than the native OS file managers.
Bridge allows direct access to file metadata, to embed copyright information and keywords where appropriate (e.g., for corporate logo vector and raster files). It also displays the fonts used in an InDesign file, the swatches in an INDD or AI and the output plates (including spot color plates) they use.
When managing the assets for a design project, Bridge allows quick and simple sorting, rating and custom labeling (with color flash indications) of assets. I can rate images according to whether they are rejects, possibles, for review by client, or approved. The filters built into Bridge allow instant isolation of only the approved images or designs in a folder, only the rejects (for deletion) or only files with certain ratings, no matter how many files it contains. It recognizes aspect ratios, so if I only need a landscape or a 16:9 image in a folder of hundreds of images, I turn off the aspect ratios I don't need.
Once filtered, the remaining visible files can be selected and copied, moved, or deleted without affecting the rest of the contents of a folder.
Collections are a massively useful feature. One of my clients is a performing arts center, and in a season we turn out dozens of ads, flyers, brochures, web banners, playbills, billboards and other collateral using the same assets over and over. These assets are organized by artist and/or show on disk, but I set up each season's repeating assets as a Collection in Bridge, so that I just have to open the collection and drag and drop these assets into new INDD, AI, PSD, HTML (in Dreamweaver), FLA or AE projects without having to navigate from folder to folder picking up individual files.
Bridge's Favorites is another place I stack frequently-accessed folders, such as stock photography, backgrounds, and top-level folders for active projects.
Assets can be divided into subfolders, but a quick toggle of "Show items from subfolders" exposes all of the assets in a single view while maintaining their organization. I will typically keep AIs, PSDs, EPSs, stock photography and client images in separate subfolders within a project. When I'm ready to start pulling assets into an InDesign layout, I toggle this on and simply drag what I need into the layout.
Bridge comes with Adobe Camera Raw built in, which is many times faster than using Photoshop to adjust jpegs or tiffs for things like tonal range, white balance, cropping, spotting and sharpening, and is non-destructive.
One tremendously useful Bridge function for InDesign CS5+ users is the "Show linked files" feature, which opens all the linked files in a layout into a single view, regardless of where they are physically located. I often use this when doing alternative layouts from a client-approved mockup for a campaign, to be certain the same assets are used in each piece, or when creating a motion graphic or interactive piece for the campaign in After Effects or Flash.
The batch and image processing scripts built into Bridge automate things like creating web-ready small jpegs from multiple images, renaming large numbers of files in place or by copying to an alternative location, creating sets of PSD, png, jpeg or other file types from an assortment of image files, and so on.
Bridge is so much a part of my daily workflow that on my main workstation I have one monitor dedicated to it almost 100%. Bridge just sits open 24/7, ready for use. I would run at half speed without it, no question.

Are Lightroom 5 and Photoshop CC compatible with OS X Mavericks?

Would like to check compatibility of Lightroom 5 and Photoshop CC with OSX Maverick. Will I have to reinstall these apps after I upgrade?

Okay, that is helpful. What resolution you have a file set to makes no difference at all. It can be 10 dpi or 1000 dpi. Resolution only makes a difference to an output device (printer).
Notice to the right that the brush icons, and the brush sample are smooth. So it's not a driver, profile, or monitor resolution or color depth issue. If it were, they'd look just as bad.
So that only leaves the image itself. Though for the life of me, I can't get PS CC to duplicate what you're seeing. The smaller brush stroke to the lower left on your screen shot looks normal, so why are the larger ones banding so badly? It doesn't make sense.
Edit: Oh! Wait, something is wrong here. You have the opacity of the brush set at 27%. So there's no way it should be drawing a solid black center. It should look like below where I changed the opacity to 27% and then drew the grayish strokes.
The opacity is not being represented correctly. No idea at the moment what would be the cause.

Why are the colors in Illustrator and Photoshop so off?

Hi,
Let me just start off by saying I have the color mode in both Illustrator and Photoshop set to RGB. Yet, there is a noticeable color difference between a picture on the internet and when I paste it in for example Photoshop.
Picture from the internet:
Picture when pasted in Photoshop:
It's the same thing in Illustrator. And this is not just with pictures by the way, it's affects all the colors I use, which is a major pain in the rear.
Anyone know a fix?

Well, my suggestion in post #13, was to help me find out what the cause of your problem is. It doesn’t solve your problem permanently but temporarily, only for the current session of Photoshop or Illustrator by making these programs show your image without applying any color management conversions. So, you have to do this every time you open such files in these programs.
If you want to understand what is going on and be in control, you have to go through a lot of walls of text unfortunately .
I’ll try to explain it roughly but if you don’t understand it you need to read more about color management.
You are using Safari and this is how its color management works:
https://developer.apple.com/library/safari/technotes/tn2220/_index.html
on that page it says:
"Important: For images that are not tagged with a color profile, their color values will be displayed on the screen by Safari with no optimization or adjustment for differences between devices in how they render colors. This may result in the colors not being displayed as originally intended"
This made me think that like most images on the web, the image you are using doesn’t have a color profile. In that case, assuming a certain scenario based on your input, the reason it is displayed differently from Photoshop and Illustrator is because you have a color profile of your monitor used by your system that is different than the color space used for the display of the image. By default RGB Images without a color profile are displayed using the color space set for the working space in the Color Settings of Photoshop and Illustrator. Also by default this color space is sRGB. If your monitor was also with an sRGB profile assigned in the system, which is the case with all monitors that come without a color profile provided from the manufacturer, you should have not experienced this problem because Photoshop and Illustrator will see that the color space you want to display your image is sRGB and your monitor is sRGB, and there will be no color conversions because both color spaces, source and destination are the same. Unless someone else has setup your system ,color management, and installed a monitor profile, my guess is that the manufacturer of your monitor has provided a color profile installed in your system that is not sRGB.
When you choose View > Proof Setup > Monitor RGB, this in effect turns off the color management because you are displaying the image in the same color space as the one assigned to your monitor.
If you want to turn off the color management permanently which will be valid only when displaying images in the sRGB color space, you can assign the sRGB color profile to your monitor. This will show the images on your monitor with the same colors as those displayed without color management in the other applications and choosing View > Proof Setup > Monitor RGB will make no difference.
Non color managed programs can display the color only in the way your monitor displays it. Color managed programs simulate other outputs on your monitor. The only way to match the display in color managed and non color managed software is to turn off the color managed software. This will display the same color values with the same color in all programs on your monitor.
The purpose of the color management is to allow the viewer see the colors as intended (the way the creator sees them when creating the image). Different devices and media output the same color values differently resulting in different color. Therefore, when the viewer uses different device or media the colors if not color managed properly will look different or not as close as possible.
When you turn off the color management, or even when it is on but not properly applied, which I suspect is the case in your situation, you can’t be sure that the colors you see are as intended. In other words, you can’t tell if an image is supposed to look the way you see it, and you can’t create images providing means that will allow others to see them the way you see them.
So, for whatever reasons you want to make colors look the same in all your programs, have in mind that this is valid only on the current state of your monitor, and this also cuts the possibility to see and send to others colors as intended.

Touchscreen monitor and photoshop

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