Advice on tweaking settings

Hi there,
As I learn more about Logic (thanks in great part to these forums) I am starting to record songs with more and more tracks and adding more plug ins and even venturing into the world of soft synths via the music editor.
I am looking for ideas opinions and advice, on tweaking my settings for best performance for my set up.
I was using a buffer size of 64 but started to get random pops and clicks, I switched to 512 and the pops and clicks are gone but now the latency is back.
I am using an M Audio Mobile pre (usb) which has served me well, but I am thinking of getting a alesis multimix 8 fire wire mixer, do you think this will help. I am thinking that at least I could switch off software monitoring and use the onboard FX of the mixer.
I am using a G4 PwoerBook with 768 megs of ram. Recording to an external 7200 HD
I have been very happy with my system and the performance I have been getting, until these random pops and clicks started, so upping the buffer worked but now the latency rears its ugly head.
I know more ram would be good, but I would like any pointers of preference settings to tweak my set up as much as possible beforehand.
Thanks,
Peace and good mixes to all,
NoteFarm

Hi there,
I am definatley going to upgrade to a firewire audio interface, but as I shop, I would like to make sure that it is definatly the interface causing the clicks. The only reason I say this is that it only started happening a couple of days ago. Up untill then I have had no problems. I tried using just the audio in of the PowerBook and noticed a couple of random clicks.
The clicks happen regardless of buffer size, and even in a new session, just one guitar, and I have tested, just with a track armed, not recording, and I hear the intermitant clicks. It dosent happen with iTunes, or during playback of material beffore the clicks started to ocur, now the clicks are recroded and are grinding to a halt.
Please help, I think it is some setting in logic causing this.
Thanks
Peace and good mixes to all
NoteFarm

Similar Messages

Advice on sequence settings - frame size for VHS video in FCP

Hello,
I was hoping that I could get some advice on editing and output for video captured from VHS Tapes to ensure the best quality possible.
My current workflow to digitize the VHS tapes is:
VHS signal from JVC S7600u with TBC into ADVC 300 (no de-interlace or other filters set) into a Mac Pro via firewire. Capture preset in FCP is DV NTSC 48khz.
Once in FCP - the captured VHS video frame size is 720 X 480, Vid rate is 29.97, pixel aspect is NTSC-CCIR 601 and field dominance is lower (even)
My questions are:
If my final destination is for You Tube sharing , are these the best sequence/ frame size settings or should I convert the sequence frame size to 640 X 480, or should I leave at 720 X 480 while working in FCP and then output to Compressor and select the H264 you tube sharing video setting and change the frame size to 640 X 480?
Should I de- interlace for internet/youtube destination?
Should I de-interlace for DVD/TV destination?
If I want to burn the finished project to DVD and watch the video on a progressive montitor/ TV screen, what would be the best settings/frame size for that?
If any of you out there have experience with editing vcr/analog video in FCP and have a good workflow to ensure best quality, I would really appreciate any advice/suggestions.
Thanks in advance.

Digitize to 720X480 frame size in FCP. In compressor, your YouTube preset will automatically deinterlace and a square pixel aspect ratio.No deinterlacing for DVD.
Russ

Seeking advice on reverb settings

Greetings. I'm mastering recordings of acoustic instruments - guitar, mandolin, violin, dobro, etc. - and want to apply reverb to take the edge off of the dry studio-recorded sounds. I'm interested in which effects and what settings people have used with similar sounds, and what works for you.
I've played around with "studio reverb" and "reverb" settings, and haven't reached strong conclusions. The effects seem to be barely or inaudible at smaller room or decay settings (which sort of begs the question - why use the effect?), but the extreme settings don't seem right for what I'm doing...
Also, is there a meaningful difference between "reverb" and "studio reverb" in your experience?
Thanks.
-Scott

pasms wrote:
Greetings. I'm mastering recordings of acoustic instruments - guitar, mandolin, violin, dobro, etc. - and want to apply reverb to take the edge off of the dry studio-recorded sounds. I'm interested in which effects and what settings people have used with similar sounds, and what works for you.
The only advice I'd give in general is to stick to natural-sounding reverb settings; in other words don't try to be clever and EQ them or anything...
I've played around with "studio reverb" and "reverb" settings, and haven't reached strong conclusions. The effects seem to be barely or inaudible at smaller room or decay settings (which sort of begs the question - why use the effect?), but the extreme settings don't seem right for what I'm doing...
I wouldn't take too much notice of the numbers - use your ears to determine what's good and bad.
Also, is there a meaningful difference between "reverb" and
"studio reverb" in your experience?
The 'meaningful difference' is that the full reverb is a much more processor-intensive process, and gives a much 'denser' reverb, especially in the tail sounds. This invariably works better on acoustic instruments. Studio reverb is something you are more likely to throw onto a multitracked track, especially of a backing instrument, and accordingly you might use several instances of it. Under these circumstances it can actually be beneficial, because it doesn't clutter up the background sound so much, although as with any reverb, generally 'less is more'...
What is most important with any reverb is getting the 'first reflections' settings appropriate for the material you have. It is these that characterise the sort of room the reverb appears to be in, and if you get this wrong, your reverb will sound 'inappropriate' whatever you do.
But I'll say it again; Less Is More. If you can, try to audition your material in the acoustically deadest environment you can find if you are going to play around with reverb settings, otherwise you really won't have a clue about what you are really doing until it's too late. Present-day trends are generally to use less reverb than 20 years ago anyway - which is a little perverse, considering that 20 years ago it all sounded a lot worse!

Need advice on encode settings for Premiere file to be played back on DVD

Hi - hoping someone can help me with my encoding settings. I seem to be on the right track because everything looks good until you play the video on DVD.
I use Windows Movie Maker to encode my exports to DVD. This software does not accept MP4 but it seems to accept a variety of other files and one is WMV. I first exported a WMV clip from Premiere at 1920x1080 (the raw video and graphics are also in that size). Then I exported another WMV clip to 1280x720. I just wanted to see what both of them look like on a DVD during play back.
Here are the export settings:
Here is what the1280 WMV looks like when it's played back on my desktop computer in Windows Media player. As you'll see everything looks very clean:
I then imported the 2 WMV clips into Windows Movie Maker, selected the 16:9 settings, and it encoded them into a finished DVD. I then played the DVD back on my 50 inch TV in my living room. Below you'll see a photo I took of the 1920 clip; notice how the text looks jagged:
Then the photo below of the 1280 clip looks much cleaner.
But obviously I'd like for the finished DVDs to look if possible even cleaner than the 1280 photo above - hopefully like it looks in the photo of the WMV playing back on my computer. These videos will be distributed to different local offices.
Are my WMV settings correct? Should I export to other than WMV? How can I improve on the 1280 DVD photo above so everything looks even cleaner (if possible)? I have Adobe Encore - should I use that instead of Movie Maker?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

A DVD is 720x480 so anything larger must be scaled down to be legal according to the DVD specification
CS5-thru-CC PPro/Encore tutorial list http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1448923 may help

Advice on export settings (codecs, sizes, etc.)

I have a 1-minute iMovie, non-HD, 720x480. It was shot with a basic camcorder.
I exported it using the Share > QuickTime > Web preset, and it came out as a 1MB movie, 320x240, and is REALLY grainy and kind of hard to watch.
So I tried to experiment with expert settings, but every expert setting I try multiplies the final file size (typically at least to 20MB or more).
What I'm looking for is "one step up" from the Web preset -- something that's 2-4MB in size, and looks better than my 1MB exported version.
I don't see many details on what the "Web" preset is, except that it's 12fps (I think that's fine -- this isn't sports), and 320x240. Does anyone have any tips or recommendations on other codecs/settings that would produce a better result but at an economical size just slightly larger than the Web preset?
(I'd love it to be larger than 320x240 but when I step up to 640x or 720x I get into 30MB movies...)

Even at 320x240 resolution, the MPEG-4 looks great whereas the H.264 was too blocky and grainy.
That may be due to other factors, not just whether the movie uses the Apple MPEG4 codec or the H.264 code. H.264 is able to deliver beautiful movies, as evidenced by Apple's movie trailers. (Don't expect to achieve that quality without using high-end, high-price software.)
To compare features of two movies you can open both in QuickTime Player, then choose Window > Show Movie Info. Click in the two movie windows in turn to compare their features.
The Movie Info window lets you look at important variables like the Frames Per Second, Data Size and Data Rate of the two movies. These were set by the iMovie export pre-sets used to create the movie.
If the movies aren't exactly what you want, you can use iMovie's Expert Settings export option to configure your own exports using "improved" export settings. You can increase the data rate, for example, to get better quality image. Or lower the window size to improve quality with the same data rate.
The H.264 is a particularly useful codec, delivering great-looking video at very low data rates. How low you can go will depend, in part, on the content of the video. It's often a matter of trial and error.
One strategy is to export with H.264 using a very high data rate so you see what the codec can deliver, then try other exports with lower data rates until the quality is no longer acceptable. When the movie file size achieves your goal, you're done.
Apple's new "Apple TV" export pre-set does a great job using H.264. It doesn't let you control things like the window size, however, at least not from iMovie.
But if you have QuickTime Pro, note that the Apple TV export pre-set automatically exports at the current size of your movie window. So if you want a small-window export, set the movie window to that size before exporting.
Karl

Good way to programmatically control/tweak settings

Within a project document, I want to alter the settings such as color correction, among other things, via some form of code.
Ideally, the "tool" that performs this alteration needs to talk to another application possibly over the network (kind of a p2p-like).
Is scripting or creating a plugin the best way to go about this? Where would I start?

I'd say forget it! That is way beyond what either the scripting host or even the API can provide. Any such solution would only work for one specific setup and even then the projects would probably have to be rigged with extra expressions internally, so your code can detexct which props need to be modified. In any case, the projects will have to be opened in a full instance of AE and, which is probably more critical, you will have to find a way how you trigger all these events. Some stuff in AE simply cannot be automated nor is it exactly designed in a way that would allow multiple people to work on the same file. That would be one other problem. You may end up with a bazillion file versions and have no way to go back nd integrate modifications in the source projects...
Mylenium

Help! Can anyone offer any advice re color settings?

Hi all, I just don't know where to begin! Take a look at the screenshots attached.
The two images look completely different. Photoshop CS5 renders the image entirely differently. I now notice that in my old copy of CS3 the image renders way closer to what I see in ACDSee AND in Lightroom. I have NEVER managed to even begin to understand this stuff. There's the monitors, the computer, Photoshop, Lightroom and ACDSee and they all have to interract with one another and... help! Is ACDSee almost accurate? How can I make CS5 look like the images I see in Lightroom and ACDSee? Should I? Then there's the printer I use online to consider. HELP! Can anyone offer any help? All the options under color settings both on CS3 and CS5 are identical and I even tried saving the ones from CS3 and loading them into CS5, just in case, to no avail.
Can anyone offer any help? I also uploaded screenshots of the different settings in ACDSee and in CS5 and CS3 in case that helps. Is it something to do with the Proof Setup settings? They are both set to Working CMYK. Oh, my aching head!
Thanks a lot for any help anyone can offer!
Phil

Thanks. I think I DO understand the basics of color management. I have attempted to callibrate my monitors many times and even paid someone to do it once all to no avail. I end up with washed out renderings which are different on each of my monitors and look NOTHING like the prints I get. All I'm trying to ascertain is why CS5 would render so entirely differently than ACDSee, Lightroom and even CS3. Even XPlorer2 agrees with everything other than CS5! And yet all the settings in CS5 SEEM to be the same as in CS3 so what else could be causing the washed out look? I'm also noticing CS5 is sometimes showing things marginally out of focus compared to other apps but I won't even get ionto that!
Thanks, and if anyone else has any thoughts on why this would be I'd appreciate it.
Phil

Need advice on best settings for a Quicktime compatible video

This is probably a simple question but I am getting frustrated trying to wade through all the settings.
I have a 12 minute video I put together from video that was shot at 1280x720 at 30 fps. All I'm trying to do is export it into a Quicktime friendly video. I see in the "Publish+Share" window, it has a "Quicktime: Use for email and playback on Mac" so I selected that. Then I'm presented with a bunch of video codec options. I've tried "H.264" and changed the Width and Height to "1280x720" to match my source videos. The aspect is set to "D1/DV NTSC Widescreen". But when I get the final video, there are black bars on all four sides.
So I'm hoping someone can suggest the proper settings to use so that my video is able to fill up the screen without black bars on all four sides and is Quicktime compatible. Thanks

farmerdwightks
If you have Premiere Elements 12 set for 1280 x 720 720p30 project, then, if you please look at the following choices of export
If you want QuickTime
Publish+Share
Computer
QuickTime
with Presets = NTSC DV 16:9
then under the Advanced Button/Video Tab of that preset, change the Export Setting to look like
I think that you were going in the right direction, but did not get all the necessary settings in place. Please compare my settings with what you were trying.
This will give you your 720p as H.264.mov.
You could also consider
Publish+Share
Computer
AVCHD
with Presets = MP4 - HD 720p24
and then under the Advanced Button/Video Tab of the preset change the Export Settings to look like
You could change the Bitrate Encoding to VBR, 2 Pass and other, but for now leave as is.
This will give you your 720p30 file as AVCHD.mp4.
Please review and then let us know if this worked for you.
Thank you.
ATR

When closing Firefox after upgrading to Ver. 4 it no longer prompts to save tabs. Advice given was: "Settings may be set incorrectly If your Firefox settings are configured differently, the prompt will not occur. " What settings do I need to change?

Every time I close Firefox I lose all the tabs and have to re-establish them when re-starting Firefox. I cannot find any provision in the options to change that.

A slow boot time can be caused by login items.
User Login Items:
    Flux
    NoSleep
    ClipMenu
    Canon IJ Network Scanner Selector2
    BetterTouchTool
    USBOverdriveHelper
    TotalFinder
    Gmail Notifr
Open System Preferences > Users & Groups > Login Items
Remove one login item noted above then restart your Mac to test. It may be one or multiple items causing the slow boot.

Looking for advice on export settings - one file to suit all purposes?

Hi all, here is my current workflow when exporting:
Adobe Premiere CS5 - Export to mpeg2-bluray or h264-bluray 5.1 file using surcode plugin, which gives me a seperate video and audio file which I then import into encore cs5 to author a bluray and/or dvd from. I then keep the original seperate audio and video files as an archive.
Now I have upgraded to premiere CC 2014 I can not find a 1080p 25p export preset under either mpeg or h264 bluray. Somebody told me that I have to select upper fields first if I want 25p.. Not sure why this is the case with CC and wasnt with CS5?
Anyway, this guy also said I'm losing quality by exporting my master in the way I do and that I should try something like cineform mov. I did this and the quality looked great on PC. I also got 25p in the options which puts my mind at rest about horrible interlaced lines popping up somewhere and although I didnt see the term surcode mentioned anywhere, I managed to get 5.1 audio in this file too.
The problem with this method is that a) The file didn't import into encore CS5 (I was told it had too many audio streams for that file type) and also the file doesn't play back on my WDTV media player which is not essential but would be a nice plus (even if I need to buy a new media player)
So with this in mind, which format/s would you suggest I export to?
I would really appreciate your input!

this guy also said I'm losing quality by exporting my master in the way I do
your friend is right
mpeg2 is highly compressed and not the best option for archiving
for archives, i recommend exporting a lossless, full resolution master file
that mirrors the frame rate and scan type of your final sequence
my preferred format for this purpose is the free ut video codec*
lossless - win or mac:
http://www.videohelp.com/tools/Ut-Video-Codec-Suite
you can then use your lossless, archive-ready master to quickly and easily
encode files for other delivery options like blu-ray or web
a) The file didn't import into encore CS5 (I was told it had too many audio streams for that file type)
if you need to burn a blu-ray, you should use your lossless master
to encode mpeg2 video / audio for import into encore
) and also the file doesn't play back on my WDTV media player which is not essential but would be a nice plus (even if I need to buy a new media player)
ut .avi files play fine in windows media player,
and i assume ut .mov files play fine in quicktime player*
*i don't use cineform, and can't comment on it's merits or faults
*i use a pc, and encode .avi files
hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!

MOVED: Some further advice on BIOS settings

This topic has been moved to BIOS.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=97654.0

I agree with Osnavi!
You wont note difference in performance if you don't play fairly modern games, and hardly then. Ít is allowance for the g. card to keep very big size pictures in normal memory, you could say. As new g. cards got so much memory onboard, I don't think you need worry whether to have 64 or 128 MB aperture, even if playing modern games.
I have had some bad experiences of Fast write and Radeon cards, though I can't absolutely point to that as a reason. Could be what model of graphics card you got.

Advice on upgrade, settings, merging catalog

Do I need to start all over in setting up LR4 from LR3. It's been so long since I set everything up in LR3...I don't remember how I did it all! (Preferences, metadata, etc) Is there a way to bring all of that over in the upgrade process? (The box is still sitting on the shelf.)
I now have LR3 catalog, LR4 catalog from the beta. How do I, at least, get the LR4-beta catalog into the new lr4? I also don't want to clutter up my computer with 3 versions of LR. Will LR4-beta disappear after 31 March? What happens if I don't get the LR4 (actual) going by then? (I'm leaving the country for 2 weeks in a couple of days and won't be home until the 30th.)
Many questions. Haven't upgraded before....
Thanks!

There should not be an issue with upgrading in place - you have already given me my caveat. <grin>
You will need to upgrade integration components for every VM after upgrading Hyper-V. New ICs come with each release of the OS. Should not need to upgrade the VM's OSes other than that.
PowerShell. Can be used to change all VMs to not autostart and then change it back to autostart after everything is updated and you are happy. Can also be used to shutdown all the VMs instead of manually clicking on each one. I would definitely
make the change to not autostart - you are going to have more than one reboot in there, because you are also going to be applying patches. Don't want all those VMs yo-yo-ing
If you are using System Center to manage/monitor any 2012 R2 servers (after upgrade), you will need to upgrade to SC 2012 R2 because 2012 SP1 does not work with Windows Server 2012 R2.
. : | : . : | : . tim

JVC HDV Capture settings + Hardware advice for HDV capture

We have 6.02 FCP Studio2. We shot JVC HDV 720 60P footage (1280 x 720) and are trying to capture thru FCP. We have the JVC GY-HD200U camera and the JVC BR-HD50 outboard deck. Other than the AJA HD 422 device, what are my options (hardware and software) to capture with Log & Capture in FCP? I need In/Out points of course.
JVC HDV says it has a great HDV workflow in FCP, but they don't tell you how (at least where we have looked on their website)
Unfortunately, Blackmagic's Intensity Series cannot control the devices via the HDMI link (One HDMI output is on the JVC BR-HD50 deck). We thought that might work.
Can anyone give us advice on the settings in FCP to control our HDV deck or Camera? We would prefer to keep everything digital, via firewire
Thank you everyone for your help. I did search for this topic and found nothing. I am sorry if this has already been covered...

Connect your deck or camera via firewire to your Mac, and then select the easy setup in FCP's FCP menu that matches the format you've shot. I'm pretty sure for a device control setting either your camera or deck would use HDV Firewire Basic as a device control setting. Other than that it should use the stock preset for the format you've shot.
Jerry

3G not working after ios7 update. Internet connection works with wifi but out and about phone won't conect to the internet via 3G. I've tried resetting the network settings but that doesn't work?

I am not very technically minded and don't know where to start! Any (simple) advice gratefully received.

Settings >> Cellular Data >> Cellular Data Networks
you need to fill in the fields with correct data

Payment Advice with DME format

Hi Experts,
I have done a settings for DME format for Canada. It is generating properly, but while making payment run I am unable to get Remittance Payment advice using same settings.
My abaper said that there is some print program needs to be attached in the setting for generating the advice.
Please help me to resolve this issue.

Hi,
Good morning and greetings,
Please go through the following link
http://help.sap.com/saphelp_erp2005vp/helpdata/en/70/42753ced012a49e10000000a11402f/frameset.htm
and also go through the following SAP OSS Notes
Note 395679 - PMW: Overview of available formats
Please reward points if found useful
Thanking you
With kindest regards
Ramesh Padmanabhan

Advice on tweaking settings

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for