Cryogenic SMS120C superconducting magnet power supply

Dear all,
has anyone here experience in accessing the aforementioned
"Cryogenic SMS120C superconducting magnet power supply"
over GPIB with LabView, and would be willing to give some hints / maybe
even share the code?
For details about the device, see the manufacturer website:
http://www.cryogenic.co.uk/products/electronics/power_supplies.asp
It seems to be pretty trivial to send commands to the power supply - "GPIB
Write" does the job and the device executes the commands (as can be seen
on its front panel). However I have not managed to get any status
information / command output back; when I do a subsequent "GPIB Read", I
always get only an empty line. ???
Thanks in advance for any hints;
best, Andreas
This message is transmitted using 100% recycled electrons.
Dr. Andreas K. Huettel tel. +31 15 27 88102 (univ.)
Molecular Electronics and Devices
Kavli Institute of Nanoscience Delft
Delft University of Technology [email protected]
PO Box 5046, 2600 GA Delft [email protected]
The Netherlands http://www.akhuettel.de/research/
Please use GNUPG or PGP for signed and encrypted email. My public key
can be found at http://www.akhuettel.de/pgp_key.php

Hi Andreas,
Since you have been successful in writing to the device, it appears that your communication is working properly. You may need to initiate a response or poll the device in order to read from it. In order to read, the device needs to switch into talk mode, and the computer into write. For specific information on this, as well as the exact communication protocol for your device, you will need to consult the user manual for the device.
You may also want to take a look at the following KnowledgeBase article, Why can I write to my GPIB device but cannot read back?
Regards,
Lauren L.
Applications Engineering
National Instruments

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Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

How to Replace Power Supply

I'm stuck with what I thought was going to be an easy job - compared to a G5 tower or an iMac.
I need to replace the power supply in my Mac Pro (2008) but I'm stuck at getting the small cover off. I've removed the metal plate that was under the optical drives (POV when looking through the side). But it seems there's a small cover for the power supply that's similar to the big processor cover for the liquid cooled G5 towers. I can't figure out how to remove that.
Does anyone have a link to a manual or take-apart guide for the Mac Pro?
Thanks!

Before you begin, open the computer, lay it on its side with the access side facing up, and remove
the following:
• Hard drives and hard drive carriers in drive bays 3 and 4
• Optical drive carrier and optical drives
• Any PCI Express cards that block access to the power supply mounting screws
1. Using a short-handled, magnetized 2.5 mm hex screwdriver, remove the four power supply
mounting screws from the bottom of the media shelf.
2. Depress the upper right corner of the power supply and slide the power supply toward the
front of the computer.
3. Lift the power supply a short distance and rest it on the edge of the enclosure.
4. Starting with the top connector and working down, disconnect the four connectors on the
power supply cable from the four connectors on the power harness cable. Note: You must release the locking latch on each power supply cable connector before detaching the connector.
5. Remove the power supply from the enclosure.
Replacing the Power Supply:
1. Rest the power supply on the edge of the enclosure so that its cable can reach the media
shelf divider. Note: The following four steps explain how to reconnect the power supply cable connectors with the power harness connectors. When the power harness connectors are in their original position in the media shelf divider, it is not possible to see where they mate with the power
supply cable connectors. Therefore, the next step shows how to temporarily remove the power harness connectors from the divider for a better line of sight.
2. Starting with the top connector and working down, release the four power harness cable
connectors from their openings in the media shelf divider. Note: Each connector has two locking latches that hold it to the divider. To release the connector, depress the bottom latch first and then the top latch. You may find a flat-blade screwdriver useful in depressing the latches.
3. Placing a hand on either side of the media shelf divider, thread the J1 connector on the power supply cable through the top connector opening in the media shelf divider and connect it to the PS1 connector on the power harness. Repeat for the other three power supply cable connectors.
4. Important: The first three connectors on the power supply cable are marked J1, J2, and J3; the fourth connector is not marked. The four connectors on the power harness cable are marked PS1, PS2, PS3, and PS4. You must connect J1 to PS1, J2 to PS2, etc.
5. Starting at the bottom connector and working up, depress the locking latches on each power harness connector and reinsert it into its opening in the media shelf divider. Important: Test that all power supply cable connectors and power harness connectors are fully seated by tugging on the cables on both sides of each of the four paired connectors.
6. Fold the power supply cable on the bottom of the power supply bay.
7.Lift the power supply and holding the power supply at an angle, llower it into the enclosure until its
upper right corner slides under the corner lip of the enclosure.
8. Slide the power supply toward the back of the computer as far as possible.
9. Make sure the power receptacle aligns with the opening in the enclosure’s back panel and
the four screw holes in the power supply align with the screw holes in the media shelf.
10. Replace the four power supply mounting screws.

Power Supply Cracked

I have a friend who has a power supply where the plastic around the magnetic connector that goes into that mac has cracked rendering the power supply useless as the magnetic connector is no longer attached. Is this in the realm of abuse or does anyone think she has a case to stop by an Apple Store and potentially get a replacement power supply?

All she can do is ask, next time she is near the Apple Store I will tell her to spend a few minutes and see if the store is willing to do anything. Worse case she is no worse off, best case she has a new power supply.

Power Supply switching

Hi,
I am not sure whether this is the correct forum to post this question but I think it may be a problem which may be common and someone may be able to help.
I am currently using a TTi TSX3510P DC power supply to drive a simple electro-magnet. One end of the windings goes to the positive and one to the negative of the supply (obviously) which allows me to ramp the current up through lab view to +10 amps crteating a magnetic field.The problem is I would now like to drive the current to -10 amps, the simple solution is to obviously switch the wires around on the supply but I wish to perform an automatic sweep utilising lab view from -10 to +10 amps. I am sure that there is circuitry out there to perform this operation. If anyone knows where and how to utilise this circuitry with labview I would be much obliged.
Thanks
Regards
Marc

You might want to check into NI's USB based DAQ. Since you are ramping using GPIB to control the supply I'm presuming that it is changing relatively slowly, which would allow the USB DAQ. I don't know what their price is in the UK, they start out around $245US with both analog and digital. You would also need a relay with: contacts rated at the maximum current expected, which should also be powered by a separate power supply and have its own driver circuitry (DAQ cards generally don't supply sufficient current to run relays directly). A US company, ELK products, makes a relay card with the appropriate circuitry, for about $20 US. I know that one model, ELK-924, has contacts rated to 7A @ 30VDC, I don't know if that is "hot switched" or just what they are rated for. I think hot switched as they have a separate 10A @125VAC rating. You would need a small 12V @~1A power supply to provide it with power (a "Wall Wart" supply should be fine), but it only requires the control signal to supply 1.2mA, with most DAQ digital I/O capabilities. You would need to be careful not to switch the relay while the electromagnets full current was flowing, the field collapse would generate a large voltage/current across the relay's contacts. The normal method of putting a reverse diode across the windings wouldn't work with your required polarity reversals.
Hope this helps,
P.M.
Putnam
Certified LabVIEW Developer
Senior Test Engineer
Currently using LV 6.1-LabVIEW 2012, RT8.5
LabVIEW Champion

Power supply and cursor

Hi
My old trusty Macbook now got some problems. First of all the power supply cable with magnet seems to have great contact, but the led does not show any light. Suddenly, and after some movements from side to side it might work again. A bit strange I guess? Do I need to buy a new power supply or what? I can not see how this should work, since it seems that the power supply itself is ok?
The cursor on the screen is sometimes very unstable as well and moves around itself and pop up a lot of things just by itself. Any suggestions?
I love my old Mac and honestly I like the old plastic design rather that the hightech aluminium. So I would like to keep my Mac for some time again.
Best regards
N

You will need to have ensure that the RAID controller enabled in the BIOS for you to be able to invoke the Storage manager.
You may have dinked the RAID array when you changed the RAID setting.
Maybe you will get lucky and still be able to rebuild the array.
regards,
erico
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

Re: Power Supply Problems/ Bad Design

The moderator of this site seems to think that any external power supply can have the same problems as apple powerbook supply. "Not so", say I ! Most PC notebooks and yes, I do use them, have a fairly sturdy cord on both sides of the connection. Should one find oneself in a situation without a power supply for a pc notebook it is usually possible to get one from a local Radio Shack or international electrical store. Not so with apple powerbooks. the connections are specifically apple and although there ae a few generic replacement PSU they are not generally available only from mac speciality stores. Why apple decides to design what is obviously a flimsy (my electrical gaffer on my movie looked at it and just laughed)and possibly dangerous device is beyond me. It occurs to me that with all the innovative design apple has come up with in the past has gone to the designer's heads. Now we are faced with a 'magnetic' connector on the new powerbook pro line. Are you kidding apple ? Please just give us a simple, generic power supply and conmnector so that we travellers can rest in peace knowing we can replace the PSU anywhere in the world.
BTW my PSU was smoking and sparking when I awoke in my hotel room until it just gave up.
PBG4 1.25MHZ Mac OS X (10.3.7)

Two alternative power adapter manufacturers:
http://www.lindelectronics.com/cgi-bin/store/shop.cgi/!ORDERID!/ACAdapters/Apple/dbx_gen_mfg_ACAdapters?industry=
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/APLN2M/
The most common issues people have with Apple's adapters that I've seen are (not that this applies to you, but perhaps one will refer to something you've done that you didn't realize could cause harm):
1. They pull by the cord and not the bulb.
2. They push in without looking.
3. They let the cord bend at the bulb or at the brick. Give it at least two inches of slack.
4. They don't remove the plastic wrapping that is clear from the brick when they first get it. This under the wrong conditions could create an overheating condition.
5. They rely on unreliable power sources. Some older houses have issues with giving reliable power to outlets. Using a backup battery surge protector like those from APC can help.
By the way, my father's Dell power adapter had to be replaced too. Non-Apple notebook power adapters are actually more flimsy than you give them credit for. Part of the problem is designing the transformer to be in such a compressed space that is lightweight too. Until people don't mind the extra weight of a full fledged desktop power supply inside a notebook, thus allowing standard power cables, or a room temperature superconductor is invented, this will be a persistent issue. Take good care of your cords, and don't let them bend so much that they fray.
I might add, I went to Radio Shack, and they had the parts for me to build a power adapter for my Powerbook. Unfortunately the transformer brick would have been 3 times as large and as heavy.

Old power supply does not fit new MBP

I recently got a new MBP to replace a 2011 unit that went bad. The wife also have a 2007 MBP. Over the years I have accumulated four 85 watt power supplies with the magnetic catch. Magsafe I believe they call it.
I keep one on my desk at the office and one on the desk at my home. I don't even have to take the new one out of the bag.
Imagine my surprise when I tried to attach one of the old power supplies to my new 2014 MBP. It didn't fit. The new computer is thinner than the old ones and the mag connector is not as wide (or tall if you consider the angle it sits at).
After pondering the situation for a while and staring at the connectors, it dawned on me that the electrical connections and local area around them are identical. What is different is the thickness of the surrounding metal rim.
I took one of the old power supplies along with the new one out to my shop and milled .028" (28 thousandths, or 28 mils) off each side of the old connector. Voilá, it worked perfectly. The two modified units now are back in place on the two desks and my new power supply is safely tucked in my carrying bag for use when I am "out".

Should the trip to the shop prove to be tiring, you may get one of these instead:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MD504ZM/A/magsafe-to-magsafe-2-converter
Ciao.

I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug. Cold now. Could it just be the power supply? Can I replace that myself?

This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box.
I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica. Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house. I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip. There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
First questions: Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
Next question: Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service? How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder. I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook. My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed. I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
Thanks for any help you can give.

Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU power supply problem

Hello !
I am a lucky owner of MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU motherboard but have one problem. My power supply Fortron (FSP Group) 300-GT 300W seems to have some kind of incompatibility with this motherboard. In my case, the computer can't be shutted down by software. With BIOS version 2.5 it was impossible to shut it down with button too. With 2.6 it is possible to turn the computer off by button but software shutdown still don't work. PSU is working on ALL other boards I have tested so far normally. Somewhere in discussions (not in this forums) I discovered that also some kind of weird sounds occurs with Fortron supply on this board and that it is incompatible. Have anyone some clues to solve this PSU problem ? I am not able momentally to buy some other kind of PSU because Fortron is the only brand from higher category to obtain, so I would be like to solve this.....
Thanks for any info !

Voltage readings from sensors (current data):
w83697hf-isa-0290
Adapter: ISA adapter
Algorithm: ISA algorithm
VCore: +1.76 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +0.00 V)
+3.3V: +3.34 V (min = +2.97 V, max = +3.63 V)
+5V: +4.89 V (min = +4.50 V, max = +5.48 V)
+12V: +11.89 V (min = +10.79 V, max = +13.11 V)
-12V: -12.44 V (min = -13.21 V, max = -10.90 V)
-5V: -5.01 V (min = -5.51 V, max = -4.51 V)
V5SB: +5.51 V (min = +4.50 V, max = +5.48 V)
VBat: +3.42 V (min = +2.70 V, max = +3.29 V)
fan1: 4560 RPM (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
fan2: 2033 RPM (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
temp1: +40°C (limit = +60°C) sensor = thermistor
temp2: +44.5°C (limit = +60°C, hysteresis = +50°C) sensor = thermistor
PSU is powering Athlon XP 1700+ processor, the other big power consumer is GeForce4 Ti 4200 GPU. I am not able read currents for specific voltage outputs, so I am not able to measure whole power consumption. Computer is working normally, it is NOT overclocked (but it is stable overclocked too) and the only problem is PSU shutdown by software (win & linux, both of them has this problem). From BIOS v2.6 it is possible to shutdown the computer by power button. If it is tried by software, computer resets itself and three beeps occurs.

Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

Hello!
I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required).
Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
Thanks!
Nathan

Quote
Originally posted by thegrommit
That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct? It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
[edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset. Are you sure that's the correct number?
No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

MAC Pro 2.66 quad core Intel Xeon Power supply

Does any one perhaps know how many watts this MAC's power supply is ?
Can not find it anyware.
Thanks
Freddie

Thank you
Freddie

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Power supply dead? Can I get at the Hard drive?

I recently had a storm which blew one of my external firewire drives (it goes on but won't mount) and when I tried using my older G4 (Quicksilver, with OS10.3.9, and Classic) to boot up in OS9 and try my Norton Utilities, the G4 froze. It did it several times. I eventually pulled the power cord. When I plugged it back it, there was a spark (at the plug in point on the G4, not the wall outlet. Since then, it won't power up.
I tried booting it up in firewire disk mode and using my Intel MacPro, but no dice.
I did a search and have seen discussion on what sounds like my same problem. I hold the power button and the light goes on, but goes right off as soon as I let go.
I tried pressing the PMU; I saw a lot of discussion about the CUDA button but it seems these are one and the same thing. I removed the small battery and tried to get a replacement but have not succeeded as yet. Though I don't think that's the problem. It might be the power supply.
Anyway, here's my question: can I use the power supply and/or battery from an even older Mac, a PPC 8600?
And, whether or not that works, can I yank the hard drive from my G4, along with a second internal drive I put in (slave) in order to get data of it? (I'll give up trying to fix the G$ itself if I can just get my files off it.
*While I'm at it, can I take apart the external firewire drive that won't mount, and get at the files on that in some way. I tried Data Rescue ll but the drive still would not mount so that was useless.
Any help on any of these will be greatly appreciated. (Yes, I do have a nice big powerful UPS but the G4 and the external were no plugged in to it).
Thanks
noodle--head grrum...PY

Hi-
To recover your hard drives and data (including the external) get yourself a housing, and insert a drive, and move data to a different computer.
You'll want a firewire external housing with the Oxford chipset. I can recommend any of the FW or FW combo housings by OWC on the following page:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/add-ons-and-hubs/enclosure-kits
You will need a QS power supply-others won't work.
If you end up wanting a power supply for the QS, check eBay, or the following:
http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART
http://hardcoremac.stores.yahoo.net/pog4quposu34.html
As for the battery, as long as it is the same 3.6v and form factor, any will do:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
The Radio Shack P/N is 23-026.
G4AGP(450)Sawtooth, 2ghz PowerLogix, 2gbRAM, 300gbSATA+160gbATA, ATI Radeon 9800 Mac OS X (10.4.8) Pioneer DVR-109, ExtHD 160gb x2, 23"Cinema Display, Ratoc USB2.0, Nikon Coolscan

Do I need to replace video graphic card or power supply unit on hp compaq presario sr2180nx

hello all
i saw a similar post over 4 years ago, however it doesn't address my issue.
my pc started stalling when i attempt to turn it on. It wouldn't come on. Then after several tries every now and then it would come on. I was told through searching that it could be the video graphic card or the power supply. Therefore once i had the computer back on. I never shut it off. However, i could reboot and it would come on.
Now it won't come on again. So i don't know what to replace. The video graphic card or the power supply. If it is the graphic card, do i replace the one previously installed or add a new one. And if adding a new one, what is recommended to be compatible with my 300 watt supply unit? I'm lost as what route to take and how.Below are the details of my unit.
HP/Compaq Presario SR2180NX desktop PC with a P5LP-LE motherboard with an Integrated graphics using Intel GMA 950.
*Integrated video is not available if a graphics card is installed.
Also supports PCI Express x16 graphics cards
300 watt supply.
thank you in advance for any help you can give me.

Is there an add-in video card in the slot? If so, remove it and try to turn on. If the problem is the video card it will turn on. If not it is the power supply.

Cryogenic SMS120C superconducting magnet power supply

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