Which 2.6.x kernel is best to use for a desktop?

Hey Everyone,
Does anyone know which 2.6.x kernel is best to use? Is there a difference between the ARCH, standard, mm, and ck kernels, even as I recompile them with different settings via menuconfig?
I know that 2.6.11 final is out from www.kernel.org, but for the rest...I have no idea where to find the ARCH kernel, it's not in the repositories, only mm appears to be

There is no best kernel, it depends on what you want. As for what the differences are between those different patchsets, just read all about them on their site.
Arch uses the -as, a security fixes only patchset. ck uses -as as base and has some other things (different cpu and io schedulers for instance). -mm if the main testbed for kernel changes and the least stable one. If you're lazy you should simply use Arch's default kernel and not bother about it. If you want your custom kernel then just pick one and use it.

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Which register cleaner or tune up software is the best to use for windows vista,windows 7 and windows 8.1 as professional?

hi,
I like to know wich register cleaner or tune up software is the best to use for windows vista- windows7- and windows 8.1.
I like to know the proffesional version of it which I can use for my clients every where unlimitted to clean unwanted keys of registry and improve performance.(specialy in Dutch language).
thanks
johan
h.david

I second what Kate Li said. There's no need for a registry cleaner! Don't do it! I run Windows systems for years and they keep running as light and fast as when they're new.
What I *do* recommend is regularly reviewing the list of programs set to run in the background using a tool to show you what starts in various ways called Autoruns, which can be found here:
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb963902.aspx
This tool can be used to disable things you don't need.
-Noel
Detailed how-to in my eBooks:
Configure The Windows 7 "To Work" Options
Configure The Windows 8 "To Work" Options

Which kernel module should I use for Marvell Yukon 88E8001?

Which kernel module should I use for Marvell Yukon 88E8001?
a. sky2
b. skge
c. sk98lin

I found this in the kernel''s /driver/net/Kconfig:
config SKGE
tristate "New SysKonnect GigaEthernet support"
depends on PCI
select CRC32
---help---
This driver support the Marvell Yukon or SysKonnect SK-98xx/SK-95xx
and related Gigabit Ethernet adapters. It is a new smaller driver
with better performance and more complete ethtool support.
It does not support the link failover and network management
features that "portable" vendor supplied sk98lin driver does.
This driver supports adapters based on the original Yukon chipset:
Marvell 88E8001, Belkin F5D5005, CNet GigaCard, DLink DGE-530T,
Linksys EG1032/EG1064, 3Com 3C940/3C940B, SysKonnect SK-9871/9872.
It does not support the newer Yukon2 chipset: a separate driver,
sky2, is provided for Yukon2-based adapters.
To compile this driver as a module, choose M here: the module
will be called skge. This is recommended.
Looks like your module is "skge"

What varaible is best to use for current fiscal year.

Hello all,
I have few restricted key figures which need to be reported as "for current fiscal year" so which ios the best variable we can use for that.In the filter area I have fiscal year variant and comp code do I have to give users the input ready for fiscal year?
Also then i need comparison between current and previous year for same RKF so I plan to offset the varaible by "-1" .
Thanks

It works for me Bhanu. Last I used that it gave me errors so was not sure.
for YTD i dont see any variable in fiscal year am I looking at wrong place.
can you suggest something
Thanks

Which color mode in psd cs4 is best to use for 2-color project, grayscale or cmyk?

The project is a photo montage. It was 4-color, now must become 2 colors.
So I've changed each of the original 4-color photos (jpg and eps) into separate psd files (as grayscale/duotone/montage-and assigned it One pantone color)
In a new psd "montage" file, I plan to place each photo on its own layer, adjust tints, transparency, etc, to create one new montage/flattened.
I'm not sure which color mode is best when setting up this new file, CMYK or grayscale?
Once the PS doc is done, the job will be saved as a PDF for 2-color printing.
I want to insure the 2 pantone colors separate properly at press.
any advise how how to best achieve this?

Yes it is possible in InDesign. You will have to judge whether you feel more proficient in doing something new in Photoshop or in InDesign.
If you restrict this to being done in Photoshop, you just need to change the color mode to duotone and export the PDF file with the 'high quality print' profile or similar. Some other PDF settings may convert your duotone to a regular CMYK or RGB image.

Which image file type is best to use for iTunes artwork?

I have quite a few songs in my library which do not have any official artwork available for them, so I have used other images and altered them in Photoshop by adjusting colours and creating transparent backgrounds.
Re: transparent backgrounds, I saved the manipulated image as a PNG file and sure enough the artwork displayed with a transparent background in Coverflow, which of course looks great.
But after shutting down my machine and restarting it and iTunes, the artwork with the backgrounds which I thought I had edited reverts to having a solid background.
Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening?

Yes it is possible in InDesign. You will have to judge whether you feel more proficient in doing something new in Photoshop or in InDesign.
If you restrict this to being done in Photoshop, you just need to change the color mode to duotone and export the PDF file with the 'high quality print' profile or similar. Some other PDF settings may convert your duotone to a regular CMYK or RGB image.

Which version of BPEL Process Manager should I use for Windows 7

As the one which I downloaded doesn't work.
[http://www.oracle.com/technology/software/products/ias/bpel/index.html |Windows |Download      soa_windows_x86_bpel_101310.zip (356,697,295 bytes) ]
I have installed SOA Suite,
SOA Suite (11.1.1.2.0)
More Info
Generic : 1.7 GB
DownloadDisk1
Works on all platforms
AIX5L: 1.7 MB
DownloadDisk1
Included:
* BPEL Process Manager
* Human Workflow
* Business Rules
* Business Activity Monitoring
* Mediator
* B2B
* Web Services Manager
* User Messaging Service
* Enterprise Manager Fusion Middleware Control
     Required Additional Software:
* WebLogic Server
* Repository Creation Utility
* Oracle Database
* JDeveloper
* Patch Scripts
Optional Software:
* B2B Document Editor
* Identity Management
* Access Manager
* Service Registry
* SSO Metadata Repository Creation Assistant
* Web Tier Utilities
     SOA Suite (11.1.1.3.0)
Business Process Management (11.1.1.3.0)
More Info
Generic : 1.9 GB
DownloadDisk1
Works on all platforms
Error of log is as follows,
Checking installer requirements...
Checking operating system version: must be 5.0, 5.1 or 5.2. Actual 6.1
Failed <<<<
I fear that I may need to remove Windows 7!!:(
Any pointers?
Thank you for your help.
Edited by: user9284468 on 28-May-2010 06:45

Thanks man, I was wondering that I can't install and run BPEL Process manager on windows 7 but now i have started hoping!:)
I am getting this error right at first stage, that when you click on setup.exe I get the message which I pasted in my original message.
I am using bpel process manager for windows 10.1.3.1.0 and SOA Suite 11g(baseline 11.1.2.0) + patch set 11.1.3.0
Please let me know how i can proceed with installation.
Thank you.

What's best to use for 10G Trunk Cabling

We are going to purchase a WS-C3850-12S-E fiber switch and trunk it to a WS-C3850-24T-E over 10G module add-ons. The vendors are throwing out different options for cabling which is making me double guess myself.
Option 1: 1 SFP+ Active Optical Cable (cable with SFP+'s built in)
Option 2: 1 SFP+ Active Twinaxial Cable (cable with SFP+'s built in)
Option 3: 1 SFP+ Passive Twinaxial Cable (cable with SFP+'s built in)
Option 4: 2 10G SFP+ modules with separate optical cable
We do not run any other active fiber cabling so I think I can eliminate those options, Option 4 is the most expensive but is typically what I do when trunking with 1G fiber.

We are going to purchase a WS-C3850-12S-E fiber switch and trunk it to a WS-C3850-24T-E over 10G module add-ons.
We do not run any other active fiber cabling so I think I can eliminate those options, Option 4 is the most expensive but is typically what I do when trunking with 1G fiber.
The statement in BLUE and the statement in GREEN contradict themselves.
Whether or not you want 1 Gbps or 10 Gbps, fibre is the way to go. What is missing is the distance between the two switches as long-haul fibre optic modules are double the price of a short-haul fibre optic modules.
Another thing missing is the "thickness" of the cable. A lot of fibre optic installers will try to give the cheapest option (if you don't know what you're asking for) so this means OM1 for short-haul or OS1 for long-haul.
Personally, I would NOT touch a fibre link of OM1 or OS1 category. For long-haul, it's got to be OS2 or none at all. For short-haul fibre optics, it's OM4 for future-proofing (10- or 40 Gbps).

Which ports on a macbook pro can be used for start-up disks?

I'm looking to buy a mac book pro, I'd like to know which ports can be used as an external startup disk, and how would tthe boot speed compare?
Firewire would seem as if it should boot twice as fast as an external usb2, but can firewire be used as a startup? Can Thunderbolt be used as a startup disk? I havent seen any devices with that interface, but that doesnt mean there cant be, or aren't curently...Any help? Thanks in advance
Jim

Just edited the question to reflect what I meant I thought I recalled creating a bootable SD card for my 13" MBP but couldn't be sure. I've tried so many different things and I'm terrible at documenting what I've done. After nearly 20 years in the tech biz you'd think I'd have learned.

Which of these two external drives shoud I use for recording?

I have a 250G Lacie d2 Hard Drive Extreme and a Seagate 300 Gig Hard drive. Both drives are Firewire and USB 2.0. I got one for recording and another for backup. Which one would you guys say is better for recording/saving audio? Thanks.

Both drives are worthy contenders. I've owned 4 LaCie drives over the past 3 years. One drive died completely, and anothers power supply tanked. But over all, they've been good drives.
Seagate has a strong reputation in audio circles, but I've never bought one.
If one is used as your main drive, and the other is used as a back-up, as long as you are always backing up, I suppose it really doesn't matter which is which, you know?

What's the best setup / use for Thunderbolt + SSD iMac ?

Hi!
I'm testing one of the new 27" iMacs (i7, 16gb ram, SSD, 2tb internal HD, external Promise Thunderbolt disk)
I have until Monday to decide to keep it or return it and I'm doing this test to see if it would make a good second computer for our editing (primary is 8 core MacPro).
I can either afford this 27" iMac with a Promise Thunderbolt disk OR anoher MacPro with 4 internal disks.
Can someone please share with me how I would get max performance out of the iMac-setup?
Here's what I THINK prior to adding the Thunderbolt disk:
Internal SSD => Lion + apps
Internal HD => imported videofiles, scratchdisk, cache etc. and export disk
But then......... how should the situation change when adding the Thunderbolt drive ?
Is the Thunderbolt so fast, that all video data should be placed there or would I benefit from placing SOME part on the internal HD, and OTHER parts on the external Thunderbolt ?
Or even more complex ........ should I use all three disks (also the SSD) for different parts of the video / process and if so, what's your thoughts?
Or......... would you go for yet another 8 core Macpro without SSD and Thunderbolt??
Thank you for the inputs on this

klp29 wrote:
Or even more complex ........ should I use all three disks (also the SSD) for different parts of the video / process and if so, what's your thoughts?
Or......... would you go for yet another 8 core Macpro without SSD and Thunderbolt??
Are you only using one Thunderbolt disk? If so, IMHO, you're wasting the beauty of TBolt. To make much better use of it will cost a pretty penny, but you end up with a 4, 6, or 8-disk external RAID enclosure. In that, you stuff a bunch of drives and create however many RAID volumes you want. Preferably a couple of separate RAID0 volumes for the speed (raw data on one of them, scratch space on another, backing the raw data up elsewhere).
However, one TBolt disk is really a waste.
Were I buying a Mac right now, I'd get the following:
6-core 3.3GHz Mac Pro
aftermarket SSD (to hell with Apple's pricing)
aftermarket RAM (see above paranthetic)
2 10k WD SATA drives for an internal software-only RAID0 array for scratch
aftermarket ESATA PCIe card
ESATA enclosures with drives
That last bullet is "up to you" bit. You can do 2 external enclosures with RAID0, RAID1, whatever works for storage and speed. And it can be built piece-meal as you need to expand.
Why did I pick the 6-core vs. one of the 2 x 4-core machines? Horsepower, pure and simple. Those 3.3GHz 6-core chips are quick little bastards (compared to the rest of the Mac Pro line) and you really want raw number crunching power vs. a bzillion cores. Put the apps and OS on the SSD. Scratch space on the internal 10K drives. Then figure out how to split the storage up with your external enclosures.
When you're ready, grab a Quadro 4K card and enhance your video editing speed substantially.
jas

Which CAPS 6 Project Type is best for integration purposes?

Which CAPS 6 Project Type is best for integration purposes?
CAPS 6 is the company standard for integrating applications so I'm looking to get started converting XML from one format to another.
Which project type is best to use for this scenario?
Thanks in advance.

As John suggested you should properly post this question in an Visual Studio forum:
https://social.msdn.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/home?forum=visualstudiogeneral&filter=alltypes&sort=lastpostdesc
Visual C++, C#, VB.Net are all running on the DOT.NET enviroment and are different languages that have no difference in functionality.
C and C++ does not run on the DOT.NET platform, but directly on the CPU.
C# does also deals with processes and threads, and you can load DLL's at runtime/compile time if you want.
C# also have console applications.
http://technicaltrix.blogspot.dk/

Best possible setup for the future

I am going to ask a generalized broad question. First some background, then I would appreciate your input.
Used mac desktops up until now. Primarily storage reasons. I am sending my daughter off to college this fall and decided to get our first laptop, nice zippy macpro 15". I have to say I'm very happy stealing this laptop from my daughter. I thought I would not want to do so much picture processing on such a limited screen, as I'm used to two landscape monitors.
The database for Aperture right now is almost 400 gigs. I used managed files. I initially thought about upgrading my old desktops to a new super powerful desktop in the next year of so, as I'm still using powermac PCs.
I wasn't going to consider a laptop as a serious contender for primarily the storage issue.
Enter thunderbolt.
Now I'm scratching my head and wondering about the potential to utilize this seemingly potential I/O as a game changer to the deal.
#1 - I'm not in a hurry. Time is on my side.
#2 - in the past, desktop Vs laptop was a no brainer to me. That gap has narrow now. The primary issue was screen space and storage, mostly storage/speed really.
#3 - speed gap from laptop to desktop is nominal at best from what I can tell, am I correct in seeing this now as not as clear an advantage of a desktop?
#4 - if I'm understanding thunderbolt right (and since time is on my side), I could potentially have a laptop with some lug around peripherals that would nearly make this like a desktop on the go. Sit down and plug into multiple monitors in a flash with RAID extensions, who knows what. Maybe then grab a raid cube and run with it to a place and essentially take my "desktop" environment with me. Am I thinking straight here or being a bit to idealistic? Seems like that it where Apple/intel is headed with this
#5 - managed Vs referenced. I've read a little about this debate and approach. I've only gone with managed and probably will do so, but in light of what I've said above, any comments?
#6 - backup. Always the biggie for me. backup. I love redundancy. I have time machine this and that thrown around in duplicity, copy over mirror drives here and there, and even put an extra drive or two in a neighbor's closet x2 a year just as an offsite backup in case of catastrophic loss like fire/theft. I'm not crazy over such a fragmented multiple approach, but haven't found what I consider a good alternative just yet to something simple, straightforward, and trustworthy. I'm hoping thunderbolt might lend a whole new ability to move quicker through backup scenarios. Thoughts? What are your approaches when you have a life's work of digital pics and videos and just can't stand the thought of ever ever losing them?
#7 - I would love to have an offsite online backup option for everything, seems that would solve so much of my backup stuff. But as a home user that is seriously into digital whatever, I haven't seem to run across something good as I've been limited to slow upload speeds. Until now. Enter FiOs. I can now(supposedly) do 32 up and down on the Fios, the fastest I think I will be able to get without going to a major business type connection. Does anyone have any knowledge of anything that would be a solid online backup option for 2TB or more of data on a revolving basis? I want to overshoot a bit as I seem to be picking up memory usage quickly with shooting in all RAW now and using higher density HD video. Opinions?
Having said all that, I hope what is coming across is that I'm looking at basically going from a guy who had an old powermac and found he is good at video, photos, and all things fun like that. Expanding into business sides of it slowly, seeming to have good luck, sending a daughter off to college introduced a surprising element to me of a powerful laptop, and now I'm grappling with onsite and offisite storage. Future expansion. thunderbolt potential.
I would appreciate some of you who have much more seasoned interactions with higher end equipment and can appreciate some of the details, if you could give some insight into what might work, might not, how to posture myself the best for future expansion and capabilities, etc. I'm not too worried about price. Obviously I'm a home user, so I don't have a corporate account. But dropping 10 - 20 grand in the next 2 or so years wouldn't be unreasonable if it were to posture me for the best potential use for many years.
Thanks,
Robert

TexasMan_Luvs_Hismac wrote:
The database for Aperture right now is almost 400 gigs. I used managed files. I initially thought about upgrading my old desktops to a new super powerful desktop in the next year of so, as I'm still using powermac PCs. I wasn't going to consider a laptop as a serious contender for primarily the storage issue.
#3: At the moment (until MPs are upgraded) the top new MBPs are stronger Aperture boxes than many Mac Pros are. IMO the first true desktop replacement (DTR) laptops. Stick to the stronger graphics options and I very, very strongly recommend the anti-glare display choice.
#5: Managed files are IMO not the way to go for many reasons, and certainly not on a laptop. I recommend using a Referenced-Masters-Library on the internal drive with Preview size set to be the size of your laptop display. Have two large external drives: one for Masters and Vaults and one for offsite backup of the other external.
So #6: Backup is easy, just add more off site drives for more redundancy and change them out frequently (at least weekly or every significant project). For images work mirrors tend to be a waste of drive space. Far more worthy is more frequent real offsite backup. Note that simple changeout of a 2-TB drive to the trunk of the car provides real backup against fire, theft and drive failure.
Originals should be backed up before import into Aperture or any other app anyway. A Managed-Masters-Library not only gets itself ridiculously large, having Masters in Vaults just makes Vaults huge and Vault backups slower, and therefore less likely to be done as frequently.
#4: Yes. Tbt may have some growing pains but I think your insight is accurate. However even without Thunderbolt using a Referenced-Masters-Library with Masters accessed over FW800 i/o is ok. Key is that the Library lives on an internal drive that is kept underfilled, which is easy once you use a Referenced-Masters-Library with Masters on external drives.
Personally I just ordered a 17" 2011 MBP with SSD and am replacing the optical drive with a 750 GB 7200 rpm OWC drive. The Referenced-Masters-Library will live on the SSD while Masters will initially live on the OWC drive then later get relocated to external archive drives.
#1 - I'm not in a hurry. Time is on my side.
Since you are using a Powermac now, I respectfully disagree. Life is short: get thee to a Sandy Bridge MBP asap This new MBP is literally what mobile Aperture users like me have been waiting for since v1.
HTH
-Allen Wicks

Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Best codec to use for NTSC

I have a 5 minute project that has been in and out of color as well as after effects and was wondering what codec setting would be the best to use for DVD. I'm only putting it through iDVD, just wanted to make sure that whatever I use doesn't take away from the quality, etc...
would it be fine just to use a straight export to a Quicktime movie using the project settings?
thanks everyone.

would it be fine just to use a straight export to a Quicktime movie using the project settings?
Yes. Do this.
DVD video always uses MPEG 2 video files as it's basis and iDVD does the encoding internally for you anyway. It is aimed at consumer users and intended to be foolproof.
Once you make the step up to DVD Studio Pro, then you will have to pay attention to the format. But there are DVD presets in Compressor that make it a relatively simple and painless procedure.

Which 2.6.x kernel is best to use for a desktop?

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