Apple Statement

Its blatantly Obvious there are Massive Problems with the release of iOS 8.
APPLE Please make some sort of Public Statement for a timeframe to address some of these issue, by which I mean an estimated date for another patch, albeit a partial fix for some issues.
Setting aside the bloggs, you get the impression that Apple are unaware of these issues as there is NO OFFICIAL ACKNOWLEDGEMENT something is drastically wrong.
iPhone 5S
1) Slow & Sluggish
2) Battery Drain on WiFi (Totally Drained in less than 5 Hours)
If I'm connected to WiFi and the phone is on charge it can't keep up with the drain.
3) Phone running Very Very Hot
4) Anything that Sync's using iCloud is painfully slow and unreliable.
Don't know how to make my comments to Apple without posting them hear.
SO PLEASE LETS HAVE AN OFFICIAL ACKNOWLEDGEMENT and a Statement plan

Colin-H wrote:
iPhone 5S
1) Slow & Sluggish
2) Battery Drain on WiFi (Totally Drained in less than 5 Hours)
If I'm connected to WiFi and the phone is on charge it can't keep up with the drain.
3) Phone running Very Very Hot
4) Anything that Sync's using iCloud is painfully slow and unreliable.
I'm not seeing any of these issues with my iPhone 5S. I'd recommend you make an appointment at the Genius Bar at your local Apple Store to have your phone evaluated.

Similar Messages

HT1430 I do a hard reset of my iPhone every so often because I feel it improves performance, but Apple states 'Reset ONLY if the device is not responding'. Forget about my OCD on this, but is their any reason my Apple stresses the ONLY DO THIS if not resp

I do a hard reset of my iPhone every so often because I feel it improves performance, but Apple states 'Reset ONLY if the device is not responding'. Forget about my OCD on this, but is their any reason my Apple stresses the ONLY DO THIS if not responding?

deggie wrote:
Because it is more far-reaching than just turning the phone off and back on, it completely takes out anything in volatile memory, etc. I do reset mine if I notice problems such as no email coming in, text message issues, etc. but the same thing could probably be accomplished by just turning the phone off and on in your case.
Thanks deggie, I think I get it now. Volatile memory (I had to look it up!) is memory that is lost on loss of power, so it's as you say... I'm not achieving anything on a normally functioning iPhone as on-off achieves the same result!... Thanks

Decreased Battery Performance when using SL. Apple states I am alone..

This thread is mainly aimed at people that are using a mid 2009 unibody MacBook Pro 13" or upwards that came pre-installed with Leopard. Since upgrading to Snow leopard have you noticed a significant decrease in how long the battery lasts while using the machine in the same fashion?
Am I alone? I first reported this issue to the Dutch customer service team back in October 2009 and since then have fought it all the way to make Apple admit that there is a problem with a minority of customers. To this day according to executive customer relations, I am the only person who has reported this issue to them. I find this hard to believe as there is a mass of information/threads/blogs etc on the internet with many people complaining about the same issue.
The following is an email I sent to the [email protected] email as a last resort.
Dear Steve,
I am writing to you as a last resort hoping that my complaint will be dealt with professionally as I have actually given up all hope with the Apple customer service. I do not expect that you will personally read this letter but I just trust that someone will care and pass this to someone that will treat my complaint seriously as I really am losing all faith with Apple.
I purchased a brand new Macbook Pro 13" mid 2009 model at the end of June 2009. Around 3 weeks after I purchased the machine I received a message from Apple stating that I was eligible for a copy of Snow Leopard as it was compatible with my machine and because I had just purchased a new Mac. I upgraded the Mac to Snow Leopard without any issues. It wasn't until a few weeks later that I noticed a massive reduction in battery performance. When I ran the machine on Leopard I would easily get the advertised 7 hour battery life while doing basic web browsing with all the battery settings set to the Mac default recommended settings. On Snow Leopard I would not get anything more than 4 hours completing the same tasks.
I contacted Apple about this and was provided with the following reference number XXXXXXXXX I was basically told that I should monitor what I was doing etc and try using the screen on the lowest setting to see if this would improve the performance, it did not. I am a busy man and work in graphic design so unfortunately I put up with the battery issue until my Hard Drive decided to die in April. I contacted Apple again about this and was again provided with a reference number XXXXXXXXXX this time I was asked to do various steps to help fix the machine which did not work. Eventually I had the machine booked in for repair. When the machine was booked in for repair I also stated that I would like the battery issue addressed once and for all as I still only get around 4 hours charge. I was told this would be looked into. After 2 weeks of having no machine (and losing out on work) I received my Mac back with a new Hard drive installed as the old one was corrupted. I asked the Apple employee if my battery had been addressed and it had not. I refused to except my machine back as the battery issue was not resolved. After another 2 weeks of not having my Mac (more loss of work on my account) I received it back this time a new battery and motherboard had been installed.
I returned to my office and reinstalled Snow Leopard, my Adobe Master Collection and charged to 100% I then tested the machine on battery. Again I received no more than 4 hours using BELOW recommended Mac battery settings. I contacted Apple again by telephone (another 0900 number call at my expense) and was messed around left right and centre. The employee on the telephone did not know what to do so transferred me to one of the Mac level 2 agents. I have never been spoken to so rudely and was even told that the only way I could expect 7 hours battery life from a MacBook Pro 2009 model is to use it with the lid closed. Ridiculous hey? I was also even told by one of the previous customer service agents that I could try using the machine with the battery disconnected. Even more ridiculous considering it is a unibody model.
At this point I started doing research on the issue and found that I was far from alone with the battery issue. I have found numerous people suffering from the same issue. Below are a few links containing the same issue.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=10337524&#10337524
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=11365892&#11365892
http://forums.cnet.com/5208-21565_102-0.html?threadID=357366
At this point I decided to try something different, something that was not recommended or mentioned by any Apple employee, sales or technical. I decided to reformat the HD and install Leopard back on the on the machine. I then completed a battery test and low and behold my 7 hours of battery life were fully back. I think this can safely say that the issue is clearly with the OSX and not the hardware.
I then contacted Apple customer service by phone (more 0900 numbers at my expense) I spoke to a senior Applecare advisor called XXXXX XXXXXXXX and explained my issue in full. I told xxxxxxx that I wanted this matter looking into and that I wanted a machine that would give me what is advertised using Snow Leopard, as know where on the Apple site or in the Snow Leopard documentation does it state ' Expect to lose 3 hours '
I provided xxxxxxxx with a system info file and he sent it the Apple engineering team. A week went by and I received an email from him with the report from engineering. Engineering basically blamed it ALL on 3rd party applications, they even blamed it on the weather widget stating that it is constantly updating and will drain power. My remote access software was also blamed which was not even running in the background.
1: The weather widget updates when you select it not constantly.
2: The weather widget is by DEFAULT installed on a machine so thus would be classed as an Apple product in my opinion.
That evening I decided to reformat my HD and reinstall Snow Leopard. This time I installed ONLY Apple software updates and nothing else. I then tested the battery again (getting very boring now) using the same settings as previous tests. This time I managed to have 4 hrs and 15 mins. Just 15 minutes more than what I had previously had. I then contacted xxxxxxx again and provided him with another system information file from the clean install. I explained that I had tested this with just the airport on and basic web browsing on various sites (my exact words) Another week went by and I received a call from xxxxxxx with his report from engineering. He said that Engineering wanted to know if I had tested this with basic web browsing or sat on Youtube or other flash based video streaming sites for 4 hours as this could reduce the battery life.
As you could imagine I was furious. I repeated myself to xxxxxxx about my tests and was told that he would go back to engineering. I received another call from xxxxxxx stating that engineering are looking into it. I asked how long it would take for an answer on this and we agreed on a 2 week time frame. It is now over 2 weeks and I have sent 2 emails to xxxxxx and still have not received a reply.
This issue has been going on since October 2009 when I first reported it. We are now in July 2010 and I am still suffering with this, as you can imaging this is unacceptable and not what one would expect from a company like Apple. My complaints summarized are below, I believe the obvious speak for themselves.
1: There is no disclaimer on the Apple site stating that Snow Leopard will decrease the performance of a battery on a machine that did not come preinstalled with Snow Leopard. Neither is this information provided on the installation PDF instructions that come with the Snow Leopard disc.
2: If there were such a disclaimer on the Apple site then why would I have my battery and motherboard replaced by the Apple repair team when there was clearly nothing wrong with them in the first place. Why was I never told this by any agent on the phone or in the Mac store? The answer seems clearly that this information is not available to the public or to Apple staff which is a big waste or my time as well as theirs.
3: I have missed out on work because of having my Mac in for repair for a total of 4 weeks. As mentioned above there was clearly no need to have had the battery or motherboard replaced.
4: I have spent money calling the 0900 numbers on numerous occasions simply getting passed around from Apple employee to Apple employee and still have no answer to my problem.
5: I have wasted so much of my own time clean erasing my hard drive including zero out of sectors and reinstalling operating systems, not to mention other software and Apple updates. All of this comes to many hours of total wasted time at my expense when I could have been working.
Where we stand now is that I am on the verge of taking legal proceedings with the Dutch Consumentenbond as this machine is not suitable to run with the Snow Leopard OSX when Apple advertise that it is.
I expect either a full refund of my MacBook Pro 13" mid 2009 or an exchange for a Macbook Pro 13" that comes with Snow Leopard preinstalled with the disc in the box. I also expect to be compensated for my loss of time, money I have spent on the phone to Apple and the loss of work while the machine was in for unnecessary repair.
I am really at the end of my patience with this issue and feel that I have been much more than fair with my reports, honesty and patience.
I trust to hear from somebody soon regarding this issue so that we can finally put it to a close once and for all in a professional manor.
Regards
I received a phone call within 14 hours of sending the email from executive customer relations. They came back with new information from engineering but did not think it was acceptable as engineering were now blaming my battery decrease on the assumption that my apartment might be too hot this causing the CPU to run at a higher temperature making the battery decrease quicker. We both agreed that it was an unacceptable answer.
The day after I received another call from them stating that engineering had now finished tests and came to the conclusion that when testing on Leopard and Snow Leopard on the MacBook Pro 2009 there was no difference in battery run time whats so ever. I found this hard to believe so asked exactly how the test was conducted. Was it conducted in the same fashion that I had spent the last 9 months talking about. ' Using below default energy saving settings with only airport on while completing basic web browsing '???
They confirmed this was not the case, engineering had basically turned the machines on, turned the screen right down to 1 bar and left them on screen saver over night. As you can imaging I was speechless (for a few seconds)
Apple seem consistent on NOT admitting that there is an issue with battery performance for a minority of customers. As is stands now engineering in Europe have now passed the case over to engineering in the US for further ' in-depth ' tests.
I know there are people out there that are suffering the same issues as myself and I welcome you to please contact me with your experiences. As the more of us that complain about this make it harder for Apple to deny this and brush it under the carpet.
Please feel free to reply to this thread or email me directly on [email protected]

Thomas A Reed wrote:
I mean this in the kindest way but please read the post
Please, nobody's going to waste their time reading all that! I don't know what you possibly could have said about this issue that took up so much space, but if you can't express it more concisely, it's probably not worth reading.
I have used SL on both a unibody MBP and an older MBP. On the older MBP, when I upgraded from Leopard to SL, I got a noticeable increase in battery life immediately. I have no such comparison on the unibody MBP, since it had SL installed to begin with, but I'll put it this way: I haven't come close to running out of power on it. I used it once for about 4 hours and still had more than a 1/3 charge. I could have easily used it for another couple hours, at least. And this was with a 17" MBP, which uses more power than your 13", and without much in the way of battery-saving going on. (Screen at full brightness, AirPort on and in use, Bluetooth on, etc.)
It's difficult to say that SL is the problem when it clearly isn't for everyone. What your problem is, I don't know, but maybe if you posted a more concise question you'd get some answers.
I think ..
This thread is mainly aimed at people that are using a mid 2009 unibody MacBook Pro 13" or upwards that came pre-installed with Leopard.....
at the beginning of the thread I made it pretty clear, if you are not affected by this then I'm happy for you, but then the thread is clearly not aimed at you. I can guarantee that I have tested this exactly the same way I did with Leopard and there is a significant decrease. I also know there are people out there that have gained battery life but there have also been many threads containing people who have lost battery life.

Look for official APPLE statement on future rSAP Bluetooth profile support

Hi,
My previous post was considered as "speculative" by the moderators (I still do not see what were the speculations but, OK, I let go)...
Therefore, I'll try to be still more factual:
_Fact 1_: current firmware of iPhone 3G does not support rSAP Bluetooth profile.
_Fact 2_: my car needs my phone to support rSAP Bluetooth profile for being able to use the built-in handsfree kit.
_Fact 3_: I cannot find anywhere an official statement from APPLE about this rSAP Bluetooth profile.
_My question_: can someone give me a link to such an official statement?
(I hope this will be considered as factual enough...

Hello. I know this is not exactly what you are looking for. But the link below is a document that informs you about current BT Profile that is used.
If you would like Apple to know about other BT Profiles needed to work with your car. Feel free to contact Apple via the feedback page below.
iPhone Bluetooth Headset and third-party Bluetooth-enabled devices
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1841
http://www.apple.com/feedback/iphone.html

Official apple statement?

with all these problems with the iphone 4 and media coverage etc,
why havnt apple released a official statement on the matter?? maybe thier silence is deafening?

why havnt apple released a official statement on the matter?
Nobody here would know that.

Email from Apple states there is a podcast error but gives no specifics. The feed validates and follows all Apple podcast spesifications.

I require information about an apparent error with my podcast feed.
I have tried numerous times to submit a podcast to Apple iTunes. There is no issue with the XML feed. It validates in both the W3C validator and the iTunes reccomended validation service.
The submision process works through iTunes without problem. However I keep receiving these email reposnes from Apple:
Dear podcast owner,
An error was encountered while trying to add your feed, [ http://feeds.mhpn.org.au/feeds/webinarsrss.aspx ].
Please correct the error and submit your feed again. For additional information, please consult the podcast FAQ at http://www.apple.com/itunes/podcasts/faq.html and technical specification at http://www.apple.com/itunes/podcasts/techspecs.html.
Sincerely,
The iTunes Store team
This email from Apple is generic and does not clarify what the error is nor how I can correct it.
I just spent over an hour and a half on the phone with Apple support. Was bumped to three consultants and two senior consultants who could not give me any information. The last senior consulatnt told me to try this forum.
Would appreciate any assistance/advice.
Thank you kindly.

iTunes Support won't help you diagnose problems in your feed. The feed validates in FeedValidator, and can be subscribed to manually in iTunes.
However, it's lacking what should be the first line:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
Also, the '.aspx' extension may be causing problems - this method of constructing and accessing feeds (which I don't know anything about) may not work in the Store (which is a quite different matter from the iTunes application, which is more robust). A direct link to the file, with the .xml extension, would be better.
Though it's not a fatal error, your feed is lacking the 'itunes:duration' tag - its absence may be an issue in the Store (certainly it is when people put it as 1 second, for example).
Otherwise the feed seems to be OK, but it's badly laid out which, though that shouldn't affect its usability, makes it difficult to look at for problems.
However there may be an issue with the actual media files. It's a requirement for the Store that the server can handle 'byte range requests': this is the method used by iPhones, consisting of requesting part of the file at a time rather than the entire file. The Terminal test for this shows this isn't working:
curl -I -r 200-300 http://feeds.mhpn.org.au/uploads/audio/MHPN_13_MAY_2013_RB.mp3
HTTP/1.1 416 Requested Range Not Satisfiable
Content-Length: 71741479
Content-Type: audio/mpeg
Last-Modified: Thu, 05 Sep 2013 10:27:49 GMT
Accept-Ranges: bytes
ETag: "69a1d79122aace1:0"
Server: Microsoft-IIS/7.5
X-Powered-By: ASP.NET
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 06:47:36 GMT
Content-Range: bytes */0
That is likely to get you rejected, though in that case they were originally saying so in the rejection notice (normally they don't give any reason) - they may have stopped doing that. In order to deal with that you will have either to get the server sorted out or find a server which can handle it.
You may find it helpful to look at my 'get you started' page on podcasting:
http://rfwilmut.net/pc

White iphone 4...Apple statement?

Is this the info from Apple we've been waiting for?
http://br.sys-con.com/node/1443419

Interesting. I wonder what--exactly--is "challenging" about making the white model? Anyway, that bl0ws; I was holding out for this color and looks like I may be waiting a little longer. O well. 3G, it's still just you and me

I will give my laptop to someone else, how do I unlink my apple id? Do I need to remove the apps I downloaded with my id?

I will give my laptop to someone else, how do I unlink my apple id? Is it just the app store unlink? Do I need to remove the apps I downloaded with my id? Will they get removed when I unlink my apple id?
Are there any other procedures I need to take into account?
Thanks

You need to remove all software that you acquired from the Mac App Store, including newer versions of OS X. These are all registered to you and encoded with your Apple ID in the licensed copy. You cannot legally pass any of the software to the new owner, which is why Apple states to erase the Mac and return it to the version of OS X that shipped from the factory on the Mac. You must also remove any older Apple software that you installed by DVD or pass the DVD to the new owner with the Mac.

Can iTunes share purchased content across Apple IDs within one household, OR

QUESTION ONE
Will iTunes share purchased content using TWOApple IDs, across different devices within one household?
QUESTION TWO
Should each device with a separate user have its own iCloud ID? CONCURRENTLY, should each device belonging to the SAME user use the SAME cloud ID?
QUESTION THREE
I think I "can" use one Apple ID, and just usedifferent iCloud IDs for EACH device. Am I fundamentally wrong? Am I legallywrong?
UNDERSTOOD FACTS:
1) Apple states, each person should have their own AppleID: http://support.apple.com/kb/HE37
2) iCloud servicesare: mail, contacts,calendar etc...
3) iTunes servicesare: music, videos, Apps, etc...
You can sync iTunes across up to5 different computers using your Apple ID: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1420, however there does not seem to be alimit of how many Apple devices youcan sync within using a single iTunes account (Apple ID). *NOTE: beware automaticsynchronization of new apps..
4) iTunesin the Cloud is a different animal altogether! This should allow sharing of all iTunes content across all “your” devices, aslong as it was purchased thru iTunes (If not, you need to shell out an additional $25/yr for iTunes Match)
SCENARIO: I got a new iPhone, and am giving theold iPhone to my spouse. ALL iTunes content has been managed and purchased using oneApple ID that matches one iCloud ID. Ideally, just like anyother family using multiple Apple products and usingiCloud; we would like to SHARE songs & Apps, but NOT share calendars, mail etc...(sharing contacts would be nice).
QUESTION FOUR
Under the above scenario, must I have a “.me email” account?
I have been reading threadsabout managing content across multiple devices, using different IDs, both AppleIDs and Cloud IDs, and there is a LOT of confusion. I'm visual, so I've attached the graphic illustrating how I "think" I should proceed. **I have not set up the new iPhone yet.
We do not have a Mac or a".me email" account, and we use Gmail.
Any help is appreciated!

I have the computer authorized to use the Apple ID content (been using iTunes since 2007).
My issue is I cannot create sperate iCloud IDs for each device. I get prompted/directed to create a new Apple ID, which is what I want to avoid. I want to use one "FAMILY" AppleID as it is, and use iCloud IDs for each device.
My logic is: ALL my purchases are tied to an AppleID, and I just want to share on devices that leave the house, like another iPhone.
So- what to do? How to get a seperate iCloud ID without a seperate AppleID? I have an iPhone & iPad, husband has an iTouch & iPhone. How to share selectively? All devices were originally setup using one Cloud ID and one Apple ID. Now I need new IDs to represent the new user on the iTouch & iPhone.

I changed my Apple ID and Password, now I can't get into iCloud.

I changed my Apple ID and Password, so now when I get on my iPhone it asks me for my password to my old Apple ID, which doesn't work. I've gone into settings to change the Apple ID, but it won't let me. I've tried to delete the account, but it asks for my password. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

saschuck1217 wrote:
I called Apple Support. The solution is absolutely ridiculous. You have to go back and change your Apple ID to your old Apple ID and then go back into iCloud and iTunes on your phone and delete or reset the account. Basically, you are supposed to anticipate these issues prior to changing your Apple ID, or else you're locked out of your iCloud and iTunes. I thought Apple was smarter than this. Very disappointed.
Apple provided a procedure, listed in the first article I posted, that instructs you to log out of all Apple ID related services prior to changing your primary email address. Granted, I'd like to see a reminder link listed at appleid.apple.com next to the Primary Email Address edit option, but Apple does provide a correct procedure, plus a way to fix it if you don't follow the procedure.
In fact, the last article I linked to gives you three separate steps to try. If the Apple Support Advisor jumped straight to step three, instead of having you try steps one & two first, then that was not correct on their part.
1. Use your current Apple ID password
Trying using your current Apple ID password. If that doesn't work, continue to the next step.
2. Sign out and back in to iMessage or FaceTime
If you are currently signed in to iMessage or FaceTime
If you are not signed in to iMessage or FaceTime
3. Change your Apple ID temporarily
If signing out and back in to iMessage or FaceTime didn't work, try these steps:
Change your Apple ID to the Apple ID you used previously. You shouldn't need to verify the email address.
Tap Settings > iCloud and try to sign out.
Change your Apple ID to the new email address that you want to use. You'll need to verify the email address.
Tap Settings > iCloud and sign in with the new Apple ID.
Complaining about an issue arising when you don't follow their instructions is like complaining that you lost all of your data because you never backed it up to iTunes or iCloud as they recommend, and you lost data after an iOS update. In fact, the very first step of [iOS: How to update your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch - Support - Apple] states: "Back up your device to iCloud or iTunes." And it even includes a link if you don't know how to do that.
When you use the Apple Support Articles properly, you avoid 99.9% of all potential problems.

Apple's Tip of the week - Two Seconds to Sleep anomaly

Apple states in its tip of the week
"Tip of the Week
Two Seconds to Sleep
Want the fastest way to put your Mac right into a deep, sleepy-bear hibernation-like sleep (no whirling fan, no dialogs, no sound — nuthin’ — just fast, glorious sleep). Just press Command-Option and then hold the Eject button for about 2 seconds and Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz. It doesn’t get much faster than that."
at URL http://www.apple.com/pro/tips/quicksleep.html
I tried this on my 2x 2.5 GHz PowerMac G5 and it gave my computer fits.
First it took 5 seconds to goto sleep and then immediately wakes up again. Not only this but it corrupted my Safari in as much as clicking on any web link would cause a download of the HTML and then after deleting the downloaded file and quitting the Safari download window all the Safari web pages being displayed or active in Dock would terminate and disappear. I had to restart the computer to regain some sanity. It was repeatable as well.
If others experience a similar behavior I'd sure like to see some feedback as this is just too bad of Apple if its widespread.
BTW - I'm running 10.4.7 (since it was released to public) and file system permissions are presitine and all correct just for the record.
Thanks.

I have been using this for a over a year (forget where I found it) and always use it to send my PowerBook to the Land of Nod, rather than just shutting the lid.
When you do it this way, also, it is quite clear that some processes still need to do their thing, particularly a network; and also after using QuickTime (or video in iTunes).

I am a recent Apple convert and feel like I have been ripped off

I purchased a 13inch MacBook since I was getting a little bit tired of having to constantly reboot my PC. Bought a 13 inch MacBook in Nov 2008. Since this was my first Mac and did not have any other accessories/sofware etc from the pc world, I invested in buying all the accessories - duplicate power cords, apple care, more memory etc... all original ones from Apple (read expensive). I did not mind it since I was thinking that I will be using the MacBook for a long time. I recently found that my battery was not holding the charge and so I scheduled an appointment at the Genius bar at a local Apple store. I was told by my die hard Apple fans that enter all the details in and since you have Apple care, they will have a new battery waiting for you. I arrive at the designated time and (the person who was helping me had not even bothered to find out why I was there for - ok, granted he must have been busy). He sticks a usb drive and runs some program which tells him that the battery needs to be replaced. He then continues to tell me that the battery needs to be replaced and that I have an option to buy it at the store. I obviously asked him why I needed to buy when Applecare should have covered it. He rattled off some technical balther and finally it amounted to that the program he was running said that my battery had failed and Apple considers anything over 300 recharge cycles as having 'failed'. How in the world a common user like myself supposed to know this? When I challenged him to show where in Applecare this was stated...he pretended to look on the web and turned to a colleague of his for support and all they ended up doing was point me to the description for battery coverage for batteries under Applecare, which is quite vague. Here is my question - I have taken good care of my Macbook. I have seldom used it solely running on battery. I have always had the Macbook plugged in. Is'nt this unusual for my battery to fail this early and not being covered by Applecare?
I would have gladly purchased, had I known in advance what constituted failure- ie over 300 cycles etc..(though I would have questioned that this could be attributed to some manufacturing defect for it to fail so early). Why does not Apple state it as such as a part of the warranty description? This in my mind is a rip off.
I was planning a trip and did not want to be left without a battery so I was forced to buy one at $129. The gentlemen at the genius bar spoke to his manager and cut a deal for half the price. The whole incident has left a very sour taste for Apple's products and service - not sure if there are other similar surprises lurking in fine print in Applecare land.

bgrad wrote:
duplicate power cords, apple care, more memory etc... all original ones from Apple (read expensive).
In the future, ask about that stuff here first. Mac accessories (such as memory) are often different, but they shouldn't be any more money than the PC versions.
I was told by my die hard Apple fans that enter all the details in and since you have Apple care, they will have a new battery waiting for you.
It is not that automatic, but not far from it either.
I arrive at the designated time and (the person who was helping me had not even bothered to find out why I was there for - ok, granted he must have been busy). He sticks a usb drive and runs some program which tells him that the battery needs to be replaced. He then continues to tell me that the battery needs to be replaced and that I have an option to buy it at the store. I obviously asked him why I needed to buy when Applecare should have covered it. He rattled off some technical balther and finally it amounted to that the program he was running said that my battery had failed and Apple considers anything over 300 recharge cycles as having 'failed'. How in the world a common user like myself supposed to know this?
It sounds like you just had a loser. Complain about them and go to a different store. If you don't have another store handy, talk to the manager.
I would have gladly purchased, had I known in advance what constituted failure- ie over 300 cycles etc..(though I would have questioned that this could be attributed to some manufacturing defect for it to fail so early). Why does not Apple state it as such as a part of the warranty description? This in my mind is a rip off.
I was planning a trip and did not want to be left without a battery so I was forced to buy one at $129. The gentlemen at the genius bar spoke to his manager and cut a deal for half the price.
A spare battery is a good thing to have.
The whole incident has left a very sour taste for Apple's products and service - not sure if there are other similar surprises lurking in fine print in Applecare land.
Just avoid that store in the future. Most places are much better than that.
The real question here, the one that the "genius" didn't ask, is why you have a cycle count > 300. I have a 2006 Macbook, a 2007 Macbook, and one spare battery I bought sometime in 2006. The two batteries I have installed have cycle counts of 245 and 222, respectively. How can your 2008 Macbook have cycle count greater than 300? You should keep an eye on that.

I want Apple to know that an App I purchased is a scam. How can I get this through to them?

I have contacted the iTunes support line but they keep telling me to contact the dveloper of the app.
The problem I reported on the iTunes "Report a Problem" link is that the app developer in question doesn't exist anymore as far as I can tell. If you search for "Lottosuite - Powerball & Mega Miliions" on the app store and then click on the link for the developer web site it attempts to take you to http://www.lottosuiteapp.com/ which Safari says doesn't exist. If you try to click on the Support link it takes you to http://www.broadbentapps.com/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi.
I don't want a refund (it was only 99¢ after all) but I don't want this developer to continue to rake in profits for an app that does not work and has no contact information available to the consumer. Apple states it isn't responsible for the quality of an app but I'm sure they would be upset if they realized they had a scam artist dealing through their App Store. Problem is no one will hear me out. They keep passing the buck and telling me to contact the developer. Duh, that is my problem man.
I have tried calling Apple but will not pay $29 to report a problem they should take care of themselves.
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
This has become my mission and I will not rest until this developer becomes responsible for the apps it provides or is removed and blackballed by Apple.
Frustrated,
Rick
PS Thanks in advance for anyone steppoing forward to help.

If you have a Mac I would recommend that your install Printopia. Here is a link to it:
http://www.ecamm.com/mac/printopia/
With Printopia, any printer that you can connect to your Mac will appear on your iPad as long as they are on the same wi-fi network. Try Printopia to see if that border goes away. Good luck!

Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

Trackpad Failure for no Known Reason - Should Apple be Held Accountable?

About a week and a half ago while using my MacBook Pro, purchased December 31st, 2009, I began experiencing intermittent erratic trackpad behavior. Untouched, the cursor would move across the screen and even opened Garage Band on its own. I was unable to use the trackpad due to this, as the cursor would jump around causing me to select things unintentionally. I attempted restarting, cleaning the trackpad, cleaning my hands, etc. The only way I was able to use the computer was by plugging in a USB mouse and selecting the option of turning the trackpad off when a mouse is present.
I began searching the discussions on here to determine what may be the problem at hand. I hadn't spilled anything or mishandled the laptop in any way, so that was not to blame. I came across discussions of battery swelling disrupting trackpad operation and thought it seemed possible. Not wanting to attempt a diagnosis on my own, I called customer service. The woman I spoke with said it didn't sound like a software issue as the mouse did not behave in the same manner. She did tell me that because my phone support had expired I would have to pay a fee to receive any troubleshooting help. This infuriated me - a company not willing to help a customer troubleshoot via the phone??? Mindy informed me that I could take it to the nearest apple store (over an hour away, might I add) and see if they could be any help. She set up an appointment for me the next day at 3:00.
At the Apple store, I checked in with a man whose role was not entirely apparent to me; he seemed disinterested in the swarm of people in the store and more focused on looking important with his iPad (A sales rep. had to tell me that he was the one I would need to check in with - I don't even think Mr. iPad made direct eye contact with me during this process). After I was paired up with my designated "Genius" I informed him of the problem, and what I suspected it might be. He turned the computer off and back on running his diagnostic tests. Nothing seemed to be out of sorts, so he took it to the back to inspect the innards of my beloved MacBook Pro. He came back a few minutes later, and told me the battery looked fine, and that everything else looked fine as well. He then told me that the trackpad itself must be to blame, and that it would cost me 50 some dollars and an additional 30 something for labor. I asked why the trackpad was malfunctioning, as I had taken good care of my computer. I was informed that sometimes trackpads stop working. Sure, they may stop working, but not on a computer under two years old that shows no signs of mishandling! I told him I shouldn't be expected to pay for this due to this reason. He told me that he couldn't waive the parts fee and that IT WAS A CHEAP REPAIR ANYWAYS. I was appalled and told him that actually, $50 is a lot of money to me - the computer was a gift and I don't take $50 lightly. He backtracked, saying that in comparison to other repairs it was cheap. I asked to speak with his manager, who came out and told me the same thing. They would waive the labor fee and charge me for the part. The labor wound up taking about 15 minutes - definitely not justifying the cost of the "labor". The final paperwork I received stated:
Issue Verified: No
Known Liquid Damage: No
Issue: Trackpad tracking issues
Steps to Reproduce: Checked at the bar
Proposed Resolution: Replace trackpad and waive labor
Cosmetic Condition: Minor scratched and abrasions
Seeing as how a laptop is useless without the mouse, and the fact that I have no car and had to get a ride for the over-an-hour trip, I really had no choice but to have them replace the trackpad. I am, however, FURIOUS that I was made to pay for a new trackpad when I had done nothing to cause the first one to fail. I thought that when you purchased a MacBook PRO that you were purchasing a top of the line product "DESIGNED TO LAST...FOR A LONG, PRODUCTIVE LIFE". No one in their right mind would shell out over a grand for a machine designed to last...less than two years! I have babied this computer and rarely ever take it of the house - solely because I did not want to make a stupid mistake and ruin a very expensive, very important piece of equipment!
I am wondering if Apple is ever held accountable for these sorts of issues? In the case that a piece of hardware malfunctions on an otherwise pristine computer with no known reason, should Apple be obligated to fix the part? As Apple states that their products are "designed to last for a long, productive life", shouldn't they be required to fix problems like this? Isn't that false advertising? I wasn't even given a real reason as to why my trackpad failed! Also, if the trackpad has a manufacturing/design error, Apple should be required to replace this for me - warranty or not. (After over a month of calling about a problem with an iPod out of warranty for over a year, I finally found a rep who recognized the manufacturing error presented and had it repaired, free of charge).
Has anyone else had success in holding Apple accountable for this on a product that is out of warranty? If so, I would love to hear about it - I am going to be writing Apple a formal letter of complaint and would like to know if anyone has had them own up to the problem, along with the case #. Also, does anyone know what could have caused the trackpad to malfunction in the first place?

This is going to be a hard argument and you may not like the answer.
Were you ever offered the AppleCare extended warranty when you purchased your MBP? Like you said above ..its a "Pro" model and it should have good quality parts. Believe it or not the MBP is very well made. However, like all stuff we buy it there is a chance it breaks. Unfortunately you had a failure. There isn't much you can do when you purchased the MBP you were made aware of the one year warranty and were giving the option to extend the warranty through AppleCare. Thats the arguement that Apple is going to make.
If I were you I wouldn't write a angry letter to Apple. If you write a reasonable letter that expresses your concerns over the quality of the Apple product you will be suprised what you may receive rather then writing a angry blast of their company. Basically write the letter step away from it for a couple hours reread and rewrite it.

Apple Statement

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for