Computer troubleshoot

My imac currently says: panic(cpu 0 caller ######): unable to find driver for this platform: "ACPI".
Followed by: you need to restart your computer.
I have tried many attempts to restart the computer. Turned it off, then back on. The control or command button does not do anything and the blue apple in the top left hand corner is not visible. The computer currently does not recognize the mouse.
In addition, I have tried holding down the option button when restarting, does not fix the issue. The same gray screen still comes up.
Also, I have tried restarting followed by holding down: command, option, p & r keys and that does not work either.
Any advise, suggestion, comments would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Hello erikal:
Welcome to Apple discussions.
I suggest you do a couple of things.
Run the hardware checker that came with your system
Run repair disk from your software install DVD.
If that does not help, I would suggest you consider an archive and install:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107120
Barry

Similar Messages

Transfer of iTunes library to a new computer troubleshooting.

I have followed the instructions for transferring my library via an external hard drive. The library appears to have trasferred but when I try to play a song I get the following message: "the song could not be used because the original file could not be found. Would you lake to locate it?" Have repeated the process three times with the same result. I can go into the MyMusic directory and fnd the song file and the song will play in iTunes and, once played, will play out of iTunes. I cannot repeat this process with 3,000 plus songs. Any suggestions are welcome.

To confim, the file that was at:
D:\iTunes Music\Al Green\Al Green - Greatest Hits\02 Call Me.m4a
Is now at:
C:\Users\Public\Music\iTunes\iTunes Music/Al Green/Al Green - Greatest Hits/02 Call Me.m4a
If there is no drive D: or you can assign a new drive letter to that disc temporarily then I can think of a way to "repair" the libray on a temporary basis so that you could use my techniques to make a split library portable.
On the other hand it might be easier to do this on the old machine with the working library and then migrate it again.
tt2

I cannot validate the serial number and I tried several things like shut down firewall, change hosts (cannot change it by the way the computer won't let me), etc.

I cannot validate the serial number on premiere elements and photoshop elements. Stil saying that i do not have any connection with the internet. I already tried to contact the adobe chat. They did help me, but what they say did not work.
They said that I had to contact helpdeks, but they would not help me. I had to go to the chat again. The chat does not work.
I also tried al of the things that is mentioned on this site https://helpx.adobe.com/nl/x-productkb/policy-pricing/activation-deactivation-products.htm l.
Can someone help me, because I don't know what to do know.

Celina
Did you purchase Premiere Elements 13 from Adobe direct? If so, you can get your money back within 30 days of purchase.
I can post an Adobe Chat Orders link for that if necessary.
Did Adobe Chat or any of its representatives offer to do a remote control of computer troubleshooting to get to the core of your
problem? We in this user to user forum cannot do that, Adobe Chat might. But, again, we are not Adobe.
Do you have a computer shop or an associate with computer software knowledge who can assist you on this matter?
Excuse the question, but I do not want to take anything for granted. Are you sure that you have the right serial number and are
entering it correctly
xxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxx
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/find-serial-number.html
Just to summarize...
a. In the hosts file....you saw nothing but the default entries
b. You download and installed the Adobe Application Manager and that did not solve the problem
c. You renamed the SLCache and SLStore Folders and that did not help
But, can you disable the antivirus and firewall(s) to see if resolves the issue in anyway?
What antivirus program does your computer use?
ATR

How can my Spouse and I share the same Itunes Music on separate machines?

My Spouse is on a PC desktop and I am on a Macbook Pro. I have a large Itunes library on my Computer and he has a fair sized Library too. We listen to a lot of the same music and each have Ipods. It's crazy to buy the same music twice.... is there a way we can share our music and make playlists for our separate Ipods?

Understanding Home Sharing
iOS- Setting up Home Sharing on your iOS device
Setting up Home Sharing for Apple TV (2nd & 3rd generation)
iTunes- Setting up Home Sharing on your computer
Troubleshooting Home Sharing

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

One mac 2 users how to share itunes ?

We have a mac and 2 users, 2 libreries. My h has all our music in his library, how do i copy it to my library?

Yes, I believe so. The following may be helpful:
iTunes- Setting up Home Sharing on your computer
Troubleshooting Home Sharing

Premiere Elements 13 won't launch in Windows 8.1 (Click the icon and nothing happens)

I'm running the trial version of Premiere Elements 13 on Windows 8.1 64-bit. It's a brand new PC built for video editing. Everything worked perfectly for about a week and all of a sudden I'm unable to start the program. I click the icon and nothing happens. No splash screen, no error code, no spinning circle cursor.
I have the latest video card drivers for my graphics card.
I've tried uninstalling the program, removed every last Adobe file from my PC, uninstalled all instances of Microsoft Visual C++ and reinstalled Adobe Premiere Elements 13. I tried the same with a fresh download of the program. Neither worked.
I've tried installing a couple .dll files based on a similar thread (where a program called iLivid was the issue). I don't have iLivid on this PC and adding the new drivers didn't work.
For the few days that the software was working I loved it and was ready to purchase. Unfortunately I won't be able to buy it until I can get it to launch on my PC. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

celebornx
My major problem was with the reliability of the uninstall reinstall of Premiere Elements 12 Windows. I did not encounter any issues in this regard with 11. And, I have only looked at the 30 day tryout of 13 from Adobe. My computers are Windows XP 32 bit, Windows 7 64 bit, Windows 8 and later 8.1 64 bit. The following describes what got me through the worse of these hassels.
http://www.atr935.blogspot.com/2014/04/pe12-premiere-elements-12-editor-will.html
http://www.atr935.blogspot.com/2014/04/pe12-sign-in-failure-connect-to.html
I am not sure if the above will work for you with 13. But, it would be worthwhile to check them out.
Since you are dealing with current version 13, it might be a good idea to get Adobe via its Adobe Chat involved, with the hope of some remote control of your computer troubleshooting to try to get to the core of the issue. Chat Panels have been hard to come by for some of these issues, but let us try this route.
Please click on the following link
Contact Customer Care
Premiere Elements
Adobe ID and signing in
Adobe ID, sign in, and account help
Chat Panel
If the link does not hold its set, then you will need to navigate to the Chat Panel using the above titles as guides.
Depending on the outcome....if you purchased Premiere Elements 13 from Adobe direct within the last 30 days, you can request your
money back from Adobe. If you purchased elsewhere, then you are left to deal with the return policy of the seller.
We will be watching for further developments.
ATR

Two mac laptops, one iPhone and an iPod touch. Sync apps?

Hi there, between my wife and I, we have two Mac laptops, one iPhone and an iPod touch. The iPod touch is new- is it possible to get the apps that have already been purchased for the iPhone, onto the iTouch?

schmjorgen wrote:
but can i then only ever use both the iphone and itouch with that particular mac?
you can use home sharing to transfer media files (incl. apps) between the two Macs. if you and your wife use separate Apple ID's to purchase content, authorize the wife's machine for yours and yours for hers.
is there a way to make both portable devices work with both macs?
by design, iOS devices sync with only one library at a time.
i am hoping the "home sharing" feature will be the answer but so far i have not been able to make it work.
these links may prove helpful:
Setting up Home Sharing on your computer
Troubleshooting Home Sharing

Help! My Sony Ericsson T715A can no longer connect to my PC (Windows 7) in phone mode...

Sony Ericsson T715A: I can no longer connect in to my PC (Windows 7) in phone mode; so I can no longer sync contax, calendar, tasks etc. with MS Office Outlook. Also cannot back up phone, or
update software. Can only drag files out into Explorer folders. When I connect the phone, it has to be on. Instead of going right to phone/PC mode, I get a message on it saying "Phone functions are
not available in File Manager mode. Continue?" I say yes, whereupon the phone seems to restart, & then the Microsoft Autoplay folder comes up, or else I can find it in "devices and printers." R-
click the icon, "properties" Identifies it only as a generic Microsoft device. I tried running the computer troubleshooter on it, which came up w/nothing.
    After some period of time I will notice that the phone either rings and I can answer it, or it has stopped recharging, and the icon has disappeared from the PC.
    I had the 2007 version of PC Suite and PC Companion, and when I tried to install it on my 2010 PC w/ Windows 7 it said not compatible. I downloaded an update for that software from the SE site, but it didn't help. Then I ran the compatibility wizard in Windows 7 for PC Suite. Still no luck. I got a tip from an SE forum to uninstall all that software and download a certain package and start fresh. I am about to try that.
    Here is my question:
ALL T HIS TIME I have still been using the OLD SIM card from my SE ZZ710i in the newer phone. I figured it works; why not preserve the newer one from wear & tear as long as poss.
Now, it has been a while since I synched or backed up my phone. I hate to lose everything on it/the SIM card. If I install a whole new version of SE PC Suite, is it going to somehow overwrite or not work at all with my
old SIM card? Must I insert the NEW SIM 1st, & sacrifice whatever data is on the old one, before trying the new desktop software and updateing the phone?
As for updating the phone, which I realize wipes out data, it might be necessary.. I noticed in some Event log or other that some SE-related working file called EMMA was deleted recently, I don't know why. Anyone know anything about that?
Phew. The End. Here's hoping.
Message was edited by: Andifox

Dr Chris:
Thanx for answering my Q of a month ago. As you can see from my post of 18 minutes ago, things have gone from bad to worse under my neglectful eye.
To answer your answer:
a. I WAS using a NEW USB cord when I posed the question.
b. I've now downloaded the update service. I can try updating the phone from its File manager state. I'm just afraid whatever data is on it will get wiped, no?
Point of order:
If I've had an answer - or more than 1- to my question, but I still need to discuss it- should I Check the "Yes my question has been answered" box? I did not, here, because I thought it might result in my further questions dropping off the radar for forum experts. Please advise... \\Butter F

ITouch 5 is not recognized by Windows 7

Hi,
I bought a used iTouch 5th gen and charger cable and have spent the last 5 hours trying to get it to sync to iTunes. I had a 4th gen iPod that i lost a month ago that worked perfectly with my computer.
I have reconnected and restarted both devices several times, and only 2 times was windows able to recognize the device so that it showed up in iTunes. Otherwise, it gave me error 43: Device has malfunctioned or error 10: Device cannot start. Both times I finally got it to connect to iTunes, I tried to restore the new ipod from the backup from my old ipod, but it gets stuck at around 10% with "Time remaining: [absurdly high number of hours]". The iPod charges just fine when plugged into the wall and into the computer.
Things i have tried: re-installing/updating itunes, restarting computer, troubleshooting with Microsoft Fixit, trying with another computer, updated drivers.
I just want to put my apps and music from the old ipod to the new one. How can I fix this connection problem? Can I do it without syncing to iTunes?
This is my first time asking a question on here, so any help/redirection would be much appreciated!

You said " I tried to restore the new ipod from the backup from my old ipod, but it gets stuck at around 10% with "Time remaining: [absurdly high number of hours]".".
What was iTunes doing when it froze?
See what you missed here:
- Inspect the dock connector on the iPod for bent or missing contacts, foreign material, corroded contacts, broken, missing or cracked plastic.
iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows
- I would start with
Removing and Reinstalling iTunes, QuickTime, and other software components for Windows XP
or
Removing and reinstalling iTunes and other software components for Windows Vista, Windows 7, or Windows 8
Note the above is different that just reinstall iTunes
However, after your remove the Apple software components also remove the iCloud Control Panel via Windows Programs and Features app in the Window Control Panel. Then reinstall all the Apple software components
- Then do the other actions of:
iOS: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows
paying special attention to item #5
- New cable and different USB port
- Run this and see if the results help with determine the cause
iTunes for Windows: Device Sync Tests
Also see:
iPod not recognised by windows iTunes
Troubleshooting issues with iTunes for Windows updates
- Try on another computer to help determine if computer or iPod problem

New Member: Blue Screen of Death on Toshiba Satellite

Toshiba Satellite L655-S5106
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
Received brand new 3 years ago but rarely used. About 6 months ago, I received what most people are calling the BSOD. Never bothered to fix it at that time, but occasionally searched the internet for all the possible solutions. Still BSOD. Purchased from Toshiba the Recovery Media for the L650 Series (3-disc set). Inserted Disc 1 and tried to boot from CD. pressing "C" key. Still BSOD. For no reason, tried the F2, F8, F10, F12, and "0" key as well but still BSOD.
Don't know if this info is relevant or not, but the BSOD or trouble happened after the computer ran out of power while unattended with a DVD in the drive.
Also, (irrelevant or not) when trying to reboot laptop using "F" keys or "0", the laptop will turn on, fan will turn on, and then fan will turn off immediately. With the Recovery media in the drive, the fan turns on and stays on, but still BSOD. Same thing happens whether the battery pack is connected or not.
Very little knowledge with Windows OS and computers. Didn't know at the time 3 years ago that the OS was already installed and came without CDs, and didn't know that I had to make a recovery CD in case of situations like these.
What is my next move? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Here are some things to start with from the forum knowledge base:
Stop (Blue / Black Screen) Errors - Windows 7 go here : http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Computer-Troubleshooting/Stop-Blue-Black-Screen-Errors-Windows-7/ta-p/3...
What can I do if my Windows 7 or Windows Vista laptop won't start? : http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Computer-Troubleshooting/What-can-I-do-if-my-Windows-7-or-Windows-Vista...
Then let us know what you have tried and tested so we can get a better idea of what it is.
S70-ABT2N22 Windows 7 Pro & 8.1Pro, C55-A5180 Windows 8.1****Click on White “Kudos” STAR to say thanks!****

Can no longer scan with the HP Envy 4500

I can no longer scan documents with the HP Envy 4500. When I try to scan it times out and I receive the following error message:
"Scanner communiocation cannot be established. Ensure your product is powered on, check the connection, and ensure your network is functioning properly. If these conditions are correct, restart the product and try scanning again." I use a wireles connection to the HP Envy 4500 and it is working fine as I can print documents with no issues. I ran the HP Print and Scan Doctor and it flagged the issue as a potential problem with the device driver. I uninstalled the HP software and downloaded the latest version from the HP site, installed it, and tha did not correct the problem. At this point, I am not sure what else to try and correct the problem. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

Thanks for getting back to me
If the printer will not make copies, the unit may have a "Scanner Failure", unfortunately, and resetting the router, or computer troubleshooting would not make a difference.
You can try a power reset on the printer, to see if that will help:
Power reset the printer:
Press the Power button to turn on the product.
With the product turned on, disconnect the power cord from the rear of the product.
Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet.
Wait at least 15 seconds.
Plug the power cord back into the wall outlet.
Reconnect the power cord to the rear of the product.
If the product does not turn on by itself, press the Power button to turn it on.
You can also try using a different wall outlet to see if this makes a difference.
If the problem continues, contact HP's Technical Support directly to discuss your printer replacement options, as you would require a new printer if there is a Scanner Failure.
Reach our technical support at 800-474-6836. If you live outside the US/Canada Region, please click the link below to get the support number for your region. http://www8.hp.com/us/en/contact-hp/ww-contact-us.html
Good luck to you!
R a i n b o w 7000I work on behalf of HP
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say
“Thanks” for helping!
Click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution!

What can I do if my Windows 7 or Windows Vista laptop won't start?

I have joined many forums in my short computer life. This is by far the best forum that I have been a part of. It really up sets me when people come on here and complain before they have even given any of the staff or advisors a chance to help them with their problem. What can I do if my Windows 7 or Vista laptop won't start.
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Computer-Troubleshooting/What-can-I-do-if-my-Windows-7-or-Windows-Vista...
This is a great tutorial. Step by step to get your PC up and running and a lot more.Seriosly, if you can't follow this tutorial, you shouldn't have a computer. There will times when this won't work and you will have hardware problems. There are some great people here on the forum that can help you find those problems also. I have tried all these recovery options; they work, and I love my Toshiba laptop. That's why I donate my time to help and that's why others here donate their time. I'm creating this message because I know Google will pick it up. Google picks up every thing
Dokie!!!
PS Try these!! http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-vista/What-to-do-if-Windows-wont-start-correctly
I Love my Satellite L775D-S7222 Laptop. Some days you're the windshield, Some days you're the bug. The Computer world is crazy. If you have answers to computer problems, pass them forward.

Hi!! You should try the recovery feature in W7. Some times it can be accessed through safe mode. On my model it's easier to use the system repair disc. You can find out how to create that here.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Create-a-system-repair-disc
You can learn how to use the system repair disc here.
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-use-a-system-repair-disc-to-restore-windows.html
These are basic things you need to know if your going to own a Toshiba laptop.
PS Some day I'm going to convince staff to make a sticky of these things; which would cut their work in half, but then I wouldn't have any thing to do.
Here's what the recovery looks like. You have 5 options to help you. The Dos option can really help if you are familiar with Dos. In Dos you can do a chkdsk---sfc /scannow--- and a whole lot more. Start with the Repair option first and work your way down.
I Love my Satellite L775D-S7222 Laptop. Some days you're the windshield, Some days you're the bug. The Computer world is crazy. If you have answers to computer problems, pass them forward.
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How to Use a System Repair Disc to Restore Windows 7

Hi ! Please start here!
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-use-a-system-repair-disc-to-restore-windows.html
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Computer-Troubleshooting/What-can-I-do-if-my-Windows-7-or-Windows-Vista...
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Windows-8-Knowledge-Base/What-can-I-do-if-my-Windows-8-laptop-won-t-sta...
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/ss/windows-7-startup-repair_2.htm
PS Please read all these links and then post back here with your complete model number found on the bottom of your laptop and complete information to what you have tried to get your PC working I would love to spoon feed everyone. It's just not possible.
Dokie!!
PS2 Now read this and see if any thing here helps.
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Computer-Troubleshooting/FYI-Recovery-to-Factory-Settings-Toshiba/td-p/...
I Love my Satellite L775D-S7222 Laptop. Some days you're the windshield, Some days you're the bug. The Computer world is crazy. If you have answers to computer problems, pass them forward.
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Hi! I found this on the form!
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/System-Recovery-and-Recovery/How-To-Understanding-System-Recovery-Optio...
I Love my Satellite L775D-S7222 Laptop. Some days you're the windshield, Some days you're the bug. The Computer world is crazy. If you have answers to computer problems, pass them forward.

Satellite P305 - DVD drive missing, Registry method attempted

My satellite P305 lost the DVD icon in the My Computer.
So I tried to fix it using the "Registry-Method" I've seen all over the forums, but it did not work as I only found a "lower" I think not sure the name But not the "higher" second registry value. So now I can't use my PC's DVD and I hope I can just reinstall the driver, even though I doubt it.
The computer troubleshooter said that the problem is that the registry file was corrupted or missing (before I attempted to fix it). I had been using a burner and burning a DVD that took a long time to end the 99% level, so I clicked to close the program thinking that the information was already encoded on the DVD and there is nothing left for the program to do but shutdown, but it didn't work and the program stayed frozen. The program I used was called Cheetah Burner, in case you are interested in knowing it. So I ejected the disc (maybe after control-alt-deleting it, not sure) and probably restarted the computer again, to see that the program had occurred.
So please tell me how to deal with this, fast. I need to solve this fast to continue working!!!
Thank you
Ash.

Hi Ash,
I think you mean the upper and lower filters in registry. Is that right?
Normally this should help regarding problems with CD/DVD drive but you have already tried this?!
In your case I would try to remove the CD/DVD drive from device manager (right click > uninstall). After restart the drive will be recognized again and maybe it works.
Furthermore you dont need another driver because its a part of OS. This driver cant be updated.
Another interesting thin: Can you boot from a disk?

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