Difficulty seating atx 24 pin & atx 12v on eclipse

I ran into a bit of a snag while connecting the atx 24 pin and the atx 12v power connectors to my eclipse mobo. They dont seem to want to seat properly. Im using a corsair 750 watt power supply and I cant detect any defects in the male and female parts. Im afraid if I push any harder im gonna crack the mobo. Has anyone else experienced this as well? I had to RMA the board already because of that damn d-led 2 not working and the no posting crap everyone seems to be dealing with. You would think if your throwing down 350 bucks the least MSI could do is check their product before they ship it.

Thanks for the input. Since my mobo's on R.M.A. it makes me feel better knowing other folks have a grasp on this problem. Hopefully When my board comes back it will actually start up instead of just light up. I kinda jumped the gun as far as sentencing my mobo to R.M.A. status. Ive had several videocards from MSI that haven't had a problem so this really shakes my confidence in the company when I spend close to $400 dollars for a board that won't start.
I have faith that MSI will honor its components. I hope they don't prove me wrong.

Similar Messages

P7n Diamon with atx 12v ?

hi there, i hope someone can help me.
I have a P7n Diamond motherboard which have a 8 pin eps 12v slot. I didnt have a problem since i bought a PSU with that cconnector. but my PSU died and i cant find a replecement in my location.
So, is there any chance that my mobo works with the 4 pin Atx 12v conector ? Or the 8 pin is extrictly necesary ?
I have a Quad Core on it.
please help me.

Using all 8 pins is recommended, yet not necessary. A regular 4-pin connector should be just fine if everything is still functional after your PSU broke down.

Does anyone connect the ATX 12V power connector?

Does anyone connect there power connector to the ATX 12V connector? The 12V power connector is used to provide power to the CPU, or is that what the 20-pin connecter is for? The 12V connecter is usually next to the socket and has 4 pins. thx for the help 8)

plug the 4 pin in it should be more stable
update bios as well
http://www.msi.com.tw/program/support/bios/bos/spt_bos_detail.php?UID=355&NAME=MS-6585

Board won't power on IF atx 12v is plugged

I was trying to switch cpu fans. The pc booted and froze during POST. The pc wouldn't turn on afterwards.
MS-6777
The current situation is:
No device connected to the mobo, not even CPU.
I took the mobo out the pc-case to avoid any shortages.
I can manage to turn it on WITHOUT atx 12v. If I plug ATX 12V computer won't turn on, fans move a little bit but stop.
thanks for your time.

for other helpers sake, please use the 'marketing name' of your board instead of the MS-xxxx number to identify your board
in your case, MS-6777 is the 'K7N2GM-L'
Is your problem caused by your PSU?
Clear CMOS Guide
Make sure your heatsink is rated for your CPU, and is seated correctly:
and in order to POST correctly, your mobo needs at least a CPU and one stick of memory...

K8n diamond plus atx 12v plug

im in the middle of a build using said board and i was wondering is it neccesary to use 8 pin atx plug,or can i just use the 4 pins mypsu is an enermax noise taker and ill be using an athlon 64 4000

Hi,
i am using enermax liberty psu 500wat with 8pins plug in, when i first build i was used ocz modtream psu with 4pins all work just fine. the mobo comes with a plastic cover the 4pins so i just use the other 4pins open:1,2,5,6.
you can use either 8pins or 4 pins, but when you use 4pins make sure you plug in pin 1,2,5,6 and you good to go. good luck.
Hien

ATX 12V Power Connector

Good morning everyone,
On my P35 Neo 2 FR the connector has 8 holes with 4 plugged out by a small piece of white plastic. When I assembled the machine I didn't think about it. I used the 4-prong cable to connect.
Does anyone know the use of the other 4 holes on that motherboard?
Have a nice day.

Quote
Does anyone know the use of the other 4 holes on that motherboard?
If your power supply has an 8-Pin connector or an additional 4-Pin connector, you can take off the plastic cover and use all Pins of the mainboard connector.
If your PSU only has one +12V-CPU-4-Pin plug just leave it as it is now. There are adaptors but they are of no use whatsoever. You CPU will get enough power.

Difficulty accessing/removing a pin in places

I have a pin in places that I don't know how it got there or how to get rid of it. I have tried the window/manage my places pulldown, but the location I want to delete isn't there (I didn't create this location, I don't know where it came from). I also tried clicking on the i in the bottom right corner and manually changing the location for each photo, but some of them wouldn't move after that and now I can't access the pictures associated with that pin at all! When I click on this particular pin it turns red and then blue but nothing else happens. This is so frustrating! Any help please?

I am having a similar problem. Somehow a bunch of my photos (with no GPS data in them) got assigned to Mount Rainier.
- Mount Rainier is no longer listed in Manage My Places (I thought I could fix the problem by removing it from that list)
- When I click on the "i" on these photos and then the "X", Mount Rainier is not removed.
- If I click on the "i" on these photos and assign a new place, the photo lists the new place in the "i" dialog and it shows up under both the new place and Mount Rainier. If I then click "i" and "X" on the place name, it reverts to Mount Rainier.
- I updated to the latest iPhoto, but that hasn't helped.
- I tried the "Rescan for Location" menu command, but that didn't help.
- I tried exporting one of the photos and then reimporting it. The reimported photo does not have a place (good), but I lost the original date/time of when the photo was taken (bad).
Any ideas how to clear out the bad place information without losing the other information that I want to keep? I suppose I could include title/keywords when exporting, make a note of the original date/time and then "adjust date and time" after importing, but that's a lot of work for more than a few such photos (I have over 30 in this state).

Difficulty seating new hard drive

I am attempting to upgrade my hard drive to a bigger one. I have already prepared the new drive using Carbon Copy Cloner and an external case. When I try to install the new drive I am having trouble getting it to be seated completely enough that I can replace the ram cover and so that the hard drive can be recognized and used. Are there any tricks for installation?

Make sure you have the new hard drive, correct side up. This has been a common error. You should not have to force the drive to connect. Try flipping it over and pushing gently. And make sure you removed the rails from the old drive and installed on the new one.
Good Luck and let us know what happened.
Adam

12v ATX Power Connector

Ive just modded my new power supply to fit my bespoke case, but the ATX 12v power connector(4pin) has a fault.
when connected it causes nasty noices through the speaker system like its got a break in the wires from the PSU to the connector on the board.
The question is......
I havent got it connect at the mo, the pc is running ok so do i need to use it??????
JAs
K7N2 Delta ILSR
2500XP Barton
512 Twinmos dual channel
Tyan 9600Pro
2x Diamondmax plus9 120GB HDs (sata)
cd-r/dvd combo
2 case fans
neon lite
PS cant take the PSU back its got no case anymore

the 20 pin atx has 5x 5v feeds but only 1x 12v
this is because in the past 5v feed the vga card and the cpu
now modern vga cards lie yours feed of the 12v as does the cpu
now a pin on the atx moules i rated to 6a max giving 72 watts max
many amd cpu pull that on their own
this is why these and other boards have the extra 2x 12v feeds

An ATX P4 power supply and a MSI-6119 motherboard. Does it work?

I am reparing my computer. (Power supply broke down)
I found a cheap ATX 350W P4 power supply.
It is intended for P4 motherboards, and has the same connectors as my old PSU, except one more: the ATX 12V connector (4 pin , 2 yellow 12V and 2 black earth), that you normally have to plug in a 4 PIN connector called JPW1.
On a PII/III board such as the MSI-6119, there is no JPW1.
Apparently the PSU doesn't start up if the ATX12V connector iis not plugged in.
How can I make it work?

Thanks for the manual.
No beep when booting without RAM. No sound at all. power supply does not start.
I did the following:
1. Disconnect PSU from everything - do not plug ATX connector, but short circuit pin 14 (green) and 15 (black) of the 20 pin ATX connector - put in external power cable. The PSU starts humming.
Apparently, when pin 14C is pulled low, the ATX PSU jumpstarts. ( see http://www.duxcw.com/faq/ps/ps4.htm ).
2. disconnect all drives ( HDD, CD, FDD ) (power supply and ATA66 cable) - plug 20 pin ATX connector in motherboard - connect power cable - no boot;
CONCLUSION 1: Pin 14 is not pulled low by the circuits of the motherboard, which it should. why?
3. connect all drives ( HDD, CD, FDD ) with power supply cables to PSU and ATA66 cable to motherboard.
PSU not connected to motherbord
short circuit green and 15 of the 20 pin ATX connector.
Power supply starts, HDD and CD however not ( FDD starts ).
CONCLUSION 2: connection of ATA66 cable disables power supply to HDD and CD/RW
4. connect only power supply cables to HDD/CD /FDD and not the ATA66 cables.
No connection of PSU with mothetboard
short circuit green and black of the ATX connector. ( So Motherboard not implicated )
- Power supply starts, HDD / CD and FDD start also.
CONCLUSION 3: my HDD etc and internal power cables are OK.
And I am no step further.

P55-GD85 CMOS Pin #s and CPU Phase LEDs

Howdy, folks.
Looking for some information that isn't in the manual.
I have a brand new P55-GD85 that won't POST. Could be a lot of reasons, but I wanted to check that the CMOS jumper on JBAT1 was properly across pins 1/2. The problem: The manual doesn't orient the jumper on the board, and the board doesn't label the pins. Does anyone know whether pin 1 is closest to the battery or furthest from it?
The jumper came from the factory sitting on the pin closest to the battery (plus the middle pin). I assumed that the jumper was properly set at the factory, so I powered down the board and moved the jumper to the other pair for 30 seconds or so, and then re-seated the jumper where it started. Before I did this, powering up the board turned on all of the blue LEDs on the CPU Phase panel, plus LED #1 on the CPU_VTT Phase panel. Now, none of the LEDs lights at all (except CPU_VTT #2 blinks once if I use the reset button on the board). The problem: the manual does explain which LEDs are supposed to light up on boot, normally. Does anyone know? Was all of the LEDs lit a good thing or a bad thing? Now that none light up, is that good or bad? Is there any documentation for this?
The board came with a plastic cover across one of the two, 12 volt 4-pin ATX JPWR2 CPU power plugs (the one closest to the center of the board). Nothing in the manual explains why or whether to use one, two or none of the JPWR2 plugs. Anyone know why one had a plastic cover? I plugged in both halves of the plug, anyway.
Here are the specs on the machine. No overclocking, no tinkering, nothing changed on the board, and no peripherals. I haven't even hooked up the USB headers. Just the front panel power, which I unhooked once I had these problems.
* P55-GF85 w/ i570-LGA1156 (on the supported CPU list)
* 2x2GB G-Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL (correctly seated in DIMMs #1 and #3 -- testing with 1 stick at a time = no change. This memory suggested by NewEgg and reported to work with this board)
* Rocketfish 500W RF-500WPS2, which is not a great PSU long term, but at the moment the board isn't running a single HD or peripheral except some fans. The PSU has 2 12v * 18A rails, and 18A on each of the +5 and +3.3. The manual says "at least 18W" so this may be a problem.
* An old GeForce 6500 card, which may not work, although it gets power.
Thanks, in advance, for any insight.

Quote
Could be a lot of reasons, but I wanted to check that the CMOS jumper on JBAT1 was properly across pins 1/2. The problem: The manual doesn't orient the jumper on the board, and the board doesn't label the pins. Does anyone know whether pin 1 is closest to the battery or furthest from it?
Google for pictures of the board (large/high-resolutioin images) to compare jumper positions.
The "keep data" position is usually just a parking position that does not much else electrically. So, taking the jumper off the pin header altogether would also make sure that it is not wrongly placed.
Remove the board from the case and test it on an non-conducting surface in barebone configuration (just CPU, one stick of RAM, video card & power connectors [24-pin ATX, 12V CPU power, PCI-Express power connector]). Reseat CPU and heatsink as well and check for broken or bent CPU socket pins while you do that.
Quote
* Rocketfish 500W RF-500WPS2, which is not a great PSU long term, but at the moment the board isn't running a single HD or peripheral except some fans. The PSU has 2 12v * 18A rails, and 18A on each of the +5 and +3.3. The manual says "at least 18W" so this may be a problem.
* An old GeForce 6500 card, which may not work, although it gets power.
Test a video card that works for sure and also test a different PSU if nothing changes,

K7T Turbo2 12v power connector

I connected the 4 pin (jpw1) 12v power connector on my mobo to my 250 watt PS and the video dropped out. If I disconnect the 4 pin connector, it works. Should this be connected? If not, why is it there?

That connector is used to supply extra power to the cpu. If the system works fine without it being connected, no need to connect it IMHO.

IPhone 1.1.1 update barfs on SIM PIN.

I have a completely unmodified iPhone which I updated to 1.1.1 this weekend. While the phone is unmodified, I do have a SIM PIN set for security reasons. After starting the update process, I left to do other things. When I came back, iTunes was displaying an error about updating the phone, and the phone screen was off, and was unresponsive to any button presses. I disconnected the iPhone, and it immediately went into recovery mode with the yellow triangle. I reconnected the phone and selected restore. Once the restore process began, there was an alert on the screen about the locked SIM, but the UI was unresponsive and I had no way to unlock the SIM. Once the restore was completed, I reached the activate screen, and was finally able to unlock the SIM. While I now have 1.1.1 on my phone, I lost all of my WiFi passwords, YouTube bookmarks, and any other data that does not get backed up or survives a restore. I assume I would not have had this difficulty if my SIM PIN was not enabled. iTunes should be able to detect a SIM with an active PIN and disallow upgrade until the SIM PIN is turned off.

I know it doesn't help, but i have SIM PIN enabled too, and my iPhone updated last week without problems - it restarted near the beginning of the process but didn't require the unlock PIN, presumably because the SIM wasn't accessed, and then restarted again at the end of the process, asking for the PIN. When I inputted it, the phone went immediately back into service.
Whatever your issue is caused by, it's not the SIM PIN responsible.
I would contact Apple to describe the symptom and see what they say.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

New build will not POST, powers on for 1-3 secs and then powers off

Specs:
MSI Big Bang-XPower LGA 1366 X58
i7-930 2.8GHz
Cooler master Intel Core i7 compatible V8 RR-UV8-XBU1-GP
Corsair Dominator-GT 12GB (6 x 2GB) DDR3 1866
XION Power Real XON-1100P14HE 1100W ATX 12v v2.2 / EPS 12V v2.91 / SSI 2.92 SLI Ready Power Supply
Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB Sata III
x2 EVGA 01G-P3-1465-AR GeFroce GTX 465 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5
(If I'm missing anything necessary please let me know, I think I got all of the important components.)
I put the entire build together and the first time I powered the system on it turned on and ran fine but had no POST (was powered on for about twenty seconds, no trouble). I was able to power it off holding the power button for 3 seconds. On a second and any subsequent tries to power the machine on it would run for 1-3 seconds and then immediately power off. I've combed the wiring several times for errors in putting it together but am confidant that is not the problem - from what I've read as long as the 8-pin connector (#2, not #3) and 24-pin connector are on I should at least be able to have continous power. Both of these are plugged in, the 8-pin using two four-pin connections. The #3 8-pin power connectors are not connected.
I've also tried using a separate power supply. I did *not* remove any components when I swapped power supplies, however I did unplug everything. I then plugged in only the 8-pin and 24-pin power connections and received the same problem.
When I get home I'm going to try remove everything and try the board+PSU+processor+1 stick of ram at a time on my tabletop, and I'll also try this configuration with the second power supply.
I was just wondering if there were any other possible solutions or cuplrits that I may have missed? I know resetting the CMOS is a common suggestion but I'm unsure how to do this - I'm a novice builder at best. If all of the above fails I'll try reseating the processor and reapplying the thermal paste/fan, but I'm relatively confidant I did both of those things correctly (I used a smal X of thermal paste on the processor, and I lined it up with the arrow pointing to the arrow on the mobo. If I end up reseating the processor I'll try the grain of rice method for the paste.)
All components are new fresh out of the box. Error code before the system shuts up is 68.
Thanks for any help!

Table top tests continued:
Reseated the processor. Made sure to check very closely that it was seated correctly the first time before pulling off and that there were no bent pins when I took it off - neither was the case. Upon power up I had the same problem.
I also had a friend bring in some different ram to test - Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600. I know for sure I've seen this ram used successfully with this board. It demonstrates the same problem, after power up it turns off about 1-2 seconds later. When the ram is moved to the non-primary (blue slots) I get 3 post beeps.
So in summary - I've tried two separate power supplies (one that was new, another that is known to work in my old machine) two separate rams and reseating the processor as well as checking for bent pins. None of them resolved the problem.
Is there anything else I should try or does this conclude in a bad mobo?
If you need any additional specs on the stuff I've tested let me know. Thanks again for the help! Its much appreciated.

Difficulty seating atx 24 pin & atx 12v on eclipse

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