What's the Best Protection for Nano?

I have just bought an iPod Nano, I was wandering which protection is best to prevent scratches? I have heard about the Invisible Shield, what are people's opinions about this product?

invisible shield is one of the best, i have one myself, great for showing off the nano and protecting it. iskin is also a great case/.
iPods- 4gb Balck Nano, 60gb Black 5g}{Black Moto Razr}{PSP}{iPod Radio Remote Windows XP <img src="http://www.filehigh.com/serve/1/6566.gif"align="right"</span>

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What is the best protection for my iphone 4s?

what is the best protection for my iphone 4s?

I agree with GZukes that there are many opinions on this question, but the Otterbox typically has been known as the most protective.
Good Luck!
http://amzn.to/wIIoPK

What are the BEST cases for Nano?

Hey I just got my Nano on the 29th of Oct. (my birthday) and now I have read many reports on how easily it scratches. So I have been super careful and yet I'm startin to see fine scratches that you can see under a bright light. I just wondering if there are any sites with REAL good cases they are selling. I'm not buying Apple's because they don't protect the screen. So if anyone knows any real working protecting cases, please tell me. Even if you haven't ordered from it at least give me some sites that are legit and I will see if I will like it
Thank you
EDIT: Okay I have been looking around and I have decided to do this if I can.
I will buy the Invisible Sheild and put it on and then buy a case to put over it. Would that be a good idea?

Hi,
I have a silicone case and 4 layer screen armour lol but u can just buy the iskin duo or EXOs cases whicha re pretty good
I got 2 cases and a layer of skin and 4 layer screen armour so lol im not worried one bit abuot FURTHER scratches lol
Cheers lol,
Shreyas

What's the best protective shield for my 3GS?

Hi Everyone,
Sorry to bother, but I just got a new iPhone 3GS and I'm wondering what's the best protector to put on the phone. I understand the 3GS has a new type of "coating" on the screen so I don't want to do any damage to it. I also heard the 3GS has these proximity sensors so I don't want to get a case that will interfere with that. Anyhow, I wanted to get an Invisible Shield, a full body one, but wanted to make sure I don't do damage to the phone. I've read the forums and it seems there is no definitive answer on whether or not the Invisible Shield is the best one. Any iPhone experts know what's the best protective shield for the 3GS? And will the Invisible Shield do any damage to the screen or coating on the new 3GS? I talked to a person at Apple and they didn't think it would do any damage, but to be honest, she didn't sound as knowledgeable as I would like. I'm sorry for being paranoid. Can you guys chime in?
Thanks!

The reason for no definite answer is that it matters what YOU are looking for in a case or protective screen cover...
To answer your shield question...the shield product itself will not damage the phone and that coating is not to prevent scratches...it's to help prevent fingerprints...since you plan to put a screen cover on then that coating doesn't really matter...HOWEVER, the way that the shield can harm the phone is IF it's not properly installed by YOU...since the design of that product calls for a liquid solution agent to be used to adhere the cover to the case of the phone, others have gone overboard with that liquid and then ended up with water damaged phones due to the faulty install...If you install properly then it's not an issue
Personally I used a full shield cover on a previous phone and hated it...so again it's all up to your taste...
What I currently have now is the simple Apple sold Anti-Glare screen cover you can buy two to a pack for 15.00 at Apple store...I have used since first Gen iPhone and loved it...
I have a Case-Mate leather hard plastic case but am not thrilled with it since the edges are raised around the edges of the screen and sometimes prevent me from hitting a button right up against the screen edge...so I don't use it much...
Other covers made by Case-Mate like the Barely There cover don't have that problem...so you really need to shop around and see what case you like and what you dislike...
Cases specifically sold to be compatible with 3GS will not interfere with either the proximity or any other sensor on the phone face...

What is the best protective case for the iPhone 4s?

What is the best protective case for the iPhone 4s? If I drop my phone I don't want it to crack or break. How protective is the Gorrila Glass?

I am using the Otterbox Defender, and it's a great case.
Gorilla glass is a glass applied to phones (not the iPhone, it does not use Corning branded glass), but the iPhone screen is pretty good against scratches.

What is the best protective case for 2011 13" Macbook Pro

What is the best protective case for 2011 13" Macbook Pro (that can withstand an active 4 year old :). My 4 year old plays with the teaching apps on my iPhone 4 in the otterbox case and its great - the bulkiness of the otterbox not an issue and I love being able to give the phone to him and feel completely comforatable. I would love to find something to protect my Macbook Pror. Thanks for any help!!

I would definitely go for a Hardsheel or a Perforated Hardshell Case

What is the best app for Maintenance/Cleanup for my mac? Do I need Virus Protection?

What is the best app for Maintenance/Cleanup for my Mac? Do I need Virus protection?

How to maintain a Mac
Make two or more backups of all your files
One backup is not enough to be safe. A copy of a backup doesn't count as another backup; all backups must be made directly from the original data.
Keep at least one backup off site at all times in case of disaster. Backing up to a cloud-data service is one way to accomplish this, but don't rely exclusively on such backups.
In fact, don’t rely exclusively on any single backup method, such as Time Machine.
If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
Keep your software up to date
In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
Don't install crapware
...such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. You didn't buy a computer so you could clean caches.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts
Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions.
Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
Avoid malware
"Malware" is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common and dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party "anti-virus" products for protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
Don't fill up your disk or SSD
A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
Relax, don’t do it
Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime for maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention just to keep going, use a PC, or collect antique cars.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the best skin for new Macbook Air 13"?

What is the best skin for new Macbook Air 13"?
I have a new Air and want to protect it from scratches and such.
Thanks in advance

Sorry, I don't like "skins". They inhibit the heat transfer necessary to keep your MBA cool. Get a soft or hard case to store it when not in use. I like Speck products.
Just take care of it. Battle scars make it uniquely yours.

I have a Mac late 06 with lion and what to know what is the best protection/security software to get, Mc Fee or Norton or...

I have a Mac late 06 with lion and want to know what is the best protection/security to get, Mc Fee, or Norton,or...

None of the above.
Norton in particular is anathema.
You have Apple's Xprotect system built-in. malware definitions are updated at each Security Update.
If you feel the need for belt & braces, ClamXAV is the (free) tool of choice.
Your best security is still the stuff between your ears. Don't click on pop-up links telling you need a new codec or (especially) Flash Player. Use your common sense and you'll stay ahead of the industry.

HT4914 I purchased iMatch because my old computer was failing and I was afraid of losing my music library. Now I bought a new laptop; what is the best way for me to transfer my library to my new laptop? Will iMatch help me do this?

I purchased iMatch because my old computer was failing and I was afraid of losing my music library. Now I bought a new laptop; what is the best way for me to transfer my library to my new laptop? Will iMatch help me do this?

Is/was failing or has failed?
If the old computer still runs one of these methods may be best.
Method 1
Backup the library with this User Tip.
Restore the backup to your new computer using the same tool used to back it up.
Deauthorize the old computer if you no longer want to access protected content on it.
Keep your backup up-to-date in future.
Method 2
Connect the two computers to the same network. Share your <User's Music> folder from the old computer and copy the entire iTunes library folder into the <User's Music> folder on the new one. Again, deauthorize the old computer if no longer required.
I'd recommend method 1 since it establishes an ongoing backup for your library.
I don't have personal experience with iTunes Match, but in principle you should be able to download all the tracks currently registered to your iTunes Match account. This isn't quite the same as restoring your previous library exactly as it was. There is always the potential for iTunes match to provide the wrong version of a song and could be content such as movies, podcasts, audiobooks etc. that would have been excluded.
tt2

Hello, what is the best way for me to convert RW2 raw format for use in Photoshop CC

Hello, what is the best way for me to convert RW2 raw format for use in Photoshop CC. I would appreciate any help with this.

Thanks for the quick help. I do have to leave for work. When I try to
download the images from the camera they seem to only be in jpeg (I don't
see any rw2 or raw files to download). If I select the jpeg file it seems
to only download a jpeg file. I do understand that I do have the option to
open the jpeg in RAW. In doing this, is all the extra information included
in the RAW file there or is it lost coming from the camera
Once again thank you for trying to make me understand how this works.
Have a great day.
On Sat, Sep 13, 2014 at 12:14 PM, ssprengel <[email protected]>

What is the best method for saving files off of the hard drive?

I would like to save music files and photos somewhere other than my hard drive (eg. CDs, DVDs, zip disks). What is the best method for doing this?

It rather depends on how paranoid you are
External hard drives protect you from hard disk trouble on your machine.
Optical media (CD's, DVD's) protect you from trouble with magnetic disks - such as external hard drives and the HD in your machine. Optical disks are thought to be more reliable that magnetic disks for long term storage.
Off site back-ups will protect you from fire or theft at your home or office.
How paranoid are you? Personally everything is backed up across three diferent external HD's. And maybe twice a year I burn a copy of my photos onto DVDs and they go to a relative's house across town.
Regards
TD

Have Pixma MG2120. What is the best paper for water resistant photos?

I have a Pixma MG2120. What is the best paper for water resistant photos?

Hi neuend1,
While the ChromaLife100 inks (included with the PIXMA MG2120) in combination with our genuine Canon photo paper, will provided basic protection against humidity, we do not recommend direct moisture exposure to the image. If the image will be displayed in an environment that demands water resistance, I recommend protecting your finished print behind glass or another airtight display.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to Contact Us!
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

What's the best antivirus for mac???should i use one or not??

what's the best antivirus for mac?? and also should i have one on my mac or not???

salar ip wrote:
what's the best antivirus for mac?? and also should i have one on my mac or not???
Mac's use a Unix based operating system and other controls that make it hostile for viruses to thrive.
However it's possible to carry Windows viruses to other Windows machines by a Mac, also there might be some corruption if your dealing with a lot of Windows files.
So all you really need is a scanner to run when you need it, something like the free ClamXav is good.
http://www.clamxav.com/
Apple includes a anti-trojan/malicious program type anti-malware service built into all latest versions of OS X, it works and updates in the background.
There has been many attempts at trying to "trojan" or trick Mac users into installing rogue software on web pages. If you see soemthing like this, best to just Force Quit the browser by clicking on the Finder and selecting Force Quit from the menu.
A alternative browser like Firefox will offer more protection.
If you run your typical day to day operations on a Mac in what's called "Standard User", with a separate Admin User account, you'll need to update your Apple Menu > Software Update and your Apple Menu > System Preferences > Security > toggle the "Automatically Update Safe Downloads List" check box on/off about once a week.
Standard User provides more security restrictions, but is also designed not to intrude into those who are less capable use of the computer.
Third party plugins for your browser like Flash and Silverlight (used on Netflix) require a once a week check for updates.
Use a free service like the Mozilla browser check here:
https://www.mozilla.com/en-US/plugincheck/
Always back up your personal data and never install programs that your not 100% you trust the source of.
If you have any questions or suspicions, simply ask the opinions of the more senior users here on this forum.
Good advice is not to install any anti-virus like Norton that demands the operating system remain a consistent state. Apple changes things all the time, which breaks software like Norton or OS X itself when a Software Update occurs.
There are two great free 3D games, simply search for: Nexiuz Classic and Cube 2 Sauerbraten.
If this information helped you, please click "Helpful" or "Solved" thank you.
Good Luck and enjoy your Mac.

What's the Best Protection for Nano?

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