Drives stopped mounting with FW800, but FW400 is OK. Worked OK before, but won't now. Tried new cables, zapping pram, Disk Repair Utility. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Drives stopped mounting with FW800, but FW400 is OK. Worked OK before, but won't now. Tried new cables, zapping pram, Disk Repair Utility. Any suggestions? Thanks.
If your external drive does not have an independent power supply, you may wish to consider a couple of lower-cost options before tossing the drive. Bus-powered drives have no external power source and must get all their power from the computer. They can exceed the computer's USB energy budget.
Cheapest option:
1 Meter USB 2.0 A to 5 Pin Mini B Cable - Auxiliary USB "Y" Power Design for external hard drives.
This gets power from two of the computers USB porst sna can provide enough power to wake up an under-performaing bus-powered drive.
If you don't have enough ports to use this, try the next cheapest option:
Newer Technology 7 Port Hi-Speed USB 2.0 Hub with Power Adapter for Mac & PC
Such a hub has a an independent power supply to make up for wahat the comptuer fails to provide.
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My apple ipod Nano stops playing shortly after plugging in the correct headset. I've tried enabling and disabling crossfade in settings. Any suggestions?
Make sure your headphones are plugged ALL the way in, meaning the white part of the headphones is flush with the Nano and you cannot see any silver from the plug still showing.
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External drive not mounting with FW800
Hi,
I have a strange problem... I am trying to connect a SATA 3.5" drive (Seagate Barracuda) in a Vantec NexStar enclosure to a MacBook Pro (17"), and the drive will mount (either on the desktop or in Disk Utility) when connected with FW400 and with USB 2.0, but not with FW800 (the enclosure has all three). It will not mount on another 15" MacBook Pro either.
The strange thing is that I CAN connect the drive to my Mac Pro through FW800 with no problems, and also to both a 15" and a 17" PowerBook G4!
Does this sound like a driver problem? Like maybe the driver for the Vantec enclosure is not compatible with the MacBook Pro?
If anyone has a clue what the problem might be, let me know!
Thanks,
NayeliThe problem turned out to be the FW 800 cables that came with the Vantec enclosure. For some reason they work with my Mac Pro, but not with either the 17" MacBook Pro or the 15" MacBook Pros I tried.
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I can't access any of my files, photos, anything form my external hard drive... It worked before now when I plug it in the light comes on, but it doesn't even show up as an external drive, so I can't access anything, I'm worried I have lost everything...
Huge mistake was only having ONE copy of your data OFF computer,
most people do it, and its just horrible and the typical reason for serious data loss.
Likely you have a very common failure (extremely common actually) called SATA bridge card failure, which would be "good" news,
read about same here:
Your dead external hard drive is likely fine! Great hope for your 'faulty' external HD
Never again let yourself have LESS than 2 copies of your important data off-computer, ever
1. verify the external HD doesnt show up on another Mac
if same, you have about a 8 in 10 chance its SATA card failure.......... easy to fix.
The great news at the end of the tunnel of an apparently failed or failing external hard drive.
When checked on another computer, and with no need for spending money on data extraction expertise or software, the very likely case is that your external USB or thunderbolt HD is in fact fine, and merely the card interface, or SATA bridge card has failed or is failing. Keeping a HD dock around handy, or cheaper still a $20 hard drive enclosure or a SATA to USB connector can be a real life saver in getting your drive back to use, when the drive itself is fine, and merely its interface card has gone bad.
The SATA bridge card inside a USB external HD has a very high failure rate in general
Typical SATA bridge cards as seen inside a 3.5" external HD with power input (#1), and 2.5" SATA cards (#3, #4, #5)
What are the realistic odds your HD is perfectly fine?
There are no hard facts whatsoever, especially since so many people discard their assumed “dead/faulty” hard drives, but a good educated conclusion from years of examining and seeing this issue is that for hard drives made since 2010, and not dropped or generally abused, is that a minimum of 50% conservatively are perfectly fine! I personally estimate however that it likely approaches 60%+.
Considering how many external hard drives ‘fail’ (rather the SATA bridge more than half the time) each day, that is a very high number of perfectly fine HD that are tossed!
This is especially common with 3.5” desktop HD that are connected 24/7 with power and see a lot of data transfer. People wrongly conclude that “X” mfg. just made a defective drive, when in fact their 3.5” drives inside the plastic enclosure is 100% fine. I have personally seen well over 200 of these dead SATA cards and additionally seen 3 fail within a one hour span of doing a large data copies.
One of the very reason pros use bare HD as inserted into HD docks is not just the saving of space and the need for endless USB cables, but the elimination of the need for this high failure-rate part.
While the shapes and sizes vary somewhat on SATA bridge cards, they all serve the same purpose and have likewise failure rates
What exactly is the SATA bridge card in your external HD?
In the middle to late of 2009, most all external hard drives both in 2.5” and 3.5” reached the shelves in SATA III. These small SATA cards or "bridges" are used to translate between the hard drives’ interfaces and the enclosures' external ports (USB, Thunderbolt, Firewire). Additionally these small bridges not only transfer power but also of course the data. Unfortunately these SATA bridge cards have a very high failure rate as they are burdened with shuffle power and data.
Literally these little unreliable and fragile cards are the power conduits and the nervous system for all external HD data transfer.
SATA card as found inside a typical USB external hard drive
The assumption that the hard drive is bad when its not!
Countless 1000s of good external hard drives are thrown away each year because the owner thought the HD was bad when it fact it was the SATA bridge card which had failed. This card is removed in a matter of mere second once an external USB HD is cracked open from its plastic casing to reveal the bare HD and the attached SATA card which attaches between the HD and the USB cable.
To complicate this problem, even many computer professionals do not know that there is a very easy solution to the “failing or dead HD” issue since the hard drive itself is very likely just fine. Its astonishing that so many highly educated computer repair persons are unaware of this high-failure part, but this is mostly due to the fact that they do not juggle 100s of hard drives and know that of the iceberg that is a “external hard drive failure”, the mostly unseen majority are not a HD failure at all, but a bridge card failure.
To add to this great misunderstanding is the fact that people assume that "likewise symptoms seen on an external HD are the same as seen on an internal HD, therefore also the external HD must be bad". This is a compositional fallacy of logic. Since internal HD do not have a SATA bridge interface, to conclude similar symptoms "indicate the same failure" is misplaced and incorrect.
This is all not to say that HD do not fail, they do indeed, and I have seen many 100s of dead and failing hard drives. Hard drives even under ideal conditions have a life expectancy of around 4-8 years due to ferromagnetic depolarization from entropy. But of the mountain of symptoms that are seen as “hard drive failures” in comments, posts, and hearsay, half or more of these are not a HD failure at all.
Once your rescued hard drive is removed from the bad SATA card
You have several options, but the purchase of a $20 HD enclosure is one option, another is having a HD dock, however this eliminates the former portability in a 2.5" small HD.
Remember that 3.5” HD require power, which means you need either a HD dock, or a powered SATA card kit as seen at top left in the picture below. 2.5” HD get power from the USB port itself.
Just remember that the serious downside to the low cost external HD enclosures is THEY TOO contain these SATA cards, and what is worse the cheap ones will fail, often, much quicker than the original factory one did! In which case it is recommended you buy a quality HD USB enclosure
Rescue tools to use with your extracted HD for data recovery -
Same question as posted in the title. Thanks in advance!
After uninstalling MacKeeper, if you still have the problem, proceed as below.
First, back up all data immediately, as your boot drive might be failing.
There are a few other possible causes of generalized slow performance that you can rule out easily.
Reset the System Management Controller.
If you have many image or video files on the Desktop with preview icons, move them to another folder.
If applicable, uncheck all boxes in the iCloud preference pane.
Disconnect all non-essential wired peripherals and remove aftermarket expansion cards, if any.
Check your keychains in Keychain Access for excessively duplicated items.
Otherwise, take the steps below when you notice the slowdown.
Step 1
Launch the Activity Monitor application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Activity Monitor in the icon grid.
Select the CPU tab of the Activity Monitor window.
Select All Processes from the menu in the toolbar, if not already selected.
Click the heading of the % CPU column in the process table to sort the entries by CPU usage. You may have to click it twice to get the highest value at the top. What is it, and what is the process? Also post the values for % User, % System, and % Idle at the bottom of the window.
Select the System Memory tab. What values are shown in the bottom part of the window for Page outs and Swap used?
Next, select the Disk Activity tab. Post the approximate values shown for Reads in/sec and Writes out/sec (not Reads in and Writes out.)
Step 2
If you have more than one user account, you must be logged in as an administrator to carry out this step.
Launch the Console application in the same way you launched Activity Monitor. Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Select the 50 or so most recent entries in the log. Copy them to the Clipboard (command-C). Paste into a reply to this message (command-V). You're looking for entries at the end of the log, not at the beginning.
When posting a log extract, be selective. Don't post more than is requested.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some personal information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting. That should be easy to do if your extract is not too long. -
I have recently purchased the new iPad. I can send and receive e-mails (iCloud) without a problem but the draft function does not seem to be working. Specifically, when you go back to work on a draft e-mail, it has not saved the changes you made previously. Kinda annoying! I think it must be a problem specific to my iPad as my iPhone does not have this problem. All suggestions as to solutions very welcome.
Try a Reset [Hold the Home and Sleep/Wake buttons down together for 10 seconds or so (until the Apple logo appears) and then release. When the screen goes blank power On again in the normal way.] It is absolutely/appsolutely safe!
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I was able to transfer my music from my old PC to my new one and connect to the newest version of ITunes but my playlists from my old PC do not appear on my new PC when I open ITunes. Any suggestions?
Copy everything from your old computer, or your backup copy of your old computer, to your new one.
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External FW 400 G-Drive stopped mounting
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BoeIf the drive is connected via USB and is "bus-powered" (does not have its own power brick), the USB port on the computer may not be providing enough power. That can cause the drive to be inaccessible even though its electronics show up in DU.
If you don't wish to replace the drive with one that brings its own power brick to the party, you can usually overcome this by getting an inexpensive powered hub, again, one with its own power supply.
On the surface, the above recommendation seems ludicrous in that a bus-powered device that once worked stopped working later. However, some electronic devices can demand more power as they age. -
For unknown reasons iTunes will no longer open. I have an HP laptop running windows 7 with Kaspersky protection. It worked fine before but now won't open. I tried downloading the most recent up-date and it will still not open. Any suggestions?
thrillhousecody
Thanks for the reply with additional information.
Recent history for Premiere Elements points to the program having problems when more than 1 video card/graphics card is
being used by the computer on which Premiere Elements is running. This observation may seem contra indicated by the fact
that you say that the program did work well about 2 years ago in the same setup. But other factors may have set in with regard
to drivers, drivers versions, and driver conflicts. But this factor, does need to be ruled in or out.
Can you disable one or the other card to determine the impact of this on your problem?
But, of prime concern with regard to video card/graphics card is the use of a NVIDIA GeForce card with Premiere Elements 10.
Even if your NVIDIA GeForce were the only card, Premiere Elements 10 will not work properly unless the NVIDIA GeForce driver
version is rolled back to about May 2013. This may be one of the major factors here.
a. Device Manager/Display Adapters and find out Driver Version and Driver Date
b. Read the background information for the Premiere Elements 10/NVIDIA GeForce issue
ATR Premiere Elements Troubleshooting: PE10: NVIDIA Video Card Driver Roll Back
Also see the Announcement at the top of this forum regarding the matter - also with full details of the situation and how to fix with the
driver version roll back.
Please review and consider and then we can decide what next.
Thanks.
ATR
Add On...This NVIDIA GeForce situation is specific for Premiere Elements 10. You should not expect to see the problem for
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The Game Center used to work with my Apple ID before I updated to iOS 7.4, I used to play multiple player with EA Real Racing 3 game but it doesn't work at all and every time I tried to go to the Game Center it's just blank, even to the settings nothing!
Try:
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Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Go to Settings>Game Center and sign out and sign back in
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device. -
the email address assoc. with my iTunes account is no longer valid. can't access it. need to change it in iTunes but can't access account. even my birthdate is incorrect in iTunes...so can't log in. any suggestions on how to log in and edit info???
There is nothing that you can do to get rid of the balance on your own. Contact iTunes Store Support and seek their assistance. I believe that they can reset your balance for you.
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I bought walking dead the game multi pack but I wasn't able to play with it. I tried to remove and reinstall it but things get worst because the paid app was lost and what's left was the free version. Any suggestion how to recover it?
How to Get a Refund from the App Store
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Hi I am having trouble with iMessage on the mac book pro, it doesnt sync with the ipad and iPhone, both the ipad and iPhone do but not on the mac book pro , has anyone any suggestions, thanks in advance
First, make sure that all your devices are using the same Apple ID in iMessages including your Mac. Second, your messages that you've already started on your devices will not show up on your Mac - only ones that you start from now on will show up. Third, if you're still not syncing accross all devices, make sure you read the directions on the first page of this thread. It should work after performing those steps. Good luck!
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Hi i have a ipad 4th gen i updated to ios 8.0 after it installed it kept turning itself off. A few weeks later i installed a update for ios it turned itself off and wont turn back on. I have tried plugging it into itunes to restore it recognizes the ipad when i press recover it just freezes and wont restore or recover its just a blank screen there is no power light or anything just blank please help with any suggestions, Thanks Rick.
Try:
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- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
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Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar -
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