CCFL Bulb

From what I know from most Apple Portables....It has a CCFL Bulb...My problem is this...I have a Macbook and it seems that the this CCFL bulb is not turning itself on whenever I try to start the Macbook. In other words I have a dim background. I know how to replace CCFL bulbs in dell computers but not savy when it comes to Mac.
I think they're the same right?
Another question? My Macbook has a limited one year warranty... Will that affect it? Is this a hardware issue???

If there is something wrong you should have apple fix it. The warranty will be void if you try to do this yourself. That item should be covered, check apple support.
Mort

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T60p ccfl conversion to LED?

My T60p 14.1" sxga CCFL needs to be changed. Symptoms are reddish hue at start that turns whiter then just under a minute later the screen goes dark. Images are there when I shine a flashlight on the screen. External monitor works fine. I took a chance and replaced the inverter board with a brand new one with correct FRU 41W1010. $10 incl shipping. Still no go.
So it is either buy a used complete (correct "id") panel with hinges etc, buy just the lcd panel with hopefully correct "id", or replace the CCFL bulb. The less expensive that these 3 options get, the more work involved. The first 2 option I just might wind up with a worn out CCFL in near future.
Then I saw some youtube vids of LED conversions. The LED kits are almost as expensive as a brand new ccfl panel (new panels - perhaps they need to be "programmed" to work with my T60p?).
I did see a thread on another forum about panel LED conversion kits with a link from a Chinese website. No idea what the site says although the prices seem cheap. But also no idea if it includes whatever power inverter/converter gizmo is needed by an LED strip.
Comments? Advice? Links to LED conversion parts &/or kits?

One word of advice: DON'T
By opening up the panel and removing the CCFL you are creating a *huge* opportunity for the dust to get within the layers of the LCD which is not a pretty sight.
Swap the screen with a newer one and call it a day.
Cheers,
George
In daily use: R60F, R500F, T61, T410
Collecting dust: T60
Enjoying retirement: A31p, T42p,
Non-ThinkPads: Panasonic CF-31 & CF-52, HP 8760W
Starting Thursday, 08/14/2014 I'll be away from the forums until further notice. Please do NOT send private messages since I won't be able to read them. Thank you.

When to replace CCFL's?

I have an Aluminum ACD that I purchased in 2004. The monitor seems a little dim to me overall, not in just one place. On average, how long should the CCFL bulbs last and what's the bet way to determine if they need to be replaced?

If it is still uniform across the entire display, and the colors haven't shifted, don't change anything. My Apple display is still fine after nearly 8 years. Replacing the lamps is not easy or cheap. Finding the right tubes is not easy.

HDX18T Monitor Goes Black

For the past week or so, I've had to move the power plug around to get the laptop to charge. I determined that it's not the cable, but is the internal part. Today, when I opened the lid to bring the laptop out of sleep mode, my desktop displayed for a second or two, and then went blank. I've re-started several times, removed the battery and held the power button, but it doesn't help. Originally, it would go blank as soon as Windows started to load, so I tried Safe Mode, with the same result. Now, when I turn on the laptop, I might see the HP logo and/or the blinking cursor, and then the screen goes black.
I hooked it up to an external monitor, which worked, until I tried to uninstall the display driver, in hopes that it would correct itself, now I don't get anything on the external monitor either.
I suspect that it must be the graphics card, but not sure. One other thing that happened occasionally, if I bumped the side of the laptop, near the HDMI and USB ports on the left side of the laptop, against something metal, the screen would go black for a split second. Seemed like an electric short.
Thank you for any help you can provide. I'm okay with replacing parts, although not my favorite. I did replace the keyboard with the lighted keyboard a year ago.

That's too bad that the lamps are gone, but here are some alternatives.
http://www.laptopscreen.com/English/currency/USD/laptop-part-number/HP-Compaq/HP%20HDX%20X18-1000EO/
http://cgi.ebay.com/18-4-LCD-Screen-Dual-Lamp-CCFL-Bulb-HP-HDX-X18-1114TX-/150610885160?pt=LH_Defaul...
http://www.ameytech.com/data/ebay/kanni007/images/ccfl/instructions/ccfl-installation-instructions1....
The new screen is probably the best way to go, but removing it from the bezel is a challenge, after the hinges are removed, the screen is still held in there with this double sides sticky tape. If you use a very hot hair drier, starting at one of the upper corners, the adhesive can be softened enough to begin prying the bezel away from the screen. It takes awhile for the hair dryer to soften the adhesive so give yourself lots of time for this procedure.
When the new screen is installed it's very difficult to get every last crumb of debris out from under the bezel, so keep this in mind.
Another option is to replace the bulbs, I tried this ounce on an old screen that I didn't care about and it did not go well. I could not separate the parts that were taped together without damaging them. This would be the least expensive way to go if you can remove the bulbs.
I am also assuming that it's the 1920 X 1080 screen with the dual lamp arrangement _ some of them used screen with lower resolution with one CCFL lamp. (Yours is probably the dual lamp assembly)
There is also a used complete screen assembly available on e-bay, but eventually it may succumb to you fate in a few days or a few years, there is no way of knowing.
The part number for the complete display assembly is 498166-001 and it is available from HP, but it's expensive.
http://h20141.www2.hp.com/Hpparts/Search_Results.aspx?mscssid=F747349FA1494EEDA36B3303FEC30A7A&Searc...
The other thing that I have not mentioned is that it may a faulty cable, perhaps the wires that supply the voltage to the inverter board have become internally frayed. This is a common occurrence, but usually this also effects the picture as well.
Here is the part number for the cable 496876-001. These can be found on e-bay and some of them are new.

T400 LCD screen is very dim, but icon lights for HDD, etc. are working

Hi - I'm wondering if anyone knows what the issue with my T-400 would be if the LCD screen is very dim. Details include:
- When I boot up, there's a faint outline of what is going on, but barely noticeable since the whole screen is very, very dim
- Video card is working okay, because I can operate the laptop when I plug in an external monitor
- The icon lights for HDD, power, battery, etc. are still working
Thanks so much for the help.

First a question: Is it a CCFL backlight or LED? If it is a CCFL, it could be just the inverter, which is a lot cheaper than the panel. If the CCFL bulb goes out, usually (but not always) there is a red tint to the screen for a while first. The LED backlights are less likely to blow and there is no inverter. (The LED backlight is DC and the inverter convers the DC to AC to drive the CCFL bulb) Do you know which kind of backlight you have? If you don't know, send me your full model and serial in a pm and I'll look it up. Don't post it in the open forum. Also, what were you doing when it went out? Were you doing anything except normal work, like taking something apart or hooking something up?

Can I replace my LCD with a NON-LED LCD??

I have a late 2007 Macbook Pro with the 15in LED LCD. A few months after warranty goes, my screen starts dying on me. It's not the graphics card problem, just a screen problem. Genius bar says it will be about $800 to repair. So I go on ebay and look up screens. My question is, does it HAVE to be an LED screen or can it be a regular LCD? This listing* claims this screen is for the A1226 MBP which is what my MBP is, but the listing says its a "ccfl bulb" LCD and doesn't mention anything about LED. Would this work or not? Thanks guys/girls!
*Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=1803 51992234

Typically not because the power input to the LED (usually 5 volt) is different than that for a florescent lamp which requires a ballast circuit to work. Also the cable connection design will usually get redesigned between the 2 types and the lighting is part of the LCD screen.

My macbook, from 2009, doesnt show any picture in a piece of his screen

My macbook is from 2009 and now a piece from his screen doesnt show any pictures anymore. I went to a shop from Apple and they told me that its a contact problem and to solve this it will cost about U$700, thats almost the price from a new mac! Does that mean that I have to buy a new Mac every 4 years?
Has someone else the same problem?
How you solved this?

Hi there
The quote for 700 is outrageous. It could be as simple as a loose connection or something not terribly expensive as a new screen. Did they tell you exactly what was to replaced for that 700 dollar diagnosis? Unfortunately, Apple seems to charge you 50 dollars for a screw, no wonder they are doing so well these days. Your Macbook uses a screen made by a manufacturer who makes the same screens for Laptops made by other manufactures who make "PC" laptops. Depending on screen size,you could purchase the screen on Ebay for about 100 dollars. Thats what I did with my MacBook which had a 13.3 inch LG Philips LP133WX1 (TL)(A1) LCD screen. I put it in myself, which is relatively easy. The hard part would be to replace the CCFL bulb inside the LCD if that went, now thats a bit trickier, but that isnt the case here, you are replacing the whole screen. I would call around, but I can almost guarantee you that it would cost you less than 200 dollars total for the screen and a local computer store to install that screen. Call the local shop that specializes in mac first, then call a local PC shop for a second quote to have some leverage. Some places seems to charge double or triple if it has a Apple logo on it.
Good luck and let us know the outcome.

30" Cinema Display vs 24" LED CInema Display

I am on the fence about a 30" Cinema Display vs. a 24" LED Cinema Display. My concern is the technology of the 30" display. Are there any concerns I should have about its technology being outdated? How about the CCFL bulbs and their lifetime vs. that of the LED? I know I can get them refurbed for $1299 but price is not the issue. I want to invest money into something that is going to last a while.
Any owners out there with 30" displays that have had them for a while with no issues?
Message was edited by: Michael710

I just took delivery of the 30" and to this point I am disappointed. In my opinion, my wife's 24" iMac display is much clearer and much more vibrant. I have the older plastic 20" that is much easier to view with it's mat finish than the 30" mat finish. The 30" has some sort of subtle sparkle to it and the 20" is perfectly flat looking. I can't explain the look on the 30" but it is very disturbing to me. It's almost like the glisten on a screen when you wipe a damp rag across it.

20" ADC Display Totally Black - No Image

I've searched the forums at length, but now need to post and request advice.
- I have a 20 inch acrylic ADC Cinema Display.
- The display was working perfectly until Christmas Day when I opened my G4 to install my new SATA PCI hard drive controller card.
- The computer was (of course) powered down. However, I confess that I forgot to pull the AC cord.
- I powered up the computer enthusiastically after installing the SATA card (along with a 500MB drive) and was devastated that my display was completely black.
- There is no image at all, not even a faint one that you might see with reflected light.
- The power touch-button at the lower-right works perfectly. It fires up the G4, and stays lit without any blinking pattern.
- It is evident that the computer knows the display is connected and thinks it is working fine. When I connect a second monitor to the DVI connector on the Radeon 9000 video card with the 20" Apple display connected to the ADC connector, the computer goes into dual-display mode, but naturally the main display is the ADC which remains completely black.
What I've tried:
- Reset the computer using the little button on the motherboard.
- Reset the pram using the startup key sequence.
- I connected my failed monitor to my son's G4 (which uses an identical 20" display that was purchased at the same time) via his DVI-ADC adapter. My failed monitor still did not work with his known-good ADC output. Therefore, I confirmed that the issue is with the display, and not with my Radeon 9000 card.
- Most importantly, I opened the display and installed a brand new genuine-apple replacement inverter board. The display remains completely black. (I was so sure the new inverter board would get me back in business...)
Is it possible that my stupid mistake of not pulling the AC plug while poking around in there caused all of the CCFL bulbs to blow?
Could it be the other board, called the "main board?"
How about the ADC cable? Is it prone to anything relevant?
Any ideas???
I just cannot bring myself to give up and simply discard this beautiful display, On the other hand, I obviously cannot just keep wasting money on parts that are difficult if not impossible to return.
Help, and thanks for listening.

I would also check all them pins on the ADC connector to see if any are bent or pushed in. The other thing I can possibly see is the main board in the display. If that is the last resort check out Moniserv for price and availability. I really don't think you blew the display by the power cord being still attached to the computer. It's odd that that should happen at the same time as the SATA card addition . The CCFL bulbs don't blow like that especially in pairs, I really think it's that monitor cable. I also am perplexed.

T400: Replace CCFL lamp or whole LCD?

Hi everybody,
So my CCFL lamp on my T400 has pretty much died. I'm pretty sure it's not the inverter card due to the pink hue towards the bottom & the (lowering) hissing noise before the LCD shuts off. First noticed it would die pretty soon when the screen started flickering on dim settings.
At first I started to look for LCD assemblies (I have the Samsung panel one, LTN141WD-L05) , then told myself-dumb me! why not just replace the lamp (or both, since we there) since my LCD's doing just fine.
But then some people versed in laptops in general (but none had ever changed CCFL lamps before) told me I was better off changing the LCD assembly all together, since replacing the lamps is apparently a daunting & nerve wracking task. I'm not scared myself in replacing the whole LCD-I've change the LCD cover of a previous ThinkPad before and have disassembled this one countless times, including changing the CPU heatsink/fan unit-although never reaching the point of removing the LCD bezel (I did came close, when I had to check the hinges-but that's another story). And then, I don't think CCFL lamps are FRUs, and the HMM sure doesn't go into that territory.
So, my question:
Has anybody ever changed CCFL lamps in a ThinkPad/other laptop? Is there even a guide out there ? (I'm still searching around for one)
Oh, and by the way, yes, my T400 is out of warranty (bought it in 2009, extended warranty expired in 2012)
Another detail: I live in Montreal, Canada, and I'd be happy to have it done by some local shop that would have competence in this. I mention local, because if I had to ship it I think I'd rather buy & have myself shipped a whole LCD unit instead. So I'm supposed to call tomorrow to my local Lenovo service center & a few approved service provider (from Lenovo's website) to inquire about their prices **and** turn-around time (again, if it takes a month I'd do either one of the repairs myself)
Thanks in advance, any feedback will be appreciated.
Edit: There's actually only one CCFL lamp in the LTN141WD-L05.
ThinkPad T400 (2764-CTO): Windows 7 64 SP2 / T9400 2.53 GHz / 8GB RAM / 14.1" WXGA+ (1440x900) / ATI Radeon HD 3470 + Intel 4500MHD (switchable) / 320GB 7200rpm / DVD±RW / Intel WiFi 5300
Past models: T40 (2373-PM1), 760C; other brands
Solved!
Go to Solution.

johnwait wrote
So, my question:
Has anybody ever changed CCFL lamps in a ThinkPad/other laptop? Is there even a guide out there ? (I'm still searching around for one)
Hissing comes from the inverter. Redness from the CCFL. Both must be replaced.
Having changed a CCFL myself on a T30 many years ago I swore never to do it again, and would advise everyone else to just flip the screen or an entire assembly. The chances of introducing dust specs between the LCD layers in the process of swapping the bulb are just way too high for my liking, and that's only one of the problems.
Secondly, Samsung screens are in general a horror show to change the CCFL on, regardless of the generation.
Lastly, T400 panels are rather inexpensive nowadays...
If you insist on a guide, here's the best one there is, at least in my opinion:
http://forum.thinkpads.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=88991
Good luck.
Cheers,
George
In daily use: R60F, R500F, T61, T410
Collecting dust: T60
Enjoying retirement: A31p, T42p,
Non-ThinkPads: Panasonic CF-31 & CF-52, HP 8760W
Starting Thursday, 08/14/2014 I'll be away from the forums until further notice. Please do NOT send private messages since I won't be able to read them. Thank you.

Anyplace I can buy a light bulb for my display?

Dropped my powerbook and the screen is dark. Computer works fine with external monitor.
At a suggestion from the discussion group I bought a new inverter board from Ifixit ($50) and just replaced it. No luck.
Is it time to give up, or is there a way to replace the actual light source?
I purchased the take apart manual from Powerbook medic, and am game to try if the bulbs are available.
(The free Ifixit.com instructions are clearer and easier to see, but only went as far as removing the whole display.)
Karen

Thanks for the advice and links from both of you. Once I knew exactly what the lamp is called (CCFL) I found a site called CCFLdirect. With shipping I ordered one for about $16.00.
Believe it or not I find the challenge of fixing it myself fun. And the alternative is I buy a new computer anyway - so for $16 it's worth it to try. I have gotten as far as putting the new inverter board in - that took about 1.5 hours.
So, I have completely backed up the computer to an external drive with disk utility, and have nothing to lose and a lot to learn by trying. If I screw up, I'll part out the good components on ebay and buy a MacBook Pro.
Also found a number of sites with instructions for replacing the lamp.
Wish me luck, and thanks again. I love this resource.

Help! Attempted CCFL replacement, now light shuts off randomly

My wife's Pismo came down with pink screen a few weeks ago. I found a few posts on here about replacing the CCFL, and since I'm pretty technically adept and I've done plenty of soldering and read through the walkthrough posted here: http://www.macopinion.com/columns/roadwarrior/04/10/19/
so I thought I'd give it a try. I bought the replacement bulb from DigiKey.
I got started and it was far more involved than the walkthrough led me to believe -- nothing out of my ability but definitely much, much more involved than the line in the guide that says "With both guides printed-out in-hand, the task is only slightly a higher challenge harder than replacing a hard drive.” would lead you to belive. Just a warning to others thinking about trying this -- it's not difficult, but it is very, very involved.
But at any rate, I got it swapped. I reassembled it partway and got it to a point where I could start it up to make sure it worked before I completely reassembled everything. No problem, it started up. The screen seemed a little off, like white wasn't quite white, but tweaking the color calibration seemed to fix it, and besides the case wasn't on, so I decided just to put it back together.
So I went a little further and got the screen back in the arms, hooked up all of the cables, and before I put the casing back on I tested it again. No backlight.
So I pulled it all apart again, found the likely culprit (weak solder joint), reassembled again.
Starts fine, but after a few seconds the light abruptly switches off completely. No flicker, no warning, just off.
At this point I've put so much time into it I'm wondering whether I should just get a used LCD panel, although that would just bring up the possibility of the bulb in the replacement failing. Plus the reason I'm even attempting this is that I just don't have any extra cash.
Can anybody point me to something that would make the display just shut off like that? It seems to be fine up until it shuts off, i.e. no dark spots, no flicker. I thought broken wire, especially since the display shutoff sometimes seems to accompany moving the panel, but no amount of wire-wiggling causes it to come back, even just as a flicker. It shuts off almost immediately after the gray apple logo appears right after it starts. Sometimes it's 1/2 a second earlier or later, but basically the same time.
I'm going to hook it up through S-Video to a TV for now, if that's even possible w/o a working display, just to get it up and running again, but that won't work for long.
OSX 10.4.3, Pismo 500mhz (DayStar daugterboard replacement to fix a failed cache), 512mb RAM, 40gb hard drive.

Solved! I had a short between the bulb power wires and the metal LCD panel frame.
If anyone else is thinking about trying this, just be aware that it's very involved, but not exactly complicated. You absolutely need heat shrink tubing and a Torx T8 screwdriver, but the only skills you'll need are basic soldering and mechanical skills. And a good attention to details is a must.
For anyone else reading this and attempting this fix, a few very important points:
1) Use heat-shrink tubing. Don't try to do it with anything else. Get the 1/16" size, cut it to 1-2 inches and slide it over the wires that go to the inverter before you solder -- also be sure to slide the rubber end-caps over those same wires before you solder! Then shrink it a little, slide it in place and tuck it inside the white rubber covers at either end of the bulbs to ensure complete coverage of the wires, then shrink it all the way.
The cause of my problem was a short -- I didn't have any shrink tubing and tried to get by with electrical tape, and even though I had it well covered when I reassembled the frame, the pressure and movement of the reassmbly process caused metal to touch metal somewhere every single time I reassembled it (5 or 6 times). It was fine as long as the LCD panel didn't touch anything metal, but the minute it touched the support arms, the display would shut off. Once I got some heat shrink tubing it was perfect the first time.
2) Take some pictures of the LCD panel as you open it up. I had a little trouble getting the various wires, bulb enclosure, plastic sheets, etc. all re-packed and sealed correctly. Related to this, you'll want something soft but solid to rest the display screen on while you've got it disassemled. I don't mean a towel or something else soft and lint-free to cover your work surface, that's essential to to prevent scratches, but you'll want something you can use to elevate one end of it off of the towel -- I used two of my kids rubber cubes. Having the bulb end of the panel securely raised off the surface helps immensely in reassmbly.
3) Test before reassembling. You won't hurt anything by doing it, just be careful with the easily bent display cable and make sure you ground yourself to avoid zapping anything. Test the bulb itself first, by plugging it into the inverter before anything else (once you've got it soldered and back in the metal channel that holds it). Wiggle the wires, touch the metal channel, make sure everything's tight. Then test the bulb once you've got the LCD panel reassembled (be sure to check for even illumination -- the panel must be tightly sealed (squeeze it tight and use a little tape to hold it that way) to get even illumination with no bright spots or glow along the bottom. Then test it once you've got the display back in the arms and hooked up to the display cable. And finally do one last test before you put the back panel on. It adds maybe 15-20 minutes to the reassembly process but I think it's worth it. That testing process is what led me to my short.
Anyway, mine's fixed, hopefully I'll never have to do that again. Best of luck to anyone else unfortunate enough to have to do it.

PLEASE HELP -T61p- CCFL lamp not working even after replacement

Hello Everyone,
This is my first post so please bear with me.
Skip the first three paragraphs if you don't have time.
I bought a T61p in jan-2008. I have sent this thinkpad to service centers for repair a couple of times, once for replacing the motherboard( the bios updater screwedup) and the other time for a broken LCD hinge. The service was excellent (they even sent me spare parts a couple of times like keyboard, touchpad etc).
A few months ago i spilled some beer on the keyboard, so immediately switched it off, opened the laptop and carefully cleaned everything. Switched it on, TADA it works as good as before.
A couple of months back i realized my warranty is about to expire so i though i would send the system for a final checkup. Now the guys at the service center tell me that there is a spill and to repair it i need accidental coverage which i don't have and cannot buy after the "accident". To repair it they asked for an advance of $800 - the laptop costs around 1400, it seemed to me that the cost of repair was too high. So they send me back my machine.
Now when i switch on my machine, i can see that the screen is active (if i look it at an angle i can see even different colors) but it is almost pitch black. I did some research, bought an inverter and lcd connection cords from lenovo and replaced the old one, no difference. Thought it must be the CCFL lamp, so bought a new lcd screen and replaced the existing one, still no difference. Frustrated, i removed the whole lcd from the hinge and connected my machine to an external monitor, this works perfectly.
My Question: Where is the problem, i replaced lcd, inverter, the connector cords. If there is problem with the graphics card the external monitor shouldn't work(i can even play games on it). Is there anything that can be done (a laptop is better than a converted desktop). Please share your expert thoughts, opinions and comments.
Thanks,
Elliot

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I want to do a project in Labview which controls 5 light bulbs which lights in a room.

I want to do a project in Labview which controls 5 light bulbs which lights in a room. The switching on of light bulbs depend on amount of sunlight falling on a LDR. Small intensity of sunlight should cause the lighting of one bulb after the other. I need some help in writing my program in Labview.

kasamaneka wrote:
I want to do a project in Labview which controls 5 light bulbs which lights in a room. The switching on of light bulbs depend on amount of sunlight falling on a LDR. Small intensity of sunlight should cause the lighting of one bulb after the other. I need some help in writing my program in Labview.
LDR is a resistor whose resistance decreases with increasing incident light intensity... I know, you are already aware of what LDR is...!!
--> Well what exactly you want a LabVIEW program to do in this setup of yours...??
--> If you want LabVIEW to take control and lit different bulbs, based on the light intensity, I would like to know, how exactly you planned to measure the resistance variation of LDR??
--> What DAQ are you using??
--> Are you aware that DAQ cards can measure the voltage across a shunt resistance (here LDR) and indirectly tell you the variation in the resistant, provided a constant current passing through the resistance.
I am not allergic to Kudos, in fact I love Kudos.
Make your LabVIEW experience more CONVENIENT.

When i turn on my iMac its sounds like a light bulb struguling

When i turn on my iMac its sounds like a light bulb struguling

Not sure what a struggling light bulb sounds like. It is very hard to describe sounds sometimes. Is it an electrical buzzing or crackling sound? Does the computer still startup normally after the sound? You have Lion so I wonder if it is a new iMac. If so, call AppleCare.

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