2 Issues: Low Bus Speed and Visable Hairline on LCD

I noticed on the system properties window that after the P8400 @ 2.26Ghz it has the bus speed at 791Mhz. I thought it is suppose to be at 1033Mhz. Is there anyway to check if it's a settings issue or if the processor is defective?
Also on the LCD display there seems to be a 2 cm long hairline slightly arcing from near the bottom right edge. I though it to be a scratch but upon closer inspection the mark appears to be behind the surface. I'm not sure how that could have happened but I'm curious as to what it is.
I know the care instructions say not to pick up the laptop from the screen, but I do pick it up sideways (lid closed, pick up as you would a tray). Is that considered a nad idea?
Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

if the LCD is not damaged by you, and the hairline is due to some manufacturing defect, then you can get it repaired under warranty by Lenovo.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

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Fcp - ram speed, bus speed, and 64 bit processing

how much do these (ram speed, bus speed, and 64 bit processing) specs play a role in fcp's performance? I hear conflicting opinions about it's utilization of the 64 bit processor(s). some say yes some say no. is ram speed from one rev to the next that much different, particularly in the last two G5's? Or, is the amount of ram and the processor type the most important considerations in optimizing fcp performance? thanks for your help!

SD/SDI card is to bring in video material in formats other than DV. If all you will ever work in is DV or HDV, firewire only is fine. If you want to work with non-DV formats and without expansion slots, you need to look into something like the AJA io to do your conversion and bring it down firewire. This solution has its own potential problems when the device and the hard drives are on the same bus.
You need a second drive just for media. On the Powermac you simply add a second internal drive. This is not possible on the iMac - an external firewire drive is the only option. This by itself is not an issue. Most people who do this with any seriousness end up adding a series of external hard drives to deal with the mass of media.
The limiting factor is that you only have one firewire bus (all macs have only one firewire bus) and if you run into problems with the camera (or VTR or AJA io) & hard drives not cooperating on one bus, you have no option to fix it. On the iMac, you have no option to add in a card to create a second firewire bus in the system.
So yes, the people at the store are correct. You can make the iMac work (with an external firewire drive). However, if you run into problems, you have severely limited options to mediate them. What I was trying to suggest is some things work better. An analogy might be, If I need to drive nails, the handle of a screwdriver can be made to work, but I should not be surprised if it does it badly and breaks when pushed hard.
good luck.

Bus Speed and Ram Speed Question..thanks

I have recently purchased my first mac! I purchased a refurb but I noticed that the one I purchased has bus speed of 800mhz and the ram has 667mhz. (I did get a 320g hard drive vs a 250g and a 256mb graphics card vs a 128mb) The other one has bus speed of 1066mhz and ram speed has 800mhz. Am I going to notice a difference in the bus/ram speed difference or just stay with the one I purchased?
thanks

I don't think you will notice a difference. Other system factors (such as video card, system CPU clock speed, amount of RAM installed, speed of hard drive, etc.) will most likely overwhelm any noticeable difference cause by the slower bus speed.
If the price of the refurb was good, you should keep it. I have an online Apple Store refurb myself, and although I know that the latest iMacs are a bit faster, I don't see how that extra speed will be of great benefit to me. I'm much happier with the money I saved on the refurb compared to a new iMac.

Galaxy S4 KitKat Update Causing Major Issues With Data Speed and Text Messaging

Dear All,
My company has over 40 phone users and since the KitKat update has pushed out we are experiencing two major isssues:
Many of our phones are only getting 3G in places that historically before they had blazing fast 4G. Most message boards say to power off, remove the SIM card and replace. This gives only temporary relief. We get 4G for 10 minutes, and then it reverts to 3G, and it is slow 3G at that. I have seen where some have gone and gotten a replacement SIM, but they indicate this is not a long term solution. I have also seen that a hard reset/factory reset is being proposed. However, this seems ridiculous to do to over 40 devises where the obvious cause is the update. Has anyone found the answer to this one?
Many users, including myself are now having outbound text messages fail. We have to resend them over and over to get them to go through. This problem is pretty widespread through the device pool. I am unsure what could be causing this. The messages fail regardless of if the phone is connected to wireless or not.

I have had the same problem with my phone. Called tech support and after they contacted Samsung the solution is a factory reset to fix the problem and they are supposedly working on a fix for it. After doing the reset Friday, I have to restart my phone multiple times during the day to get messages to send. I also notice only 3G where we always had 4G. Called tech support again and was given the option to send phone in to have it repaired or get a refurb under warranty. Not sure what I am going to do yet but I can see it is definitely not just my phone. Of course the techs say they have not heard of this before.

Very slow upload speeds and packet loss

I have the exact same issue as the following threads.
https://community.bt.com/t5/BT-Infinity-Speed-Connection/Very-bad-connection-Packet-Loss-very-low-up...
https://community.bt.com/t5/BT-Infinity-Speed-Connection/extremely-low-upload-speeds-and-high-latenc...
My download speed is around 36M and my upload speed on speed tests either fails to connect or I get around 0.5M. Pinging google leads to frequent none responses, probably on average 1 in ever 8 pings fails.
I have rebooted the router, reset the router to factory settings and disconnected all devices apart from 1 clean CentOS desktop pc to do the speed test and still get the same results. Could someone please give me details so I can get this investigated properly and soon as it is effecting my work.

Still experiencing unusable upload speeds, can someone please help me with this? Below is todays test.
FAQ
1. Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
Download Speed
37.88 Mbps
0 Mbps
38.71 Mbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 37.88 Mbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speedsis 20 Mbps-38.71 Mbps .
Additional Information:
IP Profile for your line is - 38.71 Mbps
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed
0.31 Mbps
0 Mbps
10 Mbps
Max Achievable Speed
Upload speed achieved during the test was - 0.31Mbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 10 Mbps

Changing the system bus speed?

Hello,
I have an overclocked 700MHz (now 900MHz) eMac, with a 100MHz system bus speed, and I am wondering, is the only way of messing with the processor speed overclocking it? And if you CAN change the bus speed, will it make the eMac feel any faster? Since the processor is at 900MHz, I would like the bus speed to be around 750-850MHz. Is that even possible? I've tried googling this kinda thing, but all I get is how to overclock it. (I got that part already, I just want to know if I can change the system bus speed too.)
Regards.....
Your fellow eMac User,
Matthew Knice

I'm thinking that, with two months of viewing, it either isn't possible or offeres too much risk of turning the computer into an expensive doorstop.
The Beige G3's bus speed was controlled by jumpers, relatively easy to tweak. Newer Macs tend to be hardwired

Green/Red Focus Box Missing and Flicker/Flash on LCD

Greetings:
1) I recently reset my T3i and can't figure out why the center focus box that turns green or red isn't performing as it used to. When I depress the shutter button for AF the box is there but doesn't turn green or red. It also used to stay on the LCD as green as I took the picture which isn't anylonger as well.
What happens now is it does its focus thing without turning colors and then snaps.
2) Also, all info on the screen disappears when I snap. All info meaning the grid I have up, the focus box and all other info ie. histogram and settings that are on the left side of the LCD. If I recall correctly, all info stayed on screen including the focus box green or red.
3) Lastly, the focus box will flash green when I snap the shot but that only happens "sometimes" and not always.
4) One other thing I noticed too is as I depress the shutter button or snap the shot I get a pink flicker on the LCD which wasn't happening before.
Any ideas how to fix these issues?
Thanks in advance.

If the focus points in the viewfinder are blurry then it means you need to adjust the diopter on the viewfinder.
On the upper-right corner of your viewfinder, there's a tiny little wheel. That wheel allows you to adjust focus for your eyes e.g. if you normally wear glasses, it can correct for diopter adjustment as long as it's in the -3 to +3 range (and the vast majority of people are). If you need corrects outside that range, Canon sells slide-on diopters that can go even stronger.
Anyway... to adjust it:
1) Point the camera at something with no contrast... such as a plain white wall... or a solid blue sky, etc.
2) Not required, but I actually think this is easier if you deliberately de-focus the lens -- just put it well out of focus and leave it.
3) Now look through the viewfinder at those focus points and adjust the tiny wheel in the corner until the focus points are as crisp as possible.
The viewfinder is now focused for YOUR eyes. That means when something appears to be sharply focused, it actually is sharply focused.
At this point you should be able to switch on the camera, look through the viewfinder, let it auto-focus on something... and it should look sharp.
Why:
As light enters the lens, there's a specific distance from the front of the lens to the focus plane. There's a special mark on the top of the camera and on your T3i it's left of the hot-shoe ... over by the support ring for the neck-strap on the left side. The mark looks like a line... with a circle in the middle of it. That mark indicates the position of the focal plane (the sensor). When the lens is focused... it's focused to THAT distance.
When the reflex mirror is in the "down" position, it bounces light up at a 90º angle into the pentaprism. But more specifically it's bouncing the image onto the "focus screen". If you remove the lens and look at the top of the camera you will notice a frosted piece of "glass". The distance from front of lens, to mirror, to that "focus screen" is EXACTLY the same as the distance from front of lens to the sensor (when the mirror swings clear.)
This means what you're REALLY doing is projecting the image onto that bit of frosted "glass". You can think of it as a mini "rear projection" movie screen.
Even if the image is tack-sharp on that screen... if your viewfinder diopter isn't adjusted for YOUR eyes then that image would still look a bit blurry. Once you finish adjusting the diopter you'll be able to trust it.
BTW, I noticed your post is about the "green/red" box which implies you may be relying on the live-view display. When you use live-view on your camera it uses a completely different focus system then when you look through the viewfinder. The focus system used when you look through the viewfinder is MUCH FASTER than the focus-system used in live-view mode. If you are having issues with focus speed and delays when trying to take photos... switch to using the viewfinder and it'll be much faster.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Mac Mini and thunderbolt/vga to LCD TV

Hi All,
Here is an interesting one......
I have just taken delivery of 5 new Mac Minis which have the thunderbolt port on them. The Mac Minis each connect using displayport tb/vga adapter to a switch then on to 5 LCD TVs.
The HDMI/DVI is not used.
In this config, if I start a Mac Mini the display will not route through the Thunderbolt/vga adapter to any of the TVs (even though I have selected them on the switch). The display seems to want to go through the default HDMI port.
If I connect a standard PC monitor to the tb/vga adapter and reboot, the screen shows correctly on the monitor. If I then change cables without a reboot, the LCD TVs show correctly!
I can add the PC monitor as a second monitor using HDMI/DVI and ensure that the outputs are mirrored AND that the VGA display is the primary. However, on reboot it's as if the details are all forgotten!
Searching around it seems that there are issues with Mac Minis and VGA connections to LCD TVs. That said, I wanted to put my environment out there and see if anyone had an ideas.
Interestingly enough, with older Mac Minis (without the tb/vga) it works perfectly well, indicating a problem with the new Mac Minis.
Thanks for ANY ideas!!!!

Hey Spost!
You have explained exactly what happened to me last night. I was afraid it was part of the 10.8.3 update or the latest ATV software update that hit this week. I tried from my macbook pro and the airplay from 10.8.3 and the atv software worked fine.
Previously my mac mini was connected to a monitor in my basement but last night i made it "headless" and moved it to my "server closet" airplaying prior to the move worked great ... then last night 4:3 Green Screen.
My guess is the computer needs to be connected to a external display in order for airplay resolution to figure itself out. Via Logmein i could see that the Mirror mode wanted to use the resolution that fit the mac and not what was best for the Apple TV ... Even forcing the change made the setting go right back to this mac.
Looks to be a bug in a plist file that apple would need to fix as many people run headless mac mini's and now wish to AirPlay to their Apple TV's without the need for a external cable run.

Fed up with speed and connection issues since exch...

Last Monday BT done some upgrade work at our local exchange. From that point onwards we have had speed and connection issues.
I use a Belkin G Router rather that the Homehub some that we can run a printer through it and that is plugged in to telephone socket via an extension. But before we blame any of that we have gone back to the Homehub2 so we could see the difference and there is very little.
We live in the countrside so broadband speeds are not great in any case. About 1.8 mg I guess but we have always had no problems. It was good enough for us and we could watch Iplayer.
I was getting fed up with drop outs and speed and yestereday an Openreach guy came out tested everything could not find any problems apart from speed. He made some calls and was told our band width had been capped. He had that removed and yesterday evening speed was a bit better.
Today just as bad again.
Details from router:
Date/Time          January 25 2012 , 21 : 14 : 25
Version Info
Runtime Code version F5D7633-4Av1_UK_1.00.009
Boot Code Version          1.0.37-5.15
Hardware Version           V1.0J3
ADSL Modem Code Version        A2pB015c6
ADSL
Type
Status   No Defect
                Downstream      Upstream
Data rate             287         440
Noise margin     32.3        18.6
Output power   14.8        12.7
Attenuation       58.5      28.9
Figures from speedtester BT
Download speed: 180 Kps
acceptable range speeds is 100 - 250 Kps
DSL Connection rate 286 Kps (DOWN_STREAM) 440Kps (UP_STREAM)
Upstream Test
Upload Speed 346 kps
Upstream Profile 440Kps
Any help would be appreciated
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi Welcome to the forums
Your high noise margin will have a major impact on your speed
If you post the full stats from your router
For homehub – type 192.168.1.254 into your browser
Navigate to ADSL Settings or use the A-Z at the top right of the home page and scroll down to ADSL Settings and click on it
Click on More Details and then post the full results.
also post the full results from http://speedtester.bt.com/
Have you tried connecting to the test socket at the rear of the master socket
Have you tried the quiet line test? - dial 17070 option 2 - should hear nothing - best done with a corded phone. if cordless phone you may hear a 'dull hum' which is normal
also you could try the hints given by poster RogerB in this link they may help http://community.bt.com/t5/BB-in-Home/Poor-Broadband-speed/m-p/14217#M8397
Then someone here may be able to help and offer more advice.
This is a customer to customer self help forum the only BT presence here are the forum moderators
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

HT6114 The update is too big to download at once.Repeatedly I failed to download due to the low internet speeds.Any other way to download in patches and group them later.

The Apple Store indicates one update is available for my MacBook Pro OS X Maverick v10.9.2.But,the same is already shown as installed on 26 April thereitself at the bottom of the APP store.But,i remember it was not fully downloaded then and it was cancelled.The update is too big and due to low internet speeds here,we are finding difficult to download.Can it be downloaded in patches.How?
With Regards
S.ChandraShekhar

The only thing you can do is pause the download. There is no way to divide it into pieces.

I have slow internet speed and having issue with download of photoshop cc is there an alternate I can go somewhere with high speed to download.

I have slow internet speed and having issue with download of photoshop cc is there an alternate I can go somewhere with high speed to download. without using this creative cloud that downloads first.

We need to know more about your system, please download EtreCheck and run the report and please post it on your next reply. Then we can see how your system is configured, what apps are on it and look for anything obvious. We will look forward to seeing your report.

Flash CS5 has a serious speed and crash issue.

Hi,
Works PC.
Dell dual core 3.5Gb ram PC. 1 yr old
Launch time CS5 1 minute.
Opening a file is 1min 10sec, saving a file ditto, copying from lib takes 50 secs, pasting to another library 1min, replace existing item, go yes and it crashes.
Install CS5 trial on home very powerful purpose built CAD and video workstation, expect it to fly, but get same times, at least it doesnt crash first attempt but still terribly slow at everything.
Second time I try this routine it also crashes upon replace existing item.
Try saving files as CS4, they open into CS4 in seconds, wow what a difference !!!!, CS5 obviously at fault as a program, but text on buttons is a mess. so thats no good. Thats text created in CS5 not displaying when saved as CS4. Is this program in fact any good ?
File size of source file is 26Mb, of destination is 21Mb. Source has about 14 movie clips, select these and make a movieclip of them, copy/paste it to library of destination and it crashes.
Works PC reinstall Flash twice trying to resolve this, assuming its the prog, still its got these speeds and it crashes when accepting movieClip into Library. Remove the busy layer and try again and it accepts it, still damn slow. The home PC survived the busy layer paste first time round, suggesting the Office PC is at fault. But now its also crashing.
Has Flash CS5 a complexity limit ? These are map layers with many vector shapes on one of the layers, quite a few on three others. That layer seems to be the straw that breaks the camels back. Is 26Mb beyond the limit. I even upped the preferences for memory to 3000kb but no better.
I see on the forums complaints of CS5 speed on saving, users reverting to CS4. I wanted CS4 but was forced to have CS5 as it had just come out. New progs are not the best move but Adobe bully you.
The speed and crashes are prohibitive for business work, 3 days trying to do a mornings work.
I thought it was the PC but others are finding CS5 slow and crashing. What have we here as a prog...useless ! Adobe. you need to fix this. I would go back to CS4, I have it on home PC, but CS5 into 4 has text issues, unless the Office PC used a font not on the home one.
Envirographics

I still cant realize how this buggy piece of **** could make to the market! After I switched to Flash CS5 it became true headache working on Flash projects:
- in constantly crashes on saving, working with library, exiting;
- trying to create file with FLVPlayback throws dozens of errors with references to the classes that even do not exist in configuration folder nor in preinstalled SWC files that I HAD to reference manually;
- publishing in CS4 files that are published properly in CS5 throws tons of errors even though both reference existing classes and are for the same FP10 version.
- saving FLA for CS4 creates huge source file and compiling this file in CS4 creates SWF with 10x size (~280kb in CS5 and ~2800kb in CS4).
Even though Flash CS5 has some nice improvements in interface and ActionScrip editor which I do like, in general it is a complete DISASTER and huge TIME WASTER!

High noise margin, low speed and repeated drop out...

Hi - I have a Home Hub 3 which is always dropping the connection. Unfortunately it gets re-booted alot as this seems to be the only way to get things moving again. I have just ordered a new router/modem to ss if that will hold the connection better but have been reading these forums and see that the Line Status and Speedtest are a good place to start. My Line Status shows a noise margin of 17.7dB - could this be my problem?
ADSL Line Status
Connection Information
Line state:
Connected
Connection time:
0 days, 03:09:09
Downstream:
7.781 Mbps
Upstream:
448 Kbps
ADSL Settings
VPI/VCI:
0/38
Type:
PPPoA
Modulation:
G.992.1 Annex A
Latency type:
Fast
Noise margin (Down/Up):
4.3 dB / 22.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up):
33.6 dB / 17.5 dB
Output power (Down/Up):
19.8 dBm / 11.7 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 2
CRC Events (Down/Up):
3000 / 5
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
HEC Events (Down/Up):
1907 / 1
Error Seconds (Local/Remote):
794 / 6
Speed Test data via BT Wholesale site
D/L speed 3.78
U/L Speed 0.23
Ping Latency 68.38
and via BT domestic speed test
D/L Speed 5.74
U/L Speed 0.20
Connection Speed 7.97
Do you think noise is my problem and any suggestions please!!
Many thanks in advance
Andrew

Ha - many thanks the quick reply but I am un-masked already as not having a clue what I am talking about! A few hours spent reading up on things before I posted was not enough! I am plugged in to the test socket - have just done the quiet line test on 17070 from a corded phone and there is no noise. A bit of history - 18 months ago we had issues with water damage to underground lines to the house and we are now on the last usable pair (?) at that time I had all extension wiring reoved and new Master socket fitted. We have been OK but not spectacular since - we struggle to have 3 computers running off the net at times and I dont beieve we are getting anywhere close to our expected speed and then recently we have experienced drop outs and really slow speed as mentioned in original post.

Sync lr and lr mobil without creative cloud? Speed up with very low internet speed in China?

Sync lr and lr mobil without creative cloud? Speed up with very low internet speed in China?

The Internet is the only way to synchronize Lightroom and Lightroom Mobile. It's unfortunate that you have a slow Internet connection.

About MSI ms-7255 and bus speed

cpu: intel E6600
memory: Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2 1024
Mobo: MSI ms-7255 chipset VIA P4M890
Hiper Type-R 580W
I bought the MSI mobo and a E6600 today.
I've tried to overclock but everytime I set the bus speed higher then 295mhz I get a warning message when i reboot the computer.
So my friend said 'Hey, Lets flash your bios', so i did that with MSI live update, and everytime i try to overclock my system it wont start so i have to clear the bios (Can't even see anything on my lcd screen).
Btw, i know its not a good mobo to overclock, but atleast it should go about 3ghz or higher.
Anyone now how i can fix this?

read the moan guide. We don't know what you have.

2 Issues: Low Bus Speed and Visable Hairline on LCD

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