Anyone tested 24" iMac with FW800 drive?

Just wondering if anyone has tried using a FW800 drive with the 24" iMac?
I tried my Macally enclosure with a Samsung 250 GB drive. I found that the write speed was about 70% of the read speed (using Quickbench 2.1)---very similar to my old dual G5.
I was hoping that they had fixed this probem. Guess not.

Glorfindeal is correct. See the specs here:
http://www.apple.com/imac/specs.html
The first iMac with Firewire 800 is the 24" iMac.

Similar Messages

Has anyone had any problems with fusion drive? If so, what kind of problems, and were they easily corrected?

I'm looking at buying a new computer. Has anyone had any problems with fusion drive on iMac? If so, what kind of problems, and were they easily corrected?

NOPE!
I better not! My iMac is only a week old. And, if I did have any problems with it, I would let Apple deal w/it! I do not troubleshoot when I'm under warranty. That's Apple job!

How to add a SSD to 2010 iMac with 1tb drive

How to add a SSD to 2010 iMac with 1tb drive? I have a mid-2010 iMac with 1tb HD and would like to either replace the HD with SSD -or- add 256 or 400gb SSD to maybe the Optical Drive and use it as the boot drive. Is this possible with Model 11,2? i thought i\I'd read it was, but recently am reading my system is too old - OWC have SSD drives for newer models not Model 11,1 -or- 11,2

Any SATA SSD will work, whatever you are reading is incorrect.
You have 2 choices with this model-install the SSD in place of the HDD or the Superdrive.
If you are installing in place of Superdrive you will need some form of SSD Caddy-these can be found on the cheap at places like eBay, also OWC sell one called the DataDoubler.
Guide:https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+iMac+Intel+21.5-Inch+EMC+2389+Dual+Hard+ Drive/8643
If installing in place of old HDD you will notice that the propietary Temperature Sensor will not fit on the new drive, you will need to replace this with a sensor such as this or this
You will also need a 3.5inch to 2.5inch drive adaptor such as this
Guide: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+21.5-Inch+EMC+2389+Hard+Drive+Replacemen t/6284
If you still have doubts contact OWC as mentioned above, I would start deciding whether your Superdive is needed or if you want to swap out the HDD.
Hope this points you in the right direction

What external dvd drive is compatible with IMAC with optical drive

what external drive is compatiblee with IMAC with optical driv

As far as my experience goes I have had all external dvd drives work throu USB, the USB stands for Universal Seriel Bus and that means the drives are already in the device, so you can probably just go to best buy or to new egg and order a cheap one.
If you have usb 3.0 I would go with that since its one of the faster ones and you will save money on using a thunder bolt device, and trust me a $17 dvd player works just as good as a $120 dvd player.

[Guide] Install and run Windows 7/8 from an external drive without using bootcamp (works for late 2012 iMacs with 3TB drive)

This is a copy of a post from my blog, you can also Read it on my blog...
Introduction
After I received my new iMac with a 3 TB Fusion Drive, I was disappointed when I realized that Bootcamp was not running on this model and prevented me from installing Windows on it. I wanted to take advantage of the powerful iMac hardware to play games but I couldn't.
There are a few ways of working around this limitation, but I found most of them quite complex and most of the time they required formatting the internal hard drive or repartitioning it and go for a brand new installation of Mac OS X. I was not comfortable with that.
But there is another way, and that is to install Windows on an external hard drive, using either USB or Thunderbolt. Personally I used a Lacie Rugged 1 TB drive that has both USB3 and Thunderbolt connectors. Both work very well.
This guide may interest you if:
You have an internal hard drive of more than 2TB and you can't run bootcamp at all (like late 2012 iMacs with a 3TB drive)
You have limited space or you don't want to dedicate disk space on your internal hard disk drive to a Windows installation
What this guide will make you do:
It will make you erase all your data from your external USB3/Thunderbolt hard drive
It will make you install Windows on your external USB3/Thunderbolt hard drive
It will make you install bootcamp drivers
What this will not make you do:
It will not make you modify anything on your internal Mac hard drive
It will not make you use or install the bootcamp assistant
It will not activate the Preference Pane for the default boot drive. You have to boot by pressing the ALT key to manually select your boot drive each tome you want to boot Windows.
What you'll need
An external hard drive with a USB3 and/or Thunderbolt connector. This drive will be formatted so ensure you saved your files before going further. You can use either an SSD drive or a classic hard drive.
A Windows 7 or 8 install DVD or ISO (check whether to install 32 or 64 bits versions based on your Bootcamp drivers) and the corresponding Windows serial number.
One of the following:
Mac OS X with a Windows 7 or 8 Virtual Machine (use VMWare Fusion or Parallels Desktop for example. Note: VMWare Fusion seems to have some issues with Thunderbolt and USB3. Plug your drive to a USB2 enclosure or hub to work around this -it worked for me-, or use another VM software) → Read the important note below
A PC running Windows 7 or 8 → Read the important note below
Windows AIK (free) running on your Virtual Machine or on your PC, or just the imagex.exe file (the rest of the Windows AIK package is not needed)
Download imagex.exe
Download Windows AIK (this download and installation is not required if you have already downloaded imagex.exe)
Bootcamp drivers for your Mac. You can get these either by running bootcamp from your Mac (Applications > Utilities > Bootcamp) or, if like me you have a 3TB drive and can't run bootcamp at all, use the direct download links here.
A USB stick to store your bootcamp drivers
IMPORTANT: If your Mac has a 64 bits processor, your Windows Virtual Machine on OSX, your Windows installation on your PC and your Windows DVD/ISO must also be in 64 bits!
Step by Step guide
Step 1: Get the install.wim file
If you have a Windows ISO file:
Mount the ISO
If you're on OS X: double click on the ISO file
If you're on on Windows 7: Use a software like Virtual Clone Drive (free)
If you're on Windows 8: double click on the ISO file
Open the mounted drive, then go to the "sources" folder and locate the "install.wim" file. Save this file to C:\wim\ on your Windows installation or virtual machine.
If you have a Windows DVD: open the "sources" folder on the DVD and locate the "install.wim" file. Save this file to C:\wim\ on your Windows installation or virtual machine.
IMPORTANT: If instead of a "install.wim" file, you have "install.esd", you can not continue this step by step guide. And an ESD file can not be converted into a WIM file. So you must get a version of the Windows installation DVD/ISO that has an install.wim file.
Step 2: Clean, partition and format your external hard drive
On your Windows installation or virtual machine, plug in your external hard drive (can be plugged using USB2, USB3 or Thunderbolt at this stage)
Open the command prompt in administrator mode (cmd.exe). To run it in administrator mode, right click on cmd.exe > Run as admin.
Type the following and hit enter to open the disk partitioner utility:
diskpartType the following and hit enter to list your drives:
list disk
This will display a list of disks mounted on your computer or virtual machine. Make sure your drive is listed here before you continue.Identify the disk ID of your external hard drive. Replace # by your real external disk ID in the command below:
select disk #Clean all partitions by typing the following (warning: this will erase all data from your external drive!):
clean
Create the boot parition by typing the following followed by the enter key:
create partition primary size=350
This will create a 350MB partition on your external driveFormat the partition in FAT32 by typing the following:
format fs=fat32 quick
Set this partition to active by typing:
active
Assign a letter to mount this partition. We will use letter B in our example. If B is already used on your PC, replace B by any other available letter:
assign letter=b
Windows will detect a new drive and probably display a pop-up. Ignore that.Create the Windows installation partition using all the remaining space available on the external drive by typing the following:
create partition primary
Format the new partition in NTFS:
format fs=ntfs quick
Assign a letter to mount this partition. We will use letter O in our example. If O is already used on your PC, replace O by any other available letter:
assign letter=o
Windows will detect a new drive and probably display a pop-up. Ignore that.Exit the disk partitioner utility by typing:
exit
Step 3: Deploy the Windows installation image
Still using the command prompt in admin mode (you didn't close it, did you? ), locate the imagex.exe file mentioned in the "What you'll need" section and access its folder. In our example, we have put this file in C:\imagex\imagex.exe
Type the following and hit enter (remember to replace o: with the letter you have chosen in the previous step):
imagex.exe /apply C:\wim\install.wim 1 o:
This will take some time. The Windows installation image is being deployed to your external driveOnce done, type the following to create the boot section (remember to replace o: and b: with the letters you've chosen in the previous step):
o:\windows\system32\bcdboot o:\windows /f ALL /s b:
If you get an error message saying that you can't run this program on your PC, then most probably you are running on a 32 bits installation of windows and you're trying to deploy a 64 bits install. This means you did not read the important notes in the beginning of this guide
If you get an error message on the options that can be used with the BCDBOOT command, then it's because you're installing Windows 7, and the /f option is not supported. If that is the case, remove /f ALL from the command and retry.
Step 4: Boot from your external drive and install Windows
Plug in your external drive:
If you've done all the previous steps from a Windows PC, unplug your external drive from your PC and plug it to your Mac, either on a USB3 or a Thunderbolt port.
If you've done all the previous steps from your Mac using a Virtual Machine, ensure the external drive is plugged in to a USB3 or Thunderbolt port. Using USB2 should also work but you'll get very poor performance so I don't recommend doing that.
Reboot your Mac and once the bootup sound is over, immediately press the ALT (option) key and release it only when the boot drives selection screen appears. If you did not get the boot drives selection screen, reboot and try again. The timing to press the ALT (option) key is quite short. It must not be too early or too late.
On the boot selection screen, choose "Windows" using the arrow keys on your keyboard, then press enter.
The Windows installation starts. Follow the on-screen instructions as normal. The installation program will restart your computer one or 2 times. Don't forget to press ALT (option) right after the bootup sound, and boot on Windows again each time to continue the installation.
Step 5: Install bootcamp drivers
Once the Windows installation is complete, plug in the USB stick where you stored the bootcamp drivers (see "what you'll need" section), open it and right click on "setup.exe" and select "Run as admin". Follow the on-screen instructions.If you have an error saying that you can't run this program on this PC, obviously you have installed a 32 bits version of Windows and the bootcamp drivers for your Mac are made for a 64 bits version. You have to restart the whole guide and make sure to get a 64 bits version of Windows this time!
Once the bootcamp drivers are all installed, reboot and press ALT (option) after the bootup sound to boot on Windows again. And Voilà, you have Windows installed on your USB3/Thunderbolt drive running on your Mac.
Now each time you want to boot on Windows, press and hold the ALT (option) key after the startup sound and select "Windows", then press Enter.

Hi i'm trying to follow your guide, I installed windows 8 on bootcamp to do it planning to remove it after the operation is done, but i get stuck at part 3: every command i give to imagex i get a pop-up ftom windws asking how do I want to open this kind of file install.wim and imagex does nothing, what do i have to do to stop those pop-ups?

Brand new Intel iMac with hard drive failure?

I have a two week old iMac. I shut it down last night. When I started it this morning I got a folder with a question mark. I had no warnings or indications of any problems prior to this. I had just loaded some Disney pictures and have no backup of them except an iPod that was synced last night. I used the OS install disk utility to look and there is no volume and no option to verify or repair. This is a maxed out iMac with 750 gig drive. Is this a known problem. Is there anyway to get the data? Do I need to start backing up every time touch the computer? Also are the songs and pictures on the ipod the same quality as the originals? Can I get them back?
The funny thing is, I had bought this computer to replace another one that was flakey with kernal panic. This is the end of the school year and my wife (a teacher) uses this one for paper work. I thought I had done a nice thing for her. HELP!!!!

Yes HDDs can go bad, right out of the box. All manufacturers have hardware failures of new product. We have had them reported here on occasion. In fact, we are more likely to hear about the failures than the millions of folks that got good ones. People don't post, "Hey, I got my new Mac and the HDD is fine!"
The question mark at startup is an indication that the Mac can't find its boot volume and HDD failure is one scenario to explain why it can't. The good thing is that it is covered by Apple's warranty, so you need to call Apple Care and initiate a claim to get a replacement/repair in the works asap.
I know that is a pain, but it happens occasionally.
The music and photos on your iPod should be exactly what is on the HDD. The exception may be photos that you have altered in iPhoto before transferring them to the iPod. iPhoto manages originals separately from modifieds. I don't have an iPod, but in the case of a modified photo, I doubt the original was also transfered.

Trying to install iwork '09 from dvd on new imac with no dvd drive.....iwork is brand new (bought off ebay) in unopened box....I have at my disposal an older imac with dvd drive and a 16GB thumb drive...what is best way to load iwork on the new imac?

bought my mom a new imac this xmas...didn't realize it has no dvd drive....just picked up a new unopened version of iwork '09 for her to use off of ebay....need to get it loaded on the new dvddriveless imac......I have an imac at my house with a drive and a thumb drive i could bring over to her house if I could somehow burn an image of the iwork dvd on the thumb drive...is this possible? is there a better solution other than buying an external dvd drive?

First use Disk Utilty to make a disk image of the iWork disc on your iMac. Then there are two easy ways to install on your mothers new iMac. One is to copy to your USB thumb drive, visit your mother and install from the thumb drive. The other is to use a free upload and download service like www.wetransfer.com. Upload the .dmg disk image via www.wetransfer.com, then your mother downloads and installs. After installation you'll need to update iWork for Mountain Lion compatibility.

Issues with FW800 drive

Not entirely sure if this is the correct forum, but it's sort of a general OS question.
I had all my work (as a graphic designer) and my email on a FW400 drive, which I switch between my office workstation and my home-office workstation. Everything worked seamlessly - unplug from the office G5, plug in at home (exactly the same spec G5), and carry on.
I bought a FW800 drive (Icecube Pleiedes 300GB) and put all my work and email on that. I didn't pay any attention to the format when I bought it, and have since discovered its MS-DOS (FAT32) formatted.
The issue I have is that after I've moved the drive from one workstation to the other, my Freehand documents 'lose' their links to image files. I can link them back up but it's a real pain and can take a while if there's 20 or more images.
Is this due to it being FAT32 (and would reformatting to Mac Extended be worthwhile), or is there another factor here? An extension to the question would be "What are the disadvantages to running my external FW800 drive with FAT32 formatting?"
Thanks in advance,
Simon.

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
I'm not sure if it is due to the FAT32 formatting, however, it sounds quite possible. FAT32 is a format primarily used for PC drives. And PC file naming conventions are different than Macs even in FAT32. As such names that would be allowed on the Mac system won't necessarily work in FAT32.
In the future don't rely on any one drive to keep your files. And always format the drive in the Mac format unless you have reason to share with PCs a lot. In which case, don't use that drive as a backup drive, and simply as a means to transfer data. Use another drive to backup the data to.

RAID1 with FW800 drives

This used to work until I upgraded to 10.4.7 but....
I have 3 different RAID1 drive sets connected to a single 10.4.8 server. All six of the external drives are connected via FW800 with the drives all being 300GB.
For some reason after upgrading to 10.4.7, my drive sets are rebuilding daily with some out-and-out failing in the rebuild process. I thought I was experiencing a rash of defective drives, but each drive works flawlessly on it's own.
When I delete the RAID set the drives will mount 99% of the time as the server is power-cycled.
Any ideas?

I don't think I would dare running shared FW disks and then having 6 of them hanging from the same FW 800 port(s) raided with RAID 1 (ouch)...
Depending on the case (cooling/power) and sleep they are probably not ideal as the main drives, as backup drives - fine.

Upgrading iMac with CD drive only to Tiger?

How can I upgrade an older iMac with only a CD drive (no DVD drive) to Tiger? Can I boot to DVD from a USB external HD?

sjesser:
Can I boot to DVD from a USB external HD?
No. Your Mac will not boot from a USB drive. You need a Firewire device.
To install Tiger your computer will need to meet the minimum system requirements for Tiger.
You will need to purchase the Full Retail version of Tiger, which can be purchased from the Apple Store or, on CDs, from applerescue. See this article for options on Installing Tiger without a DVD drive.
Be aware that Computer specific or upgrade versions should be avoided since they are optimized for the computer to which they are specific and will therefore very likely cause problems during or after installation. On the legal side, it may be a violation of the Software License Agreement which statesThis License allows you to install and use one copy of the Apple Software on a single computer at a time. This License does not allow the Apple Software to exist on more than one computer at a time...
Good luck.
cornelius
Message was edited by: cornelius

How do I download my DVD Lightroom 5 on my iMac with no drive?

How do I download my DVD Lightroom 5 on my iMac with no DVD drive? Is there another way to get the program on my computer? I have a trial copy currently on my computer.

Just download the version from Adobe.com here: http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?platform=Macintosh&product=113
and use your serial number. This is the current version and newer than what is on your DVD.

MBP 13" 2.53 Ghz: with FW800 drive connected the Wi-Fi Internet connection

I have a brand new MBP 13" (2.53 Ghz) connected via Wi-Fi to Internet.
If I connect a 320 GB Lacie external Hard drive to the FW800 port, the Internet connection is lost.
I use a 800-to-400 cable and i have no problem on another MBP 15,4" and on my MacPro latest generation.

Ok I made the test and followed your instructions. Unfortunately I did not found the files I marked strikethrough. Conclusion: it didn't help. Sorry. My router lose the connection and restart itself when I load big file.
lupunus wrote:
feilithai wrote:
Since upgrading to Lion my iMac (Intel Core 2 Duo 2,4 GHz) frequently looses connection to the internet. Wi-Fi signal is still displayed as very strong but there is no data transmission.
As you are upgraded from 10.6.8 to Lion, that may help:
Switch off wifi on the machine.
Then go on and delete the bold printed files mentioned below. As you are using Lion, the Library is hidden. You have to use "go to" - "go to folder" on finder (menu bar) to access them.
You will find the files on your system drive (not your home folder) as follow:
/library/preferences/com.apple.preferences.accounts.plist
/library/preferences/com.apple.preferences.sharing.plist
/library/preferences/SstemConfiguration/preferences.plist
/library/preferences/SstemConfiguration/com.apple.airport.preferences.plist
If there are files in this folders with the same name but additional .orig at the end, delete them too.
On the wireless section of the system settings uncheck "Ask to join new networks"
Reboot the machine.
Join your wireless again.
Lupunus

Upgraded my 2009 iMac with ssd drive

Hello
I wanted to share my experience with upgrading my late 2009 iMac replacing the DVD drive with a 240GB SSD drive and upgrading the hard drive to a 3TB hard drive. Back a year ago I upgraded the factory 1TB with a seagate 2TB which was the main internal drive holding the osx. With needing more room I discovered the seagate 3TB also had the necessary heat sensor connector, so I knew that 3TB drive would work. Adding the 240GB SSD was a last minute decision. Plus, I seldom use the factory standard DVD drive and discovered that my LG brand USB dvd drive actually works when attached to the iMac. Operates just like the factory DVD drive.
So having done an upgrade before on this machine, I was not too concerned, but have to add that all did not go well this time.
Alter removing the screen and all the screws, then while carefully unplugging all the wires attached to the monitor, that one plug labeled LCD TEMP, that tiny little plug, broke at the circuit board. I was not using too much pressure and suspect the stress on these delicate connections had reached the limit. Both from the previous upgrade, and now another. The plug was simply stressed and ready to give way.
Maybe this plug was defective, I don't know, but the snap-in plug pulled the top of the black plastic circuit board connector off, exposing the two copper connector prongs. Not only that, but the two copper prongs that were now exposed were curled upward. Making re-attachment of the plug near impossible. So I figured maybe i could re-attach the tiny LCD TEMP plug back onto the exposed prongs and then electrical tape over to hold in-place. But first I had to somehow get the curl out of the two copper connector prongs for the plug to connect.
Well, while using a small screw driver to try to flatten out the curled copper prongs, one copper prong exceeded its stress level and broke off. Could not take the stress of being bent and messed with. Everything inside these machines are extremely delicate, as everyone knows only too well that has ever opened up their imac.
And now, a broken LCD TEMP circuit board connector. What to do, what to do?
Kill two birds with one stone.....
But first I wondered if this LCD TEMP sensor would keep the system from operating, so I put the machine back together, half way together, and powered it up.
The machine came to life, however, the CPU fan was running crazy fast 3800 and noisy as ****.
Googling this, I came across another person that had the same LCD TEMP cable break, and saying their CPU fan went crazy in the same way.
So I realized somehow the system needed this LCD TEMP connector, connected.
What to do, what to do?
I ran over to radio shack and bought the lowest wattage soldering iron they sold.
Now, this killing two birds with one stone part...
I had to somehow solder two new wires onto the spot where this LCD TEMP board connector attached to the circut board.
No easy task since there was only a hair-lines space between the two circuit board connectors. I had to somehow achieve the impossible.
And while at it, killing off the second bird, I could replace this LCD TEMP wire itself with new much longer wire set, making this disassemble - reassemble thing much easier.
Well I pulled it off.
I was able to solder two new wires to the spots on the circuit board where this LCD TEMP connector sits.
Without bleeding solder onto the partner connector just a hairs-line spaced between.
Then I patched in this new and longer pair of wires from the circuit board LCD TEMP to the monitor LCD TEMP sensor.
And finally, replaced the DVD drive with the new 240GB SSD drive, slapped the machine back together half way just enough to power it up, cloned the osx hard drive to the SSD drive, "option-restart" the machine and booted from the new SSD drive, everything working as it should.
I even dismounted the orginal internal hard drive holding the osx, and ran the system to ensure everything worked, which it did.
Next, tore the iMac back down, replaced the 2TB hard drive with a new 3TB hard drive, and for a final time slapped the system back together.
Everything is operating perfect,
Naturally, had to format the new 3TB hard drive, and will move all my iTunes media back to that new drive I had temporally stored on an external USB drive.
Fans are all running at normal speeds.
System is once again silent when running.
And this is the last and final time I will ever upgrade this particular machine sober.
Just some advice, this is some of the unforeseen mishaps that can occur when upgrading any iMac.
And this could have ended in disaster.
Luckily however, I had just enough luck and experience to get thru the hurdles, now I have a better, bigger, faster iMac.
Like they say, this self upgrading is not for the faint of heart.
For awhile I seen myself listing this on eBay as a dead 27" late 2009 iMac for sale for parts.
Not the case, well at least not the case this time....

Congratulations on not panicing and stating it like it is. Clearly upgrading the internals of an iMac is not for the faint of heart, I plan on keeping your post if for no other reason to show others why a do-it-yourself on an iMac is a pretty foolish thing to undertake.

Error on win 7 install on iMac with 2 drives

OK been round this a few times.
iMac (i7)
1Tb HD & 256 SSD
used bootcamp to partition
made it through win install
and clikced Bootcamp partition, then advanced, then format.
Finishes format and the I click
NEXT
error
Windows is unable to install to the selected location.
Error: 0x80300024
Which someone online said is due to having more tha one drive.
I dont really want to crack open the iMac and remove a drive.
Suggestions?
thanks
b

I haven't heard of any fix from Adobe but maybe this will hwlp.
I kept getting an error this morning when trying to install Windows updates on my PC. One of the updates was trying to update Visual C++ (vc_red) from a folder on the C drive which was locked. The folder had a very long name (2f4b86.....). I kept getting a popup box pointing to the folder but it would not install the update from there. I had to copy the folder to the C:\Users\Public Downloads folder to get it to install. I mention this because vc_red seems to be involved with the previous Acrobat XI installation issue I had.
I would try looking at your installed updated and see if you have either update installed.:
Microsoft Visual C++ 2005 Service Pack 1 Redistributable Package (KB2538242)
Microsoft Visual C++ 2008 Service Pack 1 Redistributable Package (KB2538243)
Removing them may allow Acrobat XI to be installed.

I am waiting for a new iMac with two drives: SSD conventional hard drive. How can I transfer only a certain number of applications to the SSD and the rest to the physical hard disk drive?

I am expecting a new iMac (i7 with SSD). How can I transfer only certain applications along with the system, library etc. to this limited (space) HD and other applications to the conventional disk HD in order to save space on the SSD?
Thank you,
Gilles

Tom Lassiter wrote:
I have the same scenario, using an SSD for my start-up drive. I have copied my Applications folder to a mechanical hard drive and created symbolic link to it. The symbolic link resides on the SSD and works properly.
That may not be the best solution. Many updaters expect apps, especially Apple apps, to be in the /Applications folder on the OSX drive; if there are updates, the apps may not be found, thus may not be updated. I don't know if the installers/updaters will follow a symbolic link or not.
DItto some apps, especially Adobe apps, won't even work if they're anywhere else. Again, I don't know if they'll follow a symbolic link, either.

Anyone tested 24" iMac with FW800 drive?

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