With Canon XF100, canfootage shot at a higher bit/frame rate than other footage be edited together?

If you start recording footage at the highest quality bit/frame rate for a project, then realize it's going to take forever to render and eat up a lot of space, can that footage be edited with footage shot at a lower bit/frame rate? Or will there be an obvious difference in quality? Trying to decide if it's best to switch rates now...
What would the best bit/frame rate setting be to shoot high-definition footage?
Thanks!

Were you shooting on the Panasonic HVX-200 onto P2 cards in 720pn mode?
Yes, that's correct.
you should still make a DVD and watch the movie on a TV
I will do that; thanks for the advice.
if you are having these problems on your computer, there's always a chance that your client will have problems showing the file on the unknown computers
That has been a big part of my cause for concern. My friend (the one I'm working with on this project, who owns the equipment we're using) would prefer to burn it to a Blu-ray disc, but unfortunately we don't have access to a Blu-ray burner. So I'm thinking we should provide it as both a DVD and as a QuickTime file, to cover as many bases as possible.
Thanks again for your patience with novice questions. I've looked for books on these kinds of things, but everything I've found seems to either be written at the extreme beginner level ("this is how you upload video onto your computer"), or the extreme advanced level. Perhaps I haven't been looking in the right places; if you can suggest some good reading materials on this kind of thing, that would be great.

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I'd like to update with MacOSX 10.5.8 to a higher version of Firefox than 3.6.22 and like to know how without buying a new computer

I'd like to update with MacOSX 10.5.8 to a higher version of Firefox than 3.6.22 and like to know, how I can do this without buying a new computer

Download latest Firefox version using one of these links:
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Problem with Canon XF100.

I have many files already saved on my network drive from my documentary project. CS6 deals with the files satisfactorily but Premiere Pro can not. What is the deal. How can I take MXF files already on my drive and make them function? I've tried to deal with support but the Phone call was disconnected and he never tried to get back with me. The ticket says withdrawn. Online Chat ended when the team viewer screen made the everything on my desktop disappear and then the chat screen went away. That ticket also says withdrawn. Neither agent tried to reconnect with me. Sent an email to [email protected] but have not had a response. Any one have any solutions or ideas on how to get Adobe support out of the US?
[Thread title shortened.]

Ok, so I made this discovery, I have observed some different reactions of Premiere Pro 7.2 CC when it deals with a MXF videos and I have not determined why it acts differently in these instances first: When dealing with a Folder on my network drive tilted AA1788 that resides in a clips straight of the canon xf100 CF card. In the AA1788 folder are 5 .mxf files with their corresponding .xmp and .sif files along with a AA1788.cif file and AA1788.xml file. When viewing this folder via the media browser in PPro CC i can see the XML file along with the appropriate number of and addressed (AA178801-AA178805) MXF videos, what I have discovered however is that PPro has spanned all the clips together and created five 5 identical files with the original AA1788xx file designation. OK so this is a bit frustrating but at least I can deal with that. I can not say at the moment that this is a consistent phenomena. In running a test on Folder AA1733 that resided on my desktop and contained many more MXF clips and corresponding files PPro did not span the clips together but left them as individual clips…. I suppose the best advice is keep a close watch when PPro CC deals with .MXF files. I've yet to edit and output anything on PPro CC so I can not relay any information on that. I must say that Adobe has been extremely deficient in dealing with this issue. They are very eager to get you to update and spend the cash but very very Poor with the support and fixes after.

How can I change to a higher frame rate than 12 FPS?

Just got a good deal on a 15 in MACBOOK Pro running Yosemite with the latest Quicktime and iMovie. Is the best frame rate I can get out of this HD camera 12fps? I can't find anywhere to change it in QT or in IMovie.
MacBook Pro with Retina display, OS X Yosemite (10.10.2)

studiojl wrote:...So as I understand it the camera will decide on FPS based off available light? ...
So you seem to correctly understand the information in the linked Use More Light! article.
studiojl wrote:... I don't like that at all...
Your emotion is irrelevant. It simply works the way Apple software is written. Perhaps some other computer system works different from Mac OS X and Apple camera apps?
If you intend to keep using Mac, you can take manual control of some camera parameters by using a third party add-on app such as iGlasses, Webcam Settings, or Sight Control.
studiojl wrote: ... what frame rate does it pick if I import one 30 FPS clip and one 60 FPS clip?
Whatever frame rate is set by the program of the software application you are using to record those clips.
You can determine that frame rate by making short test videos and watching it in QT Player.
The QT "Inspector" window will show you the frame rate for the clip.
Here's an example for a clip made in my low-light room:
Message was edited by: EZ Jim
Mac OSX 10.10.2

With Boot Camp, should I install the 64 bit version of Windows 7 (Home Premium edition) OR the 32 bit version when installing onto an early 2008 Mac Pro operating OSX Lion with a 1 TByte internal HDD?

With an early 2008 Mac Pro I'm about to add a second internal drive (1 TByte SATA) and initially install OSX Lion onto the new drive. Then to partition this new HDD via Boot camp. But my question is whether I am best advised to purchase the 64 bit version of Windows 7 (Home Premium) or the 32 bit version of Windows 7 (Home Premium) for the Windows sector of the disk What are the differences, and will I notice a difference in performance?

In chart from wiki, (scroll down to "Comparison chart") check the maximum CPUs supported.
You don't see this on MSoft's 1st searched for chart hit. This is one reason you will regret not paying for Professional+ if you get Home Premium 64 as I did for Mac Pro early 2008.
Home Prem Task Mgr sees 4 processors vs. the 8 that are seen by Pro+.
Costs more than a Mac upgrade to Lion if you make that mistake.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_7_editions

Cannot create slideshow with high frame rate

I have just bought QuickTime Pro version 7. I am using Windnows XP SP2 on a Pentium D machine.
I am trying to create a movie with still images I captured from my digital camera. I created a 10 seconds slideshow and set the frame rate to 30 frames per second. I then saved the file as a Quicktime movie. When I played the movie with my QuickTime Player, I could see actions for the first two seconds only. After that, the picture didn't change eventhough the progression bar was moving. Once the movie reached the end, the player then changed the frame to show the last picture of my slideshow.
In short, only the first 60 images are shown in the first 2 seconds. Then the slideshow was stuck with the 60th image, until it changed to the 300th image at the very end.
Does anybody has the same experience? Did I do anything wrong?

One more thing. If I set the frame rate to be less than 10 frames per second, it works fine. It just won't work with high frame rate.

High Latency with low frame rate

I'm getting 30 seconds of latency (between source video and
FME input window) when frame rate is set to 1.00 fps. With higher
frame rates, latency is very low.
Odd behavior: when switching from, say, 29.97 to 1.00 fps, I
see every frame (no frames are dropped), but they paint at only 1
per second (which means a large buffer is building somewhere).
After several seconds, the behavior switches to the expected 1 fps
(with all intervening frames dropped), but the whole thing is
delayed by roughly 30 seconds.
build: FME 2.5.0.2086
format: H.264 or VP6 (happens with both)
size: 352 x 240
bit rate: 200 Kbps
keyframe freq: 1 sec
Am I doing something wrong?

My encoding machine is a Gateway Pentium 4, 2 GHz with 1
GByte RAM, Windows XP Service Pack 2.
Video capture is done with a Pinnacle 510-USB peripheral,
Pinnacle driver 4.0.46.0.
Here's how I observe the problem: my input video is a color
bar pattern with burned-in time code. When I switch frame rates
from 29.97 fps to 1 fps, I see each and every frame appear in the
Media Encoder monitor window (as verified by looking at the
burned-in frame counter). However, only one 1 frame per second is
rendered. For example, I first see 01:00:00:01, then 1 second later
I see 01:00:00:02, then 1 second after that: 01:00:00:03, etc.
After several seconds, I then begin to see the burned-in time
code jumping in 1 second counts -- the expected behavior:
01:00:20:13, next second: 01:00:21:13, next second: 01:00:22:13,
etc.
The problem occurs when switching from any rate lower than my
source video rate of 29.97 fps, it's just that it's easier to
describe what happens at the lower 1 fps rate.

High frame rate outputting

Is it possible, having shot footage at 100fps (with a timebase at 25), then interpreted footage as 100fps to maintain the high speed frame rate, to output this as a 100fps file, to be watched at the same speed? I'm guessing only some machines/players can support this, but this is separate issue. I'm wanting to find out about getting a workflow for high frame rate footage in Premiere (or After Effects, as I read somewhere else this can support 99fps outputs.)
This is not a question of slow motion shooting/overcranking- there seems to be the capability to shoot high frame- is it possible to retain this in order to output it at the same speed it was shot?
But the issue seems that high end footage (say from a RED for instance) can only support a timebase framerate of maximum 59.96 (although something like a GoPro can go to 120p)
Would be great to discuss this more- its only a matter of time before this becomes more prevalent...

If the GoPro 2 does 60p I'd do that if you want slow footage from that cam too. Either way I'd do a custom project storyline at 720/30 frames. Then do some web searching on the term "conform" because you'll want (I think) to conform the fast stuff down and that will slow it down. You'll just import some portion of your 120fps footage from the event library and and choose Conform Speed from the Retime menu (command R). You can go beyond that by retiming further and by choosing Optical Flow for video quality. If that still isn't enough you might need twixtor but you may find that's workable. If you shoot at 120fps you'll get some seriously slow stuff after conforming and retiming slower.

Understanding compositions with different frame rate

Hey everyone,
I am working with AVCHD footage with a frame rate of 25.
If it drop my footage into a new compostion after affects sets everything
up automatically.
I'd now like to what happens to my avchd clip if I change the frame rate
of my compostion from 25 to 24. What excatly happens to the frame
missing? Does AE just gets rid of it?
Does it make a difference if I just change my comp settings from 25 to 24
or if I drop my 25 comp into a new one with 24.
Thinking of it the other way around, if I change my frame rate from 25 to 50,
does that mean that AE doubles the frames of my files?
In general, does the changes have any impact on the speed of my footage?
I'm looking forward to your reply. Much appreciated.
Best,
Alex
PS: this count for Premier Pro aswell?

When you create a layer in a composition, and that layer is based on a video footage item, the composition checks at each composition frame to see (sample) the data from the footage item. If there isn't a single frame of data from the footage item that exactly lines up with the frame in the composition, then the composition samples from the footage frames on either side and does one of several things: It can either just pick one of the two frames, or it can just mix them together, or it can do something much smarter and try to reconstruct the image that would have existed between the two frames.What it does depends on what frame blending setting you're using.
When you're using a footage item that has a higher frame rate than your composition, and both frame rates are relatively high, you don't need to worry about this at all, as the default settings tend to work just fine.
To sum up, changing the frame rate of the composition just changes how often the composition samples the image data from the footage item. It does nothing to the footage item itslef and doesn't affect how fast the video from that footage item plays in a layer.
To interpret a footage item as being at another frame rate, or to conform a footage item to a frame rate, you have to use the Interpret Footage dialog box.
For more information, see "Frame rate".

Canon RAW files shot at high ISO not importing properly

Since updating to Yosemite I am having a problem with trying to use RAW files shot at ISOs higher then 800. In iPhoto I am simply getting a white rectangle with no image. I am able to import the images using the Canon software, then convert them to JPEGs and import them into iPhoto.

Since updating to Yosemite I am having a problem with trying to use RAW files shot at ISOs higher then 800. In iPhoto I am simply getting a white rectangle with no image. I am able to import the images using the Canon software, then convert them to JPEGs and import them into iPhoto.

I have Photoshop Elements 9. I downloaded the plug in 6.0 and it works on the RAW files from Canon EOS 60D, but not with Canon EOS 70D. I cannot download higher versions of plug in, because I have Windows Vista and it is not supported.

I have Photoshop Elements 9. I downloaded the plug in 6.0 and it works on the RAW files from Canon EOS 60D, but not with Canon EOS 70D. I cannot download higher versions of plug in, because I have Windows Vista and it is not supported.

You could try using the DNG converter 8.7 on Windows vista:
<Adobe - Adobe Camera Raw and DNG Converter : For Windows : Adobe DNG Converter 8.7>
<Adobe - Adobe Camera Raw and DNG Converter : For Macintosh : Adobe DNG Converter 8.7>
You then need to watch this video to get hang of it:
<Camera Raw: How to use Adobe DNG Converter - YouTube>
Hope this helps.

IMovie footage shot with Canon XL2 looks exports to m4v which looks lousy

Video shot with Canon XL2, captured/imported into iMovie, it looks good in iMovie but when sharing it, it turns into m4v. Is this correct? Burned DVD in iDVD and it looks lousy. Isn't it supposed to be a mov file and not m4v?

Does that require me to get rid of my 100 Hz or 200 Hz screen and exchange it for a 24 Hz screen?
No. This stuff looks equally good on CRT, Plasma or LCD. (Though I do recommend leaving off such things as 100 Hz modes, as they have a tendency to produce the opposite effect, making film look more like video.)
Film shot at 24 FPS is shown as 48 half frames,
Where on earth did you get that idea? Film is always shown theatrically as whole frames, whether 24 or 48 fps.
When will you send me the ticket?
Opening day for my first fiction project will be in my cousin's basement home theater, on a 9 foot screen with overhead projection. I'll let you know when the release date approaches. Better get your ticket early, though. I'm expecting a line all the way around the shed, stretching clear to the garbage cans.

Using HD 1080i60 shot with sony z1 and 24p shot with canon in a sequence.

is it possible to use two different kind of footage( one is HD 1080i60 shot with sony z1 and the other one is HD 24p shot with canon) in a sequence? if not what should I do?

Yes, it's possible. Make your sequence with the settings of the material you shot more of, and the other one will be rendered to those settings when you bring it in.
For a more consistent look between the two, you may want to look into this:
http://www.nattress.com/Products/standardsconversion/standardsconversion.htm

Does Premiere E support video shot with Canon 5D or Sony XDCAM EX?

Does anyone know if I can edit video shot with Canon 5D or Sony XDCAM EX? I did some research but can't find the answer!

Which version of PrE are you looking into? PrE 10 has DSLR Presets that cover the Canon 5D. Not sure about the XDCAM EX, but this ARTICLE covers the supported formats. I know that PrPro CS 5.5 offers full, native support for XDCAM footage, but do not see it in the PrE list.
Good luck,
Hunt

How to get super sharp pictures without stand with canon 60D?

When you mention a stand, are you referring to a tripod?

There are many things you can do... good techniques you can learn. These work with any camera, not just the 60D... 1. Use a tripod. I mean, why not, if it's possible? Alternatively, use a monopod. Or steady the camera and lens on a rock or fence or against a tree. When possible, use something to help steady your shot. Of course, it's not always possible! NOTE: An exception is if in a moving vehicle - an airplane or a car for example - it's usually just the opposite. Even if the vehicle is stopped, but the engine is running, you don't want the camera to touch any of the hard surfaces because vibrations will cause blurring. In effect, use your body to insulate and isolate the camera from the vehicle vibrations. 2. Use a faster shutter speed. Slow shutter speeds are just asking for camera shake blur. This may mean bumping up your ISO (use 400 instead of 100, for example). Or, you might need to use a larger aperture. Or you might need to do a little of both. 3. Longer focal length lenses are harder to hold steady than shorter. So a rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should be the reciprocal of your lens focal length. If you are using a 50mm lens, you should try not to use slower than 1/50 shutter speed. If you are using a 200mm lens, try not to go below 1/200. 400mm lens, keep to faster than 1/400. Actually, the 60D is a crop sensor camera, which magnifies susceptibility to camera shake at the same time it magnifies the image in the camera, so by rights you should use slightly faster shutter speeds. That 50mm lens on the crop camera behaves like an 80mm lens on a full frame camera and the rule of thumb regarding shutter speeds is actually based upon full frame. So you might want to keep to 1/80 or faster with that 50mm (but to be honest I manage to use the simple reciprocal with my crop cameras... and even slower... but I've had lots and lots of practice and use a number of stabilized lenses, as well). 4. Use stabilized lenses. Canon's IS (Sigma's OS and Tamron's VC) allow you to use somewhat slower shutter speeds and still get a steady shot. NOTE: if using a tripod, with some stabilizzed lenses you must manually turn off IS, otherwise in the absence of any movement the IS will get into sort of a feedback loop where it's actually inducing movement, instead of counteracting it. 5. Speaking of aperture, most lenses aren't at their sharpest wide open. Stop down a little. If yours is an f4 lens, try f5.6. My 50mm f1.4 lens is not at it's best at f1.4, but is quite good at f2. 6. However, at the same time try to avoid using too small apertures. Really small apertures such as f22 cause an effect known as "diffraction". This robs fine detail from images, giving a less sharp appearance. On your 60D, try to use no smaller than f11... maybe f16 at the smallest. Your images will thank you. 7. For handheld shots, learn good holding techniques until they are second nature. Cradle the lens in your left hand, with your right hand gripping the camera. Stand at a slight angle to your subject, one foot slightly ahead of the other and your feet about shoulder-width apart. Stand flat-footed. Keep your elbows tucked in fairly close to your torso. 8. Press the shutter release gently... don't stab at it or tap it. This is much like shooting a gun, where you gently pull the trigger rather than jerking it, to maintain accuracy. 9. If using slow shutter speeds (say 1/30 and below), first use a tripod... But also use a timer delay or remote release so that you aren't touching the camera at the time of exposure. Also use mirror lockup or Live View (which also does mirror lockup). This is so that the "bump" from the mirror and vibrations it causes don't blur the image. Mirror lockup is important on shutter speeds between about 2 seconds and 1/30. Faster and longer shutter speeds don't show problems from mirror "bump" vibrations. 10. Set your camera to a high frame rate and fire off a short burst of shots. The first image might be blurred, but others in the series are likely to be sharp as you hold the shutter button down for the duration of the burst. There are other tricks, but these are the major ones. Also don't mistake other causes of blur for camera shake. Even if you are doing everything right when using a slow shutter speeed, if the subject moves that can create blur in the image. It could be the wind blowing flowers or tree branches, even. Usually it's camera shake if the entire image is showing movement blur. Localized blur is usually due to subject movement. But it also can be a missed focus issue. Learn to tell them apart. I'd also recommend keeping your camera sensor clean, a dirty sensor can make an image look soft (shouldn't be a big deal with a 60D, which has a self-cleaning sensor that's pretty effective). And remove any filters from your lenses... they can and do cause image sharpness issues. In certain atmospheric effects, a polarizer or sky/haze filter might enhance sharpness... but in many situations any filter will costs some resolution. It might be very little under ideal conditions if the filter is very high quality, multi-coated. Or it might be a lot of loss, if the filter is lower quality and single coated or uncoated. Use a lens hood... it can prevent oblique light from striking your lens, which helps contrast and reduces flare. Might help with focus speed and accuracy, too.

With Canon XF100, canfootage shot at a higher bit/frame rate than other footage be edited together?

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