Cannot remove Pantone Color in INDCS3

We had this problem in CS2 in the past. Running WIN XP, Creative Suite, all updates. Several old CS/CS2 files have embedded color that we cannot remove. It is not being used anywhere in the file. We have inx'ed the file without any result.
A while ago there was a work around. We don't want to copy every element into a new document because they are lengthly.
HELP -- We are desperate.
KPanthen, Albany, NY

Hi Ken,
If the PMS color really isn't in use, there is hope. It probably came in with an imported graphic that is no longer there and is just being stubborn, but open up the separations preview and turn off all the other plates, zoom out to see the whole pasteboard, and scroll through the document to see if anything shows up, just to be sure.
If it really isn't there, make a new document and define a new swatch with exactly the same name as the one that won't delete, but don't use the real PMS spot color -- define it as a process color instead. The actual definition is irrelevant.
Combine the new file and the problem file in a "book" and set the new file as the synchronization source, then synchronize the colors. You should now be able to delete the swatch, and throw away the new file.
Peter

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    where did you install the color books? they should have the extension  .acb
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  • Mesh tool and pantone colors.

    Hello,
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    [IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b338/Aetza/drop.png[/IMG]
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    function(){return A.apply(null,[this].concat($A(arguments)))}
    Also, I have no knowledge of printstuff.
    And because of that, others here are trying to help you avoid getting yourself into trouble. Before anyone actually starts charging money for doing design or prep work for commercial print, they really should consider it their responsibilty to (what a concept!) actually be at least familiar with the printing process. Otherwise, if you present yourself as a for-print designer, you really are defrauding the customer.
    Take a course at the local tech school; work part time in a press room for peanuts, just to learn. At the very least, get someone to give you a functional tour of a press room whenever you can.
    It's not rocket science; it's mostly just simple mehanics. But it is also not just a simple matter of re-purposing your RGB web work. (In fact, that's backward; usually you should design for print first and then repurpose for web.)
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    In short, the printing world is chock-full of very bad relationships between angry designers who think they know what they're doing (often these days just because they've been doing some design work for the web) and printing houses who know they don't. Trust me: You don't need that stigma. A print designer should consider it a matter of necessity to develop very strong relationships with printing houses, based on mutual professional respect. Without that, you really won't be competitive, no matter how artfully talented you consider yourself.
    function(){return A.apply(null,[this].concat($A(arguments)))}
    But it really is a pantone
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    When designing a file intended for color-separation (i.e.; mass printing), your concern is whether it will be printed in spot color or process color (or, in some cases, a combination of both). In order for your file to color-separate correctly, you have to build it correctly.
    And color separation is not the only issue; there are other issues that affect whether the job prints correctly, such as trapping and total ink density.  For example, spot color is by its nature less forgiving when you neglect the matter of trapping.
    All printing is a matter of production economy. In the matter of process vs. spot color, several practical factors come into play, including the paper type, the specific press which will run the job, and even the nature of the artwork itself (ex: line-art vs. continuous-tone, tightness of the color registration, and others).
    When designing for color-separated print, don't think in terms of "colors"; think in terms of real-world, physical inks. Basically, Your job is to deliver to the printing house a file which contains one image per ink--especially with spot color (i.e.; what far too many people think of as synonomous with "Pantone"). Don't think of a spot color as a "color"; think of it as an ink.
    Offset presses have a separate ink well for each ink that will be printed. Each ink hits the paper at a different time as the sheet passes through the press. At the typical small-to-medium printing house, bread & butter jobs like business cards are usually run on smallish presses. Those are seldom more than 4-color presses, and are often 2-color presses. If, in your artwork, the number of separation colors exceeds then number of ink wells on the specific press, the job cannot be printed in one pass; the paper has to be re-run to apply the full number of inks and that entails another press set-up operation--which you pay for.
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    If you've read and seriously considered the above, you'll understand that, by and large, it is rarely practical (cost efficient) to design a piece containing more than three spot colors. As soon as you need more than three colors, you should be considering 4-color (CMYK) process.
    (Higher-end printing is frequently done involving more than four inks; it is not uncommon for sheetfed work to be process-plus-1 or process-plus-2 spot inks. Multi-pass jobs can involve foils, metallic inks, and varnishes. But such "glitzy" printing is knowingly extravagant and is still carefully prepared for to maximize economy within the requirements. Although it certainly can be, such extravagance is not usually the kind of thing used for the typical business card project.)
    JET

  • Pantone Colors with CMYK Colors?

    Dear all!
    I am LUCK. I am wondering about Pantone Colors with CMYK Colors. It's that I got 1 Pantone Color from my customer and then I changed it to the equivalent CMYK Color. Will I get different colors when changing from Pantone to CMYK because I will print with CMYK Printing Process? Anyway, I am wondering whether the Pantone color is the fix and specific color or not. I mean when I print the Pantone Color, I will get the same result as I print before. Is it right?
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    Pantone is a company, not a color. Pantone produces spot color inks, process color inks, and color references.
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    I often find Pantone's spot-to-process recommendations to be unsatisfactory, and use my own CMYK approximations instead. This is not necessarily due to any failure or shortcoming of the Pantone libraries, but just differences that exist in specific printing houses and workflows. The printing process is full of variables.
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    Yes, the colors will be different. But whether the difference is noticable depends upon the specific spot ink you are trying to match. It also depends upon the specific use of the color. Fact is, human color perception is very adaptive. Colors that are "mathematically" equivilant according to some colorimetric algorithm are not necessarily perceived as equivilant by human eyes, because much depends upon environment (adjacent colors, etc.)
    You can refer to a printed process color reference against which you can compare a printed spot color swatch book and judge for yourself which CMYK values best approximate the spot color. Or, you  can set up simple test sheet of your own, and have it printed to determine a "best match" in a particular printing environment.
    All the above is just one reason why contract proofs are still important. If your customer is very picky about his spot color, then he needs to understand that converting it to CMYK is merely an approximation, and perfect matching is simply not possible. That's one reason why spot inks exist in the first place. If he is not willing to pay for five-color printing, then he will likely have to settle for a minor compromise.
    JET

  • Mesh gradients using pantone colors

    Hi,
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    Mark,
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    Continuous-Tone Artwork (often called "contone"): Anything involving varying percentages of a given ink, be it a "grayscale" gradauation of a single ink or graduation involving two or more inks.
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    Now put this in the context of screen printing:
    All artwork involving  tints or continuous tone requires halftoning. Compared to offset lithography, screen printing is very limited in its ability to handle halftoning. Many small local screen printing shops can't do halftoning at all. Typical medium-size screen printing shops (local T-shirt shops, etc.) can often do halftoning at a very course frequency (i.e.; large dots), often no smaller than 30~50 Lines Per Inch (LPI), and both color fidelity and sharpness suffer. Only larger and more sophisticated screen printing shops, running expensive, high-end automated equipment utilizing very fine screen mesh fabrics can reliably hold small halftone dots and consistently maintain color.
    Bottom line: The way you prepare artwork for screen printing is highly dependent upon the kind of shop that will be doing the printing.
    Screen printing is done on a wide variety of materials (substrates). Substrates are quite often not white. They are often dark. So spot color inks designed for screen printing are usually very opaque. That puts them in a whole other world from the almost-always translucent inks of offset lithography, AND from the real world that Illustrator's interface is capable of simulating. Illustrator does not provide any means by which to specify the real-world opacity of a Spot Color Swatch. So when you use blends, grads, and overprinting, Illustrator cannot do a good job of simulating what you will actually see in the final screen printed results.
    Bottom Line: If you are building continuous-tone artwork involving blends, grads, tints, etc. (i.e.; anything requiring halftoning) and/or overprinting, you need some real-world experience to reasonably well anticipate how your halftoned artwork is going to look when printed. Best advice is to start simple. Design around your limitations, and those of the screen shop you will be using. Limit your designs to spot colors and entirely line art.
    Now to your specific questions:
    I'm struggling to create gradients for screen printing purposes.
    Grads are going to require halftoning. Have you asked your screen printer what halftone frequency (LPI) he is able to reliably hold?
    The artwork will be printed on 12oz canvas using 3-4 pantone spot colors.
    Understand: Pantone is a company. The Pantone company publishes its own standardized formulae for its own branded inks, which are offset lithography inks, not silkscreen inks. In other words, it's just a commonly-used color reference. You would be better off refering to actual color swatches of the actual screen printing inks your screen printer will be using. Set up your Spot Color Swatches in Illustrator corresponding to the actual inks.
    1) if I fill an object with a single Pantone color, create a mesh gradient from it...
    Always state WHAT VERSION of Illustrator you are using. Grad mesh did not always support spot colors. Blends still don't.
    ...using a variety of different opacity settings, say 100%, 50% and 25%...
    Don't confuse "opacity" with "tints." What Illustrator calls "opacity" and "transparency" usually involves rasterization and/or conversion to process color.
    ... then play around with the mesh handles to produce a pleasant, mixed background, will a gradient of this type work for screen printing?
    It will work for screen printing IF:
    The particular screen printing setup adequately supports halftoning.
    The mesh is built appropriately for the color separation model (spot, process, or process-plus-spot) that will be used to print it. Again, you have to be aware of the number of INKS that you are designing for, and make sure your design does not require more than that when it is color-separated (think "ink-separated").
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    I don't know if a gradient of this type will require halftones, as a linear or radial gradient would.
    Based on the above, you should now know that. Yes, ANYTHING that involves graduated color requires (at least a simulation of) "graduated ink". Since "graduated ink" does not exist, halftoning (or some other kind of tone screening--there are others) is required in order to simulate it.
    2) it's my understanding that when you prepare artwork for screen printing using spot colors, each color should be on its own layer.
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