Wireless Router Interference

My router WRT54GS W/speedbooster interfeers with both ny wireless Logitec mouses..Can this be fixed somehow by changing channels or something?
They are both 2.4 mh and the router renders the mouses all but useless when someone is online connected to the wireless router?
Thanks.....

change the channel on the linksys to either channel 1 or 11.
go 192.168.1.1 (assuming defaults) admin is password go to wireless tab and change the chanel from there press save. let us know if that helps.
http://www.airspaceonline.com

Similar Messages

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

My HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 won't connect to my wireless router

This is bizarre. I have had my HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 for about 6 months. It has generally worked fine, and we have used it wirelessly only. But now it refuses to connect to the router. It can FIND the router, and it can find other networks in the area, but it won't connect to the router. I ran the Wireless Network Test, and the results say:
Wireless On - Pass // Wireless Working - Pass //
Network Name (SSID) found - Pass // Wireless Networks Detected - 9
Printer Settings Consistent with Wireless Router Settings - Pass / No Filtering - FAIL //
So it recommends solution as follows: "1 If MAC Address filtering is enabled, and you would like to keep it enabled, you must add the Mac address of your printer to the list of permitted devices for your router before continuing."
Except, guess what, I don't have MAC Address filtering enabled. I wouldn't know how to do that, much less check for it.
Also, before today, this was never a problem. HELP!
Thanks....
If you are interested, here's more detail and background.
Before today, the only problem we have had is that frequently our Apple laptop (OS X 10.6) has trouble connecting to the printer. This has been odd because the printer is connected to the network, and so is the laptop, but the laptop can't find the printer - it thinks the printer is "offline" (even though it's not). Usually, if I wait a while, it will find the printer, and it will resolve itself work fine. If not, we sometimes have found that it can fix itself if you restart the laptop -- restarting the printer does not make a difference. In fact, I did exactly that today, and it resolved itself. And I printed. Fine, right?
But then I wanted to do more printing, and the problem of the laptop not finding the printer came up again, so I decided to really "get to the bottom of this." I don't remember exactly what I did, but somehow I was persuaded by the online help, that the correct solution would be to go into my System Preferences / Print and Fax, and click on the "-", which de-installs the printer, with the idea of re-installing the printer. But then when I tried to re-install the printer, it could not find the printer. Ugh! Wierdly, it found an 8600 Scanner, but not an 8600 printers. After installing and de-installing the 8600 scanner a few times, I eventually deinstalled everything, and I decided to start from scratch. I got my HP disk, and installed all the software again from the beginning (even though it was already there), and then it looked for my printer, but couldn't find it. So then I got a USB cord, and plugged that in.
So, now I have a situation where I do have a working printer via the USB cord, but no wireless connection at all. In particular, since the Office Jet Pro 8600 won't connect to the router, I don't know what else to do. My Apple MacBook pro is 2 feet away from the printer, and it is connected to the router just fine (as is my blackberry), and I have never before had a problem connecting to the wireless router by the printer.
Any suggestions?

There are two things that can trip the mac filtering test to fail: actual MAC address filtering setup (sounds like this is not the case) and using wireless channel 6 or automatic for wireless channel in the wireless network settings (in the router). Since it does show failed for MAC filtering and you do not use this option, try changing the wireless channel in the router to 1 or 11. Those two channels provide the best compatibility with printers due to less interference. Almost everything defaults to auto or 6 for the channel and this causes a lot of interference. This change should not affect anything at all. To do this, you may need to contact the router manufacturer as the process differs from router to router.
What brand and model is the router?
Has anything in the network settings changed at all?
What version is the Mac OS X? There may be additional steps to take as it sounds like there are two separate issues involved and this could be revisited later.
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Need help with my E2100L Wireless Router

I moved back home with the parents after graduating from college while I'm searching for a job and I noticed my parent's wireless internet connection was really poor. I'm normally pretty decent with computers but I haven’t been able to fix this problem so I am hoping if I explain it to you fine folks and can point me in the right direction to getting everything running properly.
The problem I’m having is with the wireless signal fluctuating frequently when I’m not in the same room with the router. I know the issue is not with Comcast or the modem because when I remove the router and just plug into the modem I get 25 Mbps all day long when I run a test on Speedtest.net.
The setup is Comcast Internet 25 Mbps, SB6120 Modem, and Linksys E2100L Wireless Router with WPA2/WPA security activated.
Before I touched anything the modem and router were originally in my parent’s bedroom. I was getting speeds of less than 1 Mbps if any when I was in my bedroom so I moved them into the living room to be more centrally located. Our house is a one story house with bedrooms divided by the living room. The move seemed to help a little but something was still really wrong so I did a hard reset on the router. I setup up the network manually by going through the settings on 192.168.1.1. which made things work a little better. However I still wasn’t getting close to the speeds I should have been getting and when in my bedroom the connection would sometimes drop out altogether. So I did another hard reset on the router and this time I used the CD that came with it (Cisco Connect) to setup the network. That has got my problem halfway fixed because now if I am in the living room and my laptop is connected wirelessly when I run the speed test I get 25 Mbps.
I thought I have solved everything because in my bedroom the signal was now very good at 20 Mbps… except the 20 Mbps didn’t last. It held around 20 Mbps for the about first 10 minutes but then dropped to about 16 Mbps for a while. A day later when I run the test I now range anywhere from 3 Mbps to 14 Mbps. There seems to be no consistency. I did a hard reset again and setup the network using the CD and the problem persists. I get 20 Mbps in the very beginning and then it lowers from there and fluctuates frequently.
I thought it might be a firmware issue so I successfully updated it today to the latest firmware “1.0.05 build 4 Mar 8, 2012” but the same thing happens. I just don’t get it. Why am I able to get 20 Mbps for the first few min in my bedroom and then it’s a crapshoot thereafter? If it were interference wouldn’t the interference always be there and not be a gradual onset? Why when I’m in the living room with the router is it perfect at 25 Mbps but as soon as I go to my bedroom I get a much much lower connection speed.
I could handle the speed being lower if it was consistent but it’s not. This post has taken me about 20 min to type and while doing so I ran the test a few times at a couple minutes apart and got 3 Mbps, 7 Mbps, and 10 Mbps speeds. Someone please help! This is driving me crazy!!!

When in my bedroom there are only 2 other networks available to join that belong to neighbors but their signal strength is fair at best while my signal dances between being excellent and good. There is no microwave oven, cordless phone, or garage between me and the router. When I'm in my bedroom I'm no more than 10 feet from the actual router and only seperated by a wall and I'm pretty sure its not a brick wall.
Again I don't understand how it could be interference. If there was something interfering wouldn't it always be interfering? Like I said in my first post every time I reset the network I get speeds of 20 Mbps for the first few min in my bedroom and then it gradually lowers and I get a fluctuating speed between 3 and 14 Mbps.
In the settings there is no channel width option of 40 MHz only. I get "20 MHz only" and "Auto(20MHz or 40MHz)" as my options. I have tried them both but don't really notice a difference.
I am going to try the insider program today to see what its results are.

What type of wireless router is the 1st generation time capsule? Is it B, G or N. I'm trying to understand why our wifi signal is a bit erratic. Paul

what type of wireless router is the 1st generation time capsule? Is it B, G or N? I'm trying to establish whether its causing signal degradation as a result of conflicts with my BT Home Hub router.

The 1st generation Time Capsule is an 802.11"n" wireless router, but in default settings it produces a signal that is also compatible with "g" and "b" wireless devices.
If your HomeHub is in close proximity to the Time Capsule and it is also producing a wireless network, either the wireless on the HomeHub or the TIme Capsule should be be disabled to minimize the chances of wireless interference.
Interference may also be coming from any cordless phones you may have, or another nearby wireless network as well.

Can you hook a jetpack to a wireless router

can you hook a jetpack up to a wireless router

http://community.spiceworks.com/topic/377853-wireless-router-as-a-bridge-to-verizon-jet-pack
It can be done. However I normally use my broadband network and a wireless repeater. I use Netgear and Belkin, both work together nicely and you can place repeaters all over your home and property.
Additionally on my broadband modem I have opened up a WiFi connection for emergency access. Its buttoned up with high security but I access WiFi on the Netgear R6300 both wireless and hard connect(RJ-45) and through the Belkin Repeater both WiFi and hard connect (RJ-45) and I use my broadband modem/WiFi as both WiFi and hard connect (RJ-45) with absolutely no interference.
The basic principle is or should be the same with the jetpack as used as a pass through . See the link above.
Good Luck

WRT54GS and wireless phone interference

Up until a few days ago, I had a 2.4 GHz wireless phone system in the house but was getting constant "clicks and taps" on the phone. Since the wired phones operated fine and had no intereference, I figured it was the router. Changing the channels didn't help. Then I read and also was told that I should convert to a DECT 6.0 (1.9GHz) wireless phone system because wireless router signals wouldn't interfere with it. Fortunately the phones are not that expensive and I did that this morning...problem is, the interference is still there. I've upgraded my firmware to the latest via suggestion from a helpful gentleman in Live Chat, and changed the channel to the highest in the range but am still getting the interference.....any ideas?

1) This is very odd. Do you have a DSL or ADSL system? Or do you use cable or satellite?
2) Also, does the problem stop if you unplug the router?
If you have a DSL or ADSL system, then you need "line filters" on all your telephones, fax machines, etc. All telephone lines need a filter, except the line that goes to the modem. Your ISP should have supplied you with these line filters.

Best place for DSL wireless router to aquire strongest signal

Hi all
I have a Westell DSL wireless router sitting on a Kensington surge protection base with antennas pointing straight up. Is this ok? My wireless internet connection is ok for now. What's the best place for my wireless router for the strongest possible signal?
Thanks for your help
Web dude

Place it clear of HVAC ducting and away from any microwave or cordless phone base stations(s) in the house - these are the primary causes of wifi interference/noise and signal outages. Consider the area you want to cover (including any outdoor areas) and place the unit as near the center as possible.
Download a copy of AP Grapher and observe the signal quality in your intended reception area(s) to help place the router optimally for best signal and lowest noise, including rotating the antennas if needed - vertical is perfectly OK, but you may get marginally better signal or lower noise by rotating them.
AP Grapher can be downloaded from http://www.chimoosoft.com/products/apgrapher/

Roaming between E3000 wireless router and WAP300N

Hi all
The Linksys router I’ve got in my office room at home is providing poor coverage in my living room. Thus I’ve purchased a WAP300N and connected it by wire to the build-in 4 port switch of my Router (E3000). The set-up is providing a significant improvement in the living room, but… it seems as if the two wireless access points are “competing” over the “clients”.
When I move from the office room into the living room, my wireless equipment seems to be stuck on the connection to the wireless router in the office room – even though the signal from the WAP300N in the living room is much stronger.
The situation is exactly the same, when I move from the living room to the office room – the wireless equipment is stock on the weak signal from the living room.
I have to turn off and on the radio on my wireless equipment to get them to connect to the strongest signal.
Is there a way to make the “roaming” between wireless access points more smooth?
Kind regards
vonRasmussen

vonRasmussen :
Change the channel on the WAP or your router are on.
Not the 802.11?, but the transmission channels, which are probably transmitting on the same channel. I find the best results are at lease 2 numbers apart. if on is transmitting on channel 1 the next closest will be on 3. With multiple WAPs in a large area you would have to play Sudoko to make sure every one is 2 channels apart.
to quote Lisa Phifer:
Multiple access point configuration: Distinguish transmission signals;
Why should you access points use different channels? In a typical micro-cell Wlan, adjacent APs should always use non-overlapping channels, ( e.g., 1 ,6 ,11), to avoid co-channel interference.
Good Luck.
Dave

Wireless router connection probs..

Currently using imac intel core duo, 2 gigs ram, 250 gig hard drive.
My PC has the main internet connection upstairs, it has a wireless router that provides the downstairs computers with connection.
The network set up , upstairs, is called ''home''. From my imac in the basement, 2 floors below, i cant seem to sustain a good enough signal. We set up no wireless security and no password requirement to access our wireless network, but all of a sudden, a password is required. I heard it was easy for someone to get onto a wirelss non secure network and throw a password on and claim it for your own? I belive u need to reset your wireless router than go to the original creators website and create security? Until that has been done, my signal status has been set to default, and so is the computer directly beside mine(right beside) . This computer is set to default becuase the upstairs one has password, but it is sustaining a great signal on default, yet mine can never reach past 2/5 bars. Sometimes its back and forth from 4 bars to 2 bars, but there is never a sustained , good signal.
Is there something i can do to enhance the signal im getting? Something i can buy? (incoming signal enhancer?) First thing i thaught is, well your ofcourse not going to get a steady signal when its on default, but howcome the computer beside mine is? Is it a firewall thing?
Anyways, if you know anything about setting up security on a wireless router or anything to enhance my incoming signal, or anything to help me, i would greaty appreciate it.
-As im sure you can tell, im not a massive techy, im a noob to this stuff, please be gentle.
Thanks, Cole
Message was edited by: heggie88

{quote:title=heggie88 wrote:}im a noob to this stuff{quote}
ok, we will be gentlle...
First - Airport pull-down menu - Turn-on Interference Robustness
see if that helps...
what type of wireless router?
Is the firmware up-to-date?
Can you see the settings using the router address:
192.168.2.1
Can you restore previous settings?
Airport extender:
what I use:
well worth it...
http://www.netgear.com/Products/WirelessAccessPoints/WirelessAccessPoints/WPN802 .aspx
Thanks,
den
.

Problems with Wireless Router and Adapter

I tried posting this in the wireless adapter forum but nobody responded :-(
I'm using a WRT54G Router btw, and the firmware is v2.02.7, Feb. 27, 2004.
Hi everyone,
I have a Linksys Wireless G Router and several computers that I try to connect with. One of them is a computer running Windows XP and using a Linksys Wireless USB B Adapter (WUSB11). Another is a laptop running Mandriva Linux using a Linksys Instant Wireless Network PC Card (WPC11). Another one is running Windows Vista and using a Linksys Wireless N card. I also have a laptop running Windows XP using a Linksys Wireless-G Notebook Adapter (WPC54G). I also have another PC running Windows XP and uses a Linksys Wireless USB Adapter WUSB54G. Finally, I have two macintosh laptops running OSX and with airport devices installed.
Anyway, I have problems with my internet connection frequently being interrupted and even sometimes I won't have a connection at all for hours. This occurs with my Linux laptop, the PC with the Wireless B Adapter, and the laptop using the Wireless G Notebook Adapter. In addition to this, the macintosh laptops have internet even more infrequently. However, I seem to never have a problem with the Windows Vista desktop or the Windows XP desktop that has the Wireless G adapter. I try repairing the connection and often it does not work. I have also tried resetting the router and the cable modem. I'm not sure what else I can do. I even bought a Wireless N router and had little success with that. We even went as far as moving the wireless router upstairs into our living room, thinking that the signal was somehow suffering from interference or that distance was a factor. Anyway, sorry for the long post but I could really use some help!
Thanks.

Hi… logon to wireless N router’s setup page, open I.E. an in the address bar type 192.168.1.1 it would ask for username and password, put "admin" as a paassword (default password) without any username...linksys setup pops up, click on on wireless tab and and try changing radio band to wide 40MHz, wide channel to 9 and wireless standard channel to 1 or 11, go to advanced wireless settings reduce beacon interval to 50, fragmentation and RTS threshold to 2304, change N Transmission rate to 270 MBps…also try upgrading latest firmware on router, check whether it makes any difference or not and let me know.

Whic wireless router best for Mac

Hi. I am looking to connect our other Mac G4 tower to the internet via a wireless router but am unsure of which one to use.
Both G4's are running OS 10.3.9.
I have AT&T as my DSL provider.
Thanks for any assistance!
Kel
G4 1.25 GHz Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi, joni02. I don't know that this is the "best" option, but I recently bought a NetGear WGR614 router to replace an older wireless router that had died. Compared with the allegedly very Mac-friendly Asante unit it replaced, the NetGear router was an absolute snap to set up, with clear directions and a very simple browser-based setup interface. It also tripled the range I had had with the older router — a completely unexpected benefit.
I might add that I also bought a pair of NetGear XE102 Powerline adapters to enable my son to use his Aluminum Powerbook (which has truly pitiful wireless range with its Airport Extreme card) in his room, far away from the router. The XE102s use household electrical wiring to carry an Ethernet signal from the router to his Powerbook. This is a good alternative to wireless networking, where radio interference is a problem and the computers that need to be networked are remote from each other and mostly stationary.

DI-624 Wireless Router - Airport Extreme network tips

I have had problems with my D-Link DI-624 (rev.c) wireless router with WPA encryption ever since the recent AirPort updates, so I decided to post a solution in the hope that this may help someone who is also having the same issue.
This also might help people having issues with other older D-Link wireless router products. I've been using a couple of 624 models for about 4 years, and they're generally very good routers for their generation.
*The problem:*
I was experiencing wireless connection drops using WPA-PSK with the AES cipher on an Intel Mac Mini (late 2006) - Airport Extreme AND a PPC Mini. The minis are about 30 ft away from the router, through several walls.
I would get a connection drop randomly, maybe once every 15 minutes when the connection wasn't being used. I would have to disable airport, then enable it for a connection to the network to be re-acquired. This really annoyed people on IM, as I'd bounce on and off-line intermittently!
*The solution:*
- Use the latest firmware for the router (August 2006 - 2.76)
- Use WPA-PSK on the router for security (I do not recommend WEP because of the ease and speed of cracking WEP keys)
- IMPORTANT: Use TKIP cipher, not AES
- Disable Wireless Super-G (you can experiment later on if you have a "known good configuration")
- Disable 'extended range mode' (allows connections < 1megabit, useless for me)
- Change router wireless channel to 1 (for me, to avoid interference with other duelling wireless networks on channel 11)
I can't use WPA2 because I have a couple of Sony devices which do not support WPA2. I believe that if you don't have these devices, it might be better to use WPA2 with TKIP.
So, here's my 2 cents - hope it helps someone! If it does, reply to this thread.

Properly configured, the AirPort should provide both wired and wireless network client with Internet access.
At this point, I would recommend that you do the following as a minimum:
Power-down the modem, AirPort base station, and computer(s).
Power-up the modem; wait at least 10-15 minutes to allow it adequate time to initialize.
Power-up the AirPort base station; wait at least 5-10 minutes. Note: The AirPort's status light may continue to flash amber after it has intialized. That is because, there may be some additional configuration items necessary, like setting up wireless security, before the overall setup is completed to get a green status.
Power-up your computer(s).
If the above steps do not solve the problem, start over with step 1 above, but then perform the next steps between steps 1 & 2. above.
Disconnect the AirPort base station from the Internet broadband modem.
While all of the devices are powered-down, perform a "factory default" reset on the base station. This will get it back to its "out-of-the-box" configuration and make setting it up much easier, especially if you use the "Assist me" process within the AirPort Utility. (ref: Resetting an AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule)
After the base station resets, go ahead and power it back down.
Reconnect the AirPort base station to the Internet broadband modem. For the Extreme and Time Capsule, be sure to connect the cable to the base station's WAN (circle-of-dots) port.
Continue with step 2 in the first set of steps.
In this basic configuration, the AirPort base station will broadcast an unsecured wireless network with a Network Name (SSID) of Apple Network NNNNNN. Network clients, connected to the base station either by wire or wireless, should now be able to access the Internet through the ISP's modem. Once Internet connectivity has been verified, you can use the AirPort Utility to configure the base station for wireless security and any other desired options. Please post back your results.

Linksys Wireless Router Slowing Down Internet

Hi, I currently have Optimum Online boost through cablevision. I noticed I wasn't getting speeds anywhere near what Optimum stated my plan includes so I called them up. After troubleshooting they asked me to connect the cable modem directly into my laptop(bypassing the router) and run a speed test and then do the same speed test when accessing internet over the wireless router. The results of this showed that the wireless router was significantly slowing down my internet connection. I currently have a Linksys WRT54G V6 with firmware: v1.00.7, Feb. 16, 2006. Anyone have any ideas what in the router is slowing me down. FYI I am very close to the wireless router(excellent connection) with no interference around(my laptop and a dekstop are the only thing connected to the router) and I have tested this on multiple laptops wirelessly and it all shows that something in the router is slowing this down. MAC Filtering is disabled and the encryption is WPA - Personal AES-CCMP. Thanks! Hope someone can help. ppc
Message Edited by ppc on 06-28-2007 09:24 PM

hm. try updating the firmware. heres the link:
http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_CASupport_C2&childpagename=US%2FLayout&cid=116685983740...
Long, isn't it?

Replacing old wireless router...having trouble setting up.

I just purchased a Airport Extreme to replace our aging 802.11b wireless router (made by Microsoft :P) and can't seem to get the new one working.
I'm using Cox service so they have things running via DHCP. I liked how all my devices were set up to assign IP addresses of 192.168.2.x, which is easy for me to remember.
I tried to set the AE to similar settings as my old one but tells me that my DHCP starting and ending values are not valid. I'm also not sure of the IP address of the unit itself and the difference between that and the router address?
The status is green lit and the network diagnostics is saying it's a ISP/Internet/Server issue.
Message was edited by: Raymond So

Let's double-check the 802.11n AirPort Extreme Base Station's (AEBSn) settings...
AirPort Extreme Base Station Setup (AEBSn) w/Cable Modem
Perform a "hard" reset of the AEBSn.
o (ref: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107451)
Modem/Router Power ReCycling
o Power-off the Cable modem, AEBSn, & computer(s); Wait at least 30 minutes.
o Power-on the Cable modem; Wait at least 15 minutes.
o Power-on the AEBSn; Wait at least 5 minutes.
o Power-on the computer(s)
Setup the AEBSn
Temporarily connect your computer directly (using an Ethernet cable) to one of the LAN ports of the AEBSn, and then, using the AirPort Utility in Manual Mode, check these settings:
AirPort - Base Station
o Base Station Name: <change or use the default>
o Base Station Password: (optional)
o Contact: (optional)
o Location: (optional)
o Set time automatically (optional)
o Time Zone: <select your time zone>
o Status Light: Always On (Default)
o Allow configuration over Ethernet WAN port (unchecked)
o Advertise configuration globally using Bonjour (unchecked)
AirPort - Wireless
o Wireless Mode: Create a wireless network
o Network Name: <whatever you wish or use the default>
o Allow this network to be extended (unchecked)
o Radio Mode: 802.11n (802.11b/g compatible)
o Channel: Automatic
o Wireless Security: None
AirPort - Wireless - Wireless Options
o Region: <select your region>
o Multicast Rate: 2 Mbps
o Transmit Power: 100%
o Create a closed network (unchecked)
o Use interference robustness (unchecked)
Internet - Internet Connection
o Connect Using: Ethernet
o Configure IPv4: Using DHCP
o IP Address: <provided by your ISP>
o Subnet Mask: <provided by your ISP>
o Router Address: <provided by your ISP>
o DNS Server(s): <provided by your ISP>
o Domain Name: <provided by your ISP>
o DHCP Client ID: (optional)
o Ethernet WAN Port: Automatic (Default)
o Connection Sharing: Share a public IP address
Internet - DHCP
o DHCP Range: 192.168.2.x
o DHCP Beginning Address: 192.168.2.2
o DHCP Ending Address: 192.168.2.200
o DHCP Lease: 4 hours
o DHCP Message: (optional)
o LDAP Server: (optional)
o DHCP Reservations: (optional)
Internet - NAT
o Enable default host at: (leave blank)
o Enable NAT Port Mapping Protocol (checked)
Once you have validated Internet access, you should secure your wireless network with WPA2.

Wireless Router Interference

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