Bootcamp XP Hard drive motion sensor?

Does the hard drive motion sensor still work when on the XP side via Bootcamp?
Thanks in advance.

I am looking for a similar answer I think. If I purchase a MacBook Pro and want to run Boot Camp in XP on an external monitor will the auto wake up feature work in XP? Does it even have that? I don't necessarily want to open up the computer and log in to it and then close the lid every morning to use XP on the Mac with an external monitor although if it works may be the only thing I can do. If anyone has any answers I would appreciate it. Sorry in advance if this is not the right post to pose the question.

Similar Messages

  • I need help finding a replacement hard drive/IR sensor cable for my laptop.

    I have a 17" Macbook Pro from September 2009, and the hard drive cable has ripped at the junction where the hard drive cable and the IR sensor cable meet.
    My brother needed to use my comp to try to transfer stuff from the hard drive from his broken laptop to an external hard drive, and the cable ripped the second time he was fiddling with it.
    Here are some pics:
    http://i48.tinypic.com/2qmgjgx.jpg
    http://i48.tinypic.com/2i1gq5v.jpg
    http://i49.tinypic.com/wqx838.jpg
    http://i48.tinypic.com/f03xbb.jpg
    http://i48.tinypic.com/23r0j5t.jpg
    http://i47.tinypic.com/f4r6gh.jpg
    When searching for "macbook pro unibody 2009 17" hard drive/ir sensor cable" it doesn't come up with any for the 17" but it comes up with a bunch for 13" and 15" and it seems like the 15" ones would work for my computer.
    (Like the one in the picture on this page: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+2.53+GHz+Mid+ 2009+Hard+Drive-IR+Sensor+Cable/1520/1)
    I'm having no success finding a cable that looks just like the one in my comp that's specifically for the 17" that goes to the hard drive AND the IR sensor. For example, all I've been able to find so far are things like this:
    http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Pro-17-Inch-Unibody-Hard-Drive-Cable /IF162-015
    which does not appear to be the cable I need, as it doesn't seem as though I could attach the IR sensor cable to it.
    Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
    ~Cass
    [I don't remember the exact OS I was at, but I'm pretty sure it's 10.6.something]

    The dv7 notebook Maintenence & Service guide has the information that you need. See the illustrated parts list for the part number.
    From the manual:
    Supports the following double hard drive
    configurations:
    ● 2 TB: (1 TB, 5400 rpm, 12.5 mm × 2)
    ● 1500 GB: (750 GB, 7200 rpm, 9.5 mm × 2)
    ● 1500 GB: (750 GB, 5400 rpm, 9.5 mm × 2)
    ● 1 TB: (500 GB, 5400 rpm, 9.5 mm × 2)
    Hard drive (2, 2.5-in, SATA, does not include bracket, connector cable, Mylar shield, or screws):
      1-TB, 5400-rpm, 12.7-mm 638974-001
    750-GB, 7200-rpm, 9.5-mm 633252-001
    750-GB, 5400-rpm, 9.5-mm 634250-001
    640-GB, 5400-rpm, 9.5-mm 603785-001
    500-GB, 7200-rpm, 9.5-mm 608218-001
    500-GB, 5400-rpm, 9.5-mm 634932-001
    320-GB, 7200-rpm, 9.5-mm 634862-001
    320-GB, 5400-rpm, 9.5-mm 622643-001
    Hard Drive Hardware Kit (not illustrated, includes bracket, connector cable, Mylar
    shield, and screws)             665597-001
    You can order the parts through the HP Parts Store online. You can save quite a bit of money by ordering the identical parts from another online vendor.
    ****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
    2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

  • Best way to have hard drive temperature sensor replaced?

    Hi all—
    During an attempt to upgrade the hard drive in an early 2009 Mac Mini, I accidentally severed the connection between the hard drive temperature sensor and the interconnect board. I've confirmed with a friend knowledgable in this area that there is no reasonable way to solder it back on or otherwise fix it as it currently is.
    From what I can tell, I can either use a software hack to override the Mac Mini's fan speed, which I would prefer not to do, or I can have it replaced by a professional [I don't feel comfortable making such an in-depth repair on my own, especially since what should have been a simple drive swap has rendered the computer unusable, unless one can tolerate it sounding like a hair dryer].
    Does anyone have any recommendations on where I should take the Mini to get repaired? I've read online that Apple does not sell the interconnect board on its own--you have to buy a hard drive already attached to it. That would be fine, but is this the type of thing that a Genius will work on, or will I need to venture to an "authorized" repair facility? Any nudge in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

    bvogts wrote:
    Hi all—
    During an attempt to upgrade the hard drive in an early 2009 Mac Mini, I accidentally severed the connection between the hard drive temperature sensor and the interconnect board. I've confirmed with a friend knowledgable in this area that there is no reasonable way to solder it back on or otherwise fix it as it currently is.
    Ouch, I know exactly what you mean. One of my friends had that on her Early 2010 Mac Mini, I had to redo the connector with a new wire and then solder that to the end of the existing wire on the HDD. Difficult work when she severed in in two places
    bvogts wrote:
    From what I can tell, I can either use a software hack to override the Mac Mini's fan speed, which I would prefer not to do, or I can have it replaced by a professional [I don't feel comfortable making such an in-depth repair on my own, especially since what should have been a simple drive swap has rendered the computer unusable, unless one can tolerate it sounding like a hair dryer].
    I would stay well clear of all hacks to Apple hardware. They always get detected and get wiped out every time you update to the latest OS X update, for example OS X 10.7.1 to OS X 10.7.1.2 when it comes out. This will mean you will have to redo your hack; it could be much more frequent than that.
    bvogts wrote:
    Does anyone have any recommendations on where I should take the Mini to get repaired? I've read online that Apple does not sell the interconnect board on its own--you have to buy a hard drive already attached to it. That would be fine, but is this the type of thing that a Genius will work on, or will I need to venture to an "authorized" repair facility? Any nudge in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
    If you are not comfortable with doing the repair then take to to an authorized repair facility or buy the part of eBay as you can get them at a reasonable price. I have just looked for you and there are loads, in the UK, where I am and in America too. You can then take this part and they will swap it over for you, with a small cost, but it will solve your problems properly and will stop your Mac Mini sounding like a hair dryer!
    I hope this helps, if not then give me some more details, I am happy to help!

  • Questions Questions Questions via bootcamp/bad hard drive

    I think i fried one partition of my hard drive. I have the latest bootcamp installed onto my macbook pro 13". One partition is MAC OS 10.6.2 and the other is Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit. The Windows 7 boots up just fine. The Mac 10.6.2 does not. It freezes on the apple logo in the beginning of the start up. I ran disk utilities from my install DVD and it indicated that it could not repair the mac os 10.6.2 partitioned drive.
    Has anyone had this problem? the drive is only 6 months old. What would be a good utility to make sure both partitioned drives can be maintained and fixed?
    Interestingly I also noticed that when running under windows 7, the macbook pro heats up considerably. Is there anyway to fix this problem?

    Never rely on just Apple First Aid to find or repair problems.
    There are a number of good solid 3rd party ($$) programs that will.
    Alsoft Disk Warrior 4.2
    MicroMat TechTool Pro 5.0.x
    Drive Genius 2
    are the three I am most familiar with.
    In any event, you will want to install OS X on external drive for emergency repair maintenance and such.
    Clone your system (SuperDuper, Carbon Copy Cloner) is a good idea also, to backup volume (or even a sparse disk image).
    Apple doesn't - and Windows can't - it is up to the vendor of the motherboard or 3rd party fan control and monitoring the sensors. Normal steps like elevating the laptop so air gets underneath... not sure what people are doing, and heat is an issue with MacBook/iMac.

  • Do I have to re-do BootCamp after hard drive upgrade?

    I currently have an early-2011 MacBook Pro with 500GB storage. I ran BootCamp and now have a partitioned hd with 300GB on my OSX side and 200GB on my Windows side. I'm running out of space and want to upgrade my hd to a 1TB hd and was wondering if the ratio of storage space would be the same after the upgrade or if I would have to re-do BootCamp and re-install Windows. I have been backing up my computer on an external hd and would be able to go back to the way it was before I ran partitioned it, and since only games are on the Windows side (mostly through Steam), it wouldn't be too hard to start from scratch and re-install the games. So basically this is what I'm asking: after upgrading my hd from 500GB to 1TB, will I have to do BootCamp all over again or will I be able to choose how much space I put on each side of the partition?

    There is a surprising amount of misinformation about this topic. I don't know whether the people who make Winclone are to blame, but if you look right across the internet you'd be forgiven for coming to the conclusion that the only way to move, restore or resize your bootcamp petition is to use paid software. This is simply not true. If you're willing to spend some time and follow a couple more steps, it's easy to install a new hard drive, and put both your OSX and WIN7 partitions back precisely as they were (or resize as you please) without using anything other than freely available utilities.
    The way I've come up with uses a 160GB Maxtor USB drive and a DMG image of your bootcamp partition stored on a networked computer. I intended to write these up with screenshots at some point. But for now here are my unedited notes.
    1 - use a utility called SuperDuper to create a bootable exact copy of your OSX partition - this is where the Maxtor external drive was used. One of the beauties of Apple OS - you can boot from a portable drive...
    2 - Use the Disk Utility (Applications - Utilities) to create a DMG of your bootcamp partition - move this to a networked computer
    3 - Create a bootable CD of the partition management program "GParted" by downloading and burning an ISO from their website.
    Next step depends on what you want to achieve - this assumes you're installing a new drive.
    4 - Install your new hard drive - plenty of videos around on how to do this, not hard.
    5 - Plug in the drive that you used to create a backup of the MAC OS and hold down option when turning on - boot from the external drive
    6 - Using the disk utility, create two partitions on your brnad new internal HD. Size doesn't really matter at this stage - just so long as one is big enough to fit the MAC OS
    7 - Using SuperDuper copy your MAC OS back onto the first of the new partitions
    8 - Before you restart, restore the DMG image you've stored on a networked computer (Images-scan for restore) to the second partition. It's important that you are still running off the external drive when you do this as otherwise you'll get a "resource busy" error when you try to restore.
    9 - Shutdown. Turn on holding down option. Fire up the GParted disk you made early. It's an ugly interface, but gets the job done. Just accept the default settings when asked questions when starting up.
    10 - Using Gparted delete any extra partitions that have may have crept in (I had a FAT32 200MB partition that was causing issues) - what you should have is only two partitions the HFS and the NTFS partitions. You can resize these to whatever you feel like. This may take some time. Moving partitions around on a 750GB new drive took about 4 hours. Shutdown and unplug everything.
    11 -  Turn on and hold option. Select the Mac OS hard drive and your OSX will start. At this stage you won't be able to boot into Windows - that comes in a moment.
    12 - Download and install ReFit. Go into system preferences-startup disk and and make sure that the Mac OS is selected. Restart twice. Twice is important - that's when you should be greeted with the ReFit screen when you restart the second time.
    13 - On the refit menu, select the option to the right of the command prompt icon (the partition tool) - it will ask you if it can sync the Mac boot table with the Win boot table (something like adding the MBR to the boot schedule) - say yes. It takes less than a second.
    14 - Restart - and again hold option. Grab your original Windows installation CD and boot into it. Select your region and then go to "Repair your computer". Ignore the message about being able to fix and restart (choose No). Then choose Startup Repair. It'll do its thing. You can then restart.
    15 - You should now have a working OSX and Bootcamp drive on your new hard drive - exactly as it was on the old one. Without dropping a cent on software and a great sense of achievement.

  • New MB Pro: Does it still have a HDD motion sensor?

    The hard drive motion sensor had been promoted aggressively for the last generation of MacBook Pro notebooks. However, I have not found anything about it in the new MacBook Pro advertising and manuals.
    Does anyone know?
    Thanks!

    I can attest that the SMS does exist in the new gen. MBPs. I looked it up under the System Profiler and it stated that SMS was enabled.
    HTH.

  • 2011 imacs multiple hard drive sensor failures

    I work at a call center where we have over 200 2011 imacs.  Lately, they have been coming up with the ? on the folder (hard drive issue).  The drive cannot be seen in disk utility and when running a diagnostic on it, the error code that comes up mentions the hard drive temperature sensor failure.
    So far, in the last 3 weeks, we've had at LEAST 12 machines go down with this.  The machines we have are the 500gb drives -- not the 1T with the recall.  Is  anyone out there having this same issue? 
    Also -- do you know of some kind of bug/script, etc that might cause this?
    Usually, it happens logging onto the Open Directory Domain -- they are able to put a password in, then, the screen flashes white and when it comes back up, has the folder with the question mark on it.
    Outside of sending them in for repairs -- any ideas?
    Thanks.

    This topic is interesting because it may indicate a general problem on some Mid 2011 iMacs.
    Unfortunately, when the question mark appears at startup, the hard drive is damaged, and more when Apple Hardware Test reports a problem with the hard drive fan sensor. There isn't any other solution different to take the Mac to an Apple Store or reseller to get the hard drive replaced.
    I haven't noticed problems with Mid 2011 iMacs hard drives looking here. Maybe one user may come here with a Mid 2011 iMac and report the same problem, but I haven't heard anything about a generalized problem. My advice is that all people with problems with their Mid 2011 iMacs hard drives call Apple, so they can take note of the problem and launch a replacement program, if Apple considers this necessary

  • Hard drive failure, new hard drive won't boot

    Toshiba Satellite A665
    I bought this laptop 14 months ago, last month the laptop refused to boot. It would say:
    Isolinux disk error 05, ax4250, drive 9f
    Boot failed
    Often times on boot it would just show the black screen with a blinking underscore.
    I tried all my known methods and nothing so I took it to a couple of shops. Both said that the hard drive was beyond repairable and not recoverable.
    So I bought a new hard drive, installed it with the Toshiba recovery media. The recovery and install on new and drive went well. Had to restart, and upon restart, the original problem came up again- black screen with blinking underscore. I am unable to boot up. Any suggestions?
    Thank you all

    AHA, just fan issue?
    Tukaine
    Sep 23, 2012 10:59 PM
    Since the late 2009 iMacs came out, replacing the hard drive has caused the internal Hard Drive Fan to start running at around 6000RPM.
    This is due to Apple replacing the external Hard Drive temperature sensor with a proprietary firmware and using the drives internal sensor.
    Replacement drives do not contain the firmware to deliver temperature data on the temperature sensor cable.
    When the iMac does not receive a good signal from the hard drive it puts the fan at full speed to protect the drive.
    If you replace your drive, your iMac will initially seem fine, but soon the fan will begin to speed up to full speed. Resetting the SMC (System Management Controller) will have a temporary effect, but again the fan will speed up.
    Fixes people have used in the past included:
    Using smcFanControl and the terminal to set a MAX speed for the fan and writing scripts to start this after every sleep/restart.
    Shorting the temperature sensor cable (Not a possibility on 2011 iMacs) this tricks the iMac into thinking the drives temperature is very low, hence slow fan speed.
    Both these fixes are less then perfect and leave the drive in a dangerous situation with no protection from overheating.
    Another option people try is other Fan Control software. These programs will not work for this particular issue as they often only control the base speed, and if they do control the fans actual speed they rely on the temperature reported by the sensor which is now incorrect.
    HDD Fan Control
    HDD Fan Control works to fix this issue by reading the drives internal temperature using the S.M.A.R.T protocol and set the fans actual speed to a value good to protect the drive.
    It runs at startup and continually to always control the fan correctly, prevent the loud fan noise and protect the drive from overheating
    Instead of HDDFan Control, get the free SSDFan Control
    http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

  • Where can i get hard drive cable?

    i've hand one on back order for two months with two different retailers who both say Apple has them on back order.  i dont want a used part because i understand now that they tend to fail.  2009-2010 unibody macpro hard drive and sensor cable. Any ideas?  can't get it direct from Apple?  For reading my plea.

    I don't know who you're listening to, but I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to buy a used cable with a warranty from a reputable vendor and good Mac community member like iFixit. In over ten years of recommending iFixit on these boards, I don't recall ever hearing a complaint from anyone who bought parts from them.

  • MacBook fan running high most of the time after HDD/Hard-drive Upgrade

    Hi guys,
    I've just recently upgraded my MacBook white's (MacBook5,2, 2GHZ duo core, 4GB ram) stock harddrive to a WD 2.5" black 750GB. After which, I noticed my macbook fan running at high speeds majority of the time... Even when just doing light weight stuff on it, such as surfing the net using Safari or even just leaving my computer idle after startup.
    I did a clean install twice, the second was too see if it was really just a badly installed OS, but the problem still persisted, well at least till I decided to come here to type the post =P (maybe my macbook's scared about being talked about). Do note, that I did a pc migration each time.
    After the upgrade, My fan usually runs at about 5000-6200 rpm, but right now as I'm typing this post, its surprisingly alot lower then what I've been experiencing. About 3000rpm-4000rpm.
    As for the harddrive temperature, I noticed it runs between the 37 degree to 40 degree celsius range, so I'm guessing the hard-drive temperature sensor isn't busted, which was the problem for others from what I've read from other discussions here.
    Also, when I boot my windows partition, the fan doesn't go as crazy, but it eventually will too.
    Any idea what the problem could be? =s Or could it be that my MacBook can't handel 7200rpm hard drives =/ If so I'd probably downgrade to a 1TB WD blue =s
    On top of that, does any one know if the 2.5" WD blue are as reliable as the 2.5" WD blacks? As I'm heistant to downgrade as I've read that the blues have a higher failure rate, and wouldn't want that happening. Oh and I'm not considering an SSD for this particular MacBook at the moment, as I may upgrade in another two years or so!
    Thank you!
    Edwin

    Hey Mende1,
    Well I guess I'll try returning the drive at the end of this week then my fan seemed to have slowed down abit since the upgrade, it's sorta spinning around 3000rpm now. I'm not sure if it's gonna be the same thoughout, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't spin as much as it did when I had my old HDD on. So I'm giving it a few more day probably till the end of this week. And if the noise issue still surfaces I'll try a different hard drive! and update you on the results!
    Thanks alot Mende1!
    And hello there rauldoppler!
    Well, firstly, I'm using a early 2009 MacBook white! The pre-unibody one. It's running on a 2GHz Intel Core 2 Duo processor with 4GB for ram.
    As for the hard-drives, I'd actually reccommend you to upgrade to an Solid State Drive if you can afford it, but if you're like me who needs more memory space then boot speed etc, I guess a HDD will be fine =) As for which brand of hard-drives, I would actually recommend WD (their black drives especially, 5 year warranty, 7200rpm speed hehe), but right now I'm having the fan problems, so I'm not too sure anymore.
    I did however, do quite abit of digging around on the net and concluded that WD was a better choices amoungst the rest... But yeah the fan issue is still something I didn't expect. All in all, I guess as for which drive is better, it really depends on your needs or wants, if it's for casual internet surfing and stuff, a WD blue HDD would be fine, or a black if you want a slightly faster boot speed etc at the expense of your battery life and all. If you however value blazing fast boot times and application start up times, go for an SSD. If you need the memory space more then anything then I'd say go for a HDD again too, as it's cheaper interms of gigabite to dollar ratio. (for example, the older 500GB version of my new WD black would cost USD $43, while a Samsung 500GB SSD Pro would cost $349) Also, You could do abit of reading up on SSDs if you're interested in it There's alot of plus points to it, like ALOT, and if the price tag wasn't so huge, I would have used it for my macbook already!
    Lastly, I used a WD Black 750GB for my macbook upgrade. However, I'm gonna downgrade to a WD blue 1TB this weekend if the fan doesn't settle down over time Cause well, the fan noise is really an issue for me.
    Peace out guys!
    Edwin

  • DIY hard drive upgrade gone sideways...

    I just completed an upgrade of the hard drive in my 20" iMac G5 (no iSight). After filling it chock full of picture and movies, I installed a WD 750GB drive to replace the original WD 250GB. I followed the Apple DIY guide, and for the most part it went smoothly.
    Except, that is, on step 4, page 7 of the guide. During that step, it is necessary to remove the hard drive thermal sensor cable from the hard drive mounting, leaving it attached to the system board. I did that, and the jack at the end of the cable came apart...it just crumbled. I was able to reseat the cable ends into what was left of the jack, get it reattached and complete the upgrade. My upgrade to 10.5 also went smoothly. But I know that the cable is not all Kosher in there, and I want to get a new one in ASAP. The part number is 593-0151-A and there is also a "K 1705 1" printed on the part label.
    I've heard that this is not an uncommon occurrence, but it leaves me searching the web for a replacement. I can't find one anywhere except in the UK. I'm just not willing to send the unit into Apple for a $3 part. Any suggestions for a US-based supplier of Apple parts?
    Message was edited by: pjmama

    Welcome to Discussions - try [here|http://www.welovemacs.com/aphadidrac.html] or [here|http://www.partstore.com/sl/1/indexd123.html].

  • My iMac 11,2 with hard drive and cable display problems

    My iMac 11,2 with useless hard drive. Tried to replace with Seagate hard drive, but thermal connector is different from hard drive Samsung that comes with computer. I also need to replace the display cable. Any suggestions?
    thanks

    Hi, on the hard drive...
    Tukaine
    Sep 23, 2012 10:59 PM
    Since the late 2009 iMacs came out, replacing the hard drive has caused the internal Hard Drive Fan to start running at around 6000RPM.
    This is due to Apple replacing the external Hard Drive temperature sensor with a proprietary firmware and using the drives internal sensor.
Replacement drives do not contain the firmware to deliver temperature data on the temperature sensor cable.
When the iMac does not receive a good signal from the hard drive it puts the fan at full speed to protect the drive.
    If you replace your drive, your iMac will initially seem fine, but soon the fan will begin to speed up to full speed. Resetting the SMC (System Management Controller) will have a temporary effect, but again the fan will speed up.
    Fixes people have used in the past included:
        •    Using smcFanControl and the terminal to set a MAX speed for the fan and writing scripts to start this after every sleep/restart.
        •    Shorting the temperature sensor cable (Not a possibility on 2011 iMacs) this tricks the iMac into thinking the drives temperature is very low, hence slow fan speed.
    Both these fixes are less then perfect and leave the drive in a dangerous situation with no protection from overheating.
    Another option people try is other Fan Control software. These programs will not work for this particular issue as they often only control the base speed, and if they do control the fans actual speed they rely on the temperature reported by the sensor which is now incorrect.
    HDD Fan Control
    HDD Fan Control works to fix this issue by reading the drives internal temperature using the S.M.A.R.T protocol and set the fans actual speed to a value good to protect the drive. 
It runs at startup and continually to always control the fan correctly, prevent the loud fan noise and protect the drive from overheating.
    Hmmm, A1311 brings me to a G5 iMac 20" ???
    But EMC 2389 brings me to 21.5" Intewl iMac!?
    http://www.ifixit.com/Mac-Parts/iMac-21.5"-(EMC-2389)#0-Cables

  • HT1752 I need a replacement hard drive for model a1311 iMac

    I removed my old hard drive, which is an original WD 500GB from my mid 2010 iMac, to try to replace with a seagate 1T but I found out that the original hard drive (thermal sensor) has 8 pins and my new one has only 4 pins.  What should I do?

    Hi, only Apple has those special drives as far as I know, but there are workarounds...
    Tukaine
    Sep 23, 2012 10:59 PM
    Since the late 2009 iMacs came out, replacing the hard drive has caused the internal Hard Drive Fan to start running at around 6000RPM.
    This is due to Apple replacing the external Hard Drive temperature sensor with a proprietary firmware and using the drives internal sensor.
Replacement drives do not contain the firmware to deliver temperature data on the temperature sensor cable.
When the iMac does not receive a good signal from the hard drive it puts the fan at full speed to protect the drive.
    If you replace your drive, your iMac will initially seem fine, but soon the fan will begin to speed up to full speed. Resetting the SMC (System Management Controller) will have a temporary effect, but again the fan will speed up.
    Fixes people have used in the past included:
        •    Using smcFanControl and the terminal to set a MAX speed for the fan and writing scripts to start this after every sleep/restart.
        •    Shorting the temperature sensor cable (Not a possibility on 2011 iMacs) this tricks the iMac into thinking the drives temperature is very low, hence slow fan speed.
    Both these fixes are less then perfect and leave the drive in a dangerous situation with no protection from overheating.
    Another option people try is other Fan Control software. These programs will not work for this particular issue as they often only control the base speed, and if they do control the fans actual speed they rely on the temperature reported by the sensor which is now incorrect.
    HDD Fan Control
    HDD Fan Control works to fix this issue by reading the drives internal temperature using the S.M.A.R.T protocol and set the fans actual speed to a value good to protect the drive. 
It runs at startup and continually to always control the fan correctly, prevent the loud fan noise and protect the drive from overheating
    Instead of HDDFan Control, get the free SSDFan Control
    http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

  • I just had the seagate hard drive replaced and the fan is running loud

    I just had the seagate hard drive replaced and the fan is running loud

    Is your iMac a late 2009 or newer model? Did Apple do the replacement or someone else? There is a documented issue where Apple changed the hard drive heat sensor from outside the drive to inside. If you install a replacement hard drive in a late 2009 or newer iMac that's not an Apple-sourced drive, two things happen ... the fan runs like crazy and the Apple hardware test doesn't work properly.
    You can read these OWCS blogs here and here on it. 

  • Macbook Pro 2010 Hard Drive Constant Verification Problem

    Hi guys and girls. I'm at my wits end with my beloved Macbook Pro 2010. Recently in the last 6 months it has randomly on 3 occasions just powered down all of a sudden during operating. When it restarts it comes up with the apple logo and that loading bar underneath but fails to fully load and once again powers off.
    I then go into CMD+R and will find that the Hitachi HDD will state 'SMART STATUS' as 'Verified' and it will verify permissions.When I go to verify the disk it comes up with an error. if i try and do a back up I get the common 'error 20'; message even if I try it to an external hard drive or different usbs.
    In the end I have to reinstall the OSX and install the OSX on a 1TB Toshiba USB, then the mac restarts and works but keeps booting off my Toshiba USB. I end up having to use superclone and transfer it to the Hitachi drive. The Hitachi drive will format and work once the OSX is running.
    Randomly this cycle will repeat itself every few months - ie computer turns off all of a sudden..FAIL loading..and same problem with disk utility.
    I wanted to ask is this as my hard drive needs replacing that this is happening or do I have a more serious problem?
    I

    lemoncool wrote:
    If I replace the internal hard drive and the same thing happens again, this would mean it is a cable issue?
    https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2010+Hard+Drive-IR+ Sensor+Cable+Replacement/3031
    Unplugging and reconnecting the cable may resolve it - bad connection
    Yes, that is a possibility.  Reconnecting may solve the issue but that is not a 100% solution.
    How would I go about unplugging and reconnecting it when am installing the new internal hard drive?
    I am guessing that you have a 13" 2010 MBP.  If not, the same web site has instructions for 2010 15" and 17" MBPs as well.  Examine these instructions:
    https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2010+Hard+Drive+Cab le+Replacement/4304
    https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2010+Hard+Drive+Rep lacement/4305
    Also in terms of the phillips and torx to install the internal hard drive- would this one be suitable that shop sells?- http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/23-in-1-multi-function-precision-screwdriver-n42jx
    NO!  That tool does not have the correct sizes for either driver.  #00 Phillips, #6 Torx are the ones you need.
    Ciao.

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