A timely bit of security news

Just in time for the Malware & Security Event, MSNBC reports that researchers at Columbia University claim to have "discovered a new class of computer security flaws that could impact millions of businesses, consumers, and even government agencies." The flaw exists in HP printers, and perhaps others, and the researchers claim it could allow criminals to remotely control the printer with a list of horribles that could follow.
Original MSNBC article: http://redtape.msnbc.msn.com/_news/2011/11/29/9076395-exclusive-millions-of-printers-open-to-devasta...
Follow up on InfoWorld: http://www.infoworld.com/t/hacking/security-researchers-say-hp-printers-vulnerable-hackers-180253
==============================
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Mentor, SpywareHammer Academy

HP Press Release: HP Refutes Inaccurate Claims; Clarifies on Printer Security
Microsoft MVP, Consumer Security
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Similar Messages

Bit locker security issues (easy to crack) disk encryption?

Bit locker security issues (easy to crack) disk encryption?
Problem 1: When the PC run I think its too easy to get malicious users (with usb pendrive) or spyware to get the encryption key (fast and easy)
youtube.com/watch?v=0npTlOq6q_0
Problem2:not resistant with bruteforce attacks
youtube.com/watch?v=zvaJxnvbGic
Problem 3: not resistant with boot hacking
Im using DriveCrypt plus pack and searched security issues in bit locker.The bit locker allow you the bruteforce/dic attack easy.I think It would be much safer 1. (I think the keys stored somewhere that is easily read) 2. Do not just be enough password
need a password+file combination to decrypt the disk. DriveCrypt plus pack use a file+password combination if you know the password but you wont have the file you can not decrypt the disk (protect with bruteforce attack).On system boot protected bruteforce
attak you can crash the (boot).If the boot system crash you can not decrypt the disk just the password you need the file+password combination plus to decrypt it. I am not a programmer but I see the BitLocker ( easy security catches to crack the disk encryption).Im
tested DriveCrypt and I can not get the key that easy (Problem 1). I have not tested it in greater depth just trying to (catches to crack software encryption).

Where is your question, sir?
If the question were "is it easy to crack", the answer is "no". Your videos make use of several assumptions and ingredients and permissions that a normal attacker does not have.
"Problem 3" is not clear, please describe what scenario you are talking about.

I have windows 7 64 bit but the new itunes will not install because it can't find itunes64.msi. I have searxhed evertwhere on my pc. In addition, I can't uninstall the itunes and reinstall for the same reason.

I have windows 7 64 bit but the new itunes will not install because it can't find itunes64.msi. I have searched evertwhere on my pc. In addition, I can't uninstall the itunes and reinstall for the same reason. I can't upgrade for my icloud account.

Try the following steps:
1. Go to Microsoft website to fix install and Unistall problems. Click "Run now" from Fix it to remove all iTunes & related installer files:
http://support.microsoft.com/mats/Program_Install_and_Uninstall
Be aware that Windows Installer CleanUp Utility will not remove the actual program from your computer. However, it will remove the installation files so that you can start the installation, upgrade, or uninstall over.
2. You should remove all instances of iTunes and the rest of the components listed below:
it may be necessary to remove all traces of iTunes, QuickTime, and related software components from your computer before reinstalling iTunes.
Use the Control Panel to uninstall iTunes and related software components in the following order:
iTunes
QuickTime
Apple Software Update
Apple Mobile Device Support
Bonjour
Apple Application Support (iTunes 9 or later)
Follow the instructions from Apple article listed here: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1923 to remove all components
3. Reboot your computer. Next, download iTunes from here:http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/ and install from scratch

How do I run a new Ipod on an older 500mhz 32 bit computer? New ipod requires v 10.6.3 or higher which also requires 64 bit or 1ghz speed.

How do I run a new Ipod on an older 500mhz 32 bit computer? New ipod requires v 10.6.3 or higher which also requires 64 bit or 1ghz speed.

http://ww2.cs.fsu.edu/~rosentha/linux/2.6.26.5/docs/DocBook/libata/ch07.html#excatATAbusErr wrote:
ATA bus error means that data corruption occurred during transmission over ATA bus (SATA or PATA). This type of errors can be indicated by
ICRC or ABRT error as described in the section called “ATA/ATAPI device error (non-NCQ / non-CHECK CONDITION)”.
Controller-specific error completion with error information indicating transmission error.
On some controllers, command timeout. In this case, there may be a mechanism to determine that the timeout is due to transmission error.
Unknown/random errors, timeouts and all sorts of weirdities.
As described above, transmission errors can cause wide variety of symptoms ranging from device ICRC error to random device lockup, and, for many cases, there is no way to tell if an error condition is due to transmission error or not; therefore, it's necessary to employ some kind of heuristic when dealing with errors and timeouts. For example, encountering repetitive ABRT errors for known supported command is likely to indicate ATA bus error.
Once it's determined that ATA bus errors have possibly occurred, lowering ATA bus transmission speed is one of actions which may alleviate the problem.
I'd also add; make sure you have good backups when ATA errors are frequent

Cannot access iTunes Store - "connection timed out" or "secure connection failed" issues.

If you are having problems connecting to the iTunes Store to:
(a)     activate a new iPod, iPhone or iPad; or
(b)     re-activate an existing iPod. iPhone or iPad after upgrading the OS for the device,
then hopefully this article will assist.
It is assumed that have encountered the following problem. When you connect your device to your PC the device is recognised by iTunes, but the main window simply displays the name of the device (e.g. iPad). The progress bar at the top says "accessing the iTunes Store", but it stalls and eventually there is an error message saying something like "connection timed out".
There are a number of variants of this problem, but the common thread is that your device is unable to access the iTunes Store to authenticate a new device or after upgrading the OS on an existing device.The first recaction is to check that your Internet connection is ok and that that "itunes.exe" a not being blocked by your Windows or third party firewall settings, but the problem persists.
Having recently experienced this problem and scouring the Internet for a solution, I eventually solved it using the following approach:
(a)     Check that you are connected to the Internet (i.e can browse the web).
(b)     Open iTunes and choose "Run diagnostics" from the help menu and then select the "networking connectivity" option (uncheck the other options) and click "next" twice. A report will show the results with a "green" or "red" dot next to each item. You should see a "green" dot next to the first two items ("Network interfaces verified" and "Internet connection verified"). However there will probably be a "red" dot next to the third item "Secure link to iTunes Store verified".
The important thing to note is that a secure connection could not be established. This is an indication that your wireless security is the problem. It does not satisfy the security level expected by the iTunes Store. It seems that an unsecure connection or one using outdated encryption (such as WEP) is no longer sufficient for the iTunes Store. This may be why the problem has emerged with the most recent versions of iTunes. The now widely used wireless encryption standard WPA or WPA2 is expected.
So you need to check your router wireless security settings and, if you have a PC that uses a wireless connection to the router, make sure its settings match. The following is a guide bearing in mind that there are many different types of routers and Windows OS.
Router
TIP: If you have a wireless connection from your PC to your router, then check your PC wireless security options first to see that "WPA" or "WPA2" are available (see below) as it will be a pain to change your router settings only to discover that your PC does not have the same options.
(a)     Most routers can be accessed using your web browser by typing in the router's address (e.g. http://192.186.1.1). If you don't know the address look at the mannual that came with your router as it will tell you how to do this.
(b)     Once your browser displays the router interface you may be prompted for a username and password. These may be the default factory or ones that you have created previously. If the username or password has not been changed, but you don't remember of know what they are again go to the mannual that came with your router as it will have that information.
(c)     Assuming that you are able to access your router interface, look for the "wireless" tab or menu and a sub-menu or option for the "security settings". They'll be there somewhere. Once you find the security options you can select the encryption level. As stated above, you should choose "WPA" or "WPA2". You will then be asked to create a network key which can be anything with the required number of letters and/or digits.
(d)     Once your finished write the settings down (including the key) as you will need them for your PC if you have a wireless connection to the router. Save the changes (if prompted to do so) and re-boot your router.
PC Wireless
(a)     Again the appoach that you need to take will depend on your OS (XP, Vista or Windows 7), but generally speaking if you go to the "network" on your PC there will be the option to highlight it and right click or choose a "properties" item. I vaugely think this can be done in XP by right clicking the wireless icon in the taskbar and navigating to the dialogue box that shows your network. In Windows 7 you will need to go to the "Network and Sharing Center" and then choose "Manage wireless networks".
(b)     At some point (sorry to be vauge) you will find the wireless network security options for your network. Select the same level of encrytion ("WPA" or "WPA2") and type in the same network key that you chose for your router. Save the changes and your wireless connection should come to life. If not then make sure that you have put in the correct settings before freaking out.
Back to iTunes
Once you are connected to your router again (wirelessly or by lan), then plug in your device and open iTunes. As before it will try to access the iTunes Store, but hopefully you won't have any problem establishing a secure connection and you'll be up and running.
Best of luck!

Something is still blocking iTunes, do you have any other firewall installed?
When you say you removed Norton, to you mean you uninstalled it. An uninstalled Norton security product can still bock iTunes as some of it is left behind.
Several people have found that using the Norton Removal Tool to remove all traces of Norton fixes this problem.
http://service1.symantec.com/Support/tsgeninfo.nsf/docid/2005033108162039?OpenDo cument

Backup recovery from dead Windows 7 32-bit machine to new Windows 7 64- bit machine.

My windows 7 32-bit laptop (Toshiba Satillite) stopped working suddenly due to a damaged motherboard. Having been told that a new motherboard would cost more than a new computer i decided to buy a new laptop. My new laptop (also a Toshiba Satillite) has
windows 7 64-bit installed on it.
Having setup my new laptop, i need to restore some files (Emails, internet favourites etc) from the last backup i made of my broken laptop. This backup was made in November 2011 and is saved on my external harddrive.
Can anyone tell me how i get these files from the backup onto my new Windows 64-bit computer?
Thanks for you help

Hello,
The Windows Desktop Perfmon and Diagnostic tools forum is to discuss performance monitor (perfmon), resource monitor (resmon), and task manager, focusing on HOW-TO, Errors/Problems, and usage scenarios.
Since your post is off-topic, I am moving it to the
off topic forum.
Karl
When you see answers and helpful posts, please click Vote As Helpful, Propose As Answer, and/or Mark As Answer.
My Blog: Unlock PowerShell
My Book:
Windows PowerShell 2.0 Bible
My E-mail: -join ('6F6C646B61726C406F75746C6F6F6B2E636F6D'-split'(?<=\G.{2})'|%{if($_){[char][int]"0x$_"}})

Help -- New Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit BSOD - nothing new installed

I read through the suggested forum questions and found nothing helpful.
My 2-year old Dell XPS running Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit decided three days ago to give me the BSOD (while I was away and the computer was just in idle/sleep since I rebooted just before I went away). It has had no new hardware or software recently installed.
That leads me to conclude it might be an update. Safe Mode and Safe Model with Networking seem to run fine. But even when I Restore to a known good configuration from a month ago, it still BSODs on any updates -- Windows, Firefox, System Mechanic, etc. I even
de-installed Adobe Shockwave since it appeared to have done an update while I was away, but that hasn't helped.
Suggestions?

Hi,
In order to assist you, we will need the .DMP files to analyze what exactly occurred at the time of the crash, etc.
If you don't know where .DMP files are located, here's how to get to them:
1. Navigate to the %systemroot%\Minidump folder.
2. Copy any and all DMP files in the Minidump folder to your Desktop and then zip up these files.
3. Upload the zip containing the .DMP files to Onedrive or a hosting site of your choice and paste in your reply. Prefered sites: Onedrive, Mediafire, Dropbox, etc. Nothing with wait-timers.
4 (optional): The type of .DMP files located in the Minidump folder are known as Small Memory Dumps. In %systemroot% there will be what is known as a Kernel-Dump (if your system is set to generate). It is labeled MEMORY.DMP. The difference
between Small Memory Dumps and Kernel-Dumps in the simplest definition is a Kernel-Dump contains
much more information at the time of the crash, therefore allowing further debugging of your issue. If your upload speed permits it, and you aren't going against any strict bandwidth and/or usage caps, etc, the Kernel-Dump is the best
choice. Do note that Kernel-Dumps are much larger in size due to containing much more info, which is why I mentioned upload speed, etc.
Please note that any "cleaner" programs such as TuneUp Utilities, CCleaner, etc, by default will delete .DMP files upon use.
If your computer is not generating .DMP files, please do the following:
1. Start > type %systemroot% which should show the Windows folder, click on it. Once inside that folder, ensure there is a Minidump folder created. If not, CTRL-SHIFT-N to make a New Folder and name it Minidump.
2. Windows key + Pause key. This should bring up System. Click Advanced System Settings on the left > Advanced > Performance > Settings > Advanced > Ensure there's a check-mark for 'Automatically manage paging file size for all
drives'.
3. Windows key + Pause key. This should bring up System. Click Advanced System Settings on the left > Advanced > Startup and Recovery > Settings > System Failure > ensure there is a check mark next to 'Write an event to the system
log'.
Ensure Small Memory Dump is selected and ensure the path is %systemroot%\Minidump.
4. Double check that the WERS is ENABLED:
Start > Search > type services.msc > Under the name tab, find Windows Error Reporting Service > If the status of the service is not Started then right click it and select Start. Also ensure that under Startup Type it is set to Automatic rather than
Manual. You can do this by right clicking it, selecting properties, and under General selecting startup type to 'Automatic', and then click Apply.
If you cannot get into normal mode to do any of this, please do this via Safe Mode.
Regards,
Patrick

Securing new 2.5" SSD in my MBP

I successfully followed the guide for Upgrading Your MacBook Pro With a Solid State Drive about a week ago, cloning and switching out the Toshiba 256GB SSD (pictured below) that came with my my mid-2010 MBP (I've put the details at the bottom of the post) for a SAMSUNG 840 EVO MZ-7TE500BW 2.5" 500GB SATA III TLC SSD.
Everything was, and is working well. However, when I had to take my laptop with me to the office, I realized I could hear the drive rattling around inside. The same little spacer screws (circled in red, above) that prevented me from storing the Toshiba SSD safely in the 840EVO's box, were also part of what was keeping the SSD in place.
My question: How (if possible) should I go about better securing the new SSD inside of my MBP?
I have the bracket mount on there, and the drive still works fine, but I don't feel all that comfortable having such a loose fit. Ideally, I'd like to keep the original SSD in working condition for other uses, but don't particularly need the screws on there for anything— however, since the guide didn't say anything about taking them off, I didn't want to risk ruining the drive.
Thanks in advance.
My MBP:
MacBook Pro    (15-inch, Mid 2010)
Processor          2.8 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory              8 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Startup Disk      840EVO
Graphics            NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M 512 MB

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SATA-Hard-Drive-Caddy-Optical-CD-Bay-Adapter-/140596245669?pt=PCC_Drives_Sto...
The above one is 12.7 mm thick which is probably the correct thickness for your laptop, the other link I gave you was for 9.5 mm, which may be too thin, measure your optical drive and be sure.
As for the face plate, ask the seller if they are removable so you can exchange it out with the one from your optical drive. Not sure if this can be done though. Consider a USB hard drive caddy and leave the optical bay as it is.

PDF viewing is bit-mapping with new Retina laptop

I have a new Retina MacBook Pro and when I opened a PDF, it is displaying bit-mapped or "crunchy" looking. Do I need to change settings in Acrobat CC?... or in my Mac System Preferences somewhere?

If the mountain does not come to Muhammad, then Muhammad goes to the mountain.
On this basis I wrote a short perl script that increments a number, and constructs a new
filename from the original filename and the incremented number.
Then it copies the original file to the new name and runs Reader or Preview on the new file.
Now I can see as many versions together as I like.
Miklos

TS3771 Older media requires iTunes 32-bit mode but new requires 64-bit mode

So switching to 32-bit mode iTunes works for my older files. But then I have to switch and reopen for my newer files!
Is there a way to solve this without having to keep switching and reopening?

Ah! I found several other people with the same problem in this forum. I followed the suggestion to move iTunes 4 from the "Applications" to the desktop and launch it from there. It worked! I moved it back into the Application folder and its still okay. Thanks! This is a definitely a bug that Apple needs to address quickly.

I have recently experienced "waiting for" many web sites to respond or load. Using Bit Defender security, and both Chrome and Firefox 6. what's up?

I am running Vista. Updates are current. Recently installed Bid Defender security. Have reloaded Firefox 6 several times, Google Chrome also. both browsers say they are "waiting" for either the website, or some ad to respond much more often and longer than before. Any suggestions?

Sorry Tominique, great answer to the question I didnt ask. I know how to add data to my plan.
My point is, my usage pattern has changed little. yet I am using at a rate 5 times what I was before. And I rarely stream content so I know thats not it. And the times I do, does not coincide with those ridiculous usage figures.
I get that having more bandwidth will open a stream "wider" so to speak and cause more data usage in order to get better quality. However, in the case of Audio, that extra usage doesnt even come close to justifying these kinds of figures. Much less when posting at 4am when I am fast asleep.
And forgive me for being a bit curt, but does my post read like I needed to be told that using wifi will save me cell data usage? I know it was pretty long, but at least read it carefully before proposing something so mundanely simplistic.
And Brian68- Yup, I agree Spot on with you on song size. A 10mb song is a 10mb song. Doesn't matter how fast the stream is. I could see music being compressed, but it most definitely doesn't get any bits added just because the bandwidth opens up. lol What? VZW somehow upgraded my itunes match content from 256kb up to lossless? doubtful.

Mail Timed Out; Not Receiving New Mail

I deleted about 200 emails while offline. When I went online, Mail wouldn't bring in my new e-mail though I could see it on the MobileMe webmail page. I checked preferences and it said the Mail had 'timed out'. I tried to quit Mail but the 'quit' in the menu bar is no longer highlightable. I rebooted and same problems. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

Are you following the below steps to integarte your Gmail ID in BlackBerry -
Go to Email Settings icon on your device
Login using using the user name and password (if already set by you)
Under Services click on Email Account
Click on Add An Email Account to integrate any POP or IMAP enable email (i.e.. gamil, hotmial, ISP mail etc)
To create BlackBerry.net ID click on Create A BlackBerry Email Address
Type your preferred User Name and enter your Password for that ID
After every successful email integration you'll receive an confirmation email from Activation Server.
tanzim
If your query is resolved then please click on “Accept as Solution”
Click on the LIKE on the bottom right if the post deserves credit

I am looking to buy an imac, should i wait a bit for a new version to come out soon? I use it for photo and video editing

I have a very old MBP it is almost too slow to edit large files and video on any more it does ok but I am a pro photographer and video guy and I edit a lot
I would like to know if I should get a new imac right now or wait a few weeks incase a new one will come out soon, anyone have any insider info or help? thanks mac rumors says one may come in about 70 days but isk if i want to wait that long

Regarding your dilemma about a new device or using current device i'd have to agree with
please read the Terms of Use, they say:
SubmissionsStay on topic. Apple Support Communities is here to help people use Apple products and technologies more effectively. Unless otherwise noted, do not add Submissions about nontechnical topics, including:
Speculations or rumors about unannounced products.
Discussions of Apple policies or procedures or speculation on Apple decisions.
Now if you really nead advice about a certain product you already have and wish to compare it with a new product you could always ask advice of a sales advisor.
Believe it or not sales advisors are not just for sales only =)
Ask your personal sales advisor nearby your home or the closest apple store for advise about your dilemma.
- so far what i can see is that you're a professional photographer looking for an improvement , now i'm quite positive that you will find your improvement sooner or later wich will make your work alot easier.

Ordered a few books&says problem with payments. My MCard is good bit says security code wrong.

I just ordered about 6 GRE study guides on iBooks. My credit card has more than enough money on it. It keeps saying my security code is wrong but it isn't. Is there an overall daily price limit or is my credit card causing the issue. If its my card, why would it say the security code is wrong? I have never had an issue before ordering books. It actually JUST let me order and download 5 GRE study guides already and no problems in the past either. I re-entered my card # and security code a few times and made sure it was correct and it still says the code is wrong. Obviously it just worked so why not all the sudden. Could they think it's fraudulent downloads because I downloaded so many just now? Is there a monetary limit that anyone knows of? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Call your credit card's customer service number, probably located on your credit card. They will have a record of all transaction including failed transactions. They will tell you exactly why your card is being denied.
We are just Apple product users. We have no insight into your credit card transactions.

How can I extend the time I am timed out on the new Firefox version?

The new version of Firefox which I recently installed times me out after a very short period of time. I can I extend the time that Firefox times me out to at least one hour of inactivity.
== This happened ==
Every time Firefox opened
== right after I installed the new Firefox version today

If you have an Exchange account on your iPad for which the admistrator has specified a limit on how long you can set the auto-lock, the only way to change it is to remove the Exchange account. Once you put the Exchange account back on, the restriction will be back in place. Apple has nothing to do with this.
Exchange admistrator often require that devices be passcode protected and that the device will autolock so they delete the "Never" setting.

A timely bit of security news

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