Tracing a Photograph
Hello Illustrator users and experts:
I am trying to trace raised studs on the sole in the following image:
To create a logo. As a Illustrator beginning user; is there a certain efficient procedure for this task? Thank you so much for the assistance.
I don't think the contrast is high enough to have Illustrator trace it with good results.
Perhaps it's easier to:
1. Put the image on a layer on its own.
2. Set its transparency to 20% (about -- you should be able to clearly see the black lines you're about to add in the next step)
3. Lock this layer.
4. Add a new layer above it, and draw the studs with the pen tool.
Similar Messages
-
After tracing a photograph, I have discovered that there are certain strokes within my tracing that cannot be narrowed less than 1 point. Some of the lines were done with the pen tool and some were done with the pencil tool but the tool used seems to have no relation to the problem. I have selected the entire drawing with the Select > All command. All of the lines (except for three) can be thinned down to 0.25 pts. How can I unlock the width of those three lines; they always seem to be wider than the other lines regardless of where I set the stroke control. Is there a lock command that I may have inadvertently activated? If so, I can't find it nor undue it.
Okay, I checked the transform panel, selected stubborn pathways, unchecked align to pixel grid, changed the stroke weight to 0.5 pt., and voila! No more locked stroke weight pathways! I can now select All and change all pathways to whatever stroke weight I want and all pathways respond. Problem solved (Maybe), but how did only 5 pathways become affected by the align to pixel grid in the first place???
Anyway, thank you!
Another question; accidentally yesterday, when I was using the pencil tool, the pencil cursor icon changed to a (+) symbol. How can I control that? I find that it is much easier to draw accurately using the pencil if there is not a large pencil cursor icon blocking my view. With the (+) I had pinpoint accuracy. Today I haven't been able to find the (+) cursor symbol even by accident.
GRiZ -
Hi, I'm hoping this is a really simple enquiry. Basically I'm tracing a photograph using the pen tool. When I release the mouse to use the 'alt' key to drag anchor point in, I can't see the handles. It never used to be this way. Any ideas? Thanks
Just restarted Illustrator and it seems to be ok now - must be a glitch of some sort because this is happening intermittently.
By the way just found a great site for photoshop/illustrator etc. cheat sheets:
http://www.allgraphicdesign.com/graphicsblog/2008/11/26/27-adobe-photoshop-cheat-sheets%20 -and-quick-reference-cards-for-adobe-photoshop-cs4-cs3-cs2-and-below/ -
How can I make a photograph large enough for large format printing?
Is there a way to make an image larger on photoshop or illustrator? I will be printing on a large format latex printer. So the printer itself is excellent but its the image that i am struggling to acquire.
I have basic knowledge of the programmes but if you could explain it to me i could figure it out.....
I am aware of rasterize and vectors, but please could you explain how they work, and if that is my solution.
I want to keep the original photograph as realistic as possible (would prefer not to have it traced on illustrator) and from research it says simply increasing the image size amount of pixels on photoshop does not help...perhaps it does, if you know please help!
This will be a print for an interior wall of an exhibition trailer, and we want to cover all the walls. Plus in future we will be printing for vehicle wraps so I need this knowledge! Help meLet e try to explain briefly...
"Is there a way to make an image larger on photoshop or illustrator? I will be printing on a large format latex printer. So the printer itself is excellent but its the image that i am struggling to acquire.
- The actual resolution necessary to print grand format depends on the printer. Most of the large-to-grand format inkjets print at 600dpi. Photoshop is the better application for sizig images, while Illustrator is the better application for sizing graphics ( ie., logos ) and type. Use Illustrator to layout both the images and the graphics. You typically would send the print vendor an appropriate PDF file ( that can be scaled ).
I have basic knowledge of the programmes but if you could explain it to me i could figure it out.....
I am aware of rasterize and vectors, but please could you explain how they work, and if that is my solution.
I want to keep the original photograph as realistic as possible (would prefer not to have it traced on illustrator) and from research it says simply increasing the image size amount of pixels on photoshop does not help...perhaps it does, if you know please help!
- You most certainly can use photographs in large format. The problem is you will have to setup the file scaled down. In some cases, the output will have to be assembled in sections. Let's take a section of 10 feet high x 36 feet long. You'd setup your Illustrator file 2.5 feet high x 9 feet long ( 25% ) or 30 inch x 108 inch to be enlarged at the printer 400%. Each time you enlarge an image 2x you cut its resolution in half. So, an image starting at 300ppi will end up at 75ppi. So, your image file would need to be 300ppi at 25%. 75ppi sounds low, right? In actuality, it is enough to print grand format and the image appears smooth. Now the question becomes, how do I get an image large enough in Photoshop? Remember, you'll need a 30" x 108" image plus bleed at 300ppi ( Placed in Illustrator at 100% ). There are applications like Genuine Fractals or Image Doctor's "Blowup" which will enlarge an image file without degradation. I use Genuine Fractals and the results are phenominal.
This will be a print for an interior wall of an exhibition trailer, and we want to cover all the walls. Plus in future we will be printing for vehicle wraps so I need this knowledge! Help me "
- It'll become easier as you do more of this type of work. The amount you end up scaling is up to you. There are limitations as to how big a document can be in Illustrator. I like 25% because it is similar to working on a print ad that is high resolution. Another thing to remember is set your raster effects to High in Illustrator. They will be retained in the PDF which will be enlarged 400% and the ending raster effects will be 75ppi just like the image. Also, feel free to contact the print vendor and ask them questions. You could send them what I've written here and see if they agree. Let me know if you have any further questions. -
I have a new MacBook Air 11 inch, 4gb RAM, 256 SSD and use Mavericks OS. It is still under waranty period.
Just few days ago while I was uploading a photograph in facebook, the screen started flickering abnoromally. I tried using the escape button but nothing was working so switched off by pressing the power button.
After few minutes I tried to switch it on but my system never waked up. Called up the Apple Support, did SMC and PRAM but nothing worked. Then I was advised to take it to Apple's authorised service centre.
At the service centre the engineers diagnoised and then said that the MLB/mother board needs to be replaced. Had waited for six-long days and today they had replaced the MLB/mother board. Now, the system came to life but nothing has booted. The screen goes white and a '?' question mark icon keeps on flickering.
After thoroughly diagnoising it the engineer said that now the problem is with the SSD and the worse thing is all my important documents and photographs etc are no more there. And I don't have a backup of the same!
While Apple Support contact centre is assuring they would replace any other parts if found faulty, but I feel differently. First, the MLB/mother board was changed now they say it is SSD problem - so if the SSD too is replaced there are possibilities of more faults coming up. All I can see and feel that this particular machine has turned out to be architectually deffective that calls for immediate replacement.
Right now I am using a friend's windows pc to write this mail.
Feeling completely miserable - all my expectatations gone after investing in such an expensive machine, loss of all my data, wastage of time and energy and to top it all affecting my daily work.
Can anybody please advise what shall I do?Take the system to an Apple store to be fixed or replaced as the one you have has defective hardware.
-
How can I display step info in User Interface with Tracing Disabled?
I'm trying to modify the CVI Operator Interface application to update the execute panel with some step information during the execution of the program. i.e. I want to display the measurement, high & low limits during the run WHEN TRACING IS DISABLED. (Doing this, when tracing is enabled is easy, all you do is access the step record that's been constructed (I can cope with that!))
I've successfully implemented a User defined execution event to signal the User Interface application when the current step is a result (using TS_UIMsg_UserMessageBase etc. I'm posting a UI Message in the Process Model under the ProcessModelPostStep so that I will only display if its a result step.) I've added a user defined
entry in the execute.c module execution event switch statement which will call a function in the exedisp.c module to update the display. However, I don't have a context to the step that I can use. (I can't use e.g. the exeRec record since this is only completed with the context if tracing is enabled.) I've got a handle to the correct panel to write the information to, but how do I get the context to the current step when tracing is disabled?
Regards,
BrianHi,
no problem - btw, if you wanted to acheive this in TS 1.x, you could always write to a local variable with the ActiveX reference for the step concerned, and then use the msg reference that you have in the OI within the UI Message handler, to dig through to the Execution ->Sequence File->Sequence->Locals, or Execution->Thread->SequenceContext (and you can get almost anywhere from that).
Hope that helps
S.
// it takes almost no time to rate an answer -
How can I create a silky gauzy dress for a model in a photograph?
I am trying to create fabric, a long white flowing dress for a model in one of my photographs. Does any one have any tips for a relatively easy way to do this in Photoshop. She is in shorts and a tank top and I thought I could figure out an easy way to paint on a dress for her, but so far I am not having any luck....Thanks for any suggestions.
Painting a dress from scratch is most difficult, unless you are an artist with a lot of experience.
The much easier way is to search for a photograph of a dress you like, then cut and paste it to the new photo. The key here is to have both pictues with the same light angle so the shadows are in the right spot.
Once you get it pasted, click Ctrl T then size and rotate it. The next stop is to use edit/warp to reshape dress to fit model. You can fine tune it with puppet warp.
Final step is to erase any excess dress material and add body shadows as needed to match the original shot.
Take a New Snapshot every so often so if you make mistake you do not have to go back to square 1, but can restart at snapshot X. Save PSD every so often in case program crashes.
Hope this helps. -
I have enough room on my ipad for all 600 photos.
I have tried to sync the photos through iTunes by choosing the USB drive on my computer. The folder appears empty.
I have purchased a lightning to USB camera kit and nothing happened once I plugged the USB into the ipad.
I thought since the lighting to SD card reader I've been using with my camera works maybe I'll try uploading a photo or two onto the SD card and use the lighting to SD card reader and do it that way. I see the photo I chose on the camera when the SD card is inserted into my desktop, but once I insert it into the camera kit on ipad it doesn't show up. The other photos I have taken show up but not the ones I copied over onto it show up.
I wonder if our photographer saved the photos in such a way to prevent me from syncing them? I have permission and the rights to use them so that's probably unlikely. The photos are saved as jpegs.
My other thought is maybe the photos are too large in size to upload onto the ipad? Is there a limit? Under properties they are listed around 400kb and 1800x1200 in dimension.
Please help! I'm wanting to make a photo book for the holidays as a gift with one of the ipad apps.
Thank you in advanceHi Kat U,
Many thanks for your question today.
I am happy to assist you in this process and this method of helping you today will not involve you using your Camera Connection Kit from Apple.
This method of downloading images onto the iPad requires the following items:
The USB
A computer/Mac with a USB Port
The iPad
iTunes (preferably iTunes 11, but it won't make much difference if you have iTunes 10)
Before we start I have based this resolution on the basis that you use:
iPad 4 with iOS 7.0.0 or better
iTunes 10 or better
Mac OS X Mountain Lion or better or Windows 7 or better
Here are my steps to resolve your issue:
Insert the USB drive into your computer and then go into the folder in windows explorer or finder where the images are saved on your USB.
Save all the images from the USB under one folder on your own folder in your document/image folders (not on the USB). On the Hard Drive
Remove your USB stick from your computer
Insert your iPad with the lightning connector into your Mac/PC.
When iTunes pops up click on the iPad icon/textbox - it may say (i.e. Name's iPad). (If iTunes does not pop up open it up manually by clicking twice on the icon on your desktop or Dock Taskbar).
Click on Photo's Tab and the tick the tick box for: sync photos from
Click my pictures (located next to sync photos from), then navigate around your folders until you choose the folder where you copied your images from the USB stick to and once you have found the folder click select folder.
Press sync.
Go to your iPad once it has synced and log in, click on photos then albums (located bottom right of the menu/screen) then click on the Album of the images - (its name will be what the Album's name was on your computer).
Your images should be located there.
If this resolution does not work, you have three other options
Try the solution provided by the gentleman above using the Camera Connection Kit
Call Apple - American number is 1800-MY-APPLE (1800-692-7753) and go through to AppleCare for iPad
Take the USB and iPad to your closest Apple Store and get a Genius to look and possibly fix the problem.
Many Thanks for your question and allowing me the time to possibly resolve your issue. I hope to hear from you soon regarding this issue.
iBenjamin
<Email Edited by Host> -
I used to have an OLD Photoshop cd but it has been lost and my program is no longer on cd. I talked with some photographer friends and this is what one of them told me to get: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom and CS CC... HELP please?
If you still have your serial number, look at OLDER previous versions http://www.adobe.com/downloads/other-downloads.html
Otherwise, the US$ 9.99 plan is what is current at Cloud Plans https://creative.adobe.com/plans -
How do I upload photographs from browser in Windows 7?
I don't see the option to upload photographs in my adobe revel window in my browser. Could you help please?
I am using a windows 7 PC with Internet Explorer 9http://forums.adobe.com/community/revel
This forum is about the Cloud as a delivery process, not about using individual programs
If you start at the Forums Index http://forums.adobe.com/index.jspa
You will be able to select a forum for the specific Adobe product(s) you use
Click the "down arrow" symbol on the right (where it says ALL FORUMS) to open the drop down list and scroll -
How much future useage for CS6 for a stand-alone photographer?
I'm a semi professional small-scale photographer. It's a hobby, but I do some commercial work. It certainly isn't a living (I have other income)
I've been on CS6 for some time. It does absolutely everything that I need, and in fact it's too much. I could do with an application that's somewhere between Lightroom+Elements and CS6. It doesn't exist.
But as I've paid for CS6 I'm quite happy to keep on using it ad infinitum - after all, with no more upgrades (CS7 etc) it's free now! But at a realistic level how long can I run it for, do you think? I run a good spec desktop PC with Windows 7. I use CS6 in 64bit mode, and also Bridge. Assuming my PC fails in 12 months time (it's three years old) I will get a new destop using Windows 8. CS6 will run under Windows 8, so no problems there. My new desktop may last 5 years? That gives me a total of 6 years using CS6.
Of course, there will need to be support from Adobe for CS6, in particular if any significant bugs arise. But why should there be new bugs, unless they are in relation to third-party plugins etc? CS6 has been out for some time. Adobe are not going to change it (they have their head stuck in a cloud) so it shouldn't get broken. Or am I wrong in thinking that?
Any thoughts?
To upgrade to CS6 http://www.adobe.com/uk/products/catalog/cs6._sl_id-contentfilter_sl_catalog_sl_software_s l_creativesuite6.html?start=10
In the Photoshop CS6 row, click the Buy link
"I want to buy:", click on the dropdown menu and select Upgrade
click "I own" and on the dropdown menu select the relevant product which you already own
Follow the prompts from there to complete the purchaseCurt Y wrote:
That is the problem you have with any upgrade if you use the new features.
CC is more a trap then an upgrade.
A Photoshop only user is better off staying with CS6 and not be being trap.
While I would prefer to have the new features being added to ACR. I do not need the new improved old features with their new interfaces, new icons and new bugs. These change post processing work flow they only seem to slow user down and make more work for them. I also do not need or want the 3D tools. Photoshop is not a 3D program by design. Photoshop 3D feature is more an add-on and lacks features found in real 3D creation programs.
I want a stable image editor. While CS6 has bugs I know which bugs effect my work and know my way around most. Photoshop CS6 still occasionally crashes from time to time but now on my new machine it only seems to happen in SciptUIFlex and I can use Photoshop for days without a crash. Today was not one of them.
To tell you the truth all upgrade after CS3 have been plagued with bugs. I was not looking forward to having to upgrade to CS7.
It look like CC has its share of bugs too. Though CC seems to be starting off better then CS6 did. While there have been a few dozen bugs reported in Adobe's Photoshop Family problem forum. That is not a large number and most are not problems with CC crashing. -
Is there a phone number to call Adobe. I go around an endless loop pressing their contact info tabs? Maybe someone at this sight can help. I am new to digital photo - I have been a B&W film photographer for many years. I have a problem with a Macbook Air. It was working fine - I was using LR and a message came on the screen that said something like the memory was dangerously low. I stopped and tried to delete LR files. I couldn't do it. I closed the program and tried reopening and got the message that there is not enough memory available to open LR. I contacted Apple. They spent a half hour on the phone with me and eventually told me they didn't know how to help. The tech said that LR had gobbled up all the memory and said I should contact Adobe and ask where and how my photo files are stored and to delete them. I have several back-ups. Thanks - Arthur
This sort of error message only comes up for Lightroom when your hard disk is full. Indeed this has nothing to do with internal memory as that will be intelligently be dealt with. If you have a mac Book Air that is not so surprising as the cheapest versions come with very small hard disks and if you shoot raw with any recent camera, you'll fill up your hard disk very quickly and you can probably only store a few months of pictures if you are a typical photographer. So the bottom line is that you need to create some room on your hard disk. You should move some of your originals to an external hard disk. You can also delete some of your backup copies of your catalog file that Lightroom automatically generates every few days and that quickly gobble up hard disk space. So first figure out how full your hard disk is. To see that, go to the apple menu, hit -> About this Mac -> More info->Storage. You should see your internal hard disk on top and you'll find that it is almost entirely full with photos. Now find your Lightroom catalog file using Finder. It is usually in a folder in the Pictures folder in your home directory. You should see a Lightroom 5 Catalog.lrcat file, a previews file and a folder called backups. Inside the backups folder, you'll find a lot of subfolders. They have names that show the dates the backups were created. If you have backups of your entire hard disk, you can delete these backups when they are older than a few months. I usually only keep the last 4 around. Just drag the folders into the trash can on the dock on the bottom of your screen and empty the trash. This will probably free up enough space that Lightroom will already run again. Now start thinking about where you will want to store older images. If you have a good USB3 or Thunderbolt hard disk that is probably the best option. There is a video here by Adobe that has some instructions on how to do this: Is Your Hard Drive Full? Here’s How to Move Images to Another Drive in Lightroom. « Julieanne Kost's Blog If that doesn't work because you don't have enough hard drive space to run Lightroom yet, here is another set of instructions to move your files using the finder to the other hard disk: How do I move only my photos to another hard drive, leaving the catalog where it is? - The Lightroom Queen. If you follow that, as soon as you confirm all your images are on the new hard disk, you can delete them from your internal one. She is not so clear about that part but if you don't delete the originals that you moved off you don't free up space. You should move the folder structure over to the new hard disk and then reconnect the folders in Lightroom. That should make it refind all your images.
That said, if you are uncomfortable with the computer in itself, your best bet is to find a local photography club. There is invariably a Lightroom savvy person in there that could help you move your files. That might be your best bet if you are uncomfortable moving these yourself. A general mac savvy person like you would find at an Apple store or so generally will not be able to help you with this except when they are photographers themselves and know Lightroom. You might get lucky with that. -
I would appreciate it if someone could advise me as to the optimum resolution, dimensions and dpi for actual photographic slides that I am scanning for use in a Keynote Presentation, that will be projected in a large auditorium. I realize that most projectors in auditoriums that I will be using have 1024 x 1200 pixels, and possibly 1600 x 1200. There is no reference to this issue in the Keynote Tutorial supplied by Apple, and I have never found a definitive answer to this issue online (although there may be one).
Here’s my question: When scanning my photographic slides, what setting, from 72 dpi to 300 dpi, would result in the best image quality and use up the most efficient amount of space?
Here’s what two different photo slide scanning service suppliers have told me:
Supplier No. 1 tells me that they can scan slides to a size of 1544 x 1024 pixels, at 72 dpi, which will be 763 KB, and they refer to this as low resolution (a JPEG). However, I noticed when I looked at these scanned slides, the size of the slides varied, with a maximum of 1.8 MB. This supplier says that the dpi doesn’t matter when it comes to the quality of the final digital image, that it is the dimensions that matter. They say that if they scanned a slide to a higher resolution (2048 x 3072), they would still scan it at 72 dpi.
Supplier No. 2: They tell me that in order to have a high quality image made from a photographic slide (starting with a 35 mm slide, in all cases), I need to have a “1280 pixel dimension slide, a JPEG, at 300 dpi, that is 8 MB per image.” However, this supplier also offers, on its list of services, a “Standard Resolution JPEG (4MB file/image – 3088 x 2048), as well as a “High Resolution JPEG (8 MB file/image – 3088x2048).
I will be presenting my Keynotes with my MacBook Pro, and will not have a chance to try out the presentations in advance, since the lecture location is far from my home, so that is not an option.
I do not want to use up more memory than necessary on my laptop. I also want to have the best quality image.
One more question: When scanning images myself, on my own scanner, for my Keynote presentations, would I be better off scanning them as JPEGs or TIFFs? I have been told that a TIFF is better because it is less compressed.
Any enlightenment on this subject would be appreciated.
Thank you.When it comes to Keynote, I try and start with a presentation that's 1680 x 1050 preset or something in that range. Most projectors that you'll get at a conference won't project much higher than that and if they run at a lower resolution, it's better to have the device downsize your Keynote. Anything is better than having the projector try and upsize your presentation... you work hard to make it look good, and it's mangled by some tired Epson projector.
As far as slides go, scan them in at 150 dpi or better, and make them at least the dimensions of your presentation. Keynote is really only wanting 72dpi, but I do them at 150, just in case I need to print out the presentation as a handout later, and having the pix at 150 dpi gives me a little help with their quality on a printer.
You'd probably have to drop in the 150 versions again if you output the Keynote to .pdf or Word or something, but at least you have the option.
And Gary's right (above) go ahead and scan them as TIFFs. Sooner or later you'll want to do something else with these slides (like make something for an iPad or the like) and having them as TIFFs keeps your presentation looking good.
Finally, and this is a big one, get to the location for your presentation ahead of time if you can, and plug the laptop in and see what you get. There's always connection problems. Don't let the AV bonehead tell you everything will work just fine ('... I don't have any adapters for a Mac...') . See it for yourself... you're the one that's standing up there. Unless it's your boss, then you better be really sure it works. -
Hello! So i'm not super computer savvy so bear with me. I just bought an external hard drive for my ibook and I believe I transferred everything to the external from my laptop. But, I'm having trouble finding all of my photographs on the external hard drive and I'm afraid I've lost a number of them because I deleted a large amount once I made the transfer. When I try to open my library from the external hard drive, a caution message pops up. I've looked at a number of discussion forums and tried to open iphoto with the option key to open a different library but there is only one library available and it takes me back to the photo library as it is on my laptop hard drive. Any suggestions? Does this mean I lost the photos I deleted? And if so, will someone help me learn how to trasnfer files properly?
Thanks!
BlairWhen I try to open my library from the external hard drive, a caution message pops up.
Exactly what do you see? -
How to Create/Locate Offline Photographs, Revisited
I hope this updated procedure may be useful to others: I believe that I have evolved a viable scheme (in Lightroom 2.4 under Windows XP), both for importing old photographs that had been burned onto CD/DVD, and for burning and moving offline new photographs that have been imported directly from a camera onto the hard drive in LR. The goal is to get ALL photos into the online LR catalog while keeping the most recent image files online only until enough inactive ones have accumulated to fill a new CD/DVD. If anyone still archiving to CD/DVD has the patience to read through this long post, any corrections or improvements would be greatly appreciated! (In any case, it's been helpful to me to write it up.)
0) Background: My old photo CDs (ISO 9669 Mode 1 Level II) each contain a parent directory named according camera/photographer (e.g., "MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS") and numerous sub-directories named either by capture date or by import date, according to the proprietary software that was originally used to import them. These CDs also have hand-written disk names (e.g., "My Canon Photographs III") by which they can be manually identified. (I didn't bother giving the CDs unique electronic names, nor does it appear that it would have helped much if I had. Am I wrong here?) One of my goals is to keep this disk labeling and directory structure as consistent as possible going forward, burning new disks with third-party software that features a verify-after-burn cycle (and using high-quality media, of course) for data security. Minor differences in date format of the old, proprietarily generated folder names also makes it convenient to keep them segregated under separate parent directories in LR, as on the CDs themselves (see section 2 below).
1) To import pre-existing photographs from CD/DVD into a LR catalog WITHOUT moving the image files to the HD (the easy part): Insert the CD and click "File/Import Photos from Disk..." Select the parent directory on the CD. (This parent should be reflected in a parent folder within the LR catalog. If not, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder.") Click "Import All Photos in Selected Folder," and wait for "Computing dates..." to complete. Under File Handling select "Add photos to catalog without moving." Under Keywords, add the name written on the CD/DVD (e.g., "CD-My_Canon_Photographs_III"), along with any other desired keywords. (This keywording is the step that allows the offline source of individual catalogued photos to be manually identified.) Click Import. Note that keywords should not contain spaces; substitute hyphens, underscores, or similar. The LR Text filter -- the only facility that allows a "Don't Contain," or logical NOT, option -- does not currently allow searches on phrases containing spaces. (The familiar Windows quote marks don't work.)
2) To import new photos from a camera to HD in LR (also easy): Connect the camera and click "File/Import Photos from Device..." Under File Handling retain "Copy photos to a new location and add to catalog." Under Copy to, choose an exsiting, or create a new, parent directory, as appropriate (e.g., "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS" -- this to maintain consistency with existing CD structure). Under Organize choose "By date: YYYY-MM-DD" (according to your preference), and leave File Naming as "Filename" or change as desired. (Note that in my case there are slight differences in date format in LR as compared to the old proprietary software used for earlier CDs, e.g., hypens in place of underscores. If these will create folder-sequencing problems in the catalog later on, it is best to use a different parent directory for the LR-imported pictures -- e.g., "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS.") Under Keywords, add something like "NOT_YET_ARCHIVED" (as a reminder) along with any other desired keywords. Click Import. If at the end of the process you don't see the parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder."
3) To burn new photos to CD/DVD and delete them from the HD (the tricky part):
a) First, use LR's "Library/New Folder" to create a unique new parent directory on the HD (e.g., "Photo DVD II" -- this may as well become the name hand-written on the optical disk for later manual identification), in my case under "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\," to contain the entire directory structure that you want to burn to a SINGLE optical disk. In my case this structure consists of a sequence of dated subdirectories under one or more existing parent directories like "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS." Then, still in LR, drag and drop these existing parent directories onto the new parent, one by one. These steps are important, as they will greatly simplify the process of redirecting the LR catalog to point to the new offline files -- see step 3.c below. Finally, select all of the photos in this directory structure and (in the Grid view!) add a keyword (e.g., "DVD-Photo_DVD_II"), to be sure that you will know which offline media to load when you want access to these photographs in the future.
b) It may be wise at this point to select the relevant directory structure and click "Metadata/Save Metadata to Files," to make sure that all of your metadata work will be saved in the image files on CD/DVD. Then close LR and use third-party burning software (with verify!) to burn the above directory structure, INCLUDING the newly created parent directory, onto the CD/DVD. Don't forget to hand-write a name on the disk (in this case, "Photo DVD II") by which it can be manually identified later.
c) Restart LR, right-click on the newly created parent folder (in this example, "Photo DVD II"), and select "Update Folder Location..." Navigate to the corresponding parent (now root) directory on the new CD/DVD, and click OK. This procedure should re-link all the sub-folders and photographs in the newly burned part of the LR catalog to the corresponding directories/image files on the optical disk. You will see these sub-folders disappear from under the HD heading and re-appear in the newly created parent folder under the optical-drive heading. (Again, if you don't see this parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the newly burned, second-level folders and select "Add Parent Folder.")
d) Only after you are completely satisfied that the CD/DVD burn was successful and your photographs are safe, close LR and (using the Windows Explorer, or whatever) delete the newly burned directory structure from the HD. Back in LR, the thumbnails and metadata for the now-moved photographs will still be accessible in the appropriate folders under the optical drive. If the CD/DVD is removed, the directory structure will be "grayed out," with question marks to indicate "missing" folders; but browsing, keywording, etc. can still be done. If you want to "Develop" or otherwise work with the actual images, you have only to identify the correct optical media and re-insert it into the drive. If you want to do extensive work on, or otherwise re-catalog, these photographs, however, you can always (outside LR) copy the entire directory tree from the optical drive back onto the HD and then reverse the process described in 3.c above to re-link the catalog to the on-line copy.
e) Finally, delete the "NOT YET ARCHIVED" keyword on all of the burned photographs, now in the CD/DVD folder. (Don't forget to Select All in the Grid view!)
f) Just one more thought. Some evidently feel that DVDs are not reliable long-term storage. My current solution to this potential problem is to burn the original photographs onto CD-R's, structured similarly to the old CDs described in Section 0 above, as soon as they are imported, before any work is done on them in LR. These CDs can be stored offsite, just in case the DVDs fail. Personally, however, I don't want to maintain a RAID system of external hard drives, and I trust DVD+R's more than I trust the HD in my laptop.
Thanks in advance for any comments. -- JClarkWI hope this updated procedure may be useful to others: I believe that I have evolved a viable scheme (in Lightroom 2.4 under Windows XP), both for importing old photographs that had been burned onto CD/DVD, and for burning and moving offline new photographs that have been imported directly from a camera onto the hard drive in LR. The goal is to get ALL photos into the online LR catalog while keeping the most recent image files online only until enough inactive ones have accumulated to fill a new CD/DVD. If anyone still archiving to CD/DVD has the patience to read through this long post, any corrections or improvements would be greatly appreciated! (In any case, it's been helpful to me to write it up.)
0) Background: My old photo CDs (ISO 9669 Mode 1 Level II) each contain a parent directory named according camera/photographer (e.g., "MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS") and numerous sub-directories named either by capture date or by import date, according to the proprietary software that was originally used to import them. These CDs also have hand-written disk names (e.g., "My Canon Photographs III") by which they can be manually identified. (I didn't bother giving the CDs unique electronic names, nor does it appear that it would have helped much if I had. Am I wrong here?) One of my goals is to keep this disk labeling and directory structure as consistent as possible going forward, burning new disks with third-party software that features a verify-after-burn cycle (and using high-quality media, of course) for data security. Minor differences in date format of the old, proprietarily generated folder names also makes it convenient to keep them segregated under separate parent directories in LR, as on the CDs themselves (see section 2 below).
1) To import pre-existing photographs from CD/DVD into a LR catalog WITHOUT moving the image files to the HD (the easy part): Insert the CD and click "File/Import Photos from Disk..." Select the parent directory on the CD. (This parent should be reflected in a parent folder within the LR catalog. If not, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder.") Click "Import All Photos in Selected Folder," and wait for "Computing dates..." to complete. Under File Handling select "Add photos to catalog without moving." Under Keywords, add the name written on the CD/DVD (e.g., "CD-My_Canon_Photographs_III"), along with any other desired keywords. (This keywording is the step that allows the offline source of individual catalogued photos to be manually identified.) Click Import. Note that keywords should not contain spaces; substitute hyphens, underscores, or similar. The LR Text filter -- the only facility that allows a "Don't Contain," or logical NOT, option -- does not currently allow searches on phrases containing spaces. (The familiar Windows quote marks don't work.)
2) To import new photos from a camera to HD in LR (also easy): Connect the camera and click "File/Import Photos from Device..." Under File Handling retain "Copy photos to a new location and add to catalog." Under Copy to, choose an exsiting, or create a new, parent directory, as appropriate (e.g., "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\MY_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS" -- this to maintain consistency with existing CD structure). Under Organize choose "By date: YYYY-MM-DD" (according to your preference), and leave File Naming as "Filename" or change as desired. (Note that in my case there are slight differences in date format in LR as compared to the old proprietary software used for earlier CDs, e.g., hypens in place of underscores. If these will create folder-sequencing problems in the catalog later on, it is best to use a different parent directory for the LR-imported pictures -- e.g., "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS.") Under Keywords, add something like "NOT_YET_ARCHIVED" (as a reminder) along with any other desired keywords. Click Import. If at the end of the process you don't see the parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the new dated sub-folders and select "Add Parent Folder."
3) To burn new photos to CD/DVD and delete them from the HD (the tricky part):
a) First, use LR's "Library/New Folder" to create a unique new parent directory on the HD (e.g., "Photo DVD II" -- this may as well become the name hand-written on the optical disk for later manual identification), in my case under "...\My Pictures\Lightroom\," to contain the entire directory structure that you want to burn to a SINGLE optical disk. In my case this structure consists of a sequence of dated subdirectories under one or more existing parent directories like "LR_CANON_PHOTOGRAPHS." Then, still in LR, drag and drop these existing parent directories onto the new parent, one by one. These steps are important, as they will greatly simplify the process of redirecting the LR catalog to point to the new offline files -- see step 3.c below. Finally, select all of the photos in this directory structure and (in the Grid view!) add a keyword (e.g., "DVD-Photo_DVD_II"), to be sure that you will know which offline media to load when you want access to these photographs in the future.
b) It may be wise at this point to select the relevant directory structure and click "Metadata/Save Metadata to Files," to make sure that all of your metadata work will be saved in the image files on CD/DVD. Then close LR and use third-party burning software (with verify!) to burn the above directory structure, INCLUDING the newly created parent directory, onto the CD/DVD. Don't forget to hand-write a name on the disk (in this case, "Photo DVD II") by which it can be manually identified later.
c) Restart LR, right-click on the newly created parent folder (in this example, "Photo DVD II"), and select "Update Folder Location..." Navigate to the corresponding parent (now root) directory on the new CD/DVD, and click OK. This procedure should re-link all the sub-folders and photographs in the newly burned part of the LR catalog to the corresponding directories/image files on the optical disk. You will see these sub-folders disappear from under the HD heading and re-appear in the newly created parent folder under the optical-drive heading. (Again, if you don't see this parent folder in the LR catalog, right-click on any of the newly burned, second-level folders and select "Add Parent Folder.")
d) Only after you are completely satisfied that the CD/DVD burn was successful and your photographs are safe, close LR and (using the Windows Explorer, or whatever) delete the newly burned directory structure from the HD. Back in LR, the thumbnails and metadata for the now-moved photographs will still be accessible in the appropriate folders under the optical drive. If the CD/DVD is removed, the directory structure will be "grayed out," with question marks to indicate "missing" folders; but browsing, keywording, etc. can still be done. If you want to "Develop" or otherwise work with the actual images, you have only to identify the correct optical media and re-insert it into the drive. If you want to do extensive work on, or otherwise re-catalog, these photographs, however, you can always (outside LR) copy the entire directory tree from the optical drive back onto the HD and then reverse the process described in 3.c above to re-link the catalog to the on-line copy.
e) Finally, delete the "NOT YET ARCHIVED" keyword on all of the burned photographs, now in the CD/DVD folder. (Don't forget to Select All in the Grid view!)
f) Just one more thought. Some evidently feel that DVDs are not reliable long-term storage. My current solution to this potential problem is to burn the original photographs onto CD-R's, structured similarly to the old CDs described in Section 0 above, as soon as they are imported, before any work is done on them in LR. These CDs can be stored offsite, just in case the DVDs fail. Personally, however, I don't want to maintain a RAID system of external hard drives, and I trust DVD+R's more than I trust the HD in my laptop.
Thanks in advance for any comments. -- JClarkW
Maybe you are looking for
-
Changes in motion not appearing in final cut pro x without restarting fcp x
Changes that I make to templates in FCP X do not appear while FCP X is open. I have to close FCP and reopen it to see the changes. What's up?
-
Xbox 360 elite + apple 23 inch display???
so i found the converter from hdmi to dvi but its really expensive around 400+ and would like to find an alternative so if i was to use the dvi to vga for the 23"display then use the vga adapter on the xbox 360 would that possibly do the job needed?
-
Hello, Has anyone successfully set up NWDS on a Mac? I am trying to run NWDS on my MacbookPro using Windows 7 running on Parallels. I have installed it and downloaded all the updates from the SAP site, and it gave no errors while installing. I can se
-
Adobe InDesign CC (month-to-month);the payment of membership didn't confirm
hi,I pressed the "Confirm Membership" button in the signing page,but the state was keeping in process and didn't show the order was accepted or not.Therefore,How wanna know did i paid already ,because i had logged out and signed again like 2 times .
-
N80.. new firmware v 4.0632.0.38 ?????
v 4.0632.0.38 13-10-2006 RM-92 N-80(05) Code: 0546454 new firmware???????????????????????????????????????? Message Edited by dos_1 on 05-Jul-200705:59 AM Message Edited by dos_1 on 05-Jul-200706:03 AM