Want to buy ..
Hello,
I have been use a TOSHIBA AT270 for two years almost. Now, my charge does not work any more and i am try to buy another one but i did not find. so, could you tell me from where i can get it in Saudi Arabia ?
Thank you!
MAnar
This is the forum for Toshiba USA, and we don't operate in Saudi Arabia. You may want to contact Toshiba in your region.
- Peter
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I want to buy a new apple tv but it used hdmi cables and my house is only wired for analog. Is there any way I can use the apple tv on analog cables?
Welcome to the Apple Community.
It's do-able, but I don't think it's a great idea.
DVI
Some users with DVI have managed to get their TV's to work with DVI-HDMI cables. DVI carries no audio, so alternative connections need to be explored to enable audio. DVI doesn't necessarily support HDCP as well as other standards used by HDMI (which may or may not be an issue)
Analogue
There are hardware converters that will convert HDMI to various other types of output, however there are some issues with doing so that you should be aware of.
HDCP
HDCP compliant converters will not allow you to watch HDCP protected content such as that from the iTunes Store. Non compliant converters exist but we cannot discuss them under the Terms of Use for these communities.
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I'm not aware of any converters that will scale the output from the Apple TV, any TV or projector which is used will need to be widescreen and support resolutions of 720p (Apple TV 2), 720p/1080p (Apple TV 3)
DAC
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how can i save my individual playlist on itunes on my external hard drive because i want to buy a laptop and install itunes and move all my music and playlist thats on my desktop to my laptop and almost all of my music is from a bunch of cds i own
Hello ryane84
The easiest and most efficient way to copy your music is to follow the steps under the External drive section. Make sure that you have organized the iTunes library first before you copy it over. Then put the copied iTunes folder in the same Music folder on your computer.
iTunes: How to move your music to a new computer
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4527
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I Wanted to buy itunes gift card but instead I got apple store gift card accidentally how can I buy itunes gift card using my apple store gift card?
You can't from Apple, they don't let you buy iTunes gift cards with an Apple Store gift card. You could see if a different store in your country might let you (though they possibly won't), or try selling the card to somebody e.g. family, friend, eBay etc
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I bought a book on itunes, and can't open it. tried to send it to my iphone so i could read it there and it won't let me carry it over. I have updated Ibook on my iphone. What do I do? I do not want to buy the book again.
You won't be able to open it on your computer, ibooks can currently only be read in the iBooks app on an iPad, iPhone and iPod Touch. How were you trying to get it to your phone, syncing it by selecting it on the iPhone's Books tab when connected to your computer's iTunes, or by dragging-and-dropping it from the Books part of your iTunes library over and onto the iPhone 'device' ? Another option is to try re-downloading it directly in the iBooks app on your iPhone via the Purchased tab in the ibookstore in it (re-downloading).
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I updated my iPod and it erased everything i had on it. How do i retrieve the songs that i bought from the iTunes store? when i try to download/buy them again they tell me i have already purchased them do i want to buy them again? I have authorized my computer but none of them are in my music now.
You buy one and only one download.
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the numbers turn out grey next to my apple id and i wanted to buy i song but it said my account was going to be debited when i have $25 still on my iTunes acct from an iTunes gift card!
Contact Apple for assistance by going to https://expresslane.apple.com, then click iTunes>iTunes Store>Account Management>The topic is not listed.
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apple id was originally disabled. I reset my password and can sign into my apple id account. But when i want to buy an app in the app store it says my apple id is disabled again.
It's real easy to create a new one and, in fact, it's too easy. I say that because multiple IDs are a PIA. The problem is that anything obtained from the iTunes Store is PERMANENTLY associated with the ID that was used to obtain the item(s). iTunes items can not be transferred from one ID to another and IDs can not be merged.
The problem arises when you want to update an app. If you're doing it from iTunes on your computer, you must log out and back in to get to the correct ID. Then you update and log out/in again to get back to where you started. It's slightly easier if you update from the iPad/iPod device as there is no need to log out/in BUT you still need the correct password for the appropriate ID. Of course, with a disabled ID, the problem is much worse!
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I downloaded from the Apps.store a game named,"Ninja Run". When I was plkaying the game, I got out and a message appeared, asking me whether I would like to buy 5 revivals for Rs.170/-. When I hit the,"Buy"button, I was asked to confirm my Credit card details. I confirmed it and was asked to enter the Security Code. When I did so,, a message appeared telling me that the Security Code was invalid and the purchase could not be completed. When I continued the game and got out again, the message appeared again asking me whether I wanted to buy. Thinking that my purchase was not completed, I again hit the,"Buy" button. Nothing happened. I continued the game and when I got out, I received the same message and obliged accordingly. This went on for three or more times. By this time,however I got confused and quit the game. All these things happened on 6th September 2013. The next day,I was shocked to see 5 receipts from the Apple Apps.store in the In Box of my email account,each for Rs.170/-
totalling Rs850/. Worse still, when I played the game the next day and got out and asked for a revival, would you believe it, I was again asked whether I would like to buy 5 revivals for Rs.170/-.
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Purchase and Redeem an iTunes Gift Card.
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Either use the Apple ID you used when you originally purchased the applications or you will have to purchase them using your Apple ID. If you did not have the other Apple ID, then you have the applications illegally or they were improperly included with a computer you purchased from someone else.
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BEFORE JUST REJECTING MY QUERY, AS A POTENTIALLY NEW CUSTOMER I WOULD APPRECIATE SOME FORM OF AN ANSWER!!
I want to buy an iPad (my first one), but would rather wait a couple of months to get the latest one if they are planning on a release of a newer version later this year. I certainly cannot afford to buy one now and then update when a newer model comes out, especially if it's released only a couple of months from now.The latest one came out just 4 months ago. Doubt one is coming out soon.
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Hi
I have a Macbook air & iPhone 4.
what do I need to do if I want to buy a book (ebook) or an application that is not available in the iTunes store in my area i.e. Africa (Egypt)?
Do I need to open a different account in the iTunes store in the other area i.e. USA ?
Please advice
Thank youYou can only buy content from your own country's store i.e. the Egyptian store if you are in Egypt - you need to be in a country to use its store, so to use the US store you will need to be in the US and have a US billing address on your account. If there is an app or any other item that you would like to be buy that isn't currently available in the Egyptian store then you can try requesting that it be added, but unless the app's developer or rights-holder agrees to it then Apple won't be able to sell it there : http://www.apple.com/feedback/itunes.html
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Want to buy a home by the end of the year - do I have a chance?
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)?Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate?Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term?Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)?Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property?It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs?Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores:
What are your fico MORTGAGE credit scores for each mortgage applicant?I don't really want to pay to get mortgage scores now because I'm not ready to get prequalified... still paying down credit cards, so to me it's useless to get the score until my credit situation is stable. Here are free scores from credit cards and whatnot:
Myself:Discover 6/21: 773Citi 5/26: 744Capital One 6/18: 746Mint.com 4/7: 686 (score to be updated July 7th) My Wife:Discover 6/14: 749 Based on these, and the general deviation between them and mortgage scores (<50 points?) I think I would be able to qualify for a conventional loan, skipping FHA (ugh... mortgage insurance for life?). Some low-downpayment loan programs like Fannie Mae's MyCommunityMortgage (MCM) require higher scores (especially for DU), and I do think I would have the required 680-or-so, but as I mention elsewhere in this post, I haven't found an NJ MCM lender (other than brokers). But ideally, a 3% downpayment (like MCM) and reduced (compared to FHA and conventional) MI (again, like MCM) would be ideal... Obviously, there's no guarantee that these are anywhere close to the mortgage scores, so once I feel like I've paid down my cards as far as I need to (i.e. I feel I'm ready to get pre-qualified), I'll make sure to buy the mortgage scores. I'm thinking that point will be in about a month, but that depends on your answer(s) to question 8 :\ 2. Credit Negatives: None except for a late payment more than 24 months ago on a student loan that was in "interest-only deferment." I believe that's on TransUnion, which is what Capital One pulls. 3. Gross Income./4. Source of income. Myself: $65,000 (+ bonus that some years is as low as $500, so won't include it)My wife: $13,000 (±$2,000) All income is from employment (hers is part-time, and with two retail jobs, very likely to vary; mine is a salaried position). I may get an added part-time just to boost my savings, but it wouldn't be reported to them (I'm thinking a 3-6 month deal). 5. Monthly debt payments. Here are all my cards and loans, including month opened, APR, balance, limit, and payment. All balances as of today: Currently in my name w/wife as authorized user:Elan Financial CC, opened 6/2013, 20% APR:$-10 ($10,600 CL); payment $0Discover It CC, opened 5/2013, 15% APR:$2,900 ($5,000 CL); payment $59 **current APR 0% since entire balance was transferred from Elan at one point with a 0% offer that expires in AugustCapital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25Citi ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25BankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 My credit limits all went up within the last 6 months. Before then, they were $6,600 for Elan, $4,000 for Discover, $1,000 for Capital, $2,000 for Citi, and $800 for Bank of America. BofA was the only one that didn't automatically raise my limit or tell me I should request an increase, and when I requested it, they were the only ones that hit me with a HP. The Kay card below has also had a constantly-rising credit limit, from an original of $500, to $2500 a year ago, to the current $4000. Just in my name:Kay Jewelers CC, opened 4/2012, ridiculous (25%?) APR:$0 ($4,000 CL) - payment $0Macy's CC, opened 5/2014, 25% APR:$0 ($600 CL as of March) - payment $0M&T Auto Loan, since 9/2013, 5.3% APR:$10,310 ($14,218 original) - payment $231 (72 months total)HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period) Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 So basically, I have a crapload of debt and quite a few recent inquiries. However, my credit score shot up when:The 5/2013 accounts aged to 2 years (and thus the inquiries were removed);I paid down cards and increased limits; usage went from ~$13k of ~$19k revolving limit used to about ~$6.5k (at one point) of about ~$25k (at one point) revolving limit used; now it's at about $5k used of $29k;I was added as an authorized user on my wife's card (at card opening).I think those point to a nice boost to the credit score when (1) I pay down the cards even more [to end of July], and (2) the three inquiries from BofA, Citi, and M&T disappear [2 in Aug, 1 in Sep]. Sounds like my pre-approval should be early October, making my intended closing date near-impossible . Maybe I can still qualify with a good rate despite the inquiries?
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Myself:Went from $16k/year to $26k/year part-time while in school, now $65k/year (as of last month) and salaried, all at the same company for 4 years now, and the boost was due to graduating; surely they can throw out the 2-year requirement? I plan on staying here for many years, and am about 99.9% certain there will be no reason for that income to drop in the forseeable future. Wife:Nothing's sure, and it's very low pay. As noted above, $13k/year at the moment, but she's unhappy with both (retail... ugh) jobs, so that's not guaranteed. She's looking for a break and a decent office job, but even if she gets it, I'm pretty sure the short length of time that she'd have it before getting a loan would make the difference in income useless. I'll add here our budget: In our current situation, with about $5000/month net income ($1k from her, $4k from me), we can comfortably save $2000/month. July and October are 5-week months, so that goes up to $3000 those months. However, I'm using the $3000 surplus from this month to pay down cards. So that's $7k added to savings thru October or $9k thru November. Hypothetically, I could "skip" paying off cards (or pay down all but Discover) in order to boost up savings.
7. Assets/Reserves. This is to determine how much you could potentially have as a down payment and also as reserves to help qualify (for example if your debt to income ratio is high this could help qualify you anyway). Savings: $5000Checking: Everything that goes in, goes to paying credit cards or into savings. I haven't made a purchase transaction with a debit card in over a year because I get points on all my cards. So call it $0 available for moving to savings.
8. Location: This is to determine govt guaranteed loan limits, what special programs might be available for you, how much property taxes & homeowners insurance will likely be, amongst other items. Central New Jersey (Somerset, Middlesex, possibly Hunterdon counties). I don't know where I can find a "conforming" 3-3.5% down loan here that's not FHA, since no local banks seem to advertise something like it. I've been looking at MyCommunityMortgage and they seem awesome - 3-5% down with mortgage insurance that is typical for 10-15%-down conventional loans - but when I do search for "Fannie Mae + your home state" as recommended, all I get is HomeFirst and general info on MyCommunityMortgage (since the income/value limits are higher for NJ, that info gets included in all their documentation on the program).
9. Property Description: Single-family, "single home" (no townhouse/condo). No foreclosures, short sales, or other "as-is" situations.
10. Property Value. $200,000-$250,000
11. Occupancy. Currently? Rent $550/mo. As far as every credit application I've filled out is concerned, it's my responsibility. However, since the contract IS in both our names, I could hypothetically call it $275/mo (even split) or $440/mo (split based on relative income). Not sure what that would help/hurt with; I've heard of sticker shock being a concern for some, but if all goes according to plan ($2000/mo into savings, basically the amount the mortgage+tax+insurance would be), I don't see that being an issue. 12. Transaction Type. Purchase - primary residence. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advanceGeorgie_Boy wrote:
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)? You want to get as many of your ccs to zero as you can ...optimum scoring is one account carrying a balance of 3-9% of your CL, all others at zero ...the mortgage lenders will count each account with a balance as a monthly debt due equal to your minimum payment when calculating your dtirs ...those minimum payments quickly add up and can seriously impact how much you can get approved for.Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Ignore the personal loan offers. You have a decent credit mix now between your ccs and auto installment loan. A personal loan would only hurt your scores at this point.Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate? Not personally familiar with these but it looks like a SL from the other info you've provided. Generically you should refinance when the total cost of doing so is beneficial to you. That said, a mortgage lender is going to look at total student debt, and use the greater of your current payment or 1% of the total ...thus refinancing for mortgage purposes may not result in any dtir benefit to you. Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term? If this is a new car loan, yes ...if its a used car loan, it depends on age and value because your current rate isn't outrageous for an older car loan ...generically, if you can refinance to a lower monthly payment at a reasonable cost, you should do so in order to lower your dtir ...but its a trade-off because the HP will probably cost you a few points on your scores.Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)? All of the govt guaranteed loan programs have recently moved to using the higher of your current payment or 1% of the total in your dtir calculations ...do the math and act accordingly. Be wary of any lender that is not using the higher figure when giving you preapproval numbers, uw will inevitably catch it and it could torpedo your loan after you've signed a contract and spent on prepaids and fees.Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property? She is either on the loan or not ...you can't have it both ways. At the time you apply, your LO will look at both of your incomes and tell you what will work best in your situation. As long as her income can be documented via tax returns, it should be "useable"It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs? This is very specific to the loan program ...conventional with 5% dp limits seller concessions to 3%, FHA is 6% regardless, USDA is technically unlimited ...be aware that every lender will have their own overlays which may affect those numbers. It is also affected greatly by your market conditions which at the moment vary greatly by your locale ...in a buyers market, you can expect seller concessions ...in a sellers market, probably not. USDA offers the best govt guarantee program for closing costs since they will allow you to include closing costs in the loan up to the appraised value. New Jersey's web site is screwed up (at least for me) and I can't nail down exactly what dp/closing cost assistance programs are available to you but it looks very dependent on the specific location you are buying in.Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? DO NOT get "pre-qualified" ...get "pre-approved" ...a pre-qual is virtually meaningless ...a pre-approval means they've actually looked at your documentation and, short of verification, are reasonably sure they can get you to closing ...its a huge difference ...as far as when? ...yesterday would have been great ...rates are rising ...its almost certainly going to get worse ...so bite the bullet ...find a decent realtor in your target area, ask them to recommend lenders they have worked with that can actually close their loans ...talk to those lenders ...get a pre-app ...go shopping ...if your credit scores/dtir improve significantly because of cc paydowns, ask your lender to rescore you ...mortgage pulls within 30-60 days all count as one HP. Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores: Its essential to your question of "when" that you know your actual mortgage scores ...the Discover scores are actual Fico cc scores, the others are FAKOs afaik ...but the Fico cc and mortgage scoring models differ in several important ways and vary easily by +/- 50 points depending on what is in your CRA files ...mine actually track fairly closely but others have seen very negative differences ...its worth the $40 imnsho to know where you actually stand ...anything you do to improve them in the next month will only help but is not sufficient reason to delay ...again imnsho. 2. Credit Negatives: Have you tried to have the late removed from the CR? Depending on the SL source, some programs have been very responsive to GW requests after a good payment record has been reestablished ...ymmv but you lose nothing by trying. 5. Monthly debt payments. Get the Discover to under $500 if possible ...and ask for a CLI asap ...Discover has been handing them out like candy lately ...keep a balance open 3-9% if possible but if not, as low as you can ...its more important to zero the other ccs first.Capital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroCiti ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroBankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zero HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period)Its almost certain that the last two will be seen as a combined 69k SL with $690 used in your dtir calculation Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 ...pay this to zero Credit score almost certainly isn't your major problem ...debt-to-income is Total income = 78k =6500 moTotal mo debt = 134cc/231auto/690SL= 1055 + ~1600 mo PITI+MI (220k@5%/5%dp) NJ taxes are higher than national avgs = 2655 total monthly paymentsThats a be ratio of 41% ...ideal is <36% but many programs will go higher
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Do not count on reason and logic being used in the mortgage process ...this will come down to finding a lender who will work with you ...if the 4 yrs is same company and the line of work matches your degree, it may not be a problem ...but its one reason you want to get the pre-approval process going now ...to find a lender who knows your exact situation, has reviewed the documentation, and given you a pre-approval knowing all the facts ...av pre-qual will look at your score, ask you for your current income, and promise you pie-in-the-sky until the rubber meets the road and his uw upchucks over your employment history ...goodbye loan and all the money you paid ...get a real pre-approval 8. Location: Hunterdon county has a lot of areas eligible for the USDA program and your income is well within the limits ...if the commute is acceptable, its a good program. Somerset/Middlesex are mostly ineligible. The NJ website for dp assistance programs isn't working for me but take the effort to ask your prospective lenders about these programs and their experience with them. Any that pooh pooh them should be scratched off your list. 11. Occupancy. Sticker shock WILL be an UW issue but you appear to have it addressed. Current rent will not factor in to dtir for your mortgage. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance ...I could only wish that everyone would supply as much info as you have ...please feel free to ask if you dont understand ofr if I misunderstood something ...hth -
I want to buy a hard case for my macbook pro, but I don't know what year it is. When I use the serial number to try and find out, all it says is, "~VIN,MacBook Pro (15-inch Glossy)". When I type that into amazon for a case it gives me nothing!
Hi T,
Either of these will give you the info you seek:
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Can anyone help me I have a gmail.com email, and on my I mac I now have thousands of emails on all mail, please can anyone help me get rid of them, Ihave tried select all and delete then erase deleted messages, they go then when new emails arrive they show up again, I now want to buy an iPad and am afraid when I set it up they will show up on that, I am not particulary computer literate so please easy to understand answers. heres hoping thank you
Copy everything from the old computer or your backup copy of your old computer to your new one.
Type "move itunes library from pc to mac" or similar into the google search bar.
Maybe you are looking for
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Hi, We have recently installed HFM and was trying to create database connection from database connection manager in HFM workspace. I am getting below error: "Error connecting to database connection : no HssJNIDriver950 in java.library.path" initially
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Previous versions of FF cycle through pages in the order of most recent first as in WinXP when ALT+TAB are pressed but now it seems that the oldest is opened first. I have toggled the item suggested in ABOUT:CONFIG but this has no effect. there have
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Why is my Accounts screen blank in System Prefs?
The Accounts pane of my System Preferences is completely blank. There are no admin or user accounts listed at all. There's just nothing there. I don't know how this happened and I need help getting it back to "normal", i.e. being able to see my admin
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Smartform - Loop issue not printing correctly
Hi, In smartforms -Main Window - I created like this 1.Loop Statement - This will loop - ITAB1 TEXT statement - ITAB1-ADRNR - (prints the address) within the loop ITEM_DATA (item data) table. - This will Loop ITAB2 - where ADRNR = ITAB1-ADRNR Th
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ITunes digital skips and premature shuffle
I'm a new user. I have a few dozen favorite instrumentals in a playlist, some purchased and some converted from my CD-ROMs. While listening I frequently hear the computer skip over some brief segments of the music. Sometimes songs are ended before th