What cameras would be good for 1920X 1080?

trying to format video using my sony hd camcorder using 1920x1080 and uploading to imovie?

iMove should be importing whatever resolution your camera is shooting.
It's not really a decision you have to make when importing.
Your camera should be labeled with it's model name.
Matt

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What download speed is good for streaming HD movies?

What download speed is good for streaming HD movies down to my Apple TV?

kenjpark
The recommended speeds are
SD 2.5 Mbps
720p 6 Mbps
1080p 8 Mbps
Jules

WHAT MS OFFICE IS GOOD FOR IPAD 2

What MS OFFICE is good for ipad 2

There is no iPad version of MS Office. You can use Apple's iDevice versions of Numbers, Pages, and Keynote which can read and export Office compatible documents. There are quite a few other third-party apps that do much the same such as Documents To Go.

What is the difference between mouton lion, lion, snow leopard? I have an iPad, iPhone and iMac but I have no idea what you would use these for?

What is the difference between mouton lion, lion, snow leopard? I have an iPad, iPhone and iMac but I have no idea what you would use these for?

Probably. Back up your data and check your applications for compatibility before installing it.
(111162)

What is Hashtable.clone() good for?

I want to make a copy of a Hashtable. I read the javadoc of Hashtable.clone() and it says:
"Creates a shallow copy of this hashtable. All the structure of the hashtable itself is copied, but the keys and values are not cloned. This is a relatively expensive operation. "
What does this mean? I want my copy to be de-coupled from the original, i.e. when i change anything in my copy, the original should be untouched. But the sentence "the keys and values are not cloned" seems to result in a coupled copy. So I have to copy all keys/values into a new Hashtable object myself. Leading to the question: what is Hashtable.clone() good for?

I prefer this to ad hoc speed testing classes.
import java.util.*;
public class SpeedTester{
    public static final long OUTER_ITERATIONS = 100;
    public static final long INNER_ITERATIONS = 10;
    public static void main(String[] args)    {
        Data[] data = {new StringData()};
        Test[] tests = {new TreeMapTest(), new HashMapTest()};
        long[] times = new long[tests.length];
        for (int j = 0; j < OUTER_ITERATIONS; j++)
            for (int k = 0; k < data.length; k++)
                data[k].create();
            for (int k = 0; k < tests.length; k++)
                System.gc();
                times[k] += test(tests[k]);
        for (int j = 0; j < tests.length; j++)
            System.out.println(tests[j].getClass().getName() + ": " + times[j] + " - "
                + ((double) times[j]) / (OUTER_ITERATIONS * INNER_ITERATIONS)
                + " millis per test");
    public static long test(Test test)
        long start = System.currentTimeMillis();
        for (int j = 0; j < INNER_ITERATIONS; j++) test.test();
        return System.currentTimeMillis() - start;
interface Data{
    public void create();
interface Test{
    public void test();
class StringData implements Data
    static Random random = new Random();
    static String[] words;
    public static String test;
    public void create()
        words = new String[random.nextInt(4990) + 10];
        for(int i=0; i < words.length; ++i) words[i] = nextWord();
    public String nextWord()
        char[] chars = new char[random.nextInt(16)];
        for (int i=0; i<chars.length; ++i)
            chars[i] = (char) random.nextInt(0x10000);
        return new String(chars);
class TreeMapTest implements Test
    public void test()
        Map m = new TreeMap(String.CASE_INSENSITIVE_ORDER);
        for(int i=0; i < StringData.words.length; ++i)
            m.put(StringData.words,null);
class HashMapTest implements Test
public void test()
Map m = new HashMap();
for(int i=0; i < StringData.words.length; ++i)
m.put(StringData.words[i].toUpperCase(),null);

Whats the check box good for?

Greetings!
I'm on a Monday roll. I got bit by a context menu so far so now lets try the check box.
I've always been under the impression that the check box was an include/exclude thing its either on or off.
Instance I was trying to burn a cd from a playlist and it went over. So I would un-check boxes for items in the list and try to re-burn the cd. Even after clearly it telling me I had less time and space itunes was still trying to burn the 'unchecked' items.
So .... what are the check boxes good for?? I'm sure I'm going to feel really dumb when the answer is presented.
Thanks for your time .. on a ridiculous question!
Dave

*I guess I haven't put enough thought into creating a playlist to contain every song I would like to play at a given time.*
By checking/unchecking songs, you alreay are doing it, except instead of having them in a neat, tidy playlist or two, you have the whole library to go thru.
Here's how I do it.
It's very simple to get new music and my favorites onto the iPod, once set it up.
I have a few playlist I sync.
One is a regular playlist (iPod Music) with all the music I always want on my iPod.
I also create a smart playlist.
The criteria are.
Match all rules;
Playlist is not iPod music (this keeps from selecting songs I already have)
My rating is not 1 star (keeps off stuff I rate one star)
Have not heard in last two weeks (rotates older music)
Limit selection to 2GB by Random (the size is set to the iPod total size minus iPod music playlist size).
Then I select the iPod, click the Music tab.
Tick Sync music and choose Selected playlists in the drop down.
Tick the two playlists above.
I add/delete from the iPod Music playlist to always sync this music.
Once a week or so, depending on how much I have listened to the iPod, select the smart playlist.
Select all the songs and press Delete. Since it's a smart playlist, it will automatically fill up again with new music based on the criteria.
Then I sync the iPod.
(I really gotta start a blog with this info in it since I type it a bunch...)

What script would I use for a timesheet using 12:00 am?

I have been able to add a document level script using Acrobat Pro to show midnight as 12:00 am. But my calculations still don't work. As I have it scripted right now a start time of 12:00 am and an end time of 1:00 am equals -11.00 hours not 1.00 hour. What script would I have to add so the calculation is correct?
Here is the script I have right now:
// start time
// Start time field name
var cStartName = "start1mon1";
// Start time format:
var cStartFormat = "HH:MM";
// end time
// end time field name
var cEndName = "end1mon1";
// End time format:
var cEndFormat = "HH:MM";
// some conversion functions
// function to convert time string to minutes
function Time2Num(cTime, cFormat) {
// convert time string to minutes
// convert time string to date object
var oDate = util.scand("mm/dd/yyyy " + cFormat, "01/01/1970 " + cTime);
// convert date object to number of milliseconds
var nTime = oDate.getTime();
// convert milliseconds to minutes and return value
return Math.round(nTime / (1000 * 60));
} // end Time2Num function
function Num2Time(nMinutes) {
// convert time string to Hours and Minute
// hours in nMinues
var nHrs = Math.floor(nMinutes / 60);
// remainder minutes from hours in nMinutes
var nMins = nMinutes / 60;
// return formatted time string
return nHrs, nMins;
} // end Num2Time
// end conversion functions
// perform the calculation using the fields:
// get the values of the fields
var cStartTime = this.getField(cStartName).value;
var cEndTime = this.getField(cEndName).value;
// clear the value
event.value = "";
// test for not null time strings
if(cStartTime != "" && cEndTime != "") {
// compute the time difference in minutes
nDiff = Time2Num(cEndTime, cEndFormat) - Time2Num(cStartTime, cStartFormat);
event.value = Num2Time(nDiff);
} //end not null values
I have no prior knowledge of JavaScript, only what I have found here on the forums and a lot of luck. I would appreciate help on this problem. Thanks!

Thank you Gilad D, that worked making a hidden field and just creating the subtraction for the break with that field! But for future reference if anyone else comes across this question, this is what I used for the time without subtracting the break.
// Get first field value
var v1 = getField("Finish Time 1").value;
//Split field value
var time1 = v1.split(":");
// Get second field value
var v2 = getField("Start Time 1").value;
//Split field value
var time2 = v2.split(":");
var min1 = time1[0]*60 + time1[1]*1 //
var min2 = time2[0]*60 + time2[1]*1 ;
event.value = ((min1 - min2) / 60) ;
If anyone know how to add a break into this script, have at it! But creating a hidden field with the answer of the above script and then creating another box that takes that number minus a break worked good.

Direct Access Management Servers, what are the entry good for?

In the advanced Direct Access setup wizard you have the ability to enter your management servers. I haven't been able to find an explanation of why, what is it good for? If I understand everything correct DA gives full access to the subnet so why is it of
interest to list some servers as "management servers"?

Hi,
Management servers are servers that you are able to access from the da client Before logged on as a user.
Your domain controllers are by default infrastructure servers, but in many cases you want to add for example SCCM, NAP and other servers to be accessable prior logon.
If you are using the manage-out functionality in DirectAccess, and want to access a client prior anyone is logged on, the management server is also needed there.
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/jj574200.aspx
Microsoft Certified Trainer
MCSE: Desktop, Server, Private Cloud, Messaging
Blog: http://365lab.net

Can anyone suggest which NI-Smart cam would be better for my application???

We are planning to automise the vision inspection System. Our need is to check OD(15mm),ID(8mm),Height(3.5mm), Potting(Presence of cracks,bubbles,etc),Pin placement, Height of pitch. Which NI-Smartcam would be better for implementing this application.

Hi swathirangaraj,
why don't you call your local NI sales support when you want to know about NI cams?

Which mac pro would be good for a recording studio

Hi, i am trying to gift a friend a mac pro.i am really clueless about which of the mac pro's would be best for a recording studio.

Apple Special Mac Pro
$2100 2.8GHz
The cpu can be upgraded to 6-core W3680
3 x 8GB RAM
SSD system
Mac Pro does not really benefit much from RAID of SSDs - lack of bandwidth
That is a good solid system - and one processor is even more efficient.

What software would you recommend for an HP Z230 Workstation?

I just purchased a new Hewlett Packard Z230 Workstation with the intent to catch up on a big backlog (hundreds of hours) of family videos I want to clean up and edit. This computer is configured as follows:
Intel I7 4770 Quad Core running 3.4 GHz (showing 8 processors in control panel/system/processor)
16 GB ram
256 GB solid state C: drive
3 TB 7,200 rpm D: Drive
nVidia Quadro K2000 video card with 2 GB video ram
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
When I bought this, I planned on using Cyberlink PowerDirector because they advertised it to run well with the features on this computer. I downloaded a trial version of Power Director, and it met my functional needs. But it locked up three times in an hour. When I wrote Cyberlink, they asked for information like the DxDiag.txt file that describes my computer, and the Windows Event logs of the lockups. Their response was BAFFLING, because they said they design their software for "consumer level platforms," and since they don't test their software on "workstations," they cannot recommend my using it on the Z230.
That said, I'm now looking for alternate software. I've used Pinnacle a lot in the past, but it has changed so much from the version I used, I'm not wed to any brand at this point. In addition to usual editing capability, I want to verify that the software I buy has some specific capabilities I need:
-- Ability to crop video clips and expand the remaining cropped scene back to 16:9 (because I have some incroachment in some video clips from the lens hood of a camera).
-- Ability to normalize audio levels for different clips (some too loud or too quiet) before producing the video.
-- Desired, not required: Ability to burn BluRay or DVD on a separate computer than the one where I am editing.
Most, if not all, editing software has these abilities now (PowerDirector and Pinnacle do), so this shouldn't be a problem, but I just want to check.
Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Terry Quinn

Jim,
Thanks for the recommendations.
You'll get a kick out of this. I started with a Betamovie in 1984, switched to Hi8 in 1993, and D8 in 2005. My initial editing was from one beta VCR to another one. Then I bought a good Sony TR101 Hi8 camcorder, and soon bought a $1,300 EV-S3000 Sony Hi8 VCR that connected to the TR101 by wire, which gave some syncronization of the linear edits (about plus or minus 3 frames when it was happy). In 2004 I bought a powerful (for then) computer and Pinacle Studio 9, which with some upgrades is still what I've edited with until now. Some of all three formats of video have been digitized (or downloaded from the D8) as .avi using various hardware. I expect to complete all of that as .avi.
I've just bought a new Panasonic HC-X920 camcorder (very nice) that produces files in .m2ts, which I think is AVCHD. As you can probably tell from my history, that may prove to be my last camcorder purchase and format change. I have no plans now to shoot 4k.
I checked, and I've overstated the number of hours of video I have left to do. I recorded just under 200 hours total in all three formats. 45 hours of that (the Beta) are fully edited, and about 22 hours of the Hi8 are finished. So I'm looking at about 130 hours of video I still need to edit, plus whatever I shoot in HD going forward.
I appreciate what you say about stability. I fought that with Pinacle 9, and frankly didn't change from that because I finally got it to run stably doing what I did for years. (However recently it has started behaving badly again, which is another reason I'm upgrading).
The Quardro came with the HP computer. The Quadro and GeForce both are spec'd on nVidia's website, and I assumed that since its specs were higher than the GeForce and "matched" Cyberlink's specs for OpenCL, I would be better with the Quadro than the GeForce. From what I'm hearing here and your recomendation, it sounds like I should sell the Quadro on Ebay and buy a GeForce. In case I still might end up with Cyberlink, I'll run the card model you suggested by them and see if they "bless" it.
I know the HP computer supports RAID, because I've seen that come up during boot-up. I always thought RAID was only about reliable backup. Are you suggesting that if I put a second 3 TB hard drive in my computer, and somehow tie it into RAID, that will improve performance, too?
Terry

Need A New Printer~Which Would Be Good For My Needs?

Just on Saturday I got my New iMac computer with of course OS X Mountain Lion to replace my old iMac that was still running on Tiger. Now I need to upgrade and get new items, particularly a printer. My old printer is a HP All-In-One Photosmart and was the type to directly hook up via a USB port cable...NOT wireless. There IS NO updated software to upgrade this printer, so that means I need to get a new printer. I don't have wireless Wi-Fi but connect to the internet via Ethernet cable and notice most of the "newer"printers are all wireless..are they any printers that can have the versatility to connect via wireless but more important USB cable? I need a printer that can print documents (from my computer), scan and print photos from my computer NOT a memory card as I do not have a digital camera...my photos are scans from a photo scanner to digitize. I've been reading what Apple store has to offer as far as printers and frankly confused which would be the best printer to buy for my needs.
Any suggestions??
PS NEED PRINTER THAT CAN HOOK UP VIA USB PORT NOT ETHERNET AS THAT IS ALREADY TAKEN BY MY HOOK UP VIA MY DSL ROUTER

Canon MG8220 has wireless, Ethernet and USB posts. Printer and scanner drivers are available via Apple Software Update.

What Macbook would be perfect for me? What would best suit my activity/needs?

I currently have a Toshiba L650 Satellite.
I'm an 18 year old female, and I want to buy my very first macbook.
As Macbooks are expensive, I want to get the perfect one for me.
I use my laptop for:
-Photoshop (I edit a lot of pictures/gifs/etc)
-Photo's (lots of photos I take on my camera I store on my computer, this also means I want an SD card slot)
-USB plug ins.
-Music (So I want to be able to put discs in my computer)
-Storing videos. (Average amount, not lots, just average amount of videos)
-Word documents I use often.
-Internet (I spend A LOT of time on the internet - facebook, youtube, social networking, browsing, etc. My laptops main use is the internet and photos)
-I watch some TV shows on it, like Vampire Diaries, etc sometimes.
-I'm not really a gamer. I do, however, play the sims 3 ocassionally and I'm thinking about buying Skyrim, but don't know about this one, maybe not.
-I webcam a lot too. Via Facebook generally. But sometimes Skype too.
& I think that's about it.
What would be the better Macbook for me?
I was looking at either the Macbook pro 13" or the Macbook air 13" - but don't know which one or if neither of these would suit me.
I like my computers to run fast and I like as much memory as possible. However, on my current laptop I've only used 83gb I think. It says total space is 583gb and there's 500gb remaining so I think that means I used 83gb?
On my new laptop, I want to store a bit more stuff than that though. So what is best for me?? What MAC is best for me??
I don't know a lot about computers so you may need to explain thoroughly for me to understand better.

Most of your list could be supported by either MacBook you listed. I think if you are a heavy user of Photoshop that you will find the MacBook Pro to be the better solution.
You version of Photoshop that you have on your Toshiba will not run on the Mac and will have to be replaced with the Mac version. Adobe may make you a deal on the Mac version. Call an ask their sales staff what they can do for you if you want to stay with PS.
Seeing as how you are planning on switching platform, you may want to check out two applications from Apple before you switch which are iPhoto and Aperture.
The first iPhoto will come with you Mac and is a way of storing photos and doing simple editing on them. It is very well integrated with the rest of the software on the Mac.
The other is Aperture. This is an extra cost item that is for the more serious user. It is capable of much more powerful edits on your photos.
Allan

What camera should I use for filming?

I didn't know where else to ask this question and since Canon is a popular camera provider for filmmakers, I thought I would try here. I'm a very amatuer filmer but I enjoy filming a lot as a hobby. Someday I would like to purchase a better camera because currently I have a Samsung compact camera that for what it is, takes excellent HD footage but I am limited with it. I mostly want a camera that can focus near and far and has hookups for a mic. It doesn't have to be high-end and I certaintly don't have a big budget. I was mostly just curious if you could get a decent filming camera under $300 that can focus (like blurring the background as it sees near and then far). I'm not expecting a super supreme camera, just an upgrade. When I went to Best Buy, the ones with the focus dial on the lense was running $800 and up. Thanks in advance!

"blurring the background" involves use of equipment and exposure settiings to create a shallow range at which subjects appear to be in acceptable focus... but outside of that range the image will not be focused. That "range" is referred to as the "depth of field" or just "DoF" for short. Creating shallow DoF requies a camera with a large sensor (due to the nature of physics, the smaller the imaging chip in the camera, the less this effect is possible. You need a camera with a large chip -- which is why DSLR cameras are very popular. Any camera with an APS-C size sensor (roughly 23mm by 15mm) can pull this off nicely. But you also need a lens that pull it off. This requires a combination of a long focal lens and a low focal ratio (the focal ratio is the ratio of the lens focal length divided by the lens' diameter of clear aperture (the area through which the light may pass.) It turns out lots of characterstics of the lens will affect the particular quality of this blur. The "quality" (not to be confused with the intensity) is referred to as "bokeh". Not all lenses (even lenses with the same specs regarding focal lengths and focal ratios) will produce the same quality blur. Zoom lenses that can offer long-ish focal lengths and provide low fixed focal ratios (e.g. f/2.8 zooms) do this nicely. But those lenses are all roughly $1000 or more (for just the lens... that doesn't include the cost of the camera.) There are some non-zoom lenses (A lens that does not "zoom" is referred to as a "prime" lens.) which are much more affordable. E.g. the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM would do a very nice job and costs a little over $300 (I didn't check the price). There's a much more economical version... Canon introduced a new version of their EF 50mm f/1.8 with the STM focus motors (the "STM" motors are exceptionally quiet -- so quiet that the internal mic on the camera typically cannot pickup the noise of the focus motors moving.) That lens wont be able to get quite as much intensity of blur as the f/1.4 version... but the f/1.8 version is VERY affordable... at only $125 it's a bargain. Lastly, how you position your subjects and background are important. The closer the subject is to the lens, the easier it is to create that shallow DoF. And the farther away the background is behind your subject... the more strongly out of focus it will be. If you put a subject directly in front of a wall, that wall will only be very slightly out of focus. But if you put your subject at a very close distance to the camera and then quite a large distance between your subject and your background, then it's much easier to get a tack-sharp subject and a strongly blurred background. One of the really nice things about DSLR cameras is that they're really just the base part of an overall camera "system". When you use point & shoot camera, the lens is permanently attached. The point & shoot does whatever it does... and over the years there's really not much you can do to change anything. But a DSLR camera has removeable lenses and the ability to leverage numerous accessories. This means all you need is enough to buy the base camera and a single "kit" lens to get you started. That will not satisfy what you'd like to do with video (it wont produce a particularly high quality nor strong out of focus blur effect -- you'll have some effect but it will be very weak.) But over time you save and buy another lens (like that 50mm f/1.8 STM lens). Eventually you can upgrade the camera body ... but you get to keep using all the lenses you've accumulated, etc.

What camera would be best

Need help in selecting a camera and lenses.
Need good digital photos of both Paintings and landscapes. Would like a camera with the option of different lenses. Would like high pixel content and good battery life.
Advice would be appreciated.
Price range- middle 400-900
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You'll be looking at the Rebel series for interchangable lenses and the T4i & T5i or the SL 1all of which have an 18 megapixel sensor. You may also want to research the EOS M (I haven't done any real reading about it.)
There are good reviews here that may point you in the right direction as to which fits your needs best
http://www.imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM?view=Canon_reviews
The kit lens included with Rebel bodies would be a good start lens wise but I'm sure you'll want to explore lenses more once you get shooting.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

What cameras would be good for 1920X 1080?

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