Verizon watch out KGB

VERIZON CUSTOMER SERVICE SUCKS!!!!!!!

Good afternoon!
I'd like to offer any assistance I can to help with any concern you've had with Verizon Wireless and our services. Please PM me directly with your concern so I can address them.
Thank you!

Similar Messages

Verizon Navigator: Watch out for wrong directions!

If you downloaded Verizon Navigator, watch out! Make sure the directions are accurate before you start your trip!
I tried to use Verizon Navigator on a trip last week, to return to Raleigh Durham airport from Wilmington, NC. My starting address was in Wilmington, on a standard residential street. (Not a dirt road or unusual location.) My destination was RDU -- the Raleigh Durham Airport -- also a well-known address on I40.
Navigator worked fine during the week for trips around Wilmington, so I thought there would not be a problem with the return to RDU. Wrong! Navigator sent me on a wild goose chase up Route 421. When I reached the junction with Route 17 (with a sign "To I40"), Navigator told me, "Make a legal U-turn then drive 52 miles..." At that point, I knew Navigator was lost. So I took Route 17 to I-40 -- and switched to Google Maps.
This round-about trip up 421 and back to I40 ran through central Wilmington, which wasted 45+ minutes. I almost missed my flight at RDU.
If you decide to use Verizon Navigator, be sure to check the directions and route before you start!
I hope this is helpful,
Mark

Look, not only can you get incorrect information from a Verizon rep, odds are that if you call three different reps with the same question, you will get three different answers - and all three could be wrong.
I called once because activating a new phone had knocked a promo off my account (after I had been assured it wouldn't when I signed up and extended my contract). The first rep told me I couldn't have the promo back, that it was physically impossible to put the code back on my account as the system wouldn't allow it. I hung up and called right back, and rep number 2 said, "No problem," and had it back on in two minutes.
This same rep then told me that the promo was only valid for 12 months, then I'd go back to regular price. When I had signed up and extended my contract, I was assured that the promo would continue the entire two years ( I asked repeatedly). Hung up again, got another rep who told me it would last the entire contract. Asked for a supervisor, who put me on hold for 5 minutes, then came back to tell me it would stay in effect until I changed plans (beyond 2 years if I stay with the same plan)
Three reps, three answers. And don't bother asking them to send you their answer in writing - they will NOT under any circumstances put their words down in writing. They will offer to notate it in your account, but who knows if they actually do. And, how can you prove it's there if the issue arises?

Why Can't Verizon Come out to Help Me?

I've had FiOS TV for quite some time. When the technician came he quickly ran to the door when I asked him to help me program my DVD player and told me it was not compatible and not his priority.
Now (almost 3 years later not being able to use my DVD player), I bought a new BLu-Ray and cannot for the life of me figure out how to hook it up.
I AM WILLING TO PAY FOR VERIZON FOR AN APPOINTMENT TO COME OUT AND HOOK IT UP FOR ME and they refuse and continue to say it is not their responsibiity.
I don't have any friends who know how to do it and it's going on 3 years + that I've had to use my laptop to watch a DVD.
Why can't Verizon come out if I pay and hook it up for me????
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Verizon does not install / set up non-Verizon equipment.
If you are willing to pay to have it configured, then try Geek Squad at Best Buy (but don't expect it to be cheap).
If a forum member gives an answer you like, give them the Kudos they deserve. If a member gives you the answer to your question, mark the answer as Accepted Solution so others can see the solution to the problem.

Watch out for EZ numbers

Watch out for a new class of phone numbers Verizon has termed "EZ numbers". Here in Philadelphia PA they are all in the 215-936 exchange, which was formerly only used for Verizon's weather forecasts. These numbers are an offshoot of 900 and 976 numbers and cost $5.00 per call. They give out passcodes for people to use on datelines, partylines etc. These numbers are never blocked automatically by Verizon; you have to call the business office and request it. Unfortunately knowledge about this is so rare that even some Verizon reps will not know what you are talking about but most will. These numbers are advertised by the datelines and partylines themselves. Also even if you get a block put on for these services, ordering certain optional features on your line such as Do Not Disturb or Call Intercept may cause the block to disappear as itt is not compatible with certain Verizon services. Be careful because if charges are made on your phone from these numbers Verizon will not take them off your bill and will then block BOTH your toll and non basic services until the charges are paid.

I was on the phone with customer service for an hour because I didn't understand my bill. I'm absolutely positive I'm paying the same amount I was previously, I'm absolutely sure that I have one less gig of data than I did previously and I'm absolutely sure that the sales person left out the details that would have told me this when I switched plans. The only compromise that happened here is I lost a gig of data because I believed what I heard at the store. It was a total misrepresentation presented in a way that's hard to pass up.
I'm done with Verizon regardless, I'm just spreading the word in the hopes that it helps others avoid this situation. I guess the one good thing is that it's not an extended contract so I can switch to another provider sooner than later.

Watch out for Wondershare

Watch out for Wondershare DVD for iPhone converter. Doesn't work and their support is really bad. Insulting and not helpful. Try everything else before you try them.

I was on the phone with customer service for an hour because I didn't understand my bill. I'm absolutely positive I'm paying the same amount I was previously, I'm absolutely sure that I have one less gig of data than I did previously and I'm absolutely sure that the sales person left out the details that would have told me this when I switched plans. The only compromise that happened here is I lost a gig of data because I believed what I heard at the store. It was a total misrepresentation presented in a way that's hard to pass up.
I'm done with Verizon regardless, I'm just spreading the word in the hopes that it helps others avoid this situation. I guess the one good thing is that it's not an extended contract so I can switch to another provider sooner than later.

What do I need to watch out for when installing Mountain Lion from scratch?

I feel like it's a good moment to erase everything from my computer and reinstall Mountain Lion. I'd like to know which things I should watch out for.
Most of my important stuff is located on an external hard drive. Some of the applications are located there as well, the other ones I can simply re-downloading, I don't mind this.
I have my whole iTunes library and my iPhoto library which obviously I'd like to keep. I'm also concerned about my text messages on my iPhone -- they're very important to me. And so are also my Notes, Reminders, and Contacts.
The thing is, I do not want to do a fresh install and then reload a backup. What would be the sense of making this? None I guess... I'm doing a fresh install becuase I believe there's lots of useless files and maybe even dangerous files on my Mac that I'd like to get rid of. I guess that if I would load the backup, they would all be here again...
Is it maybe possible to load only certain things from Time Machine, for example my iPhoto or iTunes library?
Maybe someone can help me here, totally new with this...

Alright, I'm slowly getting ready to do this. Apparently I do not need an install DVD but I can just press CMD+R to get to the option to do a fresh install, that's why my Mac didn't come with an install DVD (that's what I've read and what I've been told at least).
Now I'm wondering... do I need to copy those items from the User folder at all? I mean, I have a complete backup on an external hard drive. I could just go there in the folders and select what I would like to copy to my Mac again, suchs as my music library or photo library. Is there any risks? I'm worried about even the smallest things, like creation dates changing and stuff like this. They mean something to me

Major Problem with Multiple External Hard Drives! Watch Out!

I've almost completely given up on Aperture and gone back to Iphoto due to a major glitch in Aperture that actually cost me loss of some wedding photos (approximately 20)! Watch out for this, it is damaging.
I have 3 external hard drives, and of course when you mount disk images and cards you gain them in finder on the left hand panel. It seems the order of the mount is crucial to Aperture locating things and consequently if the mount order changes Aperture can no longer locate the files, and worse if you import to hard drive it doesn't import to anywhere!
The situation I have is that the other day I was importing wedding images and was up to the last card (fortunately we had 2 photographers so the loss isn't as detremental) and the power went off. Happens a lot where we are.
So upon power comeing back on the external hard drives remounting, I have figured out they mounted in a different order to what they were previously.
So upon going back to Aperture I went back to importing to the same external hard drive location. It had no warning of a problem and seemed to import without a problem. However once it had finished, on clicking on the thumbnails the images wouldn't load. I imported again and the same problem happened, however I didn't realise and had deleted the files. When I realised I tried to locate the files using spotlight. They are no where to be found!
Also because of the re-order of my hard drives aperture can't locate previously imported (referenced) files. I can find these ones on the hard drive, so I haven't lost them, but it will take unmounting and mounting several times in different orders to try and get them back because I do not remember which way they were mounted!
This is terrible! Aperture is a mess. This sort of thing shouldn't happen. Besides it's still too slow and it has slowed my production time substantially. The only thing it has over Iphoto is it doesn't degrade the JPEG each adjustment. However in Iphoto this is negligable, it can't be noticed, and I am not going to sacrifice time, lost photos for a minute level of extra quality.
Aperture get your act together. I wasted my money back when I purchased the full price 1.0 version.
Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Hardly high and not mighty.
But, to your points.
It sounds like you do have a UPS, not a surge protector, though it probably provides this in addition.
The fact that your external drives dropped during import is the same as removing a drive without unmountingf it, yes? Who knows what state the inode/allocation tables look like and no surprise that any clusters part updated were dropped. They'll rebuild from the cast complete mirror, but in-flight changes would not necessarily have been written to both sets of tables.
I cannot understand why (for you) Aperture appears to need the drives mounting in the same order. Disk Utility may show something, but I suspect you tried this.
However, and this I do challenge, the fact that you blamed Aperture and stated categorically it behaves a certain way when it does so only under some odd or errored hardware condition is not the thoughful optinion of an experienced Mac user. I wish you no offence but despite what you observed and your experience, I do wish to correct your sweeping statement.
The other comment I would challenge is that "I'm writing for people to watch out for and to trial ..." I would agree with that statement if that was any part of the context of the original post. No, your original post was far more negative and accusatory.
Your other new comments are clearly based on issues causing you angst. I have felt most of them, but at the end, it is software. Perfect? No, but I haven't had a crash since 1.5.1. Far from perfect? Yes, and many features missing that may be added in v2, v3, v.... . Best for my purposes despite its faults? Yes, by far. It is the fastest and most productive way for me to get to end-of-job.
Now my question for you since: what in your view is a superior alternative? Many on this forum are professional/serious amateur photographers who want some software company to succeed. Perhaps the reason we contribute to the Aperture forum is because we've found it the best horse to ride and therefore want to see it improve.
G.

What gotchas should we watch out for when porting code from the Adobe SDK to the Acrobat SDK?

What gotchas should we watch out for when porting code from the Adobe SDK to the Acrobat SDK?
... and the other way around?
I have found some evidence that the preprocessor variable PLUGIN seems to prevent macros from includes from being defined. The NPROC and SPROC constructs seem to be involved (partners in crime, if you will).
-Ramon
ps: Please see my related thread "What is the difference between xxProcs.h and xxCalls.h?"

Here's a gotcha that I bumped into:
extern "C" HINSTANCE gHINSTANCE;
I found it in a successfully developed code on the Windows/Plugin side. It is something that I had never used on the APDFL side AND my Windows linker is complaining about several gXXXX missing functions.
IOW: It sounds like the above statement is the solution to my linking problems. Somehow the APDFL seems to take care of the C vs. C++ details.
-Ramon

Two Q's: HD noise, and need to watch out for anything after minor "fall"?

Apologies in advance; I'm guessing that I'm concerned about nothing in both cases here, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask (besides making me look paranoid :D).
1) You know that "grinding/clicking" noise HDs typically make when working? (I mean the one normally associated with HDs, not any of the "click of death" stuff.) Occasionally, I hear a single grind/click that's louder and/or sharper than the usual. Anyone else hear that? I'm assuming it's normal, but just asking.
2) I put my laptop down on a wad of sheets atop a futon of mine while I did something else. Unlike usual, the laptop slid off the sheets onto the surface of the futon. The momentum caused it to further slide off the edge of the futon onto the carpeted floor (about 10.5 inches off the floor; it's a thick futon) with a very audible "thunk." It landed with one edge still propped on the edge of the futon, and I believe, tho' I'm not 100% sure, it landed hinge-side first.
Any chance anything got jarred out of whack or anything like that? Anything I should watch out for as I use it (as I'm doing now; seems fine so far)?
Thanks.

LeaperBP wrote:
Perhaps, then, "grinding" wasn't the best word, because it definitely wasn't any sound that I haven't heard from a perfectly functioning HD before - just a little louder. "Whirring"? Hmm.
This still concerns me. The HD should not make any noise other then a very light tick or click caused by the r/w head seeking a track or another slightly louder click or even clunk when the heads park. The parking is a one time thing, repeated as often as once every half minute or so under some undesirable circumstances, not a continuous chatter of any kind. Normally it should only sound when you power down or when you move the computer.
One other normal sound is a "white noise" sound caused by the rushing of air as the platters spin. They spin at a constant speed but the whooooosh sound made can vary slightly due to the fact the r/w head may be near the center of the platters or near the outer edge, each place making a slightly different noise. The whooosh sound maybe should be described as a continuous shhh. It is always present when the drive spins if it is audible at all on any given drive. On slower drives, 5400 RPM, it can be virtually silent.
A hard drive can have a vibration that can be felt in the hand, and can also be heard as a hum. It will also be constant whenever the drive is spinning. It does not come an go. It is by far more common in 7200 RPM or faster drives.
• light clicking = head seek
• louder single click/clunk = head park
• shhh = air turbulence caused by spinning platters
• continuous hum = vibration caused by spinning platters

It seems that my iphone 4 8gb verizon burnt out when i plugged it in my car charger and the screen went completely black and my iphone was hot when it happened any help how to fix it?

It seems that my iphone 4 8gb verizon burnt out when i plugged it in my car charger and the screen went completely black and my iphone was hot when it happened any help how to fix it?

kriss1692 wrote:
I cant use my phone
So use a different phone...
and i dont remember my serial number on it
-> iOS: How to find the serial number, IMEI, MEID, CDN, and ICCID number

What to watch out for on craig'slist

Found a 32g wi fi for $230 on craig'slist. When something is to good to be true it usually is. Is there something I should watch out for.
Thanks

What to look out for is "the ad is on CL". :>
I have done a couple deals thru CL. A few seemed like scams, a couple I know were and the ones
that did go mostly well, the people said they would pay what I was asking then when we met, all tried
to get me to go lower. I guess they think that when your there and they are waving $, you will sell
instead of leaving and trying again.

Something to watch out for...

hi, i was getting pretty desperate with my pc the other day, so i bought a gigabyte mobo, to try my cpu out on..
all started ok, untill installing graphic's drivers and such when i started to get the all familiar 0x0000007f errors..
so i looked at my cpu a bit more carefully, and guess what...
on 3 of the pins was a thin layer of heatsink paste..
so, with the help of a cheap toothbrush i cleaned the pins and put my old 875pNeo back to work..
yep.. i feel really dumb.
but got to thinking, how many others may well have greasy finger prints or heatsink goop on their pins??
hope it helps..

The CPU pins are really something to watch out for as if something goes wrong there, it'll goes wrong everywhere !!!
My friend's client try to fix up a P4 3.0GHz HT system himself so he don't need to pay for installation charges and the next day, he brought it back to the shop complaining that he was given a bad CPU, my friend tested the system and found out that was completely no sign of life after hitting the power button. At wits ends, we decided to take everything out to check and we were shocked to near death ... guess what... the socket handle wasn't even pushed in completely to lock the CPU into the socket and he has placed the CPU chip wrong without following the golden arrow and it caused the one empty socket and one fully bent down golden pin, what's worse was the Z-Bracket for the heatsink was not fully fixed in!!! So that wasn't a complete force to push the heatsink down to fully contact with the CPU chip... I've no idea how he set the whole thing up in such a mess... .
This bad setup has burn down the CPU itself due to overheating, one burnt CPU socket (almost the whole mobo was burn down...), one burnt FX5600 VGA card, 2 burnt DDR400 RAMs, 2 burnt dimm slots, 2 burnt SATA 120GB Seagate HDDs, 1 burnt CWT 550watts PSU and 2 burnt black and half melted IDE cables .

2-3 things to watch out for when SAP is the source for a Data Warehouse

Hello
What are 2-3 things to watch out for when SAP is the source for a Data Warehouse (Informatica for ETL and Cognos for reporting)?
Thanks
G. Vijay

Going through some or all of this might help:
Empty Safari's cache (from the Safari menu), then close Safari.
Go to Home/Library/Safari and delete the following files:
form values
download.plist
Then go to Home/Library/Preferences and delete
com.apple.Safari.plist
Repair permissions (in Disk Utility).
Start up Safari again, and things should have improved.
If not, MacFixit have published a very detailed (very!) article on speeding up a slow Safari, here:
http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?story=20070416000657464
Many, including me, have also followed the advice given by others here to add DNS codes to their Network Settings, with good results in terms of speed-up:
Open System Preferences/Network. Double click on your connection type, or select it in the drop-down menu. Click on TCP/IP and in the box marked 'DNS Servers' enter the following two numbers:
208.67.222.220
208.67.220.222
Click on Apply Now and close the window.
Restart Safari, and repair permissions.

What is the recommended upgrade for OSX 10.6.8 and what should I watch out for with the upgrade?

I would like to know whether there is a recommended upgrade for OSX 10.6.8. Is it Mountain Lion? Is there anything I should watch out for in case I do the upgrade? My computer is not working optimally and now my external drive (My Passport, 1TB) is not recognized by my computer. Thanks!

You should try to get your computer working before you upgrade.
Check that your computer is compatible with Mountain Lion/Mavericks/Yosemite.
To check the model number hold down the option/alt key, go to the Apple menu and select System Information.
MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer) model number 3,1 or higher
Your Mac needs:
OS X v10.6.8 or OS X Lion already installed
2 GB or more of memory (More is better - 4 GB minimum seems to be the consensus)
8 GB or more of available space
Check to make sure your applications are compatible. PowerPC applications are no longer supported after 10.6.
Application Compatibility
Applications Compatibility (2)
Do a backup before installing.

Watch Out K7t266 Pro 2 Users! Misadvertised Amd's!

Anybody in the market for an AMD Athlon XP 1500+ for their k7t266 pro 2 watch out! I bought one from http://www.mwave.com and they had it advertised as having a palomino core, but after much testing and lost sleep over the mobo not booting (see my earlier post: "Help! k7t266 pro 2 won't boot") and purchasing an additional mobo of the same type and different brands of RAM, I finally discovered that the whole problem is that the processor actually is a throughbred core. I guess after doing a few mods suggested in this forum I could make it work, but I'm not going to chance it.
DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF AMD MAKES THE ATHLON XP 1500+ IN BOTH PALOMINO AND THOROUGHBRED CORES? I POSTED IN AMD'S FORUM AND MOST "EXPERTS" SAY ONLY PALOMINO BUT THE FOLLOWING LINK SAYS OTHERWISE SINCE MY PROCESSOR HAS "AXLD1500" ON IT
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/products/mainboard/mbd/pro_mbd_cpu_support_detail.php?UID=amdcpu
THANKS, AND WATCH OUT FOR MISADVERTISED PROCESSORS!

THE REPLY FROM AMD FORUM'S MODERATORS AT LINK:
http://forums.amd.com/index.php?showtopic=8318
(SCROLL ABOUT 3/4 DOWN THE PAGE)
APPARENTLY MWAVE IS SELLING MOBILE OR "LOW POWER" ATHLON XP'S AS SUPPOSEDLY "PALOMINO" CORED PROCESSORS. ANYWAY, IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE GETTING A K7T266 PRO 2 TO POST OR BOOT, DOUBLE CHECK YOUR NUMBERS ON YOUR PROCESSOR WITH THE MSI PROCESSOR GUIDE!

Verizon watch out KGB

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for