Best quality on screen

Hi there,
Could someone please remind me what setting I should use to get the best quality when I preview my edited sequences on my computer.
I find that the text that I included via the video generator is not looking sharp and the video does not look so good either.
Many thanks in advance
Ivan

Ensure source files match the timeline to minimise rendering
Ensure everything is rendered
Set all your RT settings to highest level
Generated text will have a rasterised effect... even after rendering, but will usually play back normally once exported. (this is associated with interlacing, field dominance).
Playback within the viewer of FCP is compressed...so will never look as good as the source media, therefore my advice is not to get too hung up on FCP playback quality as it's not designed to be high fidelity. Export a short segment, and view as you intend to see the final edit... as a DVD, Web etc... then make a judgement on quality.
The Mystic North

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  • Settings for best quality DVD

    Hi,
    I'm hoping someone can help me to get the best quality DVD for home movies.
    I have been editing and putting the movies to DVD for a number of years and the quality has been excellent. but over the last year something has changed and the quality of the final DVD is quite poor (pixalated)
    I have tested different settings in both imovie HD and idvd but it hasn't made any difference so far.
    I am using the following:
    Sony HDR-HC9 handycam (Recording in HDV1080i)
    imovie HD 6.0.3
    iDVD 7.1
    Thanks for any insight you can give me!

    Hi
    As written - dust on lens - first thought
    If You made a lot of DVDs in a row (>3 at a time) then there is a risk to burn out/harm the laser.
    my list on DVD Quality - read or keep. It's long !
    *DVD quality*
    1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
    iDVD 6 has the two last ones
    • Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
    • Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
    • High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
    2.Video from
    • FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
    • iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
    when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
    • iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
    3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
    This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
    4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
    use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
    5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
    6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
    7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
    8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
    iDVD quality also depends on.
    • DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
    deliver anything better that this.
    HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
    These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
    *Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
    _ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
    _ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
    _ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
    The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
    Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
    • HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
    less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
    • How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
    • Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
    • Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
    iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
    • What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
    other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
    Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
    strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
    Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
    • What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
    (If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
    (Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
    (US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
    (EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
    UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
    • What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
    • How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
    Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
    Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
    Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
    1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
    (x4 by some and may be even better)
    2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
    Region codes.
    iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
    DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
    1 = US
    2 = EU
    *unclemano wrote*
    What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
    I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
    I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
    For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
    TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
    • Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
    • No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
    • Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
    • Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
    • Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
    • Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
    pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
    Yours Bengt W

  • Export old VHS to DVD. Best Quality?

    I am fairly new to FCE4. I copied all my home videos from VHS to my computer via Sony DCR-HC30. They became ".dv" files. Now I am finished editing/fixing the first video and I am ready to export it. All I want to do is to be able to make a dvd out of it and watch it on a hdtv. I know it will be very hard to get the old VHS quality videos to HD, but what would be the best setting under "Export" to get the best quality out of them. I tried to do a HD export watching a youtube video and after I did it it said it would take 11hours, thats way too long for me. Any help would be great.
    Also, I have done a few projects on IDVD as far as creating the dvd menu and chapters. Is there a way to do that on FCE or is it better after export to run it through IDVD to get my dvd menus and give it an actual dvd feel when I insert it into a dvd player?

    Hi
    DVD is limited as standard to SD-video (Standard definition) (old CRT-TV quality).
    There are no practical/working HD-DVD versions at all.
    Neither iDVD or Roxio Toast™ will help.
    DVD-Studio Pro got a HD-DVD function - BUT this only play back on some few Toshiba players.
    Only way to get HD - is via Blu-Ray - require Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
    and BD-burner + BD-disks - AND BD-Player
    I've made a list on this.
    *DVD quality*
    1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
    iDVD 6 has the two last ones
    • Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
    • Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
    • High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
    2.Video from
    • FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
    • iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
    when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
    • iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
    3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
    This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
    4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
    use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
    5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
    6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
    7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
    8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
    iDVD quality also depends on.
    • DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
    deliver anything better that this.
    HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
    These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
    *Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
    _ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
    _ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
    _ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
    The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
    Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
    • HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
    less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
    • How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
    • Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
    • Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
    iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
    • What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
    other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
    Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
    strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
    Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
    • What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
    (If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
    (Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
    (US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
    (EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
    UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
    • What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
    • How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
    Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
    Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
    Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
    1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
    (x4 by some and may be even better)
    2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
    Region codes.
    iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
    DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
    1 = US
    2 = EU
    *unclemano wrote*
    What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
    I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
    I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
    For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
    TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
    • Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
    • No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
    • Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
    • Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
    • Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
    • Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
    pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
    Yours Bengt W

  • Import/Export to retain best quality for a Beginner

    Hi,
    I'm hoping someone could help me retain the best quality possible for my video while working on projects because whatever I'm doing now is not working.
    I shoot with a Sony HDR-FX1000 in HDV 1080i/24p and the picture and quality is amazing when plugged into a TV or played back on the camera LCD screen.  I use a new iMac 2.7GHz Intel Core i5, Mac OS X 10.7.4 to edit.  However, when I import into my new FCP X it is not as crisp and quality, and then when I export, it is definitely not the quality I imagined.  The video loses it's sharpness and it gets very noisy plus fuzzy lines appear in some areas of shots.  These lines don't show up when I view my edited footage in the timeline, only after exporting.  I'm fairly new to this all and know I'm not using the best settings to retain the most quality because the beginning and end quality look very different. 
    I don't do heavy duty editing or effects at the moment.  Basic color correction, slow-motion, preset effects, transitions, music and titles.
    ANY help relating to what my settings should be across the board to retain the best image possible is greatly appreciated.  I can't seem to figure it out with trial and error anymore and thought I'd turn to the experts for help.
    Thanks!
    Smalls

    I've set the viewer to both fields.  I guess I don't know why I was transcoding.  I thought it somehow optimized the video.  Could part of the reason the quality drops be because I transcoded the video when I didn't need to?
    When I export, these are the settings I use and then export to QuickTime.
    Here is an example of the noise and lines that show up after exporting the video.
    It's not like this in the viewer while editing EXCEPT when I change playback quality to High Quality.  Any idea why?
    Also, these are my settings when importing the video.  What should be changed other than deselected the Transcoding options?
    I really appreciate the input.  Thanks!

  • New to 16x9 format, how get best quality when using standard dv footage?

    If I am capturing standard NTSC dv footage, and adding standard dimension digital photos, what capture and sequence settings should I use to get best looking 16x9 output? I know I can export as 16x9 and burn a 16x9 DVD in DVDSP, but I was thinking I should capture and edit that way as well to get best quality.
    Thus far, I've been editing everything as 4x3 and assuming the tv's these will be shown on will compensate, which is generally true. I would like, however, to give my clients the option of which output option is best for them.

    So, a client would have to give me 16x9 raw footage for me to produce a true 16x9 DVD?
    Yes.
    I know I can't produce HD DVDs, at least not cost effectively, and most people don't have players anyway.
    Right. None of us can. The movies from the store or Netflix aren't HD. HD has no current relevance in DVD production (other than as acquisition formats).
    I do want their footage to look as good as
    possible on those large screen tvs.
    If you produce a good DVD it will look good. All the other DVDs that are 4:3 are just that - 4:3. Same with 4:3 television. If they were produced well they should look great on any screen.
    1. I'm starting with DV NTSC raw footage, a low-res
    codec.
    OK.
    2. I'm compressing to MPEG-2 to be playable on an
    SD-DVD player, a further low res codec.
    OK. But you really mean "to be playable on a DVD player".
    3. Regardless of what I do, it's going to be
    low-res.
    Regardless of what you do, the resolution is limited by current DVD technology. That is, in the NTSC world, 720x480 whether it's 4:3 or 16:9.
    Does MPEG-2 always look crappy on an HDTV? On a 72dpi SDTV, it looks acceptable. Is there a workaround for HDTV?
    Whether or not it looks crappy is subjective. If Hollywood-produced DVDs and SD television look great on it, then it's possible to make it look great.
    Your real limitations - the ones you have control over, are:
    - quality of camera, glass, and related equipment
    - quality of lighting, audio, camerawork, production in general
    - recording format (DV ain't the greatest).
    - editing format (hint: you don't have to edit in DV)
    - quality of editing / editor
    - quality of MPEG2 encoding
    In your case I think the last one is the most relevant. If you aren't getting acceptable results you may need to learn more about MPEG2 and Compressor.
    BTW 72dpi is a print term, it has absolutely no meaning in video.
    Further question, if I'm doing a photo slideshow, not DV footage, can I leave it uncompressed or will it convert to MPEG-2 and stink regardless?
    To make a DVD movie it needs to be MPEG-2. That's the technology we have. But it doesn't have to stink. The MPEG-2 you use is the same MPEG2 the studios use with movie releases. The technology is the same, the difference is that they have people who really really know how to use it well.
    There is a way to make actual slideshows from JPEGs which play from a DVD or CD. I know little about this, but I suspect that the resolution is still limited to 720x480. Someone will correct me if that's wrong. But you don't have to put them through MPEG2 compression.
    You may benefit from finding out what 16:9 really means. All it means is that the display is wider. That's all. There is no implication of a quality increase, in fact from DVD playback the 16:9 picture will always appear a little softer than SD if viewed on a widescreen device. That's just the way it is.

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