What effect is there that makes my movies look old?

Hi I like the scratches in the aged effect, but I don't like the speckle look. Are there any suggestions to get the movie in sort of a "sepia tone" and scratches?
I'm using iMovie 6 HD

Hi Elizabeth - the GeeThree company has a free sampler which includes a 'film-noise B&W' effect - it allows you to manipulate the amount of scratch, dust etc. Once applied, you could then apply a colour shift that might get close to what you want (cf/x has a colorize plugin that can add a sepia tone across the clip).
http://www.geethree.com/
http://www.imovieplugins.com/

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When exporting to a DVD from Final Cut Pro X, what settings are there to make sure you making the highest quality DVD possible?

When exporting to a DVD from Final Cut Pro X, what settings are there to make sure you making the highest quality DVD possible?

There have been a lot of recent reports of difficulties sharing to DVD, but haven't been hearing about unreadable disks. Posibly there was an encoding error. Or it could have been bad media (blank disk).
Does it play in your Mac?
What brand of disks are you using?
Russ

How do I make multiple movies look like one?

I created a demo of 136 slides with mostly screencaps and one
small flash animation. The final published flash file is
approximately 30MB. When the demo is run on multiple computers, the
CPU utilization rises up to almost 100%, this makes the demo run
very slowly on most computers. I was advised to cut my captivate
movie in half ( in slides)... however even then the CPU utilization
is quite high. How can I break my demo into multiple linked movies
(to bring down the file size) but still have it play smoothly
without it stopping to load after each new movie? How do I make
multiple movies look like one?
Thank you.

Would it work to make the navigation of the page go to the
next movie?

Wonder what effects were used to make this?

I'm making a version of this with a different logo. Anyway, it *seems* like an emboss, but it isn't one I've encountered before. Doesn't seem like any of the out-the-box emboss emboss options to me. The gradient isn't a problem....except in regards to the emboss. It has a very sexy, chiseled, sharp look to it that it pretty hard to recreate using homemade gradients and built-in emboss features (that I know of). Any thoughts? Thanks, buds.

It seems like there's a lot going on here. There's that chiseled, metallic emboss that is most clear on the "O". But there also seems to be a 3D effect maybe (although it could be a copy of the logo an a separate layer I suppose). The emboss around the type is strange to me in how it is viewable at every angle. As mentioned, I figured out the gradient pattern for the face of the logo (pretty simple to do with the brush tool) but that galdern emboss just blows my mind. It looks like it was made with either a modified stroke, a copy of the logo an another layer, a 3D effect, the basic hard emboss or all of the above. It's really well done to the point that it just looks abstract to me in terms of technique. And even the emboss has what appears to be some kind of gradient applied. I'm too much of a photoshop simpleton at this stage to figure it all out though.
This is as far as I managed to get:
As you can see, it lacks that crisp look. Hmmm....

In FCPX can I stack clips of multiple angles on top of each other and choose what parts I want to make my movie out of?

Hi there
I'm debating whether to purchase FInal Cut Pro X or not and I'm new(ish) to video editing.
What I have done so far is produce a music video mimed to audio and shot at about 20 different angles. Each angle is the length of the ENTIRE song, not just snipets.
What I want to be able to do is have those 20 videos sitting stacked up on top of each other (completely synced to the audio) and be able to choose what parts of what video I make my final video out of.
So I want to be able to tell the system to start at angle 1, then at a specific time move to angle 6, then angle 19, then back to angle 1, then angle 16 etc etc etc.
But I dont want to cut up the parts of each camera angle first, I want to be able to select a specific part to play from each ENTIRE camera angle.
Is this possible please? And also what is the correct terminology for this process?
I apologise for not using the correct terminology here, as I dont know the correct words for what I am trying to explain.
Thanks

FCPX mulitcam editing is the most advanced of any NLE on the market at the moment.
Read the user manual here to learn how Multiclips work.
http://help.apple.com/finalcutpro/mac/10.0.6/#ver23c76439
You'll want to learn about how to work with Audio Channels with multiclips, also. Very powerful.
http://help.apple.com/finalcutpro/mac/10.0.6/#verc1fab5f6
Here is my article on audio channels in Multiclips.
http://www.macprovideo.com/hub/final-cut/final-cut-pro-multiclip-audio-channel-e diting-1006

What reasons are there that the boot loader might not recognize OSX?

So il try to make this brief:
1. I dragged the contents of the "Macintosh HD" partition on my internal hardrive to a partition of an external hardrive made specifically for containing the dmg "Macintosh HD" (which supposedly holds all the files pertaining to OSX?).
2. A couple weeks later (now) I erased the contents of my internal hardrives "Macintosh HD" partition and replaced it with that of the partion of my external hardrive which contains the "backup" dmg "Macintosh HD".
Theoretically, my computer should be exactly as it was a couple weeks ago right?
So going back to the heart of the matter, why doesn't the boot loader recognize OSX?
Thanks in advance for your time :)

Maybe I'm going about this the wrong way.... heres what I want to do:
I want to install mac OSX 10.8.5, a couple of audio interface drivers, Pro Tools 11/ 10 and Cubase 6. Following this, I want to imediatley make a backup that will not update. My reasoning; I'm using the computer in question as a "glorified tape recorder" and as we all know, over time computers (even macs) become "cluttered" (im not talking about messy file organization). Reinstalling isn't an ideal solutaion for me as reinstalling OSX would remove all kinds of presets from my DAWS and interface controls (too many to backup individually).
Thanks, Patrick Mulholland.

What Are The Conditions that Make OpenCL Unavailable?

Up to 2 days ago I had ATI Catalyst 12.2 installed. I was able to check all the boxes in the Advanced Graphics Processor Settings dialog and they stayed set. Specifically, I had [ ] Use OpenCL set and Photoshop CS6 worked very well.
Because I need to know about the quality of newer drivers for my own product development, I upgraded my ATI driver suite to the current version - Catalyst 12.4.
Unfortunately, this caused new problems I hadn't had before - specifically a number of GPU-accelerated features didn't work, such as Oil Paint, which would appear to try to start then just exit a split second later. And with Catalyst 12.4 the [ ] Use OpenCL setting became unavailable (grayed-out).
With my own testing done, I decided to completely uninstall the ATI Catalyst 12.4 suite, and drop back to Catalyst 12.2.
This was a simple matter of uninstalling everything AMD then rebooting (with the Windows driver), then installing Catalyst 12.2. That went smoothly.
However, now I still do not find the [ ] Use OpenCL box has become available again - it's grayed out:
I'm pretty sure there are no remnants from the 12.4 drivers left on my system (though there's a possibility I could have missed something), and everything from the 12.2 set installed successfully, so the question is this:
Did Photoshop sense something about the 12.4 driver set, then set some kind of permanent "No OpenCL" flag in its own configuration settings?
Here's my system info with the 12.2 drivers installed. Note the "OpenCL: Unavailable" entry.
http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/SystemInfo.txt
Note that all my GPU-accelerated features seem to work... Oil Paint works and is plenty fast, the various Blur tools work nice and fast, I can do 3D rendering (though there's one small glitch I've had since Photoshop CS6 was released where occasionally it becomes unresponsive for a few seconds at a time while doing 3D work). But it does finally respond.
-Noel

Thanks for the info.
I understand what OpenCL is about, and to some extent at least the code should be portable, since there are standards that the implementations follow.
But whether Adobe's code IS portable to all video cards, or whether all video drivers/cards implement the same standards, or even whether all video drivers/cards implement the standards correctly is always in question.
From what I can see whether Photoshop CS6 is willing to consider the OpenCL in the ATI/AMD Catalyst 12.2 package good enough to use comes and goes. The [ ] Use OpenCL box may be grayed out in some runs of Photoshop and not in others. I've personally set the option, had Liquify come up and run fine, and then later (in another run of Photoshop CS6) found [ ] Use OpenCL unchecked and grayed-out - and STILL had Liquify come up and run fine. I suspect this is because there are a number of different ways Photoshop is willing to try to do the work, and it's falling back to an alternate strategy.
In Catalyst 12.4 I would NEVER see the OpenCL setting available, and in fact Liquify wouldn't even come up.
I assume the support for what Photoshop needs is marginal in the recent ATI/AMD drivers, but it would be good to know a little more about why the OpenCL setting comes and goes like it does.
-Noel

What changed in v32, that makes emscripten compiled JS code awfully slow?

Today I updated to v32.0.1 of Firefox. I'm currently working on the JS version of our face tracking library (Beyond Reality Face), that is emscripten compiled code. In v31 I got 36 FPS, while in v32 and v33 (beta) I got 10 to 12 FPS.
Does anyone know, if there was a change, that could course that slowdown?
Thanks in advance.

Edit: After a lot more of testing I got:
Emscripten + Google Closure Compiler (--compilation_level 'SIMPLE')
seems to generate something, that Firefox v32 handles differently than v31 (and thus slower). Must be something basic, like Array access or whatsoever.

What Are The Condions that Make OpenCL Unavailable?

Up to 2 days ago I had ATI Catalyst 12.2 installed. I was able to check all the boxes in the Advanced Graphics Processor Settings dialog and they stayed set. Specifically, I had [ ] Use OpenCL set and Photoshop CS6 worked very well.
Because I need to know about the quality of newer drivers for my own product development, I upgraded my ATI driver suite to the current version - Catalyst 12.4.
Unfortunately, this caused new problems I hadn't had before - specifically a number of GPU-accelerated features didn't work, such as Oil Paint, which would try to start then just exit. And with Catalyst 12.4 the [ ] Use OpenCL box became grayed-out.
With my own testing done, I decided to completely uninstall the ATI Catalyst 12.4 suite, and drop back to Catalyst 12.2, which worked well. This was a simple matter of uninstalling everything AMD then rebooting (with the Windows driver), then installing Catalyst 12.2. That went smoothly.
However, now I still do not find the [ ] Use OpenCL box has become available again - it's grayed out:
I'm pretty sure there are no remnants from the 12.4 drivers left anywhere on my system, and everything from the 12.2 set installed successfully, so the question is this: Did Photoshop sense something about the 12.4 driver set, then set some kind of permanent "No OpenCL" flag in its own configuration settings?
Here's my system info with the 12.2 drivers installed. Note the "OpenCL: Unavailable" entry.
http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/SystemInfo.txt
-Noel

Oops, I posted it in the wrong forum (in addition to misspelling "Conditions").
Pierre (or other forum Mod), could you please just delete this thread? I have reposted it over on the Photoshop General Discussion forum.
Thanks.
-Noel

What typfaces are there that I can use varied weights for East Asian Characters?

I am at a dead end trying to find a typeface which is not a script, which offers me more than one stroke weight for Traditional Chinese and South Korean characters. I need a typeface which will compliment Helvetica.
Please help!
Thank you

I can't help you with Korean. As for Chinese, the system fonts for Windows and the Chinese fonts bundled with some Adobe products come in a single weight, as you already know. However, some of the Japanese fonts bundled with InDesign come in multiple weights: various weights of Kozuka Pro _might_ work for traditional Chinese, though some forms occur only in Japanese.
Character set is a big deal, and Chinese fonts vary significantly in the number of characters they contain. Typically, you get more characters in standard weights (i.e., "regular" or "light"). Note, too, that authors frequently use Windows system fonts for Chinese (MingLiU or PMingLiU). These happen to have very large character sets, meaning they contain many variant forms that are not available in most fonts; inevitably, authors use some of these variants and they show up missing in the weight you need.
Dynafont and Arphic packages are pretty well regarded, and included a variety of weights in some styles -- but watch out for character-set issues. I can't recommend a source since the one I used disappeared.
Good luck!
David

Setting that makes black text look colour to a printer

A quick sorry for not being totally on the ball with indesign (cs4), so please help me with simple wording if you can help as I am not a professional.
I created a colour booklet which was fine until I was asked to do it all again but this time with the outside cover being colour and the rest of the pages inside black and white. so this I did by changing all text, boxes, strokes etc in to black (not rich black just 100%K) and ran the jpgs through Photoshop to make them greyscale, so far so good. At this stage everything was as I needed it to be so I hit the export and saved a PDF version and sent the file. Now for the reason for doing this. My friend soon realised that printing colour pages on their works professional multi function printing device is expensive, as colour pages are charged for at higher price per copy compared to Black and white by the machines operator. Now for the problem: The booklet is being printed with a colour front cover and the rest is in black and white as I wanted it to be, but as far as the printer is concerned it is seeing the black text as colour so is charging for it. Ouch.
Of the few things I know of preferences I have made sure that it is not set to output all blacks as rich black which I thought would be the cure but it would not seem to be. I am at a loss to understand the other output settings or other stuff which may be telling the printer to use the colour cartridges instead of just the black. Help Please
If it is of help I made and exported a single page file in the same way with just a greyscale jpg on it and that printed just fine with the printer charging it as a black and white page as it should so the problem realy is in how the text is being seen.

OK, so where we are at the moment.
over the holiday I had the reason to re-format my computer which isn't such a bad thing as I got to reload Indesign which should have corrected any problems in the indesign preferences ( I would Hope) and set everything to its default:
On opening indesign for the first time I changed the appearance of black setting to display and output all blacks accurately.
I went in to bridge and set the suit colour settings to Europe general purpose 2 and synchronised.
As it looks now: I made a new file where I typed one word in black (Helo)
I checked the typed word with the separations preview, turning off the black and cmyk and the typed word disappeared which is a good thing as this means there is no other colour present on the page except 100%K.
I saved and exported the file to PDF as Press Quality, (the only other box ticked on the general page was the optimise for fast web view which I left alone and unchanged) I left all other pages in the export area unchanged from the defaults produces by the Press Quality preset
I sent the file off and guess what: the printer saw it as colour and charged it as colour.
Below is the summery produced in the summery page in the PDF export window
Description
    Use these settings to create Adobe PDF documents best suited for high-quality prepress printing. Created PDF documents can be opened with Acrobat and Adobe Reader 5.0 and later.
PDF Preset: [Press Quality]
Compatibility: Acrobat 5 (PDF 1.4)
Standards Compliance: None
General
    Pages: All
    Spreads: Off
    Generate Thumbnails: Off
    Optimise PDF: On
    Create Acrobat Layers: N/A
    Export Layers: Visible and Printable Layers
    Include Bookmarks: Off
    Include Hyperlinks: Off
    Export Nonprinting Objects: Off
    Export Visible Guides and Baseline Grids: Off
    Create Tagged PDF: Off
    Include Interactive Elements: Off
    Multimedia: N/A
Compression
    Colour Images
        Bicubic Downsample at: 300 ppi
        for images above: 450 ppi
        Compression: Automatic
        Tile Size: N/A
        Quality: Maximum
    Greyscale Images
        Bicubic Downsample at: 300 ppi
        for images above: 450 ppi
        Compression: Automatic
        Tile Size: N/A
        Quality: Maximum
    Monochrome Images
        Bicubic Downsample at: 1200 ppi
        for images above: 1800 ppi
        Compression: CCITT Group 4
    Compress Text and Line Art: On
    Crop Image Data to Frames: On
Marks and Bleeds
    Crop Marks: Off
    Bleed Marks: Off
    Registration Marks: Off
    Colour Bars: Off
    Page Information: Off
    Page Mark Type: Default
    Weight: 0.25 pt
    Offset: 2.117 mm
    Use Document Bleed Settings: Off
    Bleed Top: 0 mm
    Bleed Bottom: 0 mm
    Bleed Left: 0 mm
    Bleed Right: 0 mm
    Include Slug Area: Off
Output
    Colour Conversion: Convert to Destination (Preserve Numbers)
    Destination: Document CMYK - Coated FOGRA27 (ISO 12647-2:2004)
    Profile Inclusion Policy: Don't Include Profiles
    Simulate Overprint: N/A
    Output Intent Profile Name: N/A
    Output Condition: N/A
    Output Condition Identifier: N/A
    Registry Name: N/A
Advanced
    Subset Fonts Below: 100%
    Omit PDF: Off
    Omit EPS: Off
    Omit Bitmap Images: Off
    Transparency Flattener Preset: N/A
    Ignore Spread Overrides: N/A
Security
    N/A
Warnings

What effect is used to provide this relief look on a lapel pin proof?

I am working on sending a proof to someone for a project and have my file in vector for manufacturing. I also have it in jpeg format and would like to be able to create an effect like this one shows. Can anyone point me in the right direction? It seems the gold outline looks raised and the colors of the pin are sunken in to provide a 3-D effect.
I am also curious how to "mirror" the image and fill with a solid color to create the backside markings. I have done this in the past in Corel but am somewhat new to PS.
The image below is the image I am working with where the black would be raised and the red, white, blue would have the "sunken" appearance

With the image all rasterized in pixels, you'll have to do it a bit differently than if you had it in vector shapes in several layers.
Just one possible way to get there from here:
Increase the canvas size to include empty space all around.
Select then mask or delete the white surround.
Duplicate the graphic as a second layer, run Filter - Stylize - Emboss, then set that layer to Overlay.
Add a Drop Shadow Layer Style to the original layer.
Test it on several different backgrounds.
Here's the PSD file if you'd like to look at the individual layers:
http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/EmbossPlusDropShadow.psd
-Noel

What do you use to make Gnome apps look good in KDE4?

What are you all using to make Gnome apps (like Firefox, Gimp, Inkscape.. etc) look good in KDE (I am using KDEmod).
I tried Qtcurve (I think it works the best), gtk-qt-engine (for some reason it didn't seem to work for me) and others...
I want to hear opinion from other people (who use KDE or possibly KDEmod) and who are probably using Arch longer than me. This is my first successful Arch install.
Last edited by kdar (2009-12-15 03:07:05)

+1 for qtcurve
yes.. i need to rebrand the startmenu icon....
Last edited by Rasi (2009-12-15 07:06:46)

What is out there running OS Platform?

Hi All
My Palm T/X is dying. Like other folks posts that I've been looking at, I also only want a PDA to keep 'lists' . I use Smartlist to Go, Docs to Go, Quicken for Palm, assorted other 3rd party palm apps. OK, Palm is no longer making just a PDA; my cell phone carrier will NOT support any Palm Smartphone.
Is there any other handheld (PDA only) out there - by any other manufacturer still being sold as NEW and running the palm OS platform - that can be purchased. As I've read, consensus is to buy a used/refurbished device off the internet. That would be my last resort.
On the Dataviz site, Smartlist to Go can only be run on the OS platform. Their list of OS platform devices doesn't seem to list any devices that haven't been discontinued.
I'm almost at my wit's end, and up that proverbial creek. What is out there that will fit into my purse/jacket pocket that will suit my needs?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

The biggest hurdle is that the Lithium Ion battery degrades at the time of manufacture. If a new T|X is been on the shelf for a few years it may or may not have tripped the safety mechanism to where the battery won't charge at all. At least, that's how I figure why Li-Ions tend to die when in storage with a power draw. On the other hand, a lightly used but somewhat managed device might have a decent battery. It just varies, but in my experiences buying used devices anything with a non-removable battery has fared worse than the user replaceable packs.
If it is dying because of a weak battery, it might be a good idea to replace it if it is not a hassle.

Best way to simulate b&w silent movie look?

I am running iMovie 09 and want to film a silent movie.
I want it to have the same look a film from the 1920s would have.
Obviously the first step is to make it black and white. Then you can speed it up--200% looks pretty good.
The next obvious step would be to use the "Aged Film" filter. But you can only do one filter at a time in iMovie 09--in other words, you can't make it both black and white AND Aged Film.
So, what would you do to make an authentic looking silent film in iMovie? Any other ideas I haven't thought of? Thanks for your help.

Hi,
There are two ways to make black and white photos and
I am wondering if either is better than the other.
They are:
1. Shot the color shot and have iphoto turn it into
a b & w shot.
2. Set the camera, a Canon Rebel XT, to shoot the
photo as a B & W shot.
I have not had time to test these methods in a
methodical way. From what I have seen, when iPhoto
converts a color shot into a b & W shot, it hasnt
looked too impressive. Sort of bland.
On the other hand, using the camera to shoot in b & w
mode seems to produce more expressive shots.
Is this what others have found? Or is iPhoto better
at converting color shots into b & w and I am just
doing it wrong?
Thanks,
Rereading my post (and noticing no replies) I hope I didnt come off as a jerk. When I wrote I didnt have time to do research on these methods, I meant that, I just got the camera, and am leaving for Hong Kong in 2 days. So I need advice on the best way to shoot black and white photos using the Canon Rebel. Camera or iphoto?

What effect is there that makes my movies look old?

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