Deadlocked Schedulers - HADR Mirroring High Safety

Sql Server - Sql Server 2008 R2 Standard 10.50.4000
OS - Windows Server 2008 R2 Standard
CPU - Processor(s):              2 Processor(s)
Installed. => 32 Thread... MAX worker thread 960
Memory – 32 GB, Sql Server allocated 22 GB.
MAXDOP -1, which was like that for last one year.
Session Count - 1800+ but active one at a time remain not more than 30 or 50...
As per MS engineer 985 Total threads, 883 are stuck in below function
0000000077a82aaa ntdll!ZwSignalAndWaitForSingleObject+0xa             
    0000000077882da0 kernel32!SignalObjectAndWait+0x110                   
    0000000000215288 sqlservr!SOS_Scheduler::Switch+0x181                 
    000000000021313e sqlservr!SOS_Scheduler::SuspendNonPreemptive+0xca    
    0000000000212890 sqlservr!SOS_Scheduler::Suspend+0x2d                 
    00000000002129bc sqlservr!EventInternal<Spinlock<154,1,0> >::Wait+0x1a8
    00000000022db1ad sqlservr!ReleaseSpinlockAndWaitOnAddressX+0x41       
    00000000025d9b42 sqlservr!LsMgr::WaitForHardenedLsn+0x3d2             
    00000000025b2938 sqlservr!DBMirroring::WaitForHardenedLsn+0x4c        
    0000000000ab295c sqlservr!XdesRMFull::Commit+0x4c8                    
    00000000007e6ed9 sqlservr!XactRM::SinglePhaseCommit+0x184             
    000000000077c2c9 sqlservr!XactRM::CommitInternal+0x3e3                
    000000000077c0f0 sqlservr!FullXactImp::Commit+0x328                   
    000000000079f36f sqlservr!CMsqlXactInternalBase::CommitInternal+0x27  
    00000000007dac66 sqlservr!CMsqlXactInternalReadWrite::Commit+0x16     
    000000000079f2ec sqlservr!CMsqlXactImp::Commit+0x10a                  
    00000000006d987a sqlservr!CXStmtDML::FinishNormalImp+0x3d             
    00000000016b87f0 sqlservr!CMsqlExecContext::ExecuteStmts<1,0>+0x157c  
    000000000087be96 sqlservr!CMsqlExecContext::FExecute+0x9a3            
    000000000079ac8c sqlservr!CSQLSource::Execute+0x7b5                   
    00000000017145bc sqlservr!CStmtExecProc::XretLocalExec+0x24c          
    0000000001713f16 sqlservr!CStmtExecProc::XretExecExecute+0x416        
    0000000001711f25 sqlservr!CXStmtExecProc::XretExecute+0x19            
    00000000016b8075 sqlservr!CMsqlExecContext::ExecuteStmts<1,0>+0xe01   
    000000000087be96 sqlservr!CMsqlExecContext::FExecute+0x9a3            
    000000000079ac8c sqlservr!CSQLSource::Execute+0x7b5                   
    000000000079c800 sqlservr!process_request+0x64b                       
    0000000000743dc6 sqlservr!process_commands+0x4e5                      
    000000000021ab94 sqlservr!SOS_Task::Param::Execute+0x12a              
    000000000021b05e sqlservr!SOS_Scheduler::RunTask+0x96                 
    000000000021ad57 sqlservr!SOS_Scheduler::ProcessTasks+0x128           
    00000000006f51de sqlservr!SchedulerManager::WorkerEntryPoint+0x2d2    
    00000000006f5395 sqlservr!SystemThread::RunWorker+0xcc                
    00000000006f8925 sqlservr!SystemThreadDispatcher::ProcessWorker+0x2db 
    00000000006f59d6 sqlservr!SchedulerManager::ThreadEntryPoint+0x173    
    00000000749637d7 msvcr80!_callthreadstartex+0x17                      
    0000000074963894 msvcr80!_threadstartex+0x84                          
    000000007782652d kernel32!BaseThreadInitThunk+0xd                     
    0000000077a5c521 ntdll!RtlUserThreadStart+0x1d                        
Below is the one they are highlighting, some latency caused threads to stack up, Any idea? Looking for anyone experienced similar scheduler deadlock
00000000025d9b42 sqlservr!LsMgr::WaitForHardenedLsn+0x3d2             
00000000025b2938 sqlservr!DBMirroring::WaitForHardenedLsn+0x4c 
Thanks,
-SreejitG

SreejitG
I'm curious to know why the system is setup for high safety?  Essentially, what High Safety is saying is the transactions cannot return scope to the application until the commit has been hardened in the log on the mirror database server.  The end
result is whatever transaction the application attempts to commit against the primary, it will try to commit on the mirror as well, prior to sending an Ack back to the caller.   What can go wrong?  Well, if the mirror server is slow for any
reason, or the wire speed latency is large for any reason, the primary application will slow down.  Essentially, what the above is telling you is that there's something going on at the mirror database or server that is slower than the primary server,
and it's waiting, and waiting to be able to return to the caller. 
That said, is there a great latency between the two servers?  Is the mirror committed to another activity?  If you turn off high safety and use asyc-transactions you'll see this go away.  If you need zero data loss, and have this as a
failover, then fix the problems occurring on the mirror server.
Good luck. 

Similar Messages

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    Hello Team,
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    Chetan

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    Please mark this reply as answer if it solved your issue or vote as helpful if it helped so that other forum members can benefit from it
    My Technet Wiki Article
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    This is common with Mirroring server it is not as resilient to changes as log shipping. Are you aware about
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    Please Mark This As Answer if it helps to solve the issue
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    CompTIA A+ ,Microsoft MCP, MCTS, MCSA, MCITP
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  • Upgrade using Db mirroring

    Hi Everyone,
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    Hi,
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    Please mark this reply as answer if it solved your issue or vote as helpful if it helped so that other forum members can benefit from it.
    My TechNet Wiki Articles

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    70000050e85efb8 10283 package body FLOWS_030100.WWV_FLOW
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    almost everything in your computer uses 12v except ram (3.3V)
    AMD 64 and motherboard =12a @12V
    so your already at 12A with no fan,s no hd, no CD,no DVD ,no mobo chip-set , no mem, no sound..etc  
    so what happens is your mem gets starved for power and then gives out errors,in your data, which = corrupt sata,or it fails to post. .
    MEMMORY...Another big trouble spot,not just with the MSI board but with Via chip-set, and or the A64 memory controller.
    DDR non ecc- single channel 400 is baseline although slower chips also work, The CPU's memory unit only supports 4 banks total so in order to use three sockets at least two of the memory sticks have to be 1 bank,.one bank or two bank chips look similar so check specs, dual bank chips usually have chips on the back as well. mem should match type and speed. if you run into problems try going into bios and limiting ram to 333.mem should match type and speed.
    (edited out till i find more info [STRIKEOUT] if using two mem sticks it is best to use slots 1 and 3,[/STRIKEOUT])
    edit :ok tiresmoke just replied so have a look. "One thing that often does not get addressed. I had a couple Blue Screens early on. Here is how I fixed it. I run my RAM in sockets 1 and 3. 1 and 2 gave a little instability.Yes I decided to keep mine in slot 1/3 but I did test in 1/2 since I changed Bios. Typically slot 1/3 can slow you down but it did not with mine so best to say that difference RAM will give different symptoms. Try combinations to find what works best for you."
    LOL Keep in mind that Jocko uses 3 sticks of dual bank RAM and according to AMD they only support 4 banks total. Jocko has 6 so you do the math.
    you can check msi's website for compatible ram, but be careful it can be confusing,
    they list by part numbers,
    but some known configurations that work are:
    I would stay away from corsair xms mem right now many people have problems.
    corsair and kingston owners may want to look here
    AMD 3000+ systems...
    BIOS 1.2
    2 x 512 - Corsair CMX DDR400 @2-3-2-5
    2 x 512 - Corsair Twin Pro DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    2 x 512 - Corsair Value Select DDR400 @ defaults
    1 x 512 - Geil Golden Dragon DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6 (2.7V)
    2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Kingmax DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Kingston DDR400 @ 3-3-3-8
    1 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    1 x 512 - Kingston ValueRam (KVR400X64C3A) DDR400? @ (Defaults?)
    2 x 512 - Muskin Level 1 DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    2 x 512 - Muskin Level 2 DDR433 @ (defaults?)
    2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
    1 x 1024 - OCZ EL DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    BIOS 1.3b2
    2 x 512 OCZ EL DDR433 @ 2-3-3-7
    AMD 3200+ systems...
    BIOS 1.1
    2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 1 Black DDR433 @ 2.5-3-3-6
    BIOS 1.2
    2 x 512 - Apacer DDR400 @ 3-4-4-8 (2.5v)
    2 x 512 - Corsair Twin X DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    1 x 1024 - Corsair TwinX DDR400 @ 2-3-2-6
    2 x 512 - Crucial DDR400 @ defaults
    2 x 512 - Elixer OEM DDR400 @ defaults
    1 x 1024 - GeIL GoldenDragon DDR400? @ defaults
    2 x 512 - Geil Value Series 512MB DDR 2.5-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Hynix DDR400 @ 2-3-3-6
    2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX KX DDR433 @ 2-3-3-8
    2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    2 x 512 - Kingston HyperX DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-8
    2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5 (2.75V)
    2 x 256 - Mushkin Level 2 DDR400 @ 2-2-2-5
    2 x 256 + 1 x 512 - Muskin Basic DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    2 x 512 - Twinx CLPRO DDR400 @ (defaults?)
    2x512- Pny Verto DDR433 @defualts
    AMD 3400+ systems...
    BIOS 1.2
    2 x 512 - Kingmax (MPXC22D-38KT3R) DDR400 @ defaults
    2 x 512 - Mushkin Level 2 Black DDR433 @ 2-3-2-5
    you may have to email you mem manufacturer and manually set timings and voltages to get your memory working.
    HARD DRIVES......Here you have alot of choices, basically two categories, SATA and PATA(IDE). There are many brands and speeds, IDE drives come in different speeds, such as ata33, ata66, ata 100, ata 133 for hard drives, the 33,100,133, being theoretical maximum transfer rating MB/sec.
    newer ata(IDE)hard drives are ata100 which is ultra 5, and ata133 ,ultra6 is ,
    PIO mode is the standard data transfer mode without the ultra enhancements, the fastest being 16.66 mb/sec. ultra 2 is 33 mb/sec . So when i say my CD,DVD, and DVD are ultra 2 it means they transfer at a maximum of 33 mb/sec, and my Maxtor hardrives are ultra 6 and have a maximum transfer of133 mb/sec. my old zip100 transfers at a max of 16 mb/sec since its in pio mode. Note these are maximum speeds, my hardrive transfers more like 65 mb/sec sustained according to SIS Sandra.
    That is why SATA 150 is such a big deal, vs say a Western digital ata100
    SATA is a different interface all together and can transfers closer to its maximum
    theoretical speed. BUT the pci bus itself is limited to 133 mb/sec so an add-on card
    should never be able to reach over 133, regardless, of SCSI,IDE, or SATA
    so on the k8t neo you have some choices. With the IDE you can use, IDE1,2, or 3
    IDE1&2 are ata100. ) to attach use a 80pin round or flat cable, the first slot goes into the mobo, the middle connector is for a slave or should be left empty, use the end for master, or single drive. you must also setup jumpers for hd or cds.
    The master is primary unit and the slave is secondary unit, for each channel.
    Or use the Cable Select jumper and USUALLY the BIOS will select the drive for you.
    IDE1 & 2 is ata100, or 133 depending on board if using for only 2 drives put them on different channels
    ...ie master on IDE 1, and master on IDE 2 . that way they will have maximum bandwidth. especially for disk to disk copies or burning
    IDE3 RAID is ata133, or can be raid 0 or 1 by the promise chip. 0 being striped for performance,1 being mirrored for safety, mirror only protects hd from failure,not viruses,or corruption for that you need a backup or as i prefer a drive image program such as accronis trueimage..linux compatible.and Norton ghost.you will first have to enable the promise chip in the bios, then you have to load drivers by hitting F6 during windows installation, and insert floppy drive, yes you will need a floppy, at least for initial setup. If you want to set up raid you will have to do that first before loading windows,by hitting ctrl+F  (read quick user's guide Serial ata raid, serial ata) only hd's can use ide3.If you don't have enough IDE slots you can add on pci card with one or two more headers for up to 4 more drives, I added a Maxtor ultra ata133, since i have 5 idehd's and 3 DVD/cds.
    SATA, here you have two choices, use the Promise chip set or the Via. Either one or both can be set to raid0 or 1, see users guide to setup, You will also have to enable them first in bios, and F6 and load floppy drivers to use in windows install, or load drivers in windows if using an existing install. either chip-set can be set for raid, in the manual, opinions are that the Via is faster, but you wont have a HD LED activity indicator light, The promise will have a HD light, but is slightly slower.
    Also note that SATAs don't OC as well as IDE hard drives, they can even crash and loose data.
    always make a backup of your computer, and remember raid 1 does nothing for virus, or contaminated installs.
    SOUND....Here you have a few choices, On board or Card, unfortunately not both, yet.(UPDATE Bios Version 1.5 and above will fix this)... If using a card there have been some issues with Audigy 1 cards, but there may be a cure in this threadhttps://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46849&sid=( Moved to stickies) audigy2 and 2zs cards work fine as do turtle beach.
    on-board sound is not as high definition and uses some CPU cycles, so a card might be advantageous to gamers.
    REALTEK GIGABIT...Is the on-board Ethernet, you will need to load drivers once in windows, it has caused some problems booting, as it can be set to a boot device as well. you will get a message "failed to boot press any key."..then "ntdlr error"...to fix this you may need to hit the key combination during boot to set it up, it will bring you to a menu, you need to set boot order, i recommend setting it to bios, and you can adjust or disable message and time length it is displayed.
    VIDEO CARDS-  You should install an agp 8x directx9 video card for best performance. Ati has better directx support so is better for gaming, but Nvida has better OpenGL so if you want to do 3d in Linux, you have better luck with Nvida.
    When you set up windows, install via 4-1 drivers first, then the video drivers, check video manufacturer's website for updated drivers. make sure any extra power leads are plugged in. In bios Agp should be  fast write enabled, and
    if you are using 1024 of ram aperture size to 256, but check 3dmark to see which setting is faster.
    BIOS- NO BIOS INSTALLED This is a message that you see during boot up from the promise on-board raid saying that it found no drives attached to its SATA or IDE channels so it's not installed the BIOS.This IS NOT a problem or anything to worry about!
    jumping Bios reset jumper, be careful, make sure power is off.  jump it and return it to the original position. If you power on with jumper in reset position you can erase your bios...requiring a Return to Manufacturer Authorization(RMA)
    I have had no problems using windows updating to the latest bios ,It cured some issues, such as firewire ports, sound blaster audigy1 troubles,tweaked temps displayed,and so on. but be sure to have a backup of original bios disk. I have heard new 1.8 beta bios cures Newcastle temp problems.
    some good settings are.. SMART enabled this will warn you of hard disk failure,System bios cacheble and shadow ram are more for older computers and should be set to disable.boot to os2- disable...memory setting vary by card and some even need to be set manually so check with manufacturer or get familiar with cmos reset jumper.(just be sure to have power off)...plug and play os to disable(more of a win 98 thing) disable serials and parallel ports if you don't need them, as with on-board sound firewire etc. this is just a few pointers the rest is a more personal thing, but i have heard turbo setting causes problems and is best left to fast, and dynamic oc'ing is similar use at your own risk
    USB keyboard don't forget to enable USB in the BIOS. This caused some problems when installing XP. Without USB enabled in BIOS when you come to the "Hit any key to proceed" the install will fail with the ntldr error
    POWER SAVINGS...Having trouble getting fans or case lights to shut off on standby set to S3, then disable apm, and be sure to set a wakeup event..such as wake from usb, or keyboard command. I have agp boot disable, but depends on card.
    Want to know more about bios, and what those settings are? click this link
    http://www.rojakpot.com/(eb1mg5zatgcf5r55lv5no155)/default.aspx?location=9
    CORE CENTER....Another personal choice, I like it and use it a lot, to increase and decrease fsb without going through bios. the NB fan sensor should read 0 unless you plug a fan onto it, personally i have an 80mm antec and it doesn't read it, but i tried a old CPU fan and it worked fine.
    COOL AND QUIET Another personal choice, I don't use it because some people have had there CPUs power down in the middle of games, and such
    (it goes down to 800 MHz) others had small bugs in there system that went away when they disabled it. But some like it and use it a lot. Good for energy savings.
    want to get your boot time down
    start by selecting  OS drive as first in boot sequence, you can always change bios when you want to boot from floppy or CD(which isn't often).disable floppy drive seek
    then clean out your startup folder under rt click explore start button.
    try and get services set to auto down to about 25. defrag your hdrive routinely,
    . ditch wall paper, and get rid of windows startup screen.(msconfig,boot.ini.and check noguiboot). keep your drivers updated
    if you can find it you can use then try bootvis, but microsoft doesn't support it anymore.Programs ..some useful free utilities are listed below, check goggle, until i make links for them.
    SiS Sandrahttp://www.sisoftware.net/, a good all around benchmark,burn in and, info display
    3DMARK.http://www.futuremark.com/download/.Mostly a Video tester, good for checking OC though.
    Microsoft Memory testerms memtester
    +86memtest.http://www.memtest86.com/..and Prime95http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft.htmvery good mem testers, and tests for stability
    spybot search and destroy, http://www.safer-networking.org/index.php?page=homeand
    Lavasoft's ad-aware http://www.lavasoftusa.comgot to have for house cleaning.
    atitool, http://atitool.ocfaq.com/oc ap for ati cards,click find max core let it go for 15min or so,then set back to default, and click find max mem...for 15min or so, and now you have the max you can set your video card too.(but set safety limits before manually setting)
    [STRIKEOUT]mbm5 mbm5 link good alternative temp readings to corecenter.[/STRIKEOUT]
    good program but discontinued.
    OTHER USEFUL PROGRAMS
    Norton utilities, good all around disk and OS utility
    Norton Internet secuirity, or similar firewall and virus protector
    Norton ghost, or other drive image software fantastic for backups
    BF1942...lol just fun
    HOME NETWORKING I will add this part because of additional posing of errors
    dealing with USB Broadband routers...try using on board realtek or other Ethernet connection it will save your sanity.
    well i have a real poor mans router setup for you
    2 Ethernet slots, one for for broadband router and one to share.
    if you only want one other computer, use a crossover cable, otherwise, use a hub or switch(better) and let Internet connection wizard and home networking on your machines work their magic,want a firewall download some software there are even, fairly decent free ones.the speed of the card isn't important because broadband still isn't over 10mb/sec yet, so blow the dust off that card in the closet and put it to work.or if your really brave or really cheap you can try to use the usb input from broadband, and on board ether, or firewire port, to link computers
    Trouble shooting
    for total no boot/post failure
    I know you may know how to build a  computer, and i know this is basic, so bear with me here, but at this point you have to do a methodical by the book check list.
    revision
    A: when you first install your motherboard make sure it does not contact case,
    use all nine mounting points, make sure that your case either has built in risers, or use the small brass standoffs, and don't forget the fiber washers.
    when you installed your CPU you:
    1 ___you properly handle equipment so no static damage can occur, (properly grounded)
    2____.you fully lift the CPU ziff socket arm up, orient the gold triangle marking arrow,pins and it easily dropped into socket, with no bent pins ,
    3 ___ backer plate mounted carefully no missing pieces of the board flying off, ( i have seen people launch capacitors, and the like )
    4 ____obviously you removed the plastic thermal pad cover, and heatsink was evenly locked down, and fully seated, and correctly plugged into mobo cpufan1.
    and you fully removed old thermal pad/grease and applied new artic silver, or new heatsink with plastic on pad,you didn't reuse old paste or pad.
    memory
    5 _____memory stick(not sticks, at this point you just want to get it working, not full blast with a gig of ram etc)is fully seated and properly oriented in slot, and is 184 pin ddr non-registered , non ecc ram , and you have tried different non corsair, non twinmoss, brands that have been known to work. and/ or
    tried to set manually mem speed/voltage for some models of corsair, twinmoss, and kingston)
    6.____ plug in only power switch pins 6,8and power led to jfp1, pins 2,4 and they are turned correctly,
    7. ____your new psu has the 20 pin and square 4 pin power connector plugged in to jpw1 turned right and fully seated. and has  a bare min of 18a on 12v+ rail.
    8 ____your video card is fully seated an locked down,also securely screwed in.
    9 ____your floppy drive cable iss facing right way (pin1 is matched with red stripe)
    10. ____you have ata cables for hd and CD set to master/slave or cs. with hard drive set as master, end of cable.
    11 _____the power plugs are all fully seated, including psu rear plug,floppy ,hd, and CD.
    12. _____keyboard(ps2) and mouse plugged in, monitor plugged into video card,
    13 ______every thing is fully secured in case, side cover is off.
    14 ______CMOS jumper is set 1,2 keep data, all usb stuff is unplugged, except for dbracket.
    power it up, one beep, fans spin, in psu and CPU, and video card,
    you get no bios found error,(promise adapter not finding satas..no worries)
    or hit Del to go into bios, set boot order, and .......
    .........your now at the end of the road, and it should by all means work,
    now what i am after,
    there are no bent pins, on CPU, you reapplied artic silver paste.
    no loose wires,
    properly applied heat sink with fan cooling,
    you have tried different brands of known ,to work in an MSI k8tneo
    ddr ram 1 stick at a tme.
    you have tried different video cards, and in case of higher end card, the external molex power supply as plugged in,
    you have tried different ata hard drives
    you then have tried have set up your SATA drive correctly .
    everything is securely plugged in ..fully seated and oriented the right way?
    what are d-bracket error light, and any beep codes?
    you have tried a different wall outlet, you have changed surge protectors,
    you never hot plugged video cards, hd cables or power etc.
    i know this redundant , and basic , it is not meant to be insulting , it is meant to be a checklist and rule out all basic errors and potential problems
    if your mem bandwidth is slower then 3000..like 2400 this may help
    Received from a user - Slow memory 1T Command fix
    OK, here's what to do. Download the following ftp://ftp.vector.co.jp/pack/win95/hardware/other/wpcrs120.exe extract it, and run InstDD.exe. It'll ask to reboot, you don't need to do it right away, at least I didn't have to. Fire up WPCRSET.exe and do the following. Under startup, click on start, and under device, click enable. Now click add. The bus device and function will be 0,24, and 2. The register and data values will be the 93,08. There we have it! Enjoy everyone. I know I'm much happier now.  
    Here's a graphic to make it easier:
    I will add more by edit, or post as needed but i should post now so it can be put to use.
    I would like to Thank BAS,wonkaboy, Jocko, ethereal, Tiresmoke, Reilly, and the many others whose valued input helps solve problems.

    Quote
    amd 64=12a @12V
    ati 9800=7.5~10.5a @12V (assuming 90~125 watts) a max load,
    a 9600 ir nvida 5200 used far less power
    so your already at 18a with no fan,s no hd, no cd,no dvd ,no mobo chipset , no mem, no sound..etc
    If you exclude the motherboard, memory, etc like you did there, the amd 64 draws 7.2A @ 12V.
    90~125W for an ATI 9800?! [irony]Are you working for a PSU manufacturer or what?[/irony] That's just absurd.  
    Go read this post to get a feel for the actual power consumption: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?postid=297061&sid=#post297061

  • Site level failover

    scenario:
    2 datacenter with good connectivity. SQL 2012 principal and witness servers are placed in main site and mirroring server is place in DR site. high-safety mode with auto failover proposed.
    customer is asking what about the main site down? can force mirroring server continue to support the application (RMS2012) in DR site?
    Jason

    and what about after manually failover and then main site is up? there would be 2 principal sql servers.
    Jason
    When you do manual failover you run below commands to break mirroring. This will break mirroring and make Mirror online so now you dont have two principal as you dont have mirroring in place.
    ALTER DATABASE DB_NAME SET PARTNER OFF
    GO
    RESTORE DATABASE DB_NAME WITH RECOVERYGO
    Now when Previous principal comes online ( may be after couple of  hrs ) you reconfigure mirroring making original principal as mirror by taking backup from current server which is running( the mirror which is now running as principal failed )
    and restoring it on previous principal with norecovery and configure mirroring . Then do failover to make it principal( previous principal as principal)
    Please mark this reply as answer if it solved your issue or vote as helpful if it helped so that other forum members can benefit from it.
    My TechNet Wiki Articles

  • DB Status restoring, shutdown

    Hi,
    Anybody got any ideas why a DB in high safety and auto failover mode would have a mirror db status of "restoring, shutdown"?
    SQL server 2008 10.0.2531.0
    Rgds

    Yes always happening.
    You did not posted a single information from errorlog and like i said people would jump to conclusion about bug. it may be it may not be but please always try to provide as much information as possible otherwise your thread will loose attention.
    As already said aplying SP3 would be good idea but unfortunately SQL Server 2008 Sp4 has still not arrived.
    Please mark this reply as answer if it solved your issue or vote as helpful if it helped so that other forum members can benefit from it
    My Technet Articles
    Yep, my mistake Sp4 isn't available for SQL2008. Install up to SP3. People often neglect the importance of keeping their server updated, because they don't have a clue of how many serious bugs are corrected with each service pack release.
    As of posting all relevant information, if one doesn't post it the first time it is requested, then it is unlikely there will be an answer later. Its a sad reality we all need to get used to.

  • I am having major problems with the Flash Player Download

    I have downloaded it probably 12 times +. I have tried everything I know and keep coming back to the boards for more. I don't know what else to do. I have I/E 8. I use AVG 8.5. I use Net zero and their proprietary pop up blocker. I download 10.1.82.76. I have also downloaded the older version and tried that. I tried the manual download. I made sure AVG is off. My Internet setting is at Medium.I have CCleaner installed. The blocker is on.I do see the whirling F video and it say I have the corresponding download to the right, and that it was successfully downloaded. I go to my control panel and in there it shows the download manger actively installed with a quantity of size. It shows the Adobe Flash Player also installed at least in name, BUT there is no quantity displayed for the file size. So this tells me it is somewhere, but just not totally installed or stuck somewhere. I completely remove it each time I reload it And I restart before I redownload. As far as I remember I already had it operating a while ago and all of a sudden my game site wouldn't work on Facebook. So I troubleshot it. It said to download the latest version if the game won't start so I did. And that is when this whole download problem began, probably about a week and a half ago.I have Windows XP Pro in I believe 32 bit, but where it says to check it says 128 bit capable, I think was the word. I can't find specific 32 or 64 anywhere.XP version is several years old.and I don't have any brand new hardware. It is an ASUS board, top of the line back when. and no problems before. There is a raid system running. as the board was designed for it. And I run two mirrored high speed discs in SATA. but they are almost totally empty. They are Raptors.The board is a P5AD2 Deluxe. I just have 1 Gig or ram installed.I use a slow but usually reliable dial up download. I can't get high speed.I have another spyware blocker in the tray Zone Alarm, but I very seldom use it and keep it off most of the time and every time I have downloaded the Flash.In tools my Flash Object is enabled AND it shows the correct download version of Flash. Under Internet Properties/Advanced I don't know which to set where so I haven't changed any.........Well that's about all I can tell you that I remember I have tried. Now you can see what you can think of. I'm out and really ticked at this Adobe thing.
    I hope I can find my way back to these posts for the answers.

    Ok, but before I get involved with a lot of uninstall's, whereas you said that the earlier one didn't effect anything when it did, what is this going to effect and can I recover the deleted info or files if it doesn't work or causes problems as I say it did before?
    Second I never used a downloaded uninstaller before during any of my uninstall's. Just the one in the control panel listing included in the FP header and listed there. It appeared that it removed all of the FP info because as I said I went to the Start/search and looked for any Adobe FP items and found none. So I assumed I did a good job of clearing any FP before rebooting and re-downloading FP. So is that a yes or a no to start with?
    Third You, I guess it was you said that from what I told you FP is loaded and operating as it should. If so why would I do this (continue making changes) now, when apparently the problem is elsewhere? IF in fact it is, that is.
    Fourth. I received a reply from Facebook tech saying that IE8 does have some issues with their app's due to similar construction platforms or something to that effect (I saved the mail so I can quote it if necessary), and that I should try a bunch of these recommendations and see if they work, which I did not yet do.I just sort of gave up on their game and said screw it. If they can't provide software that works with current popular platforms then I don't need their software. And part of what they suggested was to change my browser. I am used to IE and really don't like changing things all the time just because there's something new. And many of the things available in Firefox and such, I probably don't have use for so why should I change to begin with. Anyway I wasn't really willing to change my browser to suit their software. But in another point, the game was working fine for quite a while with my original FP untill it just quit one day. And as I said I don't know of any changes I made to cause it. I didn't change browsers or download any other games or change ISP or change FP or modify how they ran as far as I know.
    Fifth. I received an e-mail from a girl who like me posted on here and while reading some of the posts before posting my self read hers. Our problem or complaint was quite similar and someone suggested that she use a different browser and she apparently did and it apparently because she emailed me and said that that was what worked for here. Again, I didn't persue that avenue.
    Sixth. But just FYI any of the seemingly similar games will still not work on the Facebook site for me because I downloaded a similar one to the one that didn't work and it did just as the other one was doing. and loaded all the way until the game picture loaded and stopped blank. So either I have a problem or bug or Facebook/Game supplier does. Maybe both.
    So please answer these before I just go off and make changes I can't recover from if my system crashes because of a mod. Thanks.

  • Important!! Improve the life and performance of the battery.

    Reduce the operating temperature and increase battery life
    The battery in your notebook PC is designed to provide the necessary amount of energy for the processor while maintaining HP high safety standards. As a result, the battery may not charge or may stop providing power to the notebook when the battery temperature exceeds the specified, design safety level.
    If the battery life appears shorter than normal, the battery stops charging before it is 99%-100% full and the battery appears warmer than usual, the battery has most likely reached its designed "no charge" safety state. The battery will no longer charge until the temperature condition is corrected.
    Try one of the following methods to correct the battery temperature:
    When charging the battery, do not use applications that require large amounts of system resources such as graphic or memory intensive applications, heavy and extended hard drive usage.
    Turn off your notebook and remove the battery to allow it to return to a safe operating temperature.
    Make sure the notebook PC is operating on a hard surface. Using the Notebook PC on a bed or sofa may block the vents causing the notebook PC to heat up and shut down.
    By taking these steps, the battery will return to its normal operating temperature range and continue to charge and discharge as designed.
    Calibrating the battery while PC not in use
    Recalibrating the battery requires a cycle of a complete charge and a complete discharge. To recalibrate the battery while using the PC is not is use complete the following steps.
    The recalibration may take 1-5 hours depending on the age of the battery and the configuration of the notebook PC you own. The PC should not be used while you perform the following steps. Completing all the following steps will also calibrate the battery so that the power meter readings are accurate.
    Shut down the notebook PC
    Connect the AC Adapter to the notebook PC and to an electrical socket.
    Charge the Notebook PC until the Battery Charge light is Green. This indicates the battery is completely charged.
    Press and release the Power Button to start the computer.
    Press the F8 key several times when the HP Logo displays.
    When the Windows Advanced Startup Menu displays, select the Startup in Safe Mode option.
    Remove the AC power adapter from the notebook PC.
    Allow the battery to discharge completely until the notebook PC turns off.
    The battery is now calibrated and the battery level reading on the power meter is now accurate.
    If you are not using the notebook regularly then please unplug the AC adapter and shut down the notebook. By following these practices will improve the life and performance of the battery. Here is a quick list of Do's and Don'ts for the care of your Li-On batteries:
    Do's
    When you receive a new Notebook or Tablet PC, leave the battery to fully charge overnight.
    Condition a new battery by using it until it is fully discharged, and then re-charge it fully. Doing this once a month will help to accurately calibrate your battery.
    Always ensure the battery is recharged as soon as possible after it becomes fully discharged. A battery will be permanently damaged if left for an extended length of time in a fully discharged state.
    Remember that a Lithium-Ion battery will slowly deteriorate; a new battery will always perform better than one that is 6-months old.
    Remember that the battery half-life is rated for a certain total number of charge/discharge cycles (see your User Manual or Quick Start Guide for the rating). For example, a battery that is rated for 3 hours and 500 charge/discharge cycles, will still be considered as within specification, even if it only lasts for 1 hour 45 minutes after 500 charge/discharge cycles.
    Heat is the worst enemy of a battery. Allow plenty of air to circulate around the Notebook/Tablet PC, so that the battery is kept as cool as possible when charging and also when in use. If provided, use the integrated 'legs' under the Notebook to raise the notebook and improve air circulation.
    Remove the battery if storing for several months (the battery should be at approximately 50% charge or higher).
    If you use a NoteBus or if charging your Notebooks or Tablet PCs in a confined space, allow for adequate ventilation in order to keep the batteries as cool as possible.
    Don'ts
    Do Not - Expose the battery to excessive heat or cold (i.e. outside the range of 10-35 degrees Centigrade ambient).
    Do Not - Store the battery in a fully charged state (store batteries with about 50% charge).
    Do Not - Allow a nearly flat battery to be unused for more than a month or so. The battery will slowly discharge until it becomes fully discharged and this will permanently damage the battery cells.
    Do Not - Charge your Notebook/Tablet PC inside a carry case - the battery may overheat.
    Do Not - Charge your Notebook/Tablet PC when stacked on top of each other - the battery may overheat.
    Remember: Your battery is slowly degrading all the time, even if it is not used. Keeping your battery as cool as possible will slow down this degradation considerably.
    For more information please visit the following links:
    How to Improve the Performance of the Battery
    http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01297640&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en
    10 Tips to make your Laptop Battery last longer
    http://labnol.blogspot.com/2006/03/10-tips-to-make-your-laptop-battery.html
    Disclaimer: By clicking on the link above, you will be leaving HP.com to visit a web site that is not maintained by HP and where the HP privacy policy does not apply. This link is provided to you for convenience and does not serve as an endorsement by HP of any information or contacts that you may find on this non-HP site.
    ||-Although I am working on behalf of HP, I am speaking for myself and not for HP.-||
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    I hope the above article will help you guys..
    ||-Although I am working on behalf of HP, I am speaking for myself and not for HP.-||
    //Click on Kudos if my reply was helpful and answered your question//
    ||-If my answer solved the problem please mark the topic as the accepted solution-||

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