720P 24fps DVCPRO HD for SD DVD output

I'm trying to get the best quality, but I am unsure of which settings. Obviouisly I need to go to MPEG2, but should I just use the default settings in compressor for "highest quality?" Thanks in advance!
compressor 2.3

Some threads on workflow/issues
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=8243130&#8243130
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=8060850&#8060850
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7661019&#7661019
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7492165&#7492165
Basically set up a new SD project. Send HD footage through Compressor to make an SD m2v and AC3 files and use those in the project

Similar Messages

FCP Settings for progressive DVD Output

Hello FCP folk,
I'm working on a project that uses still photos as the only visual content, most of these are historic black and white. Wondering if I can take advantage of this and work towards a progressive scan DVD as the final out put.
Project is being edited in Final Cut 5, OS 10.4.3, playback through an ED and HD ready LCD monitor.
I'm wondering what the proper workflow should be to work towards this end. FCP settings? Output from the editing timeline options? DVDSP options ?
Any suggestions appreciated,
Thanks,
Drew

Thanks for that Ann.
I've done small samples at 720 x 25 720 x 50 1080 x 25 1080 x 50 before using Dynamic Link (which I must admit I've found very convenient and effective previously) to set up in Encore and burn without extras such as menus.
Playing back on a 37" TV we can't see a discernible difference apart from a little shimmer on horizontal lines.
I think I'll press ahead with 720 x 25 with this project which is what I've used before and am confident with but would welcome more advice on this topic.
I wonder if these settings would be even more critical should I need to output to Blue Ray
Norman

Settings for SD DVD output

Hi
Is there any advantage in editing in 1080 x 50 if final product will be on SD DVD?
Thanks
Norman

Thanks for that Ann.
I've done small samples at 720 x 25 720 x 50 1080 x 25 1080 x 50 before using Dynamic Link (which I must admit I've found very convenient and effective previously) to set up in Encore and burn without extras such as menus.
Playing back on a 37" TV we can't see a discernible difference apart from a little shimmer on horizontal lines.
I think I'll press ahead with 720 x 25 with this project which is what I've used before and am confident with but would welcome more advice on this topic.
I wonder if these settings would be even more critical should I need to output to Blue Ray
Norman

Sequence settings for PAL DVD output

G'day,
I'm cutting my sister's wedding video. I have footage from 2 cameras - a Panasonic TM900 (1920x1080p50) and a Canon MVX430 (miniDV SD PAL "widescreen").
The intended media is DVD. I am using Final Cut Pro, and DVD Studio Pro.
I've read that I should use a PAL CCIR 601 5:4 720x576 frame size, with PAL CCIR 601 pixels in order to achive widescreen DVD playback.
And this seems right, as when I drag the HD and SD footage to the sequence, they both maintain their 16:9 ratios - with black borders top and bottom.
However once I start playing around with the footage... zooming in (ie increasing the scale in the Motion tab), or if I re-centre the footage, moving it around the frame, those borders move around or are completely lost.
Previously for this problem I have just used the crop function (with key frames as required) in the Motion tab, but that can get very painful.
Am I using the wrong work flow here? Should I be using an actual 16:9 frame from the start, instead of the 5:4 with borders?
Is there an easier way to maintain the borders?
Hope this makes sense...
For the record, I do have some understanding of what I'm doing, just was only taught what I needed to complete the projects I worked on at Uni, so don't have a full understanding of all of the complexities involved...
Thankyou
cosmic

>Should I be using an actual 16:9 frame from the start, instead of the 5:4 with borders?
Yes. Make your Sequence DVPAL anamorphic.
>Is there an easier way to maintain the borders?
Why do you want borders? On a 16:9 TV the screen will be filled. You will only see the borders on a 4:3 set.

Work flow? How to link multi-cam sequences for DVD output?

Pr cs4 (very new)
Still taking baby steps each day... please take my hand and help me!
Final output will be 2 DVD's (each DL) each about 2 hrs. Content are chamber music student groups in two recitals.
I have assets from two camera angles. I have successfully practiced on one of the groups performance (10 min.) following the steps illustrated in a multi-cam tutorial. http://www.adobe.com/designcenter/video_workshop/?id=vid0234
This leaves me with a great multi-cam sequence for that group located in the Project Panel, exactly what I want.
Now, I want to know what is the best method (workflow?) to ultimately produce a DVD containing about 10 of these type performances (one after the other) with chapter markings for each group, titles etc.?
I have yet to use Encore and I'm guessing that is where I'll send the finished edit for DVD production, though I don't know at what step I jump there?
Do I try to create one very long multi cam sequence of all the content, then send to Encore? Or can I create seperate multi-cam sequences (each performance) then link them together, adding transitions and make the DVD? This would be my preference to keep things more manageable, especially with audio synching.
With my practice multi-cam sequence on the timeline, I tried to drag the same sequence from the Project Panel to the end of the timeline to simulate how this would work, but it does not add to the timeline as a clip would.
This is probably childs play for you pro's, but we were all baby's at one time...I just happen to still be one!
Thanks for your patience and advice,
Kenny

Yes I did...now toss me a cookie please.
I am trying to quickly get up to speed in Pr CS4 to get this project completed. In the process, I'm trying to learn and understand the interface and correct terminology so as to make my questions intelligible to a community that posses vastly greater understanding than myself.
Is there anyone who can help with my main question at hand? Namely, how to go about creating a full length sequence (in the timeline) made via the nesting of synchronized multi-camera clips within a new "multi-cam sequence"?
As I said, I have completed a small test sequence in this fashion, nesting clips in a new sequence then using multi-cam monitor to record cuts. Now I need to add about 10 more of these together in a completed sequence to then send to DVD production.
Is this intelligible?
Thanks, Kenny
__0
_ \<,_
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 09:11:06 -0700
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Work flow? How to link multi-cam sequences for DVD output?
please take my hand and help me!
Well, at least you had the gumption to admit that up front.
>

Help Exporting for DVD Output

What is the best way to export my 1920x1080 16:9 timeline for DVD output.
I have tried numerous attempts but the quality on DVD leaves something to be desired.
It looks great when i export it using QT but I also need to have it on a DVD.
Clearly, I am doing something wrong. What settings should i be using?
Sequence Settings
Frame Size: 1920x1080
Field dominance - none
Frames: 30fps
Compressor: ProRes422

First thing you've got to understand is that a DVD is standard definition. It will never be HD quality. That you will lose by encoding to mpeg2.
I'd do the compression in compressor-- try the standard compressions for your length, if those are NG, try duplicating a preset and upping the bitrate. Also, 2 pass vbr with increase the quality, at the expense of compressing time.
This is almost as dark an art as web encoding. Not difficult to do, just time consuming and tedious until you find the correct recipe.
EDIT: I should add that only you and your client can decide what is "good enough."
Message was edited by: Jim Cookman

What compressor settings settings are best for 1080i to output to DVD using DVD Studio pro?

What compressor settings settings are best for 1080i to output to DVD using DVD Studio pro? I used FCP 6, exported using Quick Time.

DVDs are only SD. There was at one time HD-DVDs, which DVD SP and Compressor can make, but HD-DVDs will only play in Macs and, now obsolete HD-DVD players. HD-DVDs will not play back in standard DVD players or Blu-Ray players. If you want to make a "DVD will be played on DVD player for TV" disc, your only choice is SD.
If you want HD video on a disc, then you want Blu-Ray. You will need a Blu-Ray burner (Apple does not make a Blu-Ray burner so you will have to buy a third-party Blu-Ray burner), Blu-Ray discs and software that will make a Blu-Ray disc. That could be the latest version of Compressor, or FCPX, or Toast, or Encore.

Denon Receiver & audio output for PS3 & DVD

We have a Denon AVR-1312 receiver hooked up to our Sony LED HDTV. I have a PS3 hooked up to the receiver via hdmi cable. I have a dvd player hooked up to the receiver with audio cables and to the tv directly with a video cable. For the PS3 I am only getting sound through the TV speaker and not through the receiver speaker. But for the DVD I am only getting sound from the receiver speakers, not the TV speaker. I do have an audio optical cable hooked up from the TV to the receiver. If I am just watching TV I can get sound from both the TV speakers and the receiver speakers at the same time. I'd like to be able to do this with the PS3 and DVD player too, but can't seem to get both working. Any ideas? By the way, I only have two speakers hooked up.

I'm not entirely certain why you would not be getting sound out of the Denon speakers with a PS3 hooked up via HDMI.
As far as the DVD...the optical connection may provide sound for the receiver and TV speakers together. If not, you must split the audio signal coming from the DVD.
Disclosure: Former BBY employee.

Mixed Media: 720p 60 + DVCPRO 50

Hi all,
I've searched the forums looking to answer this question, and may have actually found the answer more than once but have now thoroughly confused myself into a corner, so I thought I should just post.
What would be the best method to work with 720p60 HD footage and DVCPRO 50 footage in the same timeline?
All media has already been captured; recapturing with a hardware/deck/camera-based downconvert is no longer an option. Final output is to an SD DVD, in both NTSC and PAL (for which I'll be using Natress' Standards Conversion).
I've been able to work with both formats in a variety of timelines, including Uncompressed 10-bit, DVCPRO 50 and so on, with each yielding slightly different results (letting FCP handle the rendering required). I'll be slowing down and reversing some clips, doing some desaturating, color correction, and adding grain here and there, so different combinations look better and worse depending on the sequence preset and the format of a particular clip, but none is consistently good for both formats.
I'm assuming the correct way to approach this is to standardize the formats between the two sources -- in this case I'm figuring the best option is to downconvert the HD to a friendly SD (like DVCPRO 50, for example).
Based on one of Shane Ross' posts I tried Media Manager, but I was given a warning that the frame rates didn't match and that I could either abort or preserve the framerate of the source (720p). Is the only other option a time- and drive space- costly conversion via Compressor?*
*Um, yeah, important note: I've already done a bunch of editing on this project, naively (perhaps) believing that I could go about downconverting later on, but I did this thinking that Media Manager could easily convert and replace or create a new project with the downconverted media.
Any advice would be extremely appreciated.
Did I mention my deadline is in two days?
2x2 GHz G5, 4GB RAM; 1.67 GHz 15" PB G4, 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) SATA RAID; G-RAID (x3)

Hey Pat, thanks -- your post gets to the heart of my troubles. (Shane's does too, in the sense of technical specifics, e.g. please forgive any slightly misstated specs in what follows...)
The 16mm footage, which was originally 24 frames per second, was transferred to DVCPRO 50 (interlaced NTSC, 720x480, 29.97) before being captured (and it looks great). The few bits of DV were actually shot PAL (progressive) before being transfered to DV NTSC (interlaced), prior to capture (I had no say here, this is how I received the material -- which, by the way, looked pretty nasty).
The HD footage was shot 720p 60, which I'm understanding means 960x720, 'p' for 'progressive' and 60 frames per second. That last part has confused the heck out of me -- I know it's possible to shoot faster than NTSC's run of the mill 30fps (okay, 29.97), but for some reason I thought this was an unusual circumstance (as if it needed a special camera or tape stock or whatever). I also understand the potential benefits when it comes to shooting a higher frame rate, like if you're planning on doing speed changes (especially slow-mo), but am I wrong to think that 60fps is unusual?
Let me clarify a little. I know 29.97 is standard NTSC video, but according to the info within FCP (and in my bins), 720p 60 means 60 frames per second, not fields per second (which would indeed be 30 frames per second, or 29.97). If, however, the format was called '60i' this would mean that it was indeed 60 (or 59.98) fields per second, giving us 30 (or 29.97) frames per second. Please let me know if I've got this right.
Assuming that's correct, then the 720p 60 is never going to play nicely with the DVCPRO 50. Even if I take the clips that I want to slow down and change their speed in a native timeline (720p 60), those rendered files still won't look good back in the DVCPRO 50 timeline (progressive vs. interlaced, 59.98 fps vs. 29.97 fps). It would seem to me that the best way to deal with this is to take the 720p 60 footage, make the speed changes in a native timeline (BTW, which way: using the speed controls within FCP, or Twixtor, or some kind of Cinema Tools conversion taking advantage of the 60fps?), and then output or convert this clips somehow before placing them back into the non-native DVCPRO 50 timeline. Make sense?
My original hope was that the frame rate would be a minor concern, rendered nicely in the DVCPRO 50 timeline, and I was optimistic by how easily they seemed to mix together prior to making any speed changes. This hope was further dashed by the different results yielded by some of the film effects, like adding grain (which I now have a solution for: make all of my speed changes, finalize my edit, output a final version, then import that movie for applying additional effects, which will no longer vary according to the source footage specs, such as frame size and frame rate). I know it'll wind up being more complicated than this (for example, if I've got a cross dissolve between a 720p 60 clip and a 16mm clip (transferred to DVCPRO 50), applying a 24p film effect to the HD footage must be done independently (since the 16mm clip already has a 24p look to it), output (or rendered?), a then dropped back into the edit before outputting for final effects, such as adding grain).
Phew. Sorry if I've overstated anything, I just want to be clear. Answering any of my questions above would be a huge help... and yes, my time is running out. No pressure.
Maybe I can help things along by restating my questions (simply):
1. What is the best way to apply speed changes, including reversals, to 720p 60 footage?
2. What is the best way to insert speed-altered 720p 60 clips into a DVCPRO 50 timeline?
3. What is the best way to apply a 24p frame rate effect (courtesy of Nattress' Film Effects) to this mix of 720p 60 and DV? (None of the DVCPRO 50 requires this filter because it was all originally 16mm film, which already appears to be 24p)
Thank you for your help so far, and thanks in advance!
P.S. - Sorry, another thought just occured to me. Say my cut is locked, couldn't I also opt to output the edited 720p 60 clips I'm using from a native 720p 60 timeline, then convert these clips using Compressor and re-import them into my project?
I've read elsewhere that Compressor's format conversions are pretty spiffy, if time-consuming, but I'd only need to do this to a handful of relatively short shots. This way I could import the clips as DVCPRO 50 NTSC (interlaced, 29.97, 720x480), then apply other effects to all of the clips (like 24p, grain, etc.)...

Solution for using HDMI output to devices not supporting HDCP

I read a number of similar posts about this issue and wanted to share my experience on it, propose a possible solution and ask if anyone else has already tried it.
Symptom
The symptom is that when playing rented content (some have reported this with purchased content as well, but that's not my experience) *you hear audio, but see either a black or a white screen with no video*.
_My Experience_
I had this problem with my Boxlight Cinema 17SF projector, which is a few years old. It has a DVI input, so seeking to get the best picture possible, rather than connecting the Apple TV to the projector using a component video cable, I tried to use an HDMI to DVI cable. It looked great for TV shows and purchased movies, but when trying to view movie rentals I was hearing audio, but seeing only a black screen. I called Apple support, told them about the problem and gave them my exact configuration, but they didn't have any suggestions to offer beyond restoring to factory defaults and upgrading. I tried this, and tried every possible video resolution and projector setting, but after days spent on it, nothing would solve the problem.
_Background on the Problem_
After reading some posts from helpful users in the Apple TV forum, and after some googling, I found that this problem happens when users try to use an HDMI to DVI cable to connect the Apple TV to an older display device, such as a high definition TV or projector. As it turns out, content played over the HDMI connector is protected using HDCP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDCP, http://www.projectorpeople.com/cables/HDCP_DVI.asp).
Essentially, in order to properly display content, the display device needs an HDCP chipset from a subsidiary of Intel, which older devices do not have (plus for HDMI, HDCP support is mandatory but for DVI, it's optional). If your display device does not have this chipset, or worse yet, if it has the chipset but it isn't compatible with the Apple TV version of the chipset, video content will not display and you'll typically get a black or white screen. Apple must have gotten a number of support calls on this, as I read in a recent post that they no longer support using HDMI to DVI cables to connect your Apple TV to your display device. Aha.
_Component Video_
One of the nice things about component video is that there's no HDCP to worry about. You can use the component video output on the Apple TV to connect to your display device, and you'll be able to view all content. In my case, I'm using a component video to SVGA adapter. It works, and I can view all content, purchased or rented.
Unfortunately, however, aside from component video being an analog rather than a digital signal, the component output on the Apple TV is crippled and only supports 480i resolution. So if you have a high definition device and want to use component video at higher resolutions than 480i to watch your high definition movies, you're out of luck.
Just as an aside, component video looks best for me when I go into the settings and first try to select 720p resolution. I hear two "beep beep" sounds (the same sound as when you try to navigate beyond the end of a menu) and briefly see a menu showing that the Apple TV is canceling the resolution change for me (holy cow that's weak, they crippled this at the interface level), and the Apple TV forces me back to 480i. However, for some reason the contrast is better after this, colors are better and blacks are much deeper. Despite this unexplained oddity which may only be true for my Cinema 17SF DLP projector, the resolution is still limited to 480i.
_Possible Solution?_
After some more googling, I ran into this device called an HDFury at http://www.hdfury.com/. Apparently, it's an HDMI to VGA/component video converter that strips HDCP from the video and allows the use of resolutions up to 1080p. There are two versions, the HD Fury and the HD Fury 2. Although it's pricey, I'm going to give the HD Fury 2 a try. Even though it wouldn't be a digital connection to my projector, at least it should allow me to use 720p or 1080p, in theory.
I should point out that I'm not sure about the legality of this device. Essentially you're removing something that was supposed to be there to prevent people from copying digital content, but regarding this I think a couple of things: 1) It's only an analog output (SVGA or component), so you're not getting the original digital data and 2) you're using this for personal use, or you should be. You're not using it to circumvent the DRM, but only so that you can view the content you've rightfully purchased or rented.
So, *has anyone tried this device with the Apple TV*, or discovered another way to get all available resolutions when displaying on older high-definition devices using DVI or component video? I'll wait a few days for responses, then go ahead and buy one and post again about my results with it. Thanks for any advice.

I have an update on this that should clarify one critical thing and make my original premise about the use of an HD Fury unnecessary (although the content of the post might still be useful). I had thought that the component video output on the Apple TV was crippled to 480i, but it's not.
What was happening to me was that 720p and 1080i resolutions were taking a long time to sync on my projector, so I was never seeing the Cancel/OK menu that comes up to accept the resolution. I thought that the Apple TV was selecting Cancel for me, but it wasn't, it was just timing out because I never accepted the new resolution.
So, if you KNOW that your device supports the resolution you're selecting (such as 720p) and your device is just taking a long time to sync, select the new resolution, wait a second then press down and OK on your remote, even though you don't see anything. You'll accept the new resolution.
However, *if you do this and the new resolution doesn't work, you could be hosed*. I suggest that if this is the case, remember the remote keypresses necessary to back out and reverse the change. For example, remember the number of times you need to press up or down to return to your original resolution, then hit OK, down then OK to go back to a safe resolution, like 480i.
At least now, I'm able to use 720p or 1080i with the component video output, and it works with both rented and purchased videos. It still doesn't work with the HDMI -> DVI cable, but the use of the HD Fury should be unnecessary when the Apple TV component output supports all resolutions.

Sequence settings for importing DVD material

Hi there!
I am about to start a new project that will be shown at a convention on a big screen via projector.
Basically, I have recieved DVD's from around the world that I am supposed to edit into a montage. So far I have been opening them using MPEG streamclip and converting them into Quicktime Files.
Can anyone recommend the best possible Sequence settings to use as well as what Frame Size and Compressor to use when exporting from MPEg streamclip to FCP?
Thanks

use the sequence easy set-up for dv-pal (sweden is pal, yes?)
export your clips from streamclip using dv-pal as the type for PAL dvds.
for ntsc dvds, you need to pull the clips off as ntsc dv/dvcpro then using the advanced section of compressor, convert them to dv-pal.
mix by stirring lightly, put into a greased pan and place in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes or until golden brown.
x

Best video format for converting DVD to NAS for widely sharing

Summary: The article shows you with an easy workaround for
copying DVD to NAS for streaming by ripping DVD to NAS friendly video
format on Mac and Windows
I recently purchased a NAS to store all my music/photos etc on. I
can stream stuff to my iPhone/iPad using the NAS software. What I want
to do is rip all my DVDs (over 400) to my NAS, but I’m not sure which
format to do it in, to play nice with my Apple TV2, Xbox 360, iPhone,
iPad etc. I wanna get some advice as to what format to rip in and what
software to use?
Learn some tips from online, I got know that to copy dozens of DVD movies to NAS,
you need to get the content off the DVD disc as a protection-free and
easily readable element for NAS. In this case, at the first place
powerful third-party software for backup DVD to NAS is what you need.
There are many, many DVD ripping tools on the market. I’ve tired a pile of them.
Brorsoft DVD Ripper
is the best one I’ve tried yet. It is capable of ripping DVD to MP4,
AVI, MKV for NAS streaming with no quality loss; it also enables you to
copy DVD main movies for backup onto NAS in .vob format. And what I’ve
learned is that MP4 would be one best target format for it is fully
compatible with nearly all media devices including iPad, iPhone, PS3,
Apple TV, etc. If you are running on Mac OS X, turn to DVD Ripper for Mac. If you haven’t got the software, download it now and let’s start the conversion.
Ripping and copying DVDs to NAS
1. Launch the DVD ripping program for NAS devices . Then
click "Load DVD" to import the DVD files you want to convert. To select
the subtitles you like, simply click Subtitle and select the one you
prefer. P.S. Before start the conversion, you can choose to backup DVD mian movies.
2. Click Format bar and choose your desired format. To store
hundreds of DVD's on NAS, you can rip DVD to .mp4, or .avi, .mkv, etc
compressed format. And click Settings bar, you can adjust the level of
compression to suit the quality you want.
Tip: If you like, you can click “Settings” to change the
video encoder, resolution, frame rate, etc. as you wish. Keep in mind
the file size and video quality is based more on bitrate than resolution
which means bitrate higher results in big file size, and lower visible
quality loss, and vice versa.
3. Press the "Convert" button to start ripping DVD for NAS streaming.
After the conversion, click Open button to find the output files.
Make sure the wireless network connection is accessible among the NAS
and Apple TV, PS3, HD TV or other media players. Then just enjoy the
high quality DVD movies anywhere anytime.
[quote] movies-videos-convert-tips.overblog.com/2014/02/ripping-dvds-to-nas-how-to-copy-dvd-to-nas-for-streaming.html [/quote]

I've always found encoding with Handbrake and choosing the Apple TV2 preset is an excellent place to start and video encoded using that preset will work on my iPhone 4, 4S and iPad 2.
If the files encoded using that preset are too big for one's taste they can always encoded at a lower average bit rate rather than using the default 'Constant Quality' of 20.
Later on I'm sure the Handbrake group will have an AppleTV '3' preset supporting the 1080p format supported by the ATV3 and iPad '3' but using such a preset would not create a file usable on the iPad 2 or the iPhones.

"incompatible formats" when importing for SD DVD

I used FC to edit and used these settings for AV:
Playback output
VIDEO: Apple firewire NTSC 720 x 480
AUDIO: default
[checked box] Different output for Edit to Tape/Print to Video
VIDEO: HDV (1440 x 1080) 60i
AUDIO: default
Then I took it through Compressor using Dolby Digital 2.0 which is ac3 and MPEG -2 6.2 Mbps 2-pass which has a usage for SD DVD.
Please help!

DVD SP (and other apps) are either non-Universal (older versions) or Universal Versions. Universal is reuqired forr Intel Macs or weirdness can occur (if you get it to run.) 4.2.1 is Universal Binary, so that is okay.
A quick easy check - are you trying to bring a NTSC MPEG into a PAL DVD SP project (or vice versa?) That will cause an issue
Also depending on how you installed things could also be an issue - Final Cut Studio 2 (if an upgrade) seems to have less issues when done as a clean install on an OS that did not have an earlier version installed (of FCP Studio). Leopard also has issues - better to an erase and install of the OS and not upgrade off of Tiger.
Check the NTSC/PAL issue to start, always good to knock off some of the easy ones first as issues...

Best way to downconvert from HD to SD for SD DVD... Help...

Ok gentlemen... I'm some tens of hours into this frustration and have hardly any hair left to pull out.
I'm building a main menu for SD DVD in DVDSP.
The entire menu is a quick time file with all graphics and text included, set as back ground in DVDSP, with the buttons drawn over the top.
So Im in FCP building this video for the background of my main menu. It is a composite of video, some motion graphics, live type some and Photoshop stills.
Im building for SD however I want the menus to appear 16x9 and since most of my footage is HDV 1080i I built everything in 1080i thinking I could down convert after.
my first out put was HDV 1080i60 which is native... what I have been editing and compositing in through out. It looks fine.
I run this 1080i Qt through compressor multiple times trying to convert to DV NTSC 4x3. 720x480 3x2... I try every combination I can think of... crop dont crop letter box, anamorphic... everytime my resulting QT is either distorted or degraded beyond acceptability. the text has fallen apart the video is fuzzy etc. All I want to do is Down convert to SD!
So I bring the original 1080i output back into FCP because I don't want it to have to re-render this monster every-time I out-put. It looks exactly the same when viewed from FCP. I try to do the same thing with QT conversion... same problem.
So next I tried to do it in FCP by simply creating a new sequence with the desired dv settings and making the size conversions and re-rendering. same deal.
I went back to DVDSP and Attempted to create an HD project... new project ... modify the project and general prefrences. I cannot import the original HDV 1080i video output as an asset. the message reads incompatible format.
Question is :
Can anyone recommend to me the method, the format, and the program to convert HDV1080i60 to what ever SD format DVDSP will haphazardly accept... please... anybody.
I realize that some of you would like to know what the specs are on this vast multitude of useless dv QT's that I have produced. unfortunately I do not have the energy to produce such post. J/K I will be glad to supply whatever data i have failed to list here if it will help some on to help me. Ask away...

If your final output is SD, I would set the camcorder to downconvert to DV and capture the footage as DV. Then you don't need to worry about the whole HD->SD thing anymore and things will happen much faster.
Also, if you're creating an asset that will be rendered by DVDSP into a menu by adding buttons, etc, I wouldn't compress it to .m2v prior to importing into DVDSP. The reason is you'd be compressing (i.e. throwing out information) and then adding your buttons and then letting DVDSP recompress the menu again and throw out even more information leading to poorer quality.
Finally, you mentioned your source footage is 16:9 and you want 16:9 menus. Why did you convert to 4:3?

What are best Mpeg encoder settings for making DVDs?

In switching from PP1.5 to CS3 the procedure is different for making DVDs and we have to encode mpeg files that later get picked up by Encore DVD build proces. What are the best mpeg encode settings for making the DVDs?
Thanks,
Chuck Taylor

Question:
If you are doing a video that is small enough that you are not worried about size, what is the absolute best quality encoder settings? Would a Continous Bitrate result in a higher quality file generally? VBR is for trying to make a smaller file I assume.
I'm frustrated with even white letters on black titles that have some flicker. I just don't seem to get the smooth quality I desire.
Should I look at a different encoder?
If you output PP3 to an AVI and then import it into encore, isn't there a reduction of Q. due to the save to the AVI file?
thanks.

720P 24fps DVCPRO HD for SD DVD output

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