What should I trust more? FCP waveform, pro waveform/mon, consumer monitor?

What should I trust more when it comes to preparing a project for DVD (exporting a timeline to Compressor then using DVD Studio Pro)?
My bars look fine on the internal waveform and vectorscope. So does the image. (And everything looked fine when I captured the footage on an external waveform/vectorscope).
When I play a burned DVD, all the levels (blacks and whites) are low on my home 1080p LCD (the DVD is SD, anamorphic).
When I play the DVD on 4 different consumer CRTs and LCDs, the image looks very close to what FCP shows on the computer screen.
At work, when I play the DVD through an SDI framesync, through a Sony 8000 switcher, into a waveform vectorscope, the blacks are -7.5 and the whites are at 105. The chroma is just a tiny bit high.
Why is there such inconsistency between these three? How do you deal with it when you want to make a pro quality DVD?
And, most importantly, which program is making this change in levels: compressor, or DVD Studio Pro?
The target audience for my DVD is the consumer market, but it'll also be sent to industry people, so it needs to look as good as possible.
Thanks for your help.

Exiting my exile as this thread is interesting.
A couple of things. If you work at a place with a big ole 8000 switcher, there should be some staff engineers to help you track down your black level problem, aren't there? Also, there's no need to hit a switcher crosspoint simply to monitor your levels in a waveform/vectorscope.
In FCP, black is digital which means zero IRE. The output of your dvd player is analog which means black is 7.5 IRE. Darn near every dvd player made has a menu choice to manipulate black levels, you should probably find out where your studio dvd player is set.
The dvd player output is analog, why not plug the thing into an analog waveform?
If you must convert the dvd output to SDI, you need to make sure the frame shaker TBC controls are set to unity, did you do this?
If you must hit a switcher crosspoint, (my knowledge of the Sony switchers is very very thin) there are handles within the switcher for TBC controls; make sure that crosspoint is set to unity as well.
Black levels are tricky, without being there it's hard to tell you exactly why. Have a house engineer walk through the steps with you.
But, to answer your first question, the built-in scopes within FCP are innaccurate, trust calibrated hardware scopes first. Again, if you must use a frame shaker, you MUST set the TBC controls to unity before you can make any sort of qualitative judgements.
Report back.

Similar Messages

WHAT SHOULD I DO MORE TO GET MY FILES BACK IN THE FCP FORMAT ?

A ROUND-ABOUT PROBLEM
RECENTLY I GRADUATED FROM. FCE AND FCE HD. I DECIDED TO INSTALL FCP 5. I HAVE POWER BOOK G4 V10.4.8, PROCESSOR 1.5 GHZ PC SDRAM WITH INTERNAL MEM 80 DISK STORAGE AND 1 GB DDR SDRAM. I ALSO HAVE AN EXTERNAL LaCIE WITH 200 CAPACITY.
IN THE PROCESS OF INSTALLING FCP, THE STUPID THING I DID WAS TO CHANGE NAME OF THE MEDIA FILE, AND THIS ACTION CAUSED ALL MY FILES GO OFFLINE. THE OPTIONS GIVEN TO ME BY THE RECONNECT FILLES TABLE BOX TO GET BACK MY FILES ARE:I TRIED TO USE BOTH BUT WITH NO SUCCESS.
I WOULD BE GRATGEFUL TO ANY ONES WHO COULD HELP ME RECOVER MY FILES WITHOUT GOING INTO THE PAIN OF CAPTURING THEM FROM TAPE.
FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE THE PATIENCE PLEASE READ MOR BELOW. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
WHEN I TRY I GET A WARNING WHICH SAYS:
THE FILE FORMAT OF THIS PROJECT IS FROM AN EARLIER VERSION. WOULD YOU LIKE TO UPDATE THIS PROJECT?
NOTE: ONCE SAVED, THIS FILE CANNOT BE OPENED BY PREVIOUS VERSION. TO AVOID OVERWRITING THE ORIGINAL PROJECT FILE , YOU CAN CHOOSE SAVE PROJECT AS FROM THE FILE MENU WHEN PROJECT UPDATING IS COMPLET
WHEN I SAY YES, ANOTHER BOX APPEARS: UPDATE PROJECT. IT SAYS THE FOLLOWING:
THIS PROJECT CONTAINS ONE OR MORE SEQUENCES WHICH THIS VERSION OF FINAL PRODUCT PRO CAN RENDER WITH MOTION TAP QUALITY(NAMELY SCALIBG, ROTATION, ETC). PLEASE CHOSE A SCALING QUALITY TO USE (“FASTEST” RECOMMENDED IS THE QUALITY LEVEL 4.5.
NEW QUALIT Y CHICKED INSIDE THE BOX ARE: BEST, NORMAL, FASTEST OR LINEAR . THE UNCHECKED LITTLE BOX READS: REMOVE EXISTING FILES (THIS ACTION IN NOT UNDOABLE
WHEN I PRESS OK “OFFLINE FILES” BOX APPEARS AND SAYS:
SOME OF THE MEDIA OF YOUR PROJECT REFERENCES EITHER CHANGED, MOVED, OR GONE AWAY.YOU CAN EITHER RECONNECT THESE FILES , OR CONTINUE WITH THEM BEING OFFLINE. BELOW THIS SAYS AS FOLLOWS:
FORGET FILES. BELOW THAT THERE IS AN UNCHED BOX WHICH SAYS: MEDIA FILES 69 OFFLINE
WHEN I PRESS CONNECT INSTEAD OF CONTINUE , THE RECONNECT FILLES BOX OPENS AND 69 OFFLINES FILES APPEAR. IN THIS RECONNECT FILES BOX THERE ARE 2 SECTIONS
THE 1ST SECTION HAS A LITTLE UNCHECKED SKIP FILE BOX AND ANOTHER LITTLE CHECKED BOX WHICH READS: SEARCH SINGLE LOCATION. WHEN I OPEN IT TWO OPTIONS ARE GIVEN AS FOLLOWS:
MACINTOSH HD: USERS WITH MY NAME AND DOCUMENT
LaCILE:FINAL CUT PRO DOCUMENTS; AUTO SAVE VAULT WITH THE TITLE OF MY FILE
WHEN I PRESS RECONNECT I GET THE FALLOWING PATH :
MY NAME.>MACINTOSH HD >APTS FCT 5 >GRAY FILES
WHEN I CHANGE THE SHOW BOX TO REVEAL FILES .I GET OFFLINE
WHEN I ADD RESEACH, IT TAKES ME TO THE A CHOOSE A FOLDER WITH THE FOLLOWING PATH:
MY NAME>LACIE DISK>FINAL CUT DOCUMENT >FOLDER >GRAY FILES WHICH CANNOT BE RVEALD., AND WHICH I CANNOT CHOOSE. IT GOES ON AND ON IN A CIRCLE WITHOUT HELPING ME TO GET MY FILES IN FCP FORMQAT.
WHAT SHOULD I DO MORE TO GET MY FILES BACK IN THE FCP FORMAT WITHOUT BEING STUCK TO OFFLINE FILES FOR EVER? YOUR STEP BY STEP TO WALK ME THROUGH TO REESTABLISH MY FILES WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

A round-about problem
I thank you all for your very kind replies. I have rewritten my issue in lower case as suggested by all of you. I hope I will be helped.
Recently, I thought I had graduated from final cut express and final cut express HD when . I decided to install final cut pro. Perhaps a wishfull thinking!
I have a power book g4 v 10.4.8, processor 1.5 ghz sdram with internal memory of 80 storage disk and 1 gb ddr sdram. I also have an external LaCie with a 200 storage capacity.
In the process of installing final cut pro, I stupidly changed the name of the media file. Maybe this action caused all my clips, video and audio, files go offline. The options given to me by the Reconnect Files Table , to get my files back, are : Single Search Location and Search.
I tried and tried both with no success. I would be grateful to any ones who might be able to help me to recover my clips without going through the pain of recapturing them from the tape. There are several tapes to be recaptured.
Now, for those of you who may have the patience, please read more below to see what I have gone through.
When I try to get to the files, I get the first warning: “The file of this project is from an earlier version. Would like to update this project?” And then it continues: “Note, once saved, this file cannot be opened by previous version. To avoid overwriting the original project file , you can choose Save Project As from the File Menue when the project updating is complete”. (It was at this point where I changed the files names formatted by the previous versions).
When I say Yes, another box appears: Update Project. It reads as follows:
“This project contains one or more sequences which this version of Final Cut Pro can render with Motion Tap (i.e. scalable, rotation, etc). Please choose a scalable quality (“fastest” recommended is the quality level 4.5. New Quality checked inside the little Box are: Best. Normal Fastest or linear." I choose Normal. The unchecked little Box reads: "Remove existing files ( this action is not undoable, it says”.
(By the way, in my project no sequences, have been set up as yet; they are all clips inside the bins with red slash in all clips).
When I press OK, “Offline Clips” Box opens and says the following:
“Some of the media of your project references either changed, moved, or gone away. You can either Reconnect these files, or Continue with them being Offline”. Below this it continues:
“Forget files.” Below that there is an unchecked box which says: “Media Files 69 Offline”.
When I press Connect instead of Continue, the Reconnect Files Box opens with 69 Offline files. In this Reconnect Files Box there are two sections’
The first section has a little unchecked Skip Files Box and another little checked Box which reads: “Search Single Location”.
When I open it, two paths are given to recover my files:
My name>LaCie> Final Cut Document>Folder>Gray files which cannot be revealed, and which I cannot open. I go on and onl ike a checken without a head in a circle without being able to get to the files off Offline.
I have the same problem with the second path: My name>Macintosh HD>FCP 5>gray files.
What should I do more to get my clip files back in the FCP format without being stuck to Offline files for ever?
I am new to this field and enjoy what I am doing. I am old, and sometime my head goes off. Your expert step by step walking me through to reestablish my file linkage with Media would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all and have a nice holiday. Faruk Sabet

Upgraded to Mac Pro- What should I change in FCP to use all 8 cores?

Hi
I went from a G5 to a new Mac Pro. What settings should I change to make sure I can take advantage of the speed from the 8 cores and 6 gigs of Ram and new Nvidia graphics card?
Thanks

There's little to do on that front. FCP will use what it can all by itself. Might look into a virtual cluster though for Compressor. Use the QMaster control panel to set this up... read on it here: http://www.macworld.com/article/49047/2006/01/marcchreateside.html
Jerry

What should I do about my Macbook Pro?

I have several issues with my MacBook Pro two years ago (some which I've had since I got it, however due to my busy work/part-time college schedule I haven't had the opportunity to get them fixed).
1) When I got my MBP I had nasty denting on the top corners of the laptop near the screen hinges (the screen was intact but the base laptop was not) and because of this there are big protruding dents coming out of the laptop above the DVI port and the MagSafe power port, and a small bump above laptop open screen button (The thing in the front that allows you to open the screen when it's shut). There is also a small open gap in the top right corner above DVI slot where you can see into the case (large enough to stick your thumbnail in with a lot of wiggle room). Because of this I've had to avoid using a second monitor at work when possible, when I can't, I've had to push down on the dent to have the DVI connector go in all the way.
2) I suspect this is because the case is dented in, but the several screws on the outside of the case keep slowly coming out and I HAVE to screw them in once every two to three weeks otherwise I fear they may come out completely.
3) Another problem I suspect might have to do with the case being damaged is the DVD drive is screwy. I have yet to burn more a few CDs on the thing, but at least when I try to play CDs/DVDs I've had massive problems with them reading properly. I rarely ever used the drive, but for my birthday this past July my friend gave me the first season of Battlestar Galactica on DVD (brand new factory sealed discs that were scratch free) and whenever I try to put it into my DVD drive even before DVD Player comes up, it ejects the DVD. I had to put it back in no less then a dozen times for some of those discs to stay in. When they did work, they would randomly skip while playing saying that there was an error while reading the discs. Also whenever I would pause and walk away for a while, just to come back and hit play again, the issue would come up again. (Note I tested the DVDs on several other laptops and DVD players and they worked perfectly fine, even in the problematic areas that my laptop said the disc had and they worked perfectly fine)
4) I recently was told about a heating issue with MBPs and I've found out that my laptop runs significantly hotter then others I've read about online (can someone please confirm this for me). While IDLE and the only things running in the background are:
-I have Dashboard permanently turned off
-iStat Menu Bar (for processor and network monitoring only)
-PeerGuardian
-GMail Notifier
-Adium
-You Control:tunes
-SMC Fan Controller (set to 3600RPM for both fans at minimum at all times)
-Wifi is turned off, plugged into Ethernet
-power plugged into the wall with brick sitting on the ground'
-Nothing else is plugged into firewire/usb slots
My laptop temperature runs at 124F ~ 127F. It's to my understanding that the average IDLE temperate at the default fanspeed of 2000RPM is around 100F (plus or minus 10F). When I try to run things such as Firefox or have other thing plugged in, the temperature stays between 127F ~ 130F. (And when I put it on my lap it rarely stays below 130F). If I run Adobe Illustrator CS3 and just have it open to a blank new file, and let it sit, the temperature spikes above 130F (I had to uninstall due to this issue, so I don't know the exact temperature), causing the fans to auto increase to combat the increased temperature.
5) The screen has several problems:
a) There are random black splotches all over the top portion of it, they were not there when I originally purchased the laptop. However over time, they grew larger and in two other areas. I've heard to this problem being called uneven lighting.
b) There's this weird spot in the middle of the screen where I randomly see a big thin red tinted splotch. At first I thought it was in my head, but while I was browsing a website with a black/gray background, it came up quite clearly (I took a screen shot of the website so I have something to reference).
c) When the lights are completely out, no matter what brightness setting my laptop is on, outside of no back light at all, after about 5 seconds or so, the screen tents to flicker in brightness. The dimmer the light setting, the less erratic the flicker, but it still happens even on the lowest setting. (I tried putting small books over my speakers where I suspect the ambient light sensors are, but that doesn't fix the situation either.)
I still have 1 year or so left on my Apple Care, I'm just wondering what I should do about getting my MBP fixed or if I should just ask for a new one, or anything else that you might recommend.

Hi. It seems like you have quite a few different sources of problems.
1) I have had similar dents coming out of the bottom case. I was able to restore most of the ones (like the one above the latch button in the front) by just opening it up and pinching it with pliers. However, if your case is really beat up like mine you might want a new bottom case. If Apple isn't convinced this is part of your AppleCare warranty then they will charge heaps for it, but you can also get one off eBay. Thing is, you'll have to have a very good idea of what you're doing to be able to replace it yourself. There are very good guides for this here, to see if you would be capable of performing the replacement:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/MacBook-Pro-15-Inch-Core-2-Duo/Lower-Case/115/29 /Page-1
2) I think you're probably right.
3) You could try a lens cleaner CD. It does seem like the superdrive is damaged though, but I don't think it's due to a dented case. Does it make a loud noise when the disc is spinning? If not, it might have been damaged at the moment you dented your case, but replacing the case might not fix the problem with your drive. Instead of replacing it, you might want to consider getting a faster external one instead.
4) That does seem a bit hotter than usual, considering your fan speed. I can't help you here because I don't know what could cause this, although maybe your dented case is obstructing airflow somewhere but that's a bit unlikely.
5. a) This indeed has to do with your lighting. You might need to replace the entire display if you can't replace just the backlight.
b) Did you take the screenshot using a camera, or internally on the macbook? If you used the macbook, did the red splotch turn up on the screenshot?
c) This could have to do with the lighting as well seeing as its already bad, if not it might still be the sensors.
Because of the many different problems, Apple might have to replace most of the internals (and the case) of your macbook. If Apple finds that that's not cost effective, they might give you a replacement instead. You can try to ask for one, but I can't say whether or not you will get one.

I have purchased Asus STRIX-GTX980. Now what should I change settings in Premier Pro and After Effects to reduce export time

I have recently purchased Asus STRIX-GTX980 4GB with i7 4790K.
Now what settings are to be optimized in Pr (CS6) to reduce Export time . Please explain in Detail Please explain in Detail step by step
Now what settings to be optimized in Ae (CS6) to reduce Export time . Please explain in Detail step by step .
The main Motto of noto is to reduce expot times.
Please help me set values .

As Dave says, GPU does very little in AE, see this: GPU (CUDA, OpenGL) features in After Effects
Now, some third-party plugins (such as Red Giant Universe and Video Copilot's Element 3d) do make use of the GPU in AE, but their requirements have nothing to do with AE or its settings.
Premiere, on the other hand, does make use of a GPU, you should ask in that forum what they suggest.
Also, in the future, I would suggest checking on system requirements and benefits BEFORE making a purchase...

What should i get, iMac or Macbook Pro?

I have an ipad and i carry it everywhere. Right now i have a desktop at home and its kinda outdated even though i customized it my way by installing better graphics and RAM and a Gaming chasis. now i want to replace this desktop and i have two options. I can either buy an iMac 27' or Macbook Pro. so guys can you help me decide? thanks
p.s i have never used OSX before

I had an old PowerBook G4 (15.6" screen) that never left my desk. When it began to give me trouble (after 6 years), I bought this iMac with a 27" screen and love it. The screen is amazing. I've been able to lay out two good-size spreadsheets with very little scrolling either up and down or sideways.
If you need a computer that's portable, buy the MacBook. If you don't, go for the iMac. It depends how you use your computer. The only recommendation I'd make is that you buy as much RAM as you can afford. The iMac comes standard with 4GB. When I purchased my iMac, I upgraded to 8GB.
I use a PC in a business setting and I find Mac OS X much simpler to use.
Message was edited by: tanya3300

Hello, I use ipone 4 es what should I do but I can not I enable cloudda account, Hello, I use ipone 4 es what should I do but I can not I enable cloudda account

WHAT SHOULD I DO MORE THAN ONE MONTH activated ETKİNLEŞMİYOR ACCOUNT

Well, since you installed it using your Friend's Apple ID, your friend now owns the apps, permenently.
ITS may be able to correct this for you if you email them about it.
iTunes Store Support
http://www.apple.com/emea/support/itunes/contact.html

I am trying to upgrade my macbook pro to os x mavericks, but it has been on the reboot process for more than 2 hours. There is only the apple logo with the spinning ball thing. What should I do?

I am trying to upgrade my macbook pro to os x mavericks， but it has been on the reboot process for more than 2 hours. There is only the apple logo with the spinning ball thing. What should I do?

Hi there Candyleehoiman,
I would recommend taking a look at the troubleshooting steps found in the article below.
Mac OS X: Gray screen appears during startup
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2570
-Griff W.

My iPhoto doesnt allow me to place more photos, says that the space is full but my mac book pro is new (less than 2 weeks) and I only got 500 photos, what should I do?? the computer is almost empty

My iPhoto doesnt allow me to place more photos, says that the space is full but my mac book pro is new (less than 2 weeks) and I only got 500 photos, what should I do?? the computer is almost empty

Apply the two fixes below in order as needed:
Fix #1
Launch iPhoto with the Command+Option keys held down and rebuild the library.
Since only one option can be run at a time start with Option #3, followed by #4 and then #1 as needed.
Fix #2
Using iPhoto Library Manager to Rebuild Your iPhoto Library
1 - download iPhoto Library Manager and launch.
2 - click on the Add Library button, navigate to your Home/Pictures folder and select your iPhoto Library folder.
3 - Now that the library is listed in the left hand pane of iPLM, click on your library and go to the File ➙ Rebuild Library menu option.
4 - In the next window name the new library and select the location you want it to be placed.
5 - Click on the Create button.
Note: This creates a new library based on the LIbraryData.xml file in the library and will recover Events, Albums, keywords, titles and comments. However, books, calendars, cards and slideshows will be lost. The original library will be left untouched for further attempts at fixing the problem or in case the rebuilt library is not satisfactory.
OT

I updated my macbook pro, received may 2011 and now iTunes, iPhoto, and keynote won't work. What should I do?

In May 2011, I received my macbook pro. I updated it a while ago. When I tried to open iTunes it wouldn't work, so I deleted it from my computer and downloaded it again. The same thing happened with iPhoto, but I couldn't find a download for it. And now Keynote isn't working...What should I do?

Here are some suggestions for getting the best results from this site.
Create a user profile that accurately reflects your version of the Mac OS, or include that information in your first message.
Give details of the problem. A statement such as "it doesn't work" conveys no information. If it did work, you wouldn't be here. Instead, you should post something like this: "I did A; I was expecting B; but I got C instead." Include the complete text of any error messages you saw and where you saw them: in an application window, a CrashReporter window, a log, or whatever. Also include the steps you’ve taken yourself, if any, to try to resolve the issue. If the problem is of recent origin, did you make any changes to your setup just before you first noticed it? Is the problem reproducible or intermittent? That is, does it always manifest itself when you take a certain action, or only at unpredictable times?
Before posting, ask yourself whether it’s likely that you are the the only person ever to have had this problem. If not, search the discussions for answered questions similar to yours. If you found any relevant information, but it didn't help, include details.
Post in the appropriate discussion area. Usually that means the area for the type of Mac you're using, if the problem is hardware-related, or for the Mac OS version you’re running, if it’s more software-related. Some other Apple technologies -- including iPhoto, iTunes, and Keynote -- have their own discussion areas.

HT1752 I both one Mac Pro 15" March 2009 and five month ago I have to change the harddrive and put some actional memories, since I have to make the upgrade for Lion IOS. Now the motherboard fails. What should I do or expect from Apple to solve this probl

Hi everyone. I both a Mac Pro 15" in March 2009. Five month ago I was forced to buy by one new hard drive and extent the memory, because I had to make the upgrade (and pay) to install the new Lion operation system. Four days ago the Mother-board fails. To change it will cost a fortune. What should I do or expect from Apple to solve this problem? I am very disappointed because my trust on Apple was destroyed.

I am not sure why you are upset with Apple. Electronics equipment does fail. If the product is out of warranty or you do not have AppleCare there's not much you can do with Apple. Apple will charge you for the repair. Suggest you look for a third party repair store since they are usually less expensive than Apple. Alternatively you can buy one for about $850US and install it yourself. Sorry, but there aren't many choices in this situation.

Im using a Macbook Pro, running a Mac OS 10.6.8, with 400GB free of space and it is running slow. It takes 10 minutes to start up and things like that. What should I do?

Im using a Macbook Pro, running a Mac OS 10.6.8, with 400GB free of space and it is running slow. It takes more than 15 minutes to start up and things like that. I cant seem to do anything as it is so slow. The 'beachball of death' is also present during start up. What should I do? Please help

Try these two steps first.
Get the Original Installation disk and boot the MBP holding down the C key. When you get to the point where you see a menu bar on the top of the display, select UTILITIES. From the drop down menu select DISK UTILITY>FIRST AID. Run verify and repair.
See if there is any improvement.
Try a Safe Boot:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1455
This might indicate that third party applications are an issue.
Ciao.

PLEASE READ EVERYTHING. My macbook pro is with virus. What should I do?

     Hello Guys! Thanks for reading this. First, I ask apologize for any mistakes (I'm not a native speaker neither I live in a country that English is the official language).
     I've used an anti-virus called "virus barrier express" for some time (it never detected any malware) and it doesn't detect any today. I've experienced some problems (such as speed reduction, but i found it normal). My macbook pro is from late 2012 and here the specifications: Processor 2,5 GHz Intel Core i5 Memory 4 GB 1600 MHz DDR3. I have 432,6 GB free memory of 499,25 GB. I still use Mountain Lion. I was pretty sure it had a malware then I installed the Comodo Anti-virus. I was that sure because of three things:
      1- In several unrelated sites some words appeared green and when I passed the cursor over them (most of the time unintentionally) it opened sort of a box or little window. It appeared and "X" at the "right down"(think about the the screen of the mac, it would be near the trash) corner of the box then I clicked in it and the box closed. (these is similar to the "hot words" on windows).
     2- When I load a youtube video (not sure if it has begun yesterday or the day before yesterday) the description, the commentaries and the suggestions (suggested videos) keep going down (I know this sound very weird, but I'll try to explain it: I need to scroll down the page to read the description and every 1-3 seconds I need to scroll down again because the description is a little "downer". This happens "in blocs" (it doesn't scroll down continuously as i do when scroll down, it go "jumping spaces"). P.S.: the video and the search bar don't move). I'm not sure I explained right, any doubts ask me.
     3- Several times when surfing the web new windows (tabs) open with non-related things as "how to work from home and win R$16.000 (this was an aleatory number, and R$ is the real/reais = Brazil coin) and "Gold scheme: how to win the lottery" (this was translated from Portuguese).
     4- The most urgent problem (only appeared after installation of Comodo Anti-virus) My macbook pro is constantly stopping. Example: if I try to open the Library folder (after I explain why I was trying to open it) it stop and I need to force the computer to shut down by pressing the power button and holding it. I can't think in ant other examples right now but since yesterday I have need to force the computer to shut down sometimes. This continue even if quit/exit Comodo anti-virus.
     Continuing the history… I ordered the Comodo to scan my computer and it has found 2 malware at a Library folder and 1 malware at System folder, I've tried to put them in quarantine, but the computer stopped (I don't know if it is the right term: the colored disk appeared and the computer didn't accept any command) and the malware is still there (I tried to put them in quarantine but the computer stopped again). The danger of the threat is low accordingly to Comodo Anti-virus.
     What should I do? If I remember something more I'll add it later.

First, remove Comodo. You don't need it, and it sounds like it is causing a problem.
The other symptoms sound like you have adware installed. Comodo might have detected some components of that adware, or it might not have, but whatever the case, you should NEVER allow any anti-virus software to quarantine or delete files from your computer. See: How to remove infected files.
Regarding the adware, see my Adware Removal Guide.
(Fair disclosure: The Safe Mac is my site, and contains a Donate button, so I may receive compensation for providing links to The Safe Mac. Donations are not required.)

What antivirus protection should I purchase for my MacBook Pro? MacSecurity.app appeared on my desktop, and I downloaded that. Since then, it has said my computer is infected and pop-ups have been appearing.

What antivirus protection should I purchase for my MacBook Pro? MacSecurity.app appeared on my desktop, and I downloaded that. Since then, it has said my computer is infected and pop-ups have been appearing.

You've been infected by a scam trojan. You don't need any anti-virus software on your Mac. See the following about getting rid of the trojan.
Trojan War
If you discover a trojan program is running on your computer then look to the following information for assistance:
1. A recent discussion on the Apple Support Communities: MacDefender Trojan.
2. An excellent site devoted to Mac Malware: Macintosh Virus Guide
3. Another site for removing MacDefende, et.al.: MAC Defender Rogue Anti-Virus analysis and Removal
4. A new removal utility - MacDefenderKiller
Removing strange software can be a task. The following outlines various ways of uninstalling software:
Uninstalling Software: The Basics
Most OS X applications are completely self-contained "packages" that can be uninstalled by simply dragging the application to the Trash. Applications may create preference files that are stored in the /Home/Library/Preferences/ folder. Although they do nothing once you delete the associated application, they do take up some disk space. If you want you can look for them in the above location and delete them, too.
Some applications may install an uninstaller program that can be used to remove the application. In some cases the uninstaller may be part of the application's installer, and is invoked by clicking on a Customize button that will appear during the install process.
Some applications may install components in the /Home/Library/Applications Support/ folder. You can also check there to see if the application has created a folder. You can also delete the folder that's in the Applications Support folder. Again, they don't do anything but take up disk space once the application is trashed.
Some applications may install a Startup item or a Log In item. Startup items are usually installed in the /Library/StartupItems/ folder and less often in the /Home/Library/StartupItems/ folder. Log In Items are set in the Accounts preferences. Open System Preferences, click on the Accounts icon, then click on the LogIn Items tab. Locate the item in the list for the application you want to remove and click on the Delete [-] button to delete it from the list.
Some software use startup daemons or agents that are a new feature of the OS. Look for them in /Library/LaunchAgents/ and /Library/LaunchDaemons/ or in /Home/Library/LaunchAgents/.
If an application installs any other files the best way to track them down is to do a Finder search using the application name or the developer name as the search term. Unfortunately Spotlight will not look in certain folders by default. You can modify Spotlight's behavior or use a third-party search utility, Easy Find, instead. Download Easy Find at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
Some applications install a receipt in the /Library/Receipts/ folder. Usually with the same name as the program or the developer. The item generally has a ".pkg" extension. Be sure you also delete this item as some programs use it to determine if it's already installed.
There are many utilities that can uninstall applications. Note that you must have this software installed before you install software you may need to uninstall. Uninstallers won't work if you install them after the fact. Here is a selection:
AppZapper
Automaton
Hazel
CleanApp
Yank
SuperPop
Uninstaller
Spring Cleaning
Look for them and others at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
For more information visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on removing software and dealing with spyware and malware.
After removing all the components of the software you may have to restart the computer to fully disable the software. This will be the case when removing software that has installed a daemon. After the daemon has been removed you need to restart the computer to stop the daemon. Alternatively, you can kill the daemon process using the Terminal application or Activity Monitor.

Game froze my MacBook Pro, now I have internet problems-What should I do?

Hi,
I recently bought a game to play on my macbook pro, it is Sims Castaway Stories for Mac by Aspyr.
My laptop meets/exceeds the requirements to play it. It only uses little ram and hardrive space.
I installed it a few days ago, my laptop started to get really worked up 30-60 mins into playing the game. My laptop was making A LOT of noise and got pretty hot, I could hear that it was making a lot of effort to ventilate the heat out and to keep my laptop cool.
About 5 hours into playing the game My laptop completely froze and I had to force shut it down and restart.
Everything seemed fine when I restarted it. I played the game the next few days and it ran fine for over 5 hours. However my laptop is still very hot and noisy every time I play the game, and even when I don't have the game open, but just the disc in.
When I have the game running and go on the internet the videos I watch are distorted, images are fragmented + oddly colored, pages load in computer code, and pages won't load occasionally.
I have the same problems with my internet when the game disc is not in my laptop. (disc out= no super hot and hyperventilating laptop problems)
I have even uninstalled the game completely and the internet problems are still there.
I use google chrome, but I have the same problems on safari.
My home windows pc has the same internet problems as well, my second windows pc does not.
Is this a bad internet connection problem or has this game damaged my laptop?
What should I do?

The Internet is sent to you in packets with an error-detection code on them. Ones that come through with errors are rejected. Distortions and problems with display are caused by problems on your computer itself, not by bad data from the Internet.
Most games, including ones tied to the Internet, work your computer very hard. It will get hot. When it starts to get hot, the fans will go on high. Putting the DVD in the drive makes a motor spin it up and that causes heat as well.
Do you have enough RAM memory to support all the things you are doing at once? If not, your Hard drive will be on all the time to do Paging to simulate more RAM memory, and spinning its motor all the time will make your Mac really Hot.
To cool the underside by convection, at least 3/4 inch (20mm) space is needed underneath. A smaller space is not effective.

What should I trust more? FCP waveform, pro waveform/mon, consumer monitor?

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