Bluetooth connectivity problem: sees the mouse but reports it's not detected at the same time

All of sudden my mouse lost connection to my Mac. When clicking bluetooth icon in menu bar it's highlighted in bold and marked as "connected", but when I open Mouse Preferences all I see is that it tries to scan its presence and in fact is stuck at this stage. The charge is enough. More so, I wasn't able even to both disconnect the mouse and turn off Bluetooth. Console logs were the following:
20.03.15 10:50:48,000 kernel: AppleUSBBluetoothHCIController::SendHCIRequest on suspended device! Data begins with: 0x01040533
20.03.15 10:50:48,000 kernel: SendHCIRequest failed, error (0xE00002D8) -- kIOReturnNotReady[SendHCIRequestFormatted] ### ERROR: EnqueueRequestForController failed (err=0xe00002d8 (kIOReturnNotReady)) for opCode 0x0401 (HCI Inquiry)
20.03.15 10:50:48,000 kernel: [SendHCIRequestFormatted] ### ERROR: [0x0401] (HCI Inquiry) -- Send request failed (err = 0xE00002D8 (kIOReturnNotReady))
I took bluetooth plist from my User Library and moved it to Desktop then restarted. After that the system created the new plist and the problem disappeared.
You may ask why I'm starting the thread? Well, partially because I got frustrated not expecting such Windows-like behavior but mainly because I'd like to bring an order to my knowledge for understanding certain OS X shortcomings. Could you please look into these plists - the older and the new one - and tell me where is the crucial difference between them that led to connection failure?
Old bluetooth plist:
The new plist:
I.S.

Since the version of OS X I use is soon to be left without Apple's support and Apple does NOT supplies Lion users with system updates my feedback is going nowhere. I know this is user-to-user forum, I just was hoping for some clarification, but if you don't know the answer, so be it. Ok then, thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

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Can I have 2 Bluetooth connection active at the same time? Works with other phones...

Is it possible to have one Bluetooth connection for "phone audio" and a 2nd connection for "A2DP" music streaming at the same time on my iPhone 5? My car-stereo has Bluetooth for phone calls but NOT for audio streaming. However, there's a 3.5mm aux in on the head unit. On my S5 I can create one Bluetooth connection to the car-stereo and select "phone audio" and a 2nd for my Bluetooth aux-in adapter. It works perfect since months but last week I changed back to an iPhone (5s) and it appears that I can only have ONE BT connection active at a time!? Any ideas anyone?

Hi SwedelostinAmerica,
Welcome to the Apple Support Communities!
The iPhone can maintain multiple pairing records, but it can only connect to one headset or hands-free device at a time. However, in your situation there may be a solution. You can connect the iPhone via Bluetooth for calls and use the 3.5mm jack on your iPhone and car radio to connect for music.
The following article explains Bluetooth pairing and usage. Please use it as a reference.
iOS: Third-party Bluetooth accessories
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1664
Have a great day,
Joe

Not able to make outgoing calls in iphone4. Regularly i face this problem, at the same time i receive incoming call, can do net surfing, can access email and sms, only outgoing calls get failed every time. please answer to solve this problem

not able to make outgoing calls in iphone4. Regularly i face this problem, at the same time i receive incoming call, can do net surfing, can access email and sms, only outgoing calls get failed every time. please answer to solve this problem

Good day Sidharth Namrta,
It sounds like you are unable to make any calls, but you can recieve them, and everything else seems to work fine. I recommend you use the troubleshooting in the following article to help you get that resolved, named:
iPhone: Troubleshooting issues making or receiving calls
Follow the steps below to resolve this issue. Please test after each step.
Toggle airplane mode: Tap Settings > Enable Airplane Mode, wait five seconds, then turn off airplane mode.
Check your phone settings:
Check your Do Not Disturb settings: Tap Settings > Do Not Disturb.
Check for any blocked phone numbers: Tap Settings > Phone > Blocked.
See if Call Forwarding is turned on: Tap Settings > Phone > Call Forwarding.
Ensure that your software is up to date:
Check for a carrier settings update.
Check for an iOS software update.
Note: Some updates may require a Wi-Fi connection.
If the iPhone has a SIM card, reseat the SIM card.
If the iPhone 4 or iPhone 4s is on the Verizon network, dial *228 from the iPhone and select option 2 to update the Preferred Roaming List (PRL). The PRL determines the cellular towers the phone uses for cellular service, selecting those with the best signal strength.
Reset the network settings: Tap Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings.
Try to make or receive calls in another location.
Attempt to isolate to one network band:
If you're having the issue on LTE, disable LTE, if possible, and try again.
If you're having the issue on 3G/4G, disable 3G/4G, if possible, and try again.
Contact the carrier to check the following:
Your account is properly configured to use the specific iPhone that has the issue.
There are no localized service outages.
Your account doesn't have a billing-related block.
Your calls don't have errors on the carrier system.
Restore the phone as new.
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HT4111 can headset and bluetooth speaker work at the same time?

On my iPad, can the headset option and a bluetooth speaker work at the same time? I am using the headset to listen to music, but I want my spouse to be able to hear the same music using a wireless bluetooth speaker in the other room.

Sorry, of course I tried it and it did not work!
To clarify, can it be MADE to work? The basic hook up does not seem to allow for both. I was hoping an intellengent, helpful person might be able to assist a novice.

Can you have more than 3 Bluetooth devices active at the same time?

I have trouble getting my Sony DR-BT101 to link when my mouse, trackpad, and keyboard (all wireless) are connected. I need to link by stereo headphones for music analysis and cannot get all to work at the same time. My Sony headset either won't pair or connect or causes alert that interfere with the running of other programs during my work. Even when I answer one of the alerts and turn off the Mouse it refuses to connect and finishes with a Stop Using Headset message. Even if I choose "Ignore" instead of turning off the Mouse or Trackpad, same thing. I once had everything working at the same time, so I can't figure out what is going on but it won't honor more than 3 devices, it seems. And also, when a new email arrives in my mailbox (iMac OS Lion 7.1 Mail), the alerts stop popping up and go through 3 iterations as each new email arrives. Weird. Any response on how to deal with this?

@kalos
Uninstalled everything PA, also uninstalled mangler which was the only thing that depended on PA. It didn't work anyway.
No pulseaudio --kill command so I couldn't run.
Checked systemd journal and there is no mention of PA this time.
Checked top, and grepped ps aux and there is no PA there either.
I also rebooted the machine completely just to make sure. However VLC and HTML5 have the same incompatibilities.
_ vlc Videos/anime/fmab/01.mp4
VLC media player 2.1.5 Rincewind (revision 2.1.4-49-gdab6cb5)
[0x1bc30f8] pulse audio output error: PulseAudio server connection failure: Connection refused
[0x1af4118] main libvlc: Running vlc with the default interface. Use 'cvlc' to use vlc without interface.
Fontconfig warning: FcPattern object size does not accept value "0"
Fontconfig warning: FcPattern object size does not accept value "0"
Fontconfig warning: FcPattern object size does not accept value "0"
Fontconfig warning: FcPattern object size does not accept value "0"
[0x7fb604001248] main vout display error: Failed to resize display
But the video and audio did work until I ran some HTML5 video, after which the audio worked, and then I opened it again and it didn't work...
@nomorewindows
I see. That's too bad. At least we're not alone.
Last edited by Greduan (2014-11-14 01:34:29)

Multiple ResultSets from the same connection occuring at the same time

Is it possible to have the following code? The issue is that you are iterating through two result sets created from the same connection at the same time.
try {
Connection conn=createConnection();
Statement s=conn.createStatement();
ResultSet rs=s.executeQuery(someSQL);
while (rs.next()) {
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} catch (SQLException sqle) {
} finally {
freeConnection(conn);

Joel,
The code compiles, but I have not tried running it. It is a question I need to know, designing a program.
The question is whether some error would come up or the first ResultSet would be corrupted because a second were created before the first one was closed.
--Gabe

Can i use a bluetooth headphone and a bluetooth cycle computer at the same time on a 4s?

I was wanting to get the wahoo bluetooth enabled cycle computer and heart rate monitor and use it at the same time as I use bluebird bluebuds bluetooth head phones. Does this many divices work at the same time?

No, you can connect only one bluetooth device at a time.

BMW bluetooth connection problems with the iphone 4s

My 2010 BMW 528 and iphone 4s are not working properly together. About half my outgoing calls from the car leave the recipient unable to hear my voice. Consequently they hang up. If I call them back a second time they usually hear me just fine. The pairing generally seems solid. I receive calls normally and both parties hear each other on all incoming calls. It's just the outbound calls that dont work reliably. Apple is trouble shooting (e.g., a iOS5 reinstall is pending) but I'm not sure (nor are they) that this will fix it. Some thought that there may be a basic imcompatibility between the two devices. Many report that the 3g and 4 models pair and work fine with BMW's. Any thoughts/suggestions?

I have the same problem in 2010 BMW 528i and iPhone 4S. I reduced how often this happens by turning off syncing of contact on the iphone. But it still happens daily. The audio is not diverted from the phone to the car.
Really, really hoping that this gets fixed with iOS 5 update soon.

Multiple-point Hardware And Software Failures in Two, Separate and Not-connected Computers At The Same Time...

A few days ago, I was working on a restoration of a 100-years-or-so-old Calculus book on one of my Linux based computers, while my other computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system was serving as Broadcast TV receiver with its USB HDTV tuner
in the afternoon. The weather in Los Angeles was summer-like in November, with clear skies and 90 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. All of a sudden, my Linux based computer halted in the middle of the processing it had performed hundreds of times
before in hotter days. It would not restart. The entire boot block of the disk seemed to have been garbled. This did not seem even feasible at all, so I decided to shut its power off for a while. It came back up after a while,
and everything looked normal. Then, it did the same thing again. I decided to open its cover and check on its multiple fans as there was nothing else that could go wrong.
I then noticed that the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista Operating system which had been receiving the broadcast TV, was displaying a freshly-booted log-in screen. It had "Blue-screened" while I was working on the other computer
across the large room. This again did not seem any feasible as there had been utterly no connection between these two computers. Even the AC power line circuit was different. Furthermore, this computer had the most extensive air-cooling system
I had built to have it work through 107 degree Fahrenheit temperatures indoors. Anyway, I logged back in and started the broadcast TV reception again. Sure enough, after a while it "blue-screened" one more time...
I went back to the Linux-based computer and found all of its fans operating, but with somewhat hotter disk drives. The problem was that in hotter days, the same computer had cooler disk drives with nothing different. I concluded that somehow
the 80 mm fan mounted in the front side of the case, with its side with rotating blades clamped on the perforated part of the steel case serving as the fan grill, was starting up fine. But, as the time passed the spring-loaded rotating hub was slowly
drawn toward the perforated steel case by two means: The partial vacuum formed by the suction generated by the blades of the fan, and by the magnetic attraction of the rotating hub with electro-magnets in it to the partially magnetized, perforated steel casing.
The first effect was always there, so it was not the real cause, but once something else came along, it really helped the latter. The hub was slowly drawn to the perforated steel casing due to magnetic attraction, with the holes in the casing
inducing a huge air-drag on the hub blades as there was no by-pass around to supply the extra-air needed to reduce the partial vacuum. In addition, the rotating hub with the electro-magnets now was very close to the conducting metal surface and the induced
eddy-currents in the metal by the moving electro-magnets had added even more drag on the rotating hub, causing it to come nearly to a halt. The disk drive electronics was heating up and was causing DMA access faults which in turn caused the Linux kernel
to panic and halt.
Well, this was nearly unbelievable, but true... I had not brought any magnets into the room and I still do not know how the computer case got magnetized. It has been working at the same location for years. The solution was to move the fan
away from the perforated steel casing a little so that some air could come in through the gaps on the sides of the fan (hence supplying a by-pass), reducing the partial vacuum in front of the fan. This kept the rotating hub far enough away to prevent
the massive induced eddy-current drag from slowing the fan down to a halt. The computer now works perfectly with the very same fan as it has had been doing for years.
The real solution is to saw the perforated part of the steel casing in front of the fan away, and to replace it with a better fan grill. The best fan grill material I have found is the finely perforated, thin, black aluminum sheet that is usually
used as a car audio speaker grill. In fact, I use these in my Microsoft Windows Vista based computer. The fans are quieter, with more air flow. It also keeps dust away and you can brush the collected dust off easily.
The next problem was the halting of the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system with a blue-screen. The fans in it could not be the cause of this, as it had already had the best improvements I could put in it, with even
externally powered fans that did not load the computer power supply. And, all of the fans were working well. In the meantime, the Microsoft November 2014 updates for the Microsoft Windows Vista came out, and as usual I told the computer to
load and to implement them. Sure enough, the computer again "blue-screened" in the middle of the update procedure.
That was somewhat too much, but there was nothing else I could do other than to debug it. I had not changed anything in the computer and its power supply, completely internally updated by myself a few years ago, was working perfectly. Whatever
was causing it was not in the hardware. It was not in the November 2014 software updates either as it "blue-screened" before those were announced. I brought the computer back up after several disk and other software checks and after the
completion of the updates, I gingerly turned the network modem on. I then sent the reports on the six failures (three "blue-screen" type failures and three "Anti-malware Executable" failures) to Microsoft with all of details
requested using the Microsoft Windows Vista problem reporting system. Within minutes, the Microsoft came up with a diagnosis that the USB driver code in the system had a serious bug. I had not changed this code in years. It suggested that
I should use the "Microsoft Fix-It" for this problem and it pointed to a link to download it. I did download it. It ran and the "blue-screen" problem just went away, as if it had never been there...
-- Yekta

I ordered the capacitors on Friday and they arrived on Monday, November 17, 2014. I removed the motherboard from the machine, by removing all PCI and AGP boards, drive and fan connectors and the computer power supply first. The motherboard then
simply unbolted from the case and came out with the CPU fan assembly still attached.
I wrapped the solder side of the motherboard with aluminum foil and set up a work place with the aluminum foil under the motherboard and myself electrically well grounded. Here came another surprise: There were four more capacitors of the same
kind just behind the CPU fan assembly and their tops were also deformed with one of them leaking the electrolyte inside from the the top. Luckily, I had ordered more than two capacitors to get the quantity discount and the lower rate of shipping.
I do use them in other circuits I occasionally build.
Technically, the only thing one needed to do was to unsolder the six old capacitors from the motherboard and to solder six new ones in in their place with the correct polarities. However, due to fact that the capacitors span the 3.3 V power plane and
the ground plane in the multi-layer motherboard, it is nearly impossible to unsolder these capacitors using regular, fine-tip soldering irons. The thick copper of the power and the ground planes carry the soldering iron heat away very fast, preventing
the solder from melting quickly. Continuous application of heat at this point will simply burn the internal insulating epoxy layers and cause shorts inside the motherboard which are impossible to fix in any reasonable amount of time.
The only reasonable way to remove these capacitors was to dismantle the capacitors from the top leaving their already soldered leads in place. The new capacitors were then tack soldered to these stubs using lead-free, hard solder. However, the
CPU fan assembly and the CPU itself had to be removed from the board to be able to work on these capacitors.
To dismantle the capacitors from the top, I first drilled small holes at the tops of the capacitors at the intersections of the indentations using the tip of a hobbyist's knife. I then used needle nosed pliers to peel back the triangular sections
of aluminum from the center at the tops to their bases at the top edges of the capacitors. Next, I removed the plastic layers covering the outside of the capacitors by scoring the plastic layers first from the bottom to the top using the tip of
the hobbyist's knife and peeling the plastic layers off starting at the cut. The following step was to cut the aluminum cans of the capacitors from the top to the bottom using the hobbyist's knife like a can opener. One could not use a saw like
tool here to accomplish the feat as the saws generated very fine metal chips which were very hard to remove and were certain to cause shorts in the densely populated mother board. The cans were then peeled off the rest of the capacitors starting from
the top at the cuts using needle nose pliers, revealing the spiral-wound metal-paper layers of the capacitors.
The wound layers of the capacitors were peeled off layer by layer by cutting into the layers from the top to the bottom, leaving only the two aluminum electrodes which were crimped and soldered to the leads of the capacitors. The picture below shows
the six capacitors with one of them dismantled (left) and with all of them dismantled (right):
The black disks below the aluminum electrodes are the rubber plugs covering the bottoms of the capacitors. The rubber plugs were then cut in half using the hobbyist's knife and removed using the needle nose pliers. It was not possible to
solder to the aluminum electrodes, so these were trimmed at the point they were crimped on the leads of the capacitors, leaving only the stubs of the capacitors' leads soldered to the motherboard.
The new capacitors with suitably trimmed leads were then soldered to these stubs with the correct polarities using lead-free, hard solder. The capacitors were lightly bonded together using a flexible glue to prevent them from moving. The picture
below shows the new capacitors as installed into the motherboard:
I then assembled everything back together and turned the computer on. The BIOS complained on the boot screen that the CPU was out of its socket and it needed to be reset. I set BIOS parameters correctly to their original values. The computer
came up and worked without any problems. I typed this message on my newly repaired computer running the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system.
By the way, the manufacturing date on the motherboard is 09/12/2002 and the CPU is a Socket-478, 2.4 GHz, Intel Pentium-4.
-- Yekta

Can I use a bluetooth headset and a bluetooth isimple remote at the same time?

I use a wireless headphone when I ride my motorcycle and its great, but I would like to hook up a remote that would allow me to skip tracks, pause, and adjust volume.
I found this:
http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Portable-Wireless-Smartphones-Bluetooth/dp/B00KPZN 5UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428870380&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+remote
I need to know if I can use it and my wireless headphones at same time before I buy it though since they both use bluetooth

There is no wired controller I know of. Your wired headphones should have a controller on them.
You can connect more than one BT device to an iPhone you just cannot use more than one A2DP stereo Bluetooth device or Handsfree Headset. Check with the iSimple people and see which BT profile they are using for their remote. If it is low power bluetooth then you can use it with your headset.

Howto send outsream to more than one connected socket at the same time?

Hi,
I have a Serversocket socket class which is waiting for connections at a static port. The following code creates the ServerSocket:
ServerSocket servsock = new ServerSocket(port);
Then Im wating for clients to access to the server. I do it in a while loop like this:
while(true){
client = servsock.accept();
System.out.println("New client connected");
After that a put the connected client to e "Temp" variable:
Socket temp = client;
Then I Start a new Thread for that client and put it in a Vector:
Thread v = new Thread (new Visitor(temp,this);
visitor.add(v);
v.start();
} //end of while loop
The class Visitor implements Runnable and have the constructor:
public Visitor(Socket sss, MyServer server){
s= sss;
In the run method I create the output and input streams like this:
OutputStream outStream           = s.getOutputStream();
PrintWriter out               = new PrintWriter(outStream,true);
InputStream instream           = s.getInputStream();
BufferedReader appletIn      = new BufferedReader(new InputStreamReader(instream));
After that Im Starting to Listen in a While loop:
String line = appletIn.readLine();
Now to my question: I want to send this "line" to all connected sockets using my vector visitors in my Server class.
Can I have a method call in my Visitor class that call a method in my Server class? And how can I Iterate over all the elements in the Visitor and in each loop send a outStream to that connected socket?
Thanx for all help I can Get!
Best Regards Greeger!

To send data from the from input stream to the output stream of multiple other sockets, you need to read data from the input stream, then send the same data to each of the output streams.

How I fixed my short battery life on iPhone 5, and ActiveSync problems at the same time.

For anyone still having activesync or battery problems I have a potential fix:
I've had two issues lately.
First, my battery life was draining at an insane rate. iPhone5 lasted about 3-4 hours before absolutely dead from a full charge. LTE disabled, WiFi disabled, icloud turned off...about as power efficient as I could make it, and I was hardly using it at all. I was losing 1% batt every 2-4 minutes.
I solved this problem by removing my work account (Exchange Activesync) from my mail accounts. Obviously I couldn't stay like that for very long, so after confirming it stemmed the battery issue, I tried to add it back. Did a bunch of different methods and tests, and what ended up working for me was:
Remove ALL accounts (Had Exchange, gmail, icloud)
hard reset the phone.
After it came back up, I reset the Network Settings just for good measure.
In Mail control panel, make sure "Default Account" doesn't have an old mail account listed (option may be not even present if you've removed all accounts, but I was having issues earlier where even though I'd removed accounts, it kept listing them in the Default Account/Calendar sections
Add the Account
Open Mail
It actually took a min or two to start populating data, I didn't think it had worked, so give it a few minutes.
My battery life issue seems to be fixed, and my ActiveSync account works again. I've been off the charge for about 4h 40m now, and battery is at 90%, and that's with moderate usage on LTE.
Hopefully this helps out anyone having similar issues. For what it's worth, I removed/readded my Exchange account several times and it never worked until I had removed all accounts (my iCloud account was the last one to be removed), so if possible, just remove everything. I had already restored, DFU'd, and tried several other steps. This was what worked for me.
I have NOT added my iCloud account back yet, but will be doing this now to see if any issues reappear.

I am experiencng rapid battery drain as well. Before checking the forums I have closed apps running in background, turned off LTE, turned off location services, turned off wi-if & turned off Bluetooth...my battery drained to 53% in 3 1/2 hours.
This is my 1st personal iDevice so I do not understand some of the verbiage.
What is "disabled safari on icloud"?
I go to Setting - iCloud & I am not signed in
I don't see anything in Safari Settings about iCloud
Thank you in advance for your assistance
Jennifer

Bluetooth keyboard K810 and mouse T630 at the same time, repeating keys and mouse starts to stutter

I use a Lenovo Thinkpad Tablet 2, Windows 8.1(core edition), x86 (32bit).
If I pair a Bluetooth keyboard K810 and mouse T630 at the same time, with Wifi On, the keyboard starts repeating the keys and the mouse starts to stutter. Especially if WiFi is under load (when downloading something).
This doesn’t happens if I pair only the keyboard, or if I pair mouse and keyboard with Wifi OFF.
If I pair a Bluetooth keyboard and use a USB mouse with Wifi ON, everything works fine.
If I pair a Bluetooth mouse and use a USB keyboard with Wifi ON, everything works fine.
I think it is an issue with two Bluetooth devices paired at the same time with Wifi ON.
So here is a summary:
BT mouse and BT keyboard / Wifi ON ----> repeating chars and the mouse starts to stutter (bug)
BT mouse and BT keyboard / Wifi OFF ----> works fine
Only BT keyboard / Wifi ON ----> works fine
Only BT mouse / Wifi ON ----> works fine
USB mouse and BT keyboard / Wifi ON ----> works fine
USB keyboard and BT mouse / Wifi ON ----> works fine
Where is the problem? Is there any solution?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I have solved the problem. In the Wlan-Drives-Settings there is the "Bluetooth Collaboration" option. I put the value to "Disable" and now works everything like charm.
Best regards, jC
Broadcom manual:
Bluetooth Collaboration
Bluetooth Collaboration enables general purpose input/output transmit suppression protocol between the IEEE 802.11 media access control (MAC) and an external Bluetooth chip to minimize transmit interference. Bluetooth Collaboration is enabled by default.

Perfect Keyboard Question!! Using 2 Bluetooth Keyboard in ios5 at the same time

Hello People,
As a Retailer, I love CRM (customer relationship Management) Systems, and I've a software team that programs HTML5 based crm solutions for us.. Why HTML5, because of ipad 2 of course...
ok Technical question! ready?
Can ipad use 3 bluetooth HID keyboards at the same time? you'll ask why?
Problem is
We're planning to use Motorola Symbol CS3070 Barcode Scanner http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzIbRJiQD24
And at the same time Apple wireless keyboard for desktop http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PBswYZ2JBs
So the problem is ipad 2 reconises CS3070 as HID keyboard! Wualla
Can it be done? P.S : There is no escape key on CS3070
If this can not be done, i'll be forced to use all-in one pc 's which are heavy and not mobile...
And also this will be a problem when i am mobile with the barcode reader and ipad since again there will be no on-screen keyboard.
Thanks
Now thats ipad crazy idea

By the way Correction!!! CS3070 has an disconnect button so it works as it is with the on screen keyboard. connection time is perfect 2 seconds, but disconnection time is 20 seconds on my ipad 1, so do you think ipad2 or future ipad 3 will be faster to disconnect thank you

ServerSocket problems accepting 2 client at the same time

hi all,
i wrote a simple client-server pair, to synchronize databases, and works fine.
but i found a problem: all ok when 2 clients try to connect to the server whit a little gap (ie 1 second), the problem is when they try to connect EXACTLY at the same time
while (true)
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synchronized void enter()
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    }when a request is accepted, an instance of the class s_newport (a thread) starts to open another socket.
the problem is when 2 requests arrive in the same moment, and the server doesn't accept anything.
i declared the enter() method synchronized, but this doesn't seem to work!
anyone could help me please?
thanks
sandro

excuse me, i didn't understand...
thanks for your reply
sandro

Bluetooth connectivity problem: sees the mouse but reports it's not detected at the same time

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