Change preferences for Auto black/white point in Camera RAW

Hey guys,
By hold shift and clicking on the slider for whites Camera RAW automatically sets the white point, same goes for the black. However, it always gets pushed to 255 (white).
Is there some way that you can edit this preference?

I don't know, but somebody may know for sure over in the camera raw forum:
https://forums.adobe.com/community/cameraraw

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Change preferences for Auto blacks/whites

Hey guys, By hold shift and clicking on the slider for whites Camera RAW automatically sets the white point, same goes for the black. However, it always gets pushed to 255 (white). Is there some way that you can edit this preference?

Wow. I never knew that!
Doing the same on Contrast changes it too, but to what?

Setting White Points in Camera Raw

When setting white points in Adobe Camera Raw, while holding down Alt (on a PC), are the red marks what I should look for? Because white marks also appear? Which ones are relevant for the white point?

ACR doesn’t work that way. There is an eyedropper for the overall white-balance that you can set by clicking on a relatively bright, neutral area, but there aren’t black and white-point eyedroppers. But, what is clipped black or white is determined by the output colorspace you have set at the bottom and you can get some idea of what will be clipped black and white by turning on the clipping indicators and watching for the areas you’d be eye-droppering on (the black and white patches in your grayscale) to start showing the clipping color overlay for black and white, but any further toning adjustments will move data in and out of what is darker than black and lighter than white so what is clipped for output will change as you fiddle with the various toning sliders.
The reason things are different: In PS, when you set a black-point and white-point in Levels and click Ok, the data below and above those is thrown away and that is the starting point for the next adjustment. In ACR, things are non-destructive and all the adjustments occur simultaneously, rather than sequentially as in PS, and no clipping occurs until you create the output file. This means that the pixels that are darker than your black-point and lighter than your white-point are still there, and can be moved into the black-to-white range if you do further toning adjustments. Having more headroom of the pixels that are outside the black-to-white range is good because you won’t get the posterization or banding that occurs when colors and levels are clipped after each adjustment in PS.
Can you describe what you intend your overall workflow to be on an image: how much adjusting will occur in ACR and how much, if any, might happen in PS, after the image is opened into PS from ACR, or opened from a file saved from ACR? There might be other ways to approach what you’re trying to accomplish.

Query Re: 'Show Clipping for Black/White Points'

Good morning.
Please can anyone help me with a query.
I have recently come across the 'Show Clipping for Black/White Points' in Levels and Curves and it's driving me mad!
Until recently, I have always opened raw images in Camera Raw or Lightroom, checked for clipping there, and if need be use the recovery or blacks sliders to recover detail. I then open my 16 bit image image in PS in ProPhotoRGB, using levels to make any alterations. I would check to see in the histogram if all is ok and left it there. It all felt pretty straight forward.
Now though I've taken to holding the alt button and going through each channel only to find that clipping occurs every time I begin to move the slider; however small.
The only way I can avoid this clipping is by leaving the levels bar alone altogether. Then there is no clipping in any channels but the image looks flat, and the histogram shows up big gaps on both sides (at least to the naked eye).
I always thought the idea was to move the sliders so there aren't big gaps on either side.
But if I move the slider say from 255 to 254, a red dot will appear, to 250, a few clusters, and by the time I've adjusted the levels to where I think it should be at 230 (based on the histogram) there will be clipping in all colours, all over the place!
I don't know what I'm meant to do. It's more frustrating because I thought I had dealt with the clipping in Camera Raw. Is there a way to avoid this whilst still moving the sliders to where I want them to be?
Thanks for taking the time to read this.

c.pfaffenbichler wrote:
So why are you pressing alt when dragging the Levels handles if the information this provides is not to your liking?
Good point! That's what I've been asking myself.
I think I was happier when I was blissfully unaware of clipping, brightening away to my heart's content! It feels as if the more I discover the less I really know.
Thanks D Fosse for the tip on curves. Much appreciated.

Setting White, Mid and Black Points in Camera Raw 7

I am using Camera Raw 7 and can not seem to locate where can you set the white, mid, and black points in Camera Raw with the eyedropper tool. It seems you have to create a new psd file in Photoshop to do this, which does not make much sense since it is a basic levels adjustment. I am batch editing a bunch of CR2 files, and I just need to select the black, mid and white points on a grayscale that I've shot in the images - is there a way to do this in Camera Raw 7? Thanks!!

ACR doesn’t work that way. There is an eyedropper for the overall white-balance that you can set by clicking on a relatively bright, neutral area, but there aren’t black and white-point eyedroppers. But, what is clipped black or white is determined by the output colorspace you have set at the bottom and you can get some idea of what will be clipped black and white by turning on the clipping indicators and watching for the areas you’d be eye-droppering on (the black and white patches in your grayscale) to start showing the clipping color overlay for black and white, but any further toning adjustments will move data in and out of what is darker than black and lighter than white so what is clipped for output will change as you fiddle with the various toning sliders.
The reason things are different: In PS, when you set a black-point and white-point in Levels and click Ok, the data below and above those is thrown away and that is the starting point for the next adjustment. In ACR, things are non-destructive and all the adjustments occur simultaneously, rather than sequentially as in PS, and no clipping occurs until you create the output file. This means that the pixels that are darker than your black-point and lighter than your white-point are still there, and can be moved into the black-to-white range if you do further toning adjustments. Having more headroom of the pixels that are outside the black-to-white range is good because you won’t get the posterization or banding that occurs when colors and levels are clipped after each adjustment in PS.
Can you describe what you intend your overall workflow to be on an image: how much adjusting will occur in ACR and how much, if any, might happen in PS, after the image is opened into PS from ACR, or opened from a file saved from ACR? There might be other ways to approach what you’re trying to accomplish.

How do I turn off hierarchical keywording in LR 5? The interface preference for auto complete is off and I still get California United State Country. I just want Caliofrnia.

How do I turn off hierarchical key wording in Lightroom? The Interface Preference for Auto Complete is already turned off, but I still get California>United States>North America when all I need is California.

You need to be signed in order to reply to posts.
One reason why you may see the hierarchical type format for the keywords is that you have keyword 'California' duplicated in your keyword list.
Lightroom will display them with "< Parent-keywords" appended to the end.
ie California < State < Country and California < United States
If you re-keyword the photos so they only use one version and then delete the duplicate keyword from your keyword list then it will display just "California".
Bruce

Black & White Effect On Camera

Hello
I am new to iPhone Development. I am using UIImagePickerView and AVCaptureSession to Open Camera. I want to set Color Effect and black & white Effect on Camera.
Is there any Code of Sample App? Are there any suggested articles that I can read to learn more about my different options.
Please help, thanks!

It is quite possible there may be a defect with your iSight camera (back side). How old is your iPhone? If you are more than 90 miles from an Apple Store you can call 1-800-APL-CARE and they can set up a mailed repair for you?
Keep in mind a mail-in repair without having AppleCare on your phone may cost you to have it turned around quickly. (Just buy the AppleCare for you phone and it should be fast)

I have changed my photo to black & white.

Photo is now black & white. Is there a way to change parts of the photo back to color?

Miss
Ann1960,
If the face in the photo with the person's eyes closed is otherwise ok, I would just clone the open eye(s).
To do that:
Open both pictures, and display them side-by-side.
On the picture with closed eyes, open a blank layer at the top of the stack of layers in the layers palette. Do nothing else on this layer just yet
Access the clone stamp tool, and press ALT on the keyboard and left click over the open eye (your source)
On the other picture, clone into the blank layer which you created in step #2 (destination)
Access the move tool to position the eye and resize with the corner handles of the bounding box.
You can change this layer's opacity and blending mode to suit
If you really prefer to substitute the entire face, make a selection of the "good" face with one of the selection tools (e.g. selection brush, marquee):
Go to Edit>copy
Open the other picture
Go to Edit>paste.
Use the move tool to position
Touch up with eraser and brush tools
TIP: Use the bracket keyes [ to decrease and ] to increase the size of the brush cursor.
Report back with your progress

Change preferences for double click on images in Bridge

Hiya,
I feel a bit silly for asking this because it seems so obvious, but the onvious way just doesn't seem to work for me.
When double-clicking on an image in Bridge, it opens Photoshop - which I suppose in some cases helps, but drives me crazy because it slows the system down so much. I want it to open Camera Raw 6 or just have a bigger preview of the photo.
I tried Edit/Preferences: Under General I ticked the option that double clicks edits camera raw settings
and under file associations I tried to associate jpg files with something other than photoshop but Camera Raw 6.0 is not offered to me there and I can't find the path that leads to it. What is the path? Or is there a different way?
Thanks so much!!
(Oh and another question, when when you filter for two keywords, you get all files that have either one or the other, how can I make them only show the ones that have both???)

Don't think you could get a jpeg to open in camera raw with a double click as that is not the normal route, like it is with a raw image. If you right click on the image you have the option to open in camera raw.
If you do a search with 2 keywords it you only want images that have both you have to click if all criteria met in the match drop down box.

Acquire black/white from color camera

I have a color camera and would like to acquire image in black/white. I want to tried grabbing image in black and white because I want to increase speed of the program. I tried changing the format of the image from RGB to float when creating an image (IMAQ create image), it worked but the program worked so slow. My questions are:
1. Can you suggest me how to make it faster?
2. Does aquiring image in black and white instead of color (RGB) help increase speed of the program?

Irene,
I will assume you are using the PCI-1411 board for your acquisition. In MAX, you can select what the output is. Your options are a full color image, the different color planes (R,G,B) or the HSI color planes. I would select Intensity to get a grayscale image. The conversion will be done on the board, which is fast. In your program, use a standard 8 bit image, which is the default.
Acquiring the image in grayscale will not necessarily increase the speed of the program, but it should increase the speed of any processing you are doing. Since there is less information to process, it is faster. It really depends on what you are doing with the images after you acquire them.
As a general rule, there is no reason to acquire color images unless
you need the color information. A grayscale camera is cheaper and the image quality is usually better.
Bruce
Bruce Ammons
Ammons Engineering

Confused on setting black point in Camera Raw 7

Hi,
I just upgraded to CS6. I was wondering how the new Blacks slider in Camera Raw 7 correlates to the same in the older version. The slider in CS5 went left to right from 0 to 100. The new slider defaults in the center and goes from -100 to +100. I never seemed to have a problem setting the black clipping point in the old version. In the new version I'm not sure if I'm getting it right. Any advice would be appreciated.
Kindest regards

Once you have some contrast added (if it's an underly contrasty shot), or some contrast removed (if it's an overly contrasty shot), then simply move the blacks slider left until you have the desired amount of black clipping. You can also move the blacks slider right if you need more light in the pic, and PV2012 will keep the blacks fairly-well seated (if its a full dynamic range shot), or it will let the black point slide up more (if original tonal distribution was not occupying whole histogram). But consider, before +blacks, whether +exposure (and maybe +shadows/-highlights) wouldn't do ya better. Note: +blacks will reduce contrast, so sometimes if you opt for +blacks you need +contrast (and/or +clarity) to go with it. Likewise, -blacks increases contrast, so you may need some -contrast to go with it (and you may find you need less clarity if you have blacks plenty-well seated).
Legend:
'+' = positive (right)
'-' = negative (left)
"plenty-well seated" = clipped enough but not too much .
"fairly-well seated" = not unclipped too much .
Clear as mud? ,
Rob

Setting White Balance in Camera RAW

I have heard and read (what apppears to be) contrary information about using the White Balance Tool in Camera RAW.
I have sometimes heard that I need to select a naturally white point (as opposed to a specular / highlight point); but I have also heard that I need to select a neutral gray point.
I am wondering if it's either / or and that it all amounts to the same thing.
Can anyone assist and explain the differences?

You can use any area that has no colour contend regardless of its tonal value. For instance you can use full black to se WB. Note this is not the same as setting black and white points in ACR

White Balance in Camera raw

Every time I open an image from Bridge in CS6, into camera raw the white balance always defaults to fluorescent. How can I change default opening to read as"shot as"?

Hi there! Because the forum you originally posted in is for beginners trying to learn the basics of Photoshop, I moved your question to the Camera Raw forum, where you'll get more specialized help.

Photoshop cs4 opens images black and only in camera raw

I'm running Photoshop cs4 on a pc. Recently, it began having 2 issues. First, it started opening everything into Bridge Camera Raw instead of just opening the image itself. Next issue is that when I attempt to open an image from Camera Raw, it opens black. I can see the image is there in a layer, but the working screen is black. Every once in a while it will open normally. This is with all images, no matter what size the are.

On a Mac I don't know which directory it should be in.
Camera Raw preferences: Bridge: menu Adobe Bridge/ Camera Raw preferences.
Inhere you can set the wished behavior for tiff. By default it shows tiffs
only in ACR when you choose to do so with right mouse click menu (open in
Camera Raw) or if the Tiff had earlier been altered in ACR, then it opens
automatically in ACR unless you choose not to do so.
About Plug in in Photoshop, Menu Photoshop/ about Plug In

Seems that we are unable to Choose for "open as" a default of Camera Raw" ?

Greetings
I have no problem with this in that if I, for instance, want to open a JPEG in Camera Raw, then I choose that from the drop-down box. I have learned this by
initially forgetting many times, then completing the action successfully. Then the drop-down box comes up with that option for the rest of the session. Next time I
open Elements however the default is not Raw but,instead Photoshop PSD.
However, we do teach other people at our sessions how to use Elements and this makes it more difficult to do. Although there are many possible permutations, the
most obvious is to open as Adobe Camera Raw. If we want to open as Photoshop PSD then a simple "Open" on a Photoshop PSD file will do the trick.
Is there something I am missing ??

Jim Air wrote:
PS - I did not answer your question re are we teaching the use of "ACR as default for jpegs". I would not go so far as to say, default. Nevertheless we try to encourage the use of RAW and also very definitely for the images that we really like and/or are unique shots, the extra value of processing these jpegs in ACR.
Yes I agree with the purpose.
I think it's not only a quality advice, it's also a matter of efficiency in your workflow. When you compare the workflow in Lightroom to a traditional workflow in the combo editor - organizer - ACR, you can see how the 'parametric' editing of Lightroom is valuable. You can edit batches of files with raws and jpegs, you don't bother about creating output versions at editing time, you can appy the same edits to a selection of files. In a way, you can do the same if you are only working with raws in Elements. What breaks the combo is when you are working with jpeg. You can't open jpegs in ACR from the Organizer... unless they have already been opened from the editor!
My last experiment in the Christmas event was dealing with a collection of 300 pictures taken at max ISO by three different P&S cameras, a few with flash, most without. The lighting was indoors, several kinds of fluorescent lights, halogen, tungsten and mixed daylight. Any combination of those lights, different abilities from the 3 cameras re ISO, noise, saturation... but they were taken by short sequences of 4 to 15 in the same lighting conditions.
So, you are right only ACR can provide a good start to deal with the atrocious white balance problem as well as the noise (In some cases, there was no other solution than a black and white conversion). But I was able to process quickly each sequence in a similar lighting by using common settings. I did only open a few in the editor, I simply clicked 'Done' after the tonal, noise and cropping adjustments. After the first batch of edits, I was able to use only the Organizer for my final edits as I could open 'converted' jpegs as well as raw in the editor.
So, the workaround for the organizer inability to open jpegs in ACR would be to 'Open in ACR' in the editor batches of jpegs, doing nothing in the ACR dialog except selecting the whole batch and clicking 'Done'. After that, you can open in ACR from the Organizer! Note that doing nothing in the ACR dialog means that the 'default ACR conversion settings' will be applied (non destructively). Believe me, that was already a big improvement in white balance and tonal rendition!

Change preferences for Auto black/white point in Camera RAW

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