Buying a new Monitor

+*I have a Mac iBook 800 MHz PowerPC G3 with 256 MB SDRAM running Mac OS X Version 10.4.11.+*
+*The Graphics/Displays says the following:*+
ATI Mobility Radeon 7500:
Chipset Model: ATY,RageM7
Type: Display
Bus: AGP
Slot: ATI
VRAM (Total): 32 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x4c57
Revision ID: 0x0000
ROM Revision: 113-XXXXX-207
Displays:
Color LCD:
Display Type: LCD
Resolution: 1024 x 768
Depth: 32-bit Color
Built-In: Yes
Core Image: Not Supported
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Display:
Status: No display connected
+*The monitor output plug hole on the side of the computer is a mini DVI.*+
+*I am thinking of buying an external monitor. A 21.5 in Samsung EX2220x which has both DVI-D input and Dsub input. The latter is labeled RGB-in on the back of the monitor. Its specs are:*+
Display
Screen Size
21.5" Wide
Brightness (Typical)
250 cd/m²
Contrast Ratio (Typical)
MEGA DCR (Typ. 1,000:1)
Resolution
1,920 x 1,080
Response Time (Typical)
5 ms
Viewing Angle (Horizontal/Vertical)
170˚ / 160˚ (CR> 10)
Color Support
16.7 M
Signal input
Video Signal
Analog RGB, DVI
Sync. Signal
Separate H / V, Composite, SOG
Connector
15pin D-SUB, DVI-D
Power
Power Consumption
22 Watts
Stand By Power (DPMS)
<0.3 W
Type
Built-in
Features
Plug & Play
DDC 2B
USB powered hub option
No
Mac compatibility
Yes
Multimedia Speakers
No
Wall-Mount
75 x 75 mm
TCO
TCO'5.0
Cabinet Color
High Glossy Black
Optional Accessories
DVI Cable
Special Features
MagicBright3, MagicEco, MagicAngle, MagicReturn, Off timer, Image Size Color Effect, Customized key, Windows7, DVI with HDCP
+*My question is will my Mac drive this monitor & if so would it be best to connect the computer to the DVI-D or the RGB input?*+
+*If the Mac will not drive the above monitor will it drive my second choice a 20 in Acer X203HBD which has both a DVI w/HDCP and a VGA input. Its specs are:*+
TFT Technology
TN
Image
Image brightness
300 cd/m2
Image Contrast Ratio
10000:1 (dynamic)
Max horizontal view angle
170
Max vertical view angle
160
Display
Diagonal Size
20 in - Widescreen
Dot Pitch / Pixel Pitch
0.276 mm
Max Resolution
1600 x 900 / 60 Hz
Color Support
24-bit (16.7 million colors)
Max Sync Rate (V x H)
75 Hz x 80 KHz
Response Time
5 ms
Signal Input
DVI-D, VGA
Features
HDCP
Video Input
Analog Video Signal
RGB
Digital Video Standard
Digital Visual Interface (DVI)
Expansion / Connectivity
Interfaces
1 x VGA - 15 pin HD D-Sub (HD-15) , 1 x DVI-D - 24 pin digital DVI
+*My question is will my Mac drive this monitor & if so would it be best to connect the computer to the DVI or the RGB input?*+
Thank you for your help.

If the monitor has a VGA input, as it appears it does, and will support 1024x768, then you could use it, but it would be a waste of a 22" monitor. Without hacking your iBook an external monitor will only mirror the internal screen (the iBooks do not officially support extended desktop mode which allows you to have different things on the two screens) and at 1024x768, far below the monitor's native resolution, things will be quite fuzzy.
Regards.

Similar Messages

DULL colors only on Adobe photoshop CS2 after buying a new monitor

Hi,
I'm hoping someone can help me!
Recently I bought a new widescreen LG monitor L206WTQ - which I had plugged in and installed the drivers etc etc! The screen works fine.
I decided to open up my Adobe photoshop CS2 for the first time, to do some photoshopping (also to see what adobe would look like on my new monitor) ...and when I opened the my adobe, a error message popped up saying something like "your monitor 'LG monitor L206WTQ' is defected ... ..." - Now because I wasnt too sure what the message mean't, I just closed the message window and continued to work on adobe - which actually seemed to be running fine - only untill i relized that I could not get the true color WHITE on my color palete!
I searched google for the problem and to my amazement ... I found a forum that answered my question. The forum told me to go to CONTROL PANEL > DISPLAY > COLOR MANAGEMENT > and then once I was here, click ADD to add the AdobeRGB1998.icc file and set it as the default color profile.
I accepted these settings and opened up my Adobe to find that it WORKED ... I could get the true color white again.
BUT! ... now I have found another problem and this is where I need your help. I was searching for photographs on my computer to photoshop on Adobe and when i opened up an image on adobe ... I noticed that the color of the photo is SLIGHTLY DULL compared to the original - Almost as though Adobe made the image a little less brighter. I double clicked on the photo in my MY DOCUMENTS FOLDER, so that i could compare the image to the one on adobe and I was right ... the image did look a bit more dull on Adobe. I thought maybe it was that particular image but every photo I open up on a Adobe now, becomes slightly dull.
Strangely enough ... when I edit a photo in Adobe and save it under these "dull" conditions ... and open the edited image in my MY DOCUMENTS folder, the images color is back to normal!
Why do all my images get this 'dull' condition only when I view / open them up in adobe???
I can't find a forum that has an answer to my question and I'm just hoping one of you experts can help me out, thanks in advance!!

Dale,
Photoshop is colour managed. This means when sending RGB to the monitor it uses a profile that describes the monitor's behaviour.
In order to display colours properly it has to change the RGB values sent to that specific monitor. The device profile is a set of offset values that is typical for that one monitor.
Your current profile probably belongs to your previous monitor. Recalibrate an profile your monitor.
Read this:
http://www.computer-darkroom.com
Rob

Where can I find a new monitor for my older MacBook Pro 13.3" laptop?

Any help for finding a place to buy a new monitor for my older Apple Pro 13.3?

Do you need a new screen? Visit ifixit.com.
Clinton

I need a new monitor

Can anyone give me some advice on buying a new monitor? My Apple 17" has sadly died and looking for a 19" screen. I have been advised to go for a Samson but with so many brands Im a bit confused about which way to go... Also do I go for a VGA or DVI input? My graphics card is a a radeon 9600 pro-hope some one can help

John
I was using two large vga monitors for video editing cause I thought they mimic tv colour more closely.
two monitors has its advantages and disadvantages, I still use dual leds on my pc - great for when you have to compare documents and ultimately you get more "real estate" BUT an individual ap (or picture) can only be as large as one screen....
ok, you can set it so you stretch an app across two screens but thats really not kewl IMO.
So I got a 24in Acer for the Mac. It allows me to have FCP (or apps that have small characters) to use the whole screen
I got Acer model. X243w. Im my brief research, I thought this was the best bang for the buck and Im happy with it.
M/

New Monitor Woes

Hey all
So we lost power this weekend and I had to haul my editing rig (a 1,1 Mac Pro, ATI 5770... yeah, it's a little long in the tooth but dang thing keeps on working!) out to a friends house so I could keep working. I figured it would be easier to just buy a new monitor (and I've been planning on doing that for awhile) than disassemble my old monitors and haul them.
So I found this guy on sale at Best Buy: Samsung - C750 Series 27" LED HD Monitor (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung---C750-Series-27%26%2334%3B-LED-HD-Monitor/8 585136.p?id=1218879338068&skuId=8585136)
Basic details are thus:
3000:1 contrast ratio
300 cd/m² brightness
Displays up to 16.7 million colors
1920 x 1080 resolution
Digital (2 HDMI) and standard analog VGA inputs
And I plugged it into my ATI Radeon HD 5770 using a DVI to HDMI cable and I mean, the thing is just stunning to behold. Bright and beautiful.
So here's why I'm here posting: It's at it's highest setting (full 1080) and I'm noticing that while most stuff looks really great text is not very smooth. I've exhaustively gone through the settings to see if I'm missing something but now that I'm back on my Macbook Pro here at work I can really see the difference (and it's not a Retina screen). I can take some screen shot comparisons when I get home. Granted this is how it was on my older monitors but I figured it was because they were several years old and had a lower resolution. Is it a graphics card thing? Can the ATI not render text as well as the NVIDIA in my 2009 MacBook Pro? I'm running Lion FWIW.
So am I missing something here? Anyone have any ideas? I have 15 days to take this thing back and while I could live with the less than perfect text I figure if I'm going to plunk down several hundred bucks for this I should make sure this is the best I can do. Anyone with ideas or thoughts, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!

27" and you need dual link on DVI side or the MDP but realize that a true 27" is much higher resolution than your LCD HDMT "Monitor" Display was.I find the 23-24" inch is fine on HP but larger and I have to move my head and look around just that much more.
Apple Mini DisplayPort adapters: Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3382
Guide to Apple graphic display adapters needed
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT3235
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT3235
Atlona (Dual Link) DVI to Mini DisplayPort Converter for Apple 27-inch LED and 27-inch iMac
http://www.atlona.com/Atlona-Dual-Link-DVI-to-Mini-DisplayPort-Converter-USB-Pow ered.html
http://www.atlona.com/Atlona-Dual-Link-DVI-to-Mini-DisplayPort-Converter-USB-Pow ered.html
Mac Pro (Early 2009), Mac Pro (Mid 2010), Mac Pro (Mid 2012): Issues with three displays and multiple DVI, HDMI connections
It's not the USB data that is needed to run three displays. It's the extra POWER. If you read the Apple article, they say the only solution they endorse is their US$100 Dual-Link adapters. Check the table at the end of the article.
Mac Pro (Early 2009), Mac Pro (Mid 2010): Supported display configurations

Macbook 5.5 compatability with new monitors

i have a macbook pro 5.5, i believe. want to buy a new monitor, need to understand which are compatible. thanks

I'm really sad :-((
I've made the SMC reset (Thanks Jay), but today starting with 100% charge, after 32 min my MacBook died...
Restarting with the power adaptor linked the charge was at 64%
Below the informations (Thanks Lyssa) about my Computer and my Battery (in Italian):
Informazioni batteria: (BATTERY INFORMATIONS)
Informazioni sul modello:
Numero di serie: 9G8510HH13NYB
Produttore: DP
Nome dispositivo: bq20z951
Pack Lot Code: 0000
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Versione firmware: 002a
Revisione hardware: 0005
Revisione cella: 0100
Informazioni sulla carica:
Carica restante (mAh): 1450
Carica completa: No
In carica: Sì
Capacità a carica completa (mAh): 1995
Informazioni sulle condizioni della batteria:
Conteggio cicli: 301
Condizione: Controlla batteria
Batteria installata: Sì
Amperaggio (mA): 565
Voltaggio (mV): 12266
Impostazioni d’alimentazione del sistema:
Corrente alternata (AC):
Timer per la messa in stop del sistema (minuti): 10
Timer per la messa in stop del disco (minuti): 10
Timer per la messa in stop del monitor (minuti): 10
Riavvio automatico in caso di perdita di energia: No
Riattiva se cambia la corrente alternata: No
Riattiva aprendo lo schermo: Sì
Riattiva se connesso a LAN: No
Fonte di alimentazione attuale: Sì
Lo stop del monitor usa l'attenuazione di luminosità: Sì
Batteria:
Timer per la messa in stop del sistema (minuti): 15
Timer per la messa in stop del disco (minuti): 10
Timer per la messa in stop del monitor (minuti): 10
Riattiva se cambia la corrente alternata: No
Riattiva aprendo lo schermo: Sì
Lo stop del monitor usa l'attenuazione di luminosità: Sì
Riduci la luminosità: Sì
Configurazione hardware:
UPS installata: No
Informazioni sul dispositivo di ricarica CA:
Collegato: Sì
ID: 0x0100
Wattaggio (W): 60
Revisione: 0x0000
Famiglia: 0x00ba
Numero di serie: 0x00e155d0
In carica: Sì
------------------------------

Do the new monitors come with a built in microphone??

Since buying the new monitor from Apple recently, I have tried facetiming with friends and recently, a friend couldn't hear me. Does that mean the new monitors don't have a built in microphone?? If they do, why couldn't my friend hear me?

If you purchased the Apple Thunderbolt Display, it has a microphone built in, go into your system preferences click on the sound icon select input the select your monitor.

I need advice on buying a new computer and monitor.

Without going into huge detail, I am ready to buy a new desktop for my photography hobby. I am still running
CS3 (hoping that will work with Windows 7?), Corel Paint Shop Pro X (yeah, I know I have really old software, but I
don't feel the need to upgrade just yet), Picasa, and all the software that comes with my Canon 40D. I take all my pics in
.raw and then edit/convert. I have a 1 terabyte eternal drive where I store my photos, but editing from that source is S-L-O-W.
Someone mentioned on another site something about aneSata drive. Need more info. (I want an easy way to backup my
photos monthly, because I have a fear of someone breaking in my home, stealing my pc and then all my photos are gone.
With the external drive, I can put it in my safe deposit box.)
I want a monitor (preferably not widescreen) that will be accurate with color and not have a glare, maybe 20" or so. I print photos at home on my HP Photosmart printer, but I also have some printed professionally. I would like recommendations on monitor calibration gadgets/software
so that what I see is very close to what will print.
This computer will have MSOffice 2010 on it. Will have quite a few other softwares on it that are currently on my old pc.
We don't watch movies on the PC or do any gaming so the video card will mainly be used for photography and some light video use. We do skype.
Would like to stay in the range of $1500-2000 if possible. I've basically purchased Dell's in the past due to the ease of designing my system,
but I have had two lemons and am certainly not tied to Dell.
I know I want a wireless mouse/keyboard. Currently have Dell Speakers 5/1, which are decent enough for my use, as long as I can connect them to my
new PC.
Thanks for good advice!! (And I want this PC to last me about 5 years so I would guess I need at least 8 g ram, 3.5 GHz processor, preferably Intel.
Also want 4 or more USB ports on the front or side, as my PC location is not suitable to use the back ports easily.) Thank you!

picture-me wrote:
Would like to stay in the range of $1500-2000 if possible.
I've taken quite a "non-standard" approach to this... a little while back I purchased a powerful Dell Precision T5400 workstation that's come off lease from eBay, then populated it with good hardware. Result? Dual quad core Xeon 3.16 GHz 16 GB system with 3 TB of internal RAID disk storage and a good modern video card for about $1500. This is a system that would have sold new for probably $6,000 just a few years ago.
I didn't have to buy any of the external stuff (monitor, backup drives, keyboard/mouse, etc.) because I upgraded from an existing workstation and was able to re-use all that stuff, plus one 1 TB drive from the old system - which I then sold for $700 to recoup some of the cost (total outlay was then only $800).
I describe the system and how I put it together in some detail here:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/827500
This is a far more powerful system than anything I could get new for the same price.
Just a quick glance at eBay and I see that some T5500 workstations are becoming available for reasonable prices now. I see, for example, a dual quad system with 12 GB of RAM for a Buy It Now price of a hair over $1000.
-Noel

I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money? Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound? Will I need adaptors and a interface?

Can anybody help?
I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money?
Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound?
Will I need adaptors and an interface?
Also, I am guessing as Logic only runs on MAC surely then they would not the best spec to recommend to run it?
I see all the upgrades as additional memory or a faster process?
Is a retina screen necessary, and why flash based storage against a 1TB hard drive, and a i5 instead of an i7
The main reason for this purchase is to play live and use backing tracks and record found sounds and make creative songs.
I hope you can provide some valuable feedback, as I am a longtime MAC user and see upgrades and changes happen regularly but the most important thing is the songs not the equipment.
I have £500 already and willing to add another 500 to 700 pounds, then software extra.

Can anybody help?
I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money?
Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound?
Will I need adaptors and an interface?
Also, I am guessing as Logic only runs on MAC surely then they would not the best spec to recommend to run it?
I see all the upgrades as additional memory or a faster process?
Is a retina screen necessary, and why flash based storage against a 1TB hard drive, and a i5 instead of an i7
The main reason for this purchase is to play live and use backing tracks and record found sounds and make creative songs.
I hope you can provide some valuable feedback, as I am a longtime MAC user and see upgrades and changes happen regularly but the most important thing is the songs not the equipment.
I have £500 already and willing to add another 500 to 700 pounds, then software extra.

I have 4 vertical stripes across the entire height of my monitor. Do I have to buy a new imac? e

I have 4 vertical stripes across the entire height of my monitor, the stripes are there even before I log on. My 17" imac is 6 years old. Do I have to buy a new computer?

Frequent problem on 2006 17" imac!
Most of the time, it's a defective LCD panel.
To validate if it is the LCD panel or the graphic card, you can take a screen shot (cmd+Shift+3) and see if the problem is visible on the screen shot.
If it is not visible, then it's most likely the LCD panel.
This can be confirmed by connecting an external display to your iMac.
If it works well, then it's the LCD panel that is defective.
Does it look like this?

I have 1 GB RAM on an '07 MacBook Pro. 1) How do I check remaining memory? 2) I have Microsoft office 2004 - do I need to buy more RAM to upgrade to '11? 3) I need a new battery ... Is it worth the $$ to buy a new battery, RAM and Microsoft office 2011?

I have a MacBook Pro from '07 with 1 GB of memory. The battery is shot and my AppleCare has run out. I just upgraded the OS to 10.6.8. But a few questions:
1 - How do I even check how much memory I have left on this computer?
2 - How do I check how many battery cycles are left?
3 - I want to upgrade to Microsoft Office '11 because I don't have Adobe Acrobat to creat pdf's and I need to be able to do this for school... Instead of buying acrobat, I figured I would just upgrade to Office '11 because I can generate pdf's from Word. Roughly how much RAM does Office '11 take up?
4 - Does Apple still make batteries for this computer (from '07)? How much do they cost?
5 - How much does 1 more GB of memory cost?
AND lastly -- is it even worth it to spend the $ on more RAM, a new battery and Office '11?
Or does it make more sense to just get a new computer entirely? (trying to avoid this).
ANY help would be sooo appreciated! Thanks.

1 - How do I even check how much memory I have left on this computer?
If you're asking how to check to see if you need more RAM, open Activity Monitor and go to the System Memory tab, then compare page outs and page ins. If page outs is 10% or more of page ins, you probably need more RAM.
2 - How do I check how many battery cycles are left?
There's no limit on the number of battery cycles, it's just that the more cycles you've used the more "worn out" your battery gets. You've got a 4-year-old machine, and if it's still got the original battery, it's probably about time for a replacement battery. You can check battery health using System Profiler... look at the Power section under Hardware.
3 - I want to upgrade to Microsoft Office '11 because I don't have Adobe Acrobat to creat pdf's and I need to be able to do this for school... Instead of buying acrobat, I figured I would just upgrade to Office '11
You don't need Office 2011 to create PDFs. Any application capable of printing can create PDFs on a Mac. Just choose File -> Print, but instead of clicking the Print button in the print dialog, click the PDF button and choose Save As PDF in the menu that appears.
4 - Does Apple still make batteries for this computer (from '07)? How much do they cost?
5 - How much does 1 more GB of memory cost?
I'll "ditto" sig's answers to these.
AND lastly -- is it even worth it to spend the $ on more RAM, a new battery and Office '11?
Or does it make more sense to just get a new computer entirely? (trying to avoid this).
If Office 2004 is still working fine for you, stick with that and don't incur the costs of Office 2011. As to the RAM, only add more if the test I mentioned above indicates that you need it. If you buy more RAM when you don't really need it, you won't see much (if any) performance improvement. That just leaves the battery... and if the machine is still doing what you need it to do and you don't really need a new machine for anything, you could definitely buy a new battery and get a few more years out of it.

Thinking to buy a new 15inch macbook pro retina display. Aim to use it for video editing and compositing... Is ıt worth for it?

Hi... I am a freelance filmmaker. Now I have 2008 model mac pro and I am thinking to buy a new macbook pro 15 inch retina display. Do you think its worth for it? I aim to use the macbook mainly for video editing, video compositing (after effects) and photo editing. My current old mac pro has 12 GB and the graphics card is ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT 256 MB (Yes I still use it). My main question is, do you think its better to move to macbook pro or upgrading the old one? Making it 32 GB of RAM and buy a new NVIDIA cuda capable graphic card? I dont have enough budget to make it together... Want to hear your suggestions...

I'm not sure, I've seen pro animators use MBPs but usually with a large monitor. Especially doing video editing, compositing and editing it might make more sense to upgrade the Mac Pro to an SSD as the boot drive. What kind of CPU setup is in your Pro?
Check these out:
mac pro SSD upgrades?
SSD as system disk while users folder + data on HDD
Early 2008 8-Core Mac Pro GPU Upgrades
I deal exclusively with OWC. I'd call them and walk them through your system and see what they say.
What you do takes a lot of CPU, RAM, graphics and boot disk power.
I've upgraded my two computers to SSDs and the first thing I noticed was that Photoshop CS6 opens in 7 seconds vrs. 50 seconds when the application was on a HDD.

I want to buy a new Macbook Pro yet keep iPhoto 9...

Hi folks,
I have what is - for me - a complicated question here. I will try to explain with a minimum of words yet still get the pertinent info in. I really couldn't find the exact right forum to put it in!
So, as background, I had an early-2008 Macbook that died and was replaced with a unibody white Macbook (a few weeks ago, so pre-iLife '11). So, that left me with the new unibody Macbook, with all of my data on it, and a USB hard drive with a Time Machine backup on it that is configured to the dead, early-2008 Macbook.
I don't want to keep the unibody plastic Macbook as I want a Firewire drive and an external battery monitor, both of which I had on my previous Macbook. I would like to buy a Macbook Pro which will give me back those things.
BUT, I don't want iPhoto '11, because I e-mail photos from Apple Mail all the time, and the templates won't work for me. I would prefer iPhoto '09 (which I have on my unibody plastic Macbook).
If I buy a new MBP, I know it will come with iLife '11. What I want to know is, can I start up the new MBP, NOT do migration assistant, and then somehow get iPhoto 9 on it and THEN do migration assistant? So that I end up with i-Life '11 for everything but iPhoto? If so, how do I do that?
Then my second question is how to handle the data on my USB backup harddrive. It has a Time Machine backup from my dead, early-2008 Macbook which was running Leopard and iLife 08, plus, as I now understand, it is "keyed" to the dead Macbook. (I think in future I will use Super Duper and make backups that way and not with Time Machine, but I need to get over this hump.)
I called the Apple store and they suggested I erase my USB backup and start over from the unibody plastic Macbook, but as that would have left me with NO backup temporarily, I just couldn't bring myself to do that. Now of course if I buy a new MBP, I will temporarily have three hard drives (unibody plastic, new MBP, and backup drive), so I think I could get things all settled and keep two copies of info at all times. But I have not pulled the trigger on the MBP because of the new iLife '11 and my not wanting the new iPhoto.
Sorry this is so complicated. But of course that's why I need some help in figuring it out!
Stixer
PS: I have not used the unibody plastic Macbook yet, and I have a friend who would like to buy it from me. Meanwhile I'm limping along on an ANCIENT ibook. I don't ever want to see another beachball

I realized I still had this as an open question, so I thought I would follow up. By calling around, I was able to locate a Macbook Pro that still had ILife 09, so I bought that.
But then I found out I could actually continue on with Ilife 08, but just wiping the new computer and reinstalling the first disc (system) but not the second one (ilife). So then when I used a Time Machine backup from my old computer to migrate to the new one, it simply continued on with O8. This made me even happier as I really was trying to avoid Faces in iPhoto 09.
Thank you for the input (I did read it back when you posted it; I just did not realize I needed to "close" the question.)

I just upgraded to Maverick on my2 year old Macbook Pro and it has slowed down the computer terribly. All I see is that whirling circle every time I do anything. How do I go back to old OS. Terrible upgrade -- forces you to buy a new Mac!!!!

I just upgrade to Maverick on my 2 year old MacBook Pro and it has slowed down the computer terribly. All I see every time I do anything is that crazy circle going round and round. I don't recommend you upgrading. How do I get rid of it. I believe it forces you to buy a new macbook!!!!

It does not. First things first have you tried restarting?
Try restting PRAM
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
Try booting up in Safe Mode
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1455
Also open "activity monitor" and look and see what is using a lot of processing power.

Buying a new Plasmsa - want to use my mac on it - Please Help....

Hello,
I am pretty new to Apple Mac's and so am a bit of a novice. I have a Macbook Pro laptop. I am about to buy a new HD ready Plasma TV for my living room and would like to know the following?
1. Will it be possible for me to have the display on my Macbook shown (either wired or wirelessly) on a plasma tv?
2. If so how would this be acchieved? What sort of adapters/cables would I need. (idealy I would like it to be wireless).
3. If it is possible what sort of spec TV do I need. Any make/model recomendations welcome.
4. My "dream" is to be able to view my iphoto's and i'movies on my tv screen. *** well as play my Itunes through the Tv and use my macbook as a DVD player. I would also like to beable to surf the web via my macbook but have it showning on the tv. Is this a pipe dream or can it be done?
Thanks in advance....

I use my Toshiba 42 inch Plasma TV as a monitor with my MacBook Core 2 Duo. I bought a mini DVI to VGA converter and a VGA cable and it hooks into a VGA input on my TV.I also wired it into my home theater speaker system It is great for internet and even better for movies but as soon as my Apple TV arrives (early March) I won't need it for that anymore. I just bought a used MDD dual 867MHz processor G4 and I plan to hook it to the TV when I get it and use the MacBook with the Apple TV only after that. Bottom line it will work great and as long as you don't leave a fixed image on the screen for an hour or longer you don't have to worry about screen burn. That's what screen savers were made for after all. Yes an LCD is a better choice if you are only going to use it as a computer monitor (but I doubt that's the case) but nothing beats a Plasma (for my eyes) for HD movies. Best Wishes, I'm sure you'll love it. Theres nothing like surfing the web on a really large screen!

Buying a new Monitor

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