Wireless APs going down randomly

Hi All
We have a situation where wireless access points are just going down randomly on our network. The situation is as follows:
We have 2 Cisco 5508 WLCs (licensed for 250 APs each, with more licenses en-route), both running software version 7.2.103.0. Then we have a large-ish number (±300) of Cisco AIR-CAP3502I-E-K9 APs connecting to these two controllers. The APs are either connected to Cisco WS-C2960S switches, or in "older" areas of the network they are connected to WS-C2950 switches. We do not have PoE switches installed yet, so all APs are powered by power injectors (AIR-PWRINJ4=).
Anyhat, all the access points are in FlexConnect (previously HREAP) mode, and they all connect via trunk ports to the switches in order to get the VLAN per SSID working. Both controllers are in the same mobility group, and both are in the DNS as "cisco-capwap-controller" as they are load balancing. The APs are installed about 25m apart in most areas. There is one installation where two APs are about 10m apart, but this is due to the shape of the building in which they are installed. We have no autonomous APs deployed at all...
The problem is that some access points work for about a day, and then they just disassociate with whichever controller they were associated to, and then they just fall off the network completely. Both WLCs, the NCS, and the network monitoring system (WhatsUp Gold) show the affected APs as physically unreachable. Looking at the trunk port on the switch, it shows that the port is up and the line protocol is up, input rate is 0 bits/sec, and output rate is up to 70,000bits/sec. There are no input or output errors on the switch port. Here is the output from one such switch port:
FastEthernet0/19 is up, line protocol is up (connected)
  Hardware is Fast Ethernet, address is dc7b.9439.da13 (bia dc7b.9439.da13)
  Description: Link to NC_K22-AP1
  MTU 1500 bytes, BW 100000 Kbit, DLY 100 usec,
     reliability 255/255, txload 1/255, rxload 1/255
  Encapsulation ARPA, loopback not set
  Keepalive set (10 sec)
  Full-duplex, 100Mb/s, media type is 10/100BaseTX
  input flow-control is off, output flow-control is unsupported
  ARP type: ARPA, ARP Timeout 04:00:00
  Last input 00:50:20, output 00:00:00, output hang never
  Last clearing of "show interface" counters never
  Input queue: 0/75/0/0 (size/max/drops/flushes); Total output drops: 0
  Queueing strategy: fifo
  Output queue: 0/40 (size/max)
  5 minute input rate 0 bits/sec, 0 packets/sec
  5 minute output rate 71000 bits/sec, 91 packets/sec
     977358 packets input, 80661413 bytes, 0 no buffer
     Received 29925 broadcasts (16038 multicasts)
     0 runts, 0 giants, 0 throttles
     0 input errors, 0 CRC, 0 frame, 0 overrun, 0 ignored
     0 watchdog, 16038 multicast, 0 pause input
     0 input packets with dribble condition detected
     37567889 packets output, 3624164243 bytes, 0 underruns
     0 output errors, 0 collisions, 1 interface resets
     0 babbles, 0 late collision, 0 deferred
     0 lost carrier, 0 no carrier, 0 PAUSE output
     0 output buffer failures, 0 output buffers swapped out
Connecting a console cable to an affected AP is fruitless, as the AP appears to be unresponsive while it is "down". Rebooting the AP, then connecting a console cable works, but then you've lost your syslogs. Looking at the Ethernet interface on the AP, it appears as if the interface is picking up a lot of errors, especially CRC errors, which would indicate a physical cable problem.
I got our cabling contractor out to do a cable test again, and it passes every time. We have them test both the Systimax and the Molex cable installations of affected APs, and all is OK. They use a Fluke MicroScanner² cable tester which certifies the Cat 6 cable from patch lead to flylead. No problems there, and I trust that the cable is 100% as tested.
So I swap the power injector of an affected AP (let's call it AP A) with an AP that is not affected by this (let's call this one AP B), and AP A goes down again after a day, or sometimes only a couple of hours. AP B remains operational as usual. If I swap AP A out with a new AP (AP C), then AP C starts showing the same symptoms after about a day, and then it also just goes down. When "suspect" AP A is installed somewhere else, then it works and stays operational for, well, 58 days now. Changing the switch/switch port also makes no difference.
This happens to one of the APs that are part of the "10m apart deployment", but it also happens to another AP that is completely on its own in a building far away from any other wireless source, so I cannot think that this could be the problem. I happens to an AP that is less than 100m away from its closest WLC, and it happens to an AP that is more than 350km away from its closest controller. All the other APs deployed in our remote campus (350km fibre link) are 100% OK. It happens to APs connected to the older WS-C2950 switches as well as the brand new WS-C2960S switches.
I am at wits end with this one. Where could the problem be? I trust the "Big Green" company that does our cable installations, and I trust the equipment they use. I also trust both Systimax and Molex to be very good products. And I do trust Cisco, as this is the only network equipment we deploy.
Where to from here?
Regards
Connie

This issue has now been resolved. Details can be found here: http://www.cisco.com/en/US/partner/ts/fn/635/fn63537.html.
Here is the short version:
Problem Description:
Calibration between DRAM and processor on AIR-CAP350x and AIR-LAP126x results in Access Points (APs) failing to boot properly. One symptom includes a white LED and no console output.
Background:
The root cause is the DDR memory calibration process that was performed on the Access Points (APs) at the time of manufacture. The fix recalibrates the existing memory hardware, so it will operate more reliably.
Workaround/Solution:
The fix for this issue is now publicly available. Go to www.cisco.com to obtain Access Point (AP) IOS code version: 15.2(2)JA or later and/or WLC software version: 7.0.235.3 (or later 7.0 release), 7.2.111.3 (or later 7.2 release) or 7.3.101.0 (or later 7.3 release).
As of June 2012, new AP3500 and AP1260 products with version ID (VID) V02 are free of this issue.

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    Check to see if you've any panic logs -> http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2546.
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  • TS1702 My iPod apps, even the apps provided by apple are shutting down randomly. I can access them but they shut down shortly after I do so. What's wrong and how can I fix it?

    My iPod fourth genereation is closing apps down randomly shortly after I open them. Even the apps that were provided by apple won't stay open long. I've tried everything they've suggested and nothing has worked. What's wrong with my iPod and how can I fix it? I even reset the entire thing to factory settings and it did nothing.
    Also, my back camera won't work most of the time and when it does red scratchy lines appear all over the screen and the picture won't come out clear.

    I think I fixed the apps, though.
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    *Lower your brightness
    *Turn off "Push" on notifications and mail and turn on "Manual"
    *Return to your home screen and then double click twice and tap and hold one of the apps you've previously opened, when they jiggle tap the red on each app until fully erased.
    *Don't use your ipod while it is charging, allow at least a 10 minute charge (fully charged) before using it again.
    See if this helps(: ... I still have no answer bout the camera issue. I might be going to apple soon so we will see then.

  • MacBookAir is shutting down randomly

    I recently downloaded Maverick, and then my computer began shutting down randomly. I cannot even get 5 minutes on it. Also, at the time of writing, it has been plugged in for 2.5 hours, and has only charged from 82% to 93%. This was sufficient timing for a full recharge from 1% 5 days ago. I have tried the resetting the SMC (and all the steps recommended before it, but there is still no change. I've included a screen shot of my Power data. Anyone have any next steps for me? My MBA is less than 2 years old.
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    Try my steps.
    What to do if your Mac shuts off randomly
    First, try plugging in your Mac to allow the battery to charge. If it is not a portable Apple computer, skip this step. Wait a few minutes, and then try powering on the computer.
    Next, try resetting your SMC.
    Resetting the SMC of an Intel-based portable Mac with a battery you should not remove on your own
    Note: This will not delete any data.
    The SMC is responsible for controlling various system functions. None of your data will be deleted by resetting the SMC.
    Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
    Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
    Plug in the MagSafe power adapter into a power source and then connect it to your Mac if you have not already done so.
    On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift (⇧), Control (⌃), and Option (⌥) keys and the Power Button at the same time.
    Release the (left side) Shift (⇧), Control (⌃), and Option (⌥) keys and the Power Button at the same time.
    Then, try resetting your PRAM.
    Resetting the NVRAM/PRAM
    Note: This will not delete any data.
    The NVRAM/PRAM stores information such as speaker volume, screen resolution, startup disk selection, and recent kernel panic information (if any). You should reset the NVRAM/PRAM if you experience issues relating to these functions.
    Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
    Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
    Turn on the computer by pressing the Power Button.
    On the built-in keyboard, press and hold the Command (⌘), Option (⌥), P, and R keys before the gray screen appears.
    Continue to hold down the keys until the computer restarts and you hear the startup chime for the second time.
    Release the keys on the built-in keyboard.
    Then, try repairing the disk permissions using Disk Utility.
    Repairing a disk’s permissions using Disk Utility on the Recovery HD.
    Note: This should not delete any information or files from the disk.
    Repairing a disk's permissions can help solve various file-related issues.
    To begin, make sure your external disk that you are repairing is connected to the computer. If you are repairing an internal disk, skip this step.
    Make sure the computer is powered off before continuing.
    Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
    Press and hold both the R and Command (⌘) keys on the keyboard until the Recovery partition loads. If this does not work, shut down the computer, press the Power Button to turn on the computer, and then hold in the Alt (⌥) button immediately after you press the power button. Then, select the Recovery HD partition to boot up in the Recovery HD partition.
    Select Disk Utility.
    Once you are in the Disk Utility app, select the external drive from the sidebar on the left.
    Then, choose the Repair Disk Permissions button on the right.
    If this does not solve your issues, you may have no choice but to reformat the drive using Disk Utility.
    If that does not work, try reinstalling OS X but not erasing.
    Reinstall OS X
    Note: This will not erase any data on the disk. However, it is highly recommended that you create a backup before continuing.
    Reinstalling OS X can solve various problems such as corrupt system files.
    Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
    Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
    Plug in the MagSafe power adapter into a power source and then connect it to your Mac if you have not already done so.
    Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
    Press and hold both the R and Command (⌘) keys on the keyboard until the Recovery partition loads.
    Select Reinstall OS X and then choose Continue.
    Follow the instructions.
    Then, try erasing and reinstalling OS X.
    Erase and Reinstall OS X
    Note: This will delete all data on the disk. Back up important files before continuing.
    Erasing and then reinstalling OS X can give you a fresh start, making your computer exactly as it was whenever you received it from Apple. This can solve various problems such as corrupt system files.
    Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
    Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
    Plug in the MagSafe power adapter into a power source and then connect it to your Mac if you have not already done so.
    Press the Power Button to turn on the computer.
    Press and hold both the R and Command (⌘) keys on the keyboard until the Recovery partition loads. If this does not work, shut down the computer, press the Power Button to turn on the computer, and then hold in the Alt (⌥) button immediately after you press the power button. Then, select the Recovery HD partition to boot up in the Recovery HD partition.
    Select Disk Utility and then choose Continue.
    Select your startup disk (Macintosh HD by default) from the left.
    Select the Erase tab.
    Choose the Format pop-up menu and choose Mac OS Extended (Journaled), enter a name for your disk, and then click Erase.
    After the disk is erased, choose Disk Utility > Quit Disk Utility.
    Select Reinstall OS X and then choose Continue.
    Follow the instructions.
    I hope I helped.
    Austin

  • IP over FireWire keeps going down

    I use IP over FireWire with static IP addresses to sync two Macs every day. Every since upgrading to Leopard, that Mac that runs the sync keeps losing its IP over FireWire connection - it looks OK in the Network prefs pane, but won't mount the other machine's drive over AFP until I reboot.
    Any idea what might be going on?

    I use something completely different than 192.x.x.x. I use 10.10.0.x. I don't really see how this could have anything to do with anything if it works perfectly and then stops working. I could understand if it doesn't work at all, so maybe you can explain the logic behind this then I could configure things differently in an attempt to affect a fix.
    As for the adapters (and drivers) in question, there are ~7 devices accessing the guest network. They are all using a variety of chipsets, 1 is ralink, 1 is broadcom, 1 is atheros, 1 is realtek, 1 is an iPad, whatever that uses and then there's a roku box and 1 android phone.
    As I mentioned, they work perfectly when they work - when the guest network goes down nothing can connect to it so I don't think it can be the driver. If it were to be a driver issue then it wouldn't work properly from the getgo, or 1 or 2 devices with bad drivers would fault, but in this case it's all of them.
    Oddly enough, my wireless stuff and lan is never affected. just the guest network but I have to reboot every time the issue crops up to fix it.
    Any help would be appreciated as I'd really rather not have to go spend money on something else.
    Is there anyone currently replying to this that uses their GN long term? If not could you please try? By long term I mean constantly use it and let me know if it goes down eventually. I'd really like to figure this out.

  • My iPhone is about 6 months old now and I would say I don't use it that much. Yet for the last month or so the battery life has been going down and today after having charged it to 100% this morning, it was at 5% at 4 pm this aft. help!!

    my iPhone is about 6 months old now and I would say I don't use it that much. Yet for the last month or so the battery life has been going down and today after having charged it to 100% this morning, it was at 5% at 4 pm this aft. help!!

    Ok Fellas, let me give you a clue:  Games, particularly those that make heavy use of graphics and sound are notoriously power hungry.  In fact, when I was in the Navy many years ago, the folks working on the NTDS (Navy Tactical Data System)  computers used a version of Space Invaders to load test the AN/UYK-43 computers.
    I have also noticed that all of my laptops (I have a brand new Toshiba dual core, an older Toshiba single core, plus 2 Dell dual core machines) have significantly shorter battery life when I play Company of Heroes than when I am just reading e-mail or surfing the 'Net.  I have also noticed the same behavior when I play games on my 4th gen Touch and my iPhone 4.
    The fact is, iOS 5 did make some major improvements as well as adding some nice functionality like iMessage, wireless synch, and such, but the down side is that depending on how you use the device battery life can be shorter that what you may have experienced with pervious versions of iOS.  Its just the nature of the beast...
    We now return you to our regularly scheduled programming.....
    Oh John....  Oh Marsha.....

  • HT4199 Had problems with my broadband going down at weekend, since it came back on unable to join wifi BT say it is because my wifi settings are missing on my iPad can anyone tell me where to find seething details IP address etc

    Had problems with my broadband going down at weekend, since it came back on unable to join wifi BT say it is because my wifi settings are missing on my iPad can anyone tell me where to find seething details IP address etc

    Some things to try first:
    1. Turn Off your iPad. Then turn Off (disconnect power cord for 30 seconds or longer) the wireless router & then back On. Now boot your iPad. Hopefully it will see the WiFi.
    2. Go to Settings>Wi-Fi and turn Off. Then while at Settings>Wi-Fi, turn back On and chose a Network.
    3. Change the channel on your wireless router (Auto or Channel 6 is best). Instructions at http://macintoshhowto.com/advanced/how-to-get-a-good-range-on-your-wireless-netw ork.html
    4. Go into your router security settings and change from WEP to WPA with AES.
    5.  Renew IP Address: (especially if you are drooping internet connection)
        •    Launch Settings app
        •    Tap on Wi-Fi
        •    Tap on the blue arrow of the Wi-Fi network that you connect to from the list
        •    In the window that opens, tap on the Renew Lease button
    6. Potential Quick Fixes When Your iPad Won’t Connect to Your Wifi Network
    http://ipadinsight.com/ipad-tips-tricks/potential-quick-fixes-when-your-ipad-won t-connect-to-your-wifi-network/
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Fix WiFi Issue for iOS 7
    http://ipadnerds.com/fix-wifi-issue-ios-7/
    iOS 6 Wifi Problems/Fixes
    Wi-Fi Fix for iOS 6
    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4823738?tstart=240
    How To: Workaround iPad Wi-Fi Issues
    http://www.theipadfan.com/workaround-ipad-wifi-issues/
    Another Fix For iOS 6 WiFi Problems
    http://tabletcrunch.com/2012/10/27/fix-ios-6-wifi-problems-ssid/
    Wifi Doesn't Connect After Waking From Sleep - Sometimes increasing screen brightness prevents the failure to reconnect after waking from sleep. According to Apple, “If brightness is at lowest level, increase it by moving the slider to the right and set auto brightness to off.”
    Fix For iOS 6 WiFi Problems?
    http://tabletcrunch.com/2012/09/27/fix-ios-6-wifi-problems/
    Did iOS 6 Screw Your Wi-Fi? Here’s How to Fix It
    http://gizmodo.com/5944761/does-ios-6-have-a-wi+fi-bug
    How To Fix Wi-Fi Connectivity Issue After Upgrading To iOS 6
    http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/09/fix-wi-fi-connectivity-issue-after-upgrading- to-ios-6.html
    iOS 6 iPad 3 wi-fi "connection fix" for netgear router
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsWS4ha-dn0
    Apple's iOS 6 Wi-Fi problems
    http://www.zdnet.com/apples-ios-6-wi-fi-problems-linger-on-7000004799/
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    iPad: Issues connecting to Wi-Fi networks
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3304
    How to Boost Your Wi-Fi Signal
    http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/a/How-To-Boost-Your-Wi-Fi-Signal.h Mt
    Troubleshooting a Weak Wi-Fi Signal
    http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/a/Troubleshooting-A-Weak-Wi-Fi-Sig nal.htm
    How to Fix a Poor Wi-Fi Signal on Your iPad
    http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/a/How-To-Fix-A-Poor-Wi-Fi-Signal-O n-Your-iPad.htm
    iOS Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections  http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1398
    iPad: Issues connecting to Wi-Fi networks  http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3304
    WiFi Connecting/Troubleshooting http://www.apple.com/support/ipad/wifi/
    How to Fix: My iPad Won't Connect to WiFi
    http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/ss/How-To-Fix-My-Ipad-Wont-Connect -To-Wi-Fi.htm
    iOS: Connecting to the Internet http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1695
    iOS: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points  http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4199
    How to Quickly Fix iPad 3 Wi-Fi Reception Problems
    http://osxdaily.com/2012/03/21/fix-new-ipad-3-wi-fi-reception-problems/
    iPad Wi-Fi Problems: Comprehensive List of Fixes
    http://appletoolbox.com/2010/04/ipad-wi-fi-problems-comprehensive-list-of-fixes/
    Connect iPad to Wi-Fi (with troubleshooting info)
    http://thehowto.wikidot.com/wifi-connect-ipad
    10 Ways to Boost Your Wireless Signal
    http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2372811,00.asp
    Fix iPad Wifi Connection and Signal Issues  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwWtIG5jUxE
    Fix Slow WiFi Issue https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2398063?start=60&tstart=0
    How To Fix iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch Wi-Fi Connectivity Issue http://tinyurl.com/7nvxbmz
    Unable to Connect After iOS Update - saw this solution on another post.
    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4010130
    Note - When troubleshooting wifi connection problems, don't hold your iPad by hand. There have been a few reports that holding the iPad by hand, seems to attenuate the wifi signal.
    Some Wi-Fi losses may stem from a problematic interaction between Wi-Fi and cellular data connections. Numerous users have found that turning off Cellular Data in Settings gets their Wi-Fi working again.
    You may have many apps open which can possibly cause the slowdown and possibly the loss of wifi. In iOS 4-6 double tap your Home button & at the bottom of the screen you will see the icons of all open apps. Close those you are not using by pressing on an icon until all icons wiggle - then tap the minus sign. For iOS 7 users, there’s an easy way to see which apps are open in order to close them. By double-tapping the home button on your iPhone or iPad, the new multitasking feature in iOS 7 shows full page previews of all your open apps. Simply scroll horizontally to see all your apps, and close the apps with a simple flick towards the top of the screen.
    Wi-Fi or Bluetooth settings grayed out or dim
    http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1559
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    If any of the above solutions work, please post back what solved your problem. It will help others with the same problem.
     Cheers, Tom

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