XFi software lacks levels, distance, and EQ tweaking for analog outpu

I can't find any where in the Creative software where I can tweak the analog output. Required things like distance compensation, Re-EQ and so on. Vista lets you set how many channels and if the speakers are small or large is all.
The old Audigy software did this as does most on board HD Audio. I find it hard to believe Creative would have ditched this needed function.
I am running their XFI Gamer card and installed the provided "THX" drivers and software. But there is NOTHING in the THX panel for any speaker setup.

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    Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
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    We called back, spoke with another rep, told her about the upgrade, were told once again we were not eligible until October.  Once again we went through the entire conversation from the store, told her about being on the phone an hour and getting disconnected, she said she would look into everything, put us on hold for 15 minutes, came back and said we would be eligible June 30th....not today.  I asked about the Free 32GB 5C, she said that was for "select" customers and she could not offer that to us.  This was now disappointing on a few levels, between the last 2 hours of getting nowhere and now we are not eligible for something others can get, this left a bad taste in my mouth.  She put us on hold for a supervisor.  After going back and forth on being told by multiple reps we could upgrade in May and now being told we can't and not being given any reasons as to why this changes from one person to another, the Supervisor said she would make us eligible to upgrade early that day, but that because it was before 6/30 we could not get the 5C promotion.  We asked if we would be eligible for the promotion if we waited until June 30, she said yes, but we could not get it before then.  We confirmed this 3 times and asked her to put a note in the system so we would not have to go through this again.  She confirmed with me 3 times, we could upgrade that day and pay the discounted price for the 5C, but if we waited until 6/30 we would be eligible for the 32GB 5C at no charge.  This was what we were looking for and were willing to wait.
    The other day I called to confirm that when we walk into the store next Monday-6/30 the notes were in the system, and we would not have any problem getting the promotion.  The rep said we would not be eligible to upgrade for any discounts until October....<sigh>  Went through previous conversations once again, asked for her to please look through the notes, she saw the supervisors note showing we could upgrade at the discount but no mention of the 5C promotion and said Marketing had not "Flagged" us for that promo and we could not get it.  I asked once again to speak to a supervisor, she looked through the account and repeated the same thing about not being flagged but she would send an email to the supervisor that added the notes and find out what was going on.  I asked to be CC'ed so I can have this all in writing, she said yes, and to expect to hear back from someone by the end of the next business day.
    It is  now 4 days later, I have not heard from anybody, I figured today I would look at MY plan and see if I could at least use one of the lines on my account and see if I was eligible for the promotion.  Mind you, last year when I upgraded to the 5S, I was talked into adding my Verizon iPad to it, and instead of going month to month on it, add it to a shared plan, and I would be able to use the line on my iPad to upgrade to a newer phone, he even showed me how to do it myself.  So now when I was looking to do what I was promised I could do, I am not able to do it, it only showed I can upgrade to another tablet only.  I did the online chat and the rep told me that policies can change from day to day without notice.  This does not sit well with me at all.  I get sold to do something based on what the rules are one day, and tomorrow the rules change, this to me is equivalent to Bait & Switch and I now have to question the ethics here.  This also tells me Verizon at this point takes retained customers for granted where my past experience was so much better than it is now.
    Due to the complete lack of communication and simply keeping notes of previous conversations in their system so you don't have to keep explaining yourself over and over and being told different things by every rep I speak to down the line, I am not just back at square one with my step daughters phone, but a step back on what I signed up for on my plan.
    AT&T has a program now that pays the Early Termination Fee and gives full discounts and Promos for new customers.  I may be forced to look into this as it will cost me much less down the line in time and money, and I can use talk and data at the same time.
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  • Creative Audigy lack of specifics and vaguen

    First of all, let me just say that i've never known a hardware card maker that can be so popular
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    amazing. Case example:
    Exhibit A. I'm a computer tech and I come
    across an Audigy card in computer that i'm
    fixing so I need the *correct* drivers.
    Exhibit B. I have an Audigy cd-rom disk from apreviously owned card. I try to install the driverbut they're obviously incorrect but ALAS! the
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    Exhibit C. The drivers don't work correctlyso I check my windows Control Panel to seeif theres a way to *specifically" identifyit but the only thing it says is "Sound BlasterAudigy". Lovely. So, which brand could it be?
    Exhibit D. Ok, I need the correct drivers fora *specific* Audigy brand and I go to the Creativewebsite to do a search for Audigy drivers. Whatdo I find? About 0 different Audigy cards. Great.Here we go with the lack of specifics and vagueness....
    Exhibit E. So I proceed to take the card out ofthe computer and look at the model number toidentify it. It says "Soundblaster Audigy Model SB0090" and below that it also says"Audigy SB394 Advanced HD". So i'm thinkinghmmmm could this be an SB0090 or an SB394 butI soon find out its an SB0090 because an SB394is a "Firewire chip", which leads me to....
    Exhibit F. I find a link on the Creative websitethe says "Identify your product" and behold Ifind the SB0090 listed but its only listed as "Sound Blaster Audigy card with gold jack connectorand 394 port"..... so its off to the loony bin again.Again, which brand Creative? Still theres 0 differentbrands and still no way to specifically identify it!
    Exhibit G. Maybe I can tell by looking atthe pictures of the products provided on thewebsite. What do I find? Several differentcards that all look the same! They have the "gold jack connectors and 394 port" aswell as the "Advanced HD".
    So what is it's A "Gamer"? An "LS"? A "Platinum"or could it be an Audigy 2? WAKE UP CREATIVE,YOUR SOOOO VAGUE! Heres proof in summary:
    . Windows Control Panel - "Sound Blaster Audigy"But which brand?
    2. On the card itself - says "Sound Blaster AudigyModel SB0090".... but leads to nowhere becauseCreative's "Identify Your Product" only says:
    3. "gold jack connectors 394" but theresmore than one brand (Firewire) that look the
    same in the pictures!
    And here I am still with an unknown "Audigy" brand and no drivers that I can be sure willcorrectly work. Amazing, because if I were the owner of this card instead of the computertech, i'd probably throw your "Audigy" in the garbage (but i'd probably hit it with a sledgehammer a few times first).Message Edited by ZauR on 2-04-2004 09:55 PM

    ZauR,
    The Audigy downloads are listed by the packages that they came in. This was done to insure that customers that purchased a specific type of card (say an Audigy Gamer) would know that they were going to the right place. The driver pages for all but the LS is the same. So it isn't really a case of being vague, we are actually being rather specific (as a single listing for "Audigy" would be vague). Since there was never a retail package that was just an "Audigy" there is no listing like that.
    For the SB0090, I would suggest going to the Audigy Gamer download page (it is what I use for my SB0090) but really any of the pages except for the LS will work. The Audigy LS is the only Audigy card that requires different drivers and software.
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  • II am looking for information on iPad and iPhone apps and Mac software that are "top of the line" for academic research. The most current and comprehensive information I have found is dated July 2010.

    I am looking for information on iPad and iPhone apps and Mac software that are "top of the line" for academic research. The most current and comprehensive information I have found is dated July 2010.

    PogoPossum,
    My area of interest is in business and economic history. There is a considerable amount of reading and charting. Until the iPad hit the streets, I only considered stacks of books, journals, and downloaded documents, all marked up with highlighters, underlines, and marginal notes.
    Most of my PC based work involved MS Office, Endnote, and MS OneNote.
    What I would like to do with the iPad and MacBook are the same things (Office, Endnote, OneNote) and add the ability to read and markup all forms of printed materials from books to pdf to webpages.
    I cut my teeth on an iPod Touch and have tried a lot of the note taking and reading apps. Without a camera the standard iPod Notes works for short quick notes and long think pieces. I just emailed the content and downloaded the stuff to my PC. Obviously, I do not want to continue at this "non-integrated" level of work.
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  • Analog Levels vs SPDIF Levels Input and Output in Logic Pro

    Hello,
    I ran a test last night for recording input and output levels from my Yamaha Motif XS8 through an Apogee Ensemble to compare Analog to SPDIF
    I connected two TRS cables from the L and R outputs on the Motif XS into the Analog Inputs on the Apogee and also have the SPDIF connection from the Motif to the Apogee.
    I put the master fader all the way up on the XS for the volume for analog.
    The ensemble in Maestro has a +4 and -10 reference notional level option for analog inputs. i had it at +4 but changed to -10 and the analog got louder (i figured it would get louder for +10, confusing).
    anyways, why is it that I can record louder levels for analog than the digital transfer?
    I tracked both options at the same time then recorded vocals over it. the digital sound is too low. what's up with that?
    and when I tried to bounce the recording to listen to it in ITunes, the volume levels were way lower than my cd playing through iTunes. Please enligthen me on these?
    I use to record in a Roland 2480, and had similar results with loudness, but got a little louder through mastering but still....pro cds are way louder and still clear.

    I think there is much confusion here!
    In summary, you wont be able to control the recording level of S/PDIF.
    The reason is that you don't want to!
    You need to think of the SPDIF connection as being more like a file transfer method. You are copying the digital data at an output to your harddrive in effect. If I send you an MP3 via email you'd never imagine that your email software is capable of changing the gain of the MP3 I send you. This might sound daft but its a useful analogy. If you need to increase the "volume" of that MP3 then you'd need to ask the sender. Its the same with your set-up.
    There could well be somewhere on your synth that adjusts the instruments level, other than the master (analogue) output control. For example, make sure the midi volume of the intrument being played is set to full - ie midi vol 128. Perhaps there is somesort of virtual mixer onboard to control all the muti-timbral parts so make sure your part has its virtual fader turned up.
    This is what (basically) is going on in the chain...
    Your synth creates sound in its "digital brain". This sound is sent to an "output stage" which will distribute the sound to various outputs. In the case of the S/PDIF it will just send the raw digital data untouched. For the analogue side the digital signal (same as the one sent to S/PDIF) will be converted to analogue and then sent to a amplifier to get it to an appropriate "line level". This final level could well be controlled by an anogue volume control which could be adding more gain (than you think) too.
    When things go to your sound card/ daw...
    The purpose of a analogue gain control is to set the i/p signal so that it suitably loud to beat any noise that exists in your input circuits - so that a good signal to noise ratio is achieved. Analogue signals need to work in the right loudness zone (so to speak) as the analogue electronics will be designed to handle signal levels of a particular range. the gain control is there to make sure the signal is in that range.
    Digital signals are far more predictable though and there is no advantage to your recordings if the incoming digital signal gets an increase of level at the input stage. All you are doing here is effectively adding a few zeros to the binary digital data!
    Lets face it the point of recording is to get a copy of the original sound, that is as similar to the original as possible. With S/PDIF you get a perfect copy of what's coming out of your synth - so job's a good un!
    If, when you come to mix in logic, you find the level of the digital recording is indeed too low for mixing/mastering purposes then just boost it in logic via a fader or via the gain plugin.
    Those referrence values of -10dBV and +4dBu refer to analogue voltage levels only. they have nothing to do with the digital domain. The -10/+4 switch will be only relevant to analogue inputs and outputs. Using an analogue VU meter you should find that a sine wave that peaks at 0dBVU (totally different to 0dBFS BTW) is the equivant of a digital sine wave peaking at -18dBFS.
    The analogue headroom (how loud you can go before things distort) depends on the analogue electronics and varies with different design. Analogue stuff, like mixers) often has headroom of 24dB or more. So that digital stuff can interface with analogue properly we allow for that analogue headroom to be around 18dB (usually enough in practise!)... hence -18dBFS(digital)=0dBVU(analogue).
    To make your digital and analogue input signals sound similar in level you will probably have to reduce the gain of the analogue input. If you set the incoming analogue signal to peak around -14dB (or less!) or so you will probably find things more equal. If you are working in 24 bit your analogue levels can be seemingly very low before sound quality is affected. Its quite safe to record at -20 or even -30dB as shown on logic's meters for eg.
    I hope all this waffle helps LOL!

  • What are the iTunes digital audio levels in and out

    I am having a lot of trouble with finding out and setting the audio levels in and out of iTunes.
    Digital audio has 16bits at '1' with an analog signal level of +12dB, 24bit has all'1's at +18dB. Making the overhead capability for CD 16bit 12dB and that for HD 24bit 18dB.
    I would like to record (using SoundStudio) a set of standard audio tones from 20-20kHz with digital levels of "all 1's" 16bit, or +12 dB analog level, "all 1's" 24bit ditto, and the same for levels of analog 0dB (-12dB digital) for 16bit and 0dB(-18dB digital) for 24bit.
    What I am finding is that if I get Sound Studio to inert a tone at what it calls 0dB, save it as AIFF, then the output it from iTunes I get a much higher level, around +8dB or so!
    Any ideas?

    As an addition to my first question. I asked the makers of Sound Studio about levels. They tell me that the Mac standard is to have all '1's in the digital stream defined as 0dB.
    Which helps as I can now record a tone at the CD level of -12dB and the HD audio level of -18dB. And if I make recordings I know to keep the input levels well into the green, not yellow and definitely not up to the red.
    As you say the output of iTunes is boosted, and from my measurements this boost is in the analog circuitry and is about +8dB.
    I woul dnot recommend turing down the iTunes volume control as this brings in the digital volume reduction, which depends on the algorithm they have implemented. This is not so bad for iTunes as the Audio Core software works at 32bit and can handle 16bit volume changes fairly well. But on the iPad it is different as iOS is only 16bit audio so the volume algorithm is poor. So always leave the volume at maximum and turn down your HiFi volume control!
    Or use a digital output to an external DAC as the iTunes volume control is then disabled. Set Audio MIDI for 24bit output and you are ready to go with HD Audio.

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