Advice on DSLRs

Hi,
I am trying to decide between a Sony Alpha 100 or a Canon Rebel EOS XTI. I am interested in any feedback from this forum on either of these cameras and their compatibility with iMac and iPhoto.
Sony will have a successor to the Alpha 100, an Alpha 200, available in late February, so I will probably wait. I am leaning towards the Sony due to the Steady Shot image stabilization built into the body of the camera as opposed to needing separate stabilized lenses.
Thanks
Mark

I have never had a problem with my Canon XT and compatibility.
It may take a while for iPhoto and Aperture to support RAW files from the Sony, support for second tier manufacturer's can tend to lag a bit.
While IS in the body is nice, it really does need to be tailored to the lens. A long lens needs much more stabilisation compensation than a short lens. There might be a case where the in-body IS does not have sufficient travel to compensate for some long telephoto.
Remember too, that you are buying into a camera system not just a camera. Canon may provide something that you might need in the future that Sony won't. (For example, a tilt-shift lens, or a selection of prime macros.)

Similar Messages

A few questions from someone new to Aperture (and DSLR photography)

Hi - I have just got my first DSLR camera (A Nikon D3000) and am trying out Aperture 3. I had a few questions which aren't all just necessarily Aperture related:
I have imported my library from iPhoto, however now all my albums are in alphabetical order, rather than date created. I only seem to have the option to arrange my albums by, "Kind", "Name" or "Manual". Any idea how I restore the date created order?
This may be too large a subject for here (I should probably buy a book on the subject), however JPEG, NEF and TIFF - I am shooting in raw mode which is generating NEF files. I had tried RAW+JPEG, but the basic JPEG this creates is really quite poor. The NEF files are generally around 7-12Mb. If I open them for editing in Photoshop, a TIFF file is generated in Aperture which looks to be over 8x the size of the original raw file, sometime over 100Mb. I then seem to be able to save it back as a JPEG at pretty much maximum quality which results in a file slightly smaller than the original raw file. Is it necessary to keep the large TIFF files once I've created a jpeg? Am I best off just keeping the finished jpeg and the original raw file in case I want to make changes?
When publishing to flickr, It would be good to be able to just publish the latest versions of all photos in an album. ie not the same photo in tiff, nef and jpg format. Is there an easy way to do this, or is it a case of manually picking each one?
Also - When uploading NEF files to flickr it would appear to convert them to jpg, which is kind of good I suppose, but does anyone know what level of quality the jpegs created are? Am I best off converting them to jpeg myself first and then uploading? If I did this then my albums would be full of duplicates in different formats, which leads back to my previous question about uploading just one version of each. That may be a question for the flickr forum...

You have jumped into the deep end with both feet.
With Aperture running select the single the Browser and you will find the sort controls under the Mobileme to New Smart Album icons depending on how stretched out you have the Inspector panel. There is the ability to sort by just about every parameter there either ascending or descending.
Can Aperture not convert your NEF files? You dont have to have Tiff files at all. See your Preferences regarding External Editor. How much storage space and your archiving requirements will influence your decision about retaining Tiff files.
I know nothing about Flickr but assume you will have to choose your own images. I doubt a Smart Album can select exactly what you need.
When uploading files online galleries generally optimise the images. You are wasting your time uploading massive Tiffs IMHO. Most web services work with jpegs I understand. Consult the Flickr help and support for their requirements and advice.
Enjoy your new hobby.
AW
Whether you have the room to save Tiff files as well as Raw files will probably decide whether you keep them or not.

Advice on buying camera for stills and high speed video

Hello video pros,
I'm a music composer who occasionally dallies with some simple photographic and video work. I'm looking for some advice re picking up a camera to make some simple videos, but with the highest quality I can get with consumer grade gear.
I am pretty much ruling out consumer grade camcorders for two reasons: One is that I want to be able to shoot high quality stills and make stop motion videos from very high res stills. The other is that I don't need audio recording at all because the video will always be just to accompany music - simple music videos basically. So I'm much more interested in the recent mid range point-and-shoot bridge cameras with full HD video modes rather than camcorders - they seem to cover more realistically the range of things I want to do.
My main question is regarding shooting at higher frame rates than 30 fps. I'd like to shoot video at a minimum of 60 fps (or higher) to then playback at 25 fps to get that smooth, slightly dreamy motion effect. There are a few cameras out there that offer high speed video modes, but most are nothing more than a gimmick because the res is so low that the resulting video is unusable. However a few cameras now seem to hit a sweet spot, offering 60 fps recording at HD res, and also 120 fps at 640x480 which (at a pinch) is usable, at least for stuff destined for simple web use.
The cameras I've narrowed it down to so far seem to be the Nikon Coolpix P500, the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ40 and possibly the Fujifilm HS20 EXR. I also was vaguely interested in the Casio Exilim HS cameras, but they seem to only offer high speed video modes that are pointless - 1000 fps at a completely useless low res, and 120 fps only at 640x480. The others I listed seem to offer at least 60 fps at some kind of HD res, so I'm assuming that with these cameras I could shoot decent looking video which would then play back with that slightly hyper real slow-mo effect when I import into FCP at 25 fps. Is this correct? Or is it the case that when they say HD video @ 60fps, it's some kind of interlaced mode which means you can't play back at a slower frame rate to get smooth slow motion?
The other thing I've noted is that all of these cameras do record HD video, but it's always compressed in H264 format. I understand that this puts a serious limitation on how much post-processing you can do to the video afterwards. Highly compressed video will begin to show image artefacts very quickly when you apply effects as opposed to higher quality (bigger file size) video compression. But I think I can live with that given that for the stuff I want to make, it will just be simply edited and only lightly graded. However, of the cameras I'm looking at, the Lumix also records in a format called AVCHD which (I think) does full HD at 17 Mbps. Does this mean that it's basic video quality is significantly better than the other choices? That said, from the specs it's unclear if it actually allows shooting at higher frame rates which you can slow down at playback.. the way it describes 60fps mode makes it sound like it's just interlacing so you don't actually get a higher number of images per second to then be able to play back at a lower frame rate. This for me might rule it out because I really want the creative effect of high speed video, even if it's only the subtle effect of 60 fps slowed down to 25.
So in summary, I'm looking for a camera capable of creative shooting (high quality stills to make stop motion videos, usable-quality HD video along with at least some degree of high speed video at a resolution that is still usable) to make interesting and artistic footage to accompany music. The destination medium is the web, so even though I'd like to get the best quality raw material to work with, the final destination is not exactly a cinema screen. As a pro in a related industry, I'm all too aware of the pointlessness of buying outlandishly over-specced gear that is far beyond your level of expertise. So I want to keep it simple and realistic, budget-wise, given the level I'm at. Nothing more than say $800 US. A seriously high end camera would be wasted on me, and I think it would be wiser to invest in useful accessories like a steadicam merlin and decent tripod rather than blow loads of cash on a camera far beyond my skill level.
Apologies for the long post, any and all advice would be very welcome and appreciated! And feel free to correct me if my assumptions are wrong, and suggest any gear that I should consider looking at.

Hi, thanks for your input. I'm aware of the fact that my question is a bit OT, but I'm just looking for input from people with more experience and broader information in this area than I have myself.. I know people are here to talk about FCP, but I'm betting many editors and film makers who work with FCP will have more insight in this area than I do.
I've been reading every review I can find at dpreview, and also am watching as many test video examples I can find on the internet, mostly on vimeo because the ones on youtube look pretty awful. I just am reaching out to get some actual experience and advice from people who might give me pointers on what to look out for.
As for 60fps not being fast enough, I know what you're saying. But for me, even 60 fps slowed down to 25 fps on playback is enough of an interesting effect, as long as the actual quality of the footage looks good to start off with. I like the subtle effect of slightly slower than real motion when it's real, bona-fide high frame rate slowed down. Artificially created slow-mo using plug ins looks cheesy to me, and the gimmicky super high frame rates of cameras like the casio exilim (where the resolution looks like a mobile phone video from ten years ago) are completely useless.
I've seen lots of examples on vimeo of stuff shot with DSLRs from Canon and Nikon at 60fps and then played back at 25 or 24, and it looks plenty nice enough for what I'm after. But am I kidding myself that I'd get anything near as nice with the price range I'm looking at?

Is there a way to use the Tablet Remote to control a Sony Alpha DSLR Camera?

I own a Sony Tablet and love the ability to use it as a Remote Control. I also own a Sony Alpha DSLR...yet I can't get the remote control to control the Camera. Has anyone figured out how to do this yet? It's a little large, but would be amazing if the camera had DLNA and could automatically publish a photo on the tablet right after I took the pick...with the Tablet remote!!!
Thanks for any advice.

Hello Damon,
What is the exact model # of Sony Alpha DSLR Camera?
You can try “Learning from remote” feature if your DSLR camera is remote control capable.
Refer the following link for instructions:
http://www.kb.sony.com/selfservice/documentLink.do?externalId=C1023514
Camera should be DLNA server capable in order to access pictures from it using DLNA application in the tablet.
If my post answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution."

Updated to 2014 and now .MOV DSLR files are unsupported

Hi dudes - I've been working on a commercial at work with Premiere CC 2014 and have a 2nd proof deadline tomorrow morning so I've taken a copy home with me. I had to update CC to open the file and suddenly I can't re-link any of the DSLR footage as it says it's unsupported, dosn't show in media browser and can't import either. A-cam stuff was all F55 and links fine. Oh and also I can still open all file formats including .MOV inside of CS6 (but obviously not the project file). Can anyone offer any advice or has anyone had a similar issue? Totally screwed if this doesn't work (also got another Premiere problem on another thread so this makes things even worse). I'm a big lover of Adobe products but it seems like every other week I have issues with Creative Cloud in one way or another and I dare not add up the amount of money I've lost over the last couple years due to virtual cock-ups. Adobe customer services rarely seem capable of solving any issues (or at least none of the people via the chat function - I can never get through on the phone) so I'm turning to the wonderful community You would be a god to me if you can help me out of this mess
ps. just for added funzies, I was going to uninstall and re-install via the Creative Cloud application and after uninstalling it still says "up to date" and hasn't reverted to being installable again. Great
Pps. Ha! Even better... it turns out you can't add "2014" as a tag in the discussion tags. Winning today
Thanks in advance dudes!
(a very desperate) Kraig x

Sorry - bad forum form
I'm rocking Windows 8.1, i7, 20GB ram, GTX560Ti + GTX570.

Shooting a school play, camera advice

Hi,
We have been asked by the school if we could shoot this years Christmas play. We thought the best way was to setup 3 fixed cameras covering different angles of the stage and use Final Cut Pro to cut the footage together.
We would ideally like to use cameras that use memory cards so we can get the footage in to Final Cut Pro quickly. I am looking for some advice on cameras and producing the end result.
Ideally we would like to shoot this in HD. 720p would be fine. Any recommendation on cameras? We are going to need to hire them. We were wondering if using a Canon 5D or 7D would do, but this might just be the geek in us.
I know Toast can burn BluRay content to a stand DVD and was hoping I could export the final movie from Final Cut Pro and then burn it to BluRay that way.
Any other tips would be most helpful.
Best wishes
Michael

Michael Curtis wrote:
We thought the best way was to setup 3 fixed cameras covering different angles of the stage and use Final Cut Pro to cut the footage together.
It's a project you can do well or you can produce a DVD no one will watch more than once. Three fixed cameras will be only slightly less boring than one fixed camera. You want one fixed camera and two being handled by qualified photographers. You need camera rehearsals, shot sheets, and lighting that is properly adjusted by video.
Michael Curtis wrote:
We would ideally like to use cameras that use memory cards so we can get the footage in to Final Cut Pro quickly. I am looking for some advice on cameras and producing the end result.
There are no memory cards that empty into FCP quickly. You
must first copy the cards' contents to your drives as a backup and then transcode upon ingestion. Much quicker to shoot on good ol' DV.
Michael Curtis wrote: Ideally we would like to shoot this in HD. 720p would be fine. Any recommendation on cameras? We are going to need to hire them. We were wondering if using a Canon 5D or 7D would do, but this might just be the geek in us.
Your geekiness is quaintly admirable but your lack of experience is likely to be fatal. You can spend a few hours investigating the workflow for Canon's DSLRs and FCP. Then run away.
Michael Curtis wrote:
I know Toast can burn BluRay content to a stand DVD and was hoping I could export the final movie from Final Cut Pro and then burn it to BluRay that way.
Maybe. You need to talk to the Toast community. How many do you want to sell? BD-only reduces your potentional market by at least half and there will be dozens of irate parents who simply can't understand why your BD won't play on their set tops.
Michael Curtis wrote:Any other tips would be most helpful.
We see similar questions often and we are torn between giving you advice we hope will encourage you to research and correct your misperceptions and trying to give you enough advice to allow you not to fial but not to succeed, either.
The many assumptions you have made up to this point are incorrect or incomplete. You have a few weeks to figure it out, run some tests, and work out a system that actually allows you to shoot, edit, and release a product your parents will be proud to own. I say, find three matched DV cameras and study up on how to color match them and how to sync them. And how to use FCP's multicam feature which works well but it's not easy.
One vital thing you have totally failed to address is audio. You cannot cover a stage play with the microphones attached to your cameras. It cannot be done. Your audio system will be at least as complex as your video system. You need wireless mics on the principles, hanging or shotgun mics for the chorus a mixer, a way to bring in music and sound effects, and a way to sync all cameras to the same audio track.
bogiesan

Movie Camera Advice

Hey all,
I am an aspiring indie filmaker who is looking to purchase a HD movie camera to begin making "films". I am looking to get a camera that will work with iMovie and Final Cut Pro X (hopefully in a native format). I am well aware that there is a list of supported cameras on the website, but if you go to websites like B&H photo and look at all the "pro-sumer" grade or lower-end "pro-grade" cameras, the choices are a bit overwhelming and the list on the apple website doesn't even begin to skim the surface of what is out there.
Can anyone recommend a good camera that I can grow with, that peferably has the ability to plug in a microphone externally with control settings. I would like the best bang for the buck and I am aware of the importance that sound plays in making the end-product more professional. If I can get a great camera and be able to have great sound, that is a bonus.
Maybe I am out in left field but I would like to spend no more than around $2,000 to get my feet wet. I don't need all the bells and whistles just yet but I do want to be able to put out a professional-looking product. Any other advice regarding getting the best bang for the buck in terms of getting a camera that gives the best cinema/film "feel" would be appreciated; as I understand it, FCPX doesn't support 24p format.
God bless, and thanks for your time.
Horsemunch
U.S.A.
27" 3.4 GHz Intel Core i7 iMac
Mac OS X 10.7.3

DSLRs are used by many filmmakers these days. Check out Philip Bloom and Shane Hurlbut, for example. The advantage of these cameras are clearly the capability to use different lenses, shallow depth of field and good low-light capabilities. But there are also a lot of downsides like rolling shutter, aliasing and moire, highly compressed codec, and audiorecording to name only a few. So if you know what you are doing and if you shoot in a controlled environment you can certainly gain from using a DSLR .... if you have the proper workflow for post production.
As an example you can check out "Act of Valor", a Bandito Brothers production. DP Shane Hurlbut shot the movie almost entirely on Canon 5D MkIIs and there's a couple of nice articles on how they dealt with the inherent problems.
Blackmagic have just presented their new Cinema Camera which records either ProRes or 12-bit CinemaDNG. It will probably set you back $ 3000 without lenses but you get the full DaVinci Resolve with it and that's $ 1000 worth of software.
I personally have used Canon 550Ds and 600Ds for shooting video with good results (with shallow DOF making for really beautiful shots) but I have also had some bad moments. You just have to know where the limitations are and work around them.
As for codecs: almost all consumer and prosumer cameras shoot some flavor of H.264/AVCHD, which is a highly compressed MPEG-4 codec. Today you can edit many of those codecs natively in either FCP X or Premiere Pro CS6 but doing so is very processor intensive and requires a lot of horsepower. The alternative is to transcode everything on ingest to ProRes 422 (or other intermediate codec used by your NLE). This will provide you with a codec that contains full frames for editing and enough color information for grading the locked picture. It will also require a lot more disk space.
If you want a really low budget setup for editing then FCP X is probably a good choice (given the price) and you can get Motion 5 and Compressor 4 for an additional $100. Add DaVinci Resolve Lite (free) to the equation and you have almost everything you need to output a full picture.
Start reading here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AVCHD
http://dslrvideoshooter.com/10-must-read-hdslr-guides-for-filmmakers/
http://nofilmschool.com/dslr/

Advice needed on how to photograph stars

Hi.
I was wondering if anyone could give me advice on photographing stars,
over the last few weeks. i've seen some stunning images of stars, and would love to find out is how to take stunning images off stars, my camera skills are limited, I would be using a full frame dslr, any advice would be grateful.....
john............

These links should get you started:
http://www.deep-sky.co.uk/imaging/dslr/dslr.htm
http://www.deep-sky.co.uk/index.htm
http://celestialwonders.com/index.html
Wo Tai Lao Le
我太老了

Premiere Pro CS5.5 $3000 Computer Build Specs & Advice?

Hey everyone I am building a video editing computer I do alot of YouTube videos using my Canon T2I DSLR camera & use plugins like magic bullet looks all the time which can put alot of stress on some computers. I have compiled a list of everything I plan on getting for my new build and I am open to advice & thoughts. I will be using this computer strickly for after effects and premiere pro cs5.5 & possibly in the future for programs like maya or 3d max type programs. Here is the specs of my build..
1. Case: Lian-Li Case Pc-A77F Full Tower $300
2. Mother Board: ASUS P9X79 DELUXE Intel X79 Motherboard $375
3. CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K BX80619i73930K Unlocked Processor - Six Core, $560
4. CPU Cooler: N126-1028 ::Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 CPU Cooler for Intel - 6 Heatpipe Dual Radiator, 140mm and 120mm Fan, 12V, MTBF > 150,000h(5.2 lbs) $90
5. PSU: CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX1200 $300
6. 1 SSD (for OS/Programs/Software)250gb samsung 840 series $200
7. 3 x 2TB Hard Drives: TSD-2000AS4 ::Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB Serial ATA Hard Drive - 2TB, 7200RPM, 64MB, SATA 6Gb/s(1.2 lbs) $300
8. RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) $159
9. Windows 7 Professional $140
10. Battery Backup: CyberPower CP1350AVRLCD Intelligent LCD 1350VA 810W with AVR Ultra-Quiet Tower $150
11. Card Reader: Ultra U12-40529 Aluminus 3.5" Internal Card Reader with USB and eSATA - 3 Port USB 2.0, 1 Port USB 3.0, 1 Port eSATA, 6 Slot Card Reader, Steel(0.65 lbs) $40
12. DVD burner $20
13. Mouse & keyboard $20
Hopefully I have everything and are ready to go... let me know?

Several drawbacks to that iMac:
1) Slower, less powerful CPU - fewer cores and fewer threads. Plus, no iMac can be overclocked at all; they are permanently locked at stock speed.
2) No RAID support or capability whatsoever.
3) Can only accommodate a single internal fast disk - period. That disk, unfortunately, is used for the OS and programs. The only viable outputs on that iMac are the Thunderbolt ports - and they, too, are limited as to the number of disks that can be connected.
4) The 3TB disk is normally way, way, way overkill for an OS disk. However, given the complete lack of internal upgradability and the lack of internal space, Apple might as well install the largest-capacity disk it could get its hands on.

Combine two DSLR for video shooting

I've recently bought D70 kit EF-S 18-135mm + EF 50mm 1.4. I'm new to these DSLR cameras and the main purpose was to shoot cenimatic full HD videos. I came to know later that the D70 isn't a full frame camera. Now I need to add one more DSLR to shoot my videos from different angles. I need to know whether it'll be a good idea to get another D70? Or will it be better to have a full frame camera like 6D? The main thing is that I need to be able to edit videos shot by the two different cameras and show good results.
Is shooting the same video from different angles with two different DSLR bodies will give different quality videos that will be hard to combine together in editing software, like Adobe Premiere?
If videos will be harmonized easily together, then I believe owning two different cameras will be better where I'll be able to take full frame shots as well as croped ones.
Appreciate your feedback.

You don't need a full-frame camera. If you want/need to be able to use your second camera for very high quality stills, buy a 7D Mark II; otherwise buy another 70D. (I assume that's what you have. A D70 is a Nikon DSLR that's on its way to becoming an antique.)
If you think you might get serious enough about photography to eventually buy a FF camera, consider buying lenses (when you need them) that will work on a FF camera. The 18-135 you have will not. (The 50mm probably will.)
This advice comes from someone who has never shot a video. So accept it or reject it with that understanding.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

I need advice on a CCK purchase

I am looking to purchase a camera connection kit to use with my Nikon D5100 DSLR. I have the new iPad.
My Nikon can connect via cable or it also has an sd card.
My issue is that every time I look at reviews of the various accessories especially the CCKs there are complaints that iOS 5.1 won't support the device. I don't know what to do. I bought an iPad so that i could use it to immediately review photos in the field and so that I didn't have to purchase and wrangle multiple memory cards.
Does anyone have a suggestion? Are ther workarounds to the error messages that the iPad will throw or are there certain methods that have to be used in order for the iPad to be compatible with CCKs?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you
Salvatore

Some important points to consider:
You're going to have a real memory space problem using the iPad as you propose. Shooting in RAW + JPG mode means you are going to use up a lot of memory. Fast. My Canon 7D produces RAW files that are about 15-18 MB each, so even with my 64GB iPad2, the memory gets filled up really quickly. Luckily, your camera uses SD cards, which is good because the CCK accepts SD cards. Someone else may know for sure, but I think you may be able to do selective importation using the CCK, e.g., import only the JPG versions and not the RAW image files. This will save you space. However, you will still be facing the problem of what to do with the RAW images on your card.
I've been thinking about how to use the iPad as a photographic backup device in the field since the iPad2 came out. I've basically given up because the memory is really too small to be useful in storing photos, especially if you go on a trip of more than 3-4 days. I typically shoot 300-4000 RAW images in a week's vacation, and there is no way my iPad can store all of it. Instead, my approach is to use a portable photoviewer, like the Hyperdrive Colorspace or my Epson P-5000, or take my MacBook Air and a 500GB portable hard drive.

Automating export versions after sorting a photoshoot - advice please!!!

Hi
I'm about to embark on a location shoot and I'm looking for workflow / automation advice which will help me to reduce my post production hours.
I'm using a Nikon dSLR, Aperture and a MacBook Pro 15inch. My knoweldge of Aperture is fairly basic although I am an intermediate to advanced mac user.
Background:
Within the week's shoot I'll end up shooting approximately 1000 RAW images, of which all are imported into thier own specific album within the project, represent ing one of about 25 locations which make up the shoot. At the end of each day I'll import, tag and make my selections: 'Selects' denoted by two stars (**), and 'Secondary' denoted by by one star (*).
The bit I need advice on:
The flight home is about 8hrs, of which I wish to conclude all my post production, including output. I wish to automate the latter part to save me a lot of pointing, clicking and generally sitting about to wait for each album to export.
Final export is 1500x (or similar), 8 bit jpg, sRGB colourspace.
I wish export all shots with one click to folder structure like the example below. Which I'll then burn to CD and pass to the client:
South America Photo Shoot (name of PROJECT)
--> Hotel (name of first ALBUM in above PROJECT)
---->Selects (containing all ** shots in above ALBUM)
---->Secondary (containing all * shots in above ALBUM)
--> Beach (next name of ALBUM in above PROJECT)
---->Selections
---->Seconday
..and so on for each of the locations.
Any advice on how I can automate the output side of this project would be very welcome - I'll be reusing this workflow on multiple trips.
Many thanks in advance
Oliver

You're going to need some AppleScript experience for this one, and also to change your Album structure a bit.
Go to http://www.bagelturf.com/aparticles/tips/tipprint/index.html and copy the AppleSCript from about half way down the page. The script will export all images that are in Albums in a given Project, making a folder structure in the Finder that echoes your Aperture structure of Sub-folders and Albums.
You'll need to change your structure to something like:
South America Photo Shoot (name of PROJECT)
--> Hotel (FOLDER in above PROJECT)
---->Selects (ALBUM in 'Hotel' folder)
---->Secondary (ALBUM in 'Hotel' folder)
--> Beach (next name of FOLDER in above PROJECT)
---->Selects (ALBUM in 'Beach' folder)
---->Secondary (ALBUM in 'Beach' folder)
With some careful setting up, you should be able to make Smart Albums for all of the Albums, using keyword and rating searches.
Also, you will need to make a new export preset to fit your 1500px sRGB requirements, and copy the name of that preset into the AppleScript.
Ian

Wanted: Advice of Camera Upgrade?

This may not be the most approperiate forum to ask such a question but I'm thinking a lot of people in this community know a lot about cameras...
I've been shooting with an HV40 for a little while now without any major complaints but a new job contract and Boss requires me to take a step or step two closer to an introductory level "prosumer" grade camera, but with a $2-2500 dollar budget it leaves me with few options.
For me it's all about image quality - I don't need any in-camera effects, 10x digital zoom, fancy new native mics etc. Face Detection would be the only "gizmo" that could prove helpful. The content recorded is intended to be edited by both Avid MC and FCP then burn't straight to Blu-ray & DVD.
I'm recording sit down interviews so face detection and the ability to blur out the background behind the talent would really enhance my operation.
I've read a few articles that suggest AVCHD with the right CCDs can achieve superior results to HDV? So with that and the budget in mind so far I've found the:
CANON LEGRIA HFG10 HD CMOS VIDEO 10x
ticks the boxes but after using tapes forever and having HDDs fail/die on me, the switch over to using HDDs for archiving will be very new. Other suggestions have been:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/821133-REG/JVC_GY_HM150U_GY_HM150U_Pr... and the Canon XF100.
I'm all ready to make the jump from tape to Memory cards. Have you had a go with either of those cameras I listed?
It gets a bit confusing for I've been in the 1080/50i world, I don't really know what kind of format will produce the image that will bring me a little bit closer to the prosumer world. I've read that 1920x1080 is full HD and AHCHD 1920 x1080 is a really high quality codec, better than standard HDV.
Which is the best format/codec to shoot documentary style footage? The answer to that will make choosing the right camera a bit easier....
I'd love to hear and receive advice from the users and not just bloggers reviews.
Please fire at me with any advice, opinions for I would really appreciate to hear and receive advice from the users not just bloggers reviews.

PatMan001 wrote:
I'm recording sit down interviews so face detection and the ability to blur out the background behind the talent would really enhance my operation.
If you want to get a shallow DOF then (as David suggested) you might want to look at a DSLR. Note, however, that you will need some accessories (lenses, mics) to go with that. Also note that they are not really the weapon of choice for interviews as they usually have limitations in their continuous recording times (around 10 min).
The Canon XF100 is an excellent camera but you might want to take a look at the Panasonic HMC40 as well.
The Canon HF G10 is also excellent (in its price range) but I'd put it more inside the consumer class than the prosumer class. A direct competitor would be the Panasonic HDC TM900

DSLR + lens for the beginning

Hi guys,
I like photography and feel I am ready for my first DSLR (I used only Point-an-shoot cameras before). Read a lot of reviews and discussions but things are still not clear for me which camera and lens to get. My budget is around $1500. I am planning to take portraits (and some weddings perhaps) and some landscape pics (just for pleasure from time to time). Also if possible I'd like to grow with my camera so it should not necessary be a camera for noob, I am willing to learn.
So, I found 2 lenses - Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM Lens and Sigma 50mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens (Both are prime, must provide a nice pic in a bad light, fast and sharp). The price for Sigma is 2 times higher then Canon. Does the difference really cost these money? Since there is a rule "better buy more expensive lens then camera" I don't mind to spend more on Sigma, but should I? Also is it better to get 50mm or 35mm considering I am going to use with crop sensor camera?
I can't afford full-frame camera right now, so depends on which lens I'm going to get there is some options with camera: Canon 70D, 7d or T3i.
I would be happy to hear some advice and thank you in advance.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

His budget I think is for Camera + Lens (at least one). Yes, he can buy 6D full frame for $1500 now, but that is without any lens.
Weekend Travelers Blog | Eastern Sierra Fall Color Guide

Are these parts ok for a premiere pro system(editing mostly dslr footage)?

Hi
I'm planning on getting a editing system for cs5.5. I'll be dealing mostly with dslr footage. Could you point out if there's anything "wrong" with the following system:
motherboard: ASRock Z68 Pro3, Z68(it has integrated graphics which I can disable in BIOS right?)
cpu: Intel Core i7 2600K
cpu cooler: Thermalright HR-02 Macho
gpu: Nvidia GeForce GTX560 Ti (1Gb gddr5)
16Gb ram (2x G.Skill RipJaws-X DIMM Kit 8GB PC3-12800U CL9-9-9-24 (DDR3-1600) (Sandy Bridge))
psu: XFX Core Edition PRO 550W
case: Fractal Design Define R3
4x Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB(#1 for Os, programs and pagefile. #2 and #3 for media and projects in RAID-0. #4 for scratch and exports.)
BD-RW
Windows 7 Pro 64bit SP1 OEM
Any advice will be appreciated.

Ok, one more question. Which one would you pick?
XFX Core Edition PRO 750W     http://xfxforce.com/en-gb/Products/PSU/Pro-Series/750W-PSU.aspx?product=34617
Super Flower Golden Green Pro 750W     http://www.super-flower.de/index.php?id=97
Corsair TX 750 V2 750W     http://www.corsair.com/power-supply-units/enthusiast-series-power-supply-units/enthusiast- series-tx750-v2-80-plus-bronze-certified-750-watt-high-performance-power-supply.html
These are all in the same price range(95-105€) with 60 months of warranty.

Advice on DSLRs

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for