Adding Crop Marks in CS4 with an Epson 3800

I'm using CS4 with the Epson driver version 6.50. Is there a way to automatically add crop marks? Just seems that this *should* be a feature or an action.
RON

Just found it.

Similar Messages

  • Adding crop marks to a documents with bleeds & save as EPS

    Working on Adobe CS6
    A sign maker has asked me to submit my artwork for different signs (quite a few of them, in different-sizes) as EPS with crop/trim marks.
    For instance: The size of this sign is 24"x24" with a .25" bleed.  The Artboard shows the right size, and the crop marks show uo as they should.  But once I let go of the Artboard, no crop marks show on my screen.
    Any crop mark I try adding via the Object ("Create Trim Marks") or Effect menu for crop marks, both cases would create them around the BLEEDS, rather than the REAL ARTBOARD, which, of course, defies the purpose of a crop or trim mark...
    I usually submit files for production saved as PDF w/bleeds & crop marks, but this sign maker wants them as EPS.
    Is there a way around it, other than create those marks manually?....
    ...Thanks.

    Set your artboard to the size of your sign and save the file as a pdf with "Trim Marks" checked and the bleed settings where you want them.
    Open the resulting pdf in acrobat and save as an .eps
    Open in Illustrator to verify that you're cross-marks were preserved.

  • Adding crop marks and registration Urrrrrrrr.... CS3 Mac

    Hi,
    I think I have been working longer on trying to add crop marks and bleed to a business card then actually designing the artwork. Adobe really pisses me off with these PDF, Illustrator nonsense. Why is it SO complicated to add crop mark and registration marks to send to a printer?
    When I add a "Crop Area" in AI why it's not included when I export to PDF press quality? why do I need to start going through the crazy Acrobat Advanced menu? add printer marks... resize the page using the Crop Pages option... and then loosing my bleed background.
    Is there a simple way to do this?
    Thanks
    Mic

    Hi guys, you're really going about the whole thing wrong...as a prepress person I need to impose your designs to get best efficiency on the press. I will proably delete all your marks anyway and add my own.....however, my imposition programs use the HIDDEN crop, trim and bleed boxes in your artwork. If you make a huge page in illustrator and plonk your art somewhere arbitrarily in the centre I have to mess arounf for a few minutes to try to work out where your boxes lie. I am pretty careful, but I cannot guarantee other operators out there so you will probably start at the press with an error tolerance before you even start printing.
    The correct way to use the adobe programs is to define the FINISHED size (for business cards we generalise at 90x55mm). Then in the setup section you define your bleeds and slugs. Design your cards on that artboard (and add as many artboards as you want). Then when you are finished EXPORT to PDF (and make yourself a saved preference for this to make it a 1 step process) using the marks options in the side panel. Your new PDF file is perfect finished art for your printer and we can impose to our hearts' delight knowing the correct boxes are in the meta data and our programs will be 100% accurate.
    Now some of our clients need to show multiple cards up on a sheet to their clients so do not like this...but there is a trick. All you need to do is pull out an artboard around all your smaller cards. Take note of what artboard number this one is. Then all you do is export to pdf and only put that number into the Pages to be exported dialog (and put the other pages into the  finished art file being sent to your printer). The one going to your client can have manual trim artwork added but clients don't need rego or colour marks so don't worry.
    Everyone happy and really easy to do as this is how the program was built to be used
    Good luck

  • Adding crop marks in jpeg export

    Hi All,
    Is is possible to add crop marks in jpeg export similar to what we have in pdf export.
    I see SnapshotUtils class but could not see any method to set crop marks.
    What I need to do to set crop marks?
    Regards,
    Alam

    Well, since there is no Crop Marks option when doing a JPEG Export (Snapshot) by hand, I would be very surprised if there were a plug-in API for it.
    So I think you'll have to add your own Crop Marks before you do the JPEG Export. It isn't really that hard ... just a little tedious. You can get the general idea from the CropMarks.jsx script that comes with InDesign.

  • Printing with Photoshop CS4 with Older Epson Printers

    I am looking at upgrading to Snow Leopard, but having had some trouble with Leopard and CS4 working well with my older Epson printers (Stylus Pro 4000 and Stylus 1280) I am somewhat hesitant. Has it been established that the older Epson printers are fully supported by Snow Leopard?

    I am about to install CS4 with OS 10.5.8. Before I get in to a new set of issues, I thought I would post what currently is working for me with CS3. I have been using Gutenprint 5.2.4 to print to my ancient but beloved Epson Pro 9500. When I first tried Gutenprint 5.2.4 with the basic settings, the prints were washed out and pink.It took me two weeks of trial and error in terms of tweaking settings, but I am now able to get better prints than with the old Epson driver that only runs in OS 9, using PS7--but I still keep a G4 with true 0S 9 to print photos to maintain consistency with previous printed work that has been editioned and sold. What forced my move to OS X and Gutenprint was that new photos that I had worked on in PS CS3 and then opened in PS7 did not print--or rather, lost info and then printed as dark green, which others have mentioned elsewhere in discussions of OS and software compatibility issues. Photos that were originally worked on in PS CS2 or earlier are still printing just fine, so in my case at least it appears to be a compatibilty issue between different versions of the PS software that is producing the green. For good info on what all the Gutenprint settings do, see http://osdir.com/ml/linux.printing.gimp-print.devel/2006-01/msg00035.html
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  • Adding Crop Marks in PSE6?  How to?

    How do I add Crop Marks?  If it is possible, can I also set the bleed at .125"?

    Thanks Barbara.  Is PSE similar to PS in that you go to File>Print>Output>then you click the box that says "Corner Crop Marks."  Is there then a button that says BLEED when I can manually set the Crop Mark bleed? 
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  • Scripting newbie...help for a "simple" crop mark script

    Hello,
    I am after some advice or assistance on the scripting side of things for indesign please.
    Basically where do you start? I'm wanting to do some scripts to speed up some repetitive processes.
    What I'm trying to do initially is (what I'd think would be) a very simple script. Basically it's adding crop marks to document, with the horizontal ones running the full width of the document. I've just no idea where to start...
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    1. Find document size
    2. Add a horizontal line at 0.1 pt size,
    Length = document width + 20mm
    X axis =  document width divided by 2 (line sits centrally, hanging 10mm over left and right edges)
    Y Axis = 0mm
    3. Add a horizontal line at 0.1 pt size,
    Length = document width + 20mm
    X axis =  document width divided by 2 (line sits centrally, hanging 10mm over left and right edges)
    Y Axis = document height
    4. Add a vertical line at 0.1 pt size,
    Length = 10mm
    X axis =  0mm
    Y Axis = -2mm to -12mm (bottom line sits at -2, top of line at -12)
    5. Add a vertical line at 0.1 pt size,
    Length = 10mm
    X axis =  document width
    Y Axis = -2mm to -12mm (bottom line sits at -2, top of line at -12)
    6. Add a vertical line at 0.1 pt size,
    Length = 10mm
    X axis =  0mm
    Y Axis = document height + 2mm, to document height +12mm (top of line sits at document height +2mm, bottom of line at document height +12mm)
    7. Add a vertical line at 0.1 pt size,
    Length = 10mm
    X axis =  document width
    Y Axis = document height + 2mm to document height +12mm (top of line sits at document height +2mm, bottom of line at document height +12mm)
    For the future I am wanting some more complex scripts but this will hopefully help me understand a little bit.  (I will need one with input tables where you can add variables if that's do-able, but i somehow think it wont be me doing that one!!)
    Thanks in advance for any help or pointers.
    Phil

    As said above, we can walk you through a custom script step by step
    Let me get you started with this: the ESTK Help -- or one of its variants -- is your biggest friend!
    "1. Find document size"
    Use app.activeDocument.documentPreferences.pageWidth and app.activeDocument.documentPreferences.pageWidth for these.
    "2. Add a horizontal line at 0.1 pt size,
    Length = document width + 20mm
    X axis =  document width divided by 2 (line sits centrally, hanging 10mm over left and right edges)
    Y Axis = 0mm"
    app.activeDocument.graphicLines.add () adds a new graphic line on a default position. You can then move it into position.
    Doing the math results in this little script to add the first line:
    newLine = app.activeDocument.graphicLines.add();
    newLine.paths[0].pathPoints[0].anchor = [ -20, 0 ];
    newLine.paths[0].pathPoints[1].anchor = [ app.activeDocument.documentPreferences.pageWidth+20, 0 ];
    newLine.strokeWeight = 0.1;
    newLine.strokeColor = app.activeDocument.swatches.item("Registration");
    newLine.strokeStyle = app.strokeStyles[0];
    A 'line' can consist of a number of paths (consider a compound path), but usually has only one single path. A new line only has two endpoints -- the anchors --, and you can move these around by setting the coordinates with an array of [ x y ] values. Important: These values are in your current measurement units! I'm assuming, for convenience, that you have mm for this. If you see 20 inch wide lines popping up, you know why :-) Another important point: the rulers' zero point must be in the top left of your document. All "absolute" values are relative to this zero point.
    It is perfectly possible to have the script set the correct measurements and move the zero point for you, but now you know why it has to do that.
    Notice you don't explicitly move the center of the new line; in this case, it's easier to immediately move each end point into its correct place.
    There are a few other things you can do to make the script misbehave. The new line is created with the active defaults in your document. You could have the script change the defaults to the correct settings, but that's not really user friendly. Instead, you can change everything by applying new values to the new line only. You can see I set its weight, color, and stroke style.
    A few points on these latter three settings:
    Didn't I just tell you all values are in current measurement units? Well, line widths are always in points (as is font size and line spacing).
    The correct line color is grabbed by asking for a swatch called "Registration" -- you might want to replace this with another swatch name.
    The stroke style is grabbed by blindly using the very first stroke style in InDesign. I found out the hard way using "Solid" (or what is it called) does not work across different languages. Much later I learned there is a language-independent way of using the names, but hey, that's harder to remember.

  • Illustrator CS4 & Crop Marks

    Hi,
    I really would like to know if it´s possible to change the colour of the crop marks.

    Just to make sure we are on the same path sort of speak.
    You have selected an object, used the EFFECTS / CROP MARKS to get the crop marks.
    NOW
    With the obect still selected go to OBJECT / EXPAND APPEARANCE.  This makes the marks a selectible object that you can modify, including changing the colors.

  • Crop Marks – is this how they work?

    I haven't had to use crop marks before – my books have been printed on sheets the same size as the InDesign page. Now however, I am about to print a small book, 4-Up, on sheets larger than the page size, so I will need to add crop marks. I want to run my understanding of how to place crop marks on the page and how they will be used by the guillotine man, past some of the experts on this forum.
    And before anyone says: "Crop marks are the printer's job. Just let him do it", or somesuch comment – in this case it's not the printer's job, it's mine. I've chosen to do everything: the writing, the layout, purchase of the paper (910 x 650 sheets), the cutting of the paper, the imposition, the printing, arranging the cutting of the sheets, and then the binding. So, I need to know about crop marks. This is what I have discovered, or guessed (please correct me if I'm wrong):
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    Crop marks of 5.3mm in length (5/12"), are placed at the four corners of the new page pointing inwards to the original page size. Thus, in this case, there is a gap of 5mm, the chosen offset, between the end of the crop marks and the original page. This offset allows for movement of the sheets during printing, so that when the crops are made the crop marks won't appear on any of the pages. i.e. the offset is greater than the expected sheet movement.
    The guillotine man, when he comes to cut the sheets, lines up the narrow beam of light from the guillotine with one of the crop marks – and cuts that edge. Now there are only two crop marks left because two have been cut off in this first cut.
    The guillotine man then rotates the sheets 90º and cuts again. Now there is only one crop mark left.
    The sheets are again rotated, the beam of light lined up with the remaining crop mark, and the third cut is made. There are no more crop marks left.
    For the final cut, the sheets are rotated 90º, but as there are no crop marks left, the appropriate dimension has to be entered into the guillotine (or marked out on the top sheet), and the cut is made.
    I have yet to confirm with my guillotine man that steps 3-6 describe how he will do it. That's simply how I imagine it would happen. And in the case of 4-Up, a couple of extra cuts will be needed in the centre, depending on how the imposed pages are positioned.
    Is the above an accurate description of how crop marks are inserted and how they are used?

    Thanks for the responses.
    Stix: Personally if adding Crop marks in InDesign (I prefer to use an imposition program) I like to make them even numbers, e.g. 3mm offset and 7mm long crop marks, whoch give a PDF size that is bigger by 10mm on each side.
    Yes, it would make it easier if numbers were whole integers. But how do you tell InDesign to make a certain-length crop mark? I assumed it was fixed at 30 point (5/24" = 5.292 mm).
    cdflash: I'm sure there are good answers to all of these questions but they are not in the opening post.
    I tried to keep my question as simple as possible, hence I didn't elaborate. But to answer some of your queries…
    Or is the OP going to impose each sheet with 24 pages to view?… I am imposing using only InDesign using a method I developed. It's a very flexible method and works beautifully for 2-Up and 4-Up. Some of the imposition software I trialled several years ago was highly sus and not capable, for example, of generating variable-length signatures. I suppose the up-market programs would be okay, but I can't justify spending thousands on a program I might only use a few times.
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    How many pages are in the book? How many copies of the book are required?… Size of Coracina is 148.5mm x 191 mm, 128 pages, 50 copies. The figures I gave for page size were examples only.
    … and impose so that the pages get cut out as single pages and then hand-collated?… Printed sheets are 4-Up on SRA3. I chose SRA3 late in the piece when the printer told me that the click-charge was the same no matter what the paper size. Prior to that I was intending to print on A4. Printing costs are now halved.
    Why is the OP handling this and not the printer?… I like a challenge, I like to be in control of the process, I like to learn, and I like to save money.
    Tanksinker
    Check out the images at the bottom of https://sites.google.com/site/tanksinker/Home/max-burns-tanksinker if you'd like to see how I make a book. Doing it all myself results in huge savings. Tanksinker cost me about $10,000 all up, only half of which I got back in sales. It's a hobby. I don't expect or want to profit from it. To print 50 copies of Tanksinker commercially, judging by what a local offset printer told me, would have cost $50k-100k for the plates alone (2 proofs, 400x4 plates each proof, $20-30/plate).
    Coracina
    I have been to see the guillotine man after reading all the posts above, and he confirmed that the crop marks I was using would be suitable (I just drew them on a piece of paper; I didn't show him the real thing). He did make a useful suggestion: he would trim the SRA3 sheet along the top and bottom of each book-spread (4 horizontal trims), but not trim to the left and right crop marks (vertical trims) because that would be done anyway when trimming the fore-edge after the book was sewn and glued.
    A sample page of Coracina, with crop marks ready for printing, can be downloaded here: http://www.mediafire.com/?5eidx1c61o7jrjx
    Printing of the first three copies is tomorrow morning, Tasmania time. If the crop marks on the sample, or any other aspect of the layout looks in any way sus or likely to cause problems, please let me know.
    Oh, and I should add that Coracina is my partner's book. Way too girly for me. I'm just the technical consultant, shall I say.

  • Adobe Illustrator CC 2014 - Custom Crop Marks?

    Hello all,
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