Advice needed for replacement battery for G3 12" Dual USB ibook

I need to buy a new battery for my 12" iBook, a 600 MHz G3 model, dual USB, vintage 2001. The online Apple store has something called an Extra Battery - iBook 12.1", which is a 50-watt-hour battery. However, when I phoned the Apple store to order one the salesperson insisted that these would only work in the newer G4 version of the iBook. I queried this because there is no mention of a restriction on the processor in the description in the online catalogue, only that the machine should have two USB ports. He suggested I call the Applecare technical helpline, which I did, but the engineer there wasn't sure if the battery would be compatible either, which I find surprising since they must service and repair these machines all the time. He said it might work but there was no guarantee and the increased capacity of the newer G4 battery might damage my power adaptor, which I also find surprising. He said my machine was now too old to get a new battery. I have also looked at ifixit.com in my search for answers, which seems to suggest that the 12" iBook G3 and G4 batteries are interchangeable provided you don't mind having the wrong colour rubber foot on that corner of the laptop.
If there is anyone from Apple who monitors these posts I would be grateful if you could give me the definitive answer about the compatibility of the iBook Extra Battery available from the Apple online store before I order one, as it would be a rather expensive mistake to make if won't work or if there is a risk it would damage my machine.
Many thanks
Peter

The iBook G4's battery is absolutely fine in the iBook G3 (Dual USB). In addition to the rubber foot being a different color, the battery casing is a bit different finish, too, but it will work absolutely fine.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/powerbook/battery/ibook-g3-g4-12inch/

Similar Messages

What Do the Four Battery LEDs on My Dual USB iBook Mean?

I am struggling with some battery problems, but I'll not bore you with those travails right now. Instead, I have a simple question:
What is the significance of the LEDs and the button on the bottom of my iBook battery?
I have searched the web and the Apple website, but I can't find any documentation about these battery features.
Thanks in advance.

Have you tried the battery calibration suggested by Dennis Marsden when he linked to the Apple Knowledge Base article on the procedure?
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86284
Have you tried resetting the PMU? The PMU (Power Management Unit) controls the charging function, so resetting it may help.
If neither of these procedures helps, chances are you need a new battery. The Washington Post reports that the typical lifespan of a lithium-ion battery is two to three years, whether it is used or not. You may be seeing symptoms of a battery at the end of its lifespan.

I have 2010 macbook white 13 inch and need a replacement battery - where can i find the specs needed for the replacement?

I have 2010 macbook white 13 inch and need a replacement battery - where can i find the specs needed for the replacement?

The model 6,1 Late 2009 and the model 7,1 Mid 2010 use an A1331 battery. You can replace it yourself or have Apple do it for you for $129. If you need it quickly make sure you order it from a U. S. seller. Orders from China can take two or three weeks.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=macbook++battery+a1331&_sacat=0&_odkw=macboo k++battery+a1342&_sop=12&_osacat=0
Here's installation instructions. You'll need a Tri Wing Y1 screwdriver in addition to the usual #00 Phillips screwdriver.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Unibody-Model-A1342-Battery/1667/ 1

I don't have phone, but the TV says I need to replace battery backup for phone?!?!?!

Hello,
For three years, we've had Verizon Fios Internet and TV. We've never had a phone.
Today, the contraption Verizon plugged in the wall (sadly, I'm not really sure what it is, and had forgotten it existed until today as it's tucked behind some furniture) started beeping and the replace battery indicator light is on. Furthermore, when I turn on TV, I am greeted with this message:
My questions are:
(1) If I don't have phone service, why would I even have a battery backup (much less need to replace it) to allow phone service during power outages?
(2) Since I have only internet and TV, can I safely go without replacing this battery?
(3) If the answer to #2 is yes, then how do I get the thing in the wall to stop beeping every 30 minutes?
Thank you in advance to any responses.

You can unplug the battery in your optical network terminal (ONT) and the message needing to replace the battery will go away. Verizon customer service did confirm the battery is only for phone service when power is off.
I was only able to find 3 links on the alarm / battery backup. It looks like they never thought about people who did not want the phone feature and to silence the beeping with the battery removed?
I don't know how frequently my unit beeps, but I don't normally hear it because it is in my garage. I don't know if it has a pattern to when it beeps; but when I'm in the garage, I sometimes hear a single loud beep for about 1 second.
I imagine the battery must enable the laser to function when the power is off besides supply power to the copper phone lines in your house for a line powered phone. I would assume then that if one had a UPS to power the computer and router and a good battery in the BBU; then one could have an internet when the power is off too? Verizon user manuals don't mention this, so it might not work?
Links on the audio alarm of the BBU (battery backup unit): http://www.verizon.com/support/residential/internet/fiosinternet/general+support/getting+started/que...
http://www.verizon.com/Support/Residential/tv/fiostv/general+support/new+to+fios+tv/questionsone/121...
http://www.verizon.com/support/smallbusiness/internet/fiosinternet/general+support/getting+started/q...

Advice needed for backup strategy for office

My office is switching from PC to Mac (yay!) and I'm in charge of setting up the system. We'll be using 4 iMacs and a Mac Mini Server with ethernet connections. I'd like to ask what is recommended for backing up these computers.
My thought would be to back up the iMacs separately from the server - is this definitely the way to go?
I'm thinking to get a 3TB Time Capsule for the 4 iMacs so that Time Capsule will do automatic backups.
- Is it OK to have 4 iMacs backup to one Time Capsule like this?
As for the Mac Mini server, I'm not sure how to best back it up.
Since it has two 1TB drives, I'm thinking of using one drive for data and having it automatically backup to the other internal drive. Any thoughts on this idea?
Or, it is possible to connect an external USB drive to the Time Capsule's USB port, and have Time Machine backup the server to the external drive?
Any advice is greatly appreciated!

The TC is really a home solution.
For business I think you should consider something extra.
Although 4 computers and a server is not a big setup, it is worthwhile doing a more professional backup and use something more professional than Time Machine.
For instance..
http://www.retrospect.com/au/products/mac
I have not used it.. but I see it recommended in business / larger installs. It is not cheap but well worth considering.
I would not use the internal disk of the server for backup.
As for the Mac Mini server, I'm not sure how to best back it up.
Since it has two 1TB drives, I'm thinking of using one drive for data and having it automatically backup to the other internal drive. Any thoughts on this idea?
You can raid the two disks if you don't need the capacity.
But backup to a USB drive plugged in.. USB3 drives are cheap and speedy. Much more reliable than using network drives.
Raid for integrity of working data.. backup to separate change over disks.
So weekly you change over the USB drive for backup and store the other one at home.
I'm thinking to get a 3TB Time Capsule for the 4 iMacs so that Time Capsule will do automatic backups.
- Is it OK to have 4 iMacs backup to one Time Capsule like this?
You can do this.. It is fine to have 4 Macs backup to it. But if you are not using the wireless router it is a waste.. you can just backup over network to the server.. TM works fine on network.
You can buy another 3TB USB drive for backup of the clients.. normally though you want all the working data on the server and back that up. You are thinking a more peer to peer model.. once you introduce the server you can work on a more server client model where the current files are held on the server.

Advice needed for alternative to HH3 adsl

Hi all
I am having problems with my HH3 and need to replace it
I am looking for an alternative such as aTP-link
My needs are quite simple but it must have a good WiFi range I live in a fairly isolated rural spot and am not likely to be able to ever get infinity / cable in the near or even distant future so I am stuck with basic Broadband which I get quite a reasonable dowload speed of aprox 8MBPS
any suggestions ?
IE I want something better than HH3
Regards
Mike

What about this one, its used by othe forum members?
TP-LINK TD-W8960N 300 Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router for BT Connections £26.99 Amazon
Guide is here.
http://forumhelp.dyndns.info/hardware/TP_link/wa8960/adsl/td8960adsl.html
There are some useful help pages here, for BT Broadband customers only, on my personal website.
BT Broadband customers - help with broadband, WiFi, networking, e-mail and phones.

Need a replacement battery

Hello,
I have a macbook unibody aluminum from late 2008. My battery is in a poor state, lasts about an hour and a half tops and is in a "replace soon" condition. I was wondering where I could purchase a replacement battery and how much that would cost me. I seem to have trouble to find these spare parts.
I would be thankful to anyone who is willing to guide me. I am not sure yet if I am willing to replace the battery, it will strongly depend on the prices.
Thank you,
Esujko

If you want to replace your battery you can get one fairly cheap on eBay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=aluminum+macbook++battery+A1280&_sacat=0&_od kw=aluminum+macbook++battery+A1278&_sop=12&_osacat=0
Or for $129 from Apple http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB771LL/A/rechargeable-battery-13-inch-macbook -aluminum
MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008)
Removing the battery:
Shut down the computer. Disconnect any cords connected to the computer.
Turn the computer over.
Locate the access door latch.
Push down to release the latch, this sets it in the open position, and remove the access door that covers the battery.
With the latch still in its open position, gently pull up on the battery tab to remove the battery.
Note: The latch must be in its released, open position to remove or replace the battery and access door.
Installing the battery:
To replace the battery, make sure the latch is in its open position.
Hold the battery at an angle and slide the lipped edge of the battery below the brackets on the outside edge of the battery bay. Gently press the battery down.
To replace the access door:
Line the access door up with the bottom case and the tabs in the battery bay.
Lower the access door into place.
Make sure it is level with the bottom case of your MacBook.
Press the latch into place, so it is in the closed position.

Extra cooling needed for G4 MDD Dual 1.25 w/Radeon 9800?

I'm juggling graphics cards in my G4s. Some months back, I received a G4 MDD Dual 1.25 with a Radeon 9000. I migrated all my stuff from my G4 Digital Audio over to that, including my GeForce 4Ti card, and after some downloading of drivers, I was able to get the G4 DA running with the 9000.
A short time ago, I recieved a G4 MDD Dual 1.0 Ghz with a Radeon 9800 Pro 128M card (that's what the label says, anyway...). Two things were a little different, and they are what prompt my question. First, one of the PCI slot "covers" had been removed. This could simply be that the preior owner removed a card they needed for something else, of course. And second, there was rather a lot of foam (like for chair cushions) stuffed in places. I'm thinking that was to quiet the machine down.
So anyway, if I move the 9800 into my dual 1.25, will I need to "help" the cooling in any way? I'm thinking not, but since I've never dealt with these cards before, then perhaps there is common knowledge out there I'm unaware of.
Then, I'll have a G4/DA with 1/2Ghz Sonett processor & GeForce 4Ti, and a G4 MDD Dual 1.0 Ghz with Radeon 9000 to move on to new owners...

The Radeon 9800 is a warm card, but it isn't so terrible that the MDD can't use one.
The most important step for keeping the DP MDD cool is to enable Nap mode using CHUD:
567DFEE3-A0A8-4602-9722-FCFCD76D8837.html
Another important task is to replace the thermal compound on the Radeon 9800.
The cards are all older than the thermal compound was meant to last.
16196A0F-952B-47ED-A9F9-91F7B0ECA431.html
and
C874D84E-96DD-4DFF-9566-7C66BE065BB5.html
Use Arctic Cooling MX-4.
Also use it on the processors to get additional cooling benefits.
Use of Nap mode and replacement of the thermal compound should be all that is required to avoid heat issues.
The following are all additional cooling ideas to consider.
The mention of a PCI cooler is a good one. Placed along side the Radeon, it can help to rid the case of hot air produced by the graphics card.
This one is good help with minimum noise:
http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-cyclo-blue-slotcooler.html
The Radeon 9800 has a minimalist fan and heatsink.
The aluminum heatsink doesn't disipate heat as fast as copper, and the fans tend to bake out and fail.
Replacement with a third party cooler is a good idea, but the design of the MDD makes that difficult.
This little Vantec cooler is a good option for the 9800 in a MDD which has the memory slots filled:
http://www.vantecusa.com/en/product/view_detail/95
If the memory slots have two 1 GB DIMMs installed in the two slots furthest from the graphics card, then this cooler is fine:
http://www.vantecusa.com/en/product/view_detail/97

Advice Needed for Coding FCP Plugin's

This will be my first attempt at coding anything for FCP and I am hoping to get some advice on how to proceed and where I can get technical information.
Project 1: Create a plugin to add a selection to the Canvas/Viewer Overlay windows - just under "Show TimeCode Overlays", or there abouts. The option will allow the visual display of the embedded DV Date/Time stamp on the tape, in the same fashion as Time-code is overlaid. As far as I have been able to find, this plugin does not exist yet, so I thought I would give it a shot.
Project 2: Create a plugin to enhance "DV Start/Stop Detect" to label markers with the embedded DV Date/Time code. i.e. Instead of "Segment 1" the marker would be labeled "20070131 19:15:45", assuming of course, a valid date/time existed, otherwise default back to "Segment xx".
But, I guess my first question would be, would these be "legal" projects to pursue. i.e. Is there an API to modify the functionality of FCP in this manner?
I know the DT is available as CatDV has no problem reading it, so I figure FCP should be able to as well.
I figure I will need:
1. Info on how the DT is encoded (hex) in the stream
2. FCP API info
3. Editing app to put the code together.
4. Forums that deal with Mac and FCP coding discussions.
5. Any other advice ANY ONE would like to give.
I have a BSc in Comp Sci and coded on the Main Frame for 15 years, so I have "basic" coding skills, but I have not coded on the Mac yet. I have registered for the FREE Developer Account, but haven't had a chance to explored the service yet.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
ASIDE: I have been editing in FCP since v1 and I shoot events with multiple cameras, sometimes hiring additional cameramen (with their own gear). Because, the events I shoot are usually live "one-of" events like weddings, sports... etc, there is a lot of ON/OFF recording. As such, I find the best way to sync up tapes is to match up Date/Time codes. I accomplish this by playing back the captured video through Firewire back to a Panasonic PV-GS400 which displays the DT on the pop-out display. I then MANUALLY update the previously created "DV Start/Stop Detect" segments with the appropriate DT.
This is a very time consuming process, and if I can get FCP to display the DT directly, it would knock hours off my work flow.
I hope this all makes sense.
FYI I will also be posting this in the 2-pop forums, so if I get any advice there, I will update my post here.
TIA
Gary

Hi Gary
Regarding both your proposed projects afaik there is no API to directly allow you to do this.
However a few options spring to mind: analyzing midi control /mackie control data as provided to a control surface (check out Digital Heaven's BigTime for an idea of how this could work); similarly you could create a virtual DV output device that would appear in the external video outputs list whereby the output video stream would be passed through your code to extract and display the info; perhaps simplest although the least dynamic would be simply to write an FxPlug filter that could be dropped on the clip ... the user could then populate the filter with static display data by manually scavenging the clip for the info with a "button" in your filter (see the options dialog example in the FxPlug SDK)
Good luck
Andy

Advice needed for a mess of ipods

the goal: get all music stored in one place, preferably my new ipod.
1) i have a third generation ipod which has the bulk of the music i have listened to for the last five years.
that music is in iTunes on a pc laptop that has died. (there's a chance that i can get those files off the dead computer and onto an external drive; still waiting to find out. but all those files are on the ipod anyway.)
2) I have a new laptop that has new music in iTunes. (Those files are also on an ipod nano.) the new iTunes files on this laptop do not overlap with the first set of files.
3) i have a new ipod that i want to get everything onto: the old (1st set) files on the old ipod, the new files on my new laptop (& nano), and ... i'd like to convert all of my old cds and get them on the new ipod as well.
Problems:
* how do i join the two sets of files (without losing any) if the old ipod won't work with my new laptop b/c the computer doesn't recognize it.
--What's the actual process for getting the files off the old ipod?
--would it be best to store everything on an external drive (point iTunes to it while it's attached to the laptop?)*
-store everything on the new ipod only?*
** what's the best way to get cds (their data) onto a laptop that doesn't have a cd drive?
The first issue about combining the sets of music onto a new ipod i really have no idea how to do. so any step by step kind of advice would be appreciated. especially because of the old ipod/new laptop incompatibility.
the second issue about the cds: i have a feeling i just have to pay some service to convert them for me. any cheaper ideas?
Thank you!

Right there are many ways to get your Music off your ipod and on to a computer the best thing to do is to take the files off your ipod and put them on a external disk (like you said) but you need to take it to a computer that recognizes your ipod and then once you have coppied the music across, add it to an external disk.
The best ways to do this is...
1.(the cost option)
download this program at http://www.findleydesigns.com/ (ipod Access for Windows), the free version copy's five songs at a time to your computer. But the registered version (£14 (not sure in $)) copys all of your music, playlists, videos etc across directly to itunes.
2. (The Free way) (this is for XP, but i should be the same with vista) (im not really familiar with Vista) but the principles are the same.
You need to be able to view hidden files on your computer , you need to go to the control panel and find folder options. (i believe that you could change the settings on in the windows explorer by clicking view at the top menu bar. you need to click it so that you can see the hidden files. (i think this explains simply what i said Tools -> Folder Options -> View, and then check (enable) the option “Show hidden files and folders.”)
Next find your ipod now if you have enabled hidden files you need to click on your ipod and find a folder called ipod control. the folder itself will look different maybe a bit transparent because it is hidden. Next you will go in and if you explore further you will see loads of files (transparent like ipod control) with things like F34 F01 (or F1) etc.
They are the files with your music on it and if you click on them, they will show music files but they wont have names. they are encrypted with file names like AKLY (basically four letters or 3 letters put together in capitals) so to get the names and other suff back simply drag the music files into itunes or import them individually (the folders) into itunes by clicking file, import into itunes and by folder.
Then once you have done this the names should be correct in Itunes.
*Alternitavely you can drag all the files in 'ipod control' into an external Hard Drive* if you go into itunes prefrences you can let itunes put all your music on your computer into organized files of album names.
Hope that Helped
Alex
And sorry the easiest ways to convert the CD's is to import them yourself into itunes Although it may take some time.
If you dont have an external hard drive then burning all your music onto CDs always helps although with a few Gigabytes of music it could take quite a lot of CDs. You might need some blank DVDs to burn on to
Message was edited by: Alexander Richardson

Advice Needed for Audio and MIDI Controller Software

I am hoping someone may be able to give me advice on how I should approach my problem.
I am currently running a live show with audio backing tracks and a small 12 par lighting system. The light system can be controlled via standard MIDI. I am using iTunes to play back sets of backing tracks, and manually controlling the lighting system using a dedicated foot controller.
What I would like to do, is be able to use software to simultaneously play audio files and perfectly sync the lighting (fades, shots, etc. via midi) with the audio track. Ideally, I would be able to have the audio/lighting paired as discreet entities that could be grouped into sets.
i.e.
Audio-MIDI_1 = Audiotrack1 would always be paired with Lightcontroller_MIDI_events1
Audio-MIDI_2 = Audiotrack2 would always be paired with Lightcontroller_MIDI_events2
Audio-MIDI_3 = Audiotrack3 would always be paired with Lightcontroller_MIDI_events3
I could the create a set of Audio-MIDI_x tracks which could be triggered in any order.
I would like to have to option to be able to activate a single track, or have a complete group of tracks activated sequentially (but be able to stop the and start the group as needed - you never know what will happen in a live situation). It would be nice to have a time-line UI as well.
Now the final requirement: it should be able to run on a PISMO PowerBook. <cringe>
I hope I am not too confusing.
I am thinking MainStage would not be the software for this task as Leo is not an option for the Powerbook.
I have looked at QLab and showcontrolpro, but I don't think theses are right for me either.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
TIA

Gary,
With a Pismo you really are confined. I've been using some software from Alien Apparatus called Solo Performer Show Controller (www.alienapparatus.com) and it has a timeline to sequence lights where you can run 32 channels of midi or dmx lighting. The only setback is it needs at least a 1 GHZ processor. There may be a company like Sonnet that has an upgrade for your processor.
The software is able to run backing tracks, send midi controls to effects units or other software, send hotkeys for apps, synchronize lyrics in a window or on an external monitor, controls a dmx fog machine, and also has a six button usb foot controller which can be configured for many things such as scrolling your songlist to select the next song, change volume of tracks, change a light scene, send a hotkey, trigger samples, etc. It is a bit pricey at just under 600 dollars but the foot control is durable, the company has excellent support and they listen to users to add features to the software.
Hope this helps
Thor

Advice needed for beginner to Flash website building

Help!
I have zero knowledge about using Flash. I am being asked by my boss to build a flash web site for our music and video game stores. I built our old site in Dreamweaver.
Does anyone have advice on where i should start? A suggested book that will walk me through beginning to end. I've worked through a few tutiorials but I feel lost as far at the time line and actions.
Any expert advice is appreciated. I need to get started in the next month. I'd like to build it myself instead of outsourcing to someone else.
Know where I should start?

Lindsay,
Last month I built my first Flash website after following this tutorial on Lynda.com:
http://www.lynda.com/home/DisplayCourseN.aspx?lpk2=735
Needless to say the concept behind the tutorial was mind-opening, at least for me: I have a HTML/CSS background and I always used Flash almost only for banners, headers and simple animations.
Hope this helps...
JC

Advice needed for changing code within the Web IC...

Hi,
I need to change some code within the GET_QUERY_RESULT Method, which is found:
BSP->Z_CRM_IC
View->AuiSearch
Controller class ZL_CRM_IC_AuiSearch_impl
Method do_handle_event
Method eh_onsearch
Method get_query_result
At present the method get_query_result belongs to class CL_CRM_AUI_QUERY_SERVICE.
I can create a subclass from this and call it ZL_CRM_AUI_QUERY_SERVIC, then redefine the method get_query_class, and then make the appropriate changes. But that may be all uneccessary. What I don't know is how to ensure this modified code can be called.
I have already made changes for method DO_INIT_CONTEXT, hence the reason the controller class ZL_CRM_IC_AUISEARCH_IMPL is identified. But this was simple because the view linked directly to this whereas you can see the code I need to change is further down in process chain.
I know that method get_query_result calls a number of BADI's, but these BADI's are too low for the information that I need and therfore really need to make my code changes in the get_query_result method.
I have been reading as much as I can on this subject, but without much success and therefore really count on experienced developers like yourselves to steer me in the right direction, or give advice.
Jas

I will not suggest to put your Enhancements into CL_CRM_AUI_QUERY_SERVICE.
Rather in Component BT -> Class CL_CRM_BTIL . AUi Query Service will Internally call the BOL Component ( get query result )
In your Framework Profile Config , you specify the Component Set . Ex: ALL
Component set have a List of Component Ex BP , BT .
SPRO-> CRM -> CRM Cross Application Components -> Generic Interaction layer -> Basic Settings
Now you can have your Custom , Component Set ( Ex : ZALL ) and Component ( ( Ex ; ZBT , Totally advisable for CIC Development Framework )
Have BT Copied into ZBT and Specify ZL_CRM_BTIL ( Inherited from CL_CRM_BTIL )
And in your Custom Component Set , Specify ZBT instead of BT .
Now Specify your Custom Component Set in your Framework Profile .
Now you got the Enhancement Spot in ZL_CRM_BTIL->GET_QUERY_RESULT
Let me know if it make sense

Urgent: Advice needed for buying my first RAID

Hi,
I am looking to place an order today as I have a pile of editing to get through - so I would love to hear your recommendations!
First of all I am a networking and RAID newbie so don't go all acronym and geek-speek-tastic on me or I won't have a clue what you are talking about. Seriously I don't know my NAS from my elbow!
My requirements are:
1. Suitable for working with HDV
2. 2TB of storage
3. Must work with PowerMac G5 2GHz Dual (later model)
4. Must support RAID 5
5. RAID must be controlled by hardware (on RAID box or via PCIe card)
The following have been suggested - has anyone used them?:
Opt1: http://www.enhance-tech.com/products/desktop/t4_cr.html
(Would probably need to put an eSATA card in my Mac but RAID control is on the box.
Only goes to 80MB/sec - is this good enough for working with ProRes 422? I am looking to convert my HDV to ProRes 422 before output to mpeg2 as I believe this can give better results.)
Opt2: http://www.g-technology.com/Products/G-SPEED-eS.cfm
(Would need to put a RAID controller in my Mac so not so good for connecting to other Macs.)
But I found this and was wondering if it was also suitable (as its cheaper!):
Opt3: http://www.thecus.com/products_over.php?cid=11&pid=28&PHPSESSID=091b7808cfa54754 383932fc512ea056
(Would connect by 1Gb/sec ethernet to my Mac. RAID controller on the box. Someone said stay away from ethernet but I don't understand why?).
Any advice gratefully received. I need to make a decision real quick!
Keep it mellow, B.

It appears that you need to step back and rethink your business. Heck, we don’t even know that you have a business. What you’re up to might just be personal editing. So I apologize if what I’m about to say overestimates you or underestimates you.
FORMAT
You say, “suitable for working with HDV”, but you don’t say whether you MUST work with HDV. As others in this thread have pointed out, HDV is a “poor man’s Hi-Def”. It compresses images so diabolically in Long GOP that image quality suffers, and, as Shane points out, “the long GOP format is very complex and takes a LOT of time to do things.”
The other extreme is recording and editing in 1080i/p at 4K. Very few people in this world demand extreme quality. So, the best format overall is DVCPro HD. Today, DVCPro HD cameras cost only about a third more than the next nearest HDV. What’s more important, to me, is that DVCPro allows you to move away from having to use tape at all. It’s the year 2008 (almost). Tape is over. If it’s too late to sell your camera and switch, then so be it.
STORAGE
You say, “2TB of storage”. For HD work, that’s a bare minimum. My recommendation is to get a 4-tray or 5-tray box with room to grow, even though the extra trays will remain empty your first 6-12 months.
Buy an empty enclosure that you can populate with your own drives. That way, you can use 1TB bare drives. (Don’t buy anything smaller.) You can put together a stack of 5 1TB drives in an eSATA RAID box for less than $2,000.
RAID
You say, “PowerMac G5 2GHz Dual...via PCIe card”. You mean PCIx card. PCIe is for Intel Macs.
You write, “I want RAID (esp. RAID 5... If a drive fails I want to simply be able to swap a new drive in, restore, and be under way again.” But several of your comments indicate that you really don’t need in-line failsafe. For that reason, let me recommend mirroring or something even simpler: a backup drive.
JBOD (Just a Bunch Of Disks) treats each drive in your stack as a separate volume. So, what you see on your desktop is Drive_01, Drive_02. If you subtract the cost for the RAID controller (in the box or in your PCI slot), you can afford to buy TWO plain JBOD boxes, and maintain one as redundant. That satisfies your, “If a drive fails I want to simply be able to swap a new drive in, restore, and be under way again.” In fact, you can skip the “restore” part.
Ken Summerall wrote: “If you are shooting HDV then you have the tapes, those are your backups. If a drive goes down you recapture.”
You responded, “that is not the same as having redundancy of data - and simply being able to swap in a new drive and do a restore.”
You make it sound as though you expect this to happen once a week. It won’t. Backup is good enough. That kind of “time saved” once every year or two isn’t worth it.
SATA vs. FIREWIRE
Again, it’s the year 2008 (almost). Why would you want FireWire? Apple is being so stubborn, pretending that eSATA does not exist, because it has so much invested in its FW technology. But even Apple will be forced to come around in its next models.
While we’re talking about it, the claimed 80MB/sec for the Enhance T4 CR probably refers to the FireWire and USB interfaces, not to the SATA.
ENCLOSURE SHARING
You write, “I also wanted to use the same RAID box with a Macbook Pro. So how would two Macs share the same RAID box?
What kind of sharing do you mean? If you mean that you and your partner can access the same video simultaneously in adjoining rooms, then you need FibreChannel. But, as Shane points out, “...a Fibrechannel setup, then an XServe Server...is NOT cheap.”
As Ken writes, “You can get a eSata card for your G5 and an ExpressCard for your MBP and share the box. With this you could get a Kona or Blackmagic card and capture your footage as DVCProHD and also have a way to monitor your HDV footage.”
Amen.
VENDORS
G-SPEED is reliable, with good support. Caldigit has a platinum reputation. Of course, there are MaxxDigital, Sonnet and Dulce Systems.
Enhance is the new kid on the block, and they are significantly less expensive with, in my experience so far, excellent build quality and quick (human) response. They manufacture in Taiwan, but they’re headquartered in -- and ship out of -- Lower California. So they don’t talk to you in Taiwanese as the cheap enclosure sites do.
So there.
Message was edited by: Al Hatch

Advice needed for converting AI file to PDF

I'm working on some 11x17 page size illustrator files that are of aerial photo maps (with a legend).
Can someone offer me some advice on how to best convert these files to pdfs and keep the photo quality high and keep the file size as low as I can get it??? I basically can convert it to a pdf but I don’t understand the compression settings section (assuming that’s what needs to be changed in order to accomplish this?).
Thanks

This is a trick I find works well.
Just save it as a pdf and open in Acrobat, then (Acrobat X) go to tools and then Prepare for Web Publishing, use all the default settings.
This should reduce the file as much as 1/3 the size sometimes even more.
It has no effect on the qquality.

Advice needed for replacement battery for G3 12" Dual USB ibook

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