Bug cpu voltage - Z77A GD65 - V10.5

Hi all
for information only. I have fake boot if set
cpu voltage - Auto
cpu ratio - 45
everything else is at default !!
Bios version V10.5 (i have tested also V10.3 and V10.0)
I need a cmos reset after this settings.
if someone has the same problem, I would love to know.
I have already contacted msi

Quote
Overclocking problem with vcore auto?? it's a joke? this cpu works great with 1,280V on 4500Mhz why not work with vcore auto?
There is a considerable difference in Intel CPU's as to OC ability. It's called luck-of-the-draw. Jack is correct, your CPU appears it can't handle a 45X on Auto voltage. It's just the way it is sometimes. Another exemplar might even do 46X or 47X on default voltage. Is the 1.280v. confirmed by digital multimeter at the V-Checkpoint? 4.4 - 4.6 range is an average one might expect, but not an absolute guarantee on default voltage.

Similar Messages

BIOS doesn't change CPU Voltage P55-GD65

I have a P55-GD65 with BIOS Ver 1.7
No matter what setting I put the the CPU voltage it seems to run in auto only. I have tried many combination's of settings that I have read on the forums but nothing seems to be working.
Has anybody had this problem?
Thanks,
Mark

Yes even when I have Intel C-STATE and Intel EIST disabled.
The voltage is much lower. I can't over clock because I cannot up the CPU voltage. I have the CPU multiplier at 21 and the clock at 155. If I go even up to 156 on the clock my system will blue screen.
When I put the voltage in Auto and monitor it and then put it in manual and crank it up to 1.45 and monitor it the voltage behaves as it is in auto. I have XMS 1600 memory and the Mugen B rev 2 cooler so I know that is not an issue. I might have a defective MB. I've been building PC's for years so I'm not a newbe. I've usually used Supermicro boards and this is my first MSI board. The board is very nice and if it worked it would be great. I was going to build another system with that board but am a little gun shy now.
Thanks for all your help.
Mark

How I Re-Unlocked My CPU Multiplier - Z77A-GD65

This whole inconvenience started when I flashed to the latest BIOS for my board. I was curious about the "- Support Windows8 feature" that it had in the description, and so I went for it. Previously, I had already updated my BIOS to version 10.6 without a problem.
After completing the BIOS update, I went into the Click-BIOS II and explored the new options. Boo! Nothing that really benefited me or that seemed "cool" so I just went on with my day. I started to notice that my game (League of Legends) was loading a little slower than before, and that's when I remembered that I had not reset the overclocking options that I had before. I went back into the BIOS and tried to reset my options. No go! Oh, wait! OC Genie! Nope! Flash backup BIOS! Nope, nope, nope! My CPU was hopelessly limited to a multiplier setting range of 16-38.
There are many things that I read and tried that didn't give me back the option to go beyond a multiplier setting of 38, but I will not discuss those now, unless someone asks. Therefore, the following is the exact process that I used that finally allowed me to fully re-unlock my CPU multiplier settings.
Hardware Specs:
Motherboard: Z77A-GD65
CPU: Core i5-3570K
Memory: 8GB Corsair Dominator 1866
Boot HD: Samsung 830 Series SSD
OS: Windows 8 Pro 64-bit
GPU: MSI nVidia 660-Ti OC
What that you will need:
PATIENCE!
Beverage of Choice (Coffee, Beer, Tea, etc...) - VERY IMPORTANT
USB Stick Drive (FAT32, Quick Format)
BIOS Versions: 10.3, 10.5, 10.6 - You can put them all on the USB stick at the same time.
About 1 Hour
These instructions assume that you are starting from BIOS version 10.7 (like I did), but they may work even if you are not currently on that version.
Step 1: Double clear CMOS memory - While machine is turned off and unplugged, hold the "Clear_CMOS" button for 10 seconds. Next, remove the battery (in front of PCIE Slot 1 under dedicated graphics card (in case you forgot ^_^)). Walk away and get a second serving of your favorite beverage. Rum and coke FTW!
Step 2: Put CMOS battery back into its place.
If you have NOT touched (flashed) your backup BIOS then follow instructions for 3A (This is what I did!). If you HAVE flashed it already, follow instructions for 3B.
Step 3A1 : Set BIOS selector switch to 2nd bios (move it to the other side from where it was). Boot into BIOS settings, navigate to BIOS flash menu and select "MultiBIOS flash". It will prompt you if you want to restore the BIOS and select Yes. This will return the "primary" BIOS to the same version that you had on your second BIOS, provided that you have not touched your "backup" BIOS.
Step 3A2: After your machine is done with flashing BIOS, it will restart and attempt to load the OS, it will most likely not find an OS. Go back into the BIOS and check your multiplier settings, mine was still limited to 38; if yours are back to normal and everything works for you and you don't mind being on version 10.3, then good job and you're done! Don't forget to have a good laugh and to feel good about yourself . Otherwise, turn off your computer and for 10 seconds press and hold the "Clear_CMOS" button in the back.
Step 3A3: Flash BIOS 10.3 over the restored primary BIOS and you should be able to recover the "UEFI Windows Boot Manager" option in the "UEFI" boot manager. Check BIOS settings again, my multiplier was still limited to 38. Go to Step 4.
Step 4: Boot into Windows and reinstall the Intel ME drivers.If the driver installs okay then go to Step 5. If driver installation says "your hardware does not meet requirements", go to Step 4B.
Step 4B: This happened to me at some point in trying to fix my BIOS, and so I'm covering it for those that might find themselves in the same situation right now. If the ME driver installation says that your computer does not meet the requirements, then that means that your ME firmware got wiped or corrupted. If you go into your BIOS and check your System Information, you will get the following screen. Where it says "ME Version" that will be blank, no number there. To fix it is quite simple, simply "Flash BIOS" version 10.6, reboot into BIOS and then select "Flash BIOS and ME", select version 10.6 (XXXXXXXX.A60) file.
Step 5: Boot into BIOS, flash BIOS version 10.5, reboot into Windows, reinstall Intel ME drivers.
Step 6: Repeat step 5 but this time flash BIOS (Not Flash BIOS and ME) version 10.6.
Step 7: Boot into BIOS, and this time in the flash menu select "Flash BIOS AND ME", and select version 10.6".
Step 8: Boot into BIOS and CONGRATULATIONS your CPU multiplier is back to normal.

NOTE: You will not get the selection menu for the multiplier, but you can change it with + or -, or by typing in the number. Previously, any time I would type anything above 38, it would simply go to 38. Good luck!
P.S.: I don't care much for stress testing my current OC setup because everything that I do works great (no errors/restarts for 4 months) and is not highly-hardware demanding for long periods of time. League of Legends max settings is easily handled by the hardware configuration and that's pretty much the most intense use that it gets.

Z77a-gd65 voltages

hello i have the z77a-gd65 and was wonderring if i should rma it as the voltages in control center says the 12v is down to 11.792. i have a corsair ax1200i and the link software says its sat at 12.000 to 12.100. is there a problem with the sensors on this board or is it just the control center.i have bios v10.0. i dont know if its a bios thing and dont know what iam doing to flash bios to see if that fixes it any help would be nice thanks

Ok one more thing I should of said is I had the same problem with MSI p67a-gd65 b3 with the same voltages. I sold the p67 to my brother and the voltages are correct now. Could this be down to my Intel I5 or could it just be the bios needs updating. Last night stripped my pc down to motherboard diffrent ram and CPU and cooler no change in voltage at all any help welcome

Enabling OC Genie II from Control Center downgrades the CPU?!?! Z77A-GD65

Now I'm getting all the time more and more confused about this Z77A-GD65 with Intel i7 3770K over-clocking. I really hope that someone could help.
OK, there's a button on the motherboard that by enabling it the system automatically overclocks itself during the next boot. OK, fine. But what is that OC Genie II button in Control Center supposed to be? After enabling the OC button on mainboard and rebooting the CPU multiplier goes up from the default 35 to 42 and that's fine. But when enabling the OC Genie II overclocker from within Windows (from MSI Control Center) and rebooting, then the clock multiplier downgrades back to 35 ?!?!?! Why is that?
How is the Control Center supposed to be used for overclocking? Does it have a bug or something? At least it doesn't seem to work for me? Should the BIOS be reset to default values first or something? Should the OC Genie button on the motherboard be enabled at all?
However I would be happy to be able to automatically tune-up my system directly from Windows 7 (X64, SP1) but I don't know how to do it.
And why there's a button on the motherboard if the over-clocker is supposed to be working from within Control Center? Which one should I use and how? Moreover, should I have the main setting set (via reboot --> BIOS) set to STANDARD or OC GENIE II? I have so much trouble understanding all this..
PLEASE PLEASE HELP! Thank you friends.

Quote from: xmad on 26-September-12, 09:17:04
Go into bios and in the OC section, change "OC Genie Function Control" from By onboard button to "by bios option" see if that works better.
Also, most people don't use control center for more than monitering. I do all of my overclocking from UEFI/Bios and check on things in click bios II.
OK, thank you! That's exactly what I needed to know! So the Control Center's (within Windows) "Use OC Genie" shouldn't be used either? I suspect that this being enabled has got something to do with my poor ATI RADEON HD5770 performance. I'm currently experimenting it, don't know yet. But I will try disabling OC Genie from Control Center.
But should I disable the oc Genie button also on the motherboard itself? How would that affect things? Easier/harder to overclock the MB with OC Genie enabled? These current MB's are so damn complicated But I'd appreciate any help!

Z77A-GD65 network and audio bugs

I'm having a few weird issues with my setup.
first off its a Z77A-GD65 bios v10.7
i7-3770K CPU @ 3.50GHz, 4201 Mhz with noctua NH-D14
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory (CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10) win says that there is only 3.9g available, and that its only running at 800 mhz
Samsung 840 Pro Series 2.5-Inch 128 SATA 6.0 gb/s ssd
WD Black Desktop 1TB SATA 6.0 GB/s 7200 RPM
win 8
first issue just appeared out of nowhere a week after I finally got it running. There is a network error every time I start the system, if I restart it goes away.
I"m having audio problems, the speakers in my monitor work with the hdmi cable, but I am unable to use my good speakers, when I plug them into the back panel line out, there is no audio from any port, or the hdmi cable.
I've also noticed a device without a driver error

win8 is a 32b version, it was a 39.95 upgrade directly from microsoft... safe to assume that the 64b version is worth the extra $?
have the board in a brand new case using 9 stand offs, all with screws through the board and into them.
The NIC is onboard, all the drivers are up to date except the audio, I'm downloading an updated driver for it (released 1/25/13)
left the machine turned on when I went to bed, when I got up the power led was blinking, and I had to press the power button to wake the machine. this web page was open, but there was no network available, same error as above, I had to restart windows to get online.
Edit: the updated driver fixed the audio problem

Steps And Explain How To OverClock MB:Z77a-gd65 Cpu:I7 3770k Ram:2x4(8gb) 2133

Steps And Explain How To OverClock and tell us why we enabled and disabled option and voltage and shortcut means ex: ( EIST )
Board : MSI Z77A-GD65
VGA : gigabyte 570 soc
V-Bios : 10.8
PSU : huntkey 700w
CPU : Intel Core I7-3770K
MEM : gskill 2133 2x4gb F3-17000CL9D-8GBXM http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=403
HDD : corsair force 3 SSD 60gb on(OS)
Cooler : corsair H100
OS : Win 8 Pro 64bit
Case : bitfenix.Colossus

Quote
Spread Spectrum ---Disable--- why
Spread Spectrum is for unique situation where there are TONS of computers in close proximity and is used to prevent them from interfering with each other via emf. It is also less stable.
Quote
Q2 :Intel Turbo Boost ---enbled--- why
This would be enabled when using a turbo oc. It boosts the cpu multiplier when under load.
Quote
Q3 :Enhanced Turbo------ enbled----why
Enhances turbo operation by increasing the multiplier on all of the cores to the same amount.
Quote
Q4 :intrnal pll overvoltage -----enbled---- why
You can leave this on "auto" for most everyday overclocks. It increase voltage to the PLL a tab but can cause issues with sleep if you are using an everyday OC.

Z77A-GD65 GAMING PCIe bug?

Greetings
First of all I'm Portuguese and i hope you understand my English
I have this motherboard "Z77A-GD65 GAMING" gonna make 4 days and i fund (i think) 2 bug's
1- I try to disable PCIe Gen3 on BIOS to have PCIe Gen 2 and wont disable it whatever i do still running on
PCI3 GEN3
2- I notice weird thing on PCIe, I'm running 2 Nvidia's GTX680 in SLI and the BUS Interface change from pci-e 3.0x16 @x8 3.0 to pci-e 3.0 x16 @x8 1.1 every second and the fps on game drop's
real time screenshot at 3.0 and my pc info
real time at 1.1
eny ideas what's going on?

Quote from: xmad on 01-October-13, 22:52:14
Why would you want to disable PCIE 3?
In your Geforce Control Center, disable the power savings features and see if it stays constant.
I wanna disable PCIe 3 for performance test nothing more...
I change the Power Management to Maximum performance and works like charme no more frame drop or 1.1 thanks mate
Quote from: Papf on 01-October-13, 21:39:18
PCIE version is dependent from the CPU - IB and Haswell - PCIE 3.0 - SB 2.0.
Yes and no.. correct me if im worng
PCIe 2.0 only for 2nd Generation cpu
PCIe 2.0/3.0 for 3nd Generation CPU
so thats why the board have
PCI Subsystem settings ---> PCIE GEN3 ----> Auto or Disabled
and that is something supposed to work

990FXA GD65 CPU voltage reading

Hi, I Have an MSI 990FXA GD65 with an AMD FX 6100 cpu.
I have been struggling with this board for a while trying to match the voltage I set in the bios to the readings I am getting from CPU-Z and HWMonitor.
at default with CPU voltage set to auto in the bios cpu-Z and HWMonitor show 1.32v at idle and about 1.30v under load with P95, if I set the cpu voltage to 1.4 in bios they show about 1.48 at idle and 1.44 under load.
What puzzles me is that my CPU needs 1.4v in bios to run at 4.2 ghz, this seems to match what a lot of other people are getting with this CPU but if I am to trust CPU-Z's readings then I am needing 1.44v so should I be trusting what I set in the Bios or should I go with CPU-Z and face that I need a lot of volts to run stable and 4.2ghz is as far as I can go.
I also seem to have very low temperatures for running such high voltages, if it's really at 1.48v then surely it should be getting hotter than 46 degrees running P95 even with a corsair H80. Temps were even lower with a thor's hammer in push/pull on there.
For some reason I cannot run MSI ControlCentre in windows 8.1 so I have no idea what that will tell me.
So just joined up here to see if anybody else has the same issue and can give me some advice.
Thanks,

I have the sunbeam twister 120, and it's AMAZING! The fans on it rotate in different directions making the airflow VERY quiet even at 3k RPM. It's a dual fan push pull with 3 DirectCU Healpipes, and an amazingly smooth base. I purchased mine for just under 30 bucks from Newegg (discontinued on their site) and it allows me to push my AMD Athlon ii X4 640 (3.0Ghz) to 3.8 with a 1v change, and still keeps it around stock temps. @ 3.5Ghz (what I run @ stable due to motherboard limitations) I hit a max of 40c core temp and an idle of anywhere between 16c-20c.
Stock temps were about 19-21c idle, and 38-40 under load.
Stock cooler was almost 20c more idle, and under load, so this is DEFINITELY a badass cooler.
It also comes with a fairly decent size tube of TX-4 Tuniq paste which is apparently one of the best in the game, so I went ahead, and used some of that on my HIS HD 6850, and I'll be damned, the paste alone dropped my temps enough to get a world record breaking overclock on stock air cooling. The heatsink also comes with a "RheoSmart" rheostat controller that also plugs into the four, or three pin cpu fan connector, to allow you to switch between manual, or motherboard controller speeds. (Which is pretty awesome IMHO) I absolutely LOVE this thing, and am 150% confident it'll be able ot cool my 8350 efficiently when I get it (if I don't end up waiting on the Steamroller cpu line.)
This is what you're looking for. According to several testers across the internet, this is right on par with a V6-V8 cooler...and over 30 bucks cheaper.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835207009
http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/cooler/twister120.html
This is the validation for my CPU using the paste that comes in the box with the Twister 120 - btw, that's on the standard stock HS...nothing special at ALL.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/cr3w7/
and a photo of how it performs compared to a 6950 with speeds near those.

Which CPU heatsink/fan for Z77A-GD65? - if 90 C at 100% load is too high?

With stock Intel heat sink and keeping the CPU (i7 3770) load at 100% for hours, the CPU temp hovers around 89-90 C. My case has 2 x 120 mm fans in the front and 2 x 120 mm fans on the back of the case, . With the room temperature of 20-22 C, the typical idle CPU Temp is 30-32 C.
Two questions please.
1) Is keeping the CPU temperature at 90 C all day "safe"?
2) What after market heat-sink would would recommend for this MB, if the temperature should be dropped few degrees.
My observation for Z77A-GD65: There isn't much real-estate around the CPU for a large coolers and furthermore, my case cannot fit one of those tall cooler heat sinks with 120 mm fan on the fins.
I don't overclock, but run multiple CPU intensive simulations.
i7 3770,
Z77A-D65 MB,
Corsair 750TX PSU,
Corsair Veangeance LP 4 x 8GB RAM ( CML16GX3M2A1600C10)
using internal INTEL graphics and I have 5 x 1TB HDD's of various brand.

UPDATE:
Thank you again for the good suggestions.
I installed Arctic Freezer 13 CO cooler and the temp dropped about 25 C from 90C to 65C with 100% CPU load (my simulation program) for nearly 10 hours.
Tested on Prime95 => 71 C max after 10 hours. Before the upgrade, I dared not run prime95 because the temperature would quickly shoot up above 90C.
IntelBurnTest 2.54 Max Stress => 80 C max
The 92mm cooler fan clears barely above the low profile RAM. It may not fit on high profile RAM( those with high heat spread) Max RPM is about 2100. It's very quiet. I cannot tell apart the cooler fan noise over the case fan noise. After trying to get optimal fan speed using MB BIOS and MSI Control Center, I decided to turn off smart fan control and leave the fan speed at 100%. This "CO: Continuous Operation" fan is supposed to last a long time anyway.

Z77A-GD65 Gaming CPU Core Speed Lock 1.6Ghz

Hello everyone, this is my first time using a MSI board at first I'm using the default setting in BIOS and the core speed at idle is at 1.6GHz which is fine. However, when the CPU cores are at full load it still remains at 1.6GHz.
I've done a bit of research tried different settings with EIST, Intel Turbo Boost, Enhanced Turbo, Adjust CPU Ratio, C1E, but it is not working.
Just to clarify the power settings in Windows is set to balanced.
Here's my rig's spec:
Motherboard: Z77A-GD65 Gaming
CPU: Intel 2600k
RAM: Corsair vengeance 16GB kit
VGA: AMD 290x
Storage: Corsair Force GT 120GB
OS: tried both Win7 and Win8 64bit
Thanks in advance
P.S. I'm away from home at the moment if needed I can take some screen caps from the BIOS.

For initial setup, establish everything works correctly at stock/auto/default on all the OC settings. Make sure EuP 2013 and Spread Spectrum are disabled. EIST and C1E enabled is fine, and just try with standard Turbo enabled and Enhanced Turbo disabled. Might try with C-State disabled. Download the utility Intel Burn Test (IBT) and see if the CPU speed ramps up to the Turbo speed.

Sneak Peek of MSI's Z77A-GD65 Motherboard :)

Here is a quick sneak peek of MSI's Z77A-GD65 motherboard. The board is intended for the upcoming Ivybridge 22nm processor which I think will be out this end of April. CPU socket is based on LGA 1155, so current Sandybridge Processors such as 2600k, 2500, 2300, etc… are still compatible. Other than this, the chipset natively supports USB 3.0 and PCI Express GEN3 lanes which can do both NVIDIA SLI and AMD CrossFireX. Running one video card is at x16, two at x8/x8 and three at x8/x4/x4.
With the release of MSI X79 motherboards a month ago. MSI introduced Military Class III Components. This consists of Solid Capacitors, Super Ferrite Chokes (better overclocking and power stability), Hi-C Caps and DrMOS II (higher power efficiency, double thermal protection). All these components have passed the MIL-STD-810G Standards giving the best durability, efficiency and overclock on MSI motherboards.
Moving on, here is the Z77 of MSI looks like. Black and Blue color themed motherboard and I pretty like what they have done with the heatsinks. The layout is clean and finally they moved the OC Genie, Reset and Power buttons on the upper right portion of the board. Much accessible especially when you are in a TRI-SLI video card configuration.
Some basic information on MSI Z77A-GD65:
•Memory Support – 4x DDR3 DIMMs Support DDR3 2667/2400/2133/1866/1600/1333/1066 DRAM 32GB Max
•LAN – 10/100/1000 Fast Ethernet by Intel 82579V
•Audio – Integrated HD Audio Codec by Realtek ALC898. 8-Channel audio with jack sensing. Compliant with Azalia 1.0 Spec
•SATA – 4x SATA 6GB/s Ports (SATA 1-2 Intel Z77 / SATA 7-8 ASMedia ASM1061), 4x SATA 3Gb/s ports (SATA 3-6 Intel Z77)
•RAID – SATA 1-6 Support Intel Rapid Storage Technology (0/1/5/10)
•USB 3.0 – 2x USB 3.0 Rear I/O by intel Z77 / 1x USB 3.0 Internal Connector by Intel Z77
Rear IO Ports
•1x PS/2 Keyboard/Mouse Port
•1x Clear CMOS Button
•1x Coaxial SPDIF-out Port
•1x Optical SPDIF-out Port
•4x USB 2.0 Ports
•2x USB 3.0 Ports
•1x LAN Port
•6x Audio Ports
•1x HDMI port
•1xDVI-D Port
•1x VGA Port
Let’s check out the lower portion of the board. Just below the South Chipset Heatsink. You will find the Debug LED Code and beside it is the MULTI Bios Switch.
The white SATA ports on the right side are the one being controlled by the Intel Z77 Chipset while on the other side are by ASMedia. You will also find the USB 3.0 L-Type Oriented Header for better cable management.
Bundled Accessories
•1x Certificate of Quality and Stability
•1x Manual and Software Application Guide
•1x Drivers & Utilities DVD (Winki III)
•1xSLI Bridge
•1xEasyConnector Header Guide
•1xIO Back Panel Plate
•4x SATA 6GB/s Cables
•1xV-Check Cables
I was able to test the motherboard using an Intel Core i7 2600K. Well it seems for me that the Z77 is more better in overclocking compared than the previous P67 and Z68 MSI models. Voltages are quite accurate too. It wasn’t hard for me reaching a 4.8GHz overclock on the said motherboard.
Below are two benchmark results using MSI Z77A-GD65 and the 2600k.
So that’s it for my share Hope you liked it guys

Quote from: xmad on 30-November-12, 09:49:07
I wouldn't get too tied up in benchmarking unless that is what you are going to be doing with your computer. The -gd65 is MSI's 3rd best z77 motherboard, but it is also a bit older and has more bugs worked out.
One big strike against the gd65 is it's lack of a true hardware switch for it's multi bios. The -gd80 and mpower both have multi bios's with a true hardware switch, this come in very handy if you like to tinker and end up flashing bios allot or overclocking often where a corrupted bios is a possibility.
Just out of curiosity, what are the first and second best ?
So you say you never had issue of slow sata transfers ?

Z77A GD65 - Samsung Green Memory Issue

Hi all,
I have just built my new Ivy Bridge Machine:
MSI Z77A GD65 (BIOS V10.5)
i5 3570K
16GB Samsung Green Memory DDR3 PC3-12800 30nm (4x4GB)
There has been a lot of forum chatter regarding the Samsung Green memory and its incredible overclocking potential. Unfortunately the MSI Z77A GD65 fails to POST at anything above the default 1600MHz. I have tried different RAM timings and increasing the voltage to 1.65V, but nothing got my system to POST.
After doing some forum digging I discovered I am not alone, with other GD65 users having exactly the same problem.
As a result this feels like a BIOS issue with V10.5. Can anyone help?
Cheers,
Matt.

Quote from: Bernhard on 25-May-12, 16:34:48
To OC that RAM higher than 1600 makes virtually no difference to your real performance but adds a lot of potential instabilities. CPU OC yields the real performance gains.
With a Sandy Bridge CPU... I would agree with you.
This is most definitely not the case with Ivy! There are noticeable real-world improvements - if there weren't, I wouldn't be so fussed.
Gigabyte have recognised the similar (same) issue they're suffering with Z77 boards... it's now been a month since anyone replied to me on this issue.
Asus/ASRock do not have this issue - so it's not related to Z77 or the RAM.

Z77a-gd65 intel i5 2500k intel turbo boost

I have just upgraded to z77a-gd65 for my Intel I5 2500 k
16 gb corsair vengeance ram
120 SSD
Be quiet dark rock cooler pro
Seagate HDD 2tb
Tx 750 PSU
MSI r7950 twin f
The problem is the Intel turbo boost is acting strange it is shooting up to 8. GHz which can't be possible.
The other thing is my 12 volt is saying it down to 11.889 ish never had any of these problems with the last motherboard which was a p67a-gd65 b3
And no overclock want to just use oc genie but worried with it saying 8. GHz

I can't remember what the + or - voltage variation is for +12V, but I don't think it is anything to be concerned about. Try a couple other utilities to check the CPU speed and temp/voltages. CPUID's CPU-Z and H/W Monitor are good ones.

MSI Z77A-GD65 No Post

When I first started my new system, I did get a display and entered the BIOS. I changed the boot order to put my optical drive first, put in a live CD, restarted, and got a black screen. I ejected the CD, restarted, and got a black screen again. I didn't get a display again until I disconnected all my drives whereupon I got a map error and was able to get back into the BIOS. A web search indicated this is a bug that occurs when no drives are connected so I reconnected the drives, restarted, and got a black screen again. I disconnected the drives again and restarted but I got a black screen again (no map error this time). I tried connecting my monitor to the graphics card instead of the motherboard and that didn't work. I tried removing the graphics card and video capture card and that didn't work. I tried clearing the CMOS by pushing the button and even removing the battery for several minutes and that didn't work.
Here's where things get weird. I tried testing the RAM by pulling out one stick and the system kept restarting itself: it would turn on then power off a few seconds later then, after a few seconds, start up again, etc. I had to wait till it powered off and quickly pull out the power supply's cord to get it to stop. I removed that stick and put the other one in instead and the same endless loop of restarting happened again. When I put both sticks back in it stopped restarting.
Since I couldn't get into BIOS A, I switched to BIOS B and got a display again. There was no option to restore BIOS A so I was forced to continue using BIOS B. Since my graphics card was removed at this point, I changed the BIOS to IGD instead of PEG for graphics and shut down. I reconnected my drives then restarted and got a display again and entered the BIOS. I changed the boot order to put my optical drive first, put in a live CD, restarted, and got a black screen. I ejected the CD, restarted and got a black screen. I disconnected the drives and restarted hoping I would get a map error and could get back into the BIOS but got a black screen again. I've tried switching back to BIOS A but still can't get a display.
I tested the RAM by putting it in my old desktop one stick at a time, and then both sticks at once, and it worked fine. I installed the optical drive and one of the hard drives into my old desktop and successfully installed and booted linux off of it with the no problems. The second hard drive does appear to be borked and my old desktop froze when I tried to boot with that drive installed. However I've tried starting my new system multiple times without that damaged drive connected and I still get a black screen so I don't see how it could be the problem.
The LED on the motherboard mostly alternates between 19 and 72. It will run through a bunch of codes too quickly to read then pause for a second on 19 (Early South Bridge Initialization) then run through a bunch of codes too quickly to read then pause for a second on 72 (Late South Bridge Initialization) then go back to 19, etc. I've sometimes also seen it pause for a second on 55 (Early Memory Initialization) and 4F (which doesn't appear in the manual).
I'm guessing it has to be the motherboard or CPU but I don't know which. I don't have another motherboard to test the CPU on and no other CPU to test on this motherboard (the old desktop is AMD).
Hardware:
MSI Z77A-GD65 motherboard
Intel Core i5-3570K CPU
G.Skill DDR3-1600 CL9 1.5v 4096MB (x2) RAM (tested in old desktop)
Seagate Barracuda 1TB hard drive (tested in old desktop)
Pioneer BDR-208DBK blu-ray drive (tested in old desktop)
Corsair Obsidian 550D case
Seasonic G Series 550W power supply
Samsung S23B550V monitor (tested with old desktop)
Currently disconnected hardware:
HIS Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition graphics card
Seagate Barracuda 3TB hard drive (believed to be broken)
Black Magic Design Intensity Pro capture card

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Here's where things get weird. I tried testing the RAM by pulling out one stick and the system kept restarting itself: it would turn on then power off a few seconds later then, after a few seconds, start up again, etc. I had to wait till it powered off and quickly pull out the power supply's cord to get it to stop. I removed that stick and put the other one in instead and the same endless loop of restarting happened again. When I put both sticks back in it stopped restarting.
Test each stick in Dimm 2 (2nd from the cpu) Make sure they are installed into DIMMS 2 & 4 (2nd from cpu and last)
Did you try a full cmos clear on Bios A?
If so, you can recover using this guide:
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=160450.0
With the z77a-gd65, you will need to flash bios B to version 10.5. In that version in the security section is a multi bios update. Use that and it will recover bios A.
For bios flashing: >>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<

Bug cpu voltage - Z77A GD65 - V10.5

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