Export images at BEST quality

When you export images form Fash, File/Export/Export image/png (i.e.), the default quality is HIGH (and you can`t change it), but I'd like to export in BEST quality, however there is no control over quality.
the best way at this moment is taking a screen shot from a swf, very awkward and unprofessional metod (worse, you cannot do it with alpha channel)
Any suggestion?
Thanx in advance

You are mislead, a png uses a lossless compression whereas a screenshot of a swf went through jpg-encoding (lossy).
Event the "Best"(100%) JPG Quality is worse(in terms of prevserving the original) than the "high" PNG Quality

Similar Messages

Best image EXPORT settings for best quality

What should i have my export settings at when exporting to a jump drive to give to clients for web and printing use???
When i see my images uploaded on Facebook for example, the qulity looks poor which worries me that when printing the quality will be poor as well. Am i missing something in the setting for exporting? What is the proper way to export for the best quality image? HELP!
My settings now under Aperture>Presets>Image Export:
JPG Original size
300 dpi

t_hall10 wrote:
The information provided was helpful, but did not completely answer my question...
Are there specific settings with-in Aperture I can set for exporting so that clients have the ability to print as wanted and post on the web as wanted whithout losing any major amount of photo quality?
No, not for one size fits all.
I do appreciate this may be a frustrating answer, but non-the-less, that's how it is.
t_hall10 wrote:
Should I be gving 2 folders of pictures, one for web use and one for printing use? If I were to do that, what should the exporting setting be set for both folders?
Maybe, it's your choice.
Let's go through the settings.
The only real quality setting is for JPG compression. 12 is virtually no (lossless) compression but gives huge file sizes which may breach a websites limits.
A 16MP images on quality 12 will be about 22MB. 11 brings it down to 8MB and 10 down to 7MB. You'd be very hard pressed to see the difference between a 12 and a 10. But if you want to feel you are giving the best quality without the extreme file size, go for 11.
The the vast majority of web sites, like facebook, will either resize uploaded images and/or re-compress them. They may also crop them to a different aspect ratio to fit their browser software.
Many report the best size for upload to facebook, for small images is 960 pixels on the long side. For large images it's 2048. For different websites it may be different. It is discussed on many photography sites and blogs. You will find some promoting the 960 / 2048, and others with their own preferences. Here's a good one which also shows you many ways FB will mess with the images:
http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/images-photos-facebook-sizes-dimens ions-types
The safest colour space is sRGB (Mac profile: sRGB IEC61966-2.1) as it will more often be right than wrong. You should preview your images on screen with this profile to get a feel for how it will look and avoid unexpected colour shifts in your files. Ideally your screen should be calibrated so you know what you are giving them is accurate.
To understand the printing issue, try this exercise:
If you have a printer installed on your Mac, it probably also installed some printer profiles. In Aperture, look at one of your nicer vibrant images. From the view menu turn on 'Onscreen Proofing' and then from the 'Proofing Profile' sub menu, select one of your printer profiles and look at how the onscreen image changes. Repeat with each of the printing profiles and see how the image changes each time.
This is only a fraction of the colour shifts that will be occuring after you give your file to someone and they print it on their own uncalibrated system with their uncalibrated printer.
Many photographers don't offer full size images to their clients. They will usually give them smaller versions for their own use, which may include small size printing.
They will either do the main printing themself on their own calibrated printer, or work with a print shop, and may have installed calibrated profiles on their system for the shops printing equipment so they can use onscreen proofing to gauge what the pictures will look like when printed on that equipment.
But if you are just giving a file to someone, you lose all control of how they will print it. Even experienced photographers and computer users can struggle to make the prints match close to what they look like on screen.
Most often photos will appear too dark, or the colours look wrong, or it lacks sharpness. There are some settings on the export presets for gamma and blackpoint compensation. Gamma will brighten the image for when it's printing too dark, and blackpoint will try to stop the shadows turning black (within the chosen colour space). But as you don't know in advance whether the images are going to print too dark, or the shadows are turning black, you can't really set these for a one-size fits all scenario.
So there are not many settings to help you here.
You are actually moving into the realm of defining your product. You could, for example, ask the client which site they intend to publish the photos on, research that site and produce files optimized specifically for that site.
You also need to decide what size (resolution) files to give them for printing and whether you are happy giving away your full size images.
These choices will lead you to a number of a different files sizes as 'your product', all should be in sRGB colour space, and all with quality 10 or 11. For any client's who know how to make use of a wider clour space like Adobe RGB for printing, they will probably ask you up front to supply the print versions as such.
Next, for each size and usage, you now need to sharpen these images.
This is because sharpeing is best applied to images that have been resized to their intended output size and should be sharpened in accordance with how they will be viewed. Images displayed on computer screen generally need less sharpening than those that will be printed. Depening on the printer, the images may need some oversharpening in the file, in order to appear crisp and sharp in the print. As you won't be controlling the printing process you should probably avoid oversharpening. The bottom line is, if people are taking on the task of their own printing, they'll need to figure out what they are doing to get good results, or use a commercial printer.
Andy

Exporting - Option for Best Quality?

Okay. Just upgraded to QT Pro. What "export" option produces the best quality video?
Also, should QT Pro be able to open an WMV file? I've been having to use Flip4Mac, but is water marks everything when I try to do the conversion to *.mov format.
Thanks for any info and insight.

The best quality video will always be lossless or uncompressed. The reality about compression is that it's always a trade off between image quality and data size and as Colin pointed out depends a lot on what you use it for.
While you're working on a piece of video, it's always best to keep it as uncompressed as possible. Compressing footage and then compressing it again leads to a much reduced quality, something like generational loss when recording from tape to tape.
As a good balance between data size and quality in Quicktime, I'd recommend working at the full pixel dimensions and frame rate that you captured and using Apple's MJPEGA codec at full quality.
You might also think about AVI file compressed with DV codec - they won't be as high quality, but will have the advantage of being readable on Macs as well as PCs which don't have Quicktime installed.

Import/Export to retain best quality for a Beginner

Hi,
I'm hoping someone could help me retain the best quality possible for my video while working on projects because whatever I'm doing now is not working.
I shoot with a Sony HDR-FX1000 in HDV 1080i/24p and the picture and quality is amazing when plugged into a TV or played back on the camera LCD screen. I use a new iMac 2.7GHz Intel Core i5, Mac OS X 10.7.4 to edit. However, when I import into my new FCP X it is not as crisp and quality, and then when I export, it is definitely not the quality I imagined. The video loses it's sharpness and it gets very noisy plus fuzzy lines appear in some areas of shots. These lines don't show up when I view my edited footage in the timeline, only after exporting. I'm fairly new to this all and know I'm not using the best settings to retain the most quality because the beginning and end quality look very different.
I don't do heavy duty editing or effects at the moment. Basic color correction, slow-motion, preset effects, transitions, music and titles.
ANY help relating to what my settings should be across the board to retain the best image possible is greatly appreciated. I can't seem to figure it out with trial and error anymore and thought I'd turn to the experts for help.
Thanks!
Smalls

I've set the viewer to both fields. I guess I don't know why I was transcoding. I thought it somehow optimized the video. Could part of the reason the quality drops be because I transcoded the video when I didn't need to?
When I export, these are the settings I use and then export to QuickTime.
Here is an example of the noise and lines that show up after exporting the video.
It's not like this in the viewer while editing EXCEPT when I change playback quality to High Quality. Any idea why?
Also, these are my settings when importing the video. What should be changed other than deselected the Transcoding options?
I really appreciate the input. Thanks!

Imovie HD exporting to retain best quality

Hi, I am using iMovie HD 6 and I have built several projects of montage stills to music... I selected the 1080i format and now want to export to retain the best quality and burn these to dvd's for multiple people.
1. should I have begun the iMovie in DV format and not HD?
2. what is the best way to retain the most quality? I shared one clip to quicktime in "full quality" and that looks ok, but some of the moves have "shudder" to them and it has some loss of quality. This is a bummer since it is so smooth in iMovie!
3. I have multiple projects and want to build them into one dvd. (I did this just to work on the different elements of the school year which is what this project is about. I have beginning of year, halloween, christmas, etc.) An apple tech told me to send them all to quicktime and then import those individual pieces to iDVD for the final work. Any suggestions would be great!

Hi Matt - do you have Final Cut Express HD or Final Cut Pro HD? Because if you do you need to read the following link:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93804

Export settings for best quality for pages with letters etc.

Hi, I am trying to make video of a musical piece, featuring the score of the piece with pages turning following the progression of the music. I made the video in Adobe After Effects CS5 and exported it so it would be lossless. The video itself is a .mov file and looks great when I view it in Quicktime, but when I import it into FCE the quality goes down a bit. I don't know if FCE is handling the clips correctly or if it's just for making it quicker to view. Any suggestions on export settings from FCE for best quality of a video of this nature, so that the notes are clearly readable.
Thanks in advance
Ps. It has to be in a format suitable for Youtube.

Under "Sequence" and in "Settings" and in the tab "Render Control" I have: Frame Rate: 100% Resolution: 100%.
If that is what you were referring to... but under the tab which is called RT and is located left of the timeline and left of the timecode. There I have checked : Safe RT, (Playback Video Quality) Dynamic, (Playback Frame Rate) High.
There might be a way to import the clip in better quality (so it doesn't downgrade the quality).
Was mostly trying to find out with the export but it might have something to do with this.
Thanks

Exporting for the best quality

I am making a highlight tape of my children with some music. What is the best way to export the sequence for DVD with the best quality? DO I export it using the "Quicktime" option and make it a "Self contained movie" or do I uncheck this box? (There is no chapter markers in my film).
Thanks

You should export as QuickTime Movie. Don't use QuickTime Conversion.
Also, if FCE and iDVD are on the same computer, you don't have to make a Self-Contained movie. Uncheck the box and your export will go much faster, with no loss of quality.
In iDVD Preferences, check the box for "Best Quality"

Exporting format for best quality/file size

Hi,
Help!!
Nubie to after effects, pretty much got my head round most of the basics except exporting/rendering my projects.
I can export to Encore and get great results as a dvd...problems i have are as follows.
If I wish to create a presentation for a plama screen running on a laptop what might be the best format to render. For example I have tried .AVI but the file sizes are huge..gigs n gigs worth!!
I have a 720 x 576 project I would currently like to export but do not know how to get the right balance of quality and file size.
Are there any presets anyone knows of?
Thanks!
Regards
Ian

Well, if you are referring to plain desktop playback from a Windows-based laptop, nothing beats WMV. It will play smoothly and if you ramp up the data rates to somewhere between 2 and 3 Mbit/sec, you see almost no adisturbances at this resolution. You will need to work in square pixels, though, or it may look crooked, so nest all your work in a respective comp for final render.
Mylenium

Exporting B-roll, best quality

I need to export some b-roll from Final Cut for a client to use. I don't know how they will use it (they just want to have it for future use) so I want to give it to them at the best possible quality. Do I just export it as a Quicktime Movie and then burn it onto a DVD for them? or is there a better way? I've clicked "Make Movie Self-Containted" but have not clicked "Recompress All Frames". Any advice is most welcome. Thanks.

What format is the video? "b-roll" really doesn't tell us much.
However, exporting a self-contained movie (without recopmpressing all frames) would provide identical quality as what you have in the FCP Timeline.
-DH

Export Settings for best quality, smaller file size?

I have a one hour movie I made of a concert and exported it using Share --> Media Browser --> 720p. It came out great quality but it's 4.4gb's.
I need to figure out how to get that down to about 1GB while keeping 720p. HD movies in iTunes are two plus hours and only 3gb's from what I've seen. How can I use the same compression settings? There has to be a way to compress it a little more, while staying in 720p right?
What am I missing? TIA!

Compression quality really depends on the type of video that you are trying to compress. If the video is full of motion and noise, it will be very hard to reduce the file size through compression without massive loss. Compression is a trade-off. If you reduce the fame size to 480p, you may increase the quality of the video while reducing the file size versus trying to do the same thing at 720p.

How to export blue-ray (best quality) from premiere!!!

I want to know about exporting blue-ray from premiere!!!!!!
I hv exported a blue-ray clip from AE and imported it to premiere to add the sound track every thing seemed alright till (File>Export>Media> ....) i got my final clip with no sound ( though I HEARD IT WHILE EDITING ). why???
P.S: am new to premiere so I need ur suggestions. Thanks again.

Oh hello facebook page's admin
look, I said am new to adobe ( i watched some guiding tuts ) to help me recognaize this new software
but am not new to video editing i used to work on final cut pro and I've taken final cut courses ( basics and advanced ) .
and just because I dont have apple I had to switch to adobe but it surprised me (talking about the AE) liked it really and happy to get to know more and more. that's it
Now I still didnt get how could i bring out a blu-ray output with sound active!

Best quality animated gif export

Hi
I was doing just fine exporting animated gifs (in terms of quality output) and all of a sudden on an update to my fireworks png my exports (no matter what options I change) are just not as good quality as before.
Essentially, I am trying to get as close to the JPEG 100% quality (best quality) I can get - drop shadows on items just don't like that great at moment.
Could someone please advise what is absolute optimum setting for best quality output for an animated gif - I am not concerned about file size.
many thanks
Jeff

Without seeing the image/animation, I can't make specific comments.
However. Keep in mind that the GIF format has an indexed palette of 256 colors, total, one of which can be transparent. If you have a still image of 256 shades of red, and a still image of 256 shades of blue, they'll look fine as GIFs. If you try to combine them as an animated GIF, then the palette will need to be 128 shades each of red and blue, so neither of the images as frames in the animation will look as good as they do as stills.
Also, Fireworks doesn't always give you the maximum amount of colors. If you have an image with 1000 colors, and you export to GIF, you probably won't get 256 colors in your palette. Go to File>Image Preview and see what your palette is. If necessary, add colors from your image where you notice banding (with dithering off).
Finally, the two image formats are not equally appropriate for all image content. GIF is good for line art of solid colors. It isn't good for photos or gradients. If you can forgo your drop shadows you'll probably get better quality in the essential parts of the images. JPEGs are good for photos and gradients (although I prefer PNGs for gradients, myself), and are not good for line art. Unfortunately, if you want an animation, you need a GIF or Flash.

How to export best quality gif animations in flash

how to export best quality gif animations in flash

GIF is a color restricted format with on/off support for transparency. There's really no settings you can tweak to output a better GIF. You have a drop-down during GIF sequence export to allow transparency, select the amount of colors (up to 256) and you can choose dither to save a little filespace. The only 2 things in there that really matter are dither and amount of colors used to export.
If your content is very similar (e.g. not a lot of complex gradients/shadows/etc) and is limited in color use turning down the amount of colors used and dithering is your only option.
Make sure you're exporting the GIF via "Publish Settings" so you get a single animated GIF and not file->export->movie because this creates a separate sequence of GIF images for each frame.

How to export a short film made with still images without loosing quality?

Hi,
I have been trying everything to make a short film, which is made with still images, to look decent once exported however it is a real challenge. Here are the steps I have undertaken:
1- I prepare the photographs and give them the aspect ration of 720p and whatever height as I try not to crop them too much at 300dpi. They look great in photoshop or capture one. I then save them as.tiff. All the images are RGB.
2- I start a new project in premiere pro cs4 and make it DV Pal 25fps.
3-I import the images and place them on the timeline. If they are a bit too big I rescale them. The images seem to look ok on the timeline although I seem to have lost the deepness of the colours.
4-I render the work area
5-I export it as quicktime, dv pal, quality 100.
My dilemna is that although exporting with quicktime, dv pal, quality 100 seems to give me the best quality compared to using quicktime animation, mpeg2, cinemak, avi..., the images are still not as sharp as in Photoshop and the colours look a lot paler and washed out. Also, when looking close to the screens you can see tiny squares on the images although from distance it's not too bad. When I view it from the exported file using Nero it's not too bad although definitely not perfect, as soon as I try to make a DVD and import it in Adobe Encore CS4 or send it by Dynamic Link, the quality looks horrible with images that look soft if not blurred and completely washed out.
I have now tried about t bu15 versions to see what 's the best I still have not reached the optimum quality and since these will be shown on big tvs or projected onto screens I need to nail it.
Would anybody have any advice please please please?
Many Thanks

My overall advice is to do that kind of work in an application that is designed for that. Give Photodex Proshow Producer trial a crack at it. I do a lot of work with stills, and that IMO PSP is the best approach. If you are intermixing the odd still, Pr may get you by. If you plan on doing a lot of that, try proshow, where the workflow and extensive features are designed for making high quality videos from stills that can be output to a wide number of formats and destinations, including color management with many of them( including avi). And, no need to resize. I know this won't solve your present problem.
Obviously, your attempt in Pr has not worked out as you had hoped. Maybe a bit more info would help. How are you rescaling them in Pr? That might well account for some quality loss. What is the original format and size of the images? What color management are you using in PS? Are you using any color correction or effects in Pr? Is your project interlaced or progressive?
From your description, you are not even getting the quality you should be getting from Pr IMO, though as Jim says, it is video and it will never look as pristine as it does in PS, but it still seems to me that something you are doing has degraded the work more than normally would be expected.

If exporting images for backup, to reimport into a clean aperture or other program, is it best to use 72 dpi or 300 dpi, or does it matter?

If exporting images for backup, to reimport into a clean aperture or other program, is it better to use 72 dpi or 300 dpi, or does it matter? I want the best quality for any future unforeseen use.

I am somewhat reluctant to answer your questions after Frank Caggiano's excellent advice, but I really do not like to leave the question open, for there will be many occasions when you will need to export images and to understand how it works.
But please, follow Frank's advice, right now you do not need to worry about pixels and dpi. That is exactly what I meant, when I suggested to you to make sure you keep a copy of your Aperture Library and to back it up with all your other data, before you erase your disk for a clean reinstall.
DPI revisited:
So, is the dpi setting only for exporting to print?
The dpi settings are necessary to define the size of a digital image, since pixels don't have any dimensions. And since you cannot print or display an image without knowing its width and height, you will need to specify dpi when you are printing or scanning.
If I leave it at the default 72dpi will there be any problems getting quality prints in the future from jpeg versions exported with that setting?
Not if you export with the original size - the maximum number of pixels available. That will ensure the maximum print quality.
The dpi settings are required to export versions; versions are derived from the masters and new image files are computed. When you export masters you get a copy of the original file that already may have a dpi setting.
If I choose "export masters", will aperture will export my masters just as they are?
yes, and you may add IPICT data if you choose
Pardon my thick skull--I'm an old dog trying to learn new tricks in this digital world!
No apologies necessary, we were all beginners once
Here is another example, maybe that helps a little:
I exported an image (jpeg) with three different setting: export masters, a version with 72dpi, a version with 300dpi and inspected the files in Graphic Converter:
The master was exported like this:
Notice, the master had already dpi settings, although I did not specify any on export.
The size is 51,48 cm x 38,61 cm.
The 72 dpi Version has larger dimensions, but also 10 Megapixels.
and here the 300 dpi version: smaller dimensions, same amount of pixels.

Export images at BEST quality

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